After a short delay (1 hour) we were off and only 95 minutes later the plane landed in Prague. A quick exit from the plane and straight through immigration to arrive at the baggage belts just in time to see our luggage coming up (barely 10 mins from the plane touching the runway). Straight through customs and into a waiting taxi through the outskirts or Prague (at somewhere approaching 80 mph!) to the hotel. In less than 45 minutes I had got from the air to the hotel!.
It was already 11pm so we decided on a quiet evening and went to the bar at the end of the street where we drunk ourselves silly (The Czech's operate a brilliant system where they keep a tab on your table of how many beers you have had and charge at the end). After about 4 pints each we asked for the bill that came to about £4 (you couldn't get one round of drinks for that in even the cheapest student bar in the UK) and promptly tipped the bar man about £6 as we still weren't used to the currency, though it would explain why we got such good service the next time we went in...
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Firstly we had a look at the guide books and then we walked into town.
First stop was the old town square and with it the world famous astronomical clock.
Next stop was the powder tower just slightly back from the old town square. This was the first of many spiral staircases to the top of towers. From here you can get commanding views of the centre or Prague and out to the outskirts of the city.
After a spot of lunch in a cafe near the old town square we continued to wander around the city before heading back to the hotel for a rest.
That evening we wandered back into town for a quick bite to eat before heading back to the hotel
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The Charles Bridge quite rightly features in almost all holiday brochures, guide books and literature about Prague. From it you climb the castle hill to reach the complex on the top with its breathtaking views of the city and its spectacular architecture, The cathedral, Palaces and towers.
Once again another spiral staircase challenges us but we defeated it. The tower of the cathedral has the longest set of stairs in the city over 400 with tourists in large numbers going up and down all the time it's the scariest of the climbs but the view from the top is worth it!.
After the cathedral and the tower we looked at some of the other sites in the castle complex but there was no way that we were going to get them all done in one day so it is good that the tickets are valid for 3!.
By the time we had left the castle it was early evening so we wandered back into town over a different bridge so that we could see the Charles bridge from the side.
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This time to see the Royal Palaces and to stroll in the grounds.
The size of the castle is such that you can not hope to do it in less that 2 days really.
After the castle we wandered back into town for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel.
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At the top not only stunning views but also the mirror maze and a scaled down version of the Eiffel Tower. From here a walk leads down through the park land to the bottom of the hill.
Next stop was the Zizka Monument on the top of Zizkov hill. At one time used as the tomb for communist leaders now left empty but a spectacular structure. Again spectacular views of the city can be seen.
Then it was a walk back across the city to the hill that the Metronome now stands on. This was previously where a bust of Stalin had sat staring down at the people of Prague but since the collapse of communism has been replaced with something more tasteful. Again spectacular views of the city make the climb up the side of the hill worth it!
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Originally planed to block the corrupting influences of capitalist television from West Germany reaching the country its building was only completed after the fall of communism.
It does though offer some of the best views of the city from the highest vantage point with the advantage that it's lifts rather than stairs that take you to the top.
After the TV Tower it was time to wander back into town and a wander round the Jewish quarter of the city
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In the town a small church was such a popular place to be interred when you died that after a while the number of bodies started to get out of hand. In the end 40,000 sets of remains were filling up the chapel and it was decided that something should be done.
This something turned out to be making decorations out of the bones. From piles of skulls to a coat of alms and even a chandelier made out of at least one of every bone in the human body!
After that we had a quick look around the city of Kutna Hora before heading back to the train station and the train back to Prague
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After catching the airport bus into town I visited the tourist information centre and booked myself onto a musical pub crawl for the evening. I then set about heading out of town to my hotel.
In the process I was passed by about 20 buses that I only later discovered stopped right outside the hotel and would have saved me an absolute soaking!
That evening I caught the bus back into town and went the the Temple Bar area to join the pub crawl.
A really fun evening involving several pints of Guinness 3 pubs and lots of music.
By the time I came out of the last pub the rain had stopped a warm breeze was blowing and the weather looked fare for the rest of the trip.
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1. They give you an idea where places are in the city and if they are hop on hop off let you get round the city easily
2. They always give you an easy to read map with all the key tourist points marked out
3. They always have money off vouchers for the attractions you want to visit!
First stop of the morning Trinity College and the Dublin Experience a 45 minute Audio/Visual presentation of the history of the island of Ireland. Following this a quick walk across the quad to the long library and the Book of Kells.
After this it's back onto the bus and off to a lunchtime visit to the Old Jameson's distillery. An interesting tour of how Irish whisky is produced topped off with a tasting session.
quick walk back across the Liffy and up the hill to the Guinness factory for a look round their museum and a free pint of Guinness. All in all a very alcoholic afternoon.
Back to the hotel to quickly recover (and drop off the souvenirs) before setting out again for the Dublin Ghost bus tour. An interesting and informative bus tour of the most haunted spots in Dublin
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A look round the Dublinia Exhibition followed by a look around St Patrick's Cathedral. After that just time for a quick look round the museum of Irish music and the wax works and then back onto the airport bus for the flight home and a well deserved rest (and admitting to my boss who had only just come of holiday that I had handed my notice in 2 weeks earlier!!)
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I am proud to have officially opened the summer season in Prague and here I was back for the very last week before the clocks went back and the winter season officially started.
This time even the flight wasn't as delayed and once again I found myself in the bar at the end of the road the hotel was in with the same barman on duty!
The only difference this time was different traveling companions
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Then in the evening off on a ghost tour of Prague
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The small town on the top of a hill just outside the city centre has the Cemetery for all the famous artists and musicians who have lived and died in the city.
Then back to the centre for the final tower the one housing the astronomical clock. Though some of the fun of climbing hundreds of steps has been removed because they stuck a lift in!. Spectacular views over the old town square though!.
Down then into the cellars of the town hall which are cavernous in the extreme before finally emerging back into the old town square for another coffee.
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I caught the airport bus into town and arrived just gone midday with more that an hour before I could check in I caught one of the open toped buses to see the city and foolishly decided to sit upstairs (in fact all the times I used open top buses I sit upstairs no matter what the weather - I think I need help!)
Stunning views of the centre of Edinburgh, the castle, the royal mile and the palace of Hollyrood. By the time the tour was complete I could check in at the hotel.
I then wandered around the city looking at some of the sights and then visited the Scottish Whisky Heritage centre. An interesting tour of how Scotch whisky is distilled (as opposed to Irish whisky - see Dublin you're probably thinking I have an alcohol problem by now) which starts with a small tasting session and finished with a slightly larger tasting session and the discovery of what is my Water of Life - Highland Park whisky.
Back to the hotel to freshen up and then back to the castle to go on the Adam Lyle (Deceased) Ghost tour (with Jumpaoooters). A fun and irreverent tour of the old town with a few grisly ghost stories checked in for good measure.
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The castle itself is quite breathtaking and amazingly still partly in use.
After spending a couple of hours wandering around the castle I left and started to walk down the royal mile about 50 yards to the Camera Obscurer for a more novel tour or Edinburgh and a museum of optical illusion.
Then a little further down to the main church in Edinburgh for a quick look around.
After that back to the hotel to drop off the souvenirs and then back out.
After a quick climb up the Sir Walter Scott Monument for a breathtaking view of Edinburgh and a quick go on the Ferris wheel that had been erected next to it in time for Christmas it was time to wander back up to the castle to go on the Mercat tour of the ghosts of Edinburgh which ended up in the vaults beneath the south bridge of Edinburgh.
The vaults are creepy and when you have had someone telling you ghost stories for the previous hour it doesn't take much to make you feel freaked out!
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A quick train ride to North Queensferry takes you over the bridge and then a quick wander down from the station to the sealife centre and you can see the bridge up close.
After that train back into Edinburgh and time to visit the Edinburgh dungeon a wax work chamber of horrors part of a chain that also have museums in London and York.
Then up towards the royal mile and to the dynamic earth exhibition an interesting and well presented tour of the creation and shaping of the planet.
After that there was just time to pick up my luggage before heading back to the airport and the plane home.
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The baths themselves are impressive and the Abbey is a very light and impressive building
However there is a problem to Bath. There is a lot to see that it outside and when it is raining permanently for the weekend it does reduce what there is to do.
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Then in a break in the showers I took my chances to look at the royal circus and royal crescent two spectacular Georgian terraces.
Just after I had finished photographing the crescent the skies decided to open again and this time did not stop
The only option is to try some of the bus tours of Bath. They all have slightly different routes, different commentaries at least a covered downstairs and last about an hour each so you can fill up quite a lot of time going round the city in the dry!
I am sure that Bath itself is a lovely city but as I had had such a bad start to the holiday combined with the weather I didn't enjoy my trip as much as I could have.
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5 minutes before boarding was supposed to start wandered to the gate waited a few minutes and then boarded. So far so good. It was about this time in an office a few miles away that the backup air traffic control computer decided it would be a good time to crash!!
After an hour sitting on the tarmac we finally started to roll to then sit in a plane jam and take another 45 minutes before we finally rolled down the runway. On the positive side though, BA kept apologizing for the delay and had an extra round of drinks!.
The plane finally arrived in Budapest about 75 minutes late but it was quick through immigration and shortly afterwards we were in an airport minibus on the way to the hotel.
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However it's physical geography makes it a spectacular city. Running through the middle is the Danube to one side the flat levels of Pest to the other side the Buda hills rising dramatically up.
So of course when your in a new city on a hot day what better to do then climb up to the top of the hill with the castle on it and then when you have finished descend that hill and climb the other hill with the liberty monument on the top of it!
It's amazing how much of a city you can see without actually paying to go into anything. By the time we had finished a late dinner the last bus and metro had gone so it was a 4 mile walk back to the hotel.
Thankfully the hotel was in Pest so at least the walk was on the flat
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The card (approx. £15) gives 3 days of unlimited travel on the buses, metro, trams trolley buses and cog wheel railway (see Monday), free entry to some 60 museums plus discounts to others.
In this way on one day we made the card pay for itself by visiting as many museums in the castle area as possible including the museum of modern art and the national museum.
This was then followed in the evening by one of the more bizarre meal. We had come all the way from the UK to Budapest to have.... An Indian! to be precise a meal at Govinda a Hare Krishna vegetarian restaurant. No menu you all get the same meal but the price is amazing
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Fronted by hero's square (now the Hungarian skateboarding capital) the park is a large open space with several museums and metro stations in it.
The zoo itself is interesting if only in seeing what zoo's in the UK were like 30 odd years ago. If your concerned about animal rights then perhaps this is not the best place to go!
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One of the strangest is the Cog Wheel railway which runs up the side of the Buda Hills. At the top you can either admire the views or travel on the Children's railway.
The railway was built by the communist equivalent of the scouts and was and still is run almost exclusively by children (only the train drivers are adults).
The journey through the Buda hills takes about an hour and you can see some of the spectacular Hungarian countryside.
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Instead of melting them down or sending them for scrap instead they decided to place them in a park just on the outskirts of the city.
The park itself is most bizarre almost in the middle of nowhere is this large patch of land with over 30 monuments sitting there.
On a misty or overcast evening it would probably creep most people out but as a pure kitsch tourist site it is well worth a visit.
After that we went back into town and went to the top of St Stephen's Basilica for stunning views of Pest.
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In the end I need not have been as everything went perfectly. It started well and got better. Midland main line, the rail operator between London and Nottingham, have invented a new type of ticket a First Class Apex. It was about £5 more expensive than a standard class ticket but upgraded me to first class luxury.
As soon as I had boarded and before the train had even left I had already been served one cup of complementary tea (in china cups!) this was followed by several top-ups, free snack and a glass of a particularly pleasant white wine (all free!).
In addition to all that the first class seats are particularly comfortable so that by the time I arrived in Nottingham it was a strain to pull myself away from the seat (I would happily have had another couple of glasses of wine and spent the night asleep in the seat).
the hotel was about 45 meters from the station!
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Castle is probably not the best word to use to describe it as it is more a mansion house, the original castle having been leveled after the civil war.
With a large museum, grounds that give a spectacular view of the city and surrounding area (on a good day you can see 4 counties) an expansive art gallery (at the time showing an Andy Warhol Exhibition) and tours of the caves passages under the castle it can happily fill up several hours.
After I had finished the castle I decided to go and visit the impressive building of Southwall Minster in the small town of Southwall about 12 miles from Nottingham but linked with a regular and reliable bus service.
The Minster is quite frankly spectacular. After having a wander round the Minster and the town it was back on the bus to Nottingham.
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The first was the galleries of justice. This interesting and enjoyable museum is arranged into 2 areas. The first part of the exhibition in the old police station looks at crime, detection and arrest. The second part of the exhibition based in the old magistrates court looks at trial, justice and punishment.
Acting out the scenes with participation from the visitors you get a real feel of what it is like to be arrested, tried and jailed in various time periods. Well worth a visit.
After that I looked around the nearby parish church for Nottingham. A large traditional looking church with large windows and a peaceful relaxing feel.
In the late afternoon I strolled over to the Robin Hood experience a dark ride/exhibition on Nottingham's most famous son. I'm sure that it must be good for young children but I found it boring and not engaging.
In the late afternoon I strolled over to the Robin Hood experience a dark ride/exhibition on Nottingham's most famous son. I'm sure that it must be good for young children but I found it boring and not engaging.
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In the end there were several things I didn't get to see as I ran out of time. However the Windmill just outside the city is interesting in so much as being able to view the insides of a working windmill whilst it is in action.
The Angel Row gallery has a collection of modern art that may not be to everybody's taste but is worth a visit and finally I visited the caves of Nottingham.
Nottingham is built on sandstone and as such has had caves dug out underneath it from almost the first day humans occupied the area. More bizarrely the caves are entered from inside the shopping centre!
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There is a lot to see in Hay in the way of bookshops but if you're not into books then it's perhaps not the best place in the world.
However there are lots of other sights in the surrounding areas including lots of castles and forts.
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Still the sites are worth it from the top the stunning cathedral that has been on the site since the 11th century and the castle.
After having a wander around I wandered back to the hotel (mercifully down hill) and then realized that the ghost walk I was going on left from the top!!!
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First site of the day was looking at Lincoln from the Guide Friday bus, views of the city, get your bearings and discount vouchers to a number of sites.
After returning to the cathedral I went on one of the daily tours of the roof of the cathedral.
Not for the faint hearted clambering up the spiral staircases into the original oak beamed roof cavities of the cathedral before stepping out onto the roof (thankfully just after a hefty shower rather than during) for views of the surrounding area that are unrivaled by any other.
Then a wander across the square to the castle to look around the remains of the castle, the towers and the Magna Carta exhibition.
just in time back onto the Guide Friday bus as one of the heaviest thunder storms decides to deposit itself on the city.
After another whip round the city there is enough time (and some sun) to look round the remains of the Medieval Bishops Palace before retiring for food and bed
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In addition to that I discovered the bus service that drives you up the side of the hill rather than having to walk up!!.
At the top of the hill behind the castle is the lawns visitors centre, the former mental hospital of the city, is now a collection of museums, a glasshouse to the memory of one of the cities most famous sons Sir Joseph Banks. He sailed with Captain Cook to Australia as a botanist and discovered and named many of the plants he found there.
When he came back to the UK he help in the founding of Kew Gardens and Kew themselves donated many of the species for the glasshouse.
After the Lawns visitor centre onto the museum of Lincolnshire life. Set in an old army barracks this museum looks at life in Lincolnshire in the 19th century and then has a museum dedicated to the army regiment who were based there before they were merged with another regiment and left. The final part of the museum is dedicated to transport of all types including a small display to one of Lincoln's most important transport inventions the Tank. On certain Sundays (including the day I visited) many of the steam machines are put through their paces.
After the museum of Lincolnshire life I moved onto the Usher gallery a very odd museum that is mostly made up of the items bequested to the city by James Usher on his death. An ecliptic collection of china, coins, watches and grandfather clocks but still interesting.
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Cork airport itself, when you arrive is very small and the planes do what can only be described as parallel parking to fit into the spaces available for them. Having said that getting through the airport is very quick it's about 300 yards from plane to taxi or bus!
As I had just missed the hourly bus (there are two buses an hour into town within 5 minutes of each other!) I caught a taxi to the hotel.
The taxi driver was very friendly and welcoming and apologies for the traffic which is quite bad, not helped by a fiendish one way system that requires you to swap sides of the river at times!
I checked into the hotel and then popped out for a bite to eat before returning for a quick drink in the bar before bed
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The city itself is not full of tourist attractions. It has a large number of churches that would keep a churchaholic happy for a couple of weeks but there are only two worth visiting if you have limited time. In addition to that there are not many museums and in the end only spending one day in Cork there was only two attractions that I did not see, the Crawford Art Gallery and the Cork city museum. In addition a tour of the Beamish Crawford brewery would have been interesting but the site was closed for repairs at the time.
First on the itinerary for the day was the Guide Friday tour of the city. This takes you round the whole of the city centre and out to the city Gaol which was my first stop.
The Gaol, which closed to prisoners in 1923 has an interesting audio guided exhibition on the prisons use and the conditions it's inmates were kept in. After it was a prison it had another life as the headquarters of RTE (the state broadcaster) in Cork and from it's walls the first radio broadcasts in the city were transmitted. There is a museum to RTE radio and the role the Gaol played in it in addition to the Gaol museum.
Next stop, about 3/4 of a mile back down the hill is St. Ann's Shandon and it's bells. This imposing church is made of the two types of stone found in Cork and two sides of the building are in the Red of the Sandstone and the other two sides in the grey of the Limestone. In addition to being a striking building you can also climb the tower (red rag to a bull for me) and part way up ring the famous Shandon bells.
Next stop about 50 yards away is the butter museum but before I popped in there I had a wonderful lunch in the little cafe at the front of the Shandon Craft Centre.
The butter museum is in the site of the former butter market. Cork was the centre of a highly lucrative and important butter industry. The small museum ends with a video presentation on the importance and quality of Irish butter and is in no way a marketing campaign by Kerrygold the Irish state dairy products company!.
After that I wandered over to look at St. Fin Barrs Cathedral which is an interesting (if not slightly brutal looking) cathedral.
From there I went to the Cork vision centre. Set in a old disused church this exhibition centre includes a scale model of the whole of the Lee valley from before it reaches Cork, through the city and out to the sea to Cobh. The centre also has a video presentation on the history and development of Cork.
That evening I went on a very interesting literary tour of Cork that walks round the centre of the city pointing out it's literary connections and ends with a pint of Beamish in a pub opposite the brewery.
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Blarney castle is most well known for it's famous stone that if you kiss you will supposedly get the "gift of the gab". The castle itself is slightly disappointing after all the hype there is very limited signage and it is expensive.
If you do want to go it is best to go early. I got the 08:45 bus from Cork that got me to Blarney just before 09:15, just 15 minutes after the castle had opened and managed to just walk up to the stone and kiss it. By the time I left at 10:30 the queue was already over an Hour!.
After getting back into Cork I set back out again the other side of the city to Midleton.
Midleton is the home to almost all the Irish Whiskeys (Bushmills -distilled in Antrim, Ulster - is the only whiskey not distilled in Midleton). In 1987 a new distillery was opened next to the originally distillery and in 1992 the old distillery was opened as a visitors centre.
The tour lasts about 60 minutes and is very interesting looking at the whole production and looking at where it was actually done. At the end of the tour 4 volunteers are asked for. If you like whiskey I would advise you to be standing at the front with your hand in the air on the "I" of "I would like 4 volunteers".
You get to taste all 4 of the main Irish distillers brands (Jamesons, Paddys, Powers and Bushmills) a Scotch and a Bourbon to compare. The rest of the tour party get a glass of Jamesons.
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This pretty harbour town about 45 minutes from Cork is well worth a visit. One of the most strategic ports until it started silting up.
As tour guides of the town will tell you Kinsale has a large part to play in why English and not Spanish is not the language of such a large number of people. The best way to get an idea of the town is to go on the walking tour that takes you round the old medieval centre of the town and gives you a full history of the site.
After the walking tour I had a look around the small museum that is in the town showing artifacts from the history of the town. Then in the afternoon I went on the Roadrunners bus tour of the town and surrounding area.
The tour is very interesting taking you out to the Atlantic coast at Garretstown and the Old head of Kinsale, back past the Charles fort the defended the harbour entrance for spectacular views of the town before finally returning to the town.
Before leaving I had a look around the Desmond Castle and Wine museum. The castle itself was used as a prison and the display depicts life in the castle when it was a prison. The wine museum charts Kinsale's relationship with the wine industry.
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This is now the main port on this side of the Island of Ireland. During the 19th and early 20th century over 2,000,000 people left Cobh and Ireland seeking a better life in the US, UK, Australia, New Zealand and other countries. Nearly 1/2 of all the people who emigrated for Ireland left through Cobh.
Cobh has also played a key part in two of the biggest maritime disasters of the 20th century. Cobh was the last point at which the Titanic put anchor before setting off to its destiny in the North Atlantic. The last passengers to join the ill fated voyage did so at Cobh and the pilot man who guided the ship out of the harbour was the last person to leave the ship whilst it was still seaworthy.
Cobh was also heavily involved with the rescue and brining ashore of bodies from the sinking of the Lucitania less than 20 miles off the coast. The large ship was sunk by a German torpedo during the First World War.
The Titanic trail walking tour takes you round the town and shows you the main locations that are connected with both the incidents. This well presented and interesting tour is well worth it, not only for the content but also for the views of the town and harbour that you get. There is a complementary 1/2 of Guinness at the top of the hill and the tour ends in the Titanic bar with a complementary Tea/Coffee. The bar in one of it's many incarnations was the offices of the White Star Line and it was from that building that over 100 people left to travel on the Titanic.
After that I visited the Queenstown story (one of the other names that the town has had) which details the emigration from the port and also looks at the Titanic and Lucitania disasters.
After that I went on a boat tour of the harbour which gives you excellent views of the town.
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Cloud cover meant that I saw virtually nothing until about Oxford but I did get a very good view of Heathrow airport and my work place from 28,000ft.
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As soon as the plane had leveled off the cabin crew were down with dinner. This was followed by drinks. Once people had finished they came down and cleared up at the same time as the pilot announced that we were about to start our decent into Glasgow!!.
From the airport I got the air bus into the city centre and from there a taxi to the hotel.
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I went straight to George square to get the sightseeing bus. After going round the East and West routes I went back to the Cathedral and had a look around what is an odd cathedral in so much as it has a lower floor that starts halfway along the cathedral.
After the cathedral I visited the St Mungo's museum of religion which is quite interesting considering the scope for boredom and preaching that such a museum could present.
After that I wandered over to the Necropolis on the hill behind the cathedral. The city of the dead gives stunning views over the east of the city.
After that it was back into the city and onto the riverside tour to see what there was to offer down on the Clyde.
The Tall ships exhibition details the history of navigation and ship building on the Clyde and after that you can explore the only remaining Clyde tall ship in the UK. From there it was back into the city centre and onto the museum of modern art.
This interesting museum has a range of exhibits (paintings, photos, sculpture and "installation's"). Most disturbing of all was the exhibition of photographs from Henri Cartier-Bresson. Exactly the same one I had seen in Budapest, I was convinced I was being followed.
After that back out to the riverside to the Glasgow Science Centre. This comprises the Science mall museum, Imax cinema and Glasgow Tower. Sadly the Glasgow tower which rises 300 feet over the city giving spectacular views was out of service (and has been since one side sunk by 1/4 inch back in March).
The science mall museum is a very interesting and totally interactive exhibition presenting science in an easy to understand and fun way. After visiting the museum I took in two films in the Imax cinema before walking back to the train station to get the train back into the centre and then a taxi back to the hotel.
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Went through to the other side of the city to visit the Kelvinhall museum and art gallery.
This is a large collection on a range of subjects, Archaeology, Natural History and art that has been granted to the city. The building itself is impressive and only slightly dwarfed by the structure of the university that faces it across the river.
Across the road from the museum is the Glasgow museum of transport that charts the changes in transport across Glasgow through the 20th century including a small display to the Locherby disaster.
After that back onto the tour bus and over to the other side of the city to the Providends Lordship, the oldest building in the city. The display inside gives some insight into the history of the city and the relationship of the building to the neighboring cathedral.
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Surprised more than anything that we had made it thanks to the almost complete shut down of the rail network at the beginning of the week and it still being crippled at times I thought I would still have been sitting in a train wondering how I was going to catch a flight I had missed.
After negotiating the airport in about 3 minutes we found ourselves on the airport bus heading into the centre of the city with a gentle drizzle slowing starting to stop.
No matter what weather you approach Edinburgh in you cannot help but to be totally breath taken by the scene that greets you as you turn into princes street and see the castle towering over you. However at almost 10pm after having come straight from work all that was on my mind was bed!
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Visiting Edinburgh the obvious place to start is either by hiring a taxi or get some climbing equipment to scale the hill up to the old town. Failing that it makes for an energetic morning stroll up to the castle.
Seeing as the castle is so old and the repair work that goes on inside it only matched by the nearby Forth bridge every time you visit there will be another new bit to see and a bit you saw before that you cant access this time.
After the views that you can get from the top of the castle the next best viewing point is 247 steps up the inside of the Scott monument. So this appeared to be the next best move for us. After a short climb (about 10 mins if you are unfit and have to stand panting on each landing for a couple of mins) up to the top you get a wonderful view over the whole of Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth.
Last time I came by the time I had got to the top it was already dusk and all you could see was the castle floodlight this time there was much more to see.(through the gloom and murk of an overcast day).
After climbing back down (and spending about 5 minutes to get your balance back after the spiral staircases) it was lunchtime and after that a quick trip to the Edinburgh dungeon.
From there back up the hill to the Camera Obscura and then the Whisky heritage centre.
Finally (in the heavy rain now) back to the hotel to deposit off souvenirs before dinner in a Thai restaurant and drinks in the hotel bar.
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Thankfully the decision was made to turn it into an exhibition and so it returned to the port where it was made and is now a permanent exhibition in Leath harbour just on the outskirts of Edinburgh.
The exhibition is easily reached with buses, even on a Sunday, every 10 minutes. After a short exhibition on the history of the yacht you leave the quay side building and take an audio guided tour round the yacht.
It's an interesting experience and an insight into royal life (and how the other 0.0002% live). To do the ship justice you need a couple of hours to look round the whole of the exhibition and the yacht (though if you don't want to part with large sums of money skip through the gift shop quickly).
After Britannia there was just enough time for a quick coffee and some souvenir hunting before it was time to leave the city again. I have the strange feeling though that I might well be back again very soon....
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First on the itinerary for the day (because it was the closest) was The occupation museum near the centre of town.
The museum itself is slightly disappointing given that its main elements appear to be a 40 minute rather elderly video on the occupation and a display of German uniforms.
the Occupation museum I had quick wander up to the top of the cliffs to have a look down on the town and over the the Elizabeth castle (Sadly closed for the winter) and then wandered back into the town centre to go to the Jersey Museum.
The museum starts with a 12 minute presentation on the history of the island that gives a good background to start exploring the rest of the collection of the museum. The museum itself mostly focuses on the older history (pre-WWII) and the geography/geology of the island.
After the museum it was time to hop on a bus and visit Gorey on the East Coast of the island and one of the best preserved Castles
Mont Orgueil castle is still pretty well intact in many places and offers some stunning views over the small harbour town of Gorey.
After Gorey there was just enough time to zip back into St Hellier and visit the Occupation Tapestry - Put together to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the liberation of the island at the end of WWII - and the Maritime museum.
Both are almost new and very well presented museums that use a range of different mediums to put their message across with the Maritime Museum being very Hand-on.
After that I had a quick wander (in the dwindling light) round the harbour to get a better view of the Elizabeth castle which in situated on a piece of headland that is only connected to the mainland during low tide. After that I quickly popped back to Gorey to get some shots of the castle floodlight and to have dinner in a nice fish restaurant I had spotted before returning back to St Hellier.
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I looked at the map and found lots of places I would like to visit, then I consulted the bus timetable and found that you couldn't get to any of them.
The only place that I could get to was Jersey Zoo so I went out there and was very impressed.
The last time I had visited a Zoo was in Budapest and there the animals were in tiny cages and showing serious signs of mental health problems.
In Jersey the two zoo's couldn't have been more different. Large enclosures gave the animals lots of space to move around in and there were no animals rooted to the spot rocking backwards and forwards that there had been in Budapest.
The zoo has a recommended walking route that allows you to see all the animals and consequently doesn't make it feel as busy as some other zoos do.
Jersey zoo is possibly the only zoo in the world that has Dodo's... If only on top of the pillars into the car park.
After the Zoo it was time to return back into St Hellier, Check out of the hotel and get a cab back to the airport and home.
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Trip to Paris was a birthday treat arranged by my Girlfriend, so I had no idea what to expect when we got to the hotel (later than if I had followed her idea of asking in the station where the hotel was rather than just going out of the station and trying to find it from there).
The hotel was beautiful. Not very obvious from the street and only a small but very comfortable room, but the part that made it special was the view. From the balcony you could look out over the rooftops to the dome of Sacré Cœur floodlight in glory, looking over the city
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After spending nearly 40 minutes admiring it from afar we walked over and waited for the lifts to open to go up it. The views from the top are spectacular taking the whole of the city you can see all the world famous monuments that Paris has to offer including the Arc de Triomphe and Notre-Dame. After spending a couple of hours up the tower we descended and boarded one of the tourist boats to view Paris from the Seine passing the Louvre, Notre Dame and Musee d'Orsay.
The boat returned us to the base of the Eiffel Tower so we caught the RER to Notre-Dame and then sat in a little street cafe to have lunch. Afterwards we walked round the cathedral and then back across the Seine towards the centre of the city. We quickly looked round the outside of the Pompidou Centre before catching the metro back over the river to the Luxembourg Gardens.
After spending some time relaxing in the gardens we walked back towards the Patheon and then, with the sun starting to set went back to the hotel. After a quick refresh, and allowing the sun to set, we walked up to the base of the hill that the Sacré Cœur is on and after taking some photos found a small restaurant off to one side.
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The bus took in the Opera house, the Louvre, Notre Dame, Patheon, Musee d'Orday, Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower (from a number of angels). After a quick pit stop for lunch in a cafe behind the Madeleine we went back to Sacré Cœur to see it in daylight and have a look round the area, including looking at all the painters working away. We took a touristy land train on a tour round the area and down the hill to look at the Moulin Rouge. When returned to the top of the hill we found an exhibition of Dali's work was on display in a little gallery so we spent some time looking around that before finally wandering back down the hill towards the Gare du Nord and home.
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By 11:00pm we had crossed the Mediterranean and were over the continent. Partly because of the size of the seat (that's economy class for you) and partly the excitement that each second I was travelling further south, further from home than I had ever been before, I couldn't sleep.
But that was OK as I managed to re-watch the Lord of the rings - The two towers which BA was playing as one of the in-flight movies!
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Shortly before 6:30 (7:30 local time) and nearly 30 mins early we touch down in Cape Town and I take my first steps on African soil. After an hours wait to get through immigration (I was at the back of a plane and that was the 3rd 747 to come down in 10 mins so there were a lot of people) I emerged into the airport and went to see if I could check in for my connecting flight to Walvis Bay. With an infuriatingly long amount of time to wait until my next flight, but not long enough to risk leaving the airport and seeing the sights of Cape Town, I took a seat and proceeded to have a considerably more pleasant breakfast in the airport.
By 2pm my flight to Walvis was ready to board and for the second time that day I had to change my watch to remove the hour that I had added arriving in Cape Town. During the summer in the UK (winter in Namibia) the two countries are both on the same time zone (GMT+1) then when the clocks in the UK go back an hour at the end of summer, the clocks in Namibia go forward and hour as they start summer so for 6 months of the year the two countries are 2 hours apart. Confused yet? not as bad as when you have to keep changing your clock in the same day, by the time the plane left Cape Town (26 hours after leaving home) I was thoroughly confused on not only the time but the day as well!
The flight from Cape Town runs up the coast line all the way to Walvis. On one side of the plane is the desert on the other, the Atlantic it makes for a beautiful, if not slightly eerie landscape. The whole way we were battling against headwinds and approached Walvis 25 minutes late. We descended towards the airfield and then re-circled as the plane was buffeted by winds, we came back round, descended, got within a couple of hundred feet of the ground before sharply pulling back up again and recirlcling before another attempt. The pilot decided this time to come in high and then descended steeply just before the runway. To say that it was scary was an understatement and by the time we had stopped you could see the dents in every arm rest down the length of the plane where people had been gripping them!
My Sister and Brother-in-law met me at the airport and drove me back through the desert, through Walvis Bay (The second city of Namibia), back into the desert and on into Swakopmund. That evening, as was to be the case on most evenings, I was treated to a spectacular sunset over the Atlantic.
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After sitting out for a few hours my Sister took me Quad biking out in the desert.
After riding over the dunes for 45 minutes you ride up the side of a dune, come to the top and shimmering in the late afternoon sun is the Atlantic, so peaceful, so empty.
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Then a short walk back along the beach having a quick paddle to the centre of town and a quick look in on the Krystal Gallery which shows you some of the rocks, minerals and semiprecious stones that Namibia has in abundance, including the largest single piece of Quartz ever extracted (something over 14 Tons!!).
Then after a quick lunch break the Swakopmund museum which gives a potted history of the region, The older parts of the museum mostly ignore anything that happened prior to the Germans arriving but in the newer exhibitions is starting to address this with very good displays including audiovisual presentations on the history, culture and developments of the tribes who lived in the area prior to white settlers. The museum then looks at the period when it was a South African protectorate (after 1918 - 1990). Another exhibition extolls the virtues of Uranium and nuclear power.. The only problem is the exhibition is paid for and has been put up by the nearby Uranium mine.... not that I am saying there is a clash of interests...
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The land is 10 Km from the main land but the drive is over 40Km.
After offloading the kayaks and a very quick guide to how to use them we set off into the water and row out into the bay. The dolphins and seals swim up close to the kayaks with the seals themselves leaping over them (and splashing the occupants!) The seals obviously enjoy the chance to play and rush out from the coast to swim alongside the Kayaks.
After about 2 hours we pull up onto a sand bank for a quick tea break before going back into the sea for another hour before setting back off home.
This evening we watched from the balcony as a massive electrical storm raged at sea, with lightning streaking across the sky.
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Today was the start of a 6 day, 5 night safari. The safari itself started the previous day in Windhoek but all they had done was to drive down to Swakopmund and then do Quad Biking or Parachuting. After a roadside lunch stop and a chance to meet the other people on the safari we set off to head up the coast to Cape Cross.
Cape Cross has a seal colony on it.... Approximately 250,000 seals... That's 250,000 large, slightly slimy fish eating aquatic mammals... all living together in a very small space. To say that the smell is strong would be an understatement. Despite the smell it is still a spectacular sight to see that number of seals up close.
After Cape Cross we drive towards Spitzkoff, a mountain in the middle of the desert where we set up camp for the night. It is the only point on the trip where we will really camp in the wild as the other campsites will have running water and other amenities, tonight the only light is from the fire. The stars are so clear and then with the moon rose. By pure chance it was a full moon and a completely clear sky. It was amazing how bright it was. The light that the moon gave off was enough to be able to easily see everything without needing a torch!
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After descending from Bushmans paradise we get back on the road and start the journey north. Unfortunately on the way we hit a very bad patch of road and the bolt holding the toe-bar onto the back of the van sheers off, so its a quick running repair before we set back off. We drift down into Uis on the last gasps of the tank and stop for a short pit stop before setting back off.
After about 50 mins we stop for lunch and then set off again, but stop again as funny sounds start coming from the van. After an inconclusive diagnosis (it could possibly be a slow puncture) we continue on to our camp site for the night, set up camp and then get back into the van to go to Twyfelfontein to see the 2000 year old paintings and 5000 year old carvings on the rocks. After Twyfelfontein we drive to the burnt mountain to view a bizarre black/brown mountain in the middle of a yellowy, red desert area.
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Then 30 Km from Khorixas disaster strikes and smoke starts pouring from the wheel that has been making funny sounds. The original plan was that a maintenance person from the safari company would meet us at 11 in Outjo. By 11 we were all sitting at the edge of the road 110Km away. After about 3 hours wait the replacement minibus with maintenance man arrives to see what they can do.
The decision is to transfer us to a minibus for the rest of the day and see if the van can be fixed and so at just before 4pm, over 3 hours late we arrived in Outjo to restock on supplies and have a (very) late lunch!
After Outjo we drove to Etosha National Park where we were to spend the next day and a half. We drove from the gate to the camp site and saw a few giraffe in the distance, a wildebeest and lots of springbok!!
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Unfortunately, for us but not for everybody else, there had recently been heavy rains so all the really big animals, the Cats, elephants, Rhinos etc. had all vanished into the parts of the park that you cannot get to.
Instead we were left with some of the smaller, but still spectacular animals. The Giraffe, Zebra, Springbok, Onyx, Eland, Warthog, Kudu and many more.
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After breakfast we drive through the park to the exit and then drive on towards Lake Guines a spectacular freshwater lake at the bottom of a deep chasm.
The lake was brilliantly blue. The other interesting thing is that nobody has ever been able to find the bottom of the lake!!
After a quick afternoon stop in Otjiwarongo we moved on to our final campsite at Waterbergplateau.
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After clambering back down and breakfast we packed up camp for the final time before setting off to the town of Okahandja and the craft market to pick up a couple of souvenirs before finally setting off on the short drive back to Windhoek.
We had a quick drink in the safaris headquarters and then I was transferred to the Hotel I had booked for the evening. I didn't know it at the time but the Windhoek Country Club is THE hotel in Namibia. I realized this when I found that I wasn't able to dine in the restaurant because I didn't have a shirt or tie!
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The flight was delayed by 30 minutes as we waited for the president to leave the airport.
The flight was in a very small 16 seater plane (8 seats down each side) in which the only staff were the pilot and copilot. You were handed lunch at the gate and you could hear all the noises from the cockpit, including as we approached Walvis Bay "WARNING BELOW 300, WARNING", not for the faint-hearted!
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I have never ridden any animal before and after experiencing a camel trotting across the desert I don't think I ever want to again (I also think that for a short while after I could have easily passed as a soprano and was probably infertile for several days)
It defiantly did something to my bladder as I kept needing to go to the toilet every couple of hours for the next 36 hours (which considering most of that was on a long haul flight was OK because it meant I kept moving around to avoid getting DVT).
After the Camel farm we visited the Snake park next to my sisters office to view some of the creature, including dangerous ones, that I could have come across whilst I was out in the desert. I was so glad I saw all the snakes, and scorpions after I had come back!
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Train was on time throughout its long journey. It's less than 150 miles from London to Weymouth but it takes nearly three hours to do the journey.
Needless to say after such a long journey the only obvious thing to do after I had dropped my stuff off was to go to the pub and as the train hadn't got in until nearly 5pm stay there until closing time!
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First location of the morning was Portland Island. The island is actually connected to the main land by a spit of land but impassible in bad weather.
We got the open top bus all the way to the very end of the island to Portland Bill where the lighthouse and the furthest part of Dorset are
From the Bill you can look across the sea deep into Devon. On a gloriously sunny day the area was peaceful, tranquil and serene. On a wet or gloomy day I gather the best you would be able to come up with is suicide inducing.
We did want to look in the lighthouse museum, but being Saturday it was closed (and that about sums up all there is to know about the state of the Island!!). After visiting the Bill we hopped back on the bus to the Portland Heights hotel.
The hotel is on one of the highest points of the island facing back to the main land and affords spectacular views over the sea, Portland and Weymouth harbours and the thin strip of land that separates them Chesil Beach. After taking in the views we walked down the side of the hill into the main town Fontswell and through to Portland Castle on the other side.
The castle, originally built for Henry VIII, is in amazingly good condition and served as one of the principle forts on the south coast. It was used right up to the end of W.W.II and many of the USA D-day landing craft left from in front of it. An interesting and informative audio tour takes you round the site.
After a spot of lunch it was back on the bus into, and out of the town centre to the country park, about a mile north of the centre up the coast. Inside the park we had a quick look round Model World that has scale models depicting various areas of Dorset.
After that we had a quick round of pitch and put (or not so quick if you take 20 shots a hole and keep loosing the balls!). Then it was onto the land train and back into the centre of town, and a well deserved pint!
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First stop of the morning was the Northe Fort. High on a hill overlooking the port and the town this imposing and very large fort makes for an excellent visitors attraction.
With tons of exhibits in virtually all the rooms in the fort which spans three levels from the basements to the battlements. After spending a couple of hours exploring it we moved back down the hill to the Brewers Quay complex.
A former brewery, it has now been turned into a shopping arcade and home to two museums.
The Timewalk takes you through the history of Weymouth in the company of a talking cat. My initial reaction was that it might be quite kiddyish and to some extent it is but the information and presentation style are such that you forget very quickly that it's coming from a talking cat. The tour ends with a short exhibition on how beer was brewed on the site followed, for adults only, by a tasting of some of the original brews.
After the timewalk there was just enough time to visit the Weymouth Museum. This small museum shows through artifacts (and no talking cats) the history and development of Weymouth and the surrounding areas.
After that there was just time to grab my stuff and get back on the train for another long journey back!
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This trip started with me completing the full set of London airports. The flight from London City airport is strange as you take off from land recovered from the docks, the runway surrounded on both sides and at the end by water and then take off over the sky scrapers and tower blocks of Docklands and SE London. It does however prepare you for the landing at Isle of Man international airport (the only airport on the island) where the runway virtually starts in the sea, you are certainly very, very low before you see the end of the runway appear.
The ride by horse tram is slow and sedate, a comment of the speed of life and most definitely aimed at tourists. The electric tram, although looking like it is aimed at tourists, is one of the main transport links on the island. On a nice warm summers afternoon sitting in an open sided carriage as it winds its way up the cliffs leading out of Douglas it is very pleasant, but I couldn't imagine commuting in it. The less than 10 mile journey to Ramsey takes 75 minutes, not good if you're in a hurry, but it is worth it as the scenery is spectacular and as you travel up towards Ramsey, tracks clinging to the sides of the cliffs you can clearly make out the coast of the mainland. From one spot you can make out the very south of Scotland, the north west coast of England and the north coast of Wales.
Ramsey is a very pretty little harbour town in the north of the island and well worth looking around, though as I arrived in the early evening there was not much open to look at. After spending a couple of hours in the town (including dinner) I wandered back to the station and caught the last tram back into Douglas.
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Castletown is the former capital of the island and it shows in the number of historic and important buildings. The most imposing and obvious being the thing that gives the town its name, the castle. Castle Rushen is still in very good condition and it is very easy to imagine how people live in it. The signage is clear and you get a good idea of the different uses that the castle has been put to through its life. From the top of the castle you get spectacular views over the local area, the port and other buildings.
After looking round the castle I had a quick look round the town before getting on the bus to Peel. One of the major problems with the transport on the Isle of Man (and in many other places, Jersey & Guernsey to name two more) is that everything operates out of the capital and very little goes across. There are just three buses a day that link Castletown in the south east with Peel in the North west. The journey takes little over 30 mins with a direct bus but nearly 2 hours if you have to go into Douglas and back out again. So I decided to split my day by going to Peel in the middle part of the day, and getting the mid afternoon bus back to Castletown.
The main attraction in Peel is its castle. In contrast to Castle Rushen Peel castle is most definitely a ruin. Large fragments of building still exist and it is easy to imagine what the place looked like in its heyday. The castle's importance is brought home when you stand on the western side overlooking the sea and can clearly make out the mountains of Eastern Ireland directly across from you and in the distance to the north the coast of Scotland. Once I had looked round the castle it was time to get the bus back into Castletown.
Arriving back in castletown I had enough time to look around the nautical museum that details the link between the island and the sea. The museum is very interesting and made even more so by the enthusiastic staff. Members of staff will happily show people round and give you so much more information about each exhibit than the signs could possibly hope to.
After visiting the nautical museum there was just enough time to pop into the old grammar school that now houses a small exhibition giving the background to the town and its role in the history and development of the island. After the museum it was back to the train station and on the return to Douglas. The railway itself, was when I visited, undergoing major repair work with all the trains ending at Castletown and buses replacing them through to the normal terminus of Port Erin down in the south west corner of the island. Consequently they had by the afternoon brought out more of the carriages that they were not using to make the train longer so it was a much more comfortable journey back to Douglas.
After a brief stop in Douglas it was onto the bus and back out to Peel to look round the town and harbour and for evening meal. It was well worth the revisit. With Peel being on the west coast the sun setting behind the ruins of the castle whilst sitting on the beach makes for an excellent end to the evening (especially if you have a very pleasant Chinese dinner in your stomach!)
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Unfortunately I am a lazy git so I got the mountain railway that climbs to the top from the town of Laxey where it connects with the electric railway.
The ride up makes for spectacular views over large parts of the island and when you get to the top the views are supposedly so good that you can see England, Scotland, Wales & Ireland as well as Man. Unfortunately on the day I went up there was a sea mist a cloud cover so I didn't see that much (including the bird mess that was on the stone pillar I am photographed next to!!)
The main feature of Laxey, at the base of Snaefell is the water wheel. Built to help pump the mines clear of water it is visible over a large area and from the top viewing platforms provides very good views over the surrounding area. 3 mines trails of varying length's and difficulties take you round the site, showing you the ruins of buildings that were involved in the mining process and how the site worked.
After Laxey it was back onto the bus into Douglas and then back out the other side to the South western town of Port Erin. This is where the southern railway is supposed to finish when it is working properly. I hopped on the shuttle service up to Port St Mary the next town along the coast and had a look around, as there was not much to see I went back to Port Erin and had a look round. The town is quite pretty but it's most distinguishable feature is its beach and bay that look exactly how a small bay should look with a wide sandy beach leading into a clear blue sea.
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A quick trip back into St Hellier and then back out again (one of the major problems with the buses on the island is that you almost never go from one part of the island to the other without changing in St Hellier) to the North East part of the island to Groznes. The castle at Groznes is in ruins, in fact all that remains are the entrance archway and some low walls. However, you can still imagine the importance of the site located on the North East tip of the island with clear views over to Alderny, Herm, Sark and Guernsey. Walking along the coastal path you keep coming across a reminder of a more recent period when the site was of strategic importance, all along the cost the remains of German Watchtowers, gun emplacements and bunkers, some with swastikas still carved into them, remind you that not so long ago Jersey was the front line. From the top of the coastal path you can look down the whole sweep of the single bay that forms the east coast to the south east corner of Jersey and Corbiere lighthouse.
After another trip back into St Hellier it was back out again this time to the afore mentioned Corbiere. The views from the South Easter tip are just as spectacular as those from the North Eastern. If not made all the more notable by the fact I could look directly back at the point I had been standing on less than 2 hours previously.
Corbiere lighthouse is built on a causeway that takes a good 10 minutes to cross. Thankfully as the tide had only just cleared going out it meant that I had a long time to wander over and have a look. You are not allowed into the lighthouse as it is still in use but you can get spectacular views back over the jagged rocks to the cliffs on the mainland.
After Corbiere it was a short hop on the bus to St Brelards Bay which is one of the most attractive bays on the whole of the island. Finally it was time to get back on the bus and back into St Hellier
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Finally getting back into St Hellier I just had enough time to take the last land train tour of the day round the parish of St Hellier. This takes in the whole of the town including the centre, the harbour and the beaches.
After that I caught a bus along the coast to St Aubins to take in the town. It is far prettier than St Hellier. Again it has a off shore defense, this time a fort (not open to the public) and picturesque beaches.
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The castle itself is well preserved having served the town from the early days right up until it was finally vacated by the Germans at the end of WWII. The site is well signed with lots of information and three museums located in various parts of the barracks.
After the castle I came back into town and caught the land train along the coast to St Aubins. The train runs along the original route of the Islands main railway that closed in the early 1930s. The driver gives an interesting and informative commentary on the history of the area, the coast and Jersey in general.
After returning to St Hellier I caught the bus out to the Jersey War Tunnels. These were built originally to be a hospital for German soldiers during the war but served very little role as they were completed close to the end of the war. Having said that they did come at the cost of many hundreds if not thousands of lives of those, usually slave laborer's, forced to construct it. The tunnels now tell the story of the islands occupation from the build up to War in the early days of the 1930s through war and occupation to the eventual liberation of the islands in 1945. Outside the tunnels the site also includes a garden of reflection in which bare facts of the human cost of war are outlined.
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The fact that there is almost nothing here only adds to the sense of foreboding and menace that exists in the tunnels. Built, like its counterpart in Jersey, using slave labor many of whom died in its construction. Unlike Jersey's this has not been restored more than necessary. Water drips from the ceilings, beds and other metalwork rusts and the old tracks used to haul the carts loaded with debris from the construction are still visible. Also visible are several tunnels only partly excavated before the end of the war. The final thing that adds to the sense of menace is the temperature. No matter what the weather is like outside, its always 15°C inside.
After 45 minutes in there it is almost refreshing to step out into what is fast becoming the hottest day on the island ever (only to be beaten the following day and then again on the Saturday!) Next stop is the German Occupation museum located near the airport. Unfortunately this requires you to travel all the way into St Peter Port and then back out again!.
The museum is located down a little side street. The museum gives a well presented oversight to the war and how it affected the residents of Guernsey. The museum has lots of information but suffers slightly from the look that it hasn't been updated since the early 80's with some of the information signs needing a bit of repair.
After the museum it was time to hop back on the bus. Guernsey busses have been designed to criss cross the island, centering on St Peter Port. However one route (Route 7/7A) goes round the outside of the island (7 - Clockwise, 7A Anti-clockwise) giving invaluable links to most parts of the island. From the museum its about 35 minutes by bus to the North west coast of the island and the Rousse martello tower.
One of the many martello towers built around the island this has been turned into a small display of what life would have been like when it was in use at the time of the Napolionic wars. Wax works within the tower show how cramped life would have been like and the nearby magazine store has information boards giving a background to the Rousse tower and the martello towers in general. After a quick wander round the site and the nearby beach it's time to hop back on the bus, complete the clockwise loop and head back into St Peter Port
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Fort Grey down almost at the bottom of the west coast resembles a cup and saucer and is home to the islands maritime museum. The museum details the maritime history of the island. It also focuses quite heavily on the accidents and shipwrecks that have occurred off the adjacent treacherously rocky western coast.
After Fort Grey its off round to the North East cost to Pembrook bay where the remains of several passage graves are, along with stunning views back over this very flat end of the island. Then it was back into town and on to Sausmarez Manor. This is a Manor house set in several acres of land just outside St Peter Port. The house itself is closed to the public most of the time, but you can wander round the grounds, visit the lakes or take in the tropical garden and sculpture trail. Then it was back onto the bus and out to Grand Rocquez on the west coast.
The fort here has been heavily reinforced during the German occupation and is interesting to look at to see the differences in style between the 18th century brick and stone work and the 20th century concrete!
Back down the coast to the southern most town of Pleinmont and another spectacular bay. This time you can look up almost half the length of the island seeing all the headlands come in and out along with also being able to see the island of Lihou.
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However I didn't know and so at 7:45 I was standing on the Quay side at St Peter Port ready to board the milk boat to Sark. The first sailing of the day is at 8:30, but as it is very popular they have two boats do it. The first one leaves once its full so we set off by 8:10.
After arriving on the island you have the interesting prospect of climbing up the hill to the village that is located at the top, its about 500 feet but the climb takes less than 1/2 mile so you can imagine how steep it is.
After collecting and paying for the hire bike I set off to the south of the island and then proceeded to visit all other parts of the island, rapidly coming to the conclusion that there is not that much to see on Sark. There are no really beautiful bays or interesting beaches, just lots of ferns and gravel paths!
Still I managed to keep cycling up until it was time to drop the bike off and get the ferry back to St Peter Port.
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After Castle Cornet I wandered down the coast road to the La Vallette underground museum. This is housed in yet more tunnels dug for the Germans by prisoners, this time for housing fuel storage tanks for refueling U-boats, this is an eclectic collection of posters, signs, memorabilia, paraphernalia, vehicles, uniforms and medals from both sides. There is little in the way of signange to tell you what the things are, but most speak for themselves.
After that it was a short walk further on and up the side of the cliff to Fort George. Originally it was built to supersede Castle Cornet but has in time come to be the less important of the two. Most of the buildings are still there but are currently sealed awaiting the site to be properly developed into a tourist attraction, but for good views out over the bay and St Peter Port it is a good site.
Then it was back into town and up to the Museum and Art gallery to look around. The museum gives an in-depth guide to the history of the islands, from their geological creation 8000 years ago (prior to that they had just been large hills on the landscape of France prior to the bay of San Marlo forming), through their development at the hands of humans, their changes of ownership between France and England, their occupation and liberation during WWII up to the modern day. The gallery also contains some of the art works that the state owns.
Then it was back down the hill to the town and pick up the bus to the second town of the island, St Sampson. Located just outside the town in Vale castle. From the road Vale castle, looks as though it is spectacular, unfortunately once you go inside you realize that the outside walls is virtually all that exists of the site. You can still make out where dividing walls once went, but apart from the odd small slab of stonework it is only the outside walls that have remained.
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Unlike Sark, Herm has been very strict with the motor transport. 1 tractor and a couple of quad bikes to empty the plentiful bins around the island. Even the kids have to give up their bikes by the time they get to 16! The island is very small (less than a mile long by 3/4 mile wide) but as most people head for the beaches on the East coast you can very quickly find yourself in absolute peace a quite overlooking the white sand dune beaches of the north coast or looking back onto the main bays from the South cliffs path. To walk the whole way round the island takes little over 2 hours if you walk fast, but it is well worth gently strolling to get a better view of the island.
After getting a late afternoon sailing back to St Peter Port, and a quick shower, it was time to visit the German Naval Headquarters, that open on Monday evenings from 7-9.
Built during the war to house the Naval intelligence for the German forces, this site is unique in not only giving you an idea of how the average German soldier spent their time at work, but because most of the details and information came from interviews with the officer who oversaw the construction and running of the site throughout the war. There is a short video presentation that includes part of those interviews and he (sadly now deceased) walks you round the site reminiscing on where things were and how the headquarters operated, especially once the islands had become isolated after D-day.
Finishing off the day I decided to get the bus from near the German Naval Headquarters back to Grand Rocquez on the west coast to watch the sunset. Unfortunately for me, the sea mists had different ideas and by the time I got there the sun couldn't be seen and all there was, was a light grey mist!
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After wandering around some back roads for a while we eventually came across the hypermarket and proceeded to spend the next 2 hours overfilling a large trolley.
Once the greed over cheap booze had abated we drove back into Calais itself and went for a meal on the sea front, during which the wind started to rise from bracing to gale!
After the meal we wandered back into the main part of the town itself and had a quick look around before it was time to return to the car and take the ferry back, this time with a considerable swell that caused a little bit of rolling and a 20 minute delay to the crossing. The journey back from Dover, going all the way back up to the M25 on the motorway and then back down again, took considerably less time than going in a straight line had in the morning!
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First stop was the cathedral and its grounds and then onto the castle.
From the top of the hill that the castle is on you get a clear view over the whole of the city and the multitude of spires and towers that dot the city.
After a brief lunch in the Adam and Eve pub round the back of the cathedral it was into the car and off through the Norfolk countryside heading, originally to the Neolithic Grimes Graves.
Unfortunately we were beaten by the early sunset and missed the last tour so we carried on the short distance into Kings Lynn and had a look around the town.
After that it was back into the car and back across the fens towards Norwich.
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After setting off from Norwich we headed across towards the North East corner of the county.
First stop was near Ludham where we caught the Electric Eel boat into the Dykes and side canals of the broads. The channels are so thin that the boat was constantly being filled by reads as we brushed past them.
After that it was back into the car and onto West Somerton where we stopped to take in the broads and some of the windmills.
After lunch just north of Horsey we headed up to the coast at Sea Palling and had a look at the coast and dunes there, then it was back down to Horsey to look at one of the large open expanses of water on the broads.
Finally back into the car and heading back home via Lowerstoft and Cambridge.
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As you walk round the city you can quickly loose count of all the various boards advertising ghost walks. In the height of summer there must be hundreds of people wandering round the city after dark on a ghost walk. In the depths of winter there were still at least 3 an evening!
For the Saturday evening I joined the Ghost Hunt from the top of the Shambles (the most photographed street in York). After the walk was over I quickly had a bite to eat and then went back to the hotel to prepare for a long day ahead!
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So with the sun barely up in the sky (It was the shortest day of the year) I started on Section 1 of the wall. The main reason to begin with was to visit the museum located in one of the former gate house (or Bars as they are called in York) - Micklegate Bar. Unfortunately, despite York tourism web site insisting that it was open, it was closed so I carried on walking round the walls until they met the river Ouse at the site of the old castle.
After a quick stop for coffee it was time to step back a couple of centuries more from the Medieval walls to the Viking history that has made York (or Jorvik as the Vikings knew it) world famous.
The Jorvik Viking centre is a combination of a museum and a dark ride that tries to explain something about how the Vikings lived when they settled in York and to show off some of the finds that they have made over the city.
After the Jorvik centre, as it was freezing cold, I decided to pop into the York Dungeon. The Dungeon is laid out in a similar way to the Edinburgh dungeon and still reflects the grizzly and murky world of the past, but from a Yorkshire view!
After a quick stop for lunch I rejoined the walls to walk round section 3 stopping part way along to visit the Richard III museum in Monks Bar. The museum is a strange mix of information. Part of it is about the Bar and the walls (including the fact that it still has a working portcullis.) The remainder of the museum is set out like a trial explaining the murky history over Richard III and the allegation that he had his two nephews (the actual king and prince of Wales) imprisoned and killed in the Tower of London so that he could assume the throne. After listening to the arguments for and against you can vote yourself as to whether you think the original "Tricky Dicky" is guilty or innocent.
I finished walking round the walls to Bootham Bar including spectacular views of the back of the Minster. After that I had a quick wander round the grounds of the Yorkshire museum and gardens to view the remains of St. Mary's Abbey which was destroyed after the Reformation.
Then it was back to the walls to complete section 2 of the walls from the site of the Old Castle round to the back of town.
Next stop was the Art Gallery, I'm not into art massively and this collection is not massively spectacular but it is housed in a warm building out of the, by now, bitingly cold wind!
After a quick stop at the hotel to rest my feet and to have a quick bite to eat it was time to set off for another ghost walk. This time starting from the Jorvik Viking Centre.
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Taking a slower than usual pace as the roads were like and ice rink I walked over to the Minster to look round. The Minster is the largest medieval building this side of the Alps and has more Medieval stained glass in its windows then the rest of the UK combined. There is a lot to see at the Minster but not if you are on a limited budget. To see everything that the Minster has to offer you have to pay £8.50 which is a lot for a big church!!
In addition to the Minster itself you can also view the undercroft and crypts which house not only the treasury of the Minster but also the remains of the original Roman base that was situated on the same space where the Minster now stands. The display also explains about the other two cathedrals that have existed on the site over the last 2000 years. The current Minster was started in 1245 but before that there had been a Norman Cathedral and another before that. Just outside the Minster you can see one of the columns from the Roman site that the archaeologists found lying on its side (unfortunately, as any local will tell you they got it wrong and it is upside down with the top concreted into the pavement!)
The final thing you can pay to do is to climb all 275 steps to the roof and get the spectacular view over the city.
After the Minster, and a well earned hot chocolate to warm up, I wandered over to Clifford's Tower. This is all that remains of the original castle and is now just a shell, apart from two spiral staircases that allow you to access the top of the tower to walk round. The tower itself is set on top of a high bailey so the views from the top, not being quite as good as those from the Minster are still spectacular.
After Clifford's tower I walked over to the castle museum. Set in the old Women's and Debtor's prisons the museum was started in the 1930's by a local doctor who noted that the rural way of life was disappearing but wasn't being noted down. To stop it from being lost he started collecting everyday artifacts to preserve the history of the way of life. The museum itself has grown so large that it has two mock up of streets inside which put the artifacts in the surroundings they would have fitted in.
The museum also has the cells of the old prison in it and you can visit the cell that the famous highway man Dick Turpin stayed in prior to his execution!
After the museum it was time for some refreshment and this came in the form of the York Brewery. Set up in 1996 this is a "Micro-brewery" set in a small building within the city walls. The brewery only produces a small amount of beer that mostly goes to the local area (although one of the large supermarket chains had just brought up their entire production of one type of beer!). The tour of the brewery includes a tasting of two of the beers that they brew.
Now happily insulated against the cold I walked back over to the other side of the city to visit the Yorkshire Museum. This is another bizarrely mixed museum pulling together artifacts from the cities and counties past but in no particular order, so that you get the whole of the Roman and Viking history and then leap back into prehistory and the dinosaurs!
Just enough time to grab some food before another Ghost Walk. This time leaving from outside the Minster.
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After leaving my luggage at the left luggage office I wandered round the side of the station to the York Model Railway. Set in a former tea room this massive layout can quite happily while away the time waiting for your train.
After visiting the model railway it was time to visit the real thing at the National Railway Museum. As York was formerly one of the principle towns building trains in the country it was only fitting that the museum to British Rail should open in one of their former workshops (they don't explain how many people were made redundant when the workshop closed!) The museum charts the history of the train in the UK with full size examples of trains and carriages. It also includes a couple of examples of foreign trains such as the Japanese bullet train.
After visiting the Railway Museum it was time to go back to the station and get the train home, thankfully not a museum piece!
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Next stop was a wander through the old town to the Cathedral. Inside the main tower of the cathedral a lift has been installed so that you can reach the roof easily and it is worth it. There are some stunning views available over the whole of the city.
After the Cathedral and a quick pause for coffee we followed on of the walks in the Time Out guidebook that took us round the main Modanistas buildings. After the walk we had a late lunch and then went out to the Sagrada Familia.
The Sagrada Familia was started over 100 years ago and its still not built! Nowadays the main columns and the towers are up and things are progressing fast enough that it may even be finished by 2017! The views from the towers are spectacular, but not for the faint hearted!
Finally for the day we headed over to one of the most famous Gaudí buildings the Casa Milà. From the bizarre and peculiar roof we watched the sunset.
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After that it was the tube and bus out to Parc Güell another one of Gaudí's masterpieces for a pleasent afternoon in the sun, before finally heading back into town and out to the airport.
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After unpacking and getting settled in I set out for an evening in the German capital. First stop was the Brandenburg gate, probably the most famous site in the whole of the city if not one of the most recognisable sights in Europe.
The gate itself is mammoth. Until you see it in person it is very difficult to get a full idea of quite how large it actually is. It puts most other structures to shame and certainly eclipses both Marble Arch in London and the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.
The gate is made all the more impressive by its recent restoration and looks as though it could have been installed only a few weeks ago not a couple of hundred years!
After the gate I walked the short distance to the Reichstag. Left destroyed after someone burnt it to the ground in 1933 which allowed the Nazis to seize power in German (let your own ideas in here as to who was responsible but I know where my money lies) the former seat of German power was repaired after the war but didn't serve as the parliament of Germany until a couple of years ago after Berlin was once again declared capital and the Reichstag was completely refurbished and rebuilt. The original dome has been replaced with a new glass structure that allows you to see over large parts of the city as well as down into the debating chamber.
After the Reichstag I decided to call it an evening and went for dinner. One thing that is noticeable in major international cities is how difficult it is to find local restaurants. It is very difficult to eat Spanish in Barcelona, it is hard to find Hungarian in Budapest and its almost impossible to find German in Berlin. After much hunting I had to have an Itallian-German cross of a Three Wurst Pizza!
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Located in a specially built building that is designed to look like a twisted and damaged Star of David this museum attempts to tell the history of Jews in Germany. Their history, culture, fight for equality and the attempt by the Nazi's to wipe them out. The museum pulls no punches and does not make pleasant reading for anyone when you see the numbers of people persecuted, not just during WWII. It is a very sobering museum, not least of all because of the images and stories of people who died purely because of their religion and one groups hatred of it.
After visiting the museum I went back into the centre of the city and visited the Gendarmenmark. Here are the Opera House and the German and French Cathedrals that latter two exactly matching each other. The French Cathedral itself is being repaired but I could still go inside and climb the tower to get views over the whole of the area.
After that I walked the short distance over the river and onto museum island where a large number of the cities main museums are as well as the Berlin Cathedral. The building looks like a smaller version of St Pauls in London, only with slightly more adornments. Inside it is actually quite small, compared to other Cathedrals. The entry to the Cathedral also includes the ability to climb to the base of the dome and go out onto the roof, and as you might have guessed from reading past entries I did! After being gently flash freezed by the wind I came back down into the base of the Cathedral into the crypt where the bodies of the Prussian and German royal families are kept dating back several hundred years. All their coffins laid out in rows along the floor of the crypt is a little creepy.
After the Cathedral I came back towards the western side of the city and visited the Memorial Church. Almost totally destroyed in bombing towards the end of WWII all that remains are the base of the tower and a half broken spire. It is a sudden reminder of exactly what happened not that long ago.
After that I went over to the Potsdamer Platz. Up until the fall of the Wall this was one of the places where it was at its widest and an empty wasteland. Since the fall the area has been completely rebuilt and now looks like a mini Manhattan rather than the former site of such suffering. One of the new buildings in the headquarters of Daimler Chrysler and you can take "The fastest lift in Europe" to the top of their building to get views out over the area.
Then I went slightly further along the course of the wall to one of the other famous sights of the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie. The original was removed shortly after the fall of the wall but in the best interests of international tourism a replica along with the original sign telling you that you are "Leaving the American sector" have been put back in.
After dinner I came back to Checkpoint Charlie to visit the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. A museum dedicated to all the attempts to try and escape East Berlin and make it to the west.
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After a short climb up (nearly 300 steps!) I could look out over the whole of the Tiergarten and down to the Reichstag and Brandenburg gate.
Next stop was Alexanderplatz to go up another tower (lift this time) - the TV tower, however as the queue was already out of the door I decided to leave that to later and instead headed over to the other side of the city and a related item the Radio tower to go up that instead (If you haven't already guessed I did spend most of the holiday at least 100m up in the sky!) Located in the International Conference Centre in the Western suburbs the views from the top of the tower are spectacular if only for seeing the complexity of Berlin's motorways which all seem to intersect just below the tower. The only real problem with the Radio tower is that it is built to withstand extremes of weather and in such a way does gently sway with the wind. When it is very windy this swaying becomes slightly disturbing.
Once down on the ground it was time to go back across the city to the East Side Gallery. These are the Murals on the only major remaining section of the Berlin Wall. About 1KM of wall has been retained running along the course of the river and decorated with some of the most famous murals that were originally done on the West side of the wall!
After that I crossed the city again (by this point I realised that I had not planned today particularly well) and out to the Olympic Stadium. Built for the 1936 Olympic Games the building is a fine example of how to impress by sheer brute force. The whole site is large and brutal looking almost the same as the major Soviet buildings. The view from the top (surprise, surprise) of the clocktower however is breathtaking looking over all the woodland areas south towards Charlottenburg and the state capital of Potsdam.
Back over then to Alexanderplatz where the queue for the TV Tower still had not shortened but I did have time to look round the square that was once the international show piece of the DDR (Deutscher Democratik Republic - East Germany)
The it was back towards the hotel to visit the Story of Berlin. This multimedia exhibition tells the story of the history of the city from a small hamlet first mentioned in the 13th Century through its rise to prominence in the Prussian empire, its creation as a German capital, its role in the events that lead up to the First and Second world wars, its separation and eventual reunification.
Then, finally it was back to Alexanderplatz to the TV tower and the fortunate site of no queue so I could go up the TV Tower and see Berlin at night!
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So instead of flying out of Berlin at midday I instead took advantage of the situation to visit the state capital of Potsdam, about 25Km outside of Berlin.
The city itself was almost totally destroyed during WWII but some parts still remain and the palaces out in the main park escaped totally unscathed.
As I only had a couple of hours to get out, back and visit I could only walk around and not actually go into anything but it certainly left the impression that this was a city that I would want to go back to.
After Potsdam I came back into the city and back, for the second time that day, out to the airport almost able to recite the names of the bus stops for heart!
Eventually 6 hours after I was supposed to be leaving Berlin my flight pushed back from the stand and made its way to the runway. A very very pleasant holiday but tinged with an element of anger at the airline.
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The beds are not the worlds widest and the motion of the train is a little odd, you feel yourself rolling each time it accelerates and breaks and when it goes round bends fast a leans a little you feel like you are being pulled down the bed! I did manage to get to sleep and must have been asleep by the time it got to Preston because I don't remember it stopping to pick people up.
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When I finally woke up properly it was about 6:30 and in the middle of the wilds of the Scottish Highlands. The train was running about 30 minutes late after getting stuck behind a slow moving train during the night but that was OK as I wasn't in a rush and it was very pleasant to lie on a bed looking out of the cabin window over the Highlands.
The train finally pulled into Inverness at about 8:30 so I had plenty of time to drop off my bag at left luggage and then had the whole day to explore. Originally I was going to go to Culloden first off, but as I emerged from the station I noticed the bus to Fort George was parked waiting to go so I decided to visit there first.
Fort George is one of the largest and most spectacular fort built on the UK mainland. The perimeter of the walls is over 1KM and the site still has all its original buildings. There are lots of museums to explore and several small exhibitions on the use of the fort over its life. However as the fort is still used as barracks for the army there are some areas that are off limits.
After leaving the fort I managed to get a bus straight away (fortunate as they are only every 90 minutes) and went back into Inverness.
From there I picked up another bus out to Culloden and the battlefield. Culloden is he place where the Jacobite revolts of the 18th century finally died, and the site of the last battle to be fought on British Soil (though the Channel Islanders may have something to say about that and World War II) On this site almost all of the 5000 strong Jacobite army died along with about 500 Government troops. I decided to pay the small charge and look round the visitors centre before going onto the battle field itself.
The whole exhibition has a distinct bias trying to portray the incident as Scots being massacred by the English. If you look deep enough at the exhibition it does admit that there were more Scots on the Government side than on the Jacobite side and that a large number of the Jacobites were French, Irish and even English!
The battlefield itself is very bleak, just a wind-blown moor overlooked by snow-capped mountains and boggy underfoot. Every few yards there are stones with the names of the different clans from who people died in the 45 minute long battle.
After Culloden it was back on the bus and into the city centre a time for a quick wander round the outside of the Castle (it is the sheriff's court so you are not allowed inside) and then a walk along the banks of the river Ness taking in the small and slightly dingy cathedral. I walked down for north bank for about a mile and then walked across the small bridges onto the Ness Islands that sit in the middle of the river and then back onto the South bank and went back into town.
After a quick dinner in town I joined the Inverness Terror Tour for a ghost walk round the city. The tour is well presented but, unfortunately, not very many grizzly and gruesome things have happened in Inverness, so many stories that are familiar from Edinburgh were told with the omission of where they actually took place.
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The tour itself is really well presented in a funny yet informative fashion. The tour only covers about a 20 mile route so there is lots of time to talk about the area and lots of photo stops, the first being by the Ness Islands where I had been the previous evening! Next stop was at the last Lock on the Caledonian canal before it enters the River Ness and then into Loch Ness then it was on to the road that runs by the side of the Loch and a photo stop just after the start/end of the Loch.
After that there was a brief stop to buy tasteful and imaginative quality souvenirs (i.e. a stuffed Nessie and chocolate highlands cows!) and then a quick video (in the bus - it was all very high-tech!) background to some of the sightings of the elusive beastie and some of the hoaxes that they myth has sported.
Then it was onto the Loch Ness 2000 exhibition. Through several rooms of audio visual exhibitions it tries to tell the story of Loch Ness from how it was formed to the mysteries of Nessie. Of all the explanation's for it's sighting my money is on too much Whiskey!!
From there it was onto an ancient burial chamber out in the wilds before coming back to Urqhart castle and the point at which the bus part of the tour ended. After spending 90 minutes looking round the castle it was time to get a boat back along Loch Ness, up the River Ness and onto the Caledonian Canal back into Inverness.
There was just enough time, by the time I got back to Inverness for a quick dinner and then it was time to re-board the sleeper for its long journey back south.
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Despite that I arrived at Köln-Bonn airport on time and quickly caught the bus into the city centre.
After popping into the tourist information centre to pick up a Welcome Card I took the tram out to the hotel and quickly checked in before heading back out into the city.
First stop was one of the bridges over the Rhine to the south of the centre of the city for the views of the Cathedral across the river. Then it was back over for a closer look at the Cathedral.
After a wander round the cathedral square it was time to find dinner and then head back to the hotel.
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After a short stop for Coffee and Post cards I went on the City tour aboard a luxury coach. The tour takes you round all the main parts of the city and had the added bonus of helping to improve my German listening as I managed to understand parts of the German Commentary (although partly helped by the tour guide repeating herself in perfect English!) The tour included a short stop for photos on the opposite bank to the Cathedral and a quick introduction to the city museum.
After a pause for a traditional German snack - Currywurst and Mustard - on the station concourse I was refreshed and went back to have a look inside the cathedral (as there were no services going on at the time.)
After spending some time in the Cathedral (it is larger than it looks and time seamed to slip past very fast) I came out and went for a wander round the old town including the Hay market and Fish market before settling on a nice looking restaurant on the Fish market by the banks of the Rhine for dinner.
After dinner and a wander round the old town at night (to wear off the excessive food and exceptional pleasant Kölsch) I got the tram back to the hotel.
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It was Monday and Aarchen was closed... except for the Cathedral and the Cathedral's Treasury and I arrived in the city shortly after a service had started so I couldn't go into the cathedral!! Instead I had a wander round the city center which was very attractive and a look in the Cathedrals Treasury which is reckoned to be one of the most impressive in the world and includes part of the remains of Charlemagne. By then the service in the Cathedral had finished so I was able to look round the inside of the Cathedral which, despite being quite dark inside, is very impressive.
After that there was very little else to do in Aarchen so I got the train back into Cologne and caught the tram down to Bonn.
It was Monday and Bonn... You get the idea except the Cathedral is a large church without a treasury but there was one museum open.
After a quick look round the Münster I wandered over to the Beethoven house museum. The building is where the composer and musician was born and raised in and now houses the worlds largest collection on Beethoven artefacts.
After looking round the center of Bonn I decided to catch the tram to the end of line in Bad Godesberg, a spa town - hence the Bad - about 7Km south of Bonn. The town was very pretty but it was Monday and.... You get the picture.
I caught the tram back to Cologne, this time going along the course of the Rhine rather than down through Brüel as I had done coming.
After popping back to the hotel briefly to drop off guide books I wandered back into the centre of town for dinner in another restaurant in the Fish market before heading back for bed.
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The Cable Car crosses the Rhine and from my little car I got spectacular views across the city and the Rhine including back to the Cathedral in its full glory.
After the Cable Car I popped down to the south of the city and visited the Rautenstrauch-Joset Museum which has an interesting collection of Far and Near East artefacts, all displayed in German though so it really stretched my ability (to find the right words in the dictionary!)
From there I came back into the centre of the city and visited the Römisch-Germanisches Museum which has a massive collection of remains and artefacts that have been recovered shedding light on Cologne as a Roman city in the 1st Century.
After that I had a quick lunch and then headed over to the Kölnisches Stadtmusuem - the city museum - that the bus tour on Saturday had briefly stopped at.
The museum has an interesting collection of artefacts that tell the history and culture of Cologne including its famous February Carnival. The most moving display was the aerial photograph - that was taken of the city shortly after the end of the war showing a scene of total devastation with every building, except the Cathedral, a ruin and the bridges lying shattered in the Rhine - and fragments of some of the bombs that fell on the city.
By then the time had come to head back to the airport to get my flight back to the UK.
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Despite another plane having "technical difficulties" and closing Gatwick's runway for 30 minutes the flight landed in Geneva on time less than 5 hours after boarding the night bus, but into the same rain! After a quick exit through the airport and a spot of late breakfast/early lunch we headed into the city on the trolley bus to drop luggage off at the Central Station (as the hotel wouldn't check us in until 3pm)
With the weather deciding to tone down to just a mild drizzle/mist we had a wander round the lake side and the old town taking in the Floral clock and Jet d'Eau - a fountain that shoots a single jet of water some 140m into the sky before it falls back into the lake (or onto unsuspecting tourists) - the town hall, with the building where the Geneva Convention was signed, and the wall of the reformation before stopping for a late lunch (yes I know with the breakfast at Gatwick, snacks on the plane, the Brunch at Geneva airport and toast before we had even left for the night bus that brings the running total to about 5 meals before 3pm but there was a lot of walking and we had been up since 4!)
After lunch we popped back to the Central station to pick up luggage and then checked into the hotel before setting back out again to visit the Cathedral.
We caught the tram back into the old town and then walked up the hill past the Russian church and the museum (diving under the cover of trees as a particularly spectacular cloud burst decided to soak Geneva) before reaching the Cathedral.
The area underneath the cathedral has been excavated and how houses an archaeological museum which gives an in-depth audio guide to the developments of the site over the last 1600 years. After visiting the archaeological museum we went into the cathedral which is a strange mixture of architectural styles with no one part matching any other part. Inside it is quite small and dark but with some very bright stained glass and the option to climb one of the towers.
After the cathedral we headed back into town to find a restaurant (I know that makes meal 6!) and the local speciality fondue. Then it was back to the hotel to rest our aching feet (and distended stomachs.)
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We decided to try and spend the day doing things where we wouldn't get wet and the most obvious was to visit the fairy-tale castle of Chillon at the other end of the lake. We got the train from the main station to Montreux, which took just under the hour, and then had a quick wander round the town and down to the lake including past the statue of one of Montreux's most famous residents - Freddie Mercury, who died in the town - before stopping for an early lunch.
After lunch we got the trolley bus along the edge of the lake to Chillon and visited the castle.
The castle, although being quite compact, has lots to explore including large areas underneath the main buildings and all the original walkways. In the end we spent almost two hours wandering round the site in the dry (with the occasional dash through open courtyards avoiding the rain)
By the time we left the rain had stopped and looking down the lake towards Geneva there were just the faint signs of sunlight on the water.
We got the trolley bus back into Montreux and decided to get the cogwheel railway up to Glion, a town directly above Montreux in the mountains. The railway climbs through twisting tunnels and winding tracks up the side of the mountain reaching Glion in about 10 minutes. From there we got spectacular views over the lake and the Rhone valley.
The even quicker way down from Glion is the funicular railway which took us to the bottom of the hill in about 2 minutes and from there we caught the Trolley bus back into the centre of Montreux and the train home.
After dropping some souvenirs and guide books back at the hotel we caught the tram out to Carouge, one of Geneva's suburbs to eat in a recommended restaurant.
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After checking out of the hotel and dumping the luggage at the station we headed down to the lake and decided to take one of the ferries across to the other bank of the lake before catching another one over to the international area of the city, where the Red Cross and United Nations are based.
After having a wander round the parks near the UN we caught the tram back to the centre and got some bits for lunch before catching the bus out to a park to sit in the sun and enjoy lunch.
After lunch and with the sky still clear, just some fluffy clouds collecting around the middle of the mountains opposite, we decided to go a view Geneva from 3000 feet.
Geneva is less than 5 miles from the Franco/Swiss border and regular buses take you to the boarder post. From there it is a short walk to the base of Mont Salève and the cable car station (you didn't think we were going to climb to the top did you!)
The views from the top are spectacular with the lake and the city laid out beneath you. You can look down the lake and on the day we were there make out the city of Lausanne about halfway along the lake. Looking across Geneva we could also make out the airport and the planes taking off and landing
We walked around to the other side of the Summit and looked across to the Savoy Alps and the peak of Mont Blanc.
We walked back to the cable car station at which point we realised we only had 2 hours 50 minutes until the flight... ... 2 hours 35 by the time the cable car set off... ... 2 hours 30 by the time we realised we had just missed the bus... ... 2 hours by the time we caught the bus... ... 1 hour 30 minutes by the time we reached the station with the information that there was a train in 4 minutes and then a 25 minute gap... ... 1 hour 28 minutes by the time we grabbed the luggage and ran for the platform... ... 1 hour 26 minutes as the train pulled out with us sitting on it panting. Thankfully we arrived at the airport 5 minutes later and checked in with plenty of time to spare!
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Still, it was only 10 yards from the station to the hotel so I only got soaked rather than drowned.
My original plan had been to pop into the centre of town briefly after checking in but instead popped to the bar to warm up and to sample what Belgium is famous for... Beer.
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After Le Manneken-Pis I got the open top (thankfully closed top as it decided at that point to have another small monsoon) bus for a tour of the city centre and EU district.
After that I wandered up past the Royal palace to the Palace of Justice and the views over the city. Then a short stop for lunch in the Parc du Cinquantenaire looking over the Belgium Arc de Triomphe.
After lunch it was a short trip on the Metro and Tram out into the western suburbs and the Basilique du Sacré Coeur. Modelled on it's name sake in Paris it has the dubious reputation of possibly being one of the ugliest buildings in the city (and this includes some of the monstrosities that the EU call home!)
However, it is still a very very impressive building and the views that you can get from the roof (lift, no spiral staircases) are spectacular.
After dodging another shower whilst I was inside the Basilique I went back into the city centre and to the Comic book museum.
After beer and chocolate this is probably what Belgium is most famous for. It's certainly one of it's more obvious exports with the prime example being Tintin.
The museum itself charts the history of Comic strips as well as looking at the process of writing a comic strip and transferring it to the screen as animation.
With the sky's clearing I followed the suggestion of the guide book and took one of the more scenic trips in Brussels. Down the length of the number 44 tram line to the suburb of Tervuren. The tram runs along side, and at times through the edge of one of the last bits of ancient forest in Europe.
The town itself is best described as "quaint" and most obviously home to many an EU bureaucrat, however running behind the centre of the town is a spectacular park which in the late evening sun was very pleasant.
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The city itself does look as though it has never quite left the middle ages (except for the traffic) and is an almost perfect example of a medieval city.
The best way to get a view of the city is from the top of the bell tower, and guess what - I climbed it!
After the tower the next best way to see the city is from the canals. The city is ringed by approximately 8Km of canals and along the length of them are landing stages for the tourist cruises that ply their way up and down the canals, all following exactly the same route! Though it is a pleasant way to spend 30 minutes
After the Canals and a light lunch I decided to take the guided bus tour of the city that takes you round some of the medieval back streets of the city, which would have been great if they hadn't also been trying to run a road race on the same day, so the bus kept getting diverted!
Next stop was one of the many churches in the city the church of the Holy Blood which is split into two parts an upper, very ostentatious part and the lower more refined chapel.
Next stop is Our Lady's Church which contains an original Michelangelo statue (the Madonna with child) and then on to the Cathedral to have a look round before finally going back to the station and getting the train back to Brussels.
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Heysel - Sadly, most famous for the disaster at the football stadium - is the site of a former World Fair, of which the only lasting exhibits are the American theatre and the Atomium, the giant structure of an atom that is one of the most famous symbols of the city.
First stop before the Atomium was the next door MiniEurope which has scale replicas of some of the most famous buildings from each of the members of the EU (or most as, of the 10 who had joined a few weeks earlier only Poland had an exhibit).
After wandering round MiniEurope and experiencing being able to stand next to the Brandenburg gate in Berlin and look across to the Sacré Cœur in Paris, the Bell Tower in Bruges and Dover Castle at the same time I walked back to the Atomium.
The Atomium, when it opened was a marvel of design with lifts and escalators disorienting you as you moved around the 8 or so spheres, each with 2 floors.
Unfortunately, today only 4 spheres are open, the displays are tired and most the escalators don't work, though the views from the top sphere are spectacular (if slightly grey from the dirt on the outside of the windows)
After the Atomium I went back into the city centre and following another suggestion in the guide book took one of the trams that rolls past all the Royal palaces for a glimpse of the most exclusive parts of the city.
Then it was back to the Cathedral for a look around. Despite looking large and imposing the inside of the cathedral is very light, with lots of it being made up of glass. Sadly, as it was a Monday and this is continental Europe, most of the exhibits inside the cathedral were closed, including the crypt which supposedly includes some original Roman remains.
After a quick pit stop at the central station I made my way back following some of the cartoons and murals painted on the buildings in the city centre back to the Gare du Midi and the Eurostar home.
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As I walked back to the tramstop a massive electric storm raged overhead. Within seconds of getting to the stop and under some shelter the skies opened with one of the most spectacular downpours I have ever seen. Think of one of those spectacular cloud bursts that last only about a minute before calming down, except this kept it up for almost 30 minutes!
After avoiding a drenching I left the tramstop (I wasn't intending on catching a tram, but I had seen on my way out that it had a large shelter!) and walked to the Römer, the rebuilt medieval market square (flattened by the Americans - Unlike Cologne which the Brits flattened!) and a look around the Roman remains and the outside of the Cathedral.
As I got back to the hotel the clouds decided again that they we feeling full!
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From there it is a short walk past the Archaeological Gardens, some of the remains of an Roman encampment, to the cathedral. The cathedral itself is quite plain, not helped by the fact that most of it is covered in scaffolding. Despite my guidebook, written in 2002 claiming that the repairs were almost complete and that the tower would reopen (as would being able to climb to the top) later that summer!
After looking around the Cathedral I decided to chance the Main Tower again, this time it was open and, unlike the Cathedral which would have been over 300 steps, took the lift to the roof. The views over the whole of the city are stunning, and the contrasts between the modern high rise and the ancient city are clear. Despite all the damage that was inflicted on the city during the war, and subsequently as the financial capital of mainland Europe, there are still a large number of older buildings and original streets still around, along with a few small smatterings of the old city walls.
Leaving Main Tower I wandered back through the Römer and down to what gives Frankfurt am Main part of its name, the Main. The river runs right behind the historic old square and Cathedral. Regular boats tour up and down the river, so I took advantage of one to get a better view of the city and to take the weight of my feet.
From the river you can see why the towers that make up Frankfurt have given it the nickname Mainhatten. Thankfully, most of them are quite elegant so it's not too harsh on the landscape. The boat cruise lasted just over the hour after which I decided to quickly stop for a bite to eat before heading on.
The next stop was the Museum Judengasse. Located on the ground floor of the council offices this museum is built over the remains of Frankfurt's Jewish Ghetto, destroyed during W.W.II. This really interesting museum tells the history of the Jews in Frankfurt, their persecution (not just in the recent past but going back over hundreds of years), their culture and in the ruins details on daily life in the Ghetto. In addition a small exhibition at the end explains how the community has attempted to rebuild itself since 1945.
Behind the museum is the old Jewish Cemetery and on the wall surrounding it 10,000 blocks. Each block has a name on it, a date of birth, and the date an location where they died. They represent the Jewish population of Frankfurt that died between 1939 and 1945 and can't help but move you.
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The town was originally completely separate from the city that has now grown to envelope it, but it still remains a very picturesque and beautiful town with many old buildings and a pleasant riverside walk.
Leaving Höchst by tram I came back into the centre of Frankfurt and then out to the Palm garden (Palmgarten), which is Frankfurt's main lung, a large green space almost in the middle of the city.
After several hours walking around the gardens and glasshouses and relaxing in the sun it was time to get back to the station and pick up my luggage, and then off to the Airport.
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Wednesday's itinerary was the Ring of Kerry, a 100+mile circle round the county taking in some of the most stunning scenery in the country. The tour itself is very well presented with the driver supplying an frequent commentary to the ride.
The first stop was Killarney. The town itself is not massively pretty and there is not a lot there, apart from the retail park which is located at the end of the bus station. However, just outside of Killarney the road rises towards the mountains and from a view point you can look down over the picturesque lakes of Killarney.
The next stop was the Kerry bog village, an open-air museum giving you an idea about how people involved in the peat industry lived in the past.
The coach then ran along side the coast on the opposite side of the Dingle bay from the Dingle Peninsular before pulling into the town of Waterville. The town's main claim to fame is that Charlie Chaplin regularly visited.
After reaching the highest point above Sneem the tour turns back inland and headed towards the town of Kenmare where we stopped for dinner. The town itself is very pretty and has quite a lot of history, just out the back of the town is an ancient stone circle.
After a stop in Kenmare we headed back towards Cork on the coach, finally arriving just before 10pm.
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The castle does not have that much on display inside, and what there is is obscured by the sheer number of people looking round making it feel very cramped, and on the narrow spiral staircases quite dangerous. From the top of the castle there are views over the surrounding areas.
After the castle we moved on across the Burran, a bizarre almost non-Earth like plane with strange rocks and very few living things growing across it. The Burran is littered with burial sites and the tour took a short stop at the Poulnabrone Dolmen.
After the Burran we headed over to the coast and the impressive Cliffs of Moher. These dark and precipitous cliffs mark the end of Europe, beyond lies the Atlantic and then America. Just as the left the Cliffs the sky decided to open, so the dinner stop in Lahinch was just that, dinner. There was no way anyone could have seen more!
From there the coach headed back towards Cork stopping briefly in Limerick and finally arriving back in Cork at just before 10.
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With my plans for the afternoon now abandoned I at least didn't have to worry about being to early to check in, so I walked from Busáras (the bus station) to the hotel. In hindsight I should have caught the bus because it was about 45 minutes walk, and almost the whole way up hill!!
After checking into the hotel and dropping my stuff off, I caught the bus back into town and caught the DART out to Howth. Howth forms a peninsula just above Dublin and from the summit of the peninsula there are spectacular views over the city and down the East coast of Ireland. After wandering around Howth for a while I caught the bus back into Dublin and grabbed a bite to eat before retreating to a not particularly comfortable but welcome bed!
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After the Jail I got the bus back into town and the DART out to Dalkey. Located almost due south of the Howth Peninsular the town is most famous for the number of castles it had. Until the building of Dún Laoghaire harbour slightly closer into Dublin the town was the main port for Dublin and so had to have protection for goods being off loaded and the main street at one point boasted 7 castles. Today only two remain, and only one of those is open to look around.
Goat castle contains an exhibition on the rise, and subsequent decline of Dalkey from a powerful port town to a quiet suburb of Dublin. The castle also offers good views from it's roof over the town and harbour.
From Dalkey I got the DART back into Dublin and caught the bus up through Phoenix Park to the Jameson's distillery, just to check that the tour was still as good as it had been when I visited in 2001, and it was!!
After a walk along the side of the Liffey I wandered through Temple Bar and had dinner before taking advantage of the late opening at the Guinness Storehouse to reassess it against my 2001 visit. It's still as good as it was and the Guinness in the Gravity bar at the top is still good. As it was so late I was able to watch sunset (if there hadn't been so much cloud it might even have been impressive!)
After finishing my free pint I wandered back into the city centre and got the bus back to the hotel.
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By the time I arrived in Kilkenny at half two the summer had decided to put another appearance in so, after checking in at the hotel, I wandered around town for a bit before catching the open top bus tour of the city.
The tour itself was interesting, but very short at less than 30 minutes which for €7 was slightly expensive!
After the bus tour I popped into an Internet cafe to check my e-mail (as I was trying to plan my visit with friends to Munich at the same time!) and have a cup of coffee.
After a short time surfing I went for a wander down the river bank along side the side of the castle and its grounds before coming back through the castles grounds and back to the hotel.
After a pleasant curry for dinner I had a wander round the city in the dusk before going back to the hotel and one of the most comfortable beds, and probably one of the best nights sleep I have ever encountered.
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After a stop of coffee I joined the city walking tour. The well presented tour had lots of background information, not just on Kilkenny but on the whole of Irish history.
After a short pause for lunch I visited St Canices Cathedral and tower. The cathedral itself its quite interesting, but just outside is one of the original round towers of Ireland which you can climb to get good views of the city from. The climb however is up increasingly steep ladders that, by the top, even I wasn't liking and I make a habit of going up towers needlessly (See any other trip for confirmation!!)
Next to the Cathedral is the very plane and simple St Canices Chapel which is a good place to recover your composure and make solemn promises never to climb towers that use ladders ever again!!
Next stop was the Rothe House, one of the oldest buildings in the city. The house is an original Tudor town house that was built for and by the Rothe family. A 20 minute video presentation on the house and the key exhibitions gives about as much information as the displays themselves and after the video the rest of the house is a little disappointing.
The Butler Gallery of Contemporary art is a free exhibition located in one wing of the castle. It displays contemporary art. It's worth depends on your view of contemporary art - I found it a pointless waste of space and money, but I dislike contemporary art - others may disagree.
After that it was time for my tour of the castle (or - as I am a Butler myself, but probably not related to the original owner - the families country residence as I called it) which was very well presented and took you over most of the property.
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First stop, just behind the tourist information centre, and in the same building, was the Waterford Treasures exhibition. This very well presented exhibition tells the history of Waterford and it's role in Irish history. With the amount of information on display and the further information available by using the free audio guide you could easily spend a whole day here.
After the exhibition I joined the walking tour of Waterford. The exceptionally well presented and very funny tour gives a further insight into the history of the city and takes you around the main sights.
The tour finishes at Reginalds Tower so I took the opportunity to visit it. The exhibition inside gives background to the tower and the role it played within the city walls. The top of the tower is currently inaccessible so you can't get, what would be good views of the city.
After a further wander around the city it was time to get the coach back into Cork.
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Alderney is a very small island, with very little in the way of transport, so the only way to get from the airport to the hotel is either by taxi or by foot. Seeing that the total walking time from the airport to the hotel was 8 minutes I decided to walk.
After checking in I wandered down into St Anne's - the Island capital and the only town on the island. From there it's a five minute walk down the hill to Bray, the harbour.
After spending a little time sitting relaxing on the beach I wandered back to the hotel and then out onto the cliff path for an hour or so before heading back into town for dinner, just as the sun was setting.
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I then spent a couple of hours just gently meandering around the cliff path round the outside of the airfield which occupies a large part of the western end of the island.
At 2pm I caught the guided bus tour which went round to some of the most impressive parts of the island. The tour is conducted by the driver who gives an informative and well presented history and guide to the island (even if he is Jerseyman!)
After the bus tour I hired a bike for the rest of the afternoon and revisited many of the sights that were pointed out on the bus tour.
By about 8pm the light was fading and I was knackered so I parked the bike back at the guesthouse and went for dinner.
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The museum has a small and eclectic collection of artefacts related to the island, from flints and stones used by the very first settlers to the island up to the modern day, with - unsurprisingly, a large collection of items relating to the war.
The museum tells the history of the island including the murky period during WWII when it was evacuated of all the inhabitants and turned into the only concentration camp in the British Isles. Records show that definitely 1000 and maybe as many as 3000+ people died on the island during the war either as slave workers or from the conditions they were forced to live in.
After the museum I wandered back out onto the cliffs, in a very eerie mist, to the site of the Sylt concentration camp.
After wandering back into town I went down to Bray and caught the only train that runs in the whole of the Channel Islands. The former goods line from the quarry to the harbour has been reopened by a group of railway enthusiasts who run a service backwards and forwards using an old London Underground train.
It's not very quick and there are only 3 trains a day at the weekend in July and August, but it's more than any of the other islands can muster!
At the end of the line at Mannez Quarry is one of the lighthouses of the island and when the railway is running tours of the lighthouse take place. The tours show you the inside of the lighthouse and give a background to the history and workings of not only the Alderney lighthouse by lighthouses in general.
After looking around the Lighthouse and the surrounding area I got the last train of the day back to Bray.
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I caught the bus back into St Peter Port and was astounded to see both Herm and Sark. Last year they were not visible, this year you could almost make out people walking on Herm!
Then it was time to go back to the airport and catch my flight out to Alderney.
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After checking in, and waiting a couple of hours for the rain to stop, I ventured back out and caught the bus down to Jerbourg and walked down the cliffs and out to St Martins Point, the most South Easterly part of the island. I then followed the cliff path back along the East coast of the island taking a detour up to Doyles monument and stopping for a short break at Fermain Bay before arriving back in St Peter Port about 3 hours after leaving.
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Actual Plan on Tuesday: Sandals, Beach Towel, Forget Suntan Cream and get burnt, before getting soaked in a massive downpour whilst waiting for the late ferry back, spend evening drying book out!
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After coming back into town and having a spot of lunch I headed off to Pleinmont and the Pleinmont observation tower. It is one of the few German observation towers that are open to the public (Wednesday only!) There is lots of information inside on the construction and use of the towers and the views from the roof are well worth the dodgy final climb up a short ladder and a large step back over the open cover you have just emerged from!
After leaving the tower I walked down the cliff path to Pezeries Point and the aptly named Fort Pezeries. All that remains of the fort is a small amount of retaining wall and one of the magazine stores.
After walking back to the bus stop at Pleinmont I decided to get the bus the long way back into town, via the North of the Island. In the end I was very glad I did as we went through one of the most spectacular storms I have ever seen. One minute the sky was clear, then full of very dark clouds and then from nowhere the wind whipped up and massive hail stones started falling. It was barely 5 seconds from the storm starting to the bus reaching the bus stop, but in that time the person waiting was absolutely soaked!
Thankfully, by the time I got back to St Peter Port the rain had stopped.
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Then it was time to collect my luggage and head home.
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After a 4 hour drive along the south coast from the Eastern end of West Sussex to the Western end of Dorset, and Hampshire in between, we finally arrived in Weymouth and checked into the hotel.
We then went round our friends house and spent the rest of the evening eating, drinking and watching videos!
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After a trip into Dorchester which resulted in spending quite a lot in a bookshop and getting wet on a couple of occasions we gave up, went back to our friends house and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening drinking, eating and watching videos!
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First stop was Corfe and its castle. Once a grand and mighty castle which had withstood attack for centuries, the castle was reduced to ruin on the orders of Oliver Cromwell during the Civil War. Since then the remains have been left unchanged. They now offer a spectacular view over the Isle of Purbeck and the quite town of Corfe.
After Corfe we headed on to the coast and the picturesque and other world like resort of Swanage. A town that appears to be stuck firmly in the past, and all the better for it!
After a couple of hours in Swanage it was time to head back to Weymouth and then back home.
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As it was Munich the first stop was a Brauhaus about ¼ mile from the centre of town. After a quick refreshment break there we headed back to the centre of town and the Frauenkirche. The vast onion domed towers of the church are one of the most visible symbols of the city and after looking inside the church we took the opportunity of taking the lift to the top of the tower to get views out over the whole of the city and beyond (not that we could see that far as the weather wasn't particularly great)
From there it was a short walk to the most famous of all the beer kellers in Munich the Hofbrauhaus where we spent the rest of the evening!!
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Dachau itself is a pretty and small town. It should have remained just that, a pretty suburb of Munich, except for the Concentration camp which was built on it's outskirts.
Today the site of the camp has been reopened as a visitors centre. The site is free to look around, though the audio guides that help you to interpret the site cost about €3.
Despite the number of visitors to the site an eerie silence still hangs over a place where over 30,000 people died and many tens of thousands more were held before being sent to their deaths in other camps.
At the back of the site is one of the most distressing places in the whole camp the Crematorium which also includes the gas chamber marked as "Shower"
The site also includes a large museum (KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau) charting the history of the concentration camp system and the crimes that were committed within their walls.
After visiting the museum I caught the bus back into town and had a look around the pretty town centre which is in such a contrast to the bleak foreboding of the camp just 3 miles outside that you can barely believe they both exist in reality.
I then headed back to the station and back into Munich for a spot to eat before heading to bed.
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About 60 miles South West of Munich lies Füssen. The town lies at the end of the railway line, hemmed in by the Alps and just a few short miles from the Austrian border. Füssen itself is a very pretty town, but the main reason people come here is to catch the bus the 3 kilometers to the even more picturesque village of Hohenschwangau.
Hohenschwangau lies at the foot of the Alps, against a large Alpine lake and this would itself be able to draw in quite a large crowd. The fact the (Mad) King Ludwig decided to build his most spectacular castle Schloß Neuschwanstein on the side of the hill has secured the villages spot on the tourist trail.
The castle is the epitome of the "Fairy Tale" castle. In fact it is the Fairy Tale castle as Disney modeled their castle on Neuschwanstein.
If that wasn't enough there is another equally impressive castle just the other side of the village Schloß Hohenschwangau - Ludwig's childhood home.
The whole of the village exists these days to serve the massive crowds of tourists that even on a Sunday at the beginning of October are feet deep in places!
First stop is the ticket booth where you purchase your guided tours of the castles. You can choose to do just one of the castles, or like we did opt to do both which means you have a 35 minute tour of Schloß Hohenschwangau and then 2 hours after the tour at Schloß Hohenschwangau your tour at Schloß Neuschwanstein starts.
Both castles are very impressive and well worth looking around. Though the walk from the village to Schloß Neuschwanstein is lung busting and leg aching. It feels like you are climbing half way up the side of an Alp, and to some extent you are!
After visiting the two castles we headed back to the bus stop to get the bus back to the train station. Unfortunately so had about 100 other people, and as the buses were not that big we ended up walking the 3KM back to Füssen which meant that we actually saw some spectacular views which we wouldn't otherwise have got!
After waiting a short while for the train and changing once we finally got back to Munich, had a bite to eat and all fell into bed, exhausted.
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As it was tower you can climb it meant that of course, I had to climb it. From the top the views of the centre of Munich are as good as those from the top of the Frauenkirche, except from here you can see down into the Marienplatz.
After descending from the tower and watching the 11 O'clock performance of the clock on the front of the Town Hall (Nothing on the Astronomical clock in Prague!) we headed over to one of the largest buildings in the city - The Residence - The former home of the Royal family of Bavaria.
The site is enormous and would take several days to visit the whole of. Instead we just visited the exhibition on the treasures and other valuables of the collection including lots of gold and jewels.
From there we just had time to pop out to the Olympic park and climb up (or rather ascend in a speedy lift) another tower, this time the main tower at the Olympic stadium from where you can get stunning views of the Olympic Park, the City, the Alps and the next door BMW works!
After that it was time to go back to the main station, collect our luggage and head back to the airport for the plane home.
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Next stop on the walking tour is the Historisches Museum, again an interesting building, because it is built around the remains of the old city walls. This is another eclectic collection with lots of royal items, as well as more modern items.
From there it was a short walk around the remainder of the walking route before heading back to the hotel.
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It's a 45 minute train ride down the S-Bhan from Hanover. The town itself is very pretty, but apart from the architecture, one museum, & a couple of churches, which were closed, there is not much else to the town (at least not on a cloudy Saturday morning in November!!) the architecture is best seen following the marked trail (which is, of course, marked out with rats painted on to the pavement.
The walk itself takes about 2 hours, and after that I was pretty well done with Hameln. I walked back to the station & caught the train back into Hanover.
After a quick stop for a spot of lunch in the Hauptbahnhof, I went on to the second town of the day Celle. The town is about 50k north of Hanover and is again famed or it's architecture.
The town is arranged around the imposing castle (Schloß Celle) which I was sadly got to just to late to go on the guided tour (the only way you are allowed to see the inside of the castle!
Instead I made do with the town itself, which again has a lot of architecture, but not much else. There is a museum in the town, and you can get joint entry to this and the castle, but again I was running out of time before the museum shut, so I didn't go in.
After looking round the town for a while I walked back to the station and caught the train back to Hanover & dinner.
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The plan was to go out to Braunschweig (Brunswick) about 60k from Hanover. I got there no problem, however at this point the normally reliable & dependable German transport system let me down.
The local transport in Braunschweig makes the UK's systems look the model of reliability, dependability & integration. The tram that goes to the centre of town leaves exactly 5 minutes before the train from Hanover arrives!!!
After negotiating the public transport to the city centre I got there only to find out that most of it is shut on a Sunday in autumn!! The only things that weren't shut were the churches, and they all had services on!
After spending about 90 minutes wandering round what on the face of it is an architecturally beautiful city (until you remember that it has all been completely rebuilt since it was destroyed in WWII) I waited another age for a tram back to the Hauptbahnhof & on to plan B.
Plan B involved going to Hildesheim, so I got the InterCity train which, thankfully, runs between Braunschweig & Hildesheim.
I got to Hildesheim and walked the 700m or so into the heart of the old town. Unfortunately (and I am sure you can already guess what happened) most of the city was closed because it was a Sunday!
Thankfully the Dom (cathedral) was open, along with the cloister which houses a climbing rose which is over 1000 years old!
After having all my plans for Hildesheim ruined as well I walked back to the Hauptbahnhof & caught the train back to Hanover.
As there was still a little time left before sunset, I decided to go out to the Herrenhaüser Garten a set of large formal gardens about 3Km from the city centre and spent a relaxing 45 minutes in there before they closed then I headed back to the hotel.
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First stop was the small park behind the Rathaus. The views of the town hall from the back with a picturesque lake in front are excellent & on a clear & crisp November morning with barely a cloud in the sky they made for some beautiful photos.
From there it's a short tram ride out past the zoo to another of the city's fabulous parks the "Stadtpark" or City Park. Within a few metres into this park you can completely forget you are still in the city centre. The area is very heavily wooded, and even in late autumn, when there is barely a leaf on the trees, they still act as a buffer to the noise.
After strolling through the park for a while I headed back to the Herrenhaüser Garten and spent a couple of hours walking in them. The approach to the park is attractive itself, a 2.5K walk down a dead straight avenue lined on each side by trees.
Then it was time to head back into town, catch the train to the airport & the flight home.
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After a beautiful ride up the side, on what must be one of the steepest and most beautiful metro rides in the world, I reached Voksenkollen and walked the remaining 15 minutes up to the tower. The climb, despite being very up hill, is well worth it, if only because it fills your lungs with lots of clean mountain air!
From the top of the tower you have spectacular views over the whole of the Oslo Fjord & surrounding area right over to the Swedish border. The only downside in the middle of winter is that the sun never rises high enough not to obscure the view of Oslo itself!
After walking back down to the metro station, I caught the train on the one last stop to the end (and top) of the line, at over 550m above the level of the fjord. The views from here are not as all round as those from the top of the TV Tower, but of the fjord are less obstructed (as there is no glass in the way!)
I caught the train back almost into the city centre & then caught the tram round to the Akershus fortress. It is in daylight as impressive as it is during the night.
After spending a little time wandering around the grounds, and by pure chance catching the changing of the guards, I went to the Norwegian Resistance Museum.
The museum is, soberingly, located in the same building that the Gestapo used to torture people in during the occupation. In the area in front is the memorial to those who were executed on that very spot. The museum tells the story of the occupation & resistance movement within Norway during WWII.
After spending a little longer in the fortress, and wandering around the grounds I headed out of the city centre to one of the major parks in Oslo, Vigeland Park. Despite the darkness the park (which is open 24 hours a day) is very tranquil & beautiful.
I had intended, after leaving the park to catch the tram back to the hotel, drop my stuff off & then go for dinner, unfortunately on arrival at the hotel I found it had been evacuated because of a fire alarm, so instead I walked down the main street to the Royal Palace & had dinner at that end of town before heading back to a now re-occupied hotel & my bed.
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Next-door to the Folk museum is the Viking ship museum. This houses the remains of 3 Viking ships which were used as burial ships and have subsequently been uncovered in archaeological digs. Two are in very good condition with the third just being the very bottom.
A short walk from the Viking ship museum are 3 further museums dedicated to ships & the sea.
The Fram museum tells the history of its key exhibit, the ship Fram, the ship that has travelled the furthest North & South on expeditions to both the North & South poles.
The Kon-Tiki Museum tells the story of Thor Heyerdahl's famous journeys. The original Kon-Tiki & Ra II ships are the key exhibits.
The Maritime museum tells the story of sea-faring and the people of Norway from the Vikings to the modern super tankers & cruise ships.
After spending almost the whole day on the Island it suddenly dawned (or more correctly dusked) on me that Tomorrow was the shortest day of the year, and that I had witnessed both the sunrise and set of the day from Bygdøy. With that thought and the chill of an early night I headed back into the city through the evening rush hour and towards a warm dinner!
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The museum tells the history of skiing in all its forms (cross-country, downhill, jump) and concludes with a lift and 100 step climb to the top of the ski jump for views over the fjord and to see what a ski jumper would see before they took off. Just below the museum is the opportunity to experience what it actually feels like on the ski-simulator.
After slipping and sliding my way back down the hill to the metro stop I caught the train back towards town and then the tram back out to Vigeland Park, this time in the daylight! The statues look almost as bizarre in daylight as they do in darkness!
As I had done Vigeland Park in the daylight I also decided that I would have another look at the Royal Palace as well.
After a quick comfort break and a diversion to the tourist information centre to pick up a 24hour Oslo pass I got the metro out to the Botanical gardens. As it was so close to Christmas most of the site was shut with the exception of the zoological museum.
This is an interesting museum that mostly focuses on the natural fauna of Norway, but also has a small amount on the rest of the world.
From there I wandered over to the Reptile museum which is housed on the 4th floor of an office block almost in the centre of town. As with all reptile displays all the creatures were asleep and hiding.
Just before heading back to the hotel I took a short stop at the Cathedral. Although it is much smaller than it's counterparts in the rest of Europe, what it doesn't have in size it makes up for in decoration. The inside of the cathedral is warm and inviting (useful in a city where the winters can be very long and cold!) The ceiling is completely painted in various colours and religious images and the compact interior helps make it look very light, despite the Dark wood finish to everything.
After a brief stop in the hotel I headed back out again to the edge of Vigeland Park and to the Oslo City Museum (Oslo Bymuseet)
The museum is well laid out and has some of the information translated into English. It deals with the history of Oslo/Christiania (as it was called from 1624 until 1925!) from the earliest settlements in around 1000 up to modern day Oslo.
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From there it was a short tram ride round to the historical museum for a look around.
The museum specialises in Norwegian history (naturally) and also has a collection of exhibits on Africa & South-East Asia.
Then it was back to the station to pick up my baggage & off to the airport.
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Even in the costly bar at the airport a half liter cost only £1.20!! In the end we only had to wait about 15 minutes for the cab so we did end up rushing the beer slightly.
The hotel was in the middle of the old town, just opposite the opera house and across a nice park from the Freedom Monument and the Russian Orthodox Cathedral.
After getting all our luggage sorted and the rooms occupied (including discovering the interesting toilet arrangements!) we wandered into the rest of the old town.
We had a walk though some of the old squares and past St Andrew's Church, past the 'House of the Blackheads' to the Townhall and the riverside. By this time we were all feeling slightly hungry so we decided to go for dinner in a Latvian Pizza Chain!
After a very filling and full (and cheap) meal we all headed back to the hotel for a short drink in the bar and then bed.
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Darzini halt is identifiable by being the first one completely in the woods since leaving Riga. On this basis they feel that it's not important to offer such luxuries as station signs so with some trepidation in case we were alighting at the wrong stop we got off the train.
Located in the woods, about 1 mile from Darzini is a memorial. The memorial is located on the site of Salaspils concentration camp. Here, during the Nazi occupation over 10,000 people died and 10,000's more were kept until they could be dispatched to the death camps to the south in Poland. Today all that remains is an empty clearing and monuments and a strange feeling loss. When I visited Dachau it was on a warm autumn afternoon with lots of other people around. At Salaspils it was snowing heavily with biting winds and the only people around were the 6 of us. I think I came closer to starting to understanding the suffering that people went through, and that was with the benefit of a thick coat, and warm hat, gloves and scarf.
The site is well worth visiting, especially during the winter, to realise what people were put through, and not that long ago. Getting to the site should be easy, but the "good signage" that the guide book boasted has corroded and rotted in the weather and only empty frames now stand giving no information.
After visiting the site and coming back into Riga we stopped for a long lunch to warm up, before heading off into a clear late afternoon for a wander around the centre of Riga and down to the completely frozen river.
We walked alongside the river until we reached the castle, by which point most of the light was gone. We then walked back towards the hotel going past the Cathedral.
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One of the must see sights of the city, according to the guide book, is St Peters Church where you can get the lift up to the top of the tower for stunning views. Unfortunately the lift is currently out of order (and at the time of visiting had been for nearly a year!)
The church itself is quite interesting with displays of artwork also dotted around the aisles.
The next stop, after a lot of wandering around looking at the outsides of lots of interesting buildings, was the Cathedral.
This is an impressive building with a massive space inside, which given the lack of light in February in Northern Europe and the dark stone used is still very light and airy.
After the Cathedral we finished off our walking tour with a spot of lunch before moving onto the Russian Orthodox Cathedral.
The building is spectacular both on the outside and the inside with almost every wall covered with icons and decorations and massive candle stands dotted liberally around the place.
The final stop for the afternoon was the TV tower. Located on an island in the middle of the river it dominated the landscape (in it's full red and yellow colouring!) You can get the express lift that goes up the curved legs to the viewing platforms at the top of the tower for stunning views over the whole of the city and off towards the Baltic. Made even more spectacular by the fact that a river, wider than the Thames, Main, Danube, Rhine or any other that I have see on my trips to Europe was totally frozen solid, just a few miles from the sea!
From the TV tower we walked back into town and to a well deserved big meal and drink.
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After spending several hours in the park we caught the bus back into Riga for a late lunch and a drink before collecting our bags and heading for the airport.
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I walked the short distance from the station to my hotel & checked-in, just in time to avoid the spectacular downpour that started as I stepped inside the hotel!
Once the rain had stopped (or so I thought) I left the hotel to have a wander around the city centre.
I wandered up to the castle, only to find that it's not floodlit at night. I carried on wandering and eventually found myself walking down to Cardiff bay just as the rain returned (accompanied by a strong, biting & rain lashing wind)
By the time I actually got to Cardiff Bay station I was soaked and decided to get the train back, unfortunately the next train wasn't for another 50 minutes, so I got the bus back to the city centre and then went back to the hotel to dry off.
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Despite that the site does have 2 exhibitions inside different towers. One tells the history of the site and the other the history of the inhabitation of Wales.
After leaving the castle I walked back to the station & caught the train back to Cardiff where I changed and caught another train out to Taffs Well.
From Taffs Well it's a 30 minute, uphill, walk to Castle Coch.
The castle was originally built by the Norman's but was abandoned in the 14th Century and remained ruins until it was restored & rebuilt. The outside is fairy-tale Norman castle, but inside it's all Victorian fantasy!
After spending some time looking around the castle I walked back to Taffs Well station to catch the train back to Cardiff. At Queen Street station I caught the train down to Cardiff Bay and the went for a wander around the newly rejuvenated dock areas that have been transformed from the once prosperous, the run-down & deprived docks into one of the most desirable areas to live in in the whole of Wales.
With a sudden & tremendous downpour striking I went into the Cardiff Bay visitors centre. The centre gives a background to the rejuvenation of the area along with a scale model of the whole area.
After the end of the rain I walked over to one of the old Victorian dock company buildings which now houses the Welsh Assembly education centre. The centre is well presented & gives a background to how devolved power operates in Wales.
From there I walked down to the waterside just in time to get on a boat tour of the bay including going alongside the barrage that helps to make the harbor. With the sun starting to set I caught the train back into the city centre & then back out to Caerphilly. I had a long wander around the outside of the castle which is as spectacular floodlit at night as it is during the day.
Then it was time to get the train back to Cardiff and dinner!
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The area was abandoned after the Romans left and it wasn't until the Norman's in the 11th Century that the site was used again. The remains of the old Norman keep are one of the main attractions
The site went through various extensions and additions over the years but the main changes were made by the Marquis of Bute and William Burges (them of Castle Coch fame) who completely refurbished the inside of the main areas of the castle.
The grounds and Norman Keep are explorable, but the inside of the main part of the castle is only viewable on a guided tour. The tours are well worth the extra small expense as they are well presented and informative.
After the castle I walked the short distance to the National Museum and Gallery of Wales.
There are lots of exhibitions and artifacts. You could very easily spend a couple of days exploring all the exhibits. One of the main ones is a gallery devoted to the history of the planet and explains the last 700,000,000 years (or so) through what has happened to the land-mass that is now Wales.
After the National Museum, I caught the bus back out to Cardiff Bay and a completely different type of museum "Techniquest" explains science through hands-on exhibits. Although it's a bit Kiddyish it is very interesting.
From the bay I caught the waterbus across the harbor to Penarth and the barrage.
After spending a short while wandering around this "quaint" Victorian seaside town I caught the bus back to Cardiff Bay for dinner (sadly the last few waterbusses had to be canceled due to very choppy waters.)
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The fort was built during the 19th century, but is now being used as a caravan park and restaurant!
I wandered back to the station and got the train back into town where I had a pleasent dinner befor going back out to the airport to meet my friends who were coming in on a later flight than me.
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We stopped at the Rundtårn (round tower) which is a bizarre tower in which a spiral ramp takes you up the inside of the building. About halfway up was an exhibition of modern art. Towards the top the ramp ends and its onto spiral stairs for the final ascent to the viewing platform at the top which offers excellent views over the centre of the old town.
From the Rundtårn we walked the short distance onto the metro station and caught the metro out to Christianshavn.
Towards the centre of Christianshavn is the Vor Frelsers Kirke. The church is stunning inside and outside. Its defining feature is its tower (sadly closed when we visited) The stairs to the top start off inside the tower, but the last 150 or so wind around the outside of the spire!
After looking around the church we wandered over to the "free state" of Christiana. Created in 1971 when a group of young and homeless people started squatting in a dissused millitary barracks complex, the area is internationaly known as an area which has developed an more egalitarian and environmently friendly attitude than anywhere else.
After spending some time walking round Christiana we walked back to the metro station and made our way over to one of Copenhagens other well known sites - the Carlsberg factory.
The visitors centre was partly closed for refurbishment, but the important part of the tour, the free tasting, was still open.
A little later on (and slightly the worse for wear after trying several different types of brew) we walked back to the train station.
As it was a little early to have dinner, and starting to get a little cold, we decided to waste a bit of time having a play on the Copennhagen metro which has only recently opened and is completely computer controlled so that you can sit right at the very front of the train.
Once we had wasted a little time we headed back into the centre of town in search of food.
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We walked to the station to get the train out to the top of Zealand (the name of the island that Copenhagen is on)
Helsingør (or Elsinore as it is known in English) is the location of the castle said to have inspired William Shakespeare to write Hamlet.
The castle is very interesting to look round and only hypes the Hamlet association up in one small exhibition at the start of the royal appartments.
We also looked around the chapple and the casements under the building.
After stopping for a quick coffee we went for a wander around the centre of the town and then stopped for a very late lunch/early dinner, befor stopping for a couple of drinks in a local bar befor heading back to the station and a train back to Copenhagen.
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More famous for its annual music festival, the town itself is very pretty and has several museums and attractions. Sadly this being Monday in continental Europe all bar the Viking ship museum were closed.
The museum tells the story of five Viking ships discovered in the fjord, their last role befor being forgotten was as a barradge across one of the navigable channels.
Along with the remains of the ships, reconstructions and background information, the museum also explanes a bit about Viking life at the time.
From the museum we wandered back to the centre of town stopping off to look at the impressive cathedral and for a bite to eat.
We caught the train back to the central station and then brought some more tickets, this time to another country.
Just beyond Copenhagen airport is the start of one of Europes most impressive structures, a road and rail bridge that links Copenhagen, Denmark with Malmö, Sweden. The trains only take 35 minutes to get from the centre of Copenhagen to the centre of Malmö.
Malmö is a very nice city with several pretty squares, though its castle is not as good as its Danish counterparts.
After spending a couple of hours wandering around Malmö's streets we popped for a drink and a bite to eat befor getting on the train and travelling back to Denmark.
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The first stop was at Christiansborg Slot, the former Royal palace.
Burnt to the ground twice and rebuilt into three different styles over the last 800 years, the site has left it's history in it's foundations which can be walked around to see the various former buildings.
After spending almost 2 hours submerged beneath the castle we decided to stop for a short lunch break befor heading off to walk across more of the city.
The next stop was at the impressive domed Marmorkirken (Memorial church). From there we walked the short distance to the Amailenborg Slot, the current residence for the Danish royal family.
From there it was a short walk to the Kastellet (citadel) fortress. Still used as barracks by the army there is not much to see but the building and earthworks that surround it are quite impressive, and from the ramparts you get a good view of the mermaid statue that Copenhagen is famous for (though I am not sure why as it is very small and in the middle of nowhere!)
We then walked back towards the city centre and into the grounds of Rosenborg Slot. Another royal residence, this one houses the crown jewels.
After walking through the park we carried on for two more blocks to the thee man made lakes at the Western edge of the city.
By now the rain was starting to fall quite heavily so we walked back quickly to the hotel to dry off befor heading out for dinner.
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Not to be outdone I instead had my fill in the first-class lounge!
The sleeper pulled out of Paddington on time at ten-to-midnight with the gentle roll of the trains motion (and two cans of Stella) letting me drift off to sleep quickly.
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After having got back to sleep I re-awoke just before 7:15 so I decided to get up and open the blind on a grey and wet Cornish morning. 20 minutes later, and with my breakfast in front of me the clouds started to clear.
By the time we arrived (20 minutes early) into Penzance the dark-clouds had all gone and the sun was fighting its way through the remaining low cloud.
I popped by the hotel to drop off my bag before heading back to the bus station to start sightseeing.
First stop of the morning was Porthcurno bay. Today a picturesque and quiet bay on the way down to Lands End, but at one time possibly the most important place on the planet (at least to the British Empire) for here, in a little hut the telegraph cables that linked and ran an Empire came ashore.
Even today with modern satellite technology the cables still come ashore here, but all the work of Porthcurno is now done elsewhere. The original buildings, and the tunnels dug to keep the service going during W.W.II, now form the Porthcurno museum of submarine telegraphy. The museum tells the story of underground telegraphy along with the history of Porthcurno. A special exhibition also explains the role that Brunels 'Great Eastern' played in the laying of the first successful transatlantic cable.
On the cliffs above Porthcurno is the Minack theatre. Built in the late 1930's (and then rebuilt after the war because of damage caused by turning the headland into a gun emplacement) the theatre is a unique sight. The stage is on the edge of the cliff with a 200ft drop beneath! The site includes a small museum to the lady who built it, Rowena Cade.
After looking around Minack and Porthcurno, I got back on the bus and continued on to its final destination at the literal 'end of the route' - Lands End. The most Westerly part of the mainland (though not the most Southerly - that accolade lies with Lizard head the other side of Penzance.) The site is not only the end of the country but also a slightly tacky theme park. In addition to the end of the country there are also several 'attractions' to keep you occupied (and out of any sudden showers that may decide to strike!)
After spending about 4 hours at the site (and missing 2 showers!) I caught the bus back into Penzance. From there I caught another bus out to Mousehole (pronounced Mousel) where I had a wander around this pretty fishing village before catching the bus back to Penzance, dinner, and a bed that didn't rock you awake!
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Today the site has reopened as a museum to mining in Cornwall. You can wander over large sections of the site seeing how miners spent their days. The mines that closed in 1990 stretched more than 1.5KM out to see, and when the pumps were turned off started to fill with water. However, some 18th century mines have been rediscovered and one of the highlights of the museum is a short tour around a small part.
In the end I spent almost three hours wandering around the site, and I didn't see everything, but by then my feet were hurting. I caught the bus back to Penzance and then another three miles along the coast to Mazarion. From here you can normally reach the castle and monastery on St Michael's Mount, a small island just off shore connected by a causeway at low tide and a boat at other times. Unfortunately, due to the high winds the National Trust, who run the site, had closed it!
Instead I caught the bus back towards Penzance and changed onto another heading to St Ives.
The town is very pretty with stunning views around the bays from the top of the very steep town. After spending some time taking in the sights of the town I walked down to Tate St Ives.
The building it is in is architecturally stunning with lots of space created and large gallery areas. Unfortunately, they have filled it with... Art not to my personal taste, and very little of it to justify the £5.50 entrance fee! To make matters worse the staff were quite rude (the only non-pleasant people I met during the whole trip)
I left the gallery after about 25 minutes feeling slightly cheated (it should be noted that both of the Tates in London are free to look around the general collections)
I had a further wander around town before heading off to the station to catch the train back to Penzance. The line between St Ives and St Erth (where it meets the mainline to Penzance) is possibly one of the most picturesque and beautiful in the country. The line snakes around the side of the cliffs as it makes its way along the coast.
I got back into Penzance and quickly popped back to the hotel to drop my bag off, and, by fluke, miss the torrential downpour! After the rain had stopped it was time for dinner.
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The helicopter goes out over Lands End and then over the 25 or so miles of Atlantic ocean until you reach the Isles. The approach is stunning as you can see all the islands laid out before you.
I spent most of the day exploring the islands which in places resemble the Scottish highlands and in others a Mediterranean island (the Isles are directly underneath the Gulf Stream and consequently have an almost sub-tropical climate)
Dotted around the island are several ruins. Taking in all these, and walking around the edge of the island took up the whole six hours I was there before I had to go back to the heliport and catch the helicopter back to Penzance.
After walking back to the hotel to collect my bags, and having a very pleasant local fish supper, I headed back to Penzance train station and the sleeper back to London.
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Very short flight to The Netherlands, 30 minutes of walking through Schiphol airport and then almost an hours wait at the gate before boarding for the flight to Germany. After everything being so smooth and simple up to then it was almost inevitable that something would go wrong. With minutes to go before boarding was due to commence, the flight got delayed by 90 minutes due to the crew being stuck somewhere else!
30 minutes after we were supposed to have departed we are all called forward to start boarding the bus to get to the plane parked on the air-field. We sit there for a couple of minutes before being asked to come back off again as the crew are still not ready!
Eventually after a further 15 minutes we finally start boarding the bus for real and are taken to the plane. A short flight later we arrive in Bremen, 1 hour late. I caught the tram from the outside of the airport into town to my hotel, conveniently situated right next to the Hauptbahnhof.
After settling in and getting unpacked I wandered back out of the hotel and caught the tram a couple of stops back to the area around the cathedral for a quick spot of sightseeing and a spot of dinner, before heading back to the hotel and a seriously needed sleep.
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The town is situated about 50Km Northwest of Bremen and is supposedly the economic and cultural centre of the region, though on a Saturday in late May it was very quiet.
The main sights of the town are the large church (Lambertkirche), the castle (Schloß), and the castle gardens (Schloßpark).
The church is not only interesting because of it's five spires, but also because the inside and outside fail to match completely. From the outside the large red brick gothic rectangular building belies the fact that inside it is a subtle, light coloured stone, round church!
The castle now houses a large museum to the history of the area, sadly all of it is in German, with no translations, or guides in any other language. The castle park, the other side of the main ring road from the castle is surprisingly quiet and tranquil. After spending a short while wandering around, I walked back to the station and caught a train to my next destination, Osnabrück, about 110Km to the south.
Osnabrück is a pleasant town, with lots of old buildings (despite the war). From the tourist information centre I followed a signed walk that takes you round most of the main sights in the town, including: The town walls and remaining gates; The town hall (Rathaus); Several of the towns many churches; and the cathedral with it's disproportionate towers.
The cathedral also houses it's treasury which contains lots of relics from the cathedrals past, as well as many of it's more valuable possessions.
After spending some time wandering around the town, I walked back to the station where I got a direct train back to Bremen, and a well deserved dinner.
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From there I caught the train further North to the town of Jever. More commonly known for it's bitter tasting beer, the town has also during it's history been an important royal seat. This is shown off to it's best in the garishly pink Schloß that takes pride of place in the centre of the town.
The castle now houses an interesting museum on the history of the area, with lots of it translated into English and Dutch. The central tower of the castle supposedly offers stunning views over the gardens and surrounding areas, sadly this was closed for renovation when I visited.
The brewery, towards the back of town, offers regular tours which include a tasting session. Sadly tours (of which some are also in English) are very popular and have to be pre-booked
After wandering around town for a short while, I walked back to the station to catch the trains back to Bremen.
From there I caught the train out to Bremehaven, the large sea port that has supplied much of Bremen's wealth.
Supposedly it is worth visiting, with lots to see. But with no signage anywhere you can wander away from the station and not find anything! After nearly an hours walking, and without see anything even remotely worthy of a quick photo, I walked back to the station and caught the train back to Bremen for dinner and an early night.
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First stop of the morning was the statue of Bremen's most famous non-visitors, the musicians of Bremen, the cockerel, cat, dog and donkey of the children's fairy tale. This also forms the starting point for a marked walk that Bremen Tourism have devised.
Next stop was the cathedral, St. Petri's. As well as the spectacular building there is also the treasury museum, the 263 stepped tower and the Lead Cellar - where bodies buried within have been completely preserved and are now on (morbid) view to the public.
I carried on following the walking tour, which takes in all the main sights and museums (as it was Monday they were all closed) of the city centre. Then it was on to the tram and out into the suburbs to the botanical gardens.
Originally started as a rhododendron park this massive site now also includes 'botanica' a green science museum and greenhouses of some of their more spectacular specimens.
The park itself is huge, I spent over three hours wandering around it, and don't think I saw it all. In late May it was especially nice as all the rhododendrons were in full bloom and scent.
After several hours at the park I wandered (or more closely staggered as my feet were sore!) back to the tram stop for the tram back to the hotel for a well earned rest and then dinner
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Lübeck was once one of the most important cities is Germany, a centre of trading with the rest of the world. Much of it's importance is shown in it's magnificent buildings, many of which have had to be rebuilt since the end of the war, the city being all but flattened during a bombing raid on 29th March 1942. A slightly more alarming feature is the subsidence the city suffers from. The area whole of the city is built on swampy ground and as such much of it now leans at precarious angles.
First stop of the day was the Holstentor at the entrance to the city. So famous is it that it used to grace the DM50 bill. This now contains a museum charting the history of the city and it's importance in European history.
Next stop on from there was the canal bank where I picked up one of the many ships that cruise around the rivers and canals of Lübeck. Sadly all of them only offer commentary in German.
From there I walked to the Petrikirche. Almost destroyed during the bombing it has been rebuilt, but is no longer used as a church. Instead it is used as an exhibition space, and as a viewing tower. A lift glides you up to the top of the tower for views over the whole of the city.
The traders of Lübeck decided in the 13th century that it was time for a game of one-up-man-ship against the church and local bishops. They decided to built their own church, in a similar style to the town hall, to be even bigger and more impressive than the cathedral. They succeeded. Another building almost totally destroyed on 29/03/1942 it has been rebuilt, but with a reminder of what happened. At the base of one of the towers the shattered remains of the bells have been left, exactly where they fell.
After a short stop for lunch, I headed off towards the cathedral. Yet another building brought to the ground in 1942 this has been completely rebuilt, and contains a small photographic exhibition on the bombing, the fire (started by the bombing) that caused most damage, it's ruins and rebuilding.
The centre of the city rests on an island surrounded by canals and rivers. Around the edge is a pleasant path that you can walk round. Sadly halfway round the weather decided to take a turn for the worse so I (quickly) wandered back to the city centre to pick up some souvenirs. The local speciality is marzipan, the experts can make it look like anything!
I then headed back to the station, getting on the train just as the rain picked up intensity, and headed back to Hamburg, then Bremen, and a well deserved rest.
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The museum shows the history and development of Bremen, with lots of artefacts, especially in the "Magazine" collection which appears to be their entire store of artefacts grouped together by subject and then arranged alphabetically.
After visiting the Focke Museum I caught the tram back into town and visited the Böttcherstrasse a tiny lane in the centre of the city which houses a museum and art gallery that link to each other.
The Roselius house has artifacts and items from Bremens heyday as the centre of Hanseatic trading. The Paula Becker-Modersohn exhibition is an art gallery displaying works by Paula Becker-Modersohn as well as some changing displays of modern art.
After spending a while in the museums it was time to head back to the station to pick up my bags from the luggage lockers and catch the tram out to the airport.
The journey home was relatively uneventful - if you ignore the pilot on the flight from Bremen to Amsterdam trying for a land speed record on the taxiways of Schipol airport. After warning us that it would take about 10 minutes to reach the terminal (and it having taken that long when I had flown in from Heathrow a few days earlier) he succeeded in making it from the runway to stand in about 3 minutes, overtaking several cars passing on the nearby motorway!!
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I booked onto two tours. The first, lasting almost 2 hours, goes round several of the islands that make up Stockholm, under many of the bridges that join it all together and through the two locks that separate Lake Mälaren and the Baltic sea. After completing that tour I then went on another that goes along some of the back canals around the Royal palaces. It was quite thankful that I booked onto these tours. Not only were they well presented with lots of useful information about Stockholm, but they also kept my dry during several heavy down-pours.
After sending the whole of the morning at Sea level I took a bus up to one of the high points, Fjällgatan, above the city to look out across it. From here you can see several of the islands that make up Stockholm, as well as many of the main buildings in the city.
After that I walked back to the centre of town to pick up the Tram. Unlike Oslo, Stockholm only has one tram line, and here it is a tourist attraction. It runs for a couple of miles along the edge of the lake, over a bridge and onto the island that houses most of the major museums. I got off at the end stop and walked through the parkland to the Canal I had been on earlier.
After crossing the canal I continued through the parkland to Kaknästornet, the TV tower. The top two floors are open to the public as viewing platforms, with the top most one being on the roof. By now all of the clouds had disappeared and the views from the top were stunning, not only of the City and water, but also into the distance. The other amazing site was the sun. At almost 5pm it still looked like the very early afternoon, with the sun high in the sky and very short shadows.
From the top of the tower I spotted a solid row of trees running away into the distance at the other end of the parkland that the TV is built in. After checking the guidebook this turned out to be a tree-lined avenue that stretches in an almost straight line for 2Km heading away from the city. The map also showed that at the end of it was a conveniently located Metro station, so I decided to walk it. After a pleasant 60 minute walk (it was further than it looked from the base of the tower to the start of the avenue) I arrived at the metro station and caught the train back into town and onto Gamla Stan.
This is the original island that the town first grew up around, and it still houses the official work-place of the monarchy, as well as being a labyrinth of little streets and alleyways. After spending about 45 minutes wandering around the back lanes taking lots of photos, I decided to stop for dinner, and then headed back to the hotel to get some rest.
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The first stop of the morning was the Three Crowns Museum, located in the cellars of the current royal palace, it explains some of the background to the buildings on the site, as well as showing the ruins of the castle that burnt down in the 17th Century. From there it was a short walk up the staircase into the Royal apartments, the rooms are spectacular, not only in their opulence, but also in the fact you can see so many of the rooms that are regularly used by the Royal family for entertaining and putting up guests. The Royals themselves no longer live in the palace instead preferring a little pad out in the countryside.
After a quick stop for postcards and an early lunch I went to the Kungliga Myntkabinette, the Royal money cabinet, which houses an exhibition on Money. Not only does it trace the history of the Swedish currency, it also looks at money itself with displays of currency from Pre-Roman times to the Euro. The main part of the museum is well guided in English, but beyond the main exhibition the rest is only in Swedish.
From there it was across to one of the smallest islands, which only houses one large building. However, in the cellars beneath it are the remains of the old city walls and the area has now been turned into a museum on Medieval Stockholm. The exhibition also includes the remains of several ships which have been discovered in the channels around Stockholm during archaeological excavations.
I then caught the metro out to the back of town to visit the Vin & Sprithistoriska Museum, the museum of wine and spirit history. It traces the history of alcohol in Sweden, its manufacture and over consumption that eventually lead to the strict control methods and state control of supply. It also gives an insight into the production of the local tipple Vodka. Although the whole exhibition is in Swedish, a helpful and informative English language audio guide also takes you around, and all of the interactive elements are in both languages as well.
After leaving the museum I caught the bus back to the metro stop and then another bus out to the Västerbron Bridge. One of the longest bridges in the city, it also has stunning views over the city centre and skyline. After taking 15 minutes to walk over it, the bus back took little more than 90 seconds. That took me back to the metro and I came back over to Gamla Stan to find somewhere to eat, before heading back to the hotel.
After spending a little time digesting I headed back out again, this time to Slussen and the Katarinahissen. Built originally as a way of reaching the higher parts of the town without the need for lots of steps, the lift and walkway now provide an excellent view point over the lake and city, especially during a late evening sunset. From there I wandered back over the bridge to Gamla Stan and wandered through the narrow streets in the dusk before once again heading back tot he hotel and my welcoming bed.
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To avoid the worst of the rain I took what turned out to be the very last open top tour bus of the day round the city, before transferring onto the more leisurely open top hop-on-hop-off boat. Needless to say, both firmly had their roofs up!
I got off the boat on the island of Djurgården which houses many of the city's museums. First stop was the Biological Museum housed in its own purpose built building, which looks exactly like a Norwegian Stave Church. Inside there are a couple of small exhibits, including a presentation of a Bear and her two cubs from the early 20th century shown as a happy loving family unit, mother on her hind legs, baby clasped to her chest with one had, and toddler holding her other hand, not the most natural of stances for a bear! The museum does admit that it is an example of what was being done in the early 20th century and not how they would display creatures now.
The bulk of the museum is taken up with a 360° diorama showing most of the natural birds and beasts of Sweden. Access to is is up a peculiar double spiral staircase.
From there it was a short walk to the Nordiska museum. The museum was set up to let future generations know what life was like in Sweden in the past. It runs from the 16th Century right up to today, with displays on clothing, fabrics, traditions and design. Strangely in the design section IKEA only get a couple of mentions!
After the Nordiska museum, and with the Marathon I full flow on the street outside, I headed next door to the Vasa Museum. The museum is built around the almost complete remains of the 17th Century battleship the Vasa which sunk, on it's first trip out of docks after being built. It lay on the bed of the lake until the late 1950's when it was rediscovered. From the point at which it was raised from the sea bed until it finally went on full display to the public still took nearly 30 years, with the entire wreck having to be saturated with a type of plastic to replace all the water in it. The museum tells the history of the ship, the background to the reasons why she was built and how she sunk, and the efforts that were gone to to rescue her from her grave.
From the Vasa museum I crossed back over the road, having to run between marathon runners, and walked down to Skansen.
Skansen is a folk part, similar to those in Bunratty, Oslo and Riga. Unlike those, though, it has also diversified into a semi safari-park of native animals with Wolves, Wolverines, Lynx, Bears, Elk, Seals and Bison on view. There is also a small zoo which houses some more exotic creatures including a cage full of ring-tailed lemurs that you can wander through. All made extra special as for the first time all day the sun came out and all the animals were lying out sunbathing (it also helped that it was already almost 6pm and most of the tourists and screaming babies had already gone home!)
I caught the tram back from Skansen back into town and stopped for a bite to eat, before heading back to the hotel.
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This tour again lasts about an hour, but runs round the canal that separates the 2nd largest island Kungsholmen from the other islands.
After that I went next door to the town hall and went up the tower for the stunning views over the city.
After descending the tower I went into the main entrance of the town hall to join one of the hourly guided tours that take you round some of the more important rooms of the building. The tour includes the blue room, where the banquet to honour the Noble prize winners is held every year, and the gold room with its spectacular mosaic decoration of some 19,000,000 individual tiles.
By the time I completed the tour there was just time to do a spot of souvenir shopping before heading back to the central station to pick up my luggage, and get the train back to the airport.
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With my usual rote closed by the previous week’s terrorist attack I was planning to walk the last part to Liverpool Street station, but that was thwarted when the Metropolitan line decided it would be a good time to have a series of signal failures. I ended up wandering around the Faringdon street area until I managed to hail a cab and take the expensive route to Liverpool Street, only to find that I could probably have walked it in time as there was a 30 minute gap between trains instead of the usual 15 minutes!
With a, thankfully, uneventful train journey to Stansted I arrived to find that checkin wasn't due to open for another 25 minutes anyway! After checking in and going through a noticeably more thorough security check than usual I found a restaurant to grab a bite to eat in before heading to the gate and my flight.
The plane was almost on time leaving and managed to make up time on route to end up at Stuttgart airport 5 minutes early. Spectacularly my bag was the third one off; unfortunately the penalty for this was a missing handle! In the end it didn't make any difference as at 11:00 at night the trains are only half hourly and I had missed the previous one by 10 minutes!
Personally I'm blaming the fact I had had a stressful day in work and 7 hours of travelling for the total failure of my usually perfect sense of direction. At the hauptbahnhof I went onto the wrong platform and ended up catching the right train, in the wrong direction. I corrected that at the next station, but it still left me with a further 15 minute wait, so I didn't get to my hotel until gone midnight.
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This has now been turned into an exhibition space that shows the plans for the complete redevelopment of the area over the next 10 years or so (The main plan appears to be rotating the entire station, tracks and everything else by 90°, only a small task!) Of course, as its a tower the roof has been converted into a viewing platform and offers stunning views over the city and the surrounding countryside (which is mostly made up of vineyards).
Out into the suburbs I headed for the next stop. Located about 3 miles south of the centre is the Funicular railway which takes you up (steeply) into some of the hills surrounding Stuttgart, unfortunately the trains don't go high enough to take you over the tree line so all there is to see are lots of trees!
After wandering around for a bit I caught the train back to the bottom of the hill and the tram back a couple of stops to the Marienplatz. From there another of the cities transport oddities departs. The rack railway (similar to the cog wheel railway in Budapest) again climbs steeply into the hills overlooking Stuttgart, this time going above the tree line before it reaches the town of Degerloch.
From here I caught the metro round to the TV tower to take the view from there; unfortunately the tower was shut, for four month, for repair work so I didn't go up it. Instead I caught the tram back down through the woods into the centre of town and from there out to Untertürkheim and on to Württemberg in the hills above it. Here, in days gone by, was a royal palace, which was eventually knocked down and turned into a mausoleum. However the building is partly irrelevant, though still interesting to visit. What is worth the trek are the views. From there you can see across the city, the surrounding spa towns and into the start of the Black Forest (though no Gateaux!). The views are beautiful with the deep valleys and hills covered with vineyards.
After spending some time there I went back into town and out on the tram again to some of the places it had gone past, getting off and taking in more stunning views at Eugenplatz, Geroksruhe and Weinsteige. After that I caught the Metro back into town and a bite to eat before a well earned rest.
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As my friend was arriving later in the day I only had a short time, but it was enough to walk around the historic centre of the town and to climb (and boy, do I mean climb!) up to the remaining fortifications of the town for stunning views over the surrounding area.
I left just after midday to catch the train back into town, where I met my friend who had dropped his stuff off at his hotel. After getting another view of the city from the top of the station tower we caught the tram out to the back of town and the natural history museum. Supposedly Germany has one of the best geological conditions for fossils to be found in and the museum proved this by the sheer number of specimens from the small to the gigantic on display.
After a leisurely late snack and a drink we wandered around town for a while before going to find a restaurant and more food and drink!
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We caught the bus from the man station into town and then walked to the funicular railway station. From here most of the tourists were only going up one stop to the castle, but we decided to get tickets for all the way to the top and back down, with a stop at the castle on the return. I'm glad we did, because when we came back down again the queues to go to the top were horrendous.
The railway goes up two stops where you change from the modern sleek carriage to something more "vintage" from here its another 10 minutes or so off climbing to the top, from where there are glorious views over the whole of the valley with the Necker river meandering through it and the vineyards clinging to the side of the hill. As it was just gone midday by this point we decided to stop for an (extended) lunch at the restaurant dinging on the balcony that looked out over the valley.
After a particularly pleasant meal we headed back to the railway station and caught the funicular back down to the castle to have a look around.
After spending some time looking at the castle, and the museums inside it, we caught the funicular back down to the centre of the town and wandered (in the end ran the last 200m) back to the train home to Stuttgart, and diner.
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In the centre of the park is a small tower, which has been built out of steel steps and wires. From the top there are stunting views of the parkland and the centre of the city. Also clearly visible was the very active thunder storm which was heading in my direction. With even my a basic understanding of science I realised that standing at the top of a large metal object in the middle of an open space during a thunder storm is not particularly cleaver, so I quickly descended and just managed to get inside a café before the clouds opened and preceded to dump some of the heaviest rain I have ever witnessed onto the city.
Eventually, after about 45 minutes the rain stopped, but by then it was time to catch the U-Bahn back into the centre of town, get my bags and make my flight.
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At a little after 5 the checkin desks were open, though the security desks weren't, so I still had to wait for longer to get through to the departures lounge!
Eventually, in stages I got through Heathrow and onto the flight. Bizarrely the plane had cameras on its wheels and nose and the cabin screens showed live pictures of both take off and landing.
From Helsinki airport I caught a Finnair bus into the city centre and then the metro and tram out to the hotel to checkin
After spending a little time having a shower and changing I went back out. First stop was the Olympic stadium and it's tower for the views over the city. From there I caught the tram into the town centre and had a wander round before catching a late afternoon sightseeing cruise round the islands of Helsinki.
After the cruise I continued wandering around for a while before grabbing a bite to eat and heading back to the hotel early to catch up on my missing sleep.
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From there I caught the tram into the centre of town and visited the Russian orthodox Cathedral. The building is quite plane on the outside (as is standard in the Orthodox churches) but not as colourful inside as the one in Riga, again another church that was heaving with tourists, most of them the same ones from the rock church (I was obviously following the same route as many of the tour parties!)
To get out of step with the tour groups I had a wander through the market near the cathedral and stopped for a bite to eat, a raindeerbratwurst! From there I walked up to the visually stunning and skyline dominating Lutheran Cathedral. After looking around I went outside to sit on the steps briefly and ended up watching a midday performance by, I think, the Finnish army band.
With the weather starting to turn, and the temperatures dropping I popped back to the hotel to pick up my jacket. In the end I stayed at the hotel for almost 2 hours as a massive downpour took place outside. When it stopped I left the hotel and caught the tram back into town.
From the market place I caught the boat service out to the zoo and had a look around. Whilst on the ferry the sky cleared and a pleasant evening started.
Although the zoo is open until 8pm I don't think anyone told the animals as they all appeared to have gone to bed or were hiding. I saw a few, but most cages appeared to be empty! I caught the last boat back into town and went for dinner.
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From there, as the sky had changed from menacing to pleasant I went out to the Botanical gardens for a look around. The gardens, located just next to the central railway station, are very small compared to similar establishments in other places (e.g. Bremen, Stuttgart, London), but still very pleasant. At the centre is the greenhouse with the usual collection of (mostly unbearably humid) rooms.
With the weather looking like it was closing in again, I went to the Helsinki City Museum which tells the story of the history of the city, from the original small settlements, to the city's founding by King Gustav Vasa in 1550, through rule by the Swedes, then the Russians, then Civil War, World War and up to the present day.
Next stop, on the edge of town by the docks, was the Helsinki Car Museum. A disappointing museum (especially as the entrance fee is quite high) that has a collection of cars (from around Europe - not Finnish made) with very little information on them, and all parked in an underground workshop which has an overpowering smell of petrol!
As the weather had now gone through threatening, bright, cloudy, threatening and was back to bright again I took the opportunity to visit the Winter Gardens. Even smaller than the Botanical gardens, but nether the less very beautiful with the gardens laid out in what I assume is classic "English Style" - Serried ranks of the same plant! At the centre of the gardens is the Greenhouse, which, unlike the Botanical gardens, is actually comfortable to wander around in as the Humidity is set at a low level.
From there I caught the tram to the Docks area again, though this area appears to have been redeveloped into a classy residential and design business quarter. In the old cable factory are several museums, of which only two were open. The Finnish Photography museum has displays on contemporary and historic Finnish and international photography, including a couple of changing exhibitions as well as it permanent displays. The Hotel and Catering museum is interesting (despite what could be a dry topic) but is very small and does not go into much details. Though as with all Nordic countries, it does go on about the restrictions in alcohol sales and consumption from the turn of the century on to the modern day more relaxed attitude (Since neighbouring Estonia - 90 minutes away by ferry and a fraction of the price for booze - Joined the EU in 2004, and people were allowed to bring as much booze back on the ferry as they liked, the Finns have had to relax their policies and prices, otherwise everyone would be permanently crossing the Baltic with vans!)
I caught the tram back into town and, with a clear blue sky, went on one of the sightseeing cruises around the eastern islands of the archipelago. A very interesting tour, through some stunning scenery, however the second part of it was viewed from the body, rather than the deck of the boat, through a lashing rain storm that, once we had left the harbour and turned into the sea, was obviously about to hit. I know nothing much about weather - but even I could see it was a front that was moving in!
Slightly damp, but thankfully nothing worse than that, I walked back to the tram stop and caught the tram back to the hotel to change clothes, and as it was late, have a very pleasant dinner there.
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Just by the access bridge to the island, next to the bus stop is the former presidential house. The building is no longer used by the president as it became synominous with it's longest inhabitant, Urho Kekkonen, the president of Finland from 1966 to 1981. When he left office he was allowed to remain in the house, and when he died in 1986 the building was converted into a museum to his memory.
After spending some time looking around I caught the bus back into the centre of town and stopped for a brief bite to eat before boarding the open-top hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus for a tour of the city.
By the time it had completed it's tour it was time to meet up with my friend from work, who is a Helsinkian and spends each summer back in her home town. She showed me some of the sights before we headed out to a café for food, then drinks, then some more drinks and then it was closing time!
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In 1991 it was added to the UNESCO list of world heritage sights, as this is no normal fort. The fort has been created by fortifying five small islands at the sea end of the archipelago and provides a stunning entrance to the city.
The site now houses a number of museums including the Suomenlinna experience, a military museum, a museum dedicated to the first commander of the fort and the only existing Finnish submarine (The Finns are a little cagey about what happened in W.W.II, though they claim that the Russians started it with them early in 1939 and it sort of lead to an uneasy alliance with the Germans). Whatever really happened, the main outcome was that the Finns were banned from having any submarines and had to pay war reparations. All of their submarines were dismantled and disposed of except this one which was kept as a museum.
I started my visit by joining one of the two daily English language guided walks of the site, after that I had a look around the main museum and "Suomenlinna Experience" - an audio visual presentation on the construction and history of the fort. After that I brought a torch and used that to explore some of the labyrinthine tunnels and casements that run under the site. Next stop, after lunch!, was the museum dedicate to coastal defence. Then it was on to the Submarine for a look round. It is far smaller than I thought it would be. It did only have a crew of 20, but at the same time this must have been very cramped!
From there I visited the museum dedicated to the first commander of the site (though it does also have some details about one of his successors - the one who handed it over to the Russians!), and then the military museum (where they claim the blue swastikas painted onto the planes were put there in 1919 as a sign of good luck - though they did stop doing it in the early 1940's)
After that (and with yesterdays blister now formally threatening war) I wandered back down to the quay to catch the boat back to town.
As it was still relatively early I caught another of the boat sightseeing tours around some of the islands. This one focused quite heavily on... Suomenlinna!!, though I did get some stunning views of the fortress from the sea.
After the tour I headed into town to grab a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel and an appointment between Mr Blister and Mr Needle!!
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Next stop, just up the road, was the Natural History Museum. Shortly to close for renovation this is another interesting museum telling the natural history of Finland with displays of the animals indigenous to Finland. There is also a section on some of the more well known animals of the rest of the world, such as tigers, lions, giraffe, zebra etc. Much of the gallery is signed in Finnish, Swedish and English (as have almost all the museums I have visited), though the section on the prehistoric wildlife of Finland is only done in Swedish and Finnish.
From there I wandered back down to the Market square to do some souvenir shopping before heading off to the national museum, which has lots and lots of information on the history of the land that now makes (or at some point has made up) Finland. The museum is massive and contains lots of information, though again a little cagey about the 1939-11945 period (another case of the Russians started it so we had to side with the Germans),, and in the little time that I had I don't think I did it full justice, but by that time I had developed museum feet and needed a sit down.
I caught the bus out to the back of town to have a look at the monument to Finland's most famous composer Sibelius. The monument is made up of several hundred stainless steel pipes which have been welded together.
From there I caught the bus back into the city centre to collect my luggage, just as the heaviest rain storm I had ever seen (and this eclipsed the one the previous week in Stuttgart!) started. In the end I had to cover myself with the jacket I had not needed all week and make a run for it from the station to the bus stop for the coach back to the airport. Naturally by the time the coach departed the rain had reduced to a light drizzle! (thankfully, or not, it picked back up again shortly after the bus left so I didn't feel too bad about the little bit of a soaking I had got!
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The only down-side was that I did then have a two hour wait in Aberdeen with nothing to do other than read my book and drink coffee!
After landing at Sumburgh and getting the bus into Lerwick. According to the guidebooks and local publicity the service is frequent, which compared to some of the other services is true (it runs everyday for a start), compared to bus services elsewhere in the country though I wouldn't call once every couple of hours, but at random intervals, frequent!
After checking in to the hotel I wandered down to the Tourist Information centre to pick up some leaflets on things to do and then went for a walk around the coast that surrounds Lerwick.
About halfway round the walk is one of the many Archaeological sights that Shetland is rich in. Clickimin Broch is a former bronze age farm settlement which was upgraded into an Iron age fort and lasted well into the first millennium before being abandoned.
After spending some time looking around that I continued on my walk not realising the time, so by the time I got back to the hotel it was already almost 8pm. I dropped my day-bag off and went out for dinner before returning to the hotel and getting some well earned rest.
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The most impressive sight in the area (after the generally stunning scenery) is the castle. Vacant for more than 300 years it is still in relatively good shape (the roof may have disappeared, but you can see what is supposed to have looked like when it was inhabited). You can wander around the castle grounds without a problem, but to access the castle you have to try the door. If it's locked (as it was) it's a short walk back to the Scalloway hotel to pick up the key to let yourself in! Inside there is a display on the history of the castle, and its commissioner Earl Patrick Stewart (eventually beheaded in Edinburgh for his tyrannical treatment of his tenants and residents of the Orkney and Shetland Islands). The most bizarre display, though, is on the back of the door informing you what to do if you get locked in (Better hope you have a mobile, as the walls are very thick and I don't know how loud you would have to yell to be heard!!)
I spent a little more time wandering through the town, unfortunately the museum was shut for lunch, and with the first of the day’s downpours preparing itself I decided to head back to the bus shelter and wait for the bus back into Lerwick.
After booking myself onto a sightseeing tour for the following day I headed over to the ferry terminal to catch the ferry over to the neighbouring island of Bressay. The ferry only takes about 5 minutes to do the crossing. If Lerwick was quiet then Bressay is positively asleep. This is a beautiful island with lots of gradual sloped hills rather than steep climbs. I had a wander over the northern part of the island before taking the road that runs across the middle(ish) of the island to its Eastern coast. From here a small boat takes you across the narrow channel to the smaller island of Noss.
Today Noss is a national nature reserve as it is a nesting ground for thousands of sea birds including puffins. The walk to the nesting grounds takes you around the top of the cliffs. Unfortunately, the weather conspired against me and, only about half way round, I decided to turn back as the grassy slopes were becoming very slippery and the driving rain was making it difficult to see. By the time I got back to the boat (almost completely waterlogged) the sun had decided it was time to come out to play.
I walked back across the Island to the ferry terminal and caught the ferry back to Lerwick. After changing into some drier clothing I headed back out for a well deserved bite to eat.
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The site itself these days is still used by the Territorial Army as a base, so none of the buildings are open to the public, only the grounds. The views over the sound and the town are stunning.
From there I had a wander around town for a while, but on a Sunday in the Scottish Islands nothing, not even a Café is open! So after about an hour of wandering around I went back to the hotel to have a couple of cups of coffee and read a book for a while, before going for the sightseeing tour.
The tour ran round many parts of the North and West of the main island taking in many stunning views including several of the smaller western islands. About half-way round the tour stops for refreshments at a Sunday tea service (according to the driver, who is also the guide, there are many of these every Sunday across the islands). After tea the tour continued back towards Lerwick, diverting via Tingwall to go past the site of the ancient Viking parliament (or ting) and Scalloway. The only negative side to the tour was that it didn’t actually stop for people to be able to take photos; it was a just over 3 hour drive with a 45 minute stop for tea!
By the time we got back into Lerwick it was time for a small dinner (there had been quite a lot of snacky food at the tea).
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After watching an introductory visit you are taken on a tour of the site by people who have been involved in the digging, and then you are shown reconstruction's on the buildings as they think they would have looked, including a costumed guide telling you about how people would have lived. On a misty, windy, damp and chilly day, it's amazing how homely and comfortable the reconstruction's feel.
A mile further down the coast (or at the other end of the runway, which ever way you want to look at it) is Jarlshof (J pronounced as a Y). Re-discovered after ferocious storms ripped the top layers of soil off some of the site just over 100 years ago, this is a massive site with examples of buildings that were in almost constant inhabitation from the early Bronze Age, through Iron age, the Picts, Vikings and up to the 17th century. The most recent building (and the only one which was known about before the storm) is another residence of Earl Patrick Stewart (of Scalloway castle fame).
Beyond Jarlshof the land rises steeply (which makes landing at the airport interesting) to Sumburgh head, the very southern tip of the islands, before falling away as cliffs at a point where the North Sea and Atlantic meet.
The cliffs provide a home to hundreds of thousands of birds, and have now been turned into an RSPB protected nature reserve. Despite the hike up to the top of the hill, next to the lighthouse that protects the rocks, the views are stunning. All the signs said that by early August most of the birds have left, but even today there were still a few around, including those I had come to see, the Puffins.
After spending quite some time, and only realising as I turned to leave how cold I had got, I wandered back down the hill paths to Sumburgh to catch the early evening (or penultimate as it is!) bus back into Lerwick.
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I had intended on visiting the Shetland Museum. Unfortunately the museum is currently packed up into boxes pending its move early next year into new accommodation down by the harbour, so the morning was spend drinking coffee and reading the paper.
The afternoon boat trip was spectacular with stunning views of the islands, as well as views of Gannets, kitty hawks, gulls, puffins and many more varieties of birds as well as seals.
Part way through the tour, the boat pulls up into one of the many caves along the coast of Bressay and a little sub-aqua camera/robot is lowered over the side and you are shown the life that exists beneath the waves around the Shetland isles including sea anemones, urchins, jelly fish, corals and kelp.
After three hours out around Bressay and Noss we headed back to Lerwick taking in some of the bays on the outskirts of town.
Shetland has a unique history for the British Isle being the last place to cease being under the rule of the Vikings (though by the time they left in the 15th century they were more politely referred to as Danes and Norwegians!) Consequently after over 600 years of Nordic rule, and 600 years of Scottish/British (read English) rule, the islands have a strange mix of British and Nordic traditions. One of the most famous of these is the annual fire festival Up Helly Aa, where a Viking longboat is set fire to before a long night of partying and drinking commences (strangely enough the following day is a public holiday in Lerwick with everything shut!)
The history, the clothes, examples of the boats and a review of this years festivities are all shown in the Up Helly Aa exhibition, which, thankfully, is open from 7-9pm two nights a week between May and September. The museum gives a very interesting insight into one of the strangest events in the UK.
From there I wandered back into the heart of town for dinner before heading back to the hotel to start packing.
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The flight to Aberdeen went fine, leaving me with nearly 3 hours to kill at Aberdeen. On a chance I asked the BA ticket desk if it were possible to swap to the flight just over an hour earlier, but was told it would cost about £190!!
So I wandered through to the departures lounge with a copy of the paper, a book and a cup of coffee. Then after 20 minutes there was an announcement that anyone booked onto my flight had to report to the BA checkin desks with urgency
Little to my knowledge several hundred miles south in London a serious industrial dispute had kicked off at the company which provides BA with its in-flight catering. The plane which was due to become my flight back was in the process of being grounded as no food could be found for it at such short notice.
Back up in Aberdeen, and after going the wrong way through security! I arrived at the checkin desk to be told I was being transferred (for free) onto the earlier flight – Lucky I hadn’t paid the £190. With my new boarding card, I went back through security and onto the gate with only 20 minutes to wait before boarding for an uneventful but early arrival into London.
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A quick run through the airport, once the bags finally arrived, and then out to the bus stop and off to the hotel.
After checking in I caught the bus back into town to visit the Tourist information centre to get information on things to do. I then wandered round to one of the marinas to book onto a Dolphin tour for Friday, and then book to go scuba diving on Sunday.
I then caught the bus out to Europa Point, the end of Europe. From here the peaks of North Africa were clearly visible, just over 20 miles away, pushing their way through the sea mist. This end of Gibraltar is a strange mix of cultures. The rock reaches is height at this point with large numbers of English defence outposts all over it. To one side the coast of Spain, behind the coast of Africa and directly in front the largest Mosque on continental Europe.
After spending some time at the point I wandered back to the last Bus stop in Europe (just next to the last shop in Europe and the last lighthouse in Europe) to catch the bus back into town to grab some dinner.
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I had a little time to wander around the narrow lanes and alleyways of the city, many of which follow the fortifications that have turned this into one of the most protected rocks in the world before heading out to the Marina for the dolphin safari.
As we were the first tour of the morning to set off we had no idea where the dolphins would be. The skipper said that at times there could be groups of 50 to 300 common dolphins, who can swim in the wake of the boat.
However, after nearly an hour, and with our time almost up it looked as though we were going to be disappointed. Then, as we started to head back to the marina, several other safari boats from other companies appeared to be converging on a point. A small family of the much larger bottle nose dolphins (think flipper) were out. With other boats chasing around to get the best views our skipper decided to keep relatively still, and it paid off. The dolphins came right up to the boat swimming past, diving and resurfacing for about 20 minutes before they wandered off, and we headed back to the marina.
After a stop for a bit of lunch I visited the Gibraltar museum which tells the history of the rock from its creation during the Jurassic era, through its periods of rule by the Muslims, then the Spanish (briefly) then by the Muslims again (briefly) then by the Spanish again, and then since 1704 by the British. The museum is built above the remains of a 14th Century Moorish bath house, and this is probably about the best exhibit in the museum.
After spending quite some time there I caught the bus round the top of Gibraltar to the East coast. Here the rock virtually plunges into the sea, with very little land that can be used. However, there are a couple of pleasant beaches, so, as it was quite humid, I took my shoes off and had a nice paddle for some time. With the heavy cloud cover stating to leach a few drops of rain I wandered back to the bus stop and caught the bus back to the main road. There I changed onto the small minibus (think large van) that runs up the narrow winding lanes to the top of the old town, the area around the Moorish castle.
The only existing part of the castle, the tower of homage, is currently closed for restoration, but from the grounds you still get stunning views over both Gibraltar, southern Spain and Northern Morocco. You also get lots of views of Apes as the rocks most famous residents, the Barbary Apes wander free over the whole of the area.
With the clouds now looking very threatening (according to the Gibraltar tourist board, on average on 3mm of rain falls during August. I think I was about to experience all 3mm today) I headed back to the hotel, stopping off at the Trafalgar cemetery which was built to house the remains of members of the armed forces killed in battles in the area (in fact only 2 people who were injured at the battle of Trafalgar and later died of their wounds are buried there, the rest are from other battles.)
After a short break to wait out the heavy drizzle I headed back out briefly for a bite to eat, sadly, finding that by 9pm, unlike their Spanish neighbours, most Gibraltarian restaurateurs have decided to close up and go home!
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The rock is riddled with caves and tunnels, many naturally formed. St Michael's Cave contains hundreds of stalactites and stalagmites that create stunning displays. The heart of the cave is a massive cavern, originally fitted out during W.W.II as a hospital; it now houses an auditorium for staging opera, dance and theatre.
From there it's a long, down hill, walk back along the length of the rock, past the Apes den, to the Great Siege Tunnels. These were built during the great siege of the late 18th Century, by the forerunners of the Royal Engineers, to help defend the rock from attack. They now form part of over 50Km of passages and tunnels that cover the rock, more inside the rock than there are roads on the outside!
In the same area is the Military Heritage Centre which gives a small amount of background on the history of the military on the rock, as well as containing a monument for the memory of all those who lost their lives defending the rock. From here it's a short walk further down the hill to the Gibraltar - a city under siege exhibition. This is a small collection of waxworks in a building almost destroyed during the great siege. It tells the story of what the conditions were like for the residents of the rock during the siege.
A bit further down is the entrance to the World war two tunnels which were built to defend the rock against the threat of invasion during the early years of W.W.II. The tunnels are massive and cover a large area. So large in fact that you re-emerge back up the hill by the Military history centre.
After re-wandering back down the rock past the entrance to the W.W.II tunnels and the Moorish castle, I continued down into town for a bite to eat before catching the bus to the North of the airport and the international boarder with Spain. Just across the border is the town of La Línea De La Concepción. If they ever remove the border, the only way you would be able to tell where you were would be by the increased number of Spanish number plates and the difference in pavements, apart from that Gibraltar and Spain effectively run into each other.
As is common in Southern Spain all the shops and museums were closed when I arrived for the afternoon, re-opening at 5. So I went for a wander around the town. By 5:30 none of the museums had re-opened! Either the stereotype of the relaxed approach to time is right or, more likely; they were remaining closed as a service was being held in Madrid at the time for 17 soldiers who had been killed earlier in the week in Afghanistan. With nothing much else to do in the very South of Spain, I wandered back through the boarder (past the massive Spanish flag flying at half-mast) and into Gibraltar to get some dinner.
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I decided to catch the bus out to Rosia, on the South West side of the rock, just before Europa Point. From there you can get good views over the site of the 100 Tonne Gun and the Parsons Lodge battery.
After spending a little time there, I wandered back into town and went to the diving company to have a go at Scuba Diving. I discovered that I can't actually do Scuba Diving (I can't equalise the pressure between inside and outside my head - something wrong with my sinuses), but it didn't really matter as the water was so murky!
However, it did take up much of the afternoon so I was in time to grab some dinner before heading back to the hotel.
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The 100 tonne gun has a commanding view over the bay and coast of Spain and, when operational, could have taken out some of the coastal communities. The gun is described as the world’s first “super gun”
From there it’s a short walk to Parsons Lodge, another of the fortresses dotted around the rock. Unfortunately this has an European attitude towards Mondays (i.e. closed)
After doing some souvenir shopping in the centre of town I went for a wander around the botanical gardens. The Alameda gardens located at the foot of the rock have a large range of plants from North Africa, the Mediterranean as well as Central and South America. The back of the park is a small wildlife park that contains animals, birds and reptiles which have been seized by Gibraltar Customs for being smuggled.
After several hours wandering around the park it was time to head back to the hotel and pick up my luggage and then head back to the airport for the flight home.
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After an uneventful flight and connection into town I met up with my friends at the hotel.
As it was already gone 7 we headed straight into the centre of town to grab a bite to eat (and some beer).
After that we wandered round the centre of town for a bit before heading back to the hotel for some sleep.
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A little before 9 the doors opened and there was a mass surge of people running to get tables. Thankfully we managed to find one. Within minutes every table (that's over 5,000 people!) was occupied and the beer started flowing.
As there are so many people hunting for seats you can either stay put for the whole day, or spend a very long time hunting a seat! My friends had decided to stay for the whole day (all 14 hours of it!!). After 2 litres of beer, half a chicken and some Bavarian Sausages I decided that I had had enough, any more and I would have been quite spectacularly ill I think! I left my friends to continue their rapid descent into alcoholic oblivion and headed back into town.
I stopped off at the hotel for a short while, to sober up a bit before heading back to the Hauptbahnhof to catch the open top sightseeing tour round Munich. Thankfully the bus had it's roof on (but no windows!) so I only got slightly damp when the rain decided to arrive part way through the tour! The tour takes in most of the main sights in the centre of Munich, lasting just over the hour.
After popping back to the hotel for a change into some drier clothes I headed back out. This time to the Schloss Nymphenburg on the Western edge of town. The castle (think more French Chateaux rather than Tower of London) is set in sumptuous grounds with a massive river/canal running through the centre powering numerous water features. The castle itself is sub-divided into several museums (which can be visited on a combined ticket.) However, today being October the 1st they had reverted to their winter times and closed at 4 p.m. so by the time I got there there wasn't much point in investing in the ticket.
I spent quite some time wandering around the grounds, which also include the city's Botanical gardens (also just closing due to the change of month!) and several pagodas/follies dotted over the park.
With the rain continuing on and off by the time I got back to the hotel I was soaked to the skin and by the time I had dried off it was too late to attempt to get back into the Oktoberfest (they stop letting people into the tents after about 7 p.m.) so I grabbed a bite to eat at the Hauptbahnhof and settled back in the hotel with a book waiting for the others (mostly because I was the only one with a key so I had to be there when they got back!)
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One of the main attractions at the Olympic stadium is the BMW museum. Unfortunately this was closed as it is undergoing massive redevelopment and isn’t expected to re open until 2007. Instead there is a small exhibition in a temporary building underneath the TV Tower.
After spending a little time at the museum we caught the lift up to the top of the TV tower for wonderful views of about 100 yards before the rain and murk obscured everything. After spending a little time here we caught the lift back down to ground level and had lunch in the café at the bottom.
After a large lunch we headed back to the Youth Hostel. After taking 25 minutes to complete the check in process and paying lots of additional "Extras and surcharges" we were able to pick up our sheets and covers to make our beds. Normally I wouldn't mind, but knowing that in two nights time I will have all this pre-done for 5 Euros a night less!
After spending a little time settling in we headed back into town for some dinner in the Ratskeller (the main city restaurant underneath the Town hall). After a particularly filling meal we headed back to the hostel, played table football for a short while before turning in for the day.
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Just outside of Salzburg is Schloss Hellbrunn. This is a pretty standard castle set in extensive grounds. What make it different are the water features. All around the gardens are different fountains and concealed jets that are designed to soak the unaware and drench the uninitiated. Designed as a talking point and "whimsy" by its owner over 400 years ago they are still in working order and soaking tourists every 30 minutes!
From the Castle we caught the bus back into town for a spot of late lunch before taking the funicular railway up to the Hohensalburg Fortress on a hefty slab of rock overlooking the city with stunning views of the country side and the town (or at least they should have been stunning if it wasn't for the fine mist and drizzle which was at that point settling in for the rest of the day.)
After spending some time in the fortress we headed back down on the funicular into town, did a spot of souvenir shopping and stopped for some dinner before catching the trolley bus back to the Hauptbahnhof and the train back to Munich.
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I packed my bags, stripped my bunk and checked out of the hostel, took my bags to the Hauptbahnhof and stashed them in the Luggage lockers before heading off for the day in Regensburg.
After catching the bus from the station right into the heart of the old town, I spent some hours wandering around the medieval streets, squares and bridges of the city. Once one of the most important cities in the region it fell into hard times in the 1600's and only really started to recover with the coming of new technology industries from the 1970s onwards. Consequently the city was untouched by most of the wars of the last 400 years, including escaping W.W.II without any damage, and consequently escaping the 1950's 60's and 70's rebuilds that have blighted many other European cities.
There are a large number of ancient buildings, churches and other structures dotted around the city including parts of the old Roman city walls. After visiting several of the churches and having a look around the outside of many of the other buildings (sadly most buildings only allow you to look round on guided tours, which after October 1st are infrequent!) I wandered out to the palace at the back of town. This again is a place where you can only look round on a tour but you can get an idea of the splendour from looking at the outside of the building.
After stopping for a late lunch in the cafe at the palace I headed back into the centre of town, and with too many early starts and late nights starting to take its toll, headed back to the station and the train back to Munich.
I retrieved my bags from the luggage lockers and walked the short distance to the third hotel of the stay and checked in.
Dotted around the edge of the city centre are three of the old gates to the city. After having settled in at the hotel this is where I headed to. I spent some time wandering around the centre of Munich taking photos of the gates and lots of the architecture and sights of the city. With a quickly scoffed bratwurst from the Hauptbahnhof in my stomach I headed back to the hotel and a very comfortable nights sleep.
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After spending some time wandering around the cathedral area, taking in the views of the area I headed back to the station and caught the train back to Munich. From there I headed off to Augsburg, about 60KM to the North West of Munich. I paid the excess and travelled in considerable comfort on the sleek and shiny ICE train that connects the two cities (the train itself has barely started. Between Munich and Augsburg the train takes a little over 30 minutes, over the following 7 hours or so it travels North West towards Stuttgart, Hidelburg and Frankfurt before turning Eastwards and travelling through Hildesheim and Brunswick before finally reaching Berlin (and strangely all the stops sounded familiar!) in the mid-evening).
Augsburg can trace it's history back to before Roman times, but it is them that have shaped the city with many remains of them still visible. To get a good view of the city I climbed the 269 steps of the Perlachturm which looks out over the whole of the city. From here you can see spire upon spire. The city is dotted with churches and cathedrals.
After all that climbing I stopped for lunch before heading off to the Dom Mariä Heimsuchung towards the north of the town. The cathedral is spectacular in size, yet is light and airy with lots of windows. Outside of the cathedral is a display of some of the Roman remains of the city.
I caught the tram one stop further north to the house where Leopold Mozart (Wolfgang's dad) was born. The house is now a museum dedicated to the musician, but when I visited was closed for the year! I caught the tram back to the centre of the town and walked the short distance to the Römisch museum which houses yet more of the Roman artefacts discovered in the city.
After spending some time looking at, in some cases, very, very large artefacts, I headed further away from the centre to the Basilika of St Ulrich and Afra which is the most visually stunning and prominent of the city's churches. Inside the church it is quite dark and simple, but the crypt contains the remains of the two saints who have given their name to the church.
With most of the main sights done, my feet hurting, and a train back to Munich due in less than 20 minutes, I caught the bus back to the centre of town and the tram back to the Hauptbahnhof.
After stopping by at the hotel to drop off my bag and use the internet to check in for my flight, I headed back out to spend a couple of hours wandering around Munich taking in many of the sights I had not previously seen, and in the process taking more photos that I think I have ever done before.
Stops included the Glyptothek and Propyläen at Königsplatz which resemble ancient Greek or Roman temples. From there I went out to the University and to the Siegestor. Originally built to honour the Bavarian army during the Napoleonic wars it was damaged during W.W.II and, when repaired, rededicated with the new words "Dem Sieg geweiht, vom Kriege zerstört, zum Frieden mahnend (Dedicated to victory, destroyed by war, calling for peace).
From there I wandered into the area around Odeonplatz and the Residence taking lots more photos before heading round to the Marienplatz to take some final photos before heading back to the hotel and and god nights sleep.
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I walked the short distance to the hotel and after checking in and settling in I headed back into town.
First stop was the cathedral in the very centre of the old town. From there I walked around the centre for a while before ending up at the Hofburg, the imperial palace, which covers a massive site in the centre of town and shows how powerful the city once was.
Attracted by its lights I wandered over to the Rathaus, which, despite it still being over 6 weeks until Christmas was fully decked out with the Christmas market in full swing. This being central Europe of course meant that people were wandering round with large mugs of hot wine, so not to feel left out…
After spending about an hour wandering through the stalls I hopped on one of the trams that run around the ring road that encircles the centre of the city. The tram offers about the cheapest sightseeing tour taking in most of the main sites in the centre.
With the effect of the hot wine wearing off, and the effects of the cold night starting to be felt I headed back to the hotel.
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Inside the cathedral is quite dark, and heaving with tourists, apart from that the inside is not particularly spectacular. However, the roof is and a lift whisks you up the North tower to the big bell and from the viewing platforms on the outside of the tower stunning views of not only the centre of Vienna, but also of the beautiful mosaic tiled roof. Easily beating the similar roof on the Cathedral in Budapest (You would never have guessed Austria and Hungary were once the same country!)
Descending back into the comparative darkness (and warmth!) of the Cathedral I had a bit more of a look around before having a brief wander through town. Last night I had gone round the outside of the town on the tram in the dark so, with a heavy snow shower starting, I decided a nice warm, dry tram ride was probably best. 25 minutes and one full lap later the blizzard had subsided to a few flakes in the wind so I got off at the stop connecting with U1 underground line and caught the train out to the Vienna International Centre and Donaupark (Danube Park).
In one corner of the park is the Donauturm (Danube Tower) this was my next stop. The express lift whisks you to the viewing platforms at the top of the tower from where there are stunning views of not only Vienna, but the now almost dead straight course of the Danube and the next bout of weather. Descending two floors from the viewing platform, you can exit the warmth of the tower and go out onto the open observation platform for an even better view.
I walked back up the stairs to the café to grab a bit to eat and watch the world go by (literally, as the café rotates taking just under 30 minutes to do a full lap of the tower. Lunch was made even more pleasant by the knowledge that I was not only missing another even heavier and longer snow shower, but also being able to see that this was the last weather front going through and the remainder of the afternoon looked dry (and cold!).
From the Donauturm I walked on to the U6 & S-Bahn station further north of the tower and caught the S-Bahn round to the Prata. The area has been a fairground area for centuries and since the 19th Century has been home to the Riesenrad (Ferris wheel). The largest fixed site observation wheel in the world right up until London smashed the record with the London Eye Millennium wheel in 2000!
From the original wooden carriages you get a spectacular (if slightly vertigo inducing) view over Vienna. A total turn takes about 20 minutes and with the wheel stopping every time a carriage gets to the bottom to unload and load you get plenty of time to experience the views (and the wind shake!) at the top. After descending, I had a wander around the park. With the light rapidly fading I headed back to the hotel to defrost and drop off my bag before heading back out for the evening.
First stop was back to Prata to get some shots of the Ferris wheel lit up, and then I caught the train down to the Südbahnhof to check the times and prices for going to Slovakia later in the trip. As I was leaving the station I spotted another of the many palace complexes in the city, Belvedere, so I stopped for a while to take some pictures before catching the tram round to the Rathaus to do a spot of early Christmas shopping (and a spot of late Glühwein drinking!)
With most of the market closed down by 9:15, I made my way back to the hotel.
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The Jewish museum itself tells the story of an earlier attempt by the citizens of Vienna to remove the population, back in 1420-1421. Along with reconstructions of what the Jewish area had been like before the expulsions and slaughtering the museum also houses the ruined foundations of the Synagogue, which was all but destroyed in 1421. The museum ends with a small room dedicated to the late Simon Wiesenthal (he died a few weeks before my visit) the Nazi-hunter and honorary citizen of Vienna.
From there I spent some time wandering through some of the squares and small lanes that make up the centre of the old town before catching the tram back out to Schloß Belvedere to have a look around. In the daylight the palaces (there are two of them one at the top and the other at the bottom of a slight hill!) are even more spectacular than they are at night. The palaces themselves hold large art collections, which according to all the guidebooks are well worth seeing. As I am not a massive fan of art, and as the entrance, charges are quite steep, I decided not to. In front of the top palace there was another of the small Christmas markets that spring up around Vienna like a fungal infection, and so at just about midday, with a light snow shower taking place I settled down to my first Glühwein of the day…
I had a long wander around the grounds of the castles before walking through some back streets to Karlsplatz, home of the Karlskirche (Charles Church). The building is stunning from the outside with its massive dome. Inside it’s more stunning with the whole of the dome painted in frescos. At present, they are being restored (and have been for a few years). However, instead of this restricting the views it provides a spectacular chance to view them up close as you can take the works elevator to the dome to view the frescos up close. You can also climb the last few flights of scaffolding stairs to the very top of the lantern, designed to bathe the church in light if it was not under scaffolding inside, but now offering spectacular views of the centre of Vienna.
Next door to the Karlskirche is the Wien Museum, which tells the history of Vienna from its original days as a prehistoric settlement up to the end of the Habsburg Empire at the end of the First World War. An interesting museum made all the better by being free on a Sunday.
On the other side of the city centre, about a 1/4 of a mile north of the cathedral, underneath a café!, are some of the remains of the Roman city preserved to see with Hypocausts and floors still intact.
After all that, and with the light fading, I decided to head back to the hotel for a brief rest, and to thaw out again before heading back into town for the evening.
The Haus der Musik is located in the offices of the Wiener Philharmoniker (Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra) this is a fascinating museum, which not only takes in the history of the Philharmonic Orchestra (Which, lets fact it, if your not into the music could be quite dull) but also the whole science of sound. I spent nearly 2 hours in the museum behaving, as they expect you to, as a child hitting every button and trying every computer screen. The museum explains how we hear, how we interpret and how we can be fooled into misinterpreting sounds. You can create your own music track using the base sounds of life, and conduct an orchestra in time (or at least attempt to!)
After spending more time than I though I ever would in a museum dedicated to music, I emerged back into the night and a heavy sleet shower so I hunted for warmth, and beer, in a local restaurant. I had my first Wiener schnitzel of the holiday before eventually admitting defeat to the weather (but with a litre of beer inside me to give me some internal anti-freeze) and headed back to the hotel.
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The palace itself is larger than any of their other residences, with the audio guided tour of just the first floor taking nearly 1 hour to complete (and there are four floors to this place). The tour itself is very interesting and gives you a glimpse into how the people who ran Europe (of course, at this point the Brits were content in just running the rest of the world!) lived.
As with any self-respecting royal dynasty the palace is set in acres of land with a spectacular sloping garden that leads from the back of the palace to a Gloriette on a hill above it over half a mile away that looks down over stunning vistas of the palace and the city.
The grounds also contain several Mazes, one in the real impossible to see through, get lost for 20 minutes hedge type, and two mazes that follow a singe path winding to the middle. After spending nearly an hours in the mazes I wandered next door to the Tiergarten and the Zoo. Originally, the menagerie that accompanied the palace of any self respecting emperor, this was turned into a zoo at an early stage and claims to be the world oldest zoo.
Next door to the zoo is the palm house, and opposite that the desert house that effectively act as the zoos botanical gardens.
After spending quite some time in the zoo and greenhouses I walked back through the parkland and climb the path to the top of the Gloriette to view not only the palace and city, but also the bank of snow that was heading directly towards me fast!
Having staggered back through a blizzard (OK it was a bit windy and the snow lasted for about 3 minutes, but why spoil a good story!) to the palace, and resisted the temptation of a mug of Glühwein at another Christmas market that had sprung up in front of the palace, I caught the U-Bahn back into town and went to the Habsburgs town house come offices in the Hofburg.
With less than an hour until the state apartments closed for the evening, I decided just to visit the Treasury (which was bizarrely open an hour later than the rest of the complex.) As befits the family that once ran most of central and eastern Europe they had a significant collection of "precious things" that are most definitely not for the touching. After having coughed up the €8 to get in and the €2 for the Audio guide (and the €0.50 per item for the cloakroom!) I felt that there better be some good stuff to warrant the cost. I wasn't disappointed. Even if you are not a fan of jewellery or fine robes, or gold and precious metals you cannot help but be impressed by the sheer quantity of the stuff on display (and this is only the stuff that was left to the state, when the Habsburgs renounced the throne and allowed Austria to become a republic in 1918 they had already shipped most of their personal stuff to Switzerland (so it's them who started that little trick!) so that they could continue to support themselves in the lifestyle that being the Austro-Hungarian empire allows you). In the end I had to run around the ecclesiastical section (no great loss in my mind as once you've see one chalice and a set of robes, you've seen them all!) just so I didn’t get locked in.
With a serious (and possibly fatal) case of museum legs setting in I headed off in hunt of somewhere to eat. Unfortunately, as I wasn't particularly hungry and felt like a wander it took over an hour and about two laps of the city centre before I decided on a restaurant.
With a good meal inside me, and the metro station just feet away I staggered back to the train and back to the hotel to see if I had remembered to pack a spare set of legs and two spare hips.
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Unfortunately, the similarities with Prague are limited. True it has a castle on a hill that overlooks a river (the Danube no less), but the castle looks as all the guidebooks describe it 'Like an upturned bed' and the views across the river are not of a Bohemian old town with church spires and city gate houses. Instead, it is of a Soviet era housing estate with all the aesthetic charm that several billion tonnes of concrete can muster.
Whilst the castle is not the most beautiful of objects from the outside, inside there is lots to see with a museum that covers two floors of the five floors of the massive complex. The museum is a strange collection of exhibitions, showing the best of the art from the nations collection, a collection of the state silver, war and weaponry and an exhibition on "Becoming a woman" in Slovak tradition. All of the exhibitions are displayed in both Slovak and English so it is easy to work out what is what.
In the cloister off the courtyard of the main building is another museum, which shows the best from the state collection of treasures from the pre-historic through to the early middle ages.
Around the back of the castle is another museum, which tells the history and importance of music within Slovak culture and life and of their most famous recent musical son Jan Albrecht.
Looking round all this took nearly 4 hours in the end and cost the grand total of 140Sk (£2.80, €4.20) and I had changed up €40 just in case!! I walked down the steps from the castle and into the town to have a look around.
The town itself is very compact, not suffers from a massive bypass and major crossing of the Danube running right past the historic centre.
I spent a while wandering around the town, including having a look inside the very dark and dingy cathedral, and trying to find ways of spending €35 worth of a currency that only one country uses. In the end, after spending about an hour walking around I decided to head back to the station to catch the train home, and change my money back in the same exchange shop I had used a few hours earlier!
After arriving back in Vienna I went back to the Christmas market by the Rathaus to do some more Christmas shopping (and have some more Glühwein - honest this was a shopping trip rather than an alcoholics cover story) before having a wander around the back streets behind the Hofburg and the Opera looking for a restaurant.
With another Wiener Schnitzel inside me, and with my feet threatening all out industrial action I headed back to the hotel to pack and get some serious sleep.
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I got off just in time to find a film crew blocking access to the palace so I had to walk around the side to get access. The main body of the palace is now a massive museum split into three exhibitions. The first one is the imperial silver collection, which is actually the imperial tableware exhibition, and they had a lot of it! The second and main exhibition is dedicated to 'Sisi' Empress Elizabeth, the wife of Emperor Franz Joseph (he died in 1916, she was assassinated in 1895) Whilst she was alive she was an eccentric who shunned her public duties, once she died she became a legend and fated as a "fairy-tale Princess" (not that in any way this sounds like our own Princess... No that would be tantamount to treason!)
The final part of the exhibition is of the state (winter) apartments of Franz Joseph and Elizabeth - not to be confused with their summer apartments out at Schönbrunn! For one of the most powerful people in the world the Emperors apartments are quite Spartan, Sisi's slightly more flamboyant with the first bathroom and water closet installed in the palace.
After spending several hours in the palace I wandered down into one of the courtyards to have a quick lunch in the café before catching the tram round to the Stadtpark which runs in a small space between the Ring (the central ring road) and the River Wein and has statues to some of the most famous composers in Austrian history.
With the light starting to fade, I headed back to Wein Mitte and picked up my bags to head back to the airport.
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After spending some time here, I caught the tram out to the end of the Rack Railway and caught that up into the hills overlooking the city. The views of the city, although slightly obscured by the trees, are still spectacular and the ride up is interesting if only for seeing the angle that you can get a non-cable car to go up! I wandered down through the woods and after a twenty-minute walk, I arrived one station back down the line. At this point, as it was now back into residential areas, I caught the rack railway back down to the base station and the tram back into town.
I took the tram up to the university, which is perched on the side of the hill overlooking the city centre, again with stunning views.
By now, it was coming up for 3pm and time to check into the hotel. I collected my luggage from the lockers and caught the S-Bahn out to the station nearest to the hotel (only afterwards did I find out that I could actually have stayed on the tram as it stopped closer!)
After settling into the hotel, I caught the tram back into town and hand a wander in the twig light through the city centre, stopping at one of the Christmas markets to sample the Glühwine!
With sufficient quantities of hot wine and sausage inside me, I headed back to the hotel as my body decided to remind me that I had been up since 4am and it would quite like to catch up on its rest!
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I caught the tram out to the Rigiblick Seilbahn and caught the funicular up to the top. From there I got stunning views over the city and across to the mountains on the other side of the lake, or I would have done if there had not been a mist over the whole of the area!
Back down part way into town and off the tram at the University to visit the Zoological and Paleontological museums. Both are in the same building and both are presented in a very interesting and hands-on way.
Near to the centre of town is a museum dedicated to the history of man and evolution. Kulturama presents its exhibits in a timeline starting with the earliest known forms of life and progressing through the various stages of human evolution until modern man. The museum also looks at what makes humans what they are from conception to old age with details on all the inside bits that make you tick.
From the museum, I caught the tram out to the Stadtgarden in the west of town. Here in two greenhouses is a collection of plants and, more bizarrely, free flying birds in the temperate house.
After a while here I caught the trolley bus back across town to the Botanical gardens and another set of greenhouses (though in this case they are more large plastic domes) here there is an even greater number of plants, trees and succulents in a Savannah, Tropical and Sub Tropical dome.
Leaving the botanical gardens I wandered back to the hotel to drop stuff off before heading back out to town for dinner.
After dinner, I went back via the Rigiblick Seilbahn to get late night views over the city, before heading back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.
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Running from just before the hotel and out along the ridge to the Cable car at Felsenegg is a "Planetweg". At the start is a model of the sun at 1:1billion scale. Then, on the same scale, the planets are set out along the walk. Mercury, Venus and Earth before you reach the hotel Mars just behind the hotel and Jupiter a little further on. Trying to get your head round the distances involved is not helped when Pluto is just beyond the cable car station - over 5KM away!
The walk along the ridge is pleasant giving views (once you come down a little from the top of the mountain and come below the murk level) over the lake and back to Zurich. The signs all describe it as an easy and flat walk; this is a new definition of flat, which actually means, "rolling". The walk took about 90 minutes and at the end, you are rewarded with a stunning descent in the cable car down into the town of Aldiswil.
From here, I caught the train further south, along the line of one of the many mountain rivers to the town of Sihlbrugg and from there on to the town of Zug, in the next canton.
Zug lies on the banks of the Zueger See (Lake Zug) and has stunning views across it to the mountains on the other side. The old town is quite pretty, but apart from that, there is not much else, so after a while I wandered back to the station and caught the train back to Zurich. It is only at this point I realised how far I had travelled. From Zug the train took nearly 30 minutes, stopping only once, to make the journey back to the city centre.
As I arrived back into the city, I noticed that the clouds had started to lift, and so took a chance and caught the train back up to Uetilberg. By the time I got there the clouds had all lifted, but it also being the 21st of December, the light was rapidly starting to fade, so whilst I got some stunning views, I only managed to take some dingy photos! I wandered back down to the train station and stopped in the restaurant there to have some dinner before catching the train back down into the city.
After having a look around the large Christmas market on the station concourse, I caught the tram back to the hotel to rest my, by now, thoroughly weary legs!
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Not a particularly early start to the day as I went to the Northern Swiss town of Schaffhausen. Nestling on the German border on the main line from Zürich (in fact many of the trains start even further south in Milano) to Stuttgart Schaffhausen has the dubious privilege of being the only Swiss town bombed during W.W.II. The Americans apologised profusely that they had mistaken the town for southern Germany. It did not stop them bombing it a few years later though. Of course, it could have had something to do with the large and very profitable arms industry, which was at work in the area! Today Schaffhausen is a quiet, pretty town nestling on the banks of the Rhine (See also Bonn, Köln) the main attraction in the city centre is the Munot. Built by forced labour in the 16th century it has an (almost) unique spiral ramp leading to the top (see also Copenhagen - despite the Swiss claiming that they are the only ones to have them in Europe!) and stunning views out over the town.
Downstream (45 minutes walk, or 10 minutes on the Trolley bus if you are feeling lazy, like me!) in the town of Neuhaussen is the main tourist pull of the area, the Rhine Falls. Described as the largest waterfalls in Europe they crash down a 23m (69ft) drop. I know that does not come even close to Victoria, Angel or Niagara falls - but it is still very impressive, and very, very noisy. The area has three walking routes clearly marked out that let you take in the best views. The longest walk, which I took, takes you across a railway bridge just yards up stream of the falls, into the grounds of Schloß Laufen and from there you can pay 1Fr to descend steps to a viewing platform so close to the falls that you can almost touch them (though doing so would probably rip your hand off!)
The walk continues along the bank of the Rhine for about another Kilometre, by which time the Rhine is back to being a peaceful and tranquil river, you can hardly imagine that just up stream is such awesome power. The walk continues over a bridge and back on the other side of the river to Neuhaussen and the falls again.
Just opposite the falls, I stopped for a very pleasant late lunch in a restaurant overlooking the falls before catching the trolley bus back to Schaffhausen and the train on to Winterthur.
Winterthur (or as it is known to most Brits - Churchill) has given its name to one of the worlds largest insurance groups. The town itself is quite modern with not much in the way of pretty streets or fabulous architecture. The city does house many museums and galleries. As time was short, I only visited one - the photography museum that shows regularly changing exhibitions of famous Swiss and non-Swiss photographers.
I caught the train from Winterthur back to Zürich, just in time to catch the Lichterfest. This Christmas tradition happens just once a year at 6pm on the 22nd of December. Hundreds of candles are light and set down into the river to float down stream through the city centre. The scene is beautiful, and finally put me in to a Christmas mood.
After watching the candles floating down into the distance and spending some time wandering around another of the Christmas markets (with obligatory glass of Glühwine) I wandered back to the hotel to pack my bags and get some rest.
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I came back to a station on the edge of town so that I could catch the tram the couple stops to the anthropological museum at the university's suburban campus at Irchel. Unfortunately, the museum had closed for the Christmas break so; instead, I wandered back through the parkland to the previous tram stop to catch the tram back into town.
That got one stop before it ground to a halt. My German is not perfect, but from the announcement it sounded much as if a tram up ahead had broken down and that we should all get off the tram, get one in another direction, then change to a bus, then etc, etc. Eventually, 60 minutes after having arrived there from the airport I was back at the same station!
I caught the train back into town, and, finding out that that line was working, caught the tram out to the zoo.
And so, I found myself at zoo/animal park number 6 of the year! Zürich zoo is one of the more spacious ones that I have seen, and includes amongst its exhibits a reconstruction of a Madagascan rainforest.
Having spent almost 4 hours inside the zoo (and partly thankful that the museum was closed, as I would never have got to see the entire zoo), I caught the tram back into town. At this point, I realised that my luggage was actually at the airport, and I had not needed to come back to the Hauptbahnhof, and caught the train out to the airport.
And it was 2 minutes late!
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After 40 minutes sat on the plane the pilot announced that the fault was not going to be repairable on the spot and that a replacement plane was about to set off from Stansted to take us. So, at a point where we should have been some 30,000 feet over Holland the whole plane were traipsing back into the departures lounge at Gatwick with no idea when, or if, we were going to get away.
At 10am they called for passengers to contact the ground agents desk, to be handed a food voucher and the news that the new departure time was about 11. At 11, this became 12. At just before 12 they flashed up a gate number and instantly put it to final call. Needless to say there was a small stampede of Berlin bound easyJet customers heading towards the gate. So, at 12:15, 3 hours and 50 minutes after we were due to depart (and conveniently for easyJet 10 minutes before they would have had to pay every single one of us £150 for the delay) the doors were closed and the pre-flight announcements started.
Just over 90 minutes later and 3 hours 30 minutes later than originally planed, the plane landed in Berlin with my plans for the day in pieces (I had planned to go to Potsdam for the afternoon, but once again Berlin, Potsdam and airlines mixed in a bad way - see 2004!) Instead I caught the bus and U-Bahn to the hotel and checked in, then headed into the centre of Berlin to have a wander around for a couple of hours, taking in the main sights - the Brandenburg gate, Reichstag and memorial church before grabbing a bite to eat and heading back to the hotel for some very needed sleep!
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I left just over an hour to make it; in the end, it took only a little over 35 minutes. The (long) train journey was uneventful and through particularly un-spectacular scenery! At almost midday, the train pulled in, on time, into Dresden Hauptbahnhof.
After a quick stop for a bite to eat, I caught the tram out to the suburbs to the "Blue wonder" a spectacular bridge across the Elbe. Here two funicular railways lead up into the hills above. One is the conventional type, the other hangs from a rail above! At the top of the Schwebebahn (the hanging one), you can visit the machine room where you are shown (in German) the machinery in action, as well as some background history. From the top of the station, there are spectacular views over the whole of the region, and from here, you can understand why Dresden was - before the Americans (and the British) flattened it at the end of W.W. II - called the Florence of the north with all the spires and domes.
I caught the tram back into town and visited the Frauenkirche, the most famous building in the city. All but part of one wall was destroyed in the bombing raids of 1945 and afterwards was left by the communist government as a reminder of (Western, Capitalist) aggression. Following reunification it was decided to rebuild the church to it's former glory. Work was finally completed during 2005 and the rededication ceremony took place less than 4 months before my visit. Unfortunately, as it is such a spectacular building it is being used a lot for concerts and other services, so I was unable to see inside. However, the dome has a viewing platform and this was open.
The views from the top are amazing, not only of the surrounding countryside, but also of the city itself. Dresden still bares the scars of W.W.II, and of over 40 years of communism, but they are working fast to remove them!
Just down from the Frauenkirche is the river Elbe, and running next to it at about second floor level is a terrace you can walk along. From here, you can get good views of many of the other spectacular buildings of Dresden. One of these is the Zwinger. Only 3/4 completed before the money ran out it is still an impressive palace to view.
I wandered round the city centre for about another 30 minutes, then the sun went down and it was time to head back to the station for the long journey back to Berlin, and the almost as long journey back to the hotel!
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After another, frankly boring train journey across flat land with not much on it I arrived at Leipzig Hauptbahnhof - supposedly the largest terminal station in Europe - but being partisan I think Waterloo is bigger (it's certainly got more working platforms and a nicer clock.)
First stop was to head out to the outskirts of town to visit the Völkerschlachtdenkmal (Monument to the battle of nations.) It's possibly about the ugliest monument ever built combining the very worst that concrete and communism can do, yet it was built in 1913 for which there can be no excuse! The one advantage is that, as it dominates the skyline, you can get great views from the top. If you have not already guessed by this point, this is exactly where I headed.
Leaving the monument behind me, I headed back into town to visit the museum in the „Runden Ecke" (Round Corner) which was originally the home of the Stasi. It was here on a night in 1989 that the crowds stormed the building. They discovered that the secret police were desperately trying to shred all the information that they had painstakingly collected over the previous 40 years. Almost every person had a file, and in them were reports from neighbours, friends and colleagues who had been on the payroll of the Stasi to give them information. The museum tells the history of the secret police as well as showing some of the ways that they obtained their information.
After spending some time in the museum, I had a wander around the town. It is not as beautiful as Dresden, in fact with the works going on to rebuild the city and build new infrastructure now the place looks a mess! However, there are several impressive buildings and quite a lot to look at.
Having spent about 2 hours wandering around the city centre I stopped for a bite to eat and then, with the light starting to fade, headed back to the Hauptbahnhof for the equally long and tedious journey back to Berlin, made considerably more pleasant by having treated myself to first class on the ICE!
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First stop is Schloß Sanssouci built as a get away for the king from everyone except his closest friends this is a small and quite homely palace. It's only got about 12 rooms and covers just one floor. The guided tour is interesting, but only in German. Thankfully, you can read a paper translation to each room.
From there it was a stiff 15-minute walk, through the park, to the Neues Palais, the one I visited last time. This is slightly more impressive as it has over 200 rooms. However, you only get to see a few of them on the guided tour you are taken around on. Once again, it is in German only with written translations. However, it is well worth it as one of the final rooms, the Marble hall is spectacular. Two stories high, covering half the width of the palace it is simply breathtaking. The only drawback is that in the case of both palaces you have to wear silly slipper things over your shoes!
I caught the bus back into Potsdam and the train back into Berlin with enough time to visit yet another palace (or at least part of one). Schloß Charlottenburg was one of the city centre palaces for the royal family. It has been built in stages, and the part I went to see was the new wing. This is another spectacular palace with lots of over elaborate decoration and proof that some people really did have too much money! An audio guide takes you around the palace, which lasts about 1 hour.
On the way back from Schloß Charlottenburg, I got off the train at Potsdamer Platz. I was amazed at how much had changed in less than two years since I had last been. I decided that it needed more time to look at and would come back tomorrow. From Potsdamer Platz I wandered onto Checkpoint Charlie to do some tacky souvenir shopping before grabbing a bite to eat and heading back over to Berlin Zoo.
On the main road by Berlin Zoo is the Europa centre, a 20 storey building which, from the 20th floor, commands stunning views over the city centre. On a clear night, as tonight was, the views are excellent, from the Radio tower in the west, across to the TV tower in the east and further. The top floor also, conveniently, has a bar attached!
After spending some significant time up here, I got the lift back down and made my way back to the hotel.
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Gesundbrunnen is one of the deepest metro stations on the network and when it was built, there was a lot of spare space. At the time, it was used for storage, but in the early 1930's the German government decided to convert the space into a bunker for use by the civilian population. Of the over 200 bunkers built in the city this is one of the very few that still exist, let alone are open. The only reason this is one can be visited (on guided tours only, two on Monday and two on Saturday in English) is because it was for the civilian population. Any bunkers linked to the Nazi party have either been destroyed or sealed and their locations hidden to prevent them becoming shrines to the less desirable elements of society.
The tour, which lasted almost 2 hours, showed the kind of environment that the increasingly desperate citizens of Berlin would have lived in. By the end of the war Berlin was the most bombed German city (many others have titles for the most destruction - Dresden - or the most killed, but Berlin had the greatest physical number of bombs dropped on it.) Some of the descriptions of what life would have been like are horrifying, and at one point, the tour guide explains that with bad planning cubicles, rather than curtains had been fitted in the toilets. At the end of the war, with the Russians advancing, and fears (some justified) that the average Berliner would be raped, murdered or taken as slave labour, many hundreds of people committed suicide in them where they could not be seen.
The tour concludes with a look at some artefacts that have been found not only in this bunker, but at some of the others, including a very rusted, very broken, but still instantly recognisable enigma machine.
With a quick stop en-route for a bite to eat, I headed to Anhalter Bahnhof. Once a major station all that now remains is a small part of the front facade. Even the railway line has gone. Next to where the tracks should have been, is another of the Berlin civilian bunkers. This one has three stories above ground and several more below. Once again, in German style it has no sympathy for the people who lived through the war in Germany. German thinking on the subject appears to be that as they were the initial aggressors, no non-persecuted Germans should get any sympathy. The fact the Hitler only came to power with less than 42% of the vote; orchestrated an elaborate coup with the Reichstag fire; brought destruction on a massive scale to large parts of 'his country' (nobody has ever been able to explain to me how an Austrian managed to become the most powerful man in Germany!); and at the end turned on his own people persecuting them for 'failing him' by wanting it all to end, doesn’t appear to affect the thinking. Consequently, very few of the bunkers are open and all the museums ignore the last few weeks of the war and leap straight to the Armistice and rebuilding
The top two floors have been turned into a Chamber of Horrors type attraction with people that jump out at you. Only the first basement floor has some information on artefacts found in the bunker and aerial views of the area from pre war to post wall.
I caught the bus back into the central area of the city and visited the site of the city palace. Although badly bombed, and burnt out the building was still in good shape at the end of the war, and could have been repaired. However, it lay in exactly the place where the East German government wanted to build their „Palast der Republik" (Palace of the Republic) and parade ground. The palace was the seat of power of East Germany. The parade ground was for glorifying the wondrous leaders (Imagine lots of troops marching, people with candles, and senior members of the communist party standing on a balcony looking down benevolently on their admiring subjects - whilst ensuring that the secret police were keeping tabs on anyone who might pose a threat to them or not share the same ideals.) Today the Palace faces the same fate after considerably less life than the 200+ year old palace it replaced. 16 years after the wall fell and with all the asbestos that was in it removed it is now being pulled down to be replaced, most likely, by a rebuild of the original royal palace!
From here, I walked the short distance to Alexanderplatz and went up the TV tower in daylight - without a queue. Whilst there I stopped for a very late lunch/very early dinner in the revolving café taking in the views of east and west. After lunchinner (as I am calling it!) I went back to the area around Zoo to visit the Story of Berlin. When I originally visited it in 2004, I had done so late in the evening and missed the tour that comes with the entrance price. This time, as it fitted in so well with the day I was not going to miss it. After all, it is not everyday you get to look around a nuclear bunker! The tour takes you around the Kurfüstendam bunker. The bunker is still maintained so, should the worse ever happen, it can be brought back into use within a couple of minutes! In a very small place over 3,000 people would cram - almost certainly living for their last few days as their is only enough air, food and water for 14 days, not long enough for the radiation to have decreased to a level that won’t kill you!
After the tour, and a quick look again around the museum, I headed back to Zoo to catch the 200 bus. The 100 bus takes in all the historic sights of Berlin, the 200 takes in the modern including the area around Potsdamer Platz that I wanted to look at, but couldn't today because the viewing platform was closed! After taking in all the sights, I got off the bus at Alexanderplatz and made my way back to the hotel to pack.
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This quiet town was the home to Northern Germany’s main Concentration camp during the Second World War, and after the war, the Soviets used it as a “Special Camp” for dealing with their prisoners. The site was the “model camp” and it was from here that the entire concentration camp system across the Nazi occupied lands was run. From here, decisions were made that effected people in camps from Salaspils near Riga in the North through Dachau near Munich to Auschwitz in Poland and many more. Even today, a sense of Evil pervades the place and on a bitterly cold and windy February morning, it was even more so.
The site has a visitor’s centre that has recently been built. From here, you can hire very comprehensive audio guides, which take you around the only parts of the site that are remaining and help to put into context some of the things that happened here and tell the stories of some of the prisoners, some who survived, and many who did not.
I headed back into town and out to Potsdamer Platz where I visited once again the Panorama lift in the Daimler-Chrysler building for the views over the area. From the top, I confirmed for my own eyes how many changes there had been in the two years since I had last stood there. From the acres and acres of what was death strip, there is now just one empty space, which is being built upon, and a long green strip running down the centre of one of the roads as a reminder to where the wall used to run.
I wandered a couple of streets across to have a look at the “Topographies of terror” exhibition at the last remaining chunk of un-preserved wall. The outdoor exhibition (there has been a very long running saga over getting a proper museum built!) tells the history of the Third Reich, war, building of the wall and the events that took place on the Eastern side of it. There is also an exhibition on the Nuremburg war crimes trials.
I wandered back through the streets to the opera house on Babelplatz. Once called Opernplatz it was here, on the night of May 10th 1933, that the Nazis burnt the books from the library of Magnus Hirschfeld. Being a Jewish, homosexual, Social democrat he was pretty much top of the list of people the Nazis wanted to get rid of. Today a memorial to the event is in the square. One of the paving stones has been replaced by a large pane of glass, which looks down into a space with lots of empty shelves, symbolising the destroyed library.
I had wanted to do one final thing before leaving Berlin and climb the Reichstag dome in daylight. Unfortunately, when I got there the queue was too long, so I walked back along the riverside to Freidrichstraß station, collected my luggage and headed back out to Schönefeld and the flight home.
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After about an hour of wandering, I stopped off for a bite to eat before spending a little longer looking around the city, before heading back to the hotel to sample some of Belgium's finest exports (beer) and then a stagger back to bed.
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I caught the tram back to the Centre of town and had a wander around the Groenplaats, Handschoesmarkt and Grotemarkt in the daylight before going to have a look at the Cathedral. Described as the largest Gothic Cathedral in the Low Countries (possibly even more tenuous than Cologne's 'Largest cathedral north of the Alps' title).
The cathedral is in the process of being repaired, with most of the work complete. Inside it is very light despite the forest of pillars. The cathedral has seven aisles, which create a massive sense of space. There are several paintings dotted around the church including a few by Rubens (even I have heard of him!).
After spending some time in the Cathedral I caught the tram one stop further, underneath the river Scheldt to the left bank. From here there are stunning views of the Antwerp skyline with the Cathedral and the Steen (the remains of a 13th century gatehouse) showing its great history. From here, I walked back to the other side of the river using the St Annatunnel. The pedestrian tunnel links the old city with the left bank and is accessed at each end from either a massive lift (enough space to easily take the 80 person maximum load) or a series of ancient clanking wooden escalators.
The exit from the tunnel on the city side is by the side of the old docks and above them run the South Terrace all the way to the Steen. The views in all directions are great and on a bright sunny day, it was a pleasant walk. The Steen itself is now a Nautical themed museum, but still looks as though it would more be at home somewhere in the 1290's.
After a spot of lunch on the Groenplaats, I wandered back to the central station and caught the bus out to Middelheim. Here there is a large park, which also includes the open-air sculpture park. The park is free to look around, but you can pay for an audio guide, which takes you around the park, and is well worth it as it explains about many of the key works and, some background to the history of the site and some of the details about creating different types of sculpture. The full audio tour takes about 2 hours, longer if you look at each individual piece of work. As it was such a nice afternoon, I took the longer walk back to the tram stop, caught the tram back into town, and then back to the hotel to rest my feet for a short while.
Once the sun had started to set I ventured back out to the right bank to get some more pictures of the Antwerp skyline, by night. If anything, the view is more spectacular at night than it is during the day, though it would be even better if the Steen were floodlight. After taking a few photos, I walked back through the St Annatunnel back to the old city and went for dinner in the Grotemarkt before heading back to the hotel and the welcoming thought of my bed!
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Arriving at Sint Pieters station it is a 2KM walk (or 10-minute tram ride!) to the centre of the old town. Here it matches Bruges measure for measure. Medieval markets and squares, matched; couple of large impressive churches, matched; bell tower with commanding views over the city, assumed matched but as the belfry doesn’t open till April I can’t completely confirm that; Canal system with tourist boats plying their trade, match (though Ghent’s waterways are fewer in number). In fact, Ghent trumps Bruges because it has a proper castle (proper as in defensive walls, turrets, spiral staircases, battlements, crenulations - the whole A-typical medieval castle get up)
It was here that I stopped first. The castle was originally built partly to protect the city from the outside, but also to protect the rulers from the citizens of Ghent! Over the centuries, its use changed into a prison and courthouse (and general torture chamber!) then into cotton factories before finally falling into ruin, then being rebuilt into its modern reincarnation as a tourist attraction. A guided route takes you around the castle with its many winding staircases and odd hidden rooms telling you some of the history of the castle. In a couple of rooms, a small exhibition is on display showing the development and use of torture that went on in the castle.
From there I walked back to the Korenmarkt and visited St Nicholas church, which is currently being repaired, so you can only see half of it. What you can see is a very light and bright church with lots of gold and paintings. From there I walked the short distance onwards to the Cathedral. This is a slightly darker church inside with less natural light, and again partway through being repaired.
After a pause for some lunch and a wander along some of the waterways, I just had time to do the tourist thing and go for a 40-minute boat tour of the rivers and canals of Ghent. There are several different companies that run services, with many offering departures every 10 minutes, (Though this would be at the height of summer, on what had started as a snowy day in March it was closer to one departure an hour). After boarding the open boat I did think I might have made a bad choice as pulling up on the opposite bank was a ‘bateaux mouch’ type boat, totally enclosed and heated. In the end with the sun out, and virtually no wind it was so warm and pleasant that I failed to spot that even in early March in Northern Europe, you can still catch the sun! The other advantage with the smaller boat was that it could navigate through the much smaller bridges away from the centre of town, and consequently you get to see far more than you would do on a larger enclosed boat.
After another short wander through the city streets, and over several of the bridges, I decided to head back to the train station and back to Antwerp.
By the time I arrived back in Antwerp it was just starting to get dark, but enough light to see that the snow showers had never really stopped during the day. Feeling needlessly smug, I wandered into the centre of the old town for dinner before heading back to the hotel to pack.
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So, that will be the zoo then! Well today not, to begin with at least. 8% of Belgium’s GDP comes from the diamond industry (that's just behind Chocolate, Tintin, Fictional detectives with silly moustaches and despotic central African regimes!) The international home of diamonds is Antwerp. It is through here that most diamonds will pass at least once during their transition from ground to jewellery or industrial cutting machine. Just in front on the Centraal station, and located in the same building as the Diamond High Council is the Diamond museum.
The museum presents a down to earth and interesting expose of the worlds most lusted after gem. With an audio guide instead of lots of multi-lingual information boards the museum tells the history of diamond, from its creation 2 billion years ago, through its importance in the past, up to the modern methods of creating spectacular gem stones (as well as creating diamond itself) and the way diamonds are mined and traded today. It is a fascinating museum, which I spent almost two hours looking round (that is about 90 minutes longer than I thought it would take). On each floor of the three-floor museum there are also displays of some spectacular examples of the jewellers art. The only down side (if there is one) is a feeling that despite all that the museums shows it still shines through that the diamond industry is a bit of a protectionist monopoly!!
Just across the square from the diamond museum (a square that is currently being dug up, as is most of Antwerp to build a new cross city underground mainline railway link) is Aquatopia, the cities modern aquarium, and, as it was currently snowing hard gritty snow (think hail stones only much smaller and much more painful!) I though this would be an ideal time to seek shelter there.
From initial looks, it could come across as a bit childish with its talking octopus (so from 'Diamonds are for ever' to 'Octopussy' in one easy step!) But the information on the displays is written for an adult audience (or at least the English translation is) There are lots of displays, but the most spectacular is left for last as you walk through a tunnel surrounded on all sides by fish and sharks.
By the time I exited the aquarium the sun was out and the snow was long gone, so in line with many previous visits that have gone before it, it's time for the last attraction of the holiday, the Zoo, conveniently located next to the central station (just up from the Diamond museum and 2 minutes walk from Aquatopia).
The zoo fits all the usual patterns, except that the animals all appeared, if you can apply human emotions to animals, to be depressed. The great apes and chimps were all sitting down staring. One of the chimps was sitting, holding its knees close to its chest. Without having access to the internet, or a clear grasp of Flemish there was no way of knowing whether it was because they had just been fed, or if Antwerp zoo specialises in traumatised animals, but I wandered round the zoo with a very unsettling feeling that not all was right.
Having dodged into the zoo shop to avoid another heavy snow shower I went back to the station, caught the tram out to the Groenplaats, and did a spot of souvenir shopping before heading back to the station, to start my long journey home.
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Iceland is a very unstable country, not democratically (it has the worlds oldest parliament after all), just geologically. Each year the island has over 300,000 earthquakes. Consequently, there are very few tall buildings in the city. So with those facts what do we do… Head for the tallest church in the city and get the lift to the top of its tower.
From the top of the Hallgrimskirkja the views over the city and the surrounding land are spectacular. There are mountains surrounding on most side, and where there are not mountains there are fjords. We could have spent longer up there, but the viewing platform is also the bell tower and you are standing right underneath bells that can be heard across most of Reykjavik, so we beat a hasty retreat as 12:45 rang out (strangely the tower is closed 11:30-12:30!)
After stopping to grab some sandwiches from a local supermarket, we started walking down the hill into the centre of town, accompanied by a small blizzard! By the time we reached the city centre we resembled snowmen and were a little chilly, so we headed into the first museum we could find, the Culture house. The museum has displays of the original copies of the Icelandic Sagas, as well as a small display of items from the national museum.
With the weather still not improving, we caught the bus back to the hotel for a short while to warm up and dry out. About an hour later, the sky had cleared so we wandered the short distance from the hotel to the Perlan. Originally, the storage tanks for the city’s geothermal hot water they have now been converted into a restaurant and museum to the Icelandic Sagas. The museum uses wax works and an audio guide to tell you the history of the beginnings of Iceland from its settlement in the 10th century through its full conversion to Christianity (it happened one afternoon following a debate in the parliament) though to the beginning of its subjugation under the other various Scandinavian powers.
The museum is inside the Perlan, but you can also go up to the roof of the building to take in the views over the city. After spending some time here we wandered back to the hotel to drop stuff off, before heading back into town for a very pleasant (if horrendously expensive) dinner.
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The reason was because at midday we had to be back at the hotel to be picked up for our afternoon coach tour round the “Golden Circle” a route that takes you North East from the city through some of the most geologically active areas of the island.
The first stop on the tour was the Allþing, the site of the first parliament. Chosen for its natural acoustics and easy of access from the rest of the country, the first settlers would not have been aware of the areas spectacular geological secret. The whole space (and it is a couple of Kilometres across and runs the length of the island) is a fault line. It is where the tectonic plates that Europe and North America rest on are pulling apart, constantly creating new land. It is physically possible (because we did it) to drive from North America to Europe in about 5 minutes!
Moving on from the Allþing we drove along a small road that follows the same course it has done since settlers travelling from the east of the island to the Allþing over 1000 years ago used it. We went past the Geysers at Geysir to head on the short distance to the waterfalls at Gullfoss.
Whilst they may not be the biggest waterfalls in Iceland, they are certainly spectacular. The water pours over them into a deep canyon sending spray all around and, in winter, covering the sides of the canyon with bizarre ice formations.
From the falls, the bus headed back to the Geysers at Geysir. Whilst the largest geyser is not that active any longer there is one, Strokkur, which blows every 5 minutes or so, making it the most active geyser in the world. It is also the one with the least health and safety nannying so you can wander right up to within a few feet of it to watch it go off.
The whole area around is covered with bubbling pools and thermal springs, some about body temperature, some hot enough to boil you alive. You can walk right past the edge of them and see their bizarre colour, feel the warmth coming off them (and when its snowing it’s a strange sensation) and marvel and the truly revolting smell!
Having watched Strokkur go a couple of times we headed back to the coach, via the café and a warming cup of coffee, and continued on stopping at a volcano crater at Kerið before heading onto the horticultural centre of Iceland at Hveragerði. The town is covered with greenhouses, growing most of the fruit and veg for the country, all powered by the geothermal springs that surface under the town.
From there we were taken back to Reykjavik, just in time for dinner.
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Recently refurbished the museum tells the history of the Island from its settlement in the 10th century through to the modern day. The museum is set out in a chronological order and has all the information in English as well as Icelandic. After a stop for lunch, we headed out the opposite side of the city to the Asmundur Sveinsson sculpture museum.
The museum is located in the uniquely designed house that he left to the nation after his death and contains many of his works, as well as more modern sculpture in the grounds.
From there it was back into town and on to the Reykjavik photography museum before grabbing an early dinner.
The reason for the early dinner was that we were supposed to be going on a Northern lights tour that evening. Unfortunately, a hour before we were supposed to be picked up we were called to say that the cloud was too heavy and they had to postpone the tour till tomorrow.
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A little after 8:30 a very large, very comfortable, off-roader turned up to take us on our tour of the south coast.
After taking in the geothermal springs that run Reykjavik and stopping for lunch supplies, we started driving along the edge of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier stopping at the front end of the glacier just where the ice melts into a small lake and river. We then drove back along the edge to the Seljalandfoss waterfall
After spending some time at these spectacular falls, we carried on along the coast to the small island of Dyrhólaey where we got stunning views over the glaciers, mountains and the lava beach. From the top of the island we drove across the causeway back onto the mainland and then onto the lava beach. Standing on the beach surrounded by very black sand, black sand dunes and a stunning sea is one of the most bizarre experiences I have had.
From there we continued on to Skógafoss another spectacular waterfall, this time with the sun light just right for it to create rainbows over the pool at the bottom.
With the sky still clear, we headed back into Reykjavik for a spot of dinner before being picked up for the delayed Northern lights tour.
Sadly, the Northern lights stop being visible a few days after we went, and on the day we went they were very weak. After a couple of hours of driving in the dark in a luxury coach, pulling randomly over to the side of the road every now and then to check we finally saw faint green stuff that looked like clouds in the sky, too weak to be photoed, but still an experience.
By the time we got back to the hotel it was 1am and we knew that we had to be up early tomorrow to get the flight home.
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With the fair finished in the National Exhibition centre at Birmingham International, I caught the train back to Birmingham New Street to pick up the luggage I had left there that morning before catching the train across the West Midlands to Worcester.
After having arrived and checked into the B&B I headed out into the warm glow of a glorious late spring evening (safe in the knowledge, courtesy of the BBC, that this was the only nice day of the weekend and the rest would be cold and wet!)
I wandered around by the Cathedral and the river (Severn) for a while, taking fare too many photos, before heading into the centre of town for a bite to eat.
With the light fading and a heavy day planned for Friday, I headed back to the hotel and the comfortable looking bed.
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The castle is situated in a beautiful location surrounded on most sides by hills, but, thankfully, barely a mile from a railway station (though you do have to change trains in Hereford and wait 30 minutes!)
I spent nearly two hours looking around the castle and the neighbouring Norman chapel. With a filling lunch (and a slice English Heritage cake) inside me I wandered back to the station to catch the train one stop back down the line to Ludlow.
Ludlow is normally held up as the perfect example of a "quaint" English town with hundreds of medieval (looking at least) buildings, spoiled slightly by the travelling fairground which had set up in the town centre.
Ludlow church stands out for miles because of its sheer scale. Easily matching many smaller cathedrals in size and splendour, it is only one of the "Great Churches" of England (Division 1 to York Minster's Premier League!).
The main feature of the town is the ruins of the castle. Once the seat of power for much of the region and home to the courts it fell into ruin and is now a perfect example of what a ruined castle should look like!
With lots of random passageways and spiral staircases leading to different levels that you can get to and lots more staircases appearing a couple of floors up with no way of being reached the castle could easily provide hours of hide and seek fun! From the top of the tallest tower the views over the town are only beaten by those that must be visible from the tower of the church. The countryside that Ludlow nestles in is a spectacular landscape of rolling hills and river valleys with a different landscape whichever direction you look.
Having spent a long time exploring the castle I wandered back through the town taking in all the "Olde Worlde Charm" before making my way back to the station to spend 20 minutes waiting for the train in some beautifully warm early evening spring sunshine.
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Witley Court was once one of the finest houses in the country, and home in its time to the seventh wealthiest person in the land (and given that was the height of the Victorian period the 7th wealthiest person in the world). The mansion that existed on the site was massively expanded and elaborated upon and turned into a magnificent residence.
The family sold the house in the 1920's before disaster struck in 1937. A fire beneath the ballroom spread out of control and gutted one whole side of the building. With the insurance not coming even vaguely close to the repair costs the house was abandoned and left to rot. In the 1970's it was protected by the government and is now in the stewardship of English Heritage who are conserving the building in the state it is now in, an empty shell of a building, but still massively impressive.
The grounds have been returned to some of their former splendour and the fountains, once the talking point of the house are back in service, with the main one shooting water over 100 feet into the air every hour during weekends (alternate hours at other times).
Having spent almost three hours looking around the house and gardens I wandered back to the road to wait for the bus back into Worcester. From the bus station, I walked back to Foregate street station and caught the train south to Gloucester.
I had in my mind a far prettier and "quainter" city than what confronted me. The area around the historic docks and the cathedral are very pleasant, but the rest of the city is quite bland and looks like any other UK provincial city.
Having looked around the docks and the Cathedral I wandered back to the station slightly disappointed with the city and caught the train back to Worcester.
The train back from Gloucester terminated at Shrub Hill station so I wandered back to the B&B walking alongside the Canal for a way, which, with its refurbished and new bridges, and in the warm evening sun was very pleasant.
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Just to make it that little bit more perfect some of the best bits of the hills are directly above the town of Great Malvern (centre of the Victorian water cure craze), which has it’s own station and regular trains from Worcester (as well as Birmingham, Nottingham, London and Oxford). So, at a little before 10:45 I found myself leaving the station and following the signs for the town centre and the hills. The guidebooks state that the quickest way to the top of the hills is the short but steep route up past St Anne's Well. The guidebooks were 50% right, just over an hour later, with my legs, thighs and back in agony I reached the summit at Worcestershire beacon. (I suppose I should add that this is the highest point on the hills at a little over 1300 feet, and I did stop to take quite a few photos, oh, and for about 10 minutes in the Tourist Information Centre to pick up a map, not forgetting the 15-minute refreshment stop at St Anne's Well café!)
Even on a dull grey day with the cloud seeming to be only a few feet above the top of the hills, the views are simply breathtaking. Whilst most of Great Malvern itself is hidden by the hills, the surrounding countryside is stunning, a patchwork of fields, hedgerows and villages. Just visible on the horizon was Worcester, and if I had been on the top of a different hill Hereford should also have been visible.
I started a slow descent back down the hill to Great Malvern, taking nearly 40 minutes to come back down. In the town I visited the small but very interesting museum which tells the history of the area. Up in the hills there is evidence of a large pre-Roman settlement and the museum itself is in the former gatehouse of the priory set during William the Conquerors reign. The museum goes on to explain about the history of the priory, the rise of the Water cure and Great Malvern's role in the modern age (Radar was developed in the area during World War II and its also the home to Morgan cars - The whole of the British owned and built motor industry. Somehow fitting given this was the week that the French owned Peugeot had announced that they were closing their plant down the road in Coventry!)
Having looked around the Priory church (the only other part of the priory to have survived the reformation) and had a spot of lunch I headed back to the station to catch the train on into Hereford.
On first impressions, Hereford looked even more disappointing than Gloucester with the 1/2 mile walk from the station down the side of the bleak ring road into a dreary semi-pedestrianised shopping road. Then you come across the "Old House" a fine example of a 17th Century building still standing in its original location, surrounded by some of the worst that the 20th Century can throw at it (both in terms of architecture and the uniformity of Debenhams, Next, McDonalds, Mobile Phone shop, Starbucks that is the modern British high street). It houses a free museum, which shows what life in the 17th century would have been like for someone living there.
From there I walked to the Cathedral, supposedly very impressive on the inside despite its Victorian makeover on the outside. It is also home to the Mappa Mundi exhibition and Chained Library. Unfortunately, this being Sunday everything closed at 3:30 and I got to the Cathedral at 3:35! Instead I went for a wander around the rest of the city crossing over the river Wye (as in Ross-On- and Hay-On- [Y-Gelli]) and wandering past the site of the former castle (now just a park). It was at this point that I spotted the sign to the "Cider Museum". So on the grounds purely of research I wandered over to have a look.
The museum is housed in the former works of the local Cider company (which has new warehouses just down the road) and has displays on the history of Cider (and Perry) and how it is made. The second part of the museum takes you through the process of making Cider Champaign, the company’s speciality. It is all very interesting made even more by the very friendly and helpful staff... and the free tasting of some of their "stronger" products at the end.
I staggered back to the centre of Hereford and decided it would probably be wise to counteract the alcoholic apple based products with an early diner before heading back to the station and the train back to Worcester.
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Having gone there on a whim I was lucky to find that, as it was the Bank Holiday, they were running a regular service, with a train leaving less than 30 minutes late.
The line passes through some spectacular countryside running along side the Severn for most of the way (hence the name). Bridgenorth at the end of the line is a pretty town on the Severn with, what looks like an ancient stone bridge and one of the oldest funicular railways in the country. All the guidebooks and the leaflets on the train go on about it, so its a little disappointing to find out that the entire journey takes about 30 seconds and goes about 100 foot!
I headed back to the station and caught the return steam train back to Kidderminster, and from there the train back into Worcester.
Finally, after 4 days and having stayed right next door to it I decided it was time to visit the Cathedral. The building is impressive with lots of stained glass and its compliment of royalty (King John of Robin Hood, Magna Carta and Poll Tax fame and King Henry VIII's older brother Arthur who died aged 16). The tower of the cathedral, which dominates the skyline, is also open to the public and after the 236-step climb offers stunning views over the surrounding countryside. With the visibility even better than yesterday I could clearly see Worcestershire beacon, the highest point on the Malverns where I had been the previous day.
I descended from the tower and finished off wandering around the Cathedral before heading outside to have a wander around the grounds and along the riverside path. I walked back into the centre of the city and had a little time left to visit the Greyfriars house, one of the few preserved Tudor houses still in the city. The house is now run by the National trust and gives an example of what the place may have looked like in Tudor times, (they very clearly say that the house has been refurbished not restored!)
With less than an hour before my train, I walked back to the B&B to pick up my luggage and then walk back along the canal to Worcester Shrub Hill station and the train back to London.
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Just before 11 I got into my cabin and decided to go straight to bed, at 11:45 just as I was drifting off the train puled away from Euston and I knew when I woke up I would be in Edinburgh…
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08:00 and things take a turn for the worse! The engine has run out of juice so there is no more hot water for tea or coffee! Still no sign of this replacement engine.
09:40 we have been loaded onto coaches for a 4-5 hour road journey to Edinburgh, still no food or drink!
11:30 a 45 minute stop at services at Charnock Richard between Liverpool and Blackpool means I can finally buy some breakfast and have a comfort stop, but it now means arrival into Edinburgh is not expected before 3:30, 8 hours later than originally planned.
12:30 M6, Lake District, at least the journey is through some of the prettiest scenery in England.
13:25 More than 10 hours after we should have done so on the train, we finally cross the English/Scottish border at Gretna Green.
16:25 Almost 9 hours to the minute after we were supposed to arrive, the coach pulled to a halt on the side of the road on the Waverley bridge. Having spoken to the ScotRail duty manager and getting lots of abject apologies I headed over to my hotel to check in.
I had a big plan of things I was going to do, unfortunately a large proportion of this worked on the basis of the sleeper actually reaching Edinburgh, so with glorious weather still in control I headed off to the edge of the city to climb to the top if Arthur's seat, the highest point in the city.
The views from the top on a beautiful clear spring day are spectacular. Stretching from the Forth Bridge across the Firth of Forth to the Southern Highlands. After spending almost half an hour taking in the views I walked back down (taking longer than the climb up!) to the city centre for dinner.
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St Andrews is best know for its golf course, but it was once one of the most important cities in the country, represented by its magnificent Cathedral and castle (both now ruined)
The Cathedral is situated on the coast with, from the top of the tower, stunning views over the town and bay. From the cathedral its a short walk along the coast to the Castle. One of the key features of the castle are the siege tunnels, built underneath the castle in the 1500's. After scrabbling around underground for a while, and looking around the castle I wandered back to the bus station to catch the bus back to the train station and the train back towards Edinburgh.
Having changed in Inverkeithing I caught the train out to Dunfermline (another town that has claimed to be the former capital of Scotland). The towns most famous sight is the ruined palace and abbey (the abbey itself is not actually ruined). The abbey is most well known for its famous resident. Buried beneath the lectern are the remains of King Robert the Bruce.
Having looked around the abbey and the palace I walked the short distance back to the station and caught the train back to Edinburgh. After a short comfort stop and opportunity to drop some of my junk off at the hotel I headed back out for a spot of dinner before making my way to the Mercat Cross to take in one of the rapidly expanding ghost tours of Edinburgh.
This one is run by Mercat tours (the same people who did the underground Edinburgh tour that I went on in 2001). This is again and interesting and lively tour that goes into the vaults of the South Bridge, but also into one of Edinburgh's more stately graveyards.
With a busy day planned for Sunday, and with the time already gone 11pm I headed back to the hotel to pack for the following morning, and to get some well deserved sleep.
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First stop of the morning was the open-top bus tour. Useful for two reasons, one to get to the Wallace monument on the outskirts of town, which would be quite a hike without, and the other to get to the castle without having to expend any of your own energy climbing the very steep hill!
The Wallace monument is Scotland's national monument, to the man (immortalised on screen by Mel Gibson as Braveheart) who helped, temporarily, to kick the English out of Scotland. The monument is on the top of a big hill which you can climb up (taking about 10 minutes), or you can cheat and catch the free minibus to the top (about 90 seconds!). From the base of the monument you can climb up the spiral staircase (240+ stairs) to the top for, what I was reliably informed are on a clear day, stunning views over Stirling and across from Edinburgh to the Highlands. Unfortunately today it was a struggle to see the car park let alone Stirling or beyond.
On the way up at three internal floors are displays on the story of William Wallace, An exhibition called the "Hall of Heroes" dedicated to the famous Scotsmen of ages past (note, all men, no women - though they are the original selection made during the less enlightened Victorian era. The final exhibition tells the story of the building of the monument.
Having descended back down all to the base of the monument and then on down to the car park I had just enough time to down half a litre of water before the bus turned up. I caught the bus back into town and on up to the castle. Before visiting the castle I stopped off and four other attractions located in the same area. The Mar’s Wark is the remains of a fine house that was built near the castle. It is now in complete ruins and contains part of the graveyard of my next stop the Holy Rude Kirk. The church was the site of the Coronation of the then 13 month old James to become James VI of Scotland. It and Westminster Abbey (Where James was later crowned James I of Britain in 1604 bringing the English and Scottish crowns together) are the only two existing, working churches which have witnessed coronations.
Next door to the church is the old prison. This now houses a museum telling the story of life in prison during the initially enlightened Victoria times (Elizabeth Fry etc.) through to the more barbaric times at the end of the century. The museum also has a display on what life is like in a current Scottish jail, the Maximum security Shorts on the outskirts of Glasgow.
The Argyll’s Lodging house up the hill towards the castle is a preserved example of what a 17th century Wealthy Scots town house would have looked like. Having spent some time there I finally came back to the top of the hill and to Stirling castle.
The castle is very very similar to Edinburgh, but on a more manageable scale (though I only just got to see everything in the 2 hours I had before closing time, and that was without the audio guide) The castle also houses a number of displays and museums, the most interesting of which is on the great kitchens.
With weary feet I headed back down the hill to the station stopping for a spot of dinner before getting the 7 O'clock train back to Edinburgh.
I arrived in Edinburgh a little after 8, too late to do anything, but too early to get my luggage and go to the lounge for the sleeper. After an hour of wandering around town taking some more photos I headed back to the station, picked up my belongings and wandered over to the lounge for some tea before boarding the sleeper, hoping that when I woke up, this time I would actually be at my destination and not in a pretty field less than 200 miles from Edinburgh.
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Despite repeated assurances that coaches were on their way to take people down to London, or the carriages being made ready to sleep in Edinburgh overnight and catch the train down in the morning, nothing has appeared.
01:00 and I have just got into a hotel room for a couple of hours sleep. I’m staying in a four star hotel overlooking Princes street, the Scott monument and the castle, but I don’t really care because I have to get up in 4 hours to get the train back down to London.
05:30 With the sun starting to break through the clouds I’m standing on Waverley station 300+ miles north of where I should be at this point in time, about to catch the first train of the morning down to London, a disappointing and tiring end to what should have been a relaxing short break!
10:40 And just to top it off the engineering works on the East Coast main line overnight overran so the train was 40 minutes late into Kings Cross!
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A little later, we met up again, and after a short attempt to work out how to purchase tickets for the tram we caught one into town, stopping on the edge of the old town for lunch.
From lunch, we walked up the side of the old town to the central station, and more importantly, the tourist information centre, where we purchased Kraków cards for the following three days, and yet more tram tickets to see us through.
We then spent the next two hours or so wandering round the streets of the old town. There is a lot to see in Kraków, around every corner there is another small church or medieval square. The centre of the old town is the massive market square, which dwarfs all other similar places in other cities.
We stopped for a brief beer break just off from the market square before walking round the last part of the old town perimeter to the castle. There we picked up the tram back to the hotel to drop stuff off before heading back out a little later for dinner.
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After the Barbican and gate we headed south down the main street towards the market square for a brief coffee stop, before wandering over to the tower of the old town hall (in fact it is the only part of the old town hall that still exists.) The tower has several different levels each of which has a different display, on level one it's remains of the old town hall, level two has some of the costumes that the burghers of old Kraków would have worn in the 14th Century. The third level has photos of the centre of Kraków taken at different times between the 1840's and 1930's. The top level has three viewing windows from which you can look over most of the city.
The next stop, after a pause for lunch, was the old Jewish quarter at Kazmierz. The area was emptied by the Nazi's during the war moving all the residents to the Ghetto in another part of the city, but the area remained almost intact as the Nazi's were going to turn it into a museum of "Vanished Races". The main destruction that did take place is evident at the Remuh cemetery. One of the walls is made of the fragments of tombstones, which were destroyed when the Nazi's tried to get rid of the cemetery. Today, some of the stones have been restored, but much of the site, despite being full, is open space with no stones to mark who lies there.
From the Remuh cemetery and synagogue, we walked on down to the old synagogue. This was one of the first to be built in the area in the 15th century. It no longer serves as a Synagogue, but instead holds a museum to the history and culture of Judaism. It some detail it explains the different customs and traditions as well as the festivals and beliefs of the Jewish faith.
After pausing for a short stop at a café in the Jewish quarter, we finished walking through the area, before catching the tram out to Salwator on the tram, and from there walked the short distance to the Kosciuszko Mound. The mound is man made, at the base are the buildings of a fort that the Austrians built in their attempt to turn Kraków into a fortress, above is the original mound, covered in grass, with its paths leading to the top. From the top of the mound you have stunning views over the city and the surrounding countryside.
After spending some time on the top of the mound we descended to the base, caught the bus back to the Salwator tram depot and the tram back into town for dinner.
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From the museum we walked back to the centre of town and stopped for an early lunch, before heading off to the happier surroundings of the university (though it was from here that the Nazi's rounded up and deported nearly 200 professors, doctors and lecturers in 1940, many of them died in Sachsenhausen concentration camp outside Berlin before international pressure finally forced the Nazi's to cave in and release them). The university buildings were built in the 15th century and are spectacular, set around a central courtyard with a gallery stretching around the first floor. Entrance to the university museum is on a guided tour only and we were lucky enough to get there in time to take the last English tour of the day. The tour takes in the stunning old library and treasuries of the University. One room on the tour is dedicated to the former student Nicolas Copernicus, who went on to change the whole concept of the universe (the phrase that the Poles like to use is that he stopped the sun and moved the earth!)
After the college we had a wander around the centre of the old town taking in a number of the different churches that are everywhere in the city centre. After looking around the Franciscan and Dominican churches, we headed to the domed church of Saints Peter and Paul and the neighbouring church of St Andrew before heading back to the market square for an afternoon beer pause before taking in the cathedral church of St Mary.
The church is spectacular with a beautiful painted ceiling and the largest alter piece in the world. However, you can only see a part of the church as the remainder is partitioned off for prayer only (though some tourists had snuck in that way, avoiding the entrance charge, and were taking photos (also forbidden) and were getting a telling off from the church staff!)
Churched out we caught the tram back to our hotels for a short break before heading back out to town and dinner.
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The castle has stunning views over the city centre from it's ramparts and is packed with interesting buildings and museums. First stop of the morning is the display of Oriental treasures that the castles kings seized. Then it was onto the massive treasury and armoury absolutely bristling with weaponry and gold.
After having a short wander around the grounds we went to the "Lost Wawel" exhibition that shows many of the bits of the old castle that have been lost over time as new buildings are built over the top. The exhibition also has a computer walk through of what the original settlement on the castle hill with its church and small buildings might have looked like.
From there we descended the 136 steps into the hill that the castle stands on. Underneath there is a quite large complex of caves, at the end of which lives a fire breathing dragon (though in its current form the terrible lizard is made of copper and its breath is powered by town gas!
After having walked back up to the entrance of the castle we were just in time for our timed entry slot into the State rooms. There is a large collection of rooms in the castle, and about 20 of them are on display to wander round. The rooms are all richly furnished with lots of paintings and tapestries, and beautifully carved ceilings.
After stopping for a bite to eat in the centre of town we walked the short distance to the railway station and caught the train out to Wieliczka. The town sits right above a massive seam of rock salt, and into this, for centuries, people have dug to extract the salt. The mines now cover a massive area and descend to over 300 meters deep. Over the years the miners carved elaborate caverns, in most cases to extract the salt, but in other locations to create chapels and caverns.
The mine is now open to the public to go on guided tours, these start by descending 380 steps to the first level of the mine 64 metres below the surface (by the end of the tour we had descended another 71 meters to level 3 at 135 meters below.)
Along the way we walked along over 2KM of passageways leading into many stunning caverns. The most impressive of which housed a full church, carved from salt over 40 years it's the size of a decent cathedral and all the fixtures within it, including the chandeliers, are made from salt.
The tour ends with an optional, but free, 50 minute or so guided walk around the museum which tells the history of the extraction of salt, shows examples of salt crystals and how they form, and includes more impressive caverns and tunnels.
The tour ends, thankfully, with the express lift to the surface. It takes just a couple of seconds to re-ascend the 135 meters that you have just taken 3 hours descending. We walked back to the station and caught the train back to Kraków and dinner (with no salt!).
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Auschwitz itself is many camps spread over a massive distance, but the two that most people know about are Auschwitz I on the outskirts of the town and Auschwitz II – Birkenau about 3KM North West of the original. The Poles originally built the first camp as an army barracks in the 1920’s but was requisitioned by the SS after they invaded in 1939. The second camp was built by camp prisoners and opened by 1941. By 1944, at its height the camp was killing thousands of, mostly, Jews each day. Walking around the sites and looking at the size you can start to get a grasp of the size of what happened here.
Both sites are now part of a UNESCO world heritage site and form part of a free museum, however, to appreciate the sites more it is recommended to take a tour, which run at least twice daily in English and other languages. I joined the 11am tour which started with a 15 minute film taken by the red army soldiers when they liberated the camps in January 1945. Some of the images of the living are possibly more horrific than the images of dead bodies. Due to the number of people visiting for the English tour five separate groups were taken round, starting in different places. My tour group started by boarding the bus to Birkenau.
The first thing that strikes you about the camp is its sheer size. Almost as far as you can see are sentry points and barbed wire (today without the electricity that ran through it). The next site is probably the most famous, the “Gate of Death” watch tower with its train line passing underneath it. The guide takes about 90 minutes to walk you around a small portion of the site, showing the horrific conditions that camp prisoners were kept in, not just physical but also mental with the random violence and death that was inflicted.
The tour ends at the end of the railway track, almost a kilometre from the watchtower, where two of the four gas chambers/ crematoriums were located. They were blown up the retreating SS just days before the camp was liberated, but the remains have been left as they were found. Today, between the sites of the ruins, and directly at the end of the railway tracks is the memorial to the Holocaust. Its words, written in most of the languages of people who died at the site possibly make the most moving testament to the site – “For ever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity, where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe. Auschwitz – Birkenau 1940-1945”
The tour is taken back on the bus to Auschwitz I where the tour continues. The first part of the tour takes you through the background to the site, and the history of its creation before walking underneath the famous cynical gate sign “Arbeit Macht Frei” – “Work makes you free” and into the camp. Unlike Birkenau where most of the buildings have gone almost all the buildings remained at Auschwitz. Many of the buildings have been turned into memorials for each nationality or group who were killed at both parts of the camps (along with Jews the Nazis also tried to wipe out Gypsies and Homosexuals as well as killing many thousands of Poles, Hungarians, French and other nationalities). Several have also been turned into museums to explain what conditions the people held here suffered.
The tour then goes to some of the blocks that house what the SS hoarded. Anything that was of use was kept. In one room a pile of luggage, in another shoes, a mangled pile of glasses and, possibly the most distressing, human hair, mostly from the victims of the gas chambers which was cut off to be sent to Germany for turning into textiles.
The final two stops on the tour are the cell block and finally the gas chamber/crematorium. This is the only one of the five built at Auschwitz and Auschwitz-Birkenau which survived. It was used from 1940 up until the opening of the four larger complexes at Auschwitz-Birkenau in 1941, but still lead to the deaths of countless thousands of people. One room was the “Shower room” and then next door was the crematorium. Despite being a gutted space it still gives out a feeling of utter evil, standing in a space where thousands of people died in an almost mechanical fashion gives you a completely different view on life, and the importance of it.
The visit is possibly one of the most distressing and emotionally upsetting places I have ever been to, but at the same time is such an important place for people to go to.
Emotionally drained I caught the train back to Kraków to meet back up with my friends for dinner before heading back to the hotel to pack
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By the time I had checked into the hotel and was settled in it was almost 9:30 (nearly 3 hours since I had landed!) Just as I was about to head out into the city centre (Madrid is an evening place, dinner starts at 10pm) the next torrential downpour started with yet more thunder, so I held out for a bit longer.
With the weather stable, for a short while, I walked to the metro and caught the train down to Opera. I had a short wander around some of the streets before ending up at the Royal Palace, gardens and the Cathedral.
Having spent some time taking photos, and with it rapidly approaching Midnight, and another massive thunderstorm approaching from the mountains (the lightning was already streaking across the sky) I hopped back onto the Metro and back to the hotel, getting back just a couple of minutes before another spectacular cloud burst!
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Next door to the Palace is the mighty Cathedral. There has been a church on this site since the 11th Century, so it's slightly odd to realise that the cathedral was only completed in 1981 and wasn't consecrated (properly made into a Cathedral once all its building debts have been paid off) by the Pope until 1993.
From the outside, the building looks much older than the inside (though it did take them over 100 years to build, so that could explain!). Inside it resembles a typical cathedral, except one that has been scrubbed clean. All the stonework is still light and new and the stained glass is all very modern.
I walked back to the other side of the square in front of the palace and caught the Madrid Vision bus. This open-top hop-on-hop-off guide bus runs on two routes around the city. The historic Madrid route starts by the palace and then it meets with the modern Madrid route about halfway around. Each route takes about 1 hour 15 minutes, and in the late afternoon sun is a very pleasant way to spend a couple of hours (and an opportunity to top up the sunburn!)
Having completed both tours I got off at Plaza Mayor, the biggest of the squares in the city, and had a wander, before stopping for a late afternoon bite to eat (by the time I sat down it was already long gone 4) and a bit to drink. After spending longer than I had thought I would there, and only leaving to avoid the large group of very drunken English football fans who had just staggered into the café after England's opening World cup match (and post match celebratory drinks!).
I wandered up the road to Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, a small square currently mostly taken up by holes for the refurbishment of the line 3 metro, where the statue of Madrid, a bear and a strawberry bush, is located. I then walked the short distance back down to the Plaza de la Villa to have look around, as it had looked very pretty from the top of the bus.
I caught the bus back round, from the Plaza de la Villa, to Atocha station, partially just to check to make sure they had left luggage lockers for Monday, and also to check how often, and at what times, the trains to Toledo were, just in case I wanted to go there on Monday.
Having checked all that, and with the time already heading towards 8pm I headed back to the hotel to drop stuff off before heading back out again to track down some dinner.
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First stop of the morning was the museum of the city (Museo de la Ciudad). The museum tells the history of the development and building of the city, with lots of very big models of individual buildings, and of city areas. There are also exhibitions dedicated to the development of the Metro in Madrid, the history of EMT (The Madrid bus company), Telefonica (The national phone company) as well as exhibitions on Bajaras airport, the national nuclear industry, Gas Natural and Phillips (I didn’t think they even were Spanish).
From there I headed south to the Royal National Mint, and after getting through security (they didn't speak any English, I only spoke pleasantries in Spanish, it was all down to International sign language and common sense!) visited the museum. The museum tells the history of money from its earliest (and strange) forms, through the Greeks, Romans and other settlers is Hispania up to modern day, tracing the development of the Pesos, Euro and other nationalities currencies (cue the obligatory 100,000,000,000 Mark note circa 1930 Germany).
A quick zip across town took me to the Templo de Debod. A genuine 2,200 year old Egyptian temple, that was shipped brick by brick (carvings still intact) to Spain in the 1950's. The temple is bizarre looking totally out of place, and at the same time fitting into its surroundings in a large park. Inside there is still lots of the original 2000 year old carvings to be seen as well as a small exhibition on where the temple came from.
I then walked, what turned out to be quite a long way, along the road to the Museo de America, museum of the Americas. The museum traces the history and culture of the Spanish speaking American nations (Mexico south, ignore Brazil and a few other small ones.) The museum is packed with exhibits, but I only got there (after the extended walk) with 45 minutes to go before it closed (most museums shut down by 2 or 3pm on a Sunday) so I only managed to get a brief glance over most of the exhibits.
I walked back part way, giving up when I spotted the Metro station. I caught the Metro back over to Plaza Mayor for a late lunch, before heading most of the way back (I only realised what I was doing after I switched auto pilot off as I sat down in a cafe in Plaza Mayor) to go on the Teleférico.
This is a cable car (of sorts) that links the massive Casa de Campo park with the almost centre of Madrid. The park houses the Zoo Aquarium and the theme park, but the main reason was just for the ride, which offers stunning views over both the park and the city. The journey itself takes over 10 minutes and covers nearly 2.5Km
After some time at the Casa de Campo, I caught the cable car back to the parkland on the city side, and stopped there for a while, before wandering back to the square in front of the royal palace for a very leisurely dinner, and to watch the sun go down over the mountains. After a sunset stroll through the park, and with very weary feet I wandered back to the Metro station and caught the metro back to the hotel and a bucket of cold water to stand my feet in!
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I decided, rather than wait around at the station, I would catch the tube back up to Colon and from there visit the wax museum.
The museum is similar to wax museums the world over, large number of ancient historical figures (recognised a few), famous historical Spanish figures (only recognised a couple – and only from pictures in other places like the royal palace), current famous Spaniards (very few recognised) and other famous people (recognised most). There is also the chamber of horrors and the crime gallery.
After spending nearly an hour in the wax museum, I caught the train back to Atocha, brought my tickets to Toledo and went to catch the train. In March 2004, Atocha became indelibly linked to terrorism when a series of bombs exploded on trains killing nearly 200 and injuring thousands. Today there are no physical signs of the damage, but access to the long distance and high-speed trains is now through airport style security putting your bags through a scanner people being randomly stopped.
The guidebooks all seamed to be a little confused over how to get to Toledo. The Lonely Planet says that there are only 5 trains a day and they take over 90 minutes. The footprint guide says there are trains every 2 hours or so and take about 90 minutes. In reality, there are trains every 90 minutes and they take 30 minutes (quite a difference when you only have a couple of hours before you have to get to the airport.) The confusion probably stems from the fact that Toledo is now on the Ave network of high-speed trains. Consequently, 30 minutes after leaving Madrid and 70 KM away the train pulled into Toledo station.
The station itself is some way away from the centre of the town (both horizontally and, more painfully, vertically) It took about 30 minutes to walk to the centre of the old town (though this did include several short water stops, lots of photo breaks and a short stop at a kiosk to pick up more water.
The city, once the capital of Spain, is stunning. With most of its medieval fortifications and walls still in place. On a hot summers day the heat and sunlight is reduced with canvas cloths hanging over the narrow passageways and lanes.
The most imposing structure in the city is the Cathedral, taking up a massive space from the outside, and seemingly even bigger inside. The inside is richly decorated with lots of sculptures, paintings and gold. Just off to one side of the main body of the cathedral is the cloister with its beautiful and tranquil garden and next to that is the treasury with even more gold!
After having spent some time in the cathedral, and about an hour wandering around the streets of the old town, it was time to wander back to the station and to catch the train back to Madrid. I picked up my luggage hopped on the metro and started the journey back to the airport taking in the Metro, replacement bus, Metro, bus route to Terminal 4 direct (which in the end was a lot faster than the journey in had been.)
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After a trouble free journey to Waterloo (quite an achievement for Southern and South West Trains) I checked in for the Eurostar and settled down in the departures lounge with a large coffee.
9am BST/10am CEST and I am speeding my way across France, by 11am I am in Brussels, Belgium and then at a little before 14:15 I cross my third boarder and into my fourth country of the day.
After checking into the hotel, I headed out into the city, only to find out at this point that June 23rd is Luxembourg day and everyone is on Holiday and in town to watch parades. All the shops are shut and most of the city centre is deserted, which makes it a perfect time to wander around the streets of the pedestrianised centre, which I assume would normally be heaving.
After spending a couple of hours wandering around, including stopping off in the Cathedral, which was mostly closed in preparation for a celebration mass that evening, I managed to find a little café in a nice sun trap and stopped for a bite to eat and a small drink.
I continued walking around town for a while before heading back (past most of the Army, Police, Fire and Ambulance services marching past the Hôtel del Ville) to my hotel.
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The bus takes in large parts of the city centre as well as the European area (where several parts of the EU as well as the European Court of Justice are based) and the new banking district. Unfortunately, there are lots of works going on in the centre of the city so it doesn't take in the Royal Palace, the centre of the old town, the main entrance to the Cathedral or the site of the old fortress (the Bock)!
Getting back to place de la Constitution I picked up the Pétrusse Express, a land train that descends the steep lanes down into the floor of the gorge, before taking in many of the sights down there, as well as rising back up to the remains of the Bock.
On getting back to the Place de la Constitution, I wandered down some of the side streets in the old town and found myself at the Musée d'histoire de la Ville Luxembourg (The city history museum). The museum tells the history of the city from Roman times through years of un-inhabitation and then from its formal founding in 963 through to the modern day, though a large part of the museum was closed whilst they re-aligned the displays!
I walked down the hill from the museum, past the Bock and down into the gorge floor once again. After spending quite some time walking around the the Grund area (as the floor of the Gorge in the city centre is called) I caught the bus back to the station (which coincidentally meant I did not have to climb back up!) where I stopped for a very very late lunch. I caught the bus back out to the Bock and had a wander around the remains before descending down into the casemates below.
Luxembourg has often been described as the Gibraltar of the North. Up until the 19th Century, when most of the fortifications were demolished as Luxembourg gained its independence, the whole city was fortified with massive walls lining the sides of the Gorge and Kilometre and kilometre of tunnels dug into the soft rock. Today most of the tunnels have been destroyed, but nearly 17Km still exist and a small proportion of these are open underneath the Bock.
From the openings there are stunning views over the city and the surrounding landscape making it obvious how difficult it would be to attack the city. The tunnels don't just go along at a level they go along on multiple levels and there are lots of times when you think you may have reached the end of a tunnel only to discover a spiral staircase in a corner heading either up or down. The tour ends with you emerging onto a lower level of the bridge that the Bock stands beside.
I caught the bus back to the hotel to drop my bag and empty water bottles off before heading back out to grab some dinner.
After dinner I headed back out to the Bock in time to watch the sun go down over the fortifications.
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The main draw of the town is its Château. Left to fall into ruins over many centuries it has now been fully restored from ruins to what it looked like in its heyday. It sits on a large rocky outcrop over the town dominating the skyline and ensuring a long and exhausting climb to the top…
…Unless you are a lazy git like me, in which case you can catch the chair lift (Télésiège) to the top of the neighbouring hill, which also has stunning views over the town, the Château and the surrounding countryside. It is also then all down hill to the Château!
After looking around the Château and stopping for a brief Ice cream, I walked back down into town following the line of the former fortifications, which are now, also, in ruin.
With the sky darkening rapidly, and rumbles echoing around the valley I walked back to the bus station in time to catch the bus back to Diekirch. The bus arrived in the nick of time as a few minutes later the thunderstorm unleashed all it had with torrential rain, massive bolts of lightning, hail and a fierce wind. It was still going when the bus got to Diekirch so I stayed on the bus to the end of the line at Ettelbruck. Here I waited for the storm, which by now had been going on unabated for nearly an hour, to stop. As it showed on sign of doing so I caught the bus on to Echternach about 50 minutes away on the Luxembourg/German border.
By the time the bus arrive in Echternach the rain had stopped, the storm had passed, the roads had returned to being roads rather than raging torrents, and the sun was out.
I spent a little time wandering around the town before finding myself at the Basilica. The church, and attached abbey dominate the rest of the town. It contains the remains of the founder of the Abbey. The Abbey was founded in 698 by St Willibrord, an Anglo-Saxon missionary who came to the area from the North East of England (no one seams to be able to agree on whether it was Yorkshire or Northumbria he came from!)
After looking around the basilica and the remaining part of town (steadfastly avoiding the "Folk Festival" which was taking place in the grounds of the abbey and appeared to involve Morris dancers! I wandered back towards the bus station, but stopped for some dinner in one of the restaurants that line the pedestrianised main street.
Feeling rather full, I staggered the short distance back to the bus station in time to flop down into a seat on the bus back to Luxembourg, the hotel and my bed.
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The Château looks in good shape from the outside, but inside is a shell. There are excellent views of the valley and the river from the top of the main tower, and a small exhibition of archaeological remains on the first floor of the only surviving building. Bizarrely enough the top two floors have an exhibition on photographs of Ireland which took me a little by surprise.
After walking back up (and I do mean up) the hill to the bus stop I caught the bus back to Ettelbruck and from there on to Dillingen on the road to Echternach. I'd gone there as it was the closest I could get to the remains of the Château at Beaufort by public transport at that time of day (or so I thought, it transpired that there were semi-regular busses from Echternach!) In a disastrous case of misreading I saw the walking plan to get to the castle but didn’t spot that the path changes colour part way. Instead of a 5K round walk with a stop at the castle it transpired (by the time I got back) that it was 5K there and another 5K back. After an hours walking, with no Château in sight I turned back, convinced I had gone the wrong way and rushing to ensure that I caught the bus to ensure I got back to Luxembourg in time to get the train to Liege.
I got back to the bus stop in plenty of time and looked at the map at which point I spotted my mistake, and the fact that about two further bends around the path I would have come across the Château!
The bus whisked me on to Echternach where I caught the express back to Luxembourg in time to pick up some food for the train, my luggage and a ticket to Liege. By the time I collapsed into the seat on the train I was exhausted, and the blister on my left foot felt alarmingly large!
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I walked the short distance from the station to the hotel and checked in before collapsing onto my bed for a good nights sleep.
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I had a bit of a wander around the centre of the city before wandering down to the Mass to catch a boat tour along the river. The tour includes a stop about halfway along to take a tour of the caves at St Pietersburg. The caves have been formed by the mining of the limestone since the Roman times. Today the total number of passageways total over 200Km. The tour of the caves is only in Dutch and I understand precisely no Dutch. Even so it was still very interesting, and it doesn't take a genius to understand what is probably being said.
After the tour of the caves, I walked back to the mooring point to catch the remainder of the boat tour, getting back into central Maastricht almost three hours after setting out.
Before catching the boat I had popped into the tourist information centre and picked up a leaflet about walking around the city, and I now followed this self guided tour taking in most of the city sights including its fortifications, some of which are the oldest examples of such in the whole of the Netherlands. The tour also stops at the magnificent Basilica of our Lady which is more stunning for its outside, which looks almost castle like.
After spending nearly 3 hours wandering around the city centre and the fortifications (including a short stop for a late lunch!) I walked back to the station and caught the train back to Liege.
After popping back into the hotel to swap the Netherlands guidebooks for the Belgium guidebooks I headed back out again to take in some of the sights of Liege, whilst the rest of the population were safely indoors watching the world cup football!
The best way to see Liege is from the Citadel (or the remains of) which sits high on a hill overlooking the city centre and surrounding countryside. The views are spectacular, the only down side is to reach it you have to climb up. The easiest and least lung-bustingly painful is to take the Montagne de Bueren, a set of 373 steps that ascend up the side of the hill, steeply.
Having taken in the views (and recovered the ability to breath) I wandered back down and finished off by having a walk around the centre of the city before stopping in a little restaurant on the same square as the hotel for a spot to eat, retreating to bed just as the football fans all came spilling out flags waiving and car horns beeping (for the next 90 minutes!!)
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The main attraction in Coo is the waterfall, which is quite spectacular. Then to add to this attraction they added a chairlift which takes you up over the river into the hills above for stunning views of the area. This has then be much elaborated on and the area is now a theme park with rides and a small animal park, all of which can be seen with a day pass or by paying individually for each attraction by itself. In the end I decided the chairlift was enough for me (and at €6 quite expensive!)
After spending some time at the top station of the chairlift and stopping for a bite to eat in the fun park I wandered back to the station to catch the train back to Liege.
My original plan had been to get back into Liege about 3:45, which would have given me about an hour and a half's sightseeing time before I needed to pick up my luggage and catch the train to Brussels. Unfortunately this was without "An Incident involving the police at Liege Gare du Palais" which meant that I didn’t get to the station until almost 4:30, just enough time to have a look around the Cathedral before heading back to the station.
Thankfully I had built enough time in for getting back to Brussels to catch the last Eurostar of the day, because all the trains were still in chaos, trains kept changing platform with only a couple of minutes notice and trains would go from being on time to very late in a couple of seconds. In the end the train left almost a quarter of an hour late, not enough to have any major effect on making the connection in Brussels, but the constant appearing then disappearing from departure screens, and the regular platform changes were enough to give my heart a strong work out!
I arrived at Midi at the same time as checkin was opening, so was able to sail through and flop into a seat in the bar with a large beer, awaiting the call to board for the journey home.
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After a very quick trip through the airport (The restaurant I got breakfast in was working slowly so I had to run to the gate!) I settled down onto the plane for the first leg of my journey.
By 10:30 UK time (12:30 in Helsinki) I was sitting in my second departure lounge of the day with a nearly 2 hour wait for the flight to Tallinn.
After one of the shortest flights I have ever been on (only beaten by Guernsey to Alderney) I landed in Tallinn, zipped through the airport and got a cab to the hotel.
After checking in I wandered into town and up into the medieval old town on Toompea hill. Dotted along the edge at regular intervals are platforms that look over the rest of the city for stunning views.
Having wandered around the old town for over an hour I walked down into the lower part of the old town, to the town hall square and sought out a restaurant for dinner, before heading back to the hotel for an early night.
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First stop, once again was the old town, pausing at the Kiek in de Kök which houses a museum telling some of the history of Tallinn. From there I wandered slightly further up the hill to the Russian Orthodox cathedral of Alexander Nevsky. Much like the cathedrals in Riga and Helsinki, it is spectacularly decorated with more gold and bling than a South London gangster.
I walked back down the hill to the town hall. The building is the only Gothic town hall in Northern Europe and has been extensively restored over the last 50 years. The cellar is open as a museum on the history of the original building of the town hall, the next floors up are those used for public functions, and finally the attic has a display on the renovation.
After a brief pause for a spot of lunch I climbed the steps to the top of the town hall tower, from where there are stunning views of the city centre.
I had a short wander around the old town before heading over to the Occupation museum which tells the history of Estonia during it's occupation, first by the Nazi's and then by the USSR up to 21st August 1991 when, with an attempted coup going on in Moscow, it gained its independence once again.
From there I walked along the base of Toompea hill to the opposite end of the old town to visit a small part of the city wall that you can still climb up the towers and get to. From there I followed the walls round to the Miini muuseum which houses a display of the mines which have been dredged up (or carefully brought up in some cases) off the coast of Estonia, many used to form a barrier between Finland, Estonia and Russia over the last 100 years or so.
After looking around the museum I decided to head back to the hotel, as I was starting to feel quite ill again. I kicked off my shoes and lay back on the bed to watch a little bit of TV to see if I would feel better after a short while. 4 hours late I woke up feeling better than I had done all day, so I headed back into town for a late dinner.
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Next stop was St Olaf's Church. Once it's spire made it the tallest building in Europe. Today the top 30m or so of the spire have gone, and it’s been eclipsed by a lot of other buildings, but it's still impressive, as are the views from the top of it tower (after an interesting climb up the narrow and crumbling spiral staircase inside where you regularly meet people going in the opposite direction!
I wandered back through the old town to the bus station and picked up the bus out to the TV tower, about 4KM outside of the city centre in Pirita. From it’s viewing platform at 170m odd the views are stunning, with, on what was a very clear afternoon, the southern coast of Finland just visible in the distance. The TV tower is sighted just a couple of hundred meters from the botanical gardens and it was here I headed to next.
The gardens cover a large area, but, as was quite obvious from the TV tower, are mostly landscaped open spaces (given that the place spends quite a lot of the time under snow it’s hardly surprising). In the centre of the gardens are the greenhouses which all radiate off a new palmhouse in the centre.
Having spent not that long looking around I wandered back to the bus stop and caught the bus part of the way back to the ruins of St Bridget's Convent. The shell of the main building has survived almost intact with just the roof, windows and the entire inside missing! The rest of the site is mostly foundations.
I caught the bus back into the centre of town and went on one of the different hop-on-hop-off tours that run around the city.
When it got back into the city centre I caught the tram back to the hotel to drop stuff off and have a quick rest before heading back out for dinner.
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After a brief pause for a very late lunch I walked through the old town to the city museum which tells the history of the development of Tallinn from its founding through until the present day. The top floor of the exhibition focuses on, naturally, the period 1939-1991 when the country was occupied by the Soviets, then the Nazis then the Soviets again!
Just up the street from the city museum are the remains of a Dominican monastery. From the outside all you can see is a pretty standard looking small church in good repair, but this forms just one side of an inner courtyard, the remainder being made up of the remains of the monastery. One museum lets you look around the courtyard and ground floor level, another, for an additional entrance fee, the first floor of one of the buildings.
Having looked around these, and the nearby St Nicholas Orthodox church which is a really plain church on the outside, but a little gregarious inside! I caught the tram back to the hotel for a short rest before heading back into town for dinner and a wander through the streets at sort of dusk. By 10pm the light has started to go from the sky, and though it does get dark it doesn't get truly dark, at this time of year there is always a little bit of light in the sky. I was hoping to get some photos of the city from the top of Toompea hill. Unfortunately, the glorious weather of the day appeared to be giving way, rapidly, to a sea mist that was pouring in off of the Baltic making the whole place just grey, and slightly damp, so I headed back to the hotel for the night.
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After liberally covering myself, clothing, bag and hotel room in sun tan cream I headed into town. The tour was booked for midday, meet at 11:45, so with just over an hour to go until the meeting time I had a wander around the old town and stopped at the Holy Spirit Church which had been highlighted in the guidebook as worth visiting. The church is quite plane on the outside, but inside is an example of what happens if you give a wood carver enough time, money, wood and the use of his own discretion!
Having stopped to pick up some water for the trip I wandered to the meeting point for the Bike tour. The tour covers about 15-20KM mostly around the North West of the old town, taking in the old prison, a detour to the only submarine in Estonia and the flea market near the station before ending up back in the old town.
I had an extended very late lunch in the city centre before heading back to the hotel for a quick shower. I headed back into town, had a wander and then a very light dinner, given than lunch had been less then 3 hours before.
I caught the tram out to the end of the line at Kadriorg and walked the short distance to the beach. I stopped at the monument to a Russian ship which had gone down in the early part of the 20th Century and then walked a little further down the coast towards Pirita. From here there are stunning views back over the city centre with the spires of the churches and cathedrals of old Tallinn to one side and the gleaming columns of the 21st century Tallinn to the other.
The scene was made all the more picturesque as the sun was now just starting to descend beneath the horizon, disappearing beneath the Baltic throwing amazing shadows over everything.
With the sun set, but light still in the sky for nearly another hour I walked to the bus stop and caught the bus back to the hotel.
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It looked like everyone else had rushed as well. By 11:20 we were all buckled up, the doors had closed and the engines were about to start up. By 11:40, the time we were supposed to be pushing back in Tallinn we were making our final approach to Helsinki, 25 minutes early.
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After a short stop for postcards I wandered back to the fish market and caught the evening dinner cruise round the archipelago. This 2 1/2 hour tour goes round many more of the islands whilst at the same time you get served a three course meal (drinks extra as I found out at the end!)
At the end of the tour I caught the tram back to the hotel for a well earned sleep.
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After an event free if slow (2 hours to go a little over 160Km) journey I arrived in Turku and headed to the tourist information centre to buy a Turku card, having already worked out from the guidebook that the attractions I wanted to visit would cost more combined before I even added on travel costs. I caught the bus out of the centre of town, down river to the port to visit the maritime museum.
The museum is based in two buildings and three ships on the riverside. It contains all the usual models and exhibits on maritime life, most in Finnish and Swedish only. After looking around the museum and ships, and a quick lunch in the café, I walked the short distance down the road to the castle.
Originally built on a small island less than 800 years ago the land has risen so much that it's now several hundred meters inland and surrounded by grass rather than water (Southern Finland is rising by about 3mm a year or 3 meters a millennium, and with the entrance to the Baltic down to a narrow channel between Denmark and Sweden it is highly likely that in the future it will be possible to walk from Tallinn to Helsinki - though as it will take a few thousand years the ferry companies don't need to worry about their profits yet!)
The castle is a massive structure, that I was surprised to find in such good repair, until I found out on one of the exhibits that it was gutted by fire in the 18th Century, left to crumble from then on, then flattened during W.W.II before being completely rebuilt post war! There is masses to see with lots of random exhibitions dotted around the site, like a massive treasury stretching the whole of one side of the main building, the royal apartments, the archaeology of the town and, bizarrely, a museum on vandalism, modern culture and, squeezed into pride of place, Lordi the 2006 Finnish Eurovision winners (Hard Rock, Halleluiah?)
After looking around the castle I caught the bus back into town and wandered up to the Handicrafts museum. The museum is a folk park of traditional houses showing what life was like in the past. Unlike other parks (Riga, Skansen in Stockholm, Bygdøy in Oslo or Seurasaari in Helsinki) this isn't a collection of buildings brought together from around the nation. These buildings are in the same locations they were built on at the end of the 18th early 19th centuries. It was the only area to survive a massive fire that destroyed the rest of Turku in 1827 and after the city was rebuilt was scheduled for demolition. By the middle of the twentieth century nothing had happened so in 1940 the nation decided to preserve the area as a historical time capsule.
After looking around the museum I walked through (or more importantly up and over) the neighbouring park to the Cathedral. The Cathedral is an imposing building that is visible from most of the city (except those hidden by the massive hill in the middle of the park!) and is the key Cathedral in the country.
Having looked round the cathedral I wandered along the river back into the centre of town in time to catch the bus back to the station, grab a bite to eat in the café and make the mid-evening train back to Helsinki (another 2 hours!)
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First stop of the afternoon, because by the time I got to Tampere and walked through the city to it, it had gone 12, was the viewing tower towards the north of the city centre. The tower has now spawned a theme park beneath it, but the views from the top more than make up for the hoards of screaming children.
From there I walked back across the city to the Pyynikki ridge. At the top of the ridge is another, much older, viewing tower, and a café that serves "the best doughnuts in Tampere". After taking in the views I headed back into town to the spy museum.
The museum explains a little about espionage, especially during the cold war period, and displays some of the devices that have been used by spies.
From there I walked to the lake-side market and picked up the ferry to Viikinsaari an island in the lake which is owned by the city for recreation. It is very peaceful and quiet. I spent nearly an hour walking around the paths of the island and, apart from around the landing stage, barely met another person. The last ferry of the day back was at 1730 which left me just enough time for a quick bite to eat and then back to the station to catch the train back to Helsinki.
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Rovaniemi is the northern most international airport in Finland, the city is the capital of Finnish Lapland, and, more importantly, the airport is located at 66° 34’ 0” North or to put it less scientifically just north of the Artic Circle.
I got a taxi into the centre of Rovaniemi, which, thanks to the early start, was totally deserted as it was still only 9:30 on a Saturday morning. I wandered through the city centre for a while before reaching the church. The church itself is not particularly spectacular, though there are some interesting murals inside, but the whole city is remarkable for that fact that 60 years ago it was completely levelled by the retreating Germans, every building destroyed, the railway trashed and the roads impassable. Today you would assume that nothing had happened in the city as, apart from one small monument near the station, there are no reminders.
I walked back through the city centre, popping into the tourist information centre to see what there was to do in the city, before heading onto the Arktikum. This is a museum dedicated to the Artic, the Sami people who live across the region and to Rovaniemi itself. The museum is very interesting with lots of displays (all with English translations) and is a spectacular building itself stretching out along a glass arch towards the lake side.
After looking around the museum I walked back to the centre of town and caught the sightseeing train that goes round the city showing you the main sights. By the time it dropped me back in the city centre there was just enough time to walk to the bus station to catch the hourly bus to Santa’s Village. Not normally somewhere I would go, but as it is the site of the Arctic circle it was worth going out to.
So I found myself boarding a bus and asking for a “Single to the Artic Circle, Please” (and it’s not every day you get to say that!) The bus stops at Santa’s village which has to be one of Europe’s greatest tack-fests. I have never seen so many shops selling so much kitsch in such a small space before! However, running through the centre of the site is a large white line with the important sign painted on it, displaying itself to be 66° 32’ 35” or the Artic Circle, cue lots of pictures being taken of standing on circle, straddling circle etc. etc.
From the Artic circle it’s only about 2Km to the airport, and as I only had 90 minutes until I needed to check-in I decided it would probably be easier to walk there, rather than wait for the bus into town and come back out again. I got back to Helsinki at a little after 7pm and, after stopping back at the hotel to drop my stuff off, I headed out for some dinner.
By the time I had finished dinner it was rapidly approaching 11pm, and dusk (which is about as dark as it gets at this time of the year) was already in the sky. I decided to catch the ferry out to Suomenlinna, which runs until about 2am. The views from the ferry both heading out, and coming back as I stayed on it and came straight back, are spectacular with the strangest of lights in the sky making for some spectacular pictures.
I managed to catch the last tram of the evening back from the fish market back to the opera house and then walked the short distance back to the hotel and some much needed rest.
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I caught the same ferry as last night back over to Suomenlinna and wandered around the church and fortifications on the same island, which took more than an hour, then it was time to head back to the ferry, back to the station and off to the airport and the plane home.
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I arrived at Euston with plenty of time, so I relaxed in the sleeper lounge, well aware that the last time I did this it all ended horribly (see Eastern Lowlands).
The train started to board at 20:30, 45 minutes before it was due to depart. I walked down to the train, checked into my cabin and then went and sat in the lounge.
At 21:15 the train left Euston and at a little after 23:00 it passed through Stafford and spectacularly failed to break down! Safe in the knowledge that I had gotten further North than last time I went to bed to get some rest.
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By 7am I was up and the train was north of Dalwhinnie, ahead of time, and not noticeably broken! After a filling and leisurely breakfast eaten in bed it was time to get up and disembark at Inverness.
My train North from Inverness left at 10:39, so after buying the ticket, I had a wander around Inverness for a while before coming back to the station for a leisurely cup of tea and then boarded the train.
It's just over 150 miles north from Inverness to Thurso, which is as far North as you can go on a train in the UK, but as the line winds its way around the highlands, up to and then away from the coast it takes just a couple of minute short of 4 hours to reach Thurso.
On exiting the station the free Taxi to the ferry at John O'Groats was waiting so I loaded my bags and continued heading North. At 3pm I reached the most northerly point on the Mainland. April 2004 to August 2006 is one of the slowest Lands End to John O'Groats journeys, but then I hadn't really been planning to do that 2 years ago!
After spending nearly an hour kicking my heals at the UK's most northerly tourist trap the ferry arrived to take me yet further north to the southern tip of the southern most Orkney island, South Ronaldsway. The crossing was uneventful if slightly choppy and consequently we were a couple of minutes late into harbour (the only delay so far on my journey!) But that didn't matter as there was plenty of time for the connection with the bus.
The bus sped me yet further North over the Churchill Barrages, designed to protect the natural harbour that is formed by the Orkney Islands and the navy that was based there from everyone else, to Kirkwall. Then it was the matter of a short walk through the city centre and, at a little after 6pm, 23 hours after leaving home, and almost constantly travelling north I collapsed onto my hotel bed.
After unpacking and recovering myself with a cup of tea I headed back out to the town centre to have a brief wander around before stopping for a bite to eat and then back to the hotel to sleep in a non-rocking bed!
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The full-day tour was very interesting and well presented. First stop of the morning was the Unstan chambered cairn. From there it was a short drive to Maeshowe, possibly the most impressive burial mound in Northern Europe. The tomb is at the centre of a massive network of stone age sacred sites with two stone circles lying in a processional route towards it. Inside are carved runes from both the time of creation and later when the Vikings used it. The site itself dates back to approximately 3100BC making it older than the pharaohs pyramids in Egypt.
From there it was on to the Standing stones of Stenness. Originally a 12 stone circle there are now just 5 remaining, but the whole place has an air of mystique around it and I couldn't help feeling totally relaxed and de-stressed whilst in the centre of the circle. It was a short drive from there to the standing stones hotel where we had a spot of lunch before driving back past Stenness to the ring of Brodgar.
This is an even more impressive stone circle. Today 27 stones remain, but when it was built it would have had about 60 stones. From there we travelled onto Skara Brae on the coast.
Like Jarlsholf (see Shetland Islands) this Neolithic village laid under sand and earth for centuries before being revealed following a massive storm ripped off the covering land. Unlike Jarlshof, Skara Brae appears to have been abandoned about 2500BC and is consequently perfectly preserved. You can get a feeling of how the people of the time lived, in an almost subterranean life.
The land that Skara Brae now stands on is part of the Skaill estate, and the old house can also be visited.
Final stop of the tour was the Broch of Gurness on the North coast of the main island (Skara Brae being on the South). By the time Gurness was in use it was 300BC and times had moved on. No longer the small farming community leading their life with not much more than nature to fear. Gurness is a fortress with the villagers living around the central Broch that would defend the village when it was attacked from the sea. It is very clear to see that in the nearly 3000 years that separate them the standard of living for the inhabitants of Orkney had gone decidedly down hill.
At the end of a long, exhausting, but thoroughly enjoyable day I was dropped back at the cathedral in Kirkwall and walked back to the hotel to drop by bag off, before heading back out for dinner.
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The key point about the location of the distillery that I had forgotten to take into account was the phrase "on a hill", which, given that Kirkwall is at sea level for some reason involving it being a port or something similar, would involve climbing said hill. But despite that I reached the distillery in time to join one of the half hourly tours. Unfortunately, at the time of visiting they weren't distilling. It meant that many of the smells that you could expect aren't there, but it also means you can hear the tour guide. The tour is very similar to those that I have been on at the Old Jameson’s distillery in Dublin, the Old Middleton distillery near Cork and the Scottish Whiskey heritage society in Edinburgh. The key difference is rather than walking around a museum piece you are walking around a living, working distillery.
At the end of the tour there is the customary free sample of the "Water of life". With that coursing through my veins I hardly noticed the shower on my way back into the town centre. After a stop for an early lunch I wandered to the St Magnus Cathedral. The cathedral is an amazing building. Originally built in the 12th Century it's been adapted and expanded as many times as it has changed hands. Originally built as part of the Hamburg(!) diocese it was then transferred to Trondheim (Norway) until the Orkney and Shetland Islands were taken over by Scotland where they transferred to Scottish diocese, all of this before the reformation!
Opposite the cathedral are the ruins of the Bishops palace and the Earls palace. The Bishops palace was built for the bishops of the cathedral. The Earls palace was built for the Earl of Orkney and Lord of the Shetlands, Earl Patrick Stewart (see also Scalloway in Shetland.) He of the evil heart, murderous ways with the locals and eventual execution for treason - at this point I remember thinking to myself in Scalloway castle last summer that I must visit Orkney some time and see the palace there!
To avoid the next shower I dived into the Orkney museum which has displays on life in the Orkneys from the Stone age up to modern day with an eclectic range of items on display. After having looked round the museum, I wandered back through town to the bus station and caught the bus out to Stromness. The next largest town in the Orkneys and, also, the more major port (the long distance ferries from Aberdeen and Lerwick stop there). The town is very pretty and quite reminiscent of Lerwick. I had a wander through some of the streets and stopped at the Stromness museum which has an even more eclectic mix of exhibits on Lighthouses, the sunken German fleet in Scapa Flow (the body of water surrounded by the larger of the islands) and natural history with a large collection of stuffed animals and birds.
I wandered back to the bus stop, caught the bus back to Kirkwall, and then another out to the small island of Lamb Holm. During W.W.II the island was used to house Italian POWs, mostly captured in Northern Africa. They were put to work building the Churchill Barriers, and at the same time helped to build up the camp they were held prisoner in. They were granted two Nissan huts with which they built a small chapel. The chapel (Now known as the Italian chapel) still stands and is an amazing tribute to the work of the people who helped to build it.
After looking round the chapel I walked back to the main road and caught the bus back into Kirkwall for a well earned rest, and maybe a second small Highland Park!
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There are tours of the island on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays during the summer and I had pre-booked onto the Tuesday tour. The tour takes you the whole way around the island on the single road that runs round the edge. The entire route round the island is about 15 miles, and the tour lasts just over 5 hours, so you can imagine there is lots of time to take in the scenery and the sights.
There are lots of stops around the island for photo opportunities including where the seals usually lie out on the beach (though there were very few today) and at the many archaeological sights around the island. There are 163 recorded sights on the island, ranging from Viking back to Neolithic, with lots of cairns and tombs, broch's and other dwellings. Many of the remains you can see are older that the Pyramids and with the number of sites that there are, you can understand why Rousay is also known as the Egypt of the north.
One of the major sights is Midhowe Broch and Cairn. The burial tomb is one of the largest and a spectacular structure. The next-door Broch (which is about 3000 years younger, but still just scraping into BC!) is also spectacular with hand carved ditches and channels in the rock it is built on as further protection.
A large number of Viking (and earlier) remains are along the next mile or so of coast line, and a pleasant (or at least I assume it would be when it’s not pouring down) walk along the shore line takes you past these, many marked with information boards. The entire walk from leaving the mini-bus, walking down (and it is definitely down!) the 500m or so to the Broch, looking around and walking along the shore walk takes a little under two hours and as we emerged onto the main road again from the shore front we were met by the minibus to continue the tour.
The final couple of stops of the day are at three more cairns along the southern part of the island. The most interesting of the three is Tavershoe Tuick which is a two tier tomb. There is a lower tomb which has its own access and an upper tomb.
After looking around all the sites we were dropped of back at the ferry terminal with enough time for a bite to eat and a drink in the restaurant/bar before the ferry back to Tingwall and then the bus back to Kirkwall for a change into some dry clothes!
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I caught the bus out to the airport and the plane down to Aberdeen. This was my third visit to Aberdeen airport, but the first time I had actually left the terminal building. I picked up the bus to the station in the centre of Aberdeen where I dropped off my luggage before heading off into the city to do some sightseeing.
First stop was the old Tolbooth house which now houses the Aberdeen civic history museum which has small displays on the growth of Aberdeen, the Tolbooth itself, the life of an Aberdeen PC and crime (reflecting the Tolbooth's previous existence as a prison)
After looking around the Tolbooth I wandered around the corner, just in time to catch the hop-on-hop-off open-top tour of Aberdeen. The tour takes in the main parts of Aberdeen and has a comprehensive pre-recorded guide, though the city's traffic appear to have serious effects on both time keeping and producing long quiet periods.
The next stop was the Provist Skene's House. This is one of the few medieval buildings that survive in Aberdeen and the interiors have been reconstructed to show what life was like at various times during the buildings existence.
The final stop was at the maritime museum which has lots of displays on shipping and for some reason that escapes me now North sea oil... Then it was back to the station to pick up my luggage and back onto the train for the next leg of my journey, closing the loop that had started by heading north to Thurso, I caught the train west, back towards Inverness and the sleeper south.
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At a little after 7am with breakfast by my bed we passed through Harrow and past the tube, signifying most defiantly the entry into London. 15 minutes early the train pulled to a halt in Euston station and I headed towards the front of the station and the bus home to a hot shower and then work for 10:30!
As I got in through the door my watch chimed 9am, 23 hours and 45 minutes after checking out of the hotel in Kirkwall I was back at home.
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Just around from the hotel is the Gloria lift (more a funicular than a lift) which takes you up to the park at São Pedro de Alcântara. Unfortunately, the neighbouring Rossio station is currently closed whilst they carry out repair works on the tunnel that leads into it, and as the lift goes over the top of it, it has been closed until the work is done, so instead I had to climb up. The park is also closed for renovation so this wasn't the greatest of starts, though the views across the city from the street are well worth it in themselves.
The park is in the upper town and I had a wander through here until I reached the Elevador de Santa Justa. This is a proper elevator and was built by a pupil of Gustav Eiffel (and it shows). On the top of the lift is a two storey platform, from where you can get more stunning views over the city.
I caught the lift back down and wandered back to Rossio and caught the tram out to Belém. The town is packed with sights, but at this time of night they were all closed, but that didn't matter as I took pictures of them, with the river and the sun setting into it.
After spending the best part of an hour wandering around Belém I caught the tram back into Lisbon, grabbed a bite to eat and turned in for the night.
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Lisbon has open-top sightseeing buses, but they also have sightseeing trams and it was this that I caught. The tram, an original from the 1960’s goes round the city up and down many of the hills that the city is built on, and past large numbers of the main sights including the castle and cathedral.
After finishing the tour I caught the normal tram back along to the top of one of the hills to take in some of the views of the city. I spent some time taking pictures from the various view points near the castle before heading the short distance down the hill to the Cathedral.
The cathedral is striking for it’s look. If you didn’t see the large rose window in the centre you would be convinced that from the front it was a mighty fortress or castle, even the towers are crenulated! Inside the cathedral is quite dark, with not much to see, but for a charge you can go out into the cloister at the back, which has been dug up to reveal over 2000 years of settlements, with Roman streets underneath Moorish dwellings.
I would like to claim that I wandered the short distance up to the castle, but I am lazy and it is quite a steep hill, and I am on holiday, so I caught the bus! The castle is perched on the top of castle hill and has stunning views over the city centre and surrounding countryside. Inside the grounds the shell of the castle is all that remains, but you can climb up the ramparts for further views over the city. There is also a small multi-media exhibition on the history of Lisbon.
I caught the bus back into the centre of town and wandered out to Cais do Sodré station to catch the train along the coast to Cascais. The town is effectively Lisbon-on-Sea and has miles of stunning beaches. Just outside of the town centre the landscape changes to small cliffs, and slightly further on is the Boca do Inferno, literally “Mouth of Hell”, a square opening in the cliffs which has been warn away by the waves which sucks water in forces it back out again with spectacular results.
After catching the bus back to Cascais station and the train back into Lisbon it was time for a spot of dinner and then I caught the tram up into the Bario Alto or upper old town to have a wander in the twilight and early night before catching the funicular back down to the lower town and the tram back to the hotel.
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From Sintra station I caught the bus out to the spectacular Palácio de Pena. The palace is built on the top of the highest hill in the area and has stunning views. The palace is stunning in itself with several different building styles and colours having gone into it. It is also one of the busiest tourist attractions in Portugal and consequently to look round you have to join the back of a large and slow moving queue. However it was worth it as many of the rooms are spectacular and the information boards tell you a lot about the history of the palace.
From the palace it was a short walk down the hill to the Castelo dos Mouros or Moorish castle. This is perched on the top of the next highest hill and again has stunning views. The only parts of the castle that remain are the outer defence walls, but you can climb up them to take in the views (though not particularly good if you have vertigo as they only have castle on one side!)
After looking around the castle I wandered back to the bus stop to catch the bus back into Sintra. Unfortunately, the buses, despite being quite regular, are also quite small and very very popular. Consequently I had to let two pass and waited more than 45 minutes before I finally managed to get on one, in the end it would have been as quick to walk back into town!
In town is another palace this time the Palácio Nacional. This is a less interesting palace than the Palácio de Pena, but there is still lots to see including the kitchens with their strange double chimneys, making the back of the palace look a little like a Kentish hop house.
I walked back to Sintra station and caught the train back to Lisbon and dinner. After stopping off at the hotel for a while I caught the bus out to the end of the 28 tram route to catch it through the city in twilight. Thankfully I was the only person who had thought of this so I managed to get a good seat and three stops later the tram was full. As it was evening and the roads were quiet the tram rattled up and down the hills at quite some speed! By the time it reached the Cathedral it was almost dark. I stayed on it, much like the rest of the passengers, almost all doing exactly what I was (I don’t quite know how the locals get around given all the tourists hogging their trams) to the end of the route and then caught the bus back to the hotel.
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The statue of Christ standing over Rio de Janeiro is one of the most famous sights in the world. In the 1950’s a small but similar statue was built on the hill on the opposite side of the river from Lisbon to give thanks that Portugal managed to stay out of the second world war. The statue, despite being smaller than the one in Rio is still massive. A lift runs up one side of the tower to the actual base of the statue, some 150m up. From there you can get stunning views of the city of Lisbon and out as far as Cascais and Sintra. Just below the viewing station you can also visit one of the worlds greatest tacky gift shops with glow in the dark statues just one of the delights available for purchase!
I caught the bus and ferry back to Lisbon and then the Metro out to the Parque das Nações. This was originally the sight of the World Expo is 1998 and has now been turned into a large exhibition and open space for the city. From the site you can also see the whole length of the stunning Vasco de Gama bridge, which at 17KM long is one of the longest in the world.
The site is massive and the easiest way to take it in is to catch the Cable Car that runs along the water front from the Oceanarium to the Vasco de Gama tower (which was sadly closed when I visited). After having found that the tower was shut I wandered over to one of the restaurants for some lunch before catching the cable car back to the Oceanarium.
Oceanário, the Lisbon Oceanarium is the second largest in the world and the largest in Europe, as they keep reminding you every couple of meters! Inside the massive tank contains thousands of species and it is spectacular. If it was not for the sheer number of people, you could spend hours standing transfixed at the tank as all the marine life floats past. The main tank occupies the centre of the building, in the four corners are smaller tanks that have different habitats (Indian Ocean, Artic etc) with both Marine and non-marine life, including in one tank some very noisy and playful beavers.
After looking around the Oceanarium I walked back to the metro station and caught the metro back into town. After a short wander around the city centre I walked down to the Praça do Comércio and picked up one of the two open top bus tours that Carris (the tram and bus company) run around the city.
The Olicipio tour runs up the coast from the Praça do Comércio back to the Parque das Nações (D’oh!) and then back through the top of the town before coming down through the Bario Alto and back to the Praça do Comércio.
After the tour I stopped for a small dinner before heading back to the hotel.
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The Basilica is the second most important church in Portugal and is an impressive domed structure. Inside it is quite dark, but filled with lots of paintings.
After looking around the Basilica I wandered back to the Bario Alto and to the ruins of the Convento de Carmo. The roof and parts of the walls were destroyed in the earthquake that almost totally flattened Lisbon on 1st November 1755. The building now houses the an archaeological museum which displays many finds from across the city.
After a leisurely dinner I wandered back to the Praça do Comércio in time to catch the last Tagus tour of the night. The last tour in July, August and September sets off at 20:15 and consequently runs through the city and dusk and into the night. Following the heat of the day it was still in the high twenties as the bus went round the city, but with the wind from the movement it made for a very pleasant end to the day.
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I wandered down to the station at Cais do Sodré and caught the train out to Belém, figuring that being right by the river would be more pleasant than in the city centre.
First stop was the Monument das Descobertas. Built as part of a world exhibition held in Belém in the 1940’s it shows some of the most important figures in Portuguese maritime history, topped by Vasco de Gama and Henry the Navigator (the two that everyone has heard of). The monument is hollow inside and houses two exhibition floors, one which tells the story behind each of the figures, and one which tells the story of the exhibition and building of the tower. You can also, as I did, catch the lift to the very top of the monument and go onto the roof for stunning views across Belém, the Ponte 25 de Abril (Looks like the Golden gate bridge), Cristo Rei and Lisbon.
Next stop, a hefty 10 minutes walk along the river front was the tower of Belém or Torre de Belém. Originally built in the middle of the river as a defensive structure it sort of lost its purpose when the course of the river shifted after the 1755 earthquake, and it now finds itself a couple of metres off the bank at Belém. The tower is one of the most famous symbols of Portugal and once again offers stunning views over the surrounding area from its roof.
From the Torre de Belém I caught the tram back a couple of stops to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The church is quite impressive, but absolutely heaving with tourists. The cloister is even more impressive and as you have to pay to get into it quite a lot quieter. The cloister is bizarrely two storeys high and includes an exhibition which charts the history of monastery, Lisbon and Portugal over the last 500 years. You can also access from here the upper choir of the church, which gives you stunning view inside the church, and of the herds of tourists below!
Just outside the monastery is the starting point for the Belém land train which runs around the town centre taking in all the main sights before climbing into the hills above the town for more views of the river, before returning back to the monastery.
I wandered back to the tram stop and caught the tram back to Lisbon and wandered down to the Panteão Nacional (or the Church of Santa Engrácia to give it its religious title).
The Panteão is the most important church in the country and is where some of the leading lights in Portuguese history are laid to rest. In the main body of the church, the tombs of the country’s greatest Poet lies along side that of Vasco de Gama and Prince Henry the Navigator. Inside rooms are the tombs of more important figures.
You can climb the stairs (or take the lift) to the 2nd floor for views from the gallery over the centre of the church and up to the dome. Continuing up the stairs you reach the base of the dome and the outside terrace from where there are yet more stunning views of Lisbon.
By the time I got back down to the bottom of the church it was time head back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and head for the airport.
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The train left on time, but managed to loose 5 minutes before it even got to Reading. For most of the rest of the journey it was OK, but beyond Exeter it was held up for another 20 minutes as one track was closed through Dawlish due to storm damage. It is easy to see how. The line not so much hugs the coastline as goes paddling in it. The wind was quite light, but with high tide the waves were crashing over the sea wall and onto the Cornwall bound tracks. The previous evening the storm had managed to wash away part of the foundations for the Cornwall track, which was causing the delays to get through.
The ride down is very scenic, made even more so by the speed of the journey beyond Exeter. Leaving London at 3pm we reached Exeter in a little over 2 hours. The rest of the journey through the remainder of Devon and down into Cornwall was scheduled to take another 2 hours, but in the end took almost three as the line meanders its way across the countryside.
By the time I arrived in St Austell it was already dark and I was tired, so I was a lazy git and instead of walking the mile to the hotel (all down hill!) I got a cab.
After checking in I went up to the room, collapsed onto the bed and decided that it was probably best to get changed for bed now as the chances of still being awake in a hours time were limited. I was right, I never heard my watch bleep for 10pm.
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I walked the short distance (I think the hotels estimation of 1 mile from the station was a little out) back up to the station and caught the bus out to Mevagissey and onto the Lost Gardens of Heligan.
The gardens were laid out during the 18th and 19th century, but fell into disuse and disrepair during the 20th century. They were finally restored in the 1990's by the same people who went on to found the Eden project. The gardens, designed like a jungle, cling to the side of a steep hill that leads down to a small valley at the base of the gardens. At the flatter top of the site more formal gardens have been laid out. After spending more than two hours wandering around the gardens I wandered back to the bus stop and caught the bus back to St Austell and managed to make the five-minute connection with the bus out to the Eden project.
The china-clay industry has left some massive scars on the Cornish countryside, with the large pits where they mined the most obvious example. It was into one of these that the idea of the Eden project was born. The base of the pit has been cleaned, two massive Biomes (like greenhouses, but made out of a plastic that allows UV light through rather than glass) have been built. Up the sides of the pit are the outside Biome, examples of flora that grow in the warm climes of Cornwall. The two biomes are split into the slightly uncomfortable Humid Tropic biome with its cocoa, banana and pineapple plants, amongst others, and the more climatically comfortable Warm Temperate biome that houses plant species from Mediterranean and temperate climes.
The whole area is very impressive, especially as everything was new less than seven years ago (about the only Millennium project that opened on time, within budget, and is popular!). You can still see where some plants are still developing, and the odd space which has yet to be cultivated, but it also makes it the kind of place that you want to go back to in a few years time to see how it has matured.
After spending nearly three hours in a China-Clay pit, I caught the bus back into St Austell and caught the train out to Redruth. The plan was to pick up the bus at Redruth out to Lizard point (the most Southerly point on mainland UK, not to be confused with Lands End, the slightly more famous most South-Westerly point on mainland UK). Unfortunately, thanks to a small gaggle of already drunk Cornish teen girls blocking the footbridge briefly, I missed the bus and with it any chance of making the trip. The next bus, and hour later would have got me to the Lizard and back, but only after the Sun had set, and by the time I would have got back to Redruth I would have missed the last train back to St Austell. Instead, I had a short wander around Redruth, decided it was a bit of dump and walked back to the station to wait the 35 minutes for the next train.
I arrived back in St Austell and wandered through the town. At a little after seven on a Saturday evening the place was deserted. Totally and utterly deserted. There wasn't even a drunk lying on a bench. I don't know where the population of St Austell go on a Saturday, but it's obviously not the town centre.
I arrived back in St Austell and wandered through the town. At a little after seven on a Saturday evening the place was deserted. Totally and utterly deserted. There wasn't even a drunk lying on a bench. I don't know where the population of St Austell go on a Saturday, but it's obviously not the town centre.
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There are two major issues I have with Cornwall. One is the fact that the public transport, whilst reliable, isn't particularly regular, especially on a Sunday. First train south from St Austell on a Sunday isn't until gone 10 and the period between busses can be measured in Archaeological ages. The other problem is the total lack of any left luggage facilities, anywhere. There were none in Penzance; there are none in St Austell, Truro or Falmouth. In the end I spent the entire day lugging around a backpack with three days clothes, books, wash bag and other related paraphernalia.
I arrived in Falmouth (just 20 odd miles from St Austell) at a little after 12:30, more than two hours after leaving the hotel (If it wasn't for all the hills it might just have been quicker to have walked.) From Falmouth Docks station it was a short, if hearty walk, up hill to Pendennis Castle. Built by Henry VIII the castle remained in active service until 1956 when it was handed to what is now English Heritage. The castle is of the same design, and building programme as Portland, Deal and Walmer castles (See Weymouth and Days Out), and of St Mawes, it's sister that sits the other side of the Fal providing an almost impenetrable fortress across the harbour.
Having looked around the castle I wandered down into Falmouth and caught the ferry across the river to St Mawes and the castle there. Unlike Pendennis which is high on a cliff, St Mawes is almost at sea level, which meant it could fire cannons that would hole a ship on its waterline. The castle is also the only building on the site, unlike Pendennis which has had many extra buildings added and earth embankments built.
After looking around the castle, and a short wander around the town I walked back to the harbour and caught the ferry back across to Falmouth. I had a wander through Falmouth for a while, before heading back to the station and Truro.
By the time I arrived in Truro, the capital of Cornwall, and it’s only city, it was gone six, so everything had closed. However, I had a pleasant wander through the streets and took some photos of the Cathedral and city centre. I stopped for a bit to eat and had a further wander in the dusk, before climbing back up to the station for the short (hour and a half) wait for the sleeper, desperately trying not to fall asleep on the platform.
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Eventually, a train did arrive, at got me to Gatwick a little after 4. I zipped through to the terminal building and to the zone where my flight was checking-in to see a massive queue, stretching half way across the terminal. Thankfully, it was for the flight to Billund, so I was able to walk straight up to the counter and check in for Bergen. I picked up some pre-ordered Norwegian Krone and joined the back of the very long queue through security.
Given the number of people queuing, I was surprised that it took less that 20 minutes to get through to the departures lounge. Sadly, by now I only had bout 35 minutes until my flight was due to start boarding so I grabbed a sandwich, sat, and ate that. In the end, I had nearly an hour as they were late calling the flight, which meant that I could have had a proper dinner!
After an uneventful flight I touched down in Norway at a little after 9, working out which limb I was going to offer up as payment for the taxi into town, as the last airbus of the evening was in less than 20 minutes. 12 minutes after touching down, rather to my surprise, I found myself, with luggage (having shot through immigration, baggage reclaim, and customs) boarding the airbus - even more surprising given that I was one of the last people off.
The bus dropped me off in the centre of town, from where it was a five-minute walk to the hotel, then a short walk across the street to the other building, as the hotel now covers both sides of the road, and into my room.
After a quick unpack I collapsed into bed for some well-earned rest.
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I had a wander through the city centre and out to the station where I collected my tickets for my trip to Flåm on Saturday. I then wandered back into the centre and on to the most historic part of the city, Bryggen
This tight collection of buildings and small lanes was home to the Hanseatic (see Riga, Lübeck, Hanover, Bremen, Krakow...) merchants, who turned Bergen into the most important city in Norway, and one of the most important cities in Europe. All the buildings are timber and are literally floating on a timber raft anchored at the edge of the Fjord. They all have an olde worlde feel to them and a distinct lean. Sadly this final feature is a more modern problem. In 1944, whilst Norway was occupied, a German munitions boat exploded in the harbour destroying most of the castle area and severely damaging the Bryggen.
Wandering through the tiny alleyways you finally find yourself at a not particularly appealing concrete building. This is the Bryggen museum. It tells the history of the area, the Hanseatic traders, and has remains of several further buildings from the area, dating back to the 12th Century left in situ where they were discovered (the building was built around them, which partly excuses some of its less than brilliant architecture)
From the museum it's a short walk further down the harbour side to the Bergenhus, the side of the city castle. Only a few buildings remain now, and they all had to be rebuilt following the 1944 explosion. On a Thursday in October the only building that is open is the Håkonshallen, sadly this doesn't open until the late afternoon, so instead, given the weather had taken a short breather I walked back to the centre of town and caught the funicular railway up to Fløyen. The views from the top are spectacular, not only of the city laid out beneath you, but also across the fjords that stretch away from the city.
After about 20 minutes the weather started to close in again so I caught the train back down the hill and popped back to the hotel for a while to dry off.
A little later, and only once the Håkonshallen was actually open, I wandered back out from the hotel over to it. The hall is the main remnant of the old castle, and the top floor, a massive open space with a proper Norwegian hammer beam roof, is spectacular. By the time I left the castle the sun was (or at least would have been had it ever managed to break through the clouds) setting, so I decided to hop on the Fløibanen again and get some photos of Bergen in the dusk.
Once again, after about 20 minutes the weather started to close in, though this time accompanied by a wind that appeared to want to make me make the 320m descent faster than 8 minute train trip! I wandered back through the town, stopped for a Norwegian grilled sausage (I was still quite full from breakfast) and then headed back to the hotel, for a quiet evening and an early night.
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First stop, at the top of a particularly steep hill, in the university quarter was the Johanneskirken, a red brick church which has impressive views over the city and fjords. The church itself is quite plain on the inside, or looked as much through the closed doors, it appears to only be open for very limited hours (which don't appear to include Sundays!). The church stands at the end of the main street which runs down to the fish market, and from it's elevated position offers stunning views. I meandered back through the city to the Cathedral.
The cathedral is a much plainer church from the outside, and according to the guidebooks is similarly plain inside, sadly it was closed, with no indication that it had any intention of opening. I wandered back along the lanes at the back of the Bryggen to the Mariakirken, the oldest church still in use in the city, and one of the oldest in the country. According to the guidebooks it is well worth looking around.
For the third time in the morning my attempts to visit something were thwarted. This time as I approached the church I spotted that there was a hearse and funeral cars parked outside. No matter how impressive the church, I'm not about to go blundering into someone's funeral to have a look, so I decided to give it a miss, which is a shame as the church is only open for 90 minutes a day Tuesday to Friday. I was left wondering how the people of Bergen go to church if all the churches are shut on Sunday?
I walked back along the Bryggen to the Fish market, and finally found something open. The Hanseatic museum is based in an old merchant’s house and has exhibitions spread over three floors. The ground floor shows what the storeroom would be like, with displays on the different products that they traded. The first floor tells some history of the league, as well as having examples of rooms that the merchants, and their servants, would have lived in. On the top floor are further rooms and an exhibit on the trading that went on inn Bergen (almost all Cod based including, inexcusably, cod-liver oil) Walking around the building you have to remind yourself that you are not actually drunk as none of the floors are level and there isn't a single right angle in the whole place.
By the time I left the museum it was early afternoon and I had achieved a visit to only one attraction and a lot of finding things closed. Sadly, at this point a quick flick through the Bergen guide showed that this was unlikely to be rectified. Bergen is most definitely a summer city. By late October the museums that are still open are usually only open for a couple of hours! Instead, as it was such a pleasant day, I thought I would catch the bus out to the cable car that goes up to Mount Ulriken, at 642m the highest of the seven peaks that surround Bergen.
After tracking down the bus (turned out to be the sole trolley-bus route) I caught it out to the hospital on the edge of town where the signs point to the cable car station. A strenuous 10 minutes walk later I found myself at the lower station and confronted by a sign "Due to poor weather conditions on the mountain the cable car is closed". At this point I decided that the rest of the afternoon was probably best written off, caught the bus back into town and went back to the hotel to read a book until it was time for dinner!
Sadly, even this proved to be a task too far, even with no lunch, no snacks and only a can of cola all day, Breakfast was still causing through my veins and other internal bits, and by 7pm I still didn't feel like a full meal. Instead, I popped out to take a wander around the city at night, picked up a sandwich from a seven eleven and collapsed back into bed for an early night a little after 9pm!
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Getting to Flåm is one of the most impressive and breathtaking journeys you can take. From Bergen the normal Norwegian train runs along the edge of the Fjords for a while, passing through countless tunnels and crossing back and forth over rivers until it turn inland and rises to a plateau in the mountains. In late October you can see the snow line approach, and then by the time you get off the train at Myrdal it looks like Winter has taken a very firm grasp. From here the journey gets even more spectacular.
The Flåmsbana runs the 20Km from Myrdal at 864.3 metres above sea level to Flåm at sea level. Dropping at gradients of 1 in 18 (the steepest gradient of any normal railway on the planet), curving round on itself including doing a full 180° turn in a tunnel inside the mountain. At one point you can look across and see the railway at Myrdal, and at two different levels on the side of the mountain. Part way down the train stops at a small gap between two tunnels by a massive waterfall with an opportunity for the passengers to get off and take photos.
After the journey down there is very little that Flåm could do to match the trip. Instead it cashes in on the tourist market with a selection of souvenir stalls and shops which is only surpassed in my experience by Tat Land (AKA Santa park, Rovaniemi, Finland). If your flabber has not been too gasted by now you can top the sensory (and credit card) overload off with an alternative return to Bergen by way of a fjord ferry and then bus. Given that the return ticket price on the train was only a little more than the single I had already decided that it would be financially more prudent to come back the way I came.
The added advantage of doing this was that I could spend the journey down looking out of one side, and the journey back out of the other (the better views on the whole are from the left hand side). Back at Myrdal I had a fifteen minute wait for the train back to Bergen, where I contemplated the folly of wearing clothing that was fine at 9C in Bergen and Flåm, but a little too thin in the sub zero temperatures of Myrdal. Thankfully, the sun was still just out, and there was no wind so it wasn't too bad.
By 7pm I was back in Bergen and after stopping to have a look around the Bryggen at night (not that much, they don't floodlight it!); a quick sandwich (Once again Breakfast was almost enough for the night); and discovering that you can't buy any beer except alcohol free after 6pm on a Saturday in the Fjord areas, I headed back to the hotel for another gloriously long sleep, extended even further by the final act of summoning winter, the clocks going back.
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Given the extra hour in bed I had an even larger breakfast, and witnessed several guests get the dawning sensation that they had missed out on an hour extra in bed as the "no it's ten, no it's not it's nine" conversations went on.
After a leisurely breakfast I left the hotel and wandered out to the Bryggen. Behind the main blocks are three small buildings, which were knocked together into one several hundred years ago to act as communal halls and administration offices for the Hanseatic merchants, the Schøtstuene. After a short stop to look around some of the souvenir shops at the front of the Bryggen, only because it was pouring down at this point, I wandered over to the Bergenhus to visit the Rosenkrantztarnet, the main defensive building in the fort, and in October only open for three hours on a Sunday. The tower, completely rebuilt to the original medieval layout after the destruction of the 1944 explosion, has several floors starting at fjord level in the Kitchens and Dungeons (where the toilets are conveniently located) and climbing up through the tower to the roof for, even on a now very wet day, stunning views over the city, and if they weren't shrouded in both the previous and next showers, the surrounding mountains.
From the fort it was a soggy 15 minute walk back across town to the University and the two main museums over there (the third museum, the maritime museum, closed for the day whilst I was still in the first museum!). The Natural histories collection houses the universities zoological and geological exhibits, including several very impressive skeletons of whales, and a scary number of stuffed animals (though on closer inspection some of the exhibits, which are all looking a little past their prime, appear to be wire and wood frames, so it may not have been as eco-systemically catastrophic as I had first feared.
Around the corner from the Natural History Collection is the Cultural History collection which has exhibits on the Vikings, church art, ethnography, Egyptian mummies and Henrik Isben (the famous Norwegian playwright who lived in Bergen for a while)
By the time I left the museum, just on Kicking out time at 4pm the light was starting to fade, and the rain had taken on monsoon qualities. I took a short, but very wet walk back to the hotel to dry off and see if the rain would let up.
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The Aquarium is based on the end of a spit of land that sticks out into the Fjord, a 15 minute walk from the Hotel. Unfortunately, this spit of land is made up of a big hill that I didn't know about, otherwise I would have walked into town and along the shorefront rather than up the middle.
The Aquarium has the usual selection of species from around the globe, as well as three seals and a small penguin family. There is also, for some unknown reason, a display of creepy-crawlies and spiders.
From the Aquarium I wandered back into town and had enough time to wander up to the Maritime museum which I had missed the previous day. The museum has exhibits explaining the history of seafaring in Norway from Pre-Viking times up to today’s oil tankers and cruise liners.
By the time I left the museum it was a little before half twelve, my flight was in less that 4 hours and I knew it would take at least 30 minutes to get to the airport, so I decided to head back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and head for the airport. In the end, I was quite thankful as there was a massive queue on the road out of Bergen, and it took nearly an hour to get out to the airport.
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After spending a significant part of the afternoon firstly in the pub, then queuing to get through security at Gatwick, I arrived in the departures lounge to find that everything, except the bars, were closing for the evening! I decided, thankfully, against any more booze and instead concentrated on consuming as much expensive French water as my wallet could allow.
It still lead to a particularly uncomfortable (though part of that was turbulence outside of the plane, rather than inside of me) flight. By the time I arrived in Manchester, not that I knew it at that point, the worst had passed.
After a relatively swift trip from plane to bags I then encounter possibly the longest walk ever to get to the “Integrated Airport Railway Station”. It was nearly 10 minutes of walking before I finally got a glimpse of a ticket office and tracks!
An uneventful journey later I arrived in Manchester Piccadilly, to repeat the same process all over again, as the platforms for trains from the Airport are positioned somewhere closer to Cardiff than to Manchester!
By the time I got to the hotel, a further 5 minute walk away, I had worn off any alcohol that was still in my system, and after a very large glass of water from the bar, collapsed into bed and sleep.
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The evening was spent getting quite drunk with other members of the conference
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Up to Manchester Piccadilly and then out on the train to Lancaster. Once the most important town in the region, the central focus for the county of Lancashire, which once boasted Liverpool and Manchester as small towns within it. The city now is somewhat dominated by its larger southern children, but is still a very pleasant small city.
Perched on hill, above the railway station, is the Castle. Uniquely, it is still a working prison, the only castle in the country still fulfilling this duty, and court complex, as well as being an historic building that can trace it’s current structure back 900 years to King John, and the site nearly 2000 years to the Romans.
Saturday, in the end, turned out to be the best day to visit. With the local crown court on site it is only possible to visit the court rooms and some of the old cells when they are not sitting, it’s not possible at all to visit the existing cells, without getting a criminal record!
Access around the castle is by guided tour, and the tour guide gives a good background to the history of the castle, it’s use as a prison and a court. There are displays on the methods of punishment used during the ages, as well as a visit to the site of the public executions (now the jury room, which is a little concerning)
I had a look around the area near the castle, taking in the Priory church (closed) and the remains of the Roman Baths (un-locatable!) I wandered back to the station to catch the train out to the seaside resort of Morecambe.
However, by the time I arrived in Morecambe the weather had deteriorated by quite a bit. What had been bearable light drizzle was now heavy driving rain with hailstones mixed in and a powerful wind, enough to stop you in your tracks and make walking difficult. I struggled the hundred yards or so from the station to the seafront, but then (now totally soaked) had to give up and walked back to the train to dry off.
It was still “Interesting” weather by the time I got back to Lancaster so I decided to call it a day and head back to Manchester, which in the end proved to be a good idea. The journey to Lancaster may have only taken a little over an hour; the journey back took nearly three with speed restrictions in place because of the weather!
Still slightly damp, despite all the time in the warm train, I headed back to the hotel to dry off, warm up and then have dinner.
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Off the Piccadilly, again, this time instead of heading north to Lancaster it was time to go south to Chester. The county town of Cheshire, possibly one of wealthiest counties in the UK, it’s the kind of city that the guidebooks can’t help but moan about because it’s besieged by tourists (I’m sure there is an irony in there, but it’s late and I’ve just had two pints!) Chester could be summed up in one concept. Take York and slap it down on the west coast near the Welsh border.
Ancient city walls that stretch, almost unbroken around the city, Check. Roman city with Viking credentials, Check. Castle that has been replaced by a Georgian palace which is now a court, Check. Large river, Ouse in York, Dee in Chester, Check. The only difference is that York is a little to far south to have had its history affected by rampaging Scots. Chester and the Welsh are a different story.
Chester station is conveniently located the best part of a mile from the city centre, thankfully my ticket included free bus transfer. When buying the ticket it explains there is a bus every 6 minutes, they forget to add the condition “Mondays to Saturdays” on Sunday there is only a bus every 30 minutes, not that the 15 minute wait for the next scheduled bus put me off waiting. In the end I would probably have been better off by walking into the city centre.
Arriving in Chester city centre the first thing I saw was the open top bus tour. Chester’s is a little different. Whilst many other cities use old buses (i.e. things that were plying the streets as the number 36 about 25 years ago) Chester is possibly the only city that uses a vehicle that looks like something out of the 1920’s. The vehicle is actually a converted truck made to look like a 1920’s London omnibus. Therefore it’s not open top by conversion, but more from the original design!
The tour takes in much of the city centre, travelling up most of the roads in the centre of the city, in some cases more than once, before crossing the river Dee to the other side of the river through Chester suburbs before returning back over the Dee to the city centre. The tour guide gives a running commentary on many of the buildings and sites that the bus passes.
After taking the bus tour I walked down to the Cathedral and had a look around. After the Romans and then the Vikings, Chester became an almost exclusively monastic city, with seven monasteries in operation at one point. The Cathedral is the remnants of one of these monasteries. After having looked around the cathedral I walked through the grounds past the separate bell tower (built in the 1970’s to stop the bells from destroying the structure of the Cathedrals tower) onto the city walls.
These are one of the main features of Chester and form an almost complete circuit of the city. The line they follow is the same that the Romans laid out to protect their fortress, now nearly 2000 years later with a few minor changes, and several rebuilds they remain pretty much the same and allow stunning views over the city centre, at stages soaring above the main shopping streets and over the canals and railway tracks.
Walking around the walls takes some time, and by the time I got back to the area near the Cathedral it was already starting to get dark, and most things were closing, so I walked to the bus stop, realised I had missed the bus by 5 minutes and walked on to the railway station (for the record it did take longer than the wait for the bus on the way in, which sort of justified the laziness!)
Just over an hour later, I was walking back towards my hotel in Manchester and dinner.
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Part of the museum is based in the worlds first railway station, the original building of the Manchester to Liverpool railway, made famous by Stephenson’s Rocket, and fittingly there is an exhibit on this (in the Second Class booking hall!)
Across the road from the main part of the museum, but still part of it, is an exhibition on air and space with lots of models of planes (and some cars for no readily explained reason) and some background on space.
You could easily spend a couple of days looking around the site, longer still if you decided to read every caption and take in every talk that the museum puts on. After about four hours my legs and feet had decided they had enough, and with a short lunch inside me I headed back to the tram stop and the North Eastern part of the city.
On Exchange Square, once home of the Corn exchange, a large Ferris wheel has been erected, supposedly only temporarily, but as it’s been here before and the council got in very serious trouble with its citizens when they allowed it to go, it is likely that it might by staying. The wheel isn’t as large as the London eye, or as creaky as the Prata wheel in Vienna, but it does offer stunning (if slightly concerning when the wind gets up) views over the city centre and surrounding countryside.
Back down on solid ground I wandered around the corner to the Cathedral, a building that is quite lost amongst the high-rise shopping centres and office blocks of modern Manchester, but quite visible from the top of a big wheel that’s not so gently rocking in the wind.
After a quick look round the cathedral it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bags and head back out to the airport.
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At this time of year the whole of Cologne is covered in Christmas decorations and every few yards there appears to be another Christmas market. After spending quite some time wandering through the market stalls around the Cathedral, I took advantage of having an all zone ticket and got the tram out to Bonn to have a look at their Christmas markets.
After a couple of hours in Bonn I caught the tram back to Cologne and popped by the hotel to pick up some new batteries for the camera before heading back out to the Neumarkt, the largest of the Christmas Markets.
I spent quite a long time wandering through the Neumarkt, before catching the tram along one wore stop to the Heumarkt where there is another market, this one with more emphasis on the hot wine!
From the Heumarkt I wandered down to the Rhine and followed it along to the railway bridge walking past the Fishmarkt, At the Cathedral I climbed up from the river to bridge level, and then walked across the river next to the railway line and back to the hotel.
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The journey is quite slow as you have to change in Duisburg and wait nearly 30 minutes (made even longer when you find out that the train to Duisburg does stop at the Köln Messe/Deutz station that is 5 minutes walk from the hotel, and you need not have spent 45 minutes getting to the Hauptbahnhof because of engineering works on the tram lines!). The final part of the journey is on a little branch line out to Xanten which wanders its way through the German countryside, at times almost invisible through thick fog, but as the train came out of the only tunnel on the line, and the on board computerised announcements came out with 'Die nächste haltestelle ist Xanten, Das Zug endet dort.' the sky had cleared and there were large patches of blue.
According to the guidebooks, it is about a 10 to 15 minute walk from the station to the centre of town. As usual, this was wildly inaccurate, 5 minutes after leaving the station I was standing in the market square looking at the impressive cathedral church that dominates the town. Inside is no less impressive and you are given an insight into what all really old churches would look like if they never had reformations or threw stuff out, it's a hotchpotch of aisles, alters, alter screens and choirs, more soberingly, in the crypt is a small display to some of the residents of the area who met their deaths during the Nazi time in the concentration camps. The back of the Crypt wall has blocks with the names of some of the more infamous camps - Bergen Belsen, Dachau and Auschwitz - etched into them and then covered with barbed wire, it suddenly reminds you that it wasn't that long ago.
The modern town of Xanten is built on the edge of a much older settlement. Colonia Ulpia Traiana was built here in around 70AD and occupied for at least 200 years. Today only the foundations of a few of the buildings remain, and that would be all, if the site hadn't been 'Disnyfied'. Archaeologists have attempted reconstruction's of some of the buildings on their original foundations, based on findings elsewhere and an element of guess work.
The results are actually quite impressive with parts of the Roman wall, a villa, amphitheatre and temple all open for visitors to look around, and in most places you can still see the remains of the buildings, the temple, for example, is almost floating on modern building methods over the roman remains of it’s original foundations. The site is massive, and not all has survived, as the main road bypassing the town cuts a swathe through the middle of the site. On the opposite side of the road is probably the most impressive remains, mostly because they haven't rebuilt, instead they have encased it in a glass structure to preserve the remains of one of the largest bath houses ever discovered. You can walk around inside and get a feel for how the Romans relaxed.
After spending several hours wandering around Roman remains, and with a blister doing a good representation of the size of the Roman empire throbbing on my foot I hobbled back to the station and caught the train back to Duisburg, and then back to Cologne.
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The only thing vaguely like it in the world is the "Blue Wander" in Dresden, and that only climbs a hill, this runs for several kilometres, stopping at 19 stations and is an integral part of the Wuppertal transport system. Having been convinced by the write up in two of my three guidebooks I made the 45 minute trek from Cologne to Wuppertal. Yes, it's an impressive engineering feet, and it's impressive the way it swings out over the river (though it's not the raging torrent that the guidebooks make out, you could drown in it, but you would have to make a strong effort!), but is it worth the journey from Cologne, probably in itself not, so I went for a hunt to see if there was anything else interesting around the Central station, 45 minutes later I was on a train heading back to Cologne!
I explored some of Cologne's Roman past on my last visit, but I had managed to miss one of the most major Roman sites in the city. Located near the Rathaus are the remains of the Praetorium and a large section of Roman Canal. The Canal stretches for a good couple of hundred feet and is almost completely intact. The Praetorium itself is just parts of the foundations, but the museum explains some of the history of the area, and the function and structure of the building.
I had a wander through the streets of the old town for a while, taking in a couple more Christmas markets that I hadn’t realised existed, before heading back to the hotel to drop my bag off and then head out for dinner.
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After arriving at the main station I walked the 20 minutes or so, through the modern town to the centre of the old town, around the Munster (closed to prepare for Christmas), the museums (most closed for the winter period) to the Mosel river side (all boat tours shut for the season) and along to the point where the two rivers merge. Today it is called Deutsche Ecker, German corner, and resembles the bow of a ship riding out into the two rivers. An impressive statue on a plinth only topped for size by Leipzig, stares out over the join. The statues plinth can be climbed to the top for stunning views (not late November to early Feb!), or alternatively you can take a ferry across the Rhine (March - November only) to the base of the fortress (access only all buildings closed December and January) which can be reached either by a hefty walk up the steep slope or by cable car (summer months only).
As you may have guessed by now, I wasn't having much luck with things being open. After two hours of wandering around Koblenz all I had managed to do was to see some relatively impressive views and double the size of the blister on my foot. I walked back to the station to catch the train back to Cologne. However, instead of going back the way I came, straight up through Bonn, spending most of the time inland, I took the slower train back that starts by crossing the Rhine, just outside Koblenz, and then travelling up the Right hand bank where the train hugs the riverside most of the way back. With a light mist over the banks it was very beautiful, and more than made up for the lack of open attractions in Koblenz.
Cologne, like much of Germany appears to be in a constant state of rebuilding. When I visited in April 2004 the land on the opposite side of the river from the Cathedral was a building site, with not much to see. Today it houses the Cologne Triangle building, a 28 storey office block, with a viewing platform on the roof. With the mists having lifted enough to be actually able to see across from one bank of the Rhine to the other, I caught the lift up to the top to take in the the views. Even with the mist there are still stunning views over the city. The Cathedral is almost more impressive when seen on a level with the roof!
After spending quite some time at the top I caught the tram back to the hotel to drop some stuff off before heading back out shortly after it had got dark, the distinct advantage of the shortest day of the year, is that you don't have to wait that long for it to get dark! I wandered back to the tower and went back up to the roof to take some even more impressive views of Cologne at night, with the city centre lit up and the Cathedral standing proudly over all of it.
I walked over the Rhine by the railway bridge, and took in a couple more of the Christmas markets before stopping for a bite to eat, before heading back to the hotel to pack and sleep.
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This small town would probably never have been known to the outside world, were it not for the discovery in a small cave in the mid 19th century of remains. The looked strangely human, but different, more powerful with a strange ridge on the skull. Despite similar bones being discovered several years earlier in Gibraltar nobody had taken much notice up until then. With this discovery Human kind suddenly had an ancestor and Neanderthal suddenly became the most widely used German place name in the world.
Toady nobody knows where the cave was that the bones were found in. The whole Neander valley has been destroyed by mining, but a museum in the town has a wealth of information (in both German and English) on the finding of the bones; what they meant to the world at a time, just years after the publication of “On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection”, that was coming to terms with the idea that humans may not have been “placed here” but evolved from other creatures. There are displays on how Neanderthals may have lived, communicated and hunted.
After spending a very long time looking around the museum I walked back up to the station and caught the train back to Düsseldorf and then on by tram to the riverside TV tower.
The tower stands out on the Düsseldorf skyline, despite all the other tall buildings, and from the viewing platform at 175m the views are spectacular. The Rhine meandering its way north towards the sea and towards the south the spires of Cologne Cathedral just about visible (with a squint and a bit of imagination!) By the time I came back down from the tower there was no time left to look around the rest of Düsseldorf, it was time to head back to the airport and hope that I could get home.
The prognosis was not good. All the fog and mist in Germany had been mild to that in London. For three days thick freezing fog had all but closed Heathrow and London City airports with only limited numbers of flights landing. Shortly after arriving at Düsseldorf airport my worst fears were realised. Lufthansa had cancelled all flights back to London. I was sent round to the ticket desk where they transferred me onto a BA flight to Heathrow that should have left 25 minutes earlier, but was delayed for “some considerable time”.
I walked back over to the BA check-in desks and checked in for my flight and headed straight through security and to the gate. By the time I sat down it was 17:00, 40 minutes after the flight should have left and 30 minutes before my original flight should have gone. The purser from the flight appeared at a little before 17:30 and started making announcements about the flight. The earliest slot we could get would not be for another 2 hours.
So it was with a little surprise, after lots of frantic action and the cancellation of two further BA flights that were going to be accommodated on this flight, that at a little after 6pm an announcement came that they would shortly be commencing boarding of the flight as they had managed to get a take-off slot just before 7. It was an even bigger surprise when my boarding card was rejected when I went to board. Due to the number of passengers on the flight BA regrettably had to upgrade me to Business Class.
I may have arrived 90 minutes later than I should have done, into an airport some 20 miles west of my original destination, but I was a comfortable flight, I, unlike a lot of other people, had got home without too much incident, and in style! A very nice Christmas present from BA (not sure how Lufthansa will feel when they get the bill though!)
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After an uneventful journey, I arrived at Bristol Temple Meads Station. I have an issue with Bristol (partly connected to my issues with Bath) and it is that the signage is not great and they keep changing the layout of the roads. I had looked at a map and worked out that it was almost a straight line from the station to the hotel, and it should not have taken more than 10-15 minutes to get there.
45 minutes later, with sore feet and decidedly less than happy, I arrived at the hotel having walked round in about three different very big circles!
After having checked in, I walked out from the hotel round the corner to the new M&S to get some food for dinner, as I did not really want to see any more of Bristol that evening!
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The centre of Bristol is based around the old floating harbour and docks. With the increase in size of ships from the start of the 20th century the docks moved out along the Avon to where it meets the Severn, leaving the docks to decay, subsequently allowing the late 20th centuries favourite past time "Regeneration" to take place as they were (and still are being) transformed into a trendy arts, museum and living area. Part of the regeneration has seen the re-use of the canal for it's original purpose, as a means of transport. During rush hours in the winter and all day during the summer and at all weekends, ferries run up and back between the city centre and various other points, such as the train station.
I arrived at the jetty just minutes before a ferry heading west was due to depart and so I hopped on this and caught it the short distance down the river to the SS Great Britain.
Built as the first Iron Hulled ship by Brunel it changed the whole way ships were built. After more than 80 years of service the ship was finally sunk in a bay in the Falkland islands in 1937. Thankfully there were enough people who recognised the importance of the ship, and in 1970 it was successfully re-floated and sailed the 8,000 miles across the Atlantic to Bristol. At Avonmouth it was taken into a dry dock, patched up and taken off the pontoon it had sailed across the Atlantic on, and then was towed the last stretch up the Avon, underneath the Clifton Suspension Bridge (another of I.K. Brunel’s masterpieces) for the first time ever (the ship was launched before the bridge was built), and back to the dry dock it had been built in 127 years to the day it was launched, and then they started the restoration work.
It is still going on! The parts of the ship above the waterline have been restored to perfect condition, but below the waterline 127 years of salt water have seriously taken their tole, in places the iron has simply flaked away to nothingness. The ship is now sealed in its dry dock, a layer of glass seals the bottom of the boat from the elements and dry air is being pumped in to attempt to remove the salt content of the iron, it makes for a bizarre sight, as a thin layer of water is pumped over the glass the ship looks like it is still afloat. Underneath the glass you can walk around the base of the ship and read about the restoration work and see where the iron is rotting, a museum next to the ship tells its history from it's final momentous journey up the Avon in 1970 back to it's launch by Prince Albert, before being able to go onto the ship itself to look around.
After a couple of hours wandering around the Great Britain I caught the ferry across the river to the North bank and walked up the gardens on this side of the bank to Cabot tower. The tower sits on the top of a tall hill and from it’s viewing platform at the very top you can get stunning views of the city, the docks and the massive hail storm that was just approaching.
The descent took about 4 minutes as I was behind a child having serious issues with the descent, which was thankful, because by the time I got to the bottom the hail storm has stopped and it was clear and sunny again. I caught the ferry back cross the river to the SS Great Britain and picked up the ferry down to Temple Meads. From here I jumped on the bus and went out to Clifton to visit another of Mr Brunel’s constructions.
The Clifton Suspension Bridge is an amazing structure, soaring high above the Avon gorge. Next to the bridge is an observatory which, from the top floor, offers stunning views of the bridge and gorge, as well as a camera obscurer. In the basement of the building a passageway leads down to a cave in the side of the gorge that overlooks the bridge. On the opposite end of the bridge is the visitors centre, which explains a little about the history, construction and maintenance of the bridge, it's also a good place to wait out another heavy hail storm!
I walked back across the bridge to the bus stop and caught the bus back into to town, stopping off at the ruins of St Peters Church, destroyed during bombing raids in the second world war, to take a ride on the Bristol eye, a Ferris wheel that offers views over the city centre. By now it was getting late so I grabbed a bit to eat, before heading back to the hotel to get some sleep.
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Glastonbury is also famous for its Tor, a large hill over 150meters higher than the surrounding countryside, topped with the tower of a chapel. It had been my intention to climb this to take the views, however, the weather over the preceding few days had been les than impressive, and the ground was so muddy that I decided I probably didn't want to travel back home looking like I had actually been to Glastonbury!
The final thing that sealed my decision was the fact the bus was sitting at the bus stop as I left the abbey grounds, so I caught it back to Wells, where I had a look around the cathedral there before catching the bus onto Bath.
My reason for going to Bath was to try and put some of the daemons of my previous trip behind me. And it started well, walking up towards Poultney bridge there was a stunning Rainbow arching through the sunlight and clouds over the city centre. Unfortunately, the water it was reflecting was heading my direction in the form of large hail stones and so after 20 minutes of wandering round Bath I was soaking wet and freezing cold, much as I was when I had previously visited. Utterly disheartened, I trudged (and squelched) back to the bus station to catch the bus back into Bristol.
By the time I got back to Bristol and had a late lunch/early dinner, it was getting dark, and I had just under two hours until my train. As I had a day ticket for the bus I caught one back out to Clifton and took some photos of the bridge in the dark, where it is even more impressive lit up than it is during the day.
I walked back to the bus stop, caught the bus back into town, picked up my luggage from the Ibis and, being very lazy, and unwilling to get lost again, caught the bus back round to Temple Meads station.
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At 12:35, on time the doors were closed, the air bridge retracted and then the pilot let us know that we would be waiting for about another 90 minutes as the Air Traffic Controllers in Rome were on strike until 4pm, so we couldn't leave until we could be certain they would be back at work by the time we reached Italian airspace. After 20 minutes Heathrow decided that they needed the gate so we were sent off to the middle of the airfield and sat there for 40 minutes. Eventually we got the all clear, and for once made a very quick getaway from Heathrow. From the engines starting again, to us being in the air was less than 4 minutes, and we didn't stop at any point, just queue jumped everyone else and took off.
After an eventless flight we landed in Rome, where any annoyance at the delay was put in sharp focus by the fact that the previous BA flight (2 and a half hours before ours was supposed to depart) had only arrived minutes before ours. We may have had an hours delay, they had closer to four, and my bag appeared to come round before any of the earlier flights luggage!
I caught the "Leonardo Express" into the city centre and walked the short distance to the hotel, checked in and then went for a wander.
After 10 minutes random wandering I came across lots of ruins, turned a corner and was greeted by the site that pretty much defines Rome, the Colosseum. I spent quite some time taking photos of it from various locations and angles, before it suddenly dawned on me that it was almost 8:30 and all I had had to eat since breakfast were a couple of BA sandwiches and a chocolate bar, so I wandered off to find a restaurant, and then back to the hotel to sleep off what in the end was a big meal.
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All the guide books warn of the massive delays and long waits to get into the Colosseum, this however, does not apply if you have a RomaPass which allows you to bypass the whole queue and go straight in (and the speed the queue was moving at, it saved me over 40 minutes!) The Colosseum has, over the last two millennium, been used for its original purpose, and then from the middle ages onwards as a store and source of construction materials. It really is surprising, given that, how much of the structure still remains. You can climb (or like me be lasy and take the lift) up to one of the higher terraces to get a good view across the whole arena.
From the Colosseum I crossed the road and wandered into the back end of the remains of the Forum. The best preserved, and most interesting part, is spread over the Palatine hill and includes the remains of palaces built by Augustus as well as stunning views over the Forum and central Rome. I spent several hours wandering through the palatine, before realising that breakfast had really not been enough. So I found a small snack bar and had a pizza before wandering down the road to the Circus Maximus.
The circus was, in its day, the worlds largest sporting complex. It's here that Ben Hur style chariot races would take place, sadly, unlike the Colosseum, almost nothing of the Circus, other than the raised central section, the embankments that would have formed the base of the seating and a few stones are all that remain.
I caught the metro back from the Circus to Termini and caught one of the many open-top tours that go around Rome. This one (discounted with the RomaPass) starts at Termini before heading off past the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, the Vatican and many other of the major sights of the city.
I got off the bus a little before it got back to Termini and had a wander through some back streets to reach the Trevi Fountain, another of Rome's most famous landmarks. I would have thrown my coins in, but as the mass of people standing around, chucking coins and taking photos was four or five deep I decided not to try. Instead I wandered a little further on to the Pantheon, a spectacular, and massive, domed church in the middle of all the narrow small lanes. From the Pantheon I wandered on past the Area Sacra Argentina. These are the remains of several temples which are strictly off limits to humans, but have become home to many feral cats.
From Argentina I wandered on a little further until I found myself at the front of the Forum. I was going to do a bit more exploring, but it was just gone 5, and they were in the process of locking the area up for the night! Instead I wandered on along the road that runs past the Forum back to the Colosseum and had an earlish dinner in a little pizzeria opposite, watching the sun go down and the flood lights go up.
After a brief stop back at the hotel to drop stuff off, and to make a comfort stop, I headed back to Termini to catch the last sightseeing bus of the day. Rome by night is as impressive, as it is during the day and, despite the now heavy rain, the evening re-tour was worth it (I was sitting at the very front in one of the only two rows with a roof, I don't know if the passengers further back thought it was so worth it!) not only for all the sights at night, but also, as it was still the end of the rush hour, an excellent, but safe place, to watch the war that is Italian Driving taking place all around you!
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After about an hour the coach reaches the remains of one of the many aqueducts that watered Rome, still standing, at this part for over 1KM, after 2,000 years. The coach stopped here for about 10 minutes before heading back in towards Rome, following mostly the same route back as it did out. After a brief comfort break at Termini, I jumped on the next one back out to the Mausoleo di Ceclia Metella.
These are the impressive remains of a Mausoleum, which also house an exhibition on some of the artefacts found around the site, as well as an explanation about the geology of the area. The mausoleum sits on the top of a small hill, visible from quite a distance, as it rests on a bed of Volcanic rock, soft usually, but becoming very hard when it is exposed to air, hence why this part has not eroded, but much of the surrounding area has. It also helps explain why there are so many large Catacomb complex's around as they could be easily carved out, and would harden naturally when the air reached in.
From the Mausoleum, I had a wander along part of the Apennine way. Along the length there are ruins of tombs and monuments. In it's day this was "The" road that lead to Rome and all the most important people of the day wanted to be remembered after their passing, by the passers by!
After stopping for a quick lunch near the Mausoleum, I wandered back on myself to the the Catacombs of Saint Sebastian. These are the largest of the Catacombs built, with tunnels and passageways stretching some seven miles. A Basilica was built on top of the Catacombs at a later date. To go into the Catacombs you have to be accompanied by a tour guide, and the tours last about 25 minutes, ending inside the Basilica.
After finishing the tour I had enough time to grab a Panini from the stall opposite the Catacombs before the last bus of the day back to the Aqueduct and the city. Arriving back at Termini a little after 5:30. I dived down into the Metro and hopped along three stop to Spagna, and the Spanish Steps, another of Rome's "Must see" sights. By the time I climbed to the top (only afterwards did I find out that there was an escalator from within the metro station!) the sun was just setting behind the spires and towers of the city, with the dome of St Peters bathed in a beautiful Orange light. I walked a little further along the ridge, to the area just above the Piazza del Popolo, where there were even better views over the city.
After soaking in the atmosphere, and the last of the suns rays for the day, I walked down into the Piazza and sought out a restaurant for dinner. Sadly after having sat down I was told that they weren't serving dinner for another 60 minutes, so I decided to just have a coffee and a pastry to whet my appetite. I then caught the bus back towards the Colosseum to the group of restaurants near where I had eaten on Tuesday night. After a long, and very filling dinner, I staggered back to the bus stop at the Colosseum and caught the bus back to the hotel.
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I did manage to jump the queue a bit (i.e. from two and a half hour wait to 60 minute wait) by taking the generous offer of a guided tour of the museums and the chance to jump a significant distance up the queue, the tour costs €25, but the additional information, and the quick exit to the St Peter Basilica after the tour are worth it in themselves. (If you are thinking of taking a tour, try going to the very front of the queue and walking along it looking like a tourist, one of the touts is bound to spot you and invite you to join the queue much further up)
The tour lasts a little over 90 minutes, and by the end that's probably about the right length. The statistic quoted by the Vatican is, if you were to have each item in the collection on a conveyor belt, and stopped to look at each one for just 60 seconds, it would take 12 years to view everything (and that's without sleeping, eating etc.) How they then justify the massive entrance fee when most people who want to see the museum will come back on numerous occasions baffles me.
The tour ends in the Sistine chapel, home to possibly one of the most famous painting and decorating jobs in history. Michelangelo’s masterpiece is awe inspiring, and well worth the massive queues and long waits to see. After the tour, as I was in a group, we could exit into the main area of the Basilica, otherwise you go out by a different exit, back into Rome, have to walk back round to the basilica and queue up for the metal detectors all over again.
The basilica is the largest church in Catholicism, and is very impressive, though inside, because of the way it has been designed, you don't feel that it is that large. To get a true feel of the scale you can join another massive queue (I waited for a little over an hour) to go up to the top of the dome. You have the choice of a lift to about a third of the way up, or stairs the whole way. Part way up you come out onto a viewing platform inside the dome, looking down onto the church below, and it looks a very long way below from there. After another 300 or so steps you finally reach the viewing platform at the bottom of the lantern. The views over the Vatican, and Rome are stunning and worth the wait and the cost. On the way back down, you exit from the dome onto the roof of the Basilica where there is a Souvenir shop, post box and refreshment stop before you either take the lift or walk the last 200 steps to the bottom.
After climbing the dome I descended the short way into the crypt where the tombs of many of the former popes are. By far the busiest is, of course, that of Pope John Paul II.
By now I felt a little churched out (it was already gone three, and I had arrived at the back of the queue at a little after nine). So I walked back across the border, possibly one of the least well guarded but most baroque international borders in the world, into Rome and walked the short distance down to the riverside and the Castel St Angelo, and promptly back onto Vatican soil! The Castle was originally built by Hadrian (he of the small wall to stop the English entering Scotland, or something like that) as his mausoleum. Over the course of the next 1,500 years or so it became, amongst other things, a Prison, fortress and palace for the popes. Today it is open to the public to look around, and from the top offers stunning views of the one thing you can't get stunning views of from the top of the dome of St Peters, the dome of St Peters. Along it’s battlements there is also a quite nice bar where I stopped for a small cola and a chance to rest my, by now, seriously weary feet.
I finished looking around the castle and headed back along the riverside to Piazza Navona, which as close as Rome gets to a central point. I popped into a Café and brought an Ice-cream to eat whilst I had a wander around the square. It was very pleasant, with the sun setting and the last few rays of sun warming my face as I ambled slowly round a beautiful square in Rome, thinking that at that very moment my colleagues still had 30 minutes of work time left and it was cold and damp back in Britain, I don't know what the Italians call it, but the Germans call it Schadenfreude, and it was a very pleasant sensation.
After finishing my amble around the square I walked back to the bus stop and squeezed myself on a bus back to the hotel, where I took my boots off (and it were physically possible may have taken my feet off as well and put them in a bucket of water for a while) and had a short rest before heading back out for dinner.
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From the baths it's about a 1KM walk down part of the start of the Apennine way to one of the largest gates in the former city walls. The walls have surrounded Rome at this point since the time of the Republic, and the museum which is housed in the gatehouse tells the history of their construction, use and repair over the centuries. The walls were still acting as a line of defence for the city up into the nineteenth century, 2000 years after their original construction. There is also an opportunity to walk along a small section of the wall.
After leaving the wall I caught the bus back into town and over to the Castel St Angelo to go on a cruise down the Tiber, unfortunately, by the time I got there the morning sailing's had all finished, and the next sailing was not until 4, but I was told it would be leaving then and there was no need to book. Instead I wandered back up to the castle and had a bite to eat before catching the bus back to Plaza Venezia and visiting the Vittoriale.
The monument is one of the largest and most visible in Rome, rising to a level above many of the surrounding churches! Originally built to commemorate the unification of Italy in the nineteenth century it was not a particularly loved structure, considered to large and destroying the views. Today, within its walls, the remains of the Unknown soldier are buried and it acts as the countries national war memorial. You can climb the steps to the top to get stunning views over the city, just don't attempt to sit on the steps, I watched a couple being frog-marched off the monument by the guards, and signs all around in multiple languages remind people that it is a memorial.
From the back of the memorial you walk down some steps and arrive at the start of the Forum. With time to spare I had a wander through the parts I had not already visited earlier in the week, and then with the best part of an hour still to spare before the river cruise I wandered over to San Paolo where another of the major gates of the wall, a large white pyramid, and the station for trains to the coast. The latter being the main reason for visiting to check on the times of trains to Ostia for Sunday.
I caught the bus back to the Castel and wandered down to the mooring point 10 minutes before departure, only to see the boat leaving. On enquiring I was told that it was the only sailing of the afternoon, it was scheduled for 15:45, had to be booked in advance and was full by 3pm (given that I asked at a little before midday I was less than impressed.) I walked back up the steps and had a wander through to Piazza Navona to grab an ice cream as compensation before wandering back to the hotel to drop stuff off before heading back out for dinner.
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Ostia was once the main port of Rome, located at the mouth of the Tiber. However, over time the course of the Tiber has changed, and the river has silted up. Today, Ostia is two kilometres from the cost. You can visit the new Ostia, Lido di Ostia, but the descriptions of it make it sound like a massive beach that is home to “Rome by the sea” The original Ostia does, in large parts survive as one of the finest examples of Roman ruins anywhere in the world. And very few people seam to know about it. In Rome the queues for the seven ticket booths at the Colosseum stretch for over 40 minutes. At Ostia the queue for the single ticket booth was three people!
The area that the town occupied is massive. I had thought that in the four hours that I had to explore the site before I had to start making a move back to the airport would leave me time to spare, in the end I only saw a little over half the site.
Everywhere you look there are the remains of the town, from the necropolis at the entrance to the Forum, Theatre and Warehouses in the middle. It’s very easy to imagine what life might have been like in the town at its height.
In places there are large mosaics still intact after 2,000 years. Not just in the baths, but the mosaics that shop keepers had put down outside their premises to lure shoppers in. In the bakery you can still see the indentations made in the cobbles by the hooves of the donkeys as they turned the mill stones.
After looking round large parts of the site I looked at my watch to see what the time was, with an idea to go and grab some lunch. Instead I found that it was almost half one and I needed to be making a move back into the city to pick up my luggage, so I walked back to the main gate (a nearly 10 minute walk in itself) and back onto the station where I waited for the train back to the city centre.
Sadly, Italian railways proved themselves to be about as reliable as British ones by cancelling the train, so I had a fifteen minute wait before the next one, by the time it arrived I suddenly realised that I had been out in the Sun for the best part of half a day without any protection and had to face the real possibility of having managed to get sunburnt in February.
I picked up my luggage from the left luggage office, brought my ticket for the airport express and started the journey home.
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I had an event free journey down to the airport, through all the checks and eventually onto the plane, the only drama being that it left 20 minutes late because of a delay on its inward flight.
I arrived at Malta, at about the same time that the last bus was due to leave, so there was no real need to worry about the time, I was going to have to catch a cab anyway. It was thankful, as baggage took an age to come round. After an initial 15 minute wait the belt moved off, 20 or so bags came out, and then it stopped. A couple of minutes later it started up again, and repeated 20 bags, stop, wait 4 minutes go again. My bag finally came into view after 4 rounds of this fun game, but was on the other side of the conveyor, and I couldn't be bothered to walk through the scrum to get to it, knowing that if I did try, it would be at that point that the belt would start up again, this time going without a stop!
After having cleared customs I joined the back of the shortish queue for a taxi which rushed me (at at least twice the speed limit) to my hotel, where I checked in and went straight to bed.
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I reached the ferry terminal, purchased a 7 day bus pass, and promptly made no use of it as I boarded the ferry to cross the harbour over to Valletta.
From the quay side at Valletta I had a wander up through the capital, stopping to go into the spectacular St John's Co-Cathedral and museum, and the Knights Armouries, before continuing on down to the other side of the spit of land that Valletta is built on, walked along the coast a little and stopped at the Malta Experience.
This is a 45 minute audio-visual presentation which tells the history of Malta, from the Neolithic, to it's independence from Britain in the 1960's and it's declaration of itself as a republic in the 70's.
From there I walked back through the city centre to the bus station and caught one of the "Vintage" busses which run Malta's public transport network out to Buskett Gardens. These are the only woods on the islands, and house a large park area open all the time. Sadly my arrival coincided with a 45 minute heavy shower, which meant that the only parts of the gardens that I saw were from various shelters. The rain eventually stopped, but by then I decided to move on.
A little further up the road is Clapham Junction, it’s named due to the number of "cart tracks" (though there is no evidence that it was carts that made them) that have been cut into the soft limestone. From there I walked back towards Buskett and on to Dingli where I caught the bus back into Valletta, just missing the next heavy downpour. By the time I arrived in Valletta it was already getting dark, so I had a quick wander around the centre before grabbing some dinner in a restaurant by the Cathedral.
After a particularly large dinner, only because no-one bothered to mention the size of the starters!, I waddled back to the bus station and caught the bus back to the hotel.
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Partially sated I headed off down to the bus stop and into Valletta, where I changed busses and caught the bus out to the South coast.
As a land mass, Malta is not massively old, being formed when the African and European plates fused together, forcing parts of, what is now, the Mediterranean sea floor above the water line. In Human terms, though, Malta is ancient. Some of the temples even pre-date the busses! First stop of the morning were the temples of Hagar Qim and the temples of Mnajdra, both of which are within half a kilometre of each other. In both cases there are at least three separate temples that have been built over time. At Mnajdra almost on top of each other. The oldest temples date back to before 4000BC, putting them back beyond the Egyptians, and Stonehenge, battling for age with some of the sights in the Orkney and Shetland Islands. The temples are completely open to the elements (the fifth and most destructive element being tourists) and you wan wander around virtually the whole site. The only places they don't let you in are where scaffolding are holding bits up whilst they conserve them!
A kilometre or so back along the road from the temples, and the previous bus stop is a viewing platform where you can look down the cliff face and see the massive natural cave that has been carved out by the sea - the Blue Grotto. You can walk down the road that winds its way down to the small harbour side village of Wied iz-Zurrieq where boats regularly leave to take in the Grotto, and many of the other caves that the sea has formed in the cliffs. However, when the sea is smashing against the rocks as heavily as it was when I got down there, then the boats do not leave (not good for the tourism, regularly drowning visitors!). After having a quick look around the village I walked back up the road (and I do mean up!) to the bus stop and caught the bus back to the main town of Zurrieq. As the bus terminated there (no real reason, it should have carried on into Valletta) I decided to have a quick look around the town, which as it was 1pm on a Sunday was shut. I walked back to the bus stop and caught the next bus back into Valletta.
From Valletta I went back to Sliema, getting there just after 3, just in time to catch the last harbour cruise of the day. Several different companies offer cruises around the harbour, each taking exactly the same route and the same amount of time. The cruise sets off around the Marsamxett harbour that is formed by the land that Sliema and Valletta are on, before briefly entering the Mediterranean sea to move into the Grand harbour, formed by Valletta and the three cities of Senglea, Vittoriosa and Cospicua. Whilst the Marsamxett harbour is almost exclusively marinas and luxury yachts, the Grand harbour includes the main port of Malta, and the ship yards that provide a healthy proportion of Malta's income.
The tour lasted just under two hours, by which time I had realised that, yes it was sunny, yes it was warm, but yes it was still only March and the wind takes the edge of the temperatures. I popped back to the hotel to change out of shorts into trousers to prevent the early stages of hypothermia from setting in. I headed back out into Valletta and had a wander around the top end of the city, near the bus station, past the ruins of the Royal Opera House, destroyed by German bombing in 1942 and never rebuilt, and up to the Upper Barraca Gardens.
These are a pleasant set of gardens set high on the cliff face, the offer stunning views over the grand harbour and across to the three cities. After spending some time up here, I wandered back into the centre of Valletta and found a restaurant to eat in, before catching the bus back to Sliema and bed.
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Thankfully, apart from a few shops and the tourist information office, nobody else appeared to be paying much attention to the public holiday and virtually everything was open. First stop was the Great Siege of Malta exhibition. This is an exhibition where you walk through with a CD-Player strapped to your chest which should play the relevant soundtrack for each area, and set the lighting and videos going. On the whole it worked relatively well, but in a few rooms things either didn't start or went out of sync. The museum tells the history of the Knights of St John who, after being defeated in Jerusalem and evicted from their Island base in Rhodes eventually settled in Malta in the mid-16th Century. In 1565 the, then mighty, Turkish empire was getting a little bit annoyed by the knights continuing attacks on their fleet (the Turks did allow them to leave Rhodes without being killed, so you can sort of understand their annoyance). The Turks besieged Malta with the intention of wiping out the Knights. Over three months of fierce battles ensued, ending when a relief force from Sicily arrived, the Turks left, and from that point onwards their Empire started to disintegrate. The exhibition continues on with a brief explanation of the history of the Knights after the siege, a couple of hundred years of relative peace and prosperity followed by rapid collapse when most of their benefactors found themselves lying beneath the guillotine on the streets of France, 18 months of occupation by Napoleon's troops before Nelson came along to take the Islands for Britain until the mid 1960's when they gained independence. The only negative of the exhibition and, to some extent Malta as a whole, is the over simplification of late medieval history. the Knights are always portrayed as the Christian "good guys" against the "Evil" Muslim Turks.
From the exhibition it was a short walk to the State Apartments. The armoury that I had visited on Saturday is based in the old stables of the Apartments, but on Saturday they had been closed for a function. Today they were open, but in hindsight, it was probably a bad idea to visit. Whilst I did get to see most stuff I spent the entire time being engulfed in German and Japanese tourists, to the extent I was left wondering if there were any people left in Germany and Japan at the time!
Next stop from there was the old Knights hospital. Today it houses an exhibition on how the knights cared for the sick and injured, and the use of the hospital after the French take-over of the island. After looking around the hospital I stopped briefly for some lunch before heading back to the bus station and catching the bus out to one of the three cities that overlook Valletta on the other side of the harbour, Birgu (or as it has been known since the end of the siege Vittoriosa.) First stop here was the Inquisitor's Palace.
The palace houses a small exhibition on the role of the Inquisitor, thankfully (for the locals at least) the Inquisitor on Malta was a lot less "enthusiastic" than his Spanish counterpart, but had to be brought in after the knights started to become a little less religious than their leaders wanted. The museum is not massively interesting, but the building is worth looking around.
From there it was a short walk back to the main gate of Birgu and the Malta at War exhibition. The exhibition is based in the air raid shelters that were carved out of the rock during World War II to shelter the Maltese from the Italian and German air-raids. You start by watching a 20 minute film that was originally released in 1943, after the invasion of Sicily and the end of the attacks on Malta, as a propaganda tool to show the rest of the allies that the people of Malta had been through as bad, and worse then they were going through, but had made it through victorious (for the bravery of the people the entire nation was awarded the George Cross, the UK's highest civilian award for bravery, which still appears in the top left hand corner of the flag). After the film you are handed a hard hat and descend into the shelter. The complex is quite large, but it must still have been cramped when there were hundreds of people crowded into it.
By the time I emerged from the shelter it was gone three so I headed back to the bus stop and caught the bus back to Paola, mid way between Birgu and Valletta. Here, underneath the streets of this unassuming suburb, is what UNESCO classify as a "Unique site". The Hypogeum is an underground temple, carved out of the rock it resembles many of the temples on the surface, and yet was carved by hand from the rock. The Hypogeum has always been a popular attraction on Malta and consequently was slowly being destroyed by all the visitors and the Carbon Dioxide they were breathing out. Following massive conservation work the rock has been stabilised, but entrance is now restricted to just 80 people per day, tickets have to be booked in advance and when I arrived the had a sign up saying that it was fully booked for three weeks.
The tour starts with a small exhibition explaining about some of the findings in the excavations before moving into a small theatre to watch a short video about the site. From the point at which the video starts the entire tour is timed by a computer to ensure that damage from breath is minimised. As you are guided around the actual Hypogeum the lights come on and go off, to show where you should be. The structure itself is breath taking (excuse the pun) and amazing, given that it was done by hand and basic tools over 4000 years ago.
After the Hypogeum I walked the short distance to the neighbouring above ground temples at Tarxien. As it was gone five they had already closed, but you can still view part of them through the fence, and they do look impressive.
I caught the bus back into Valletta and visited the National Archaeology museum. The museum houses many of the artefacts that have been found in the temples across the island, Hagar Qim, Mnajdra, Tarxien and the Hypogeum amongst others. The museum also has temporary exhibitions and at the time I visited was very fortunate to see an exhibition on one of the other great Archaeological finds of the 20th Century, the Chinese Terracotta Soldiers. After looking around the exhibitions I caught the bus back from Valletta into Sliema and went for dinner.
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After catching the ferry and connecting bus I arrived in the main town on the island Rabat, or as it was renamed by the British, Victoria. The main focal point of the town is the Citadel which looms over the whole town, and holds many of its attractions, but the first stop was the cinema on the approach road to the Citadel and every half hour shows "Gozo 360°" an audio-video show similar to the Malta experience in Valletta. The show tells a bit about the history of the island, which appears to have been inhabited before the main island of Malta was.
After watching the show I wandered up the hill to the Citadel. The first thing that meets you as you walk through the main arch is the cathedral, and it was here I headed first. I'm glad I did as the entrance fee into the Cathedral and the associated museum also includes an audio guide which covers both the cathedral and museum and a summary on many of the other buildings as you walk around the Citadel complex. The Cathedral is quite impressive, but the attached museum is less interesting with little information on what the exhibits are.
I started to walk around the Citadel to take in the other sites. First stop, next to the court house, naturally, are the old prison cells. The cells still have the graffiti which was carved on the walls when prisoners were kept there, much of it dating back to the early days of the knights. From the Prison its a short walk to the Natural science museum which houses a small collection of items on the Geology, marine and bird life of the islands (all of it stuffed and mounted!)
Slightly further on you reach the back of the Citadel and are greeted with stunning views over the rest of the island. Walking back down a different lane is the museum of Folklore, which houses exhibits on the tools and implements that people used in their everyday life in the past. The museum is not particularly interesting, but the building it is housed in, three former houses knocked together, gives more of an insight into how people lived.
The final stop on the tour of the Citadel is the Archaeological museum. Here many of the finds that have been made on the island are on display, which is heartening that they haven't all been whipped off to the main museum in Valletta. After handing back in my audio guide I wandered back down to the bus station to catch the bus out to the main archaeological site on the island, the temples of Ggantija.
The temples claim to be the oldest free standing structures in the world. They are very impressive, with massive stones forming the walls. It's easy to see how in earlier times it was thought to be the homes of a race of giants. After having a quick wander around the town the temple is on the edge of, Xaghra, I walked back to the bus stop and caught the bus back into Rabat. I had a brief wander around the centre of Rabat, but by know the wind was starting to carry drops of water in it so I headed back to the bus station to catch the bus back to the ferry. I 'm quite glad I did, as from this point onwards the weather started to deteriorate quite dramatically.
On the way back to the ferry terminal there was a massive downpour which at times was running as a stream down the roads, I don't think the roads in Malta and Gozo are built for this kind of weather. We arrived at the ferry terminal just as the first wave of rain was stopping and just in time to board the ferry. I brought a cup of coffee and a chocolate bar and went to stand up on the deck as I assumed, rightly that it was going to be a little rough…
The ferry has to turn 90° before entering Cirkewwa harbour, and at this point I discovered that it was raining very heavily, with a lashing wind, which had been behind us all the way from Gozo, which was why I had stayed quite warm and dry. At this point it might be worth mentioning that I hadn't seen a weather forecast for a couple of days and was dressed only in a T-shirt and shorts!
I disembarked the ferry and made a very rapid dash for the cover of the bus back to Sliema. By the time it arrived back near the hotel the rain was down to a fine drizzle and the wind was calming down. I popped back to the hotel, changed into some warmer clothing, and headed back out to get some dinner.
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First stop was the Mdina experience, the same as the Malta experience and Gozo 360, it tells the (now quite familiar) history of the islands, with a focus on Mdina in particular. The ticket also included entry into two other attractions in the town, "Medieval Times" and "The Knights of Malta". Medieval times is a walk through tableaux of wax works depicting what life was like in the middle ages, with a small amount of explanatory text. The Knights of Malta is another walk through museum, but you have a multilingual commentary which you walk through with, similar to the great siege exhibition in Valletta.
After looking around the exhibitions I carried on having a wander around the town, before heading out of the gates into the suburb that built up around the fortified city, Rabat. Here is the Roman museum, it is built by, and over, the only remains of the Roman occupation of the island that have been found. The artefacts found on the site suggest that it may have been the residence of the Governor or a senior person due to the number of statues of the emperor and his family, but the museum signs admit that this is only conjecture.
From the roman museum it's a short walk to three further attractions, the grotto of St Paul, supposedly the cave that the saint had lived in for the three months he had stayed on Malta after being shipwrecked, the Catacombs of St Paul which are a large network of burial chambers carved out of the rock which you are guided around with an audio guide and the Catacombs of St Agatha, which have more decorations than the St Paul Catacombs, but no information.
I walked back to the bus station and realised I had enough time to get out to the temples at Tarxien before they closed, so I hopped onto a bus back to Valletta and another one back out the other side to Tarxien.
The temples here were discovered shortly after the nearby Hypogeum. It is a very large complex with several different temples, but very little information about what you are looking at.
After looking around the temples I headed back to Valletta to do some souvenir shopping before grabbing a bite to eat and heading back to the hotel to pack for the following morning.
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After an event free flight I landed at Schiphol airport, though the runway you land on from the UK could well be in Belgium given the amount of taxiing it takes to get to the terminal building, at points you felt the pilot was getting bored as he accelerated up the taxiways obviously giving thought to potential take off speeds. Nearly 10 minutes after landing we finally pulled up at a gate and actually managed to get into the terminal building.
Schiphol is one of the largest airports in the world, and as it only has one building it is consequently a very long walk from anywhere to anywhere else. It was a further 15 minutes (and a brief toilet stop) before reaching immigration and baggage reclaim, and our bags still hadn't come round by that time! After a short wait the bags came up and for once mine was in the first 20 or so off.
I walked through customs into the main arrivals hall and then walked another couple of hundred meters to the train station to catch the train into Amsterdam. 20 minutes later I found myself at Centraal station, and after getting a 96 hour transport pass and negotiating the chaos of the building works outside the station and the bank holiday timetable got on a tram to the hotel. The total distance from Schiphol airport to the hotel must be less than 10 miles, yet it took nearly two hours from the point at which we landed until I was actually in the hotel. At which point I discovered I had left my camera at home!
Feeling a little miffed, I caught the tram back into town, just as all the shops were closing. Thankfully I found a camera shop that fitted every single criteria that I had created for the perfect replacement camera shop. 1. They spoke English (admittedly a very selfish criteria when you are in another country, but this is the Netherlands and most do...), 2. They had a sale on, 3. Today was the last day of the sale, 4. They were still open, 5. They had some ex display cameras that they wanted to get shot of. 10 minutes late I left with a perfectly working, but slightly worn, ex-display Kodak camera reduced from €159 to €99 with a 1GB memory card thrown in for free!
Finally back on a sort of even keel I had a wander around the centre of Amsterdam for a couple of hours, learning how to use the camera (badly, sadly the downside was that all the original guides had gone and the only instructions left were in Italian, Spanish and Portuguese, so not even Dutch!), before finally stopping for dinner and then heading back to the hotel for an early night to catch up on some sleep.
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At the central station I boarded one of the many canal tours that run around the city. The museumboot has seven stops at many of the major sites in the city, taking a little over two hours to do a full circuit. It has the advantage over some of the other cruises in that you can hop-on and off as you wish. Despite this I still did a full tour, ending up back at the central station about two hours later. After a brief pause for a late lunch I caught the metro and tram out to the main museum area of the city.
The Rijksmuseum is Amsterdam's largest and most important museum, housing many of it's most famous art treasures. The building is massive and covers many floors. Sadly, it's also undergoing restoration and renovation that means nearly all of it is closed to the public until 2010 at the earliest. The small wing that is still open (and still charging a stonking €10 entry fee!) houses a collection of "the best", which is a fair comment with some of their most famous art works from the Dutch masters. Whilst there is no set route through the exhibition, the way it is laid out effectively forces you to follow a set route, which ends in a room with one single, large picture - Rembrandt’s "Night Watch" dominating.
From the Rijksmuseum it's a short walk further on to the most visited attraction in the Netherlands. The Van Gogh museum (for another €10, at least all of it is open!) houses many of the artists works, as well as sketches and has some background historical information on the artists, and his relationship with is brother Theo who kept much of the collection during Vincent's life (he only really gained any appreciation after his death). The museum also has a recently built annex which houses temporary exhibitions.
I was just in time to catch the last Museumboot of the day back to the central station, and thought it would be useful to catch it round to the Anne Frankhuis to go and visit, but before the boat even moored, it was obvious that the queue was still well over the hour, so instead I stayed on and went back to the central station. From there I took the tram out to Waterlooplein and had a wander around some of the canals, before reaching the most famous bridge in Amsterdam, the Skinny Bridge. From there I walked for a bit longer before heading back towards the centre and stopping for some dinner.
After dinner I quickly headed back to the hotel to drop my bag (and posters I had brought at the Rijksmuseum and had been carrying around for the previous 4 hours or so!) and quickly freshen up before heading back out again, this time for an evening canal cruise.
The cruise follows round a similar route to the museumboot (and many of the other boats), but shows a different side of the city with all the bridges lit up (and the red light district truly lit up in red!).
The cruise finished a little before midnight, and I managed to catch one of the last trams back to the hotel and bed.
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According to their brochure, they run two tours, a three-hour tour of the city and a six-hour tour that goes out into the countryside. I went to book for the following day and was asked if I wanted to go today instead as the group were just about to set off. So, slightly un-prepared (thankfully as the morning had been so warm I had left my jacket at home and was in lighter trousers than jeans) I joined a six hour cycling tour of the Holland countryside.
At this point it would be useful to distinguish between Holland and the Netherlands. The Netherlands is a country of 17 million odd people formed from 11 (12 since the reclamation of large amounts of land in the 20th century) provinces, of which North Holland and South Holland are just two. Amsterdam, being one of the most important cities on the planet in the 16th and 17th centuries because of the Dutch East Indies and West Indies companies, is situated in the province of North Holland, and consequently the name has rather stuck. It would be like referring to England as Middlesex, or Germany as Brandenburg.
The tour starts with a short cycle from the office to the back of the central station. I occasionally cycle to work in the Suburbs of London where Cycle lane is considered a rude word as it takes up valuable lording space for Chelsea tractors (SUV's), so the abundance of Cycle lanes, through some of the busiest parts of Amsterdam, is pleasant. However, for someone who has not cycled on the road before, it could be a little terror inducing, especially with the trams zipping past. Behind the station we boarded a ferry for the very short crossing to the North bank of the Ij and the northern suburbs of Amsterdam.
The first part of the trip is through the suburbs, but after a couple of minutes the city peters out and you are in the open countryside. After about 40 minutes cycling we came to a largish canal which we had to cross on a bizarre boat, the whole boat is a floating platform. The engine is attached to the land on the other side and it pulls the boat backwards and forwards across the canal using pulley ropes.
A little further on, we stopped in the town of Broek in Waterland, in the heart of the countryside for lunch, delicious Dutch pancakes, about the size of a pizza and with any possible combination of toppings on them. After a filling lunch we cycled on further until we reached the edge of the Ijmeer. Until the construction of Dykes the Ijmeer was the South Sea, connecting directly into the North Sea, and had been the origins of Amsterdam's wealth. With the creation of canals, and the need to protect the land from flooding a dyke was built which sealed the South Sea off, today the Ijmeer is rapidly becoming a freshwater lake, but still has the potential to destroy large swathes of Holland. In 1953, a storm surge came down the North sea. It left a trail of devastation and death in its wake, an inter island ferry sunk with massive loss of life in Scotland, large parts of the Netherlands inundated and thousands killed (this is the part that is remembered in the Dutch psyche) and Canvey island in Essex flooded and hundreds killed (the part that sticks in the English psyche). Today there are defences in place to protect against most eventualities, but with the houses still snuggling up to the edge of the dykes several meters below the water level of the lake and the sea, you can still se the potential for a major disaster. As part of their defences, for possibly the first time in their history, the Dutch are returning some of their reclaimed land to the sea to reduce the level overall. The Dutch, of anyone in Europe, have the most to fear from global warming and rising sea levels.
The tour winds its way back towards Amsterdam by riding along the top of one of the dykes for a couple of kilometres, back to the small town of Durgerdam where there was a brief refreshment stop, before the final 45 minutes or so of cycling back to the ferry and central Amsterdam.
By the time we got back to the Bike company it was gone five, and I had lost almost all feeling in by backside (and remembered why I had spent that bit of extra money on a better saddle for my bike!). In an attempt to get some feeling back I hobbled back to the hotel and had a refreshing shower. An hour later, and able to walk again, and in a new T-shirt not covered in a large percentage of dead Dutch bug life, I headed back into town for dinner.
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Keukenhof is the worlds largest flower gardens, and this being the Netherlands, their main flowers are Tulips, millions of them. The park attracts over 800,000 visitors a year, good for any attraction, spectacular when you realise that it is only open for the 8 weeks or so that the tulips are in bloom. Surrounding the park, and possibly more impressive than the formal planting inside the park, are the acre upon acre of bulb fields. Row upon row of brightly coloured tulips in strips.
After looking around the park I hired a bike from the rental stall in the car park and cycled round some of the fields, the smell is overwhelming and the colour fantastic (though I would suspect those with Hay Fever may disagree!)
By late afternoon I caught the bus back to Leiden and the train back to Amsterdam. As it was such a lovely day, I then caught another train out Zandvoort aan Zee, the nearest seaside town to Amsterdam. The long sandy beach stretches for miles in each direction, and the only thing that stopped me from paddling was the knowledge that this is the North Sea, which in April, even on the hottest day, would still be almost freezing.
Having had a wander along the beach for a while I headed back into Amsterdam for dinner and then back to the hotel to pack.
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Around the corner is the resistance museum. The museum tells the history of the Dutch resistance to the Nazi’s during WWII. From small starts the organisation grew to a massive scale, with many Dutch actively involved in undermining the German occupation.
I walked back from the museum towards the centre of Amsterdam, stopping at Waterlooplein to take in the flea market which is there each day. The main items for sale, which about a quarter of the stalls were selling, appeared to be bike locks, which goes some way to set in mind what the level of bike theft must be like in Amsterdam! I wandered through the market for a while before heading back over to the Dam and the Amsterdam historical museum.
The museum is housed in the former orphanage and tells the history of the city from it’s birth in the 13th century, through to the modern times in exhibits and models.
From the historical museum I caught the tram the short distance out to the Heineken brewery. The beer is no longer made on site, but the former brewery has been transformed into the “Heineken Experience”. The exhibition takes you through the general process of brewing, as well as looking at the history of the company and its advertising. Part of the tour includes three halves of Heineken to sample on your way round.
Slightly tipsily I headed back from the brewery to the Centraal station to pick up my bags and head back to the airport and the plane home.
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With it being the Friday afternoon of a long bank holiday weekend I was glad of two things. One that I had arrived early as it took nearly 40 minutes to clear security, they were being very quick but the sheer number of people (an alarming number in matching t-shirts all jetting off on Stag and Hen weekends) were taking time to clear.
The second thing I was glad of was having taken my bosses advice that the £17.00 for the business lounge was worth it. I'd booked it a couple of weeks in advance, and was not so certain that it was value for money, until I saw the departures lounge. It looked more like the concourse at Victoria station, when half the trains have been cancelled and the rest delayed. Chances of a seat were zero and the air conditioning was struggling to keep the space bearable. So with some glee I walked into the quiet environs of the business lounge, with its working air-con and ample seating (completely ignoring the free food and booze!)
The only down side to the business lounge is that it is that little bit further from the gates that the normal lounge, and when your gate is as far away as it is physically possible to get... (up until last summer the gate I left from was part of the satellite terminal, linked to the departures lounge by a monorail. However in Gatwick’s continued expansion the gap between the buildings has been filled in with walkways and offices, making it take almost twice as long to get to the gate as it was with the monorail, but that’s progress for you.
The flight was uneventful (ignoring the stag party who were generally doing what the stereotype of British Stag parties is!) and we landed in Vilnius 15 minutes early. Even with a relatively quick transit through the terminal, the time difference meant that it was gone 10 by the time I emerged into the arrivals lounge. I couldn't be bothered to try and find the bus stop so I got a taxi from the rank and promptly got ripped off. The guide book says that the fare into the centre of town should be Lt15 (2003 version), Lt18 (2004 version) or Lt20 (2006 version). I got charged Lt60 (not including the tip of Lt0 that I gave, the taxi driver appeared a little upset that I didn't want to tip him)
Having checked in to the hotel, I decided to take full advantage of the facilities and made a good 10 hours use of the bed!
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Having spent some time in the tower I walked back down the path to the cathedral square. This was part of the lower castle, and at present the Lithuanians are in the process of rebuilding the palace part of the castle (destroyed by the Russians in the 19th century) brick by brick. It's scheduled to be ready for Vilnius's turn as the European capital of culture in 2009 (as I was to experience for much of the rest of my stay, a lot of Vilnius is currently being repaired and renewed in advance of 2009, making it quite a bit of a building site at present.) I had a look around the impressive cathedral before having a walk up the main tourist street of the city Pilies gatve, stopping at the top, by the town hall, for an early lunch, before continuing having a wander around the Old town. After a while I found myself back by the Cathedral, so I wandered around the side to the museum of applied arts. The museum has a permanent collection of sacred art and artefacts, as well as having short term displays. One of their, not so short term, displays is the exhibition of the furniture and paintings that they have acquired to fit out the rebuilt palace when it reopens in 2009.
From the museum its a short but steep walk up to the hill opposite the castle and the site of the three crosses. This is supposedly the site where 14 monks were murdered by pagans, and has been an important site for the Lithuanians for a long time. In their usual friendly way, the soviets ripped down the crosses as they felt they would only stir up Lithuanian nationalism, and they didn't want that in the most westerly of the USSR's republics (as history would show it was Lithuania that effectively destroyed the USSR by being the first one to declare its independence in 1990). Today the twisted remains of the three crosses are still on display, but new ones have been built at the top of the hill. From here there are more stunning views over the city, and across to the upper castle.
Having walked back down the hill to the city centre, I wandered through some of the western side of the old town, taking in the spectacular St Anne's church, and then stopping at the bastion for a quick look around, and a pleasant relief from the scorching temperatures. It may have been 34 outside, in the passageway of the bastion it was about 16 and very pleasant for it!
From the bastion I followed the only remaining part of the old city wall, round to the only remaining gate, the Gate of Dawn. The gate has, above the road way, a small chapel, which is a site of pilgrimage.
With my feet aching I wandered back towards the town hall square and stopped for a late afternoon drink and snack. Refreshed, I walked the 25 minutes or so back to the hotel to drop stuff off, and change into less sweaty clothes, before heading back out again for dinner
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However, by the time I woke up again at a little after 8, the temperatures and humidity had started to rise again. By the time I stepped out of the hotel and 10 it was already baking. I walked in towards town, stopping off at a supermarket to purchase large quantities of bottled water (both the guide book and NHS had warned about the water in Vilnius.) First stop of the morning was the archaeological museum.
The museum traces the history of humankind in the area that currently forms Lithuania from the first traces about 11,000 years ago through until the end of the 14th century AD. After looking around the museum I walked next-door to the Lithuanian national museum. This picks up the story of the Lithuanian people from the 14th century through until the outbreak of war. A small exhibition also traces the history of Stalin’s deportations which took place in 1941 (until the Nazis invaded) and from 1944 (once the Red Army routed the Nazis).
From the national museum I walked up the main street to a government building. Today it houses a museum, in the past it was the headquarters of the KGB. In its basement are the cells where the KGB extracted their confessions and killed thousands of prisoners. The museum is spread over three floors. The entry floor and the second floor have exhibitions on the KGB, the Lithuanian partisan resistance, which was all but crushed by the KGB in 1953, and the methods the KGB used for keeping tabs on the population. The museum is very interesting, but the basement is probably not an ideal family day out. The cells form a bleak confirmation of the way the KGB treated their "prisoners". The two most distressing parts are the padded cell, where inmates were put to be beaten without others hearing, and the execution cell, where thousands of people were killed.
Emerging back into the daylight you are struck by the bottom rows of stones on the outside of the building. Carved into each one is a name and two dates, all of the second dates fall between 1947 and 1953, when the Stalinist purges were at their height. These are the names of just some of the people who only ever entered the building.
So far today I had experienced an almost continuous timeline from the first humankind in Lithuania through to the repression of the KGB. It was only right then to hop on a trolley bus to one of the most important sites in Lithuania. In the early hours of 13 January 1991 soviet troops rolled up at the TV tower in Vilnius. Earlier the previous year the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic had voted to split from the USSR and seek its independence. By January tensions were running high and on the 13th blood was shed. 12 Lithuanian's died defending the tower, independent Lithuanian TV carried on broadcasting until the soldiers physically forced them off air. On December 31st of that year the USSR ceased to exist, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia had gained their independence by the Autumn. Today the entrance to the TV tower is marked with wooded crosses in memory of those who fell in making the Baltic states free.
The tower itself has a viewing platform and revolving restaurant from which you can get stunning views over the city, and at the time I visited, the spectacular thunder storm that was raging around the tower. After having done a full rotation (about an hour) I descended and caught the trolley bus back to the hotel, arriving back just seconds before the even heavier and more spectacular thunder storm that then broke.
90 minutes late the storm was finally subsiding so I decided to take a chance and head out into town for dinner. On the way there were several more rumbles, and a few spots of rain, but these were the very last gasp and by the time I had settled down to eat (taking another big chance by sitting outside) the warm late evening sun was pushing away the remaining clouds.
After dinner I had a short wander through the town before heading back to the hotel.
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Today’s destination was Trakai, its about 25 KM south west of Vilnius, yet it takes the train almost 40 minutes to make the journey. From the station at Trakai it was a 5 minute walk to the bus station, another 10 minutes on to the tourist information office and a further 20 minutes on to the main attraction of the town the Island castle. The castle, as it's name implies, sits on an island in the largest of the three lakes that surround Trakai, and is reached by two bridges, one to a small intermediate island, and one onto the castle. The castle is very impressive, though there is not very much to see inside, and only a limited part open to the public. After having a look around I wandered back across the bridge to one of the café's on the town side of the lake to stop for a late lunch.
After lunch I had a wander through the town, being Monday the majority of the town was closed, but the remains of the other castle, the peninsular castle, are open to have a look around.
After looking around this castle I was pondering on what to do to fill the 90 minutes before the train, I had a quick look up and realised the most likely activity would be getting very wet as the clouds of today’s storm were forming. I walked back towards the bus station to see if there was a bus back to Vilnius, arriving at exactly the same time as the Vilnius bus pulled up. I paid my fare and boarded, the bus pulled out of the bus station and started on it's journey towards Vilnius.
At the first bus stop outside of town the driver pulled over and closed both of the roof lights that had been open. Less than 30 seconds later we were driving through another spectacular storm (thankfully the driver, deciding that on this occasion safety was more important than the timetable was, was taking it very slowly).
By the time we arrived back in Vilnius, an hour later, the storm had stopped and it was another beautifully clear afternoon! Having experienced the walk in the morning I caught the trolley bus back to the hotel, which itself took over 20 minutes.
I had a quick break to freshen up, before heading back into town for the evening.
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By 9 the storm clouds were disappearing behind the hills to the west of Vilnius, and light fluffy clouds, with the odd hint of blue were the order of the day. With a another large breakfast in me I headed to the bus stop and onwards to the station to head out to the temporary inter-war capital of Lithuania, Kaunas.
In the frantic horse trading the took place after the first world war Europe was carved up by the victors and their allies, in some cases settling old scores, and in other cases trying to re-invent empires. At it's height the Kingdom of Poland and Grand Dutch of Lithuania, was an important country, and Vilnius's population reflected that with the Poles in the majority. With that still the case in 1918 Vilnius and the surrounding area ceased to be part of a newly independent Lithuania, but instead became part of Poland. Without a capital it fell on Kaunas, the second city (and third largest in the Baltic’s) of Lithuania to take on the mantle of capital. And so it remained until the manoeuvrings of Molotov and Ribbentrop carved up Eastern Europe between the USSR and Germany. Lithuania got Vilnius back, but also got a detachment of Red Army troops that equalled and eventually heavily outnumbered the Lithuanian army.
I, just, caught the 10:30 express bus to Kaunas, which completed the 100Km journey in about 75 minutes (on roads where there were several long stretches of 40KMH restricted roadwork’s!) The bus was moving so fast that it managed to catch up with the mornings weather from Vilnius, on its way west, and by the time I got to the bus station in Kaunas I got to actually enjoy in person some of the weather I had listened to others enjoying. With my Karma score for the morning reset to zero I caught the trolley bus from the bus station to the centre of the old town. You can walk, but at nearly 3KM, most of it along shopping streets it doesn't make for a particularly thrilling walk. I got off the bus at the stop for the castle, and after initially walking the wrong way, found myself at the castle.
Kaunas, unlike the rest of continental Europe, is not closed on a Monday. It's closed on a Monday and a Tuesday, and in the case of the castle Wednesdays as well. After having a look around the outside, in the last of the drizzle, I had a wander through the park that the castle is located in. The park eventually tapers to an end where the rivers Nemunas and Neris (which also flows though Vilnius) merge. I walked back along the bank of the Nemunas and crossed over on a modern bridge, which had quite clearly replaced an earlier Soviet built one (it's a bit difficult to hide the stars, hammers and sickles when they are on the top of the support struts!). On the opposite bank is one of Kaunas's two funicular railways.
This one, called the Aleksoto Funicular and from the top viewing platform offers stunning views over the city. Having taken in the views and the first rays of sunshine of the afternoon, I wandered back through the old town, and into the new town, up the long and very boring shopping street, past several museums which were all closed, because it was Tuesday, with the exception of the zoo museum, but that was heaving with young children so I decided to avoid it. After 40 minutes walking I reached the city's other Funicualr, the Green Hill Funicular, which rises up the Green Hill (strangely!) From the top there is no view over the city, but you are in the shadow of the massive white church which has been built up here. It was once a Soviet radio factory, and before that a Nazi paper warehouse. Today, it is a church, which is also closed on a Tuesday!
I walked back down the hill, and having exhausted most of the attractions of Kaunas that are actually available on a Tuesday, caught the trolleybus back to the railway station, to see if there was a train anytime soon (there are only a handful a day, and this is Lithuania’s busiest railway line!) Amazingly enough, a train was due to leave within 10 minutes, so I purchased a ticket (a whole 4Lts - £0.90 cheaper than the bus!) and boarded for the slightly slower, but more scenic journey back to Vilnius.
By the time I arrived back in Vilnius, it was almost 5 and the humidity and heat had climb back to their levels of the previous days. I boarded and empty trolleybus back to the hotel, that by two stops on was absolutely heaving and not particularly pleasant. When I got back to the hotel I dashed straight into the shower to cool off a little, before changing into clean clothes and heading back out into town in search of dinner.
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I had a wander through the town and stopped at a few of the market stalls to have a look for souvenirs, and then stopped at a café for a mid-morning break. After the break I wandered down to the Vilnius picture gallery. It is part of the Lithuanian museum of art, and houses Lithuanian paintings from the 16th to the 20th century, and more importantly on a day like today, is beautifully cool inside.
After having had a look around I wandered down through the town to the district to Užupis. There is not much to see here, but the area has declared itself to be an independent state (though no one, not even the residents, take it too seriously). Having walked through an entire state in under 5 minutes, I wandered back into the old town and stopped for a late lunch, before having a wander down the main street and through the new town.
The main street through the new town, Gedimino prospektas, runs from the Cathedral to the river, stretching some 1.75KM. At the river end is the parliament building. A fine example of Soviet era architecture, and looking in some ways like a smaller version of the old East German parliament, this building has survived because it was here in 1990 that the declaration of reestablishment of independence was declared. It was effectively the final nail in the coffin of the USSR, though it would take over a year, and lead to the deaths of more than 20 Lithuanians, Lithuania became the first part of the USSR to stop being part of it. Today, a small reminder of, what must have been very frightening days, is left by the side of the parliament building. Some of the concrete and barbed-wire blocks and anti-tank devices deployed outside the building to keep the Soviet troops out, and the dream of independence alive. The majority of the blocks remained in place until 1993, when the final Soviet troops left Lithuanian soil. After the last troops left a few blocks were kept as a memorial to those who died.
I crossed over the river and wandered back along the bank towards the hotel. What I hadn't realised was just how much the river meanders through Vilnius, and it took the best part of an hour, in very little shade to walk back. By the time I got back to the hotel I was in serious need of the Ice cold shower that I dived into.
After refreshing up and getting rid of another particularly sweaty set of clothes (with the thought that I am not going to enjoy opening my luggage when I get back home!) I headed out into town for my final dinner in Lithuania.
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The tour takes you around the man parts of Vilnius, starting at the Cathedral, then driving round the city, stopping at several of the largest churches, including the spectacularly over the top St Peter and St Paul (one of the other tourists described it as looking like an over engineered wedding cake, and I could see her point.)
The tour returned to the Cathedral square and then we walked the short distance to the presidential palace (in the meantime the bus goes off to act as a shuttle service for people on the full day tour to Trakai.) By the time we reached the palace the lightning was streaking across the skies and the rain was starting to fall. We briefly sheltered under a couple of trees (possibly not the most sensible thing to do!) until the bus turned back up and we could sit inside it and get the full description. The tour then continued through the old town, up streets that were fast resembling major rivers there was that much water around.
We stopped briefly at the amber museum to have a look around, before continuing on to the churches of St Anne and St Benedict. A final drive through town took us to the gates of dawn and a short walk back to the tour companies offices.
The driver, very kindly, offered to drop me back off at the hotel. It may have stopped raining by then, but the rivers that were formally roads were still in full flood! Getting back to the hotel I picked up my luggage and caught a taxi back to the airport, in the process finding out that I hadn't been ripped off as much as I thought I had on the Friday night. 43Lt back to the airport, going a slightly longwinded way, but avoiding the city centre which was almost at a standstill.
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Of course the only down side to this is the lack of breakfast, or even hot leaf based beverage, which can only be partially covered by the plastic available once into the departures lounge at Gatwick (you can have plastic baguette, sit down plastic or McPlastic, it doesn't make much difference at 7am). Having covered at least the important task of the hot leaf based beverage and just minutes before the flight is due to be called there is the sound of a ringing bell, followed shortly after by the announcement 'The fire alarm has been activated in this area, evacuate immediately' repeat every 3 seconds. So the entire departures lounge evacuate, some people foolishly deciding to go back through security, I headed towards the gates. Once out of the departures lounge the announcement changed to say that the alarm had been activated in a different area and to stay where you were. A short way from the departures lounge and there was no alarm at all.
Unfortunately this did also mean, that with just 15 minutes before the flight was due to depart there were no announcements about flights, and no general screens showing departures, only those at each gate. As there was nothing else to do I wandered towards the old satellite terminal and checked there, no Hamburg flights displayed. I walked back and started down the long walk towards gate 27. Thankfully as I walked past gate 12 it had Hamburg up and a couple of bemused looking gate staff wondering where everyone was, only four other people had had the same idea as me. The emergency was declared clear at a little before 8, and a few minutes later there was a stampede of passengers running at the gate. With all the boarding cards checked the staff obviously decided to abandon the usual routine of inviting those with low number boarding cards to board first. Instead the man at the gate opened the doors and said "all for Hamburg..."
After an utterly uneventful flight and a slightly tedious journey into the city centre (there is no direct rail link to the airport, you have to catch a bus to the nearest station, about 10 minutes away) I checked into the hotel and hopped back onto the S-Bahn into the city centre. I got off at Landungsbrücken, from where regular open top tour busses run. I got on the first one and spent nearly 2 hours getting an introduction to the city (mostly in German!) Arriving back at Landungsbrücken I wandered over to the Elbetunnel, which runs under the river to the opposite bank. Unusually it has lifts at each end that lower and raise cars and bikes into the tunnels. I had a wander through the tunnel and took in the stunning views of the harbour side from the opposite side of the river, before wandering back through the tunnel and onto the town hall.
At the time of visiting the town hall square was being used to host a beach volleyball competition, so was very crowded, I had a wader around the surrounding area and down to the Alster lakes. I arrived just in time for a late afternoon boat cruise around the lakes (really its one lake, that's split by two road and a railway bridge.) The cruise was interesting, despite only understanding brief bits as it was all presented in German (despite the sign saying "Multi-Lingual tour"). When the tour was over I had a longer wander through the heart of the old town, but by now the weather was rapidly deteriorating, and the light fading (despite it only being a little after 6), so I found a restaurant for some dinner. By the time I finished dinner the weather had cleared so I had a longer wander around the old town at dusk before heading back to the hotel, just as the next downpour arrived.
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After taking in the views I descended back down to street level and wandered the short distance to the docks area. The warehouses and canals are still a hive of activity, even if the docks are no longer in use (a much larger container terminal is located a little further along the river Elbe). Today they are home to several museums, galleries and a few wholesalers (mostly of rugs!). One of the largest museums, and the cheapest (being free) is the Zollmuseum, the customs museum (as in drugs, smuggling and border control, not traditions!) The museum tells the history of the development of Customs in Germany from the Roman empire to the modern day. It also has some exhibits on Customs in the rest of the EU, and some of the ways people try to smuggle contraband into the country.
From the museum it was a short walk back through the docks to the "Hot Spice" museum. This tells some of the background to the spice trade, which Hamburg was an important part of. One of the main attractions is the sheer smell, lots of examples of spices are out for you to look at and sniff and the aroma is a little intoxicating. Just round the corner from the spice museum is "Miniatur Wunderland"
The Germans are the world leaders in model railways, and massive layouts are treated with great reverence (and as a way of making some people lots of money, at €10 for entry, and at least 200 people in whilst I was there its clear there is money in it). The museum has several large displays, the main one being a series of scenes in Hamburg. Every few minutes the lights dim and you can view it all as if it is night. It's quite interesting, but the sheer number of people makes it a little unpleasant, especially on a sticky day!
By the time I left Miniatur Wunderland it was already almost 4 so I stopped for a quick bite to eat, before walking around to the Rickmer Rickmers. This was originally built as a trading ship to the East Indies in the middle of the 19th Century. After many years of service it was seized during WWI by the British and then given, for a reason that I could find no explanation for, to Portugal as a training ship. It served this purpose until the middle of the century, when it was decommissioned and left to rot. The ship was saved and brought back to Hamburg, the city of it's birth, to be restored and opened to the public. You can look around parts of the ship to see what life was like, or stop for a bite to eat in the restaurant that occupies the first deck. Its also a convenient place to hide when the heavens decide to open. After looking around this ship I decided to have a look around the one almost next door.
The Cap San Diego is a typical freighter built in the early 1960's. According to the guide books it is very interesting to look around. Sadly, it was closed for an event when I got to it (they didn't bother mentioning this at the land end of the 400m bridge that links it to the harbour wall, only when you actually get onto the landing stage do you find that out!
There are several different companies which offer harbour and river tours, all sailing from the landing stages near the Cap San Diego, most cost €15 and are only in German. However, there is a cheaper way to see the harbour, and that's on board one of the regular ferry services that ply up and down the Elbe, run by HVV they are included in the public transport ticket in the same way as busses or metros, and the 62 runs every 15 minutes about half an hour down stream, turns round and comes back. It made for a very pleasant end to the afternoon.
I popped back to the hotel to drop stuff off and then headed back out for dinner. Afterwards I walked back via St Nicholas's church. In the summer, on Friday and Saturday nights, the tower is open until 10pm, so with dusk starting to fall, I ended the day as I had started it by taking some more photos from the top of the tower.
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Sylt in part of the North Friesland islands, a string of islands that lie in the North Sea off the coasts of Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. Sylt is the largest of the German ones and the most spectacular to get to. The only access onto the island is by a thin embankment, wide enough to take train tracks, but not much wider, which runs across from the mainland. It's a bizarre experience sitting on a train watching it shoot off the edge of the continent and across the water on this thin bank of land to Sylt.
Sylt, not only being the largest, is also the most northerly of the islands in Germany, and at it's northern most point Lise is officially the most northerly town in Germany (directly across the water you're actually opposite Denmark). From Westerland a regular, if expensive, bus network runs up and down the island, so I took the bus up to Lise. At the final bus stop is the harbour home to the most Northerly post office in Germany, the most northerly cash machine in Germany, the most Northerly etc, etc. As tacky sites it comes in a respectable third behind Lands End n Cornwall and the runaway winner, Santa land near Rovaniemi, Finland!
It might come higher, if it weren't for the beautiful setting, fine golden/white sand dunes and clear blue sea that are a short walk along the beach. I had a long walk along the lower dunes and beaches before catching the bus back into Westerland and then on to Hörnum at the southern tip of the island. Again this has beautiful sandy beaches, but a bigger and uglier port which spoil the view a bit.
By now it was half five and time to head back to Westerland and the train journey back to Hamburg. By the time I finally arrived back in Hamburg it was almost half nine. I had spent nearly seven hours on trains to spend four hours on Sylt, but the beauty of the island made it worth it. I managed to grab a late snack of a Bratwurst before heading across the platform to my hotel and packing!
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The flussfhart runs from the lake, through two locks to the old harbour and out onto the Elbe, along the way it takes in both the new harbour developments and the old harbour buildings. The tour was quite interesting, but as my German has become very rusty I understood less than a tenth of what was being said (two years ago I could probably have understood closer to a quarter, so the rust has set in on a pretty dodgy grasp of the language to begin with!)
After the tour I took the U-Bahn round to St Michaels church. It stands a little over 300m from St Nicholas's, but unlike the former was rebuilt after the war. Like St Nicholas's it also offers a lift to a viewing platform at the base of its spire, offering equally stunning views, especially of the blackened and charred spire of St Nicholas's. I walked back to the U-Bahn station and caught the train round one stop and another attempt to visit Cap San Diego. Thankfully, today it was open.
The ship is pretty impressive, especially when you get below decks and see the massive storage decks, and go deep down into the bowels of the ship to look around the engines, and mechanics of the ship. By the time I surfaced from the incredibly stuffy and hot innards of the ship, I was quite glad for the rain that had started, however it soon became clear that rather than a brief shower, this was only going to get heavier. I had left myself another 40 minutes of sightseeing before I had to leave to go to the airport, in the end I decided I would prefer 40 minutes extra sitting in the airport than 40 minutes getting soaked, so I headed back to Dammtor, picked up my luggage and made my way back to the airport.
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It’s mostly my own fault. I had been planning this trip for the best part of a year, booking the flights, hotels and majority of the transfers the previous September. In my mind, everything was going to go perfectly, there would be no issues, no problems and every leg would run smoothly and to order. Of course, a significant part of this all hinged on the British transport infrastructure, and the reliability of officially the worlds worst airline for loosing baggage in getting me to Scandinavia in the first place. The coffee was just the first reminder that there were darker forces at work than my meticulous planning (and let’s face it, there are no forces darker or more disturbing than British transport catering!)
Having made it, without further incident to Feltham and the bus to the airport, things were looking up, until, just before Hatton Cross tube station the bus stopped at the lights and then failed spectacularly to move again. After lots of engine revving, and air brake application and de-application, the driver accurately and concisely announced he had discovered the full technical reason for the problems. “The bus is knackered, everyone off, you’ll have to walk to Hatton Cross!” The walk itself is not particularly arduous, or long (less than 400m and on the flat) the issue lies in getting from where the bus was to the tube station, the other side of all six lanes of the A4, on it’s approach to the airport!
Having successfully negoatiated my way to Hatton Cross, avoiding being mown down by delayed motorists determined to catch their flight, I managed to pick up another bus through to Terminal 4, where I discovered the one thing the “fast bag drop” wasn’t was fast. 45 minutes later with the advertsing “When you arrive at the airport drop your bags at the fast bag drop and sail through to the departures lounge smoothly and effortlessly” ringing hollow in my mind I was standing at the back of the queue for security. Thankfully, for once, BAA had got enough staff on, so I was through security in a couple of minutes.
I got to the gate shortly before boarding was supposed to commence and waited, through the boarding time and up to the time when boarding was supposed to have closed. Finally, just 5 minutes before the flight was due to have departed, they announced that boarding could start, the usual scrum commenced, which I have never quite understood on a full frills airline, as everyone already has their seat. 15 minutes later we were all in, belted and ready to go. It’s at this point that they announce the flight crew (pilot and first officer) have been delayed on their inbound flight from Manchester, and that we will be delayed for another 30 minutes of so, until they arrive!
Eventually, once the crew had arrived we took off for an uneventful flight before landing in Oslo over 40 minutes late. I walked through the terminal to the baggage reclaim and awaited the arrival of my bag. 30 minutes later I was still awaiting the arrival of my bag and was starting to get concerned that BA had managed to loose it. Spending the next 12 days travelling around Scandinavia in the same clothes did not appeal, with the added disadvantage that as I wasn’t staying in one place more than a couple of days bags would never catch up with me. Thankfully, after another 10 minutes or so my bag finally appeared on the belt so I grabbed it and made my way to the train into town and onto the hotel.
After checking in and dumping my luggage I went out into the early evening sun of Oslo. I took the metro out to Frognerseteren up in the hills overlooking the city to take in the views of the Fjord in the summer sun. The last time I had been here it was the shortest day of the year, and there was very little light. Today, less than a month after the longest day, and with Oslo not really experiencing much in the way of night, the scene was more breathtaking.
I caught the train back down into town and spent a good two hours wandering around the city centre taking in the sights, before heading back to the hotel for some sleep, ready for the early start the following morning.
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I still managed to, just, make the connecting Flybussen into town and walked the short distance to the hotel and checked in. After dumping my luggage, and pulling a fleece out of my bags, as the temperature difference 400Km north of the Arctic circle to Oslo was noticeable, I went for a wander through the town, mostly in search of the Tourist information centre.
All my guidebooks listed the tourist information centre as being just opposite the cathedral, even the street signs pointed to that location, but all that was there was a convenience store and a restaurant. I spent 5 minutes walking up and down the streets nearby trying to see if the sign was pointing somewhere else, then giving up I thought I might be able to get some information at the bus station. When I got to the bus station I found they had handed half of their office space over to… the tourist information centre! I went in and picked up some leaflets on things to do, as well as booking to go on a bus and ferry tour of the fjords around Tromsø the following day.
After leaving the tourist centre I headed back towards the centre of town and caught the bus out, across the fjord to the mainland and on to the cablecar. The car runs to a station nearly at the top of the hill that overlooks the island that most of Tromsø is on. The views are breathtaking, not only of the city laid out beneath you, but the whole of the island, and a large vista across the fjord and the other small islands and mountains that surround Tromsø. I spent nearly three hours wandering along the ridge and pathways before the weather started closing in, so I headed back to the cable car station and descended back to the bus stop and then back on into town. By now it was gone 8pm so I decided to stop for some dinner.
After dinner I had a further wander around the city centre, before, at a little after 10:30 walking the 30 minutes or so, over the impressive bridge that links Tromsø to the mainland, past the stunning arctic cathedral and back to the cable car. I re-ascended back to the top and took in the marvel of the city, at 11:30 at night, bathed in the light of the midnight sun (albeit from behind a fairly thick cloud cover!).
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Tired from a day of walking I headed back to the hotel for some sleep, something that proved to be nearly impossible. The curtains in the hotel were not that thick, and trying to sleep in that much light was next to impossible, but just the sheer process of lying down for a couple of hours, even if I didn’t sleep got rid of the tiredness.
I got up at about 8, had a shower and wandered down for breakfast then headed out to take in some of Tromsø’s museums. The first stop was the Polarium, a museum to the arctic and how man has adapted (or not) to live in its inhospitable climate. After looking around the museum I wandered back across town to the Polar museum. This is a slightly different museum. In my mind I re-titled it “The Norwegian museum of why most of the rest of the world has an issue with us” dedicated as it was to seal and whale hunting, and justifications for this!
After stopping for a brief, very late lunch, I wandered over to the bus station in time to catch the 4pm bus. The local bus company in co-operation with the Hurtigrunten run a round trip which takes you out North-East from Tromsø across the mainland, crossing several Fjords on the way to the town of Skjervøy, just above the 70° North and then back on the Hrtigrunten to Tromsø, arriving back around midnight.
The first hour of the journey the bus ran along the coastline of the main land, parallel and then past the end of the island that Tromsø is on, before turning inland and heading across to a fjord at Svensby. Here the coach pulls onto a ferry and we all got off for the 25 minute crossing. Then it’s all back on the coach for the next leg of the journey through across to another ferry at Lyngseidet and a longer crossing of another fjord. Along the whole route the scenery is breathtaking and my camera should really have been white hot from use by the time the bus dived down into a tunnel, under another fjord, round a bit of an island, across a fjord on a narrow bridge and finaly around a hill and down into the port at Skjervøy, taking the crown as the most Northerly place I had ever been.
The bus pulled up right in front of the gangway onto the ship and we all marched up the ramp and onto the ferry, a couple of minutes late it slipped its morrings and started on it’s 4 ½ hour journey back south (the journey up had taken a little over 3 ½ hours). The ferry is the cheap way to cruise the fjords. Yes you can pay to go on an all inclusive cruise from it’s start in Bergen up to Hammerfest and Kirkeness on the border with Russia and back from around £1500, but you can also use it to go from port to port as a ferry service as a non-cabin passenger, and you still get all the glorious sights, but at a fraction of the cost.
I spent quite a bit of time out on the deck watching the fjords slip past, before realising that it was not that much above freezing, with a strong wind and it might be wise to move inside for a while before hypothermia set in! I went back out on the deck as the ship came around an island an into sight of Tromsø, although it was still a good 30 minutes before we finally moored up and disembarked, just a few moments before midnight.
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Several sleepless hours later I got up, had breakfast and headed out for another day in Tromsø. Sadly the weather was not playing according to the script. I had originally planned to book to go on one of the whale watching cruises that leave in the late afternoon, but the sea conditions were quite rough, and all the cruises had been cancelled. Instead I had a wander around some of Tromsø’s other museums. Stopping at the Art museum of Northern Norway, the Geological walk and Botanical gardens and the Tromsø museum before wandering back over to the Arctic Cathedral.
Here, unfortunately my sightseeing came unstuck, as it was closed for a wedding until late in the evening, so instead I headed back into town and had some dinner, before going back to the hotel to pack my stuff up ready for the following mornings journey to Finland.
Once again I tried to get some sleep, because by now I was starting to feel as though I was in some kind of drug induced state. I was totally conscious at the time of what I was doing, but appeared to have little, if any short term memory of what I had done a few hours later. The only way I can remember what I did visit is by looking at the entry receipts and guides to the various musumes and attractions I had visited.
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There is one bus a day that makes the 11 hour journey from Tromsø in Norway to Rovaniemi in Finland. It leaves at 7:30 and I had to make sure I was on it for the rest of my journey plans to still work. In the end I needen’t have worried. Whilst the bus may have been almost full 11hours later when it pulled into Rovaniemi, at 7:30 it set off from Tromsø with me and four other passengers. For the first two hours or so we ran through the Norwegian countryside, a fjord always visible on one side or another, in a light drizzle, stopping twice but on both occasions leaving with exactly the same passengers that we had started with in Tromsø.
The bus climbed into the mountains and came to where Norway, Sweden and Finland all meet. Despite the Norwegian/Finnish and the Norwegian/Swedish border being those between a non-EU and an EU member, there appeared to be nobody around, and no one in the customs office to stop us from smuggling all that really cheap Norwegian booze into Finland!
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After a 20 minute stop the coach continued on for about another hour before stopping again for a break, slowing down every now and then to avoid running over the reindeer that wander out into the road. The pattern continued until early afternoon and the final stop at Muonio. From there the coach ran direct for the last two hours to Rovaniemi, arriving about 20 minutes early. I took my bag out from the luggage hold and walked the short distance to the Sokos hotel and checked in.
After having a well needed comfort break (I hadn’t realised that the last two hours would have been non-stop, otherwise I might have had a better break at Muonio!) I wandered back out into the warm summer sun of Rovaniemi. After about an hours wandering I came back to the hotel to have dinner in the restaurant, before attempting to get some sleep.
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So I decided to use up my energy by hiring a bike and seeing the area around Rovaniemi by pedal power.
After hiring a bike from the next door arctic safaris I headed out along the banks of the river following it out of the centre of town, round the side of a big lake, and finally, back in towards town. I then decided it would be time for a challenge, time to be able to say something impressive, like “I’ve cycled all the way to the arctic circle and back”, I just wouldn’t quantify that the starting point was Rovaniemi, 8Km south, not London some 2,500Km South!
I have to admit that I did sort of fail in my attempt, the last 400m were up quite a steep hill so I gave up and pushed the bike up the hill for the last part! After locking up the bike I wandered into the world of tack that is Santa Land. If anything it was even more tacky that it had been last summer, except this time I wasn’t in full control of my mental state, so I let the tack get to me and went bad souvenir shopping. Most of my friends would end up having a highly touristy hat forced upon them!
Having purchased the whole of the EU silly hat mountain I had a bit of a further wander around the site, stopping for a very nice late lunch of a salmon steak cooked in a traditional Lappish fire pit. Then I saw a sign pointing across the road to a nature walk to “Santa’s forest” so I decided to have a look.
The walk is about 1.4KM to the forest, and then you have to walk the same route back. It goes through several different examples of Lappish habitat, including bog, marsh and dry pine forest. On starting the walk you do have to walk past a large sign warning that you are “Kulku Omalla Vastuulla – Walking at your own risk”. My slightly warped mind imagined Santa’s killer ninja reindeer lead by Rudolph the black belt reindeer, but that was probably just the lack of sleep.
The walk is quite interesting with signs every now and again telling you about the habitats and flora, the walk ends at the entrance to Santa’s forest, which appears to be a pine tree plantation, which was closed to all visitors! I walked back to Santa land, picked up the bike and cycled all the way back from the Arctic Circle… the 8Km to Rovaniemi, returned the bike and had a wander around the town centre for a while, before going over to Arcticum, the Rovaniemi museum of the Arctic. When I had been last year one of the main exhibition areas had been closed for the construction of a new permanent exhibition on the Arctic and the environment, and I was interested to see what this would be like, so I headed back.
The new exhibition is very good, and includes a Northern Lights show and information on how changes in weather patterns and the ice sheets are slowly destroying not just the habitats, but also the way of life of the indegiouns people of the arctic regions.
After looking round the museum I wandred back to the hotel, picked up my bag and walked down to the station to get the sleeper down to Helsinki. This was one of the parts of the trip that I had splashed out on. I could have travelled in a normal seat on the train all the way down to Helsinki, for about €75, but the thought of spending 11 hours staring out the window didn’t appeal so I decided to go for a sleeper. I could have saved some money here and gone for a shared cabin, but I have issues regarding sharing my sleeping space with strangers. I could have had a single cabin to myself in a standard sleeping car. Instead, though I decided to go for the premium package.
Finnish railways have recently introduced new double deck slepping cars. All the cabins on the top deck come with ensuite shower and toilet and a full size single bed. This compares favourably to my experience of British sleepers with their bed just wide enough to lie down on without hanging off the edge, one toilet between twelve and access to showers only at the London terminals! Unfortunatly, I discovered the hard way that if you really build something up in your mind, you are likely to be sorely disappointed. The bunk was very comfortable, the toilet and shower unit very ingeniously fitted into the cabin, it’s just a shame that someone forgot to fill the water tanks of the carriage up before it left Rovaniemi. The first time I flushed the loo, it came up with an out of service sign, no water came out when I tried to wash my hands. Speaking to the train manager confirmed that there was a.) no water in this carriage, b.) no space to be moved to another part of the train. So my journey was going to be much closer to that of a British sleeper after all…
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The town, is about 40Km along the coast from Helsinki and can be reached by regular busses, but its much more interesting to take the steam ship that sails once a day at 10 from the Fish market in Helsinki to the centre of Porvoo. The journey took about 3 ½ hours, wandering along the archipelago, with a short period where it has to run through open sea, which is probably best not experienced in the below deck (and at waterline) café.
I spent a while wandering around the centre of Porvoo taking in the sights and the wooden buildings that it is famous for, before heading to the bus station. Whilst the journey is interesting, it’s probably only worth doing in one direction at over three hours. The bus arrived back in Helsinki just over an hour after it left Porvoo.
After reclaiming my bags, buying train tickets to go out of town for the following day and checking into the hotel, I had a brief wander around the city centre, stopped for an early dinner and then went back to the hotel to try for a really early nights sleep.
At just after 9pm I closed the curtains and switched off the lights, to my delight I couldn’t see anything, no light, total darkness. I switched on the lights, got ready for bed slipped into the comfortable bed, switched off the lights and before I could even think about going to sle…
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I took the lift down to breakfast, for some reason that I could never get an answer to the hotel had decided not to have internal staircases between floors, except behind alarmed fire doors, so all guests had to use the lifts, even if it was to go the one floor down to breakfast! I discovered that whilst I knew the hotel was a large hotel, I hadn’t realised quite how large, how full, or that everyone would want breakfast at the same time! I managed to get a table, but more by having sharper elbows, better eyesight, and slightly less rickety hips and knees that the majority of my fellow guests.
After breakfast I headed out to the station to catch the train to Lappeeranta. The town is situated less that 25 miles from the border with Russia, and it’s quite bizarre to wander around a town where the road signs point to St Petersburg. I had a long wander around the centre of town and the harbourside area. Above the harbour is an old fortress which has been turned into a collection of museums and offices.
Walking up through the fortress and back down the other side on the far side of the harbour I came across the annual Lappeenranta sand sculpture display. There were about 5 big sculptures, and lots of small ones, mostly on a space theme (think Neil Armstrong next to ET, Darth Vader and the Martians from Mars Attacks!) I had a good look around before walking back to the station to catch the train back to Helsinki.
I stopped off for dinner in a very nice Greek restaurant that I had discovered two years previously, and then headed back out to the fish market and the boat out to the Suomenlinna sea fortress. I arrived at a little after 10pm, and the sun was just starting to head for the horizon. I walked across the islands to the far side of the fortress, looking out West over the Baltic towards Sweden, and watched the sunset into the sea. The sun setting is something that you take so much for granted living in London that unless the sun is particularly large, or the sky goes a particularly stunning colour you don’t give it a second thought. There was nothing stunning about the sunset at Suomenlinna, the cloud cover was quite heavy, there were no oranges or purples, just the light of the day disappearing, but it is one of the most impressive sun sets I think I have ever watched.
Feeling strangely elated, I walked back across the islands to the harbour and caught the boat back to Helsinki, arriving just after midnight, to discover that the last tram back to near the hotel had already left, so I walked back.
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I spending about a hour wandering around I caught the tram back into town and realised at that point that I had no idea how early I needed to check into the ferry, As I had my reservation with me I decided to catch the tram out to the ferry terminal to check. I arrived and walked up to one of the checkin desks to ask. The answer was that I could check in now if I wanted, as it would mean I wouldn’t have to queue up closer to boarding time at 3pm.
I handed over my reservation and there was some tapping of the keyboard, then there was some more tapping of the keyboard, some checking of the reservation, some more tapping of the keyboard, a quizzical look, more tapping. By now I was convinced that something had gone very wrong, had my booking been cancelled, had I needed to reconfirm, had I booked in the wrong direction… The lady then printed out a boarding pass and a programmed a room key then explained about the delay.
She hadn’t been able to find my booking in the seaside cabin section; I’d been upgraded from Seaside class (€225) through Silja class (€400) and Silja plus (€550) to Commodore class (€700). She didn’t explain why, and I wasn’t going to complain in case they decided to put me back down again. As I left the terminal to go back into town I had one of those moments, that if it had been a film the screen would have gone hazy and a flashback would have taken place. When I had been on the sleeper the train manager had explained that I was entitled to a full refund, but that it would take a couple of days to process, how long was I staying in Helsinki for. I’d said only until Thursday as I was getting the ferry over to Stockholm, and he responded that it wouldn’t be enough time so I would have to arrange for a refund when I got back to the UK. Had he told the train company, had they contacted the ferry company, it’s the only logical explanation I could give for the equivalent of being upgraded from cattle class to first class.
I walked back the short distance to the city centre, and did the one touristy thing that I hadn’t done the two previous times I had been to Helsinki. I caught the Pub Tram.
The Pub Tram runs in a roughly (very roughly, but the marketing men just managed to make it work) beer glass shaped route around the centre of Helsinki. There is a charge for boarding, but on board it’s decked out in art deco style, making you feel as though you might be in the set of a Agatha Christy novel, with the exception of the large plasma screen which carries a live feed of “TramCam” (as I titled it in my head) from the front of the tram. You glide around the streets of Helsinki, in a London bus red tram sipping from a pint of beer. There really is no other way to travel.
Having completed a full circuit of the route I disembarked and, slightly tipsily, walked back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and go out to the ferry. I arrived back at the ferry a few minutes before boarding started, still partly convinced that it was a hoax and that I would be downgraded, but I boarded the ship normally, found my cabin, popped the key card in the lock and the door opened, onto a large cabin, with a double bed, a lounge area with a large TV complete with video player and X-Box, a balcony with more chairs and sitting underneath the TV, a minibar stocked with a large bottle of Champaign and several other drinks. I wandered down to the information desk to enquire where I needed to leave my credit card details to use the minibar and was met with the response, “no need to sir, it’s all complementary”
I spent a good hour exploring the ship, as no passenger areas were off limit, the only areas that were restricted to certain passenger groups I had a key card that opened the door to. I wandered down to the sumptuous Commodore lounge and realised what this was going to be like. It was as though I had walked into the business lounge at an airport, except you had your own private bed chamber, and there would be none of that nasty boarding, seat belt, take off, landing nonsense, the lounge would float the whole way to Stockholm.
I popped back up to my cabin, popped open the champagne, and as I poured the first glass the ship slipped it’s moorings and sailed out into the Baltic. Having gone through the channels so many times in sightseeing boats, I hadn’t really appreciated how small the channels were, now I was on a ship that put some of the cruise ships to shame because of it’s size, I realised how small those channels were. A couple of minutes later we sailed past Suomenlinna, crowds standing on the edge to waive the ferries off as they depart, the same they do every evening, I waived back, raised my glass of Champaign and toasted Helsinki. Yes, this leg of the trip had started badly, but the end was making up for it.
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The ferry docked in Stockholm on time, but it was not a part of Stockholm that I recognised. I had assumed, wrongly, that as they Viking and Silja services leave from roughly the same area of Helsinki, they would arrive into the same parts of Stockholm, near the Katerina Hissen and the Central station. Sadly, for Silja, this is not the case, their ships dock at a mooring North East of the city centre, a 500m walk from the T-Bahn and then a three stop ride to the Central station, and the left luggage lockers that I would be making use of.
After dropping off my luggage I walked out the back of the station and down to the town hall, where I boarded one of the lake Mälaren steam ships to head up the lake to the royal palace at Drottningholm. This is where the Swedish royal family actually live on a day to day basis, but despite this, during the summer at least, parts of the palace and grounds are open to the public to look around. The steamer is the most pleasant way of reaching the palaces, taking a little under an hour to steam up the lake to the palace.
I had a long look around the Palace, as well as the grounds and the small Chinese Palace at the back of the grounds, before heading back into Stockholm, this time by way of bus and T-Bahn. I went back to the Central station, picked up my luggage and headed onto the hotel to check in. After doing all the necessary at the hotel I headed back out into town. I wandered up to the palace in the centre of town and to the Cathedral, which I had not visited on my original trip to Stockholm. The cathedral looks quite small from the outside, but inside is much bigger, though quite dark with little natural light getting in. I had a long look around the cathedral before heading round to the side of the castle, just in time to watch an impressive changing of the guard.
Impressive for two reasons, one the number of soldiers involved, and two the spectacular cloudburst that took place for almost exactly the same time as the guard change ceremony. I was already standing in a cloister type arcade, mostly to get a better view, but as the first soldiers moved out to the centre of the courtyard the skies opened. They persevered through their ceremony, which took nearly 10 minutes, as it neared its end the rain reached a crescendo and it looked as though most of the courtyard, and then by knock on effect, the arcade, would flood. Thankfully, as the last soldier retreated to the dry the rain stopped.
I wandered through the old town for some time, watching the rivers cascade down the streets, it had been a really impressive storm! After stopping for dinner in a small restaurant in Gamla Stan I headed back to the hotel to get an early night.
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But the area had been important for longer than the church. Next to where the Cathedral was (and now a small church is located) are 10 mounds, three of which, at least, contain the remains of Vikings, these are fine examples of mound burials which were carried out in the latter part of the first millennium. In the past you used to be able to clamber all over them, but damage, and a better understanding of their importance, had lead to the mounds being fenced off, but a museum tells the history of the excavations of the site and the founding of the area.
I spent quite a lot of time looking around the mounds and the museum, before catching the bus back into Uppsala, to look at the town that was built to replace the original settlement. Sadly, the Cathedral was being used for a wedding later in the afternoon so I only got to get a quick look inside, before having to leave, but along with the spire of the cathedral, there is one other structure which stands out on the skyline of the city, and that’s the castle.
Today the castle still houses the offices and residence of the regional governor, but also house a small art museum. To see the main parts of the castle you have to go on a guided tour which happen a couple of times a day, thankfully I was in time to make the English language tour, which turned out to be just me and the guide. She took me around the castle, telling it’s history and the important role it has played in the life of Sweden. The tour ends in the remains of a massive chapel, absolutely covered in carvings, sculptures and plaster work.
The castle has been remodelled and rebuilt on several occasions, with an entire chunk of it being dismantled and taken to Stockholm for the building of the palace there, only a small part of the original castle remains. This has been turned into a small museum, with waxwork tableaux’s telling about castle life.
After looking around the grounds of the castle and the botanical gardens it was time to head back to the station and get the train back into Stockholm, pausing briefly to look at the small collection of large rune stones which was dotted around the university grounds, by the cathedral. Once back in Stockholm I wandered down to the quays near the palace to book an evening boat tour. When I last visited I had done most of the tours, but they had all been during the day. I wanted to go on one that would allow me to be out on the lake as the sun set, and the 8:30 under the bridges tour fitted that bill. In the gap before the tour I stopped for a quick dinner, then headed back to quay.
The tour crosses from the Baltic in Lake Mälaren, travels around some of the islands and then back into the Baltic. It’s an interesting tour, made more interesting by being able to watch the sun sort of set over the lake (this being Scandinavia in the summer it was never going to get completely dark, but most of the way there).
The tour ended back at the palace and I caught the bus back to the hotel.
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I spent some considerable time exploring the castle, though if you are into Swedish painting you could take even longer as most rooms were covered in art work, from ancinet kings and queens up to the current royal family (and members of ABBA!)
I had a brief wander around the grounds before heading back to the station, though this time by the steam railway which runs from underneath the viaduct the Stockholm railway line runs over to the grounds of the castle. The trains rattle slowly down the 4Km between the two, but are a more interesting way of getting back.
By the time I arrived back in Stockholm there was less than an hour left before I had to catch the train out to the airport, so I wandered over to the city hall to climb to the top of the tower for a final view over Stockholm. Unfortunatly, since I last visited a new limit of 35 people at a time has been implemented on the tower so I joined tha back of what I thought was quite a short queue to climb the tower. 15 minutes later just three people had been alowed in and it looked as though I could be there for a very long time, so, reluctantly, I left the queue and wandered back to the station, picked up my luggage and headed for the airport.
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Eventually we arrived into Swansea 55 minutes late (and annoyingly 5 minutes before the entire journey would have been free!). I had looked at a map before I left of how to get to the hotel from the city centre, but I had forgotten how to get from the station down towards the seafront, and I couldn’t be bothered to go wandering, so I hopped into a cab out to the hotel. I’m glad I did, as the hotel proved to be slightly less the city centre hotel that was advertised on their website. It was a good mile from the city centre, along a road running next to the docks, that appears to be a mix at present of derelict docks buildings awaiting destruction, empty wasteland, and new gleaming office blocks being built.
After checking into the hotel and dropping my stuff off I headed back out and walked into town, taking nearly 30 minutes to reach the edge of the city centre, and then spent another 30 minutes wandering around the city centre. After a while it became pretty obvious that the centre of Swansea is an identikit town, you could be in any large town anywhere in the UK, the shops are all the same, the restaurants are all the same, and the large groups of people getting plastered on a Friday evening are the same.
My wanderings took me to the bus station in time to catch a bus out onto the Gower peninsular to Mumbles. The bus itself wandered around the back streets for quite a while and it was gone six by the time I arrived in the Mumbles.
I wandered along the sea front for about a mile and a half from Oystermouth square to Mumbles pier. I climbed up the cliff path and walked along a little further to bracelet bay. The whole way along you have the stunning views back across the broad sweep of Swansea bay.
After taking in the views I found a bus stop and caught the bus back into town and went to look for some dinner. Sadly, I had forgotten, in the peace and tranquillity of the Gower peninsular, that this was the first Friday of the month, and consequently there were a very large number of people who, at 8pm on the first Friday after payday were getting off their faces (thus proving that Binge drinking is a British problem and not a English problem!).
After walking past several queues for restaurants (and a similar number of revisited dinners that were decorating the pavement), I decided to cheat and go to where there would be nobody else dining, a small hotel a mile and a bit out of town!
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My first stop (which was at about a quarter past one!) was Weobley castle, high on an outcrop of land overlooking the north coast of the Gower. A lot of the outer shell of the castle remains, and from the higher points on it you get stunning views over the coast, looking along a broad sweeping bay.
One of the rooms of the main tower has been partly restored to act as an exhibition space to tell the history of castles on the Gower, including lots of information on Weobley and the other castle managed by Cadw (The Welsh Historic monuments service) at Oxwich, which made up for the fact that I would be unable to visit it because of the time it had taken to get to Weobley.
After looking around the castle I had a look at the timetable and found the bus back to connect with the bus back to Swansea wasn’t for another two hours, but a closer inspection of my guide book revealed that the bus had gone on a massive six mile loop around the countryside to get to the castle, so I was less than 2 miles from the hub of public transport in this area (i.e. one bus an hour!) at Llanrhidian Cross, so I walked up the road and sure enough 35 minutes later found myself at the bus stop at Llanrhidian in enough time to make the bus an hour earlier back to Swansea.
Instead of going the whole way back into the city centre, I got off at the hospital and changed onto the bus out to Oystermouth, the centre of Mumbles. I walked the short distance from the seafront up the hill to the castle.
Oystermouth castle is in a more ruinous state that Weobley, but you can still access the battlements, from where, if you peer through the fine mist of light rain that was falling, you get stunning views of the whole sweep of the Swansea bay, from the tweeness of Mumbles, through the city centre and onto the slightly less beautiful industrial and refinery works at Port Talbot.
I came down from the battlements at the same time as the custodian was ringing the bell to let people know they were about to be locked in, and walked back to the bus stop to catch the bus back into Swansea city centre and to dinner, pausing to stop off at the station to buy my ticket for my Sunday sightseeing trip.
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It’s, aptly, named the Heart of Wales line, and is described as one of the most scenic railway lines in Britain. It runs, roughly, in a diagonal line up from Llanelli, skirting along the edge of the Brecon beacons, before finally crossing the border into England and joining the Shrewsbury to Hereford line at Craven Arms, a place I had previously visited when I stayed in Worcester.
The line has twenty or so stations, though the vast majority are request stops only, and on a Sunday there are only two trains in each direction all day, the first leaving Swansea at 11am. Most of the passengers who boarded at Swansea with me were all doing the same thing – the “Heart of Wales Circular Day Ranger” a special ticket which lets you travel in a circle from any station on the line, back to it using the Heart of Wales line, as well as the main route from Shrewsbury to Swansea via Hereford, Newport and Cardiff.
The journey is very slow, taking over 4 hours to cover the 100 or so miles, but the scenery, for the most part is beautiful, running along the edge of the Brecons, the Black Mountains and crossing the Wye Valley and Offa’s Dyke before entering England via the rural backwaters of Shropshire at Knighton, a town which itself straddles the border. The train stops for about 30 minutes, in Llandrindod Wells for about 30 minutes, so that the trains can cross, most of the line is single track, and so that the crews can swap. The guard and driver come up from Swansea, and then go back, with the guard and driver who have come down from Shrewsbury taking the Northbound train back there. The 30 minutes is not enough time to see more than the station and stretch your legs, but the whole area has been “revictorianised” to make it look closer to what it did in 1900 rather than 2007.
By the time I got into Shrewsbury it was almost half three. There were two options for the return leg, either a train at 16:11 or one at 18:13. I decided, as I had 45 minutes to the earlier one, to have a quick wander, if I found stuff to do I would come back for the later train. Having left the station I walked up the hill towards the centre of town and came across the castle and regimental museum, which were just in the process of closing, as were most of the shops and none of the restaurants, with the exception of the McDonald’s, were open, so I took that as a good a sign as any that dinner would be in Swansea and I should catch the earlier train. Shrewsbury itself looked like a very interesting town, but probably a place that disserves a little more than a quick 45-minute, or two hour, wander.
I got back to the station to discover that the train had been delayed by about 10 minutes, so I got a sandwich and drink from the buffet and then waited. The train eventually pulled in 20 minutes late, and then proceeded to loose yet further time over its journey. By the time it pulled into Cardiff at 7pm it was 45 minutes late, so late in fact that they turned everyone off the train and made us all get in a much smaller train in front as the carriages were needed elsewhere! At least this train managed to claw back some of the lost time, and I arrived back into Swansea at a little before 8, stopped off for a quick bite to eat in the town centre, and then, feeling very lazy, caught a cab back to the hotel.
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Much of the site is in ruins today, but you can still get a good feel of the whole castle, and from the top of the still standing south tower you get views over the whole of the town, and much of the countryside beyond, empasising quite how important this site was to keep. Nothing moved around this area without the castle knowing.
After spending a considerable time exploring the castle I hopped on the next bus on to Carmarthen, to have a quick look around the remains of it’s castle, of which not so much is in existence. A large part of the medieval castle has been replaced at some point by the county offices, but one of the gate towers, part of the outer wall and a fragment of one of the towers is still standing, and once again offers commanding views over the surrounding countryside.
I walked around the town for a short while before heading to the train station. Whilst there are not very many trains to Kidwelly, there is at least one train an hour from Carmarthen, and at half the time it takes by bus, it made much more sense to go back to Swansea this way (added to that I only had two and a bit hours to get back to Swansea, get out the Ibis, pick up my bags and get back to the station!)
I arrived back in Swansea and walked back to the hotel, through the modern SA1 development, this is the regeneration of the docks in the city centre and is doing to Swansea’s Docklands what they have done to London’s and Cardiff’s. I picked up my bags and walked to the bus stop to catch the bus back into town and then on up to the station, arriving with about 30 minutes to spare before my train, or as it turned out 10 minutes to spare before the delayed train from an hour before. I’m not quite sure what had caused the delay on the earlier train, but mine pulled out of Swansea on the dot of 5:30.
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30 minutes later and with my bags dropped off at the (for once correctly titled) fast bag drop, I was at the back of what appeared to be one of the longest queues for security that I had ever seen, thankfully as I joined the queue they opened another two desks, so I shot right to the front of the queue, giving me enough time to actually have some breakfast before the flight.
Which was good, as the flight was 30 minutes late leaving Gatwick because of Fog in Zurich, and the service that followed was well below BA's usual quite low standards! Breakfast on the plane was a bacon roll that if you stretched your imagination could be described as palatable. This was made all the worse by being in the back row, opposite the toilet, which had a door that flew open on take off to release waft after waft of loo cleaner/disinfectant smells. To make things worse members of the Cabin crew kept going past it ignoring it (apart from occasionally spraying a bit of air freshener around). By the time I landed I was starting to feel quite unwell. Thankfully, within a couple of minutes of leaving the plane I felt much better again.
A relatively smooth journey through the airport was only held up by having my bag searched by customs. The man seamed quite downhearted that he only found clothes and a couple of guide books, on the down side, by the time I got to the station I had missed the train to Bern and had to wait another half an hour.
With the ruthless efficiency with which the Swiss railways are known the train left Zurich airport on time, quickly reversed into Zurich main station and then headed out fast to Bern, arriving a little over 60 minutes later. I walked the short distance to the hotel, checked in, dumped my bags, and headed back out to explore the city.
My first stop of the afternoon was to be Gurten, one of the main hills that overlook the city. The instructions for getting there are relatively simple, catch the number nine tram from the station to the Gurtenbahn stop and then catch the Gurtenbahn Funicular up to the top of the hill. Unfortunately, Bern is in the process of building a brand new tram and bus station in front of the railway station, and since the beginning of August, until the end of the year, they had severed the tramlines across the city. The trams were still running, it's just it took nearly 20 minutes to find where they were running from. Once I found the tram, and broke a note into enough small change to be able to buy a day ticket, it was a very simple journey.
From the top of the Gurten the views are spectacular, looking over the city and to the mountains beyond. To give nature a little helping hand a tower has been erected at the highest point which takes you an extra 60m or so up, clear of the tops of the trees and able to see even more of the city. After taking in the views I had a bit of a wander around the parkland at the top of the hill, and stopped for a very late lunch in the self-service restaurant by the Gurtenbahn station. After finishing lunch, having a bit more of a wander I caught the Funicular back down to the bottom of the hill, and the tram back into town.
I had a long wander through the town, taking in the bulk of the area that lies in the curve of the river. From the main station the river loops around the edge of the city for about a mile, and it was a very pleasant walk to meander along the top of the hills overlooking the river. At one point the river surges through a small set of rapids and a short waterfall, adding in the high up bridges crossing it at this point it makes for a dramatic site.
My wanderings ended me up in the Rosegarten, above the city on the opposite side of the river, again the views from here are spectacular, more so perhaps than from the Gurten, if only for being much closer in to the city centre, and able to watch the river in full roar. By the time I left the Rosegarten it was gone 7, so I wandered back to the hotel to drop my bag off and have a bite to eat, before heading back out again.
I headed back out shortly before 8:30 and made my way back towards the Gurtenbahn, arriving back at the top of Gurten just as the sun finished setting behind the city. I spent about 30 minutes wandering around the park taking some more photos of Bern at night before heading back down into town and back to the hotel for, what I hoped would be a decent nights sleep, ready for an early start the following morning.
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Whilst they may not be the very highest of the mountains in Switzerland the Eiger (3970m), Mönch (4099m) and Jungfrau (4158m), translate as the Ogre, Monk and Virgin) are some of the most spectacular. And getting to within admirable distance of the summit of the Jungfrau is surprisingly easy. At 3454m above sea level Jungfraujoch holds the record as Europe’s highest railway station, getting there requires several changes of train and a near 10Km ride through the heart of the Eiger.
Consequently I was up early, and out to the station whilst the rush hour was still on to catch the 9:09 train to Interlaken. I got off at Interlaken, but sadly my jacket didn’t. By the time I remembered that I had put it in the overhead rack I was already half an hour from Interlaken. The trains from Interlaken take one of two routes up to Kleine Scheidegg, where the final train to Junfraujoch leaves from, and return tickets allow you the choice to go up one way and come back down the other. I decided to go up the clockwise way and caught the train up for leg two of the journey to Grindelwald. Here you change trains again to go on up to Kleine Scheidegg, but I decided to have a quick detour hear and take the cable car up to First.
The Firstbahn station is about a 10 minute walk from the main railway station, but mostly on the flat, on the way I passed a number of shops, including one selling jackets. I popped in and £40 lighter left with a new jacket (Whilst it may have been 28C in Bern, by the time I got to Jungfraujoch I would be lucky if it was much above freezing). I boarded my gondola and took off from the base station, through two intermediate stops at Bort and Schreckfeld and arrived at First about 30 minutes later. The views from here over the valley, and across to the imposing high peaks are simply breathtaking. I spent about 25 minutes wandering around the top station before catching the cable car back down to Bort station, here I alighted to make a more unusual descent back down to Grindelwald.
From Bort it is possible to hire a scooter, which you return at the Firstbahn station in Grindelwald, they lend you a helmet as well and point you in the direction of the 4.5Km track down the side of the mountain. How long you takes depends on gravity and how much pressure you apply to the breaks! You get a completely different view of the mountains from ground level, rather than up in the cable car, and you pass through a number of small farmsteads and the outlying suburbs of Grindelwald. The only down side is that the last kilometre or so is on a normal road and a little disconcerting as the scooters do wobble a bit.
Having returned my scooter to the station (where it is loaded onto a maintenance car and set back up to Bort in batches) I walked back to the main station and picked up the train to Kleine Scheidegg, which climbs spectacularly through the foothills and lower parts of the mountains before it reaches the slight plateau the Kleine Scheidegg is on. Here I changed trains again onto the Junfraubahn for the final leg up to Jungfraujoch. The train to Jungfraujoch starts by climbing further up the side of the mountains, until it reaches what can only be described as the rock line, the point at which all grass and scrub appears to stop abruptly. It then dives into a nearly 10Km tunnel that climbs the final 1200m to Jungraujoch, stopping twice on route, partly to let trains coming down pass, and also so you can take in the views, at each stop, despite still being in the rock, passageways have been cut that blast out the side of the mountain, windows have then been installed so that you can remain safe and (relatively) warm, but still enjoy the views.
The first thing you notice on arriving at Jungfraujoch is that the Oxygen is most defiantly thinner, the closest I can describe it to was a combination of slight travel sickness, combined with the light headedness you get after blowing up balloons, alternatively it’s a lot like the way you feel after not sleeping for several days without actually seeing any nights! Consequently, I felt fine, but several other people were staggering around the place as though drunk, and at least one poor kid was being quite ill in the sinks in the toilets.
As with any “furthest…” “highest…” “longest…” attraction it has the customary souvenir shop (the tag line for the whole operation is “Top of Europe”, I somehow feel that the Norwegians may have a better claim to this but…) and “the highest post office in Europe”. It also has a number of attractions, several of these, thankfully, being the view over the surrounding mountains and glaciers. As I exited the station complex onto the side of the mountain and a glacier I was suddenly very glad for the jacket. Whilst it wasn’t freezing (the digital signs were merrily proclaiming it was +8C) the wind was enough to make it feel cold. You can walk along the glacier on a specially secured path to a restaurant and hotel about 40 minutes away, but as I was only wearing trainers and jeans, I didn’t really think I was prepared enough. You can also go skiing, but as I have never skied before in my life, I felt 11,000 feet up on a glacier was probably not a good place to learn. One thing I did decide to have a go on was the aerial slide.
You strap yourself into a harness, scramble, slither and slide your way up a bit more of the mountain (not easy when the snow is at least a couple of foot deep, and you don’t have that much oxygen to play with), have the other end of the harness attached to a steel wire, and then become a human cable car. The ride is a combination of exhilarating and petrifying. The thing they don’t tell you is the breaking system. It’s you, or more importantly you backside, and a mound of soft snow that you plough through (remember at this point that I am wearing jeans!) After dusting myself down I damply, walked back to the start point to hand the harness in. Thankfully, the conditions on the top of a glacier are perfect for fixing issues like this. Whilst it may only be 8C with several foot of snow, the effect of all the sunlight bouncing off the snow and surrounding mountains, as well as it directly being on my back, meant that by the time I had walked the 200m or so my jeans were almost, but not completely dry.
I had a further wander around the site, taking in more of the views and stopping for a very late bite to eat, before catching the last train of the day down to Kleine Scheidegg and from here continuing on my clockwise journey by taking the train back down the mountain to Lauterbrunnen and from here the penultimate train back to Interlaken. This being Switzerland everything connected, so 10 minutes after arriving back in Interlaken the train to Bern pulled out. Even so the entire round trip to Interlaken to Jungfraujoch to Interlaken, without the diversion to First, or even getting out of the train at Jungfraujoch takes nearly five hours, and by the time the train finally pulled into Bern at half nine, I was ready for bed, and I think my body was considering strike action.
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After a leisurely breakfast, and an even more leisurely flip through the guidebooks I headed out to the station and for the second time out to Interlaken. However, on arrival this time instead of heading into the hills, I carried on, along the lakeside on the floor of the valley to Meiringen. The name of the town is not particularly famous to most people, though its nearby major attraction is world famous, if only for a fictitious event, for it is from the mighty Reichenbach falls, that topple to the valley floor just south of the town centre, that Sherlock Holms and his archenemy Dr Moriarty fell to their deaths. The fact that it is a work of fiction, and no such event actually took place in real life hasn’t stopped this small town cashing in.
I was originally going to head straight for the falls, and then come back into town, but my curiosity was tweaked by the Aarschlucht or Aare Gorge. I caught the small local train down to the end of the line at Interkirchen and on the way it passes the edge of the Aarschlucht. The river has gouged a deep, but narrow gorge through the rock creating an incredible natural sight. The train then dives into a tunnel that runs through one of the sides of the gorge, with a station almost at the end of the tunnel, access is through a door in the side of the cliff! I kept on the train for the final couple kilometre in Interkirchen and then started to walk back along the length of the route towards Meiringen.
There are four ways of passing from Interkirchen to Meiringen. One is to follow the road, up and over the top of the hills, one is to take the train back, the third (and not recommended) is to jump in the river and let it take you back (though this will almost certainly be fatal). The fourth, and most interesting way is to take the boardwalk that has been fastened to, and in places tunnelled through, the side of the gorge. The walk takes about 25 minutes, but the views as the gorge gradually narrows to not more than a meter of so wide are spectacular, and the sound of the water forcing its way through deafening.
From the end of the Aarschlucht it’s just over a kilometre to the base station of the Reichenbachfall Bahn. This Funicular takes about 5 minutes to climb to its top station, still a good hundred or so meters below the top of the falls, but by one of the higher pools that the upper part of the waterfall pours into. A further 25 minutes hike uphill and you reach the top of the falls, from where there are stunning views out over the countryside, you can see the valley that Meiringen lies in quite clearly laid out before you.
I descended (it’s only 15 minutes on the way down) back to the funicular station and caught that back down to Meiringen, and zipped across town in the hope of getting to the cable car in time to get up to the Alpen tower before the clouds completely covered the view, sadly, the clouds weren’t going to be the problem. It was already 4pm, and the last assent to the tower with return had already left (and I didn’t want the 3 hour hike back down to the station) so instead I headed back to the railway station to take the train back a couple of stops to Brienz to pick up the rack railway there to ascend up the 2350m to Rothorn. Once again I was beaten by the clock, arriving 5 minutes after the last round trip departure had left (and no option here for going up and walking back down!) Defeated, I waited for the next train back to Interlaken, where, on arrival, the skies absolutely opened.
In the end I had a 35 minute wait at Interlaken for the train back to Bern, and by the time I arrived back at the main station it was already 7pm, so I headed back to the hotel, dropped my stuff off and went out for dinner.
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I checked out of the hotel, but took advantage of their luggage storage facilities and headed back out to the station and for the third day in a row back out to Interlaken (I was beginning to think it may have been wiser to have stayed in Interlaken rather than Bern!) and for the second day in a row onto Meiringen. Today, however, I would be able to go up to the Alpen tower, as it was only mid-morning when I reached the base station. The journey up to the tower, almost at the summit of Planplatten is spectacular. The first cable car, a large 80-person effort, runs every half an hour up to the fist station. From there you change onto a small gondola car that runs up to two further stations, where you change again for a final gondola up to the tower. The only way to reach the tower is by cable car or on foot. The tower itself houses a small restaurant and a bar, but also offers views over the whole region (or what you could see of it through the rolling clouds that kept coming and going over the mountains.)
The journey up took quite a long time, as I just missed the first cable car, and had to wait the best part of 30 minutes. I timed my descent with the intention of not having to wait so long, a relatively easy feat when the descent from the Alpen tower to the main cable car takes 25 minutes, just leave at the same time as the previous departure! When I got back to Meiringen I wandered back to the station, just in time to miss the train (bang goes the idea of integrated Swiss transport), which meant a 25-minute wait. This also meant I missed the connection at Brienz for the Brienzer Rothorn Bahn, which meant another 45 minute wait for that. But it was worth it.
The line climbs up nearly over 2,000 to the summit of Rothorn, on the way up it twists and turns back and forth over the side of the mountain offering stunning views of Brienz and the lake and beyond to Interlaken, Innerkirchen, and across (when the cloud briefly parted) to the Jungfrau and the mountains in that region. The other fascinating part of the journey is how you ascend up. It’s a pretty straightforward cogwheel railway, except that it is still being powered by the same steam engines that have always run the service.
On the way up the cloud kept rolling in and at one point I thought that we would disappear into a fog, but the train kept ascending, and like a plane, rose above the lower cloud and as it reached the top of the mountain the sky cleared for dazzling sunshine to light up the mountain side, the valley and lakes.
I had a wander around at the top, but there is only a souvenir shop/café and a hotel, so I caught the same train back down 35 minutes later, arriving back in Brienz with enough time to make the train back to Interlaken, and enough time there to catch the train back to Bern.
At Thun, the last stop before Bern what appeared to be the entire army was standing on the station, all waiting to catch the train back to Bern for connections on to home. It would appear that the Swiss army only work Monday to Fridays (hint here to neighbouring countries, if you want to mount an invasion, try starting about 7pm on a Friday, you have until 9am Monday morning to get dug in before the army reports back for work.)
At Bern I walked back to the hotel to pick up my bag, and then walked back to the station to catch the train, by now thankfully much emptier, all the soldiers had caught earlier connections, on to Zurich.
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I enquired about swapping, but was told that was all there was (I can only assume that when I placed my reservation five months earlier I was fortunate to be the very last person to be able to get a room – that or else they hadn’t bothered taking note of the request, or couldn’t be bothered to check). It was only later on, after checking my credit card statement that I found they had also charged my card Sf600 in advance, to be refunded if I didn’t do a bunk without paying (the total bill came to less then Sf300!)
I headed back into the centre of Zurich and had a wander around for an hour or so before heading back to the hotel and my (still) stinking (literally) room.
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The very name conjures up images of un-numbered bank accounts, which it has lots of – unlike the Swiss who were kind of forced to clean up their act in the 1980’s and 90’s everyone, except those not wishing the whole world to know their true worth (or at least their own nations tax inspectors), forgot about Liechtenstein so it has carried on. It is estimated that some Sf 125,000,000,000 (Sf 125 Billion, about £50 Billion) is in the vaults of the various banks in the country. Though it is quite difficult to call it a country when you consider its size. It’s barely 25Km from North to South, less than 10Km wide at its widest point, and a very large part of it is mountain! Though into this space it still manages to cram a massive financial industry, 35,000 people and a large amount of false teeth. For some reason that I could find no explanation for Liechtenstein is the world’s largest exporter of false teeth. I suppose someone had to be! And the final bit of trivia, that might never come is use. Liechtenstein, along with Afghanistan, are the only two countries in the world that are doubly landlocked, i.e. there are two countries between them and the sea.
I arrived in the Capital Village (I would use City, but that is more synonymous with great Metropolises like London, Paris or Madrid, not a place that you can walk the entire length of in less than 5 minutes), Vaduz just on lunchtime and had a brief wander around the centre. I joined the citytrain tour for a short tour around the centre and outskirts of Vaduz. The tour stops briefly below the castle so that you can get a view of the imposing building; it’s closed to the public as the Prince and his family still live there. The tour also goes past several of the vineyards that are scattered across the village centre; wine being one of the next major industries, after “doubly-landlocked-off-shore-banking” and false teeth.
Having been on the tour I had a look around the Liechtenstein Landesmuseum. The museum has exhibits on archaeology and the history of Liechtenstein. It also has a collection of stuffed animals, at least one of each kind of animal that lives in the country. Given how well presented and fresh the animals looked I had the distinct feeling that these were ancient museum pieces which where killed in a different time when people accepted this, rather that these might have still been alive not that long ago and were killed for the museum, I could well be wrong, but as there were no signs in English and nothing obvious in German about the animals, and they were in a part of the museum which is almost brand new…
I left the museum and wandered back to the bus station where I picked up the bus to Malbun on the South Easter side of the country. The journey up to Malbun is spectacular as you climb up hairpin bend roads into the mountains. Just before Steg the road moves into the mountains, through a tunnel and out the other side before climbing the last part into Malbun. The village itself is very pretty, in the end of a valley that looks every part the geography textbook glacial valley. But the main reason for coming here is the ski lift. Open all year round it zips you up to the top of the Sareiserjoch Mountain for views across the Alps and down into Austria. There is also a very nice restaurant with a sun terrace, which today was living up to its name, next to the summit station where I stopped for a bite to eat.
I caught the lift back down to the bottom in time to catch the bus halfway back to Vaduz, and halfway down the mountain as well, to the village of Triesenberg. From here there are views across to the other border, that with Switzerland. This one is far easier to make out. Mountains on either side line a wide valley bottom, along the middle of which runs the river Rhine, not that far from it’s source, and still a long way from it’s might as it powers through industrial Western Germany. This is the natural border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein and it is possibly one of the world’s most beautiful borders.
I had 35 minutes to wait for the bus back down into Vaduz, where I would then have another 25 minute wait for the bus back to Sargans and Zurich. I then spied a “Wanderweg” sign (signed walking route) pointing to Vaduz, 1hour. I decided that it might be nicer to walk back down the mountain into Vaduz than catch the bus.
The route initially is along roads, but soon becomes a farm track, and even this eventually peters out into a small footpath down through woods. After about 2Km of the path it emerges back onto a road, a couple of hundred meters up from Vaduz castle. You continue to walk along the road, right past the main entrance to the Princes home (no police, or security guards, just lots of signs saying private) and a bit further down you can look up the road to a stunning view of the castle in full. The footpath then comes away from the road again and descends down into the centre of town. I arrived back at the bus stop with about 5 minutes to spare before the bus, almost exactly one hour after leaving Triesenberg.
I caught the bus back to Sargans and the train back to Zurich, which with the ruthless efficiency of the Swiss transport network connect with each other with a couple of minutes to spare so that you can walk gently over to the platform, but still not have long to wait. I left the station in Zurich and had a brief wander around the city centre in the fading light, before heading back to the hotel for a bit to eat and an early night as I wanted to be out early on Sunday.
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I had about 30 minutes to spare, so I had a quick look around the city centre, including a walk across the Kappellbrücke, a wooden covered bridge, which goes part way across the river then turns at an abrupt angle to reach the shore. In each set of roof beams is a painting of a religious scene. Most of the paintings and wood are sadly replicas due to a fire in 1993, but you still get the effect of this 14th Century masterpiece. I had a quick look around the rest of the city centre, and then wandered back to the quay.
The boat sails across the lake that Luzern lies on, crossing backwards and forwards to make several stops, before finally arriving at the change over point at midday. From here there is the usual tourist scramble as people try to make it to the train station ahead of the crowds. The train ride up is very spectacular, if only for the angle at which it climbs, given that there are no wires or pulleys hauling the train up, it’s all done on it’s own little engine, it gets up gradients of 48% (effectively a 45 degree angle!) through a low cloud bank and up to the summit of Mount Pilatus. The whole journey from Luzern to the summit takes about 2 and a half hours, the journey back down can be done in 45 minutes.
I had a wander around the summit for a while. In addition to the usual gift shop and restaurant there are also two hotels, so that you can stay up here if you wished to. There are several walks around the top of the mountain, but given the fact the cloud had really closed in, to the extent that you could barely see 10 meters in front of you, I thought that might not be such a good idea, so after having a final look around, I joined the queue for the cable car down the mountain.
The journey back down is in three stages, stage one a 25 person cable car that takes you down to a small sports and activities park, then 4 person gondolas that take you down to the bottom of the mountain, and then a 15 minute bus ride back into the city centre. The only problem is that the first cable car section only runs every 15 minutes, but the hourly trains bring up about 100 people at a time, meaning that there is always a queue. I thankfully managed to get onto the second car, having only waited about 20 minutes.
I arrived at the sports and activities park and decided to have a go on the toboggan run. This is a metal slide, which you go down on sitting on a plastic toboggan. It was really great fun, so fun in fact that I had a second go down, got over confident, went to fast and very nearly crashed on a bend. I thankfully managed to keep myself and toboggan on the run, but it was a close thing. By the time I got back up to the top, I decided it was probably time to take the second cable car back down to Luzern.
After swapping onto a bus at the bottom of the mountain I arrived back in Luzern just before half three, and went straight to one of the main attractions in the town. The Löwendenkmal. This is a monument to the Swiss solders who died trying to defend the French royal family during the French revolution and is of a fatally wounded lion carved into the rock. Next door is another rock carving, but this is slightly older.
The glacial garden was discovered in the late nineteenth century when the areas owner was clearing the ground ready for an extension to his wine cellar. He came across strange marks on the rock, and further excavations revealed the rock record of where a glacier had once moved across what is not Luzern. The area has been preserved, including several pot holes that were formed underneath the glacier by melt water at high pressure, and they look like perfectly carved funnels.
After looking around the glacial garden I headed back across town to catch the funicular up the hill to Château Gutsch. The Château itself is now a restaurant and hotel, but the views from the balcony over the city and lakes are stunning. I took these in for a while, before heading back to the station to catch the train back to Zurich
The last time I had come to Zurich had been just before Christmas, and the weather meant that it had been impossible to get a good view of the city from the hills above it. Today I intended on correcting that. After arriving back from Luzern I hopped straight onto the S4 and headed up to Uetilberg. From the station I walked the short distance to the viewing tower and from there was rewarded with stunning views of the city centre, the lake and out across the mountains. In the distance, and with the use of the identifying chart on the railings I could make out Mount Pilatus, and almost directly behind it the Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch. I climbed back down from the viewing platform and took the train back down the mountain, heading part of the way into the rapidly setting sun. I stopped in town for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel for some sleep.
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On arrival back at the main station I headed to the quay by the national museum to go for a ride on the river. Boats shuttle up and down the river to lake Zurich and then on to the casino. I got out where the river meets the lake to join one of the larger ships that run up and down the length of the lake. I boarded, with five minutes to spare the next departure, which was running the entire length of the lake down to Rapperswil. The journey takes about an hour and three quarters, but the views of the lakeside towns and villages were breathtaking.
I had a brief wander around Rapperswil and decided that I had created a new long German word – Europaeschermontagelschloßen – to define the process of the whole of Europe being shut on a Monday. Even half the shops were closed! I headed back to the railway station and took the S7 train back towards Zurich. This runs, for almost the whole length of its route along the side of the lake so you can take in more views, from a slightly raised level, including watching the boat you got off of about an hour earlier still only halfway up the lake.
Back in Zurich and I had about 90 minutes before I needed to head off for the airport so I had a brief wander around the town centre, taking the Polybahn from the riverside up to the University to take in some of the views, before finally crossing the river and climbing up onto the high ground overlooking the river and old town.
I wandered down to where the river and the lake meet to have a ride on the Ferris wheel which was in town for the summer, it was quite pleasant, up until the point that the rain started, whilst I was at the top and they were loading passengers at the bottom, I got quite wet in the two minutes or so that I was dangling there. By the time I had disembarked it was time to head back out to the airport, pick up my luggage, check in and head home
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I walked, what I thought would be the relativly short distance, to the hotel. This took the best part of 40 minutes in the end, but mostly because the pavements are so narrow that I had to keep stopping to move my bag out of the way, or pick it up.
I arrived at the hotel and checked in, dropped my stuff in the room and headed straight back out again for a wander around the city.
My first stop, as I had to cross it to get into the city centre was the Ponte Vecchio. The bridge is lined with small shops on both sides most of the way across. The shops give way to stunning views up and down the river from the middle.
I walked a little further on to the Piazza Della Signoria and had a look at the outside of the impressive town hall, with its statue of David outside. I had a bit more of a wander around the city centre. But by now was starting to feel quite tired from a long week at work, and nearly 9 hours of travelling, so I walked back to the hotel for a decent nights sleep.
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After having a quick look at the queues and the speed they were moving at I decided it was probably best to join the slowest one to begin with, that for the dome of the cathedral. You enter the cathedral by a side door, near the alter and then start your assent up the 430+ steps to the top. About a third of the way up you come out onto a gallery just beneath the foot of the dome, which gives you stunning views of the painted dome above you, and stomach churning views down to the marble and gold of the sanctuary below. Having walked half way around the dome on the gallery you start to ascend the dome itself, in a small, winding stairway sandwiched between the outer and inner skins of the dome. The final 30 steps or so are up over the inner skin and out onto the roof, just below the lantern. The views are breathtaking and take in not only the city, but out to the suburbs and the mountains beyond.
On the way down you again get to have a view of the inside of the dome, walking round a gallery a bit above the one on the way up, actually at the foot of the dome, and where the paintings start. By the time I had descended back down to ground level I had climbed up and down well over 800 steps. Of course, the best way to relax after that is to climb the 414-step bell tower. The bell tower benefits from having regular floors where different bits of bell equipment would have been stored, so there are far more opportunities to stop both on the way up and on the way back down. The views, once again are impressive, more so for the views afforded of the cathedral and its dome.
Having ascended and descended excess of 1,500 steps in a little over an hour I headed round to the front of the cathedral to have a look inside the building itself. The queue that was outside was deceptive. Whilst it looked very long, it only took about three minutes to get into the building. The queue is formed purely because the entry door is only wide enough to let one person through at a time. I had a look around the inside of the Cathedral, and was pleased that I had gone up the dome as it was not possible to get that close to the dome or the alter. I also popped down into the crypt of the cathedral to have a look at the remains of an earlier church built on the same site.
After looking around the cathedral I headed back round the front to the Baptistery. This is the oldest part of the complex, and currently undergoing extensive renovation on the outside. Inside it is simply spectacular with its golden roof well worth the entrance fee. With my feet now well and truly exhausted I headed the short distance to the Piazza della Repubblica for a quick bite to eat, followed by a quick postcard stop by the post office and then onto the Uffizi gallery to see how bad the queue is.
The Uffizi is officially the busiest tourist attraction in Italy, and the guide books all told tales of woe of 4-hour queues and still not getting in. They emphasises buying tickets in advance and how you would not be likely to get in just by turning up. In the end I was pleasantly surprised, not only by the fact the queue was only 90 minutes long, but also because the gallery was free to get into, I hadn’t noticed (possibly because the UK doesn’t take part in things that the EU suggest), but this weekend was European Heritage Days and most of the museums and galleries in Florence were free (shame the same didn’t apply to the Cathedral.) This had the added advantage of not making me feel too guilty about the fact that I would probably be round the gallery relatively quickly. All the climbing of the morning, added to 90 minutes queuing had given me a hefty dose of museum feet, even before I had started.
In the end I went with the flow, as most people were moving round quite quickly, bypassing the large tour groups and only stopping at the “crown jewels” of the collection – the odd Botticelli, a Caravaggio or two – that kind of thing. By the time I left the gallery I had spent nearly two hours inside, and felt that I had seen all that I would be able to take in.
From the Uffizi I walked the short distance back to the river and across to the southern bank, from there I walked up stream for a short while before I reached the Porta San Niccolò. From there it was a short walk up the steps and terraces to the Piazzale Michelangelo, a glorified car park, but offering stunning views over the city.
I walked on a little further to the Chiesea di San Miniato al Monte from where there are even more stunning views before deciding that it didn’t look that far to walk along the road back down to the Porta Romana and the hotel. In the end my scale reading skills proved to be badly out as it took nearly an hour, in the fading light, but it was a pleasant walk and the views, before the road started to descend back down into the city, were stunning.
After having a quick comfort stop in the hotel I headed back out again in search of dinner and some evening sightseeing.
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Today the palace houses a series of museums, as well as the former quarry out the back which has been turned into the spectacular Boboli gardens. In the space of a couple of hours, and without stopping even to have a quick drink I made my way through the Galleria Palatina, Galleria del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Museum della Procellane and then out to have a wander around the Giardino di Boboli.
Having done all that I then headed back across the city to the Accademia, home to the worlds most famous statue – Michelangelo’s David – and had a look around that before finally stopping for an exceptionally late lunch/slightly early dinner.
After my meal break I headed over to the station to pick up the bus out to Fiesole. Fiesole is a settlement which is much older than Florence, and has at times been more important than the city. Today it is a dormitory town of Florence, but still has it’s own character. After a crowded bus journey up to the town I had a quick wander around before stopping off at the Archaeological zone and the Bandini museum before having a look around the cathedral.
I caught the bus back down into Florence and had a brief wander around before marking the official end of summer.
October 1st is the first day of the winter season in Florence, with many of the museums reducing their hours. Most noticeable amongst Florence’s attractions changing its operating times are the open-top hop-on-hop-off busses. Today was the last day that evening trips operated on any of their routes, so to be able to see Florence and the surrounding area at night from a bus tonight was my last opportunity.
I boarded the Route B bus on the South bank of the Arno, near one of the old city gates. This tour went around part of the city centre, before once again climbing up the hills into Fiesole. The views at night, with the valley a sea of twinkling lights is spectacular. I stayed on the bus back round to the train station, where it connected with the Route A bus through the city. This took in many of the sights of the city centre, and then climbed up the hill to the Piazzale Michelangelo where is stopped for a brief while, before completing the same route back down to the Porta Romana that I had done the previous evening. Yesterday it took me nearly an hour. The bus did it in barely over five. From the Porta Romana stop it was just a short walk back to the hotel, where exhausted I headed for a relatively early night.
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Whilst I had done the tours the previous evening, not much of the scenery was visible outside of town, and inside there was limited scope for photos due to the fact that it was night! To correct for this I caught the normal bus up to the station and started my day of sitting down not doing very much by boarding the bus back out to Fiesole. I had seen some of the views in daylight yesterday on the way up to the Archaeological area, but as the bus had been very full, much of the scenery was obscured by armpits and elbows. On the top deck of a bus, when you are sitting by where the window should be, the views are uninterrupted and simply magnificent.
Having taken in the views up and back to Fiesole I changed busses a couple of stops back from the station onto the city line. For two stops I had to stand on the lower deck, but the bus half emptied at the station and I was able to grab a decent upstairs seat before the next wave of passengers boarded. With a little bit of self satisfaction I noticed that a couple of people who were on the bus from Fiesole had stayed onto the station and were unable to get seats.
I stayed on the bus for one full circuit of the route, and then went round another couple of stops to one of the few attractions open on a Monday, the Basilica di Santa Croce. I spent well over an hour looking around the church and the museum, before heading back towards the centre of town and stopping off in a little café for a late lunch/early Chianti. By now most of the sites that were open were in the process of closing, so with a bit of time on my hand, and with a lovely warm sun, I decided the easiest, and laziest thing to do would be to catch the Fiesole bus once again and spend a couple of hours sunning myself.
By the time I got back into town the streetlamps were just starting to come on, so it was time to make one last stop for the evening before dinner. From the station I caught a number 13 bus up to the Piazzale Michelangelo to take some pictures of the city at night.
During the day the views from up here of the city are glorious, at night they are possibly even better, with the lights of the riverside roads illuminating the Arno, the dome and bell tower of the cathedral still dominating the city, but muted slightly as they are not heavily floodlit, so they can merge more with the background of the city.
I spent a bit of time up at the Piazzale before catching the bus back down to the station and walking towards the cathedral in search of dinner.
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The train creaked and rattled through the countryside between the two cities, stopping, it felt like, at every other town along the way. Eventually, after nearly an hour and a quarter it pulled into Pisa Centrale. I hunted down the left luggage office and dropped my bag off, before heading out into the town.
Large swathes of Pisa at the time of visiting were being dug up, so getting from the station was made even trickier. Trying to walk around holes in the road; pavements which were about as even and level as the cities most famous landmark; and drivers who, obviously impatient at the delays caused by the road works, were exhibiting behaviour what would normally be described as “baseless stereotypes” but in this case were every bit as bad as all the stereotypes make out; made the walk longer and scarier than it should have been.
It took about 15 minutes to walk across the town to the Piazza Dei Miracoli, home to the world’s most famous building cock-up. You’ve seen the pictures, you’ve heard the engineers and the scientists, but nothing quite prepares you for how out of alignment the tower is on first sight, and how it now, thanks to a bodged attempt to make it straight after the first couple of layers had been built – it curves towards the top. Should they ever get the bottom level, the top will still lean, as one sides supports were built longer to try to counter the lean.
First stop was the ticket office to try and see if I could book a ticket to go up the tower. I wasn’t hopeful, all the guide books went on about how you had to book weeks in advance. In the end, the next tour I could book on was only 40 minutes later, so I brought my ticket, along with entry to all the other sites around the cathedral complex.
The leaning tower, whilst being the most famous, is not the most important structure in the Piazza Dei Miracoli. The tower is merely the bell tower of the Cathedral which stands next door to it, beyond that is the baptistery and the cemetery. In addition there are also two museums on the site.
I figured, that I had enough time before my journey up the tower to have a look around the baptistery, then joined the queue for the tower. Having climbed up and down the tower, one of the most bizarre climbs up a building I’ve ever made, I had a look around the Cathedral and the Cemetary before stopping for a quick snack.
After a brief lunch I boarded the open top bus for a tour of the rest of the city. An hour later it deposited me back at the Piazza and I had enough time in the hour between services to look around the two museums before picking the bus back up, catching it round to the station, picking up my luggage and making the train back to the airport in time to check in.
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I strolled out of work at 11:30 on a Friday morning, for the second time in a month, and made my way up to central London and then across town to Paddington. After stopping briefly for a bite to eat, I wandered down to the platform and onto the train out to Exeter
I knew that if everything ran to time I had 17 minutes to make my connection at Exeter, with the Barnstaple train which only ran once an hour. By Tiverton parkway, the stop before Exeter the train was already running nearly 15 minutes late, and then seamed to wait on the platform for ages.
Thankfully, it managed to find some time from somewhere and by the time we pulled into Exeter, to discover that the Barnstaple train left from the opposite side of the same platform, the train was only 10 minutes late.
I settled down into a seat on what I thought would be a relatively empty train, but turned out to be almost as packed at 4:30 on a Friday as a London commuter train. The service meanders its way through the Devon countryside. Officially it only stops at two intermediate stations, and several more are available on request, despite stopping at most of these and people getting off at each one, the train was still almost full when it eventually pulled into Barnstaple
My friends met me at the station and drove me back to their place, before we walked the mile and a bit back into town for the evening, taking in some of the main sights of town on the way.
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If it were possible, Woolacombe was even more packed with surfers than Saunton Sands had been. Everywhere you looked there were people on their way to or from the beach, surf board in hand. The only reminder that you were in the UK and not Hawaii was the fact that all the surfers were dressed in full body wetsuits and those coming back from the water shivering slightly.
We stopped for a late lunch of Pasties (The Devonians are slowly appropriating all off the good cultural bits of the Cornish, whilst still actually being friendly to tourists!) and had a quick walk along the beach before heading back to Barnstaple.
Whilst my friends got on with things they had to do I had a look around the town centre. I had a good wander around through the little lanes and alley ways of the centre, stopping at the museum of Barnstaple and North Devon for a look around before taking in the Pannier market and Butchers row.
I wandered back down to the riverside in time to meet my friends and head back to theirs for dinner and a night in watching, despite everything, the English beating the French in the Rugby.
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After leaving there we drove on and up into Exmoor, taking in many of the little lanes and passes which go through the heart of the Mooreland. We stopped briefly to pick up some sandwiches in Lorna Doon country, at the end of the Doon valley, before heading into Somerset and up to the edge of the moor where it meets the sea for some spectacular views. Sadly, the cloud was a little bit too low to be able to see across the Bristol Channel to Wales, but the views across the top of Devon and Somerset are still spectacular.
After a quick ice-cream it was time to start heading back to Barnstaple. A quick look at the clock showed that it had taken nearly 2 hours to reach this point from leaving the sculpture garden, and my train was in just over an hour.
Thankfully, there is a much more direct road around the top of Exmoor and down into Barnstaple. For part of the time it was touch and go as to whether we were going to make it in time, but in the end we pulled into the forecourt of Barnstaple station with nearly 20 minutes to spare, we could have had a second ice-cream!
Sundays are notoriously bad for travelling by train in the UK, not only are the services less frequent and the train shorter, but regular engineering works as well, and today was no different. Whilst the train from Barnstaple ran as normal, at least as far as Exeter (it was replaced for the rest of its journey south by a bus), the train back to Paddington meandered its way through Devon and Somerset, taking nearly three hours to do the same journey that had taken only two hours in the opposite direction, on the plus side though, my seat was right by the buffet so it was convenient for refreshment stops!
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Sadly, I had calculated all this without the help of Travelodge, their tiny fine print and their money grabbing! By the time I arrived at the Travelodge it was a little after 10pm, but I didn’t think this was going to be a problem. I was wrong. It appeared that they had managed to do a little overbooking on their rooms, and consequently had left themselves with very few rooms for sale on the day. By the time I arrived, they had already made the decision that I wasn’t going to arrive (according to the very small print I eventually managed to track down several days later on their website, the price I had was a non-refundable price and I had to let them know if I was going to be later that 21:30, my understanding would be that if I had pre-paid for the room, and they have a 24 hour reception, the time I arrive should be pretty irrelevant).
The upshot of it was at 10pm I found myself being told that I didn’t have a room, wasn’t going to get a refund and there was nothing I could do about it. A quick call later (by me, on my mobile, at my expense) to the telesales team got a small conession out of them. They had been a bit quick in reselling the room I had paid for, and therefore they were refunding my £26, but that still left the issue of not having a room for the night, and being stuck a good 2 hours from home, and a very early wake-up call, if I decided to head back home.
Thankfully, ETAP stepped into the breach. I had walked down to the ETAP on the grounds that if they didn’t have a space, I was most of the way back to the previous DLR station, and I could if need be head back into town. They had one room left, which they let me have for the rack rate of £39 (the additional £13 having to be paid for by me!). After grabbing some food from the next door petrol station I turned in for the night.
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The flight left a couple of minutes late, as they were waiting for the breakfasts to be loaded, given what a cooked airline breakfast is like, I would have preferred if they had left on time with the breakfasts left on the tarmac.
Whilst the plane claimed to have landed at Glasgow airport, by the time I had walked all the way through to the baggage reclaim belts it felt more likely that it had landed in Edinburgh! I got out to the bus stop just in time to miss the bus to Paisley. Thankfully, I only had about 10 minutes to wait for the next one, but I felt that so-far things had not been auspicious.
However, bad things do come in threes. I’d had the hotel problem, the name badge problem and now missing the bus, and that would appear to have accounted for all my bad luck. Thankfully I’m not superstitious, otherwise the fact the hotel checked me into room 101 would probably have pushed me over the edge!
The main purpose of coming up to Scotland had been to attend a conference, and for the next two days, that was what was going to be taking up all my time.
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After checking in, and doing a bit of work (it was only 3pm on a work day, and I felt a bit guilty), I headed out into town to get some dinner, only to walk into the manic celebrations that were taking place in the city centre. Earlier in the day, whilst I was on a train heading into the city centre, Glasgow had been awarded the Commonwealth Games, and needless to say, the populace were a little happy about this.
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The tour was due to take in some of the stunning natural scenery around the city, heading North past Loch Lomond and into Glencoe. With everyone already waiting the tour was able to start early and we headed out into the quiet streets of a city nursing the mother of all collective hangovers.
It’s the best part of an hours driving to get from Glasgow to the start of Loch Lomond, and then another 20 minutes or so before we reached our first stop at Inveruglas, just over half way up Loch Lomond. The views from here over the Loch are stunning, and with the shifting clouds and occasional shafts of sunlight, breathtaking.
From Inveruglas we headed north towards Glencoe. On the way we stopped a couple of times for photo stops, including at the impressive entrance to the glen. We continued on to the town of Glencoe where we stopped of lunch, before having a woodland and loch walk around the town.
After the walk we headed back through Glencoe and on down into Glenetive. This area is even more remote that Glencoe. We took in all the scenery and made it back onto the bus with just moments to spare before the dramatic sky that had made the photos look good, decided to do what it had been threatening and absolutely belt it down. Driving back, warm and dry inside the bus you couldn’t help but feel something towards the hikers, straining to lean into the wind, being battered by the rain. And that something was smugness!
A final coffee stop in Tyndrum and a chance to pick up some souvenirs before back onto the bus for the 90 minute drive back into Glasgow.
After grabbing a bite to eat in the city centre, I walked back to the hotel, this time crossing the river by the correct bridge, and making it back in a lot less time!
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After breakfast (which did appear to have some slightly burnt croissants as part of it) I grabbed my things ready for a day trip out to one of Scotland’s many islands. I walked into town to Central station and got there with nearly 40 minutes to spare before the train.
Or I would have had 40 minutes if it were not for the fact that it’s a Sunday, despite all the SNPs hard work Scotland is still part of the UK, and consequently the almost inevitable “Plannedsundayengineeringworksbussesreplacetrains” (it’s so common that it might as well all be one word!) was happening. I wandered out the front of the station and caught the replacement bus out to, of all places, Paisley, where the trains were starting from. The bus took 20 minutes longer that the train would have done, and consequently I made the train, rather than missing it, which I would have done, had I arrived at Central station much later.
The train runs to Wemyss Bay where you change onto the CalMac ferry across to the island of Bute. My reason for visiting was two fold, firstly for the stunning journey along the banks of the Clyde towards Wemyss, and the across the sea to Bute. Secondly it was to visit the castle in the capital of the islands Rothesay.
The castle is important not only to Scottish but also to British history. It was built in the 13th Century and lost twice to, and recaptured from, the Vikings in the first hundred years. The family who built it were the Stewarts, and it was their descendents, who made the castle their home, who first became kings of Scotland, and then in 1603, after the death of Elizabeth, James VI of Scotland became James I of England as well, and united the crowns of the two countries.
Much of the castle today is in ruins, but the main entrance has been rebuilt and houses a small museum.
Having looked around the castle I had a wander around the town for a short while before heading back to the ferry to take the journey back in the opposite direction. I arrived back in Glasgow a little before sunset so I caught the train out to the Exhibition centre and took some photos of a winters sunset on the Clyde, the cranes silhouetted against the clear sky, next to the modern bridges and the armadillo (Scottish exhibition and conference centre).
I walked back to the hotel and dropped off my stuff before wandering out for a bite to eat, and then an early night, in the hope of no more fire alarms.
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Like Edinburgh, Dumbarton has a lot of reminisces of once active volcanoes, and like Edinburgh it also has a castle built on the top of one, although in Dumbarton’s case it’s actually two volcanic plugs with a bit in the middle which forms a bizarre camel like hump rising up from the foreshore of the Clyde.
In the past it served as the westernmost outpost of the Scottish kingdom, when Bute and the other islands were still part of Norway. Mary Queen of Scots lived here, and it served as a prison for many of Scotland’s more infamous land owners (namely Early Patrick Stewart of the Orkneys and Shetlands)
Having looked around the castle and climbed up and down the nearly 600 steps, I headed back to the station and continued on a little further north to Balloch. The town, marks the point at which Loch Lomond becomes a river, for its short journey onto the sea.
The scenery round here is spectacular, but on a cold Novembers day, with the cloud starting to build, there is not much else to do, so I caught the train back into Glasgow.
By the time I arrived it was just before 3:30, so I decided to fill up my last couple of hours by taking the open top bus tour of the city, to see how much had changed in the five years since my last visit. In reality not much, there are still large building sites everywhere as the city in continually transformed and refurbished. If anything, in places, there were even more empty lots than there had been before. Whilst I was on the bus, thanfully in the covered part, the fine weather of the previous 48 hours decided to break, and a steady light rain started to fall. By the time I got back to George Square I still had well over three hours before my flight, but decided it was probably a good time to head for the warm and dry of the airport.
I picked up my bags from Queen street, walked the short distance to the bus station and caught the airport bus, out into the evening rush-hour traffic. I might have had three hours to make my flight, but some of my fellow passengers had obviously left things a little tighter, as there were some anxious tuts and fidgets coming as the bus crawled along the motorway, stuck in the rush hour traffic. A journey that should have taken 20 minutes took nearly 50, but I didn’t mind. I still had a long wait at the airport.
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An even less eventful flight later we landed in Lisbon, I zoomed through the airport, but my friend, who was travelling on an American rather than an EU passport, spent a good 30 minutes getting through passport control.
We caught the bus into town and checked into the hotel before going on a short spot of sightseeing up the Santa Justa lift, before heading off for a spot of dinner, and then bed.
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After looking around the palace we then went for a walk through the grounds of the park. This was something that I had not done when I visited the first time, and it turned out that it had been a mistake to miss them on the first occasion as the grounds are as spectacular as the palace, offering stunning views from rocky outcrops back over not only the surrounding countryside, but also close up to the palace itself.
The walk eventually brought us out at the bottom of the gardens, below the Moorish castle, and by a bizarre duck house built in the style of a middle-ages castle. We walked up the roadside path, which meandered through the trees up to the castle. After stopping to purchase tickets, we walked down to the castle to have a look around. Unfortunately, at this point, my friends vertigo kicked in, and I can understand why, as there are sheer drops either side of steps with no handrail, and trying to explain that they have been standing like this for over 1000 years without any issue, doesn’t appear to make sufferers any more likely to respond positively.
We walked back from the castle to the bus stop, where we waited for the next bus, which was 10 minutes away. When it arrived it sailed past absolutely packed to the gunwales so we waited another 20 minutes for the next bus. This one turned up packed, three people got off, and then got straight back on again, the bus then pulled off, without having picked anyone up. At this point we decided it was probably best to forget trying to use the bus to get back down to Sintra centre, so instead we walked back towards the castle, and followed the path down the hill to the town. The walk down is quite strenuous over un-even and rocky paths with large steps and a steep incline. Thankfully, we were walking downhill; I dread to think that it would be like to climb back up in the opposite direction.
About 40 minutes after leaving the bus stop (and probably an hour before any of those waiting managed to get onto a bus) we arrived back in the centre of Sintra and made our way towards the station. We caught the train back into Lisbon, and stopped off at the hotel, as my friend wanted a quick rest before we headed out for dinner.
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After a brief stop for coffee we headed down the hill to the cathedral where we had a look around that. From the cathedral we caught the tram down to the centre, and then the newly restored Gloria Funicular up to the São Roque. The church from the outside is very plain, but inside the church is spectacular. Cherubs, gilt, icons, its all there.
From the church we wandered down to the metro station at Baxia and caught the metro out to the Parque das Nações, where we stopped for lunch before having a wander through the gardens and a ride back on the cable car.
We caught the bus back into town and wandered over to catch the tram round through the Alfalma, arriving at the tramstop, and more importantly under the shelter, just minutes before a spectacular downpour sent everyone else dashing for cover, whilst the rain continued we remained on the tram, all the way round to Estrella, where we visited the basilica. After looking around we caught the bus back to the hotel to drop stuff off before heading out to Belém for dinner.
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With the weather starting to clear a little, and even patches of blue sky starting to appear, we caught the train out to Cascais, where, after wandering around for a bit we had a very late lunch in some weak afternoon sun, which towards the end of the meal started to turn into a fine drizzle, but we decided to be British about it and sit the rain out, which, thankfully, only turned out to be a short bit of drizzle and then nothing more.
We had a further wander around the town centre before heading back to Lisbon and across to the Christo Rei statue on the opposite bank. At this point my friends vertigo kicked in and she decided that she did not want to go up the statue, so I went up by myself. The views were possibly more stunning than when I last visited. Then it had been weeks on continuously hot sunny weather, the pollution and haze had built up and it had been hard to get clear views to places in the further distance.
After all the rain and thunder storms of the last few days, which had now cleared to a final bank of cloud disappearing south behind me, and a few light clouds over the centre of Lisbon, the views were clear, with the Pena Palace and Moorish castle, high on their hills over Sintra clearly visible in the far distance, the sun was now peaking out from behind the last banks of clouds, just getting ready to set behind the statue and bathing Lisbon in a warm, very photographical light.
I came down from the statue and met back up with my friend, who had been perfectly happy to take in the views in the shadow of the monument, we caught the bus, ferry and metro back to the hotel to drop off stuff, and to have a pre-dinner drink before heading out for dinner at Lisbon’s largest and oldest Beer hall, a gigantic barrel roofed restaurant that stretched back for a long way, and served very good food.
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We took the Santa Justa lift up to the Convent do Carmo overlooking the city to look around the remains of the Earthquake ravaged church, and take advantage of their facilities, for the port the previous evening had appeared to be a good idea at the time, but wasn’t so much now.
After looking around the Convent we headed back down in the lift to Rossio and caught the metro up to the top of the Parque Eduardo VII. The park was named in honour of the British Monarch who came to reaffirm the Anglo-Portuguese alliance (Portugal is England’s oldest ally) in 1902. From the top of the park you can look down the length of it, down the hill it is on, towards the roundabout and statue at the Praça Marquês de Pombal and from there on down the Avenida da Liberadade towards the Tejo in the distance.
Based in the park is the botanical gardens, so we popped into here to have a look around, and take advantage of their facilities, for the port the previous evening had appeared to be a good idea at the time, but wasn’t so much now.
From the Botanical gardens we walked down to the bottom of the park, and then headed down the Avenida da Liberadade stopping part way down for a very pleasant lunch in a little street-side café. We continued walking down, and near Rossio stopped again at another café, partly to have another coffee, but also to take advantage of their facilities, for the port the previous evening had appeared to be a good idea at the time, but wasn’t so much now.
With very little time left before we had to head to the airport, my friend wanted to go on a final tram ride through the streets of the Alfama, so we caught a 28 round up through the Alfama and back to the city centre past the Cathedral. Having arrived back near the Praça do Comércio we walked the short distance to the hotel, picked up our bags and hopped on the AeroBus back to the airport. When we got there we took advantage of their facilities, for the port the previous evening had appeared to be a good idea at the time, but wasn’t so much now.
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The transformation has been spectacular. The grim and dark station has been replaced with a light bright and airy space. Sadly, it appeared that, not everything was a shiny and spectacular as all the press hype of the previous few weeks had lead people to believe. Most of the shop units were still empty and the much-heralded push towards using electronic ticketing wasn’t working.
After four separate attempts to get my tickets out of the automatic machine I had to queue up in the ticket office, where they claimed that I must have used a completely different card to make my booking, which just happened to have exactly the same number as the one I was presenting! After a short discussion on this (and a tacit admission from the ticket office person that their systems were not up to scratch), they decided to rebook my tickets for the same trains and seat and reissue them that way!
Having negotiated the check-in, I walked through security to the departures lounge, to another disappointment. Whilst Waterloo had been light with lots of shops, cafes and a bar, St Pancras had one very small WHSmiths, a small bar and a small Café Nero’s and nowhere near enough seating.
Still, this was all made up for when the train departed. When I first went to Brussels in 2004 the train had taken over and hour and a quarter to wander through the suburbs of South East London and Kent, before finally reaching the channel tunnel. Today, we hit the tunnel exactly 30 minutes after pulling out of St Pancras, a bit of a change. In fact the journey is so fast from London to the Tunnel that you now spot that the train slows quite considerably to go through the tunnel, and then doesn’t really speed up again as it picks it way gingerly across the Northern French and Southern Belgium land, still undermined by the trenches of the first World War. Less than two hours after pulling out of St Pancras the train pulled into Brussels and I made a quick transfer to the hotel.
After checking in, I caught the tram back to Bourse and had a wander around the Christmas market that stretches around the Bourse and Grand Place area of the city centre. The Grand Place itself is turned into the focal point of the Christmas celebrations with a massive crib, Christmas tree and a light and sound show projected onto the Hôtel de Ville during the evening.
I watched the light show for the best part of an hour, whilst munching my way through a couple of hot waffles, and a glass of hot wine, before heading off to take in more of the city at night.
I caught the tram out to Heysel home to the Atomium, after the Mannekin-Pis; probably the next most famous Brussels land mark. By the time I reached Heysel the fog was starting to settle, and a heavy frost had already started, making the streets and parks look as if it had snowed.
The Atomium has recently been given a multi-million Euro clean and refurbishment, with the spheres now having sparkling lights embedded in them. Combined with the shine of the recently cleaned spheres and the light being reflected from the frost on the ground it made for a spectacular sight.
After looking around the area for a while, I headed back into town, stopping for another quick waffle, before heading back to the hotel and a good nights sleep.
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My first stop of the morning was Tervuren, the small town to the East of the city, which I had visited briefly on my last visit. The town is home to one of the most spectacular museums in Belgium.
Set in parkland, which with a light mist, and all the frost, made for a perfect winter picture, the museum was built in 1908 to house a collection of artefacts brought back from the personal African lands of King Leopold I. For decades they have been displayed as originally intended as a display of how the Belgium people had paternalistically looked after the savage natives of the colonies. A few years ago the museum closed for a refurbishment, and a re-evaluation of Belgium’s role in Central Africa. Whilst the behaviour of other European nations towards the peoples of Africa cannot be excused, the former Belgium colonies suffered the most, and have continued to be some of the most badly affected in Africa. Rwanda, Burundi and the Democratic Republic Congo (formerly Zaire) have all too often hit international attention for the wrong reasons. When the museum reopened it still had the same artefacts on display, but they have been uncompromising in telling the truth. The words loot, plunder and genocide appear on the display cards, referring to the actions of the colonials. It makes for an interesting museum, which helps to give an insight into the cultures that King Leopold imposed Belgium rule on.
By the time I left the museum it was early afternoon, so I headed back into town and then out to Heysel again to have a look around the refurbished Atomium. In the end it took nearly two hours to get back there, and after having had a quick look around I headed for the snack bar to grab an exceptionally late lunch, before finishing off looking around and taking in the views from the top sphere.
From Heysel I caught the metro out to Simonis and walked up to the Basilique de Sacré Coeur, where I had intended on having another look around and to take in the sights from the roof. However, the church was hosting a roving exhibition on Leonardo da Vinci, which is travelling around Europe. However, given that I had already seen it for free in Rome in February and decided not to bother with it when it reached Vilnius in May I baulked at the idea of paying €10 to see something I had already seen, just so that I could get the views from the panorama platform.
Instead, I headed back into town to visit the Christmas market and do a spot of last minute present shopping. Whilst shopping I meandered through several roads of restaurants, and by the time I had brought everything I wanted was famished by the beautiful smells emanating from all around. I chose a decent looking seafood restaurant just around the corner from the Grand Place. Sated after a very pleasant evening meal, I headed back to the hotel to, python like, sleep it off
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Located about 12Km to the South of Brussels in the Walloon (French Speaking) region of Belgium, is a small, and at first glance, quite standard Euro town (i.e. it has the same identikit list of shops that is present in virtually every town from Galway to Tallinn). However, it’s name tells of a more interesting and important past. The town is Waterloo and it was in fields to the south of here that a new Europe was created.
Just outside the town is the Lion Monument, around which are a host of tourist attractions that explain the details and history of the battle. In a distilled format, Napoleon having previously being deposed and sent into exile has come back and is still intent on taking over the world, a coalition of the willing was formed to “Regime change” France (heard any of these phrases before?) A combination of British, Dutch, Prussian and other nations combined to taken on the French. In June 1815, in a field outside of Waterloo the French met the British and Dutch forces. Battle raged for over ten hours, but the tide turned towards the end when the Prussians arrived and eventually the French retreated in disarray, Napoleon himself only just escaped capture by the Prussians, and eventually surrendered himself to the British who promptly exiled him again, this time permanently.
The battle ended French power in Europe, effectively lead to the creation of modern day Belgium and Germany, and for a while, appeared to bring peace to the continent. It would be nearly 100 years before serious fighting broke out again.
Today you can take it all in in a “spectacular” audio-visual presentation (their use of the word spectacular, not mine!) climb the lion monument to get views over the battlefield, and go on a tour of the main areas of the battle on the equivalent of an off-road land train. After having done all of these, and a few other things, I had effectively exhausted all there was to do in Waterloo so I caught the bus back into Brussels. Unfortunately, it appeared that most of the rest of Wallonia were also heading into Brussels, on the same bus. I only just got on and then had to spend a long 90 minutes (which was odd as the outward journey had only been 45 minutes) standing up jammed into a packed bus.
By the time I arrived back into Brussels there was just enough time to pay a quick visit to the Mannekin-Pis who was in his finest Christmas clothes, before heading back to the Gare du Midi to pick up my bags and catch the train home.
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After a bite to eat for dinner, and a not particularly pleasant pint in the bar, I headed to bed for an early night ready for urrghh O’clock the following morning to get to the airport for my 7am flight!
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My booking had originally been quite straight forward, then Opodo had started with the minor changes to times, which then became major changes to times, and then changes to flight numbers and a request to send back the tickets to have them re-issued. I had done all this, but 10 days prior to leaving I still hadn’t had the replacement tickets and had had to contact Opodo to find out what was going on. They said that they had converted the tickets to eTickets rather than paper ones, but I wasn’t completely convinced that they hadn’t messed up, so I wanted to be at the Airport early to be able to sort out any issue. In the end Opodo had been true to their word. There was no queue at the check in desk, and 30 seconds after arriving my luggage was disappearing into the labyrinthine depths of Heathrow terminal 3 and I was in possession of three boarding cards.
After a quick breakfast in the departures lounge I wandered down to the gate, and shortly afterwards onto the plane, which promptly pushed back early and in a complete change of script to the normal events at Heathrow was airborne less than 10 minutes later, and most of that time was taken taxing to the runway. After arriving in Oslo, clearing customs, re-depositing my bag and re-clearing security, I found myself on board plane number two of the day. After another eventless flight I landed in the twilight of Tromsø at 13:30, transferred through the airport and at 2 o’clock started my third take-off roll of the day and lifted off into the darkness of a Polar winter.
By the time I arrived in Hammerfest it was just after half two, and it was dark. Seeing that it had been dark since November, and would remain dark for another month that was hardly surprising. What was surprising was how small the airport was and how lacking in services it was. Hammerfest is the most Northerly city in the world, and that is it’s main tourist credential, so you would have thought that taxi’s might have been waiting to meet the plane. Having said that, how may tourists visit the place in the middle of the polar winter, probably not many? Consequently I had to walk the 40 minutes or so into town and onto the hotel.
Having checked in I went out for a wander around town taking in some of the sights, or those that can be seen in perpetual darkness. I had wanted to go up to the restaurant and viewing platform on the cliff above the town, from where the views are supposedly spectacular. One way to reach this is by a 5KM walk along roads, the other is to climb the zigzag path up the side of the cliff. About three-quarters of the way up it became obvious that the slippery snow on the lower part of the climb was now turning into sheets of ice, so I took in the views from most of the way up, which were still pretty impressive, before descending back down to town and wandering back to the hotel to have some dinner (having at this point realised that all I had eaten all day was a sausage bap at Heathrow and a grilled sausage at Oslo) and then to participate in what makes a Hammerfest winter so special, in the words of a more literary traveller than myself – “I began to feel as if a doctor had told me to go away for a complete rest… Never have I slept so long and so well” (Bill Bryson, Neither here nor there)
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After my slightly bizarre breakfast I checked out (once again encountering a member of staff who was obviously not particularly rushed off their feet this morning) I wandered down into the centre of town to visit the Royal Polar Bear Society museum. When I got there I discovered that they had recently moved, back almost to where the hotel was!
After looking around the hotel I popped by the post office to get some postcards and stamps and sent those off before wandering up to the city’s other museum. Having taken in virtually all the sights of the city (there is a ruin of an old fortress and a monument to the first attempt to accurately map the size of the globe, which ended in Hammerfest in the 1850’s, but these are on a spit of land right round the other side of the harbour, and having walked from there the previous day on the way down from the airport I knew it would be the best part of an hours round trip for no real purpose.
By now the Hurtigruten had just docked so I walked back to the hotel, picked up my bags and broke my third record of the trip (first being the longest baggage tag I have ever had on a bag with three airport codes, the second being the furthest North I have ever been), the shortest distance ever between hotels, all of 100 meters.
Having checked in and dumped my stuff in my cabin, I had a wander around the ship, before settling into what I felt was the ship lifestyle, lots of reading of books, eating of food and drinking of beverages (not all alcohol!).
About 3 and a half hours after leaving Hammerfest we pulled into Oxford. I thought that it was a little quick to have got from the top of Norway to the Home Counties, especially as Oxford is so far up the Thames as to not be navigable to. It turned out that it was Øksfjord. A short stop, punctuated by some frantic Norwegian shouts as they closed up the hold before a waiting passenger could load their van on, a couple of minutes later, and with the van safely stowed on the car deck we pulled back out and continued on. The first part of the journey had at times been a little bumpy. I had already checked and found out that on leaving Hammerfest the boat has to travel in open waters for a while before it can go down into the fjords. With that now behind us we settled into the calm waters of the fjords and continued south, and then, about an hour later, what I had been waiting for happened, off the Starboard side of the ship the Aurora had come out to play. The lightshow was stunning, with green clouds swirling overhead (sadly the light wasn’t strong enough for my camera to pick up so I didn’t manage to get any photos). The show ended after about 30 minutes so freezing, but happy, I returned to my cabin to warm up and to continue the journey to somewhere I was certain I’d heard of before…
Skjervøy was where I had first encountered the Hurtigruten when I went on a coach and boat tour from Tromsø the previous summer. Given that I had already seen the port I wasn’t too upset to miss it as dinner was called shortly before we were due to dock. Doubly happy given how delicious the dinner (and the second helpings of dinner!) were. Leaving Skjervøy we travelled for another hour or so before crossing past the northbound Hurtigruten (in this instance the MS Trollfjord). I had popped out on deck to see this anyway and was amazed that at pretty much the same time there was an even more dramatic and spectacular display of the Northern Lights. This time it included reds, oranges and purples and really danced around the sky. There was even a band in the distance which for a while I thought was just the glow from a big city until I realised that the nearest cities that could create that kind of glow would have been London or Stockholm, and I was in the middle of Fjord hundreds of miles from the nearest big town.
When I had last been on the Hurtigruten (makes it sound like I use it on a near weekly basis!) I had disembarked at Tromsø to go back to my hotel. It had been gone midnight and it was during a period at which I was getting no sleep (and slowly going a bit nuts). However, the lure of my warm cabin and soft bed meant that I didn’t see Tromsø again, instead I went to bed about an hour before we were due to dock.
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The first notable attraction of the morning (after the plentiful breakfast of course) was entering the Risørenna, a 4KM channel dredged out of the fjord in the 1920’s to allow larger boats like the Hurtigruten to pass between the mainland and the islands, rather than having to go out into open sea. At the end of the channel, and marked with a spectacular arched bridge almost exactly the same as that in Tromsø was the next brief stop of the morning Risøyhamn.
After a spectacular three point turn, almost on the spot the ship continued south from Risøyhamn, stopping for about 30 minutes in the town of Sortland which appeared to be a large shopping centre and not much else, the only mention of it I could find in the guidebook was as a centre for changing busses when visiting the Lofoten islands, so I decided to stay on the nice warm ship, and await the next stop, a little over an hour later at Stokmarknes and the Hurtigruten Museum.
In the end it took a little longer to get to Stokmarknes, for no apparent reason. By the time we had tied up it was gone twenty past, which meant there was just over 45 minutes to have a look around the museum, and one of the former ships. I got back a couple of minutes before the horn sounded to let people know we were going, just one person had to pick up their pace on hearing the horn to make it back on board. We then pulled out into the darkness. Supposedly the next part of the cruise is one of the most spectacular, entering the Raftsund with the ship just squeezing down the channel between the mountains, and then up into the Trollfjord. Given that it was now pitch black there wasn’t much of the Raftsund to see, and the diversion via the Trollfjord didn’t take place.
The next stop of the evening was at Svolvær on the Lofoten Islands. This was one of the longer stops of the day and meant there was enough time to have a look around a bit of the town (or what of it you could see in the dark) and visit the Lofoten Krigsmuseum. After having had a look around these it was time to head back to the ship for dinner and the 90 minute sail to the final port of the evening.
The leg from Svolvær onto Stamsund was would could be described as “choppy”, out in the sea it was noticeable that there was quite a swell and the boat was pitching quite a bit. By the time the boat reached Stamsund a significant number of passengers were out on deck “taking the air” and many, including myself, decided that it might be quite nice to get off the boat for 10 minutes or so whilst it was docked up. Eventually the horn sounded and it was time to re-board the boat for the long leg across the sea from the bottom of the Lofoten islands to Bodø, which would require a three hour crossing back across the open sea before we got back into the sheltered water of the fjords, it was going to make it interesting to get to sleep, so as an aid I headed to the bar for a quick night cap before turning in.
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Whilst I was sleeping we had made the stop at Bodø, as well as another at Ørnes. By the time I got up at 8am we were well on our way to the next port of call, Nesna, but before we reached that, a about 9:15, we made an important transition. At 66° 32’ 35” North we crossed the arctic circle and left the polar regions behind us. This would be impressive, if it wasn’t for the fact it was at least the 12th time in 20 months that I had done it. I’ve crossed the Arctic circle now by foot, on bike, by taxi, by bus, on a plane and on a ship. In fact I have now crossed it more times than I have visited the British Museum. One of these is 7 miles from home, the other well over a thousand, that’ll be today’s modern global society!
A brief stop at Nesna and an opportunity to book for the following mornings sightseeing tour of Trondheim, which would allow me an opportunity to see more of the city than I would have done in the short time I had before I had to catch the train to the airport.
Sixty minutes later we were approaching the next stop of the morning, and one of the longest of the day at Sandnessjøen. I got off the boat and had a brief wander around the town, which really is just a small costal town. However the surrounding scenery is spectacular with the Seven Sisters mountain range dominating the area. The best views of this, according to the guidebooks at least, come from the southbound Hurtigruten, so it made sense to pick up a spot of lunch on land (at a fraction of the price that it would have been on board!) and then re-board the boat ready for the afternoons mountain spotting.
As we continued south, it became apparent that Sandnessjøen appeared to be some kind of cut off point. Whilst there had been the odd other boat about since Nesna we had passed a car ferry and a catamaran and south of Sandnessjøen the waters were positively teaming with trawlers, ferries and other small ships. Along the edge of the fjord the houses continued for several miles south of Sandnessjøen and it did really look like we were entering a much more populated part of Norway. A quick check on the map and it showed that Sandnessjøen was just slightly north of where the country starts to bulge outwards, so it sort of made sense.
Most of the mountains were obscured by mist and snow, so there really wasn’t that much to see, on the plus side it meant that there was a better excuse for sitting inside out of the brisk chilly wind that was blowing outside. Just gone four, and with it already having been dark for over an hour, we pulled into the penultimate stop of the day at Brønnøysund, for a short 45 minute stop. If Sandnessjøen was a small town then Brønnøysund appeared to be a sleepy village, there was hardly anyone about, even though it was still, technically, the middle of the afternoon. A quick look around an then back on the boat for dinner and the three and a half hour cruise to the final stop of the day Rørvik.
Rørvik arrived at the same time as a hefty snow shower, with driving winds decided to pass by, which made for an interesting time on deck as we watched the ship dock. There was a choice of museums to visit in the one hour that the ship was moored up for, I, along with the other four people who got off the ship to brave the elements went to Norveg. On the way back I was disconcerted to see the funnel of the ship moving, I picked up my pace a bit, more concerned as to how I had managed to spend an hour inside the museum and why my watch was telling me the boat wasn’t due to leave for 20 minutes. Thankfully, as I rounded the corner I saw that it was the Vesterålen mooring up on its Northbound trip. This was the sister ship to the one I had originally been booked on, the Lyngen. That ship had been sold and the following shuffle round of ships had left me on the Nordlys, I was quite glad once I had seen the Vesterålen as it was built at a time before the concept of the Hurtigruten cruise had been born, and looked quite like (and say this quietly) a converted whaling ship!
I got back onboard the Nordlys and went to warm up for a while, in my room, then turned the temperature down so that I could sleep and popped up to the bar for a quick drink, then back to bed for my final night at sea.
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I duly got up, showered, finished packing, checked with the person on ship reception that I was OK to get off and then get back on again for Breakfast and headed out into the crisp winters morning. I felt surprisingly sprightly, which was good as virtually the whole of today would be spent travelling, and a considerable lot more than I had planned. When I had originally booked I had about 45 minutes to spare in Bergen to change planes, tight, but with Norwegian reliability easily doable. Then the flight times had changed, the flight to Bergen had slowly got earlier and the flight from Bergen later, in the end I was looking forward to about two hours forty minutes of flying and three hours thirty minutes of sitting around in a small airport which I new didn’t have much in the way of facilities!
I followed the signs leading from the harbour front through a maze of streets heading towards the town centre, after about 5 minutes of walking I emerged at the back of the Nordkapp which was moored up behind the Nordlys, still I would know for the return leg. It was about a ten minute walk to the station where I quickly located the left luggage lockers and dropped off all my luggage and unnecessary stuff (like books and laptop) and once I had locked the door realising that I had left my hat and gloved in the locker. I couldn’t be bothered to pay another forty krone so I decided that as it had been quite mild on the walk down to the station it would remain that way. Thankfully I was proved right, but walking around town in just a jacket with no hat or gloves it became obvious quite quickly that I was being mistaken for a local as I was offered Credit cards and asked directions.
I walked back to the Hurtigruten by my improvised short cut route, which did envolve dodging a couple of fork lift trucks, but as other people were walking this way I felt that this was probably acceptable good practice. After my last breakfast aboard I disembarked again to join the morning sightseeing tour. The tour is run for passengers off of both boats, with the southbound passengers (of which I no longer was one) having to be rushed back at the end of the tour to make the 10am departure. As so 90 minutes after waking up and officially before the crack of dawn (but this is Norway in winter and dawn is a lazy thing not bothering to slide out of bed until the other side of ten.) we set off for a tour of Trondheim.
The first hour we went on a coach tour around the city centre and main sights, and then up to a view point over the city where there were some stunning views of the pre-dawn city. After taking in the views here and then a bit of a further drive we arrived, on the dot of nine at the Cathedral where we had a guided tour.
The Southbound passengers (and Northbound passengers who didn’t want to walk) were whisked back to the ship and I had a bit of a further wander around the city, now with the streetlights out and a warm winters sun in the sky (which as odd as all the thermometers dotted around the city insisted that it was –1).
An hours wandering later I found myself back at the station where I brought a ticket to the station next to the airport and picked up my luggage from the locker. I settled into the train for the half hour journey to the airport, which had the added treat of the penultimate stop…
Just to the south of the airport, is a small town. To the Norwegians the name is insignificant, but on a cold winters day, with snow lying thick on the ground, the photographic potential of a wintry scene in Hell is just too much to miss. I now have a photograph that I will print out and use the next time someone tells me that “that won’t happen until Hell freazes over” I can produce and say it already has! (I would like to repeat, for those who have not already picked it up from earlier comments and postings, I am not a nice man!)
Værnes station is located almost at the end of the runway of Trondheim airport (or to give it its full tame Trondheim Lufthaven Værnes), and it is obvious that soon this will be an important integrated station that links to the city centre. At present the train service is hourly, and you have to walk down a long corrugated iron tunnel to get to the terminal building! Having checked in I went through security and waited for my flight. It left on time, I had been hoping for a bit of a delay, so that I didn’t have so long to wait at Bergen. I was doubly disappointed when it landed five minutes early and proceeded to pull straight up to a gate and start off loading fast. Doubly dissapointed when I found out that the flight back out of Bergen was delayed by an hour.
So here I was, sat in the international departures lounge (occupying about the same space as a single gate room at Gatwick or Heathrow) draining the last remnants of the battery in my laptop, trying to avoid reading my book as I knew I only had enough of it left to last the flight. Looking up I saw a picture on the wall of the Trolfjord, and there in the middle, paying a visit during summer time was the Nordlys, clearly identifiable and a reminder that despite all the travelling I had been to some spectacular places.
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From the bus stop it was a good 20 minute walk to the hotel, but in the warmth of the early evening, and with the almost overpowering aroma of the orange blossoms on the trees the lined the street virtually the whole way there, it was a pleasant walk.
After checking in and dropping off my stuff I headed back out into town going for a long wander around the city centre, taking in the massive cathedral and it’s bell tower, originally the minaret of the mosque that was converted into the cathedral following the re-conquest of Spain, the Real Alcázar (the royal palace), the small lanes of the Barrio Santa Cruz and down to the riverside and the Torre del Oro (Golden Tower) and La Maestranza (The bull ring). By the time I had finished wandering around and taking pictures, it was gone 10:30, but I thought, this is Spain so dinner should just be starting.
Sadly, my knowledge of the timings of meals in Spain is more appropriate to the citizens of Madrid, and not of Seville. By 10:30 most of the restaurants were closing up for the evening as everyone had settled down for dinner before 9. I eventually managed to find a little bar near the hotel which was still serving tapas, and after a (possibly unhealthy) quantity of Chorizo I headed back to the hotel and to bed.
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After a very hearty breakfast (perhaps their Latin brothers in Italy could take some lessons!) I headed out into town to do some sightseeing. My options were limited by my old adversary, Monday! The only thing that was fully open would be the Cathedral and the bus and river tours, so I would have to occupy myself with these today, and then try and fit the whole of the rest of Seville into tomorrow.
I walked back through the old town to the riverside to pick up the open-top bus tour of the city. The tour runs around the outside of the city centre roughly tracing the lines of the old city walls, with a short diversion into the site of the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition and later on in the tour the 1992 World Expo site. Of the two, the 1929 buildings appear to have fared far better than their more than sixty-year younger counterparts at the Expo site have.
After doing one full circuit of the tour I got back off the bus back at the Torre del Oro and walked back to the cathedral. Having had another wander around the outside of the building in daylight to take in it’s sheer scale (it’s officially the worlds larges Cathedral by volume, but possibly only because St Peters in Rome and the Notre Dame in Paris are Basilicas not Cathedrals!), I wandered inside. The cathedral is a massive network of small courtyards, chapels, side rooms and passageways, so there is lots to explore. The inside of the main part of the Cathedral is spectacular with it’s massive cavernous interior and spectacular gold decoration everywhere. After having explored the cathedral it was time to climb the Giralda.
The Cathedral was built in the 15th century, following the re-conquest of Spain from the Moors, on the site of the former Mosque, with many of the details of the Mosque retained. It’s minaret was adapted and turned into the Giralda, the bell tower of the cathedral and from the viewing platform just below the bells, the best viewpoint in the city. The climb up is quite easy as the tower was designed for people to ascend on horses, so it’s ramps the whole way to the top, with just a short flight of stairs to take you out onto the viewing platform. From here the views over the city centre were spectacular.
Having taken in the views I descended back down to the cathedral floor and exited through the Patio of the Orange Trees, part of the original Mosque complex, a large square with ranks of orange trees laid out, all in full blossom and creating a glorious aroma.
I had a bit of a wander through the old town stopping for a good lunch in one of the little café’s for a spot of tapas before heading back down to the river side to go on a cruise down the river. Having done the cruise I decided that it probably hadn’t been worth it as it sails up the river for 15 minutes, turns round sails back past the Torre del Oro where it starts on for a further 15 minutes then turns round again and comes back with very little commentary, and not that much actually visible from the boat.
I got off the boat just in time to catch the sightseeing bus one stop round to the Plaza España, part of the Ibero-America exhibition site of 1929. The buildings of the exhibition are in the parkland of the Parque Maria Luisa and in the late afternoon it was very pleasant to spend some time wandering around the park, taking in all the buildings of the exhibition. By the time I had wandered around the park and back to the Plaza España the final sightseeing bus of the day was pulling up, so I decided to go around the route once more, sitting on the opposite side of the bus, to take in more of the sights.
I was back at the Torre del Oro just under 45 minutes later (the driver appeared to want to get home fast!) but it was still to early to go for dinner, so instead I wandered back to the hotel to drop most of my stuff off before heading back out a short while later for a very pleasant dinner in a little side street just up from the Cathedral.
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I took advantage of the audio guide and a seat to get most of the details of the buildings history and the museum without having to worry about the school kids getting in my way, and after most of them had dispersed had a wander around the building looking at the exhibits.
From the Torre del Oro it was a short walk up to the Royal Palace, the Real Alcázar, where once again there was a group (though a different one this time) of French school kids. Thankfully they were in the group queue so I sidled in through the individual visitors entrance and started looking around the palace. It is a simply spectacular building. Taking lots of its influences from the Moors it combines the beauty of Islamic architecture with the wealth of a nation that controlled most of the worlds gold for many years. If the building is spectacular then you start to run out of superlatives when you reach the gardens, which complement the palace perfectly.
After spending quite a lot of time looking around the palace and gardens I headed over to the Parque Maria Luisa for a late lunch and then, once they had opened into the two museums here. First stop was the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares de Sevilla or the museum of arts and traditions, Seville and after looking around that it was across the square to the Archaeological museum.
The Archaeological museum goes a long way to showing the important Roman history of the region. Just 9KM from modern day Seville is Itálica. This was once the third most important city in the Roman empire after Alexandria and Rome. It was the birth place of Emperors Hadrian and Trajan and was my next stop.
From outside the Archaeological museum I caught the bus up round to the bus station at Plaza de Armas and from there the regional bus out to the town of Santiponce. The bus continues all the way to the archaeological site at Itálica, but I got off in the centre of Santiponce so that I could have a wander around some of the other remains that are scattered through the town. The main one being the Theatre. Sadly access to the theatre was closed for the day, but you can still access a view point above it to look down on what are fairly substantial ruins. From there it was a short walk on to the main site.
As you enter the site at Itálica the first thing that you are met by should be the substantial remains of the Amphitheatre. Sadly, the main thing I was struck by was groups three and four of French school kids, I couldn’t work out where they were all coming from! After getting into the site the kids were heading for the Amphitheatre, so I headed for the remains of the houses, and had most of the site to myself. A signed walk takes you around most of the main areas of the site, though not that much has been excavated. After about an hours walking, in a very hot sun (Itálica is not recommended in the height of summer!) I had completed most of the site, and was starting to burn, so I was happy to have reached the cool shade of the Amphitheatre. Whilst it is not as impressive as the Colosseum in Rome, it is still a pretty spectacular piece of building work, especially given that it has withstood over 2000 years.
Having walked around the site, and the Amphitheatre I got back to the main entrance just as the gates were being locked, thankfully with no sign of any school kids. As I had over 20 minutes until the bus I had a wander back up towards the town centre. In the end I wish I hadn’t as by the time the bus arrived it had managed to locate one of the groups of school kids and was absolutely packed to capacity. I only just managed to get on and had a quite uncomfortable 25 minute journey back into Seville.
Having arrived back in the city centre I caught the bus round to the hotel to drop off my stuff (and apply a bit of after sun) before heading back out into town for my final dinner of the trip.
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I walked back through the lanes of the Barrio Santa Cruz towards the bus stop, and arrived the wrong side of the traffic lights as it left. Thankfully, I had given myself enough time that if I missed that bus, the next one would still get me to the airport with more time than I actually needed, so I brought a bottle of water and went and sat in the park near the bus stop for twenty minutes.
The journey to the airport, through the airport and onto the plane was a smooth as any other journey I have made and the flight was uneventful, until we reached the coast of France.
Whilst I had been sunning myself in southern Spain, The UK was being battered by the worst storms of the winter, and some of the worst weather in years. I had seen it on the TV news of an evening as I was getting ready to go out, but wasn’t really taking it in, except in a smug way. As the plane started its decent into Gatwick it was clear that the wind was still blowing quite strongly and so the next twenty minutes proved to be one of the bumpiest and least pleasant landings I have ever made.
By the time the plane touched down there were several people happily filling the sick bags, and there was no talking going on. There wasn’t any enthusiasm for a round of applause that one passenger tried to start up, everyone was nursing their churning stomachs. Whilst there was never any doubt about the safety, the plane was always in control, it was just so rough that everyone just wanted to get onto solid ground, not helped by the gusts of wind which were whipping around the apron at Gatwick and making the plane rock whilst it was on stand. I have never been so glad to get onto the air bridge just so that my stomach could calm down.
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With stoicism, I ventured further into the lounge and found it was as full as I had feared. Everyone was crowded into the departures lounge, there were no spare seats, babies were crying, it would be a horrendous wait. So I pulled out the credit card and went to the business lounge and begged. 5 minutes and £20.50 later I was relaxing in a comfortable seat, with a view of the runway, and a nice cup of coffee!
And there I sat, watching the snow slowly stop, the time for my flight come and go, the 09:15 finally depart just before 3 and then, just after half four, the announcement that all Aer Lingus flights had been cancelled, and we had to be "de-controlled". At the same time a host of easyJet, FlyBE and other airlines flights were being cancelled so it was chaos. Immigration couldn't deal with the number of people re-entering, and they hadn't told the security staff about the Aer Lingus flights, so all the passengers got sent back into the lounge, which was thankful, as 5 minutes later the flight was back on!
In the end it was another two hours waiting until a sudden and urgent call for all Aer Lingus passengers to get down to gate 6 and, even once we had boarded a further 40 minute wait to get all of the luggage loaded. Eventually, exactly 7 hours late, and into a fast setting sun, we pushed back and set off. For once, perhaps because of the delay, or maybe because of all the cancellations, it only took a couple of minutes from push back to take-off roll.
An eventless 50 minutes later the plane touched down at Dublin airport, and after a relatively quick passage through the airport, I found myself on the 2115 airbus into town.
Thankfully, the hotel was only a very short walk from the bus stop, so by 2145 I had already checked in and was on my way back out for a quick evening stroll around the city centre.
I had a quick wander around the temple bar and trinity college areas before wandering up to St Stephens green and then on round to St Patrick's and Christchurch's Cathedrals, before wandering back to the hotel. I was quite surprised when I got back to the hotel and realised that it was just before midnight.
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All the previous times I have been to Dublin it has been during the summer, when the city centre is not at its busiest. Consequently I had not experienced the traffic jam that is O'Connell street in a Monday morning rush-hour. The bus jam rivalled even Oxford Street at its worst! I negotiated the jams, not a particularly difficult feat to achieve on foot, and got myself to the pick-up point at the main Tourist Information Centre early.
The tour started by journeying North from the city centre out towards the valley of the river Boyne, and our first stop of the morning, the Newgrange visitors centre.
After a quick look around the visitors centre and a short Multi-media presentation on the history of the site, it was time to catch the shuttle bus out to the site. The visitors centre is about 10 minutes drive from the site, and you can only get tickets from the visitors centre, consequently the site is very peaceful. We had a tour of the site including going inside the mound and a demonstration of what happens with the sunlight at dawn on the winters solstice.
Having looked around we caught the bus back to the visitors centre, and just in time, a few seconds after getting back inside the skies opened and a spectacular hail shower ensued. A quick lunch in the visitors centre and then it was back onto the bus for the second stop of the day Monasterboice
With the tour of the site completed, again just in time to avoid the next massive shower, it was back onto the bus and back to Dublin. On arrival I had a wander around the castle area for a while, before heading back to the hotel to drop stuff off and then back out for dinner.
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A long drive South out of Dublin and into County Wicklow, first stop at about 11.30 was high in the Wicklow mountains at the Wicklow gap. From there it was a short drive down into Glendalough for a stop to look at the ruins of the monastic settlement.
From there it was back on the bus and on to Avoca to the hand-weaving mill for a brief tour, and then a late lunch, plus the opportunity to visit the gift shop. Back on the bus again to start the return journey back into Dublin.
We arrived back into Dublin at a little after 1630, so I had more than enough time to walk down to the Liffey to catch the 1700 river tour, unfortunately nature had conspired against me. The tide was very low, and there was insufficient water in the river for the tour to run, instead I wandered back to my hotel, dropped my stuff off and the headed back out, catching the tram out to Heuston station and then wandering up into Phoenix park.
I had a long wander through the park and left just as the sun was setting. I caught the tram back into the centre and then walked up to the castle to join the ghost walk.
If nature had conspired against me earlier with the river cruise, it was rapidly clear that it was becoming a vendetta. The threats of snow during the evening had put all bar one other person off, so the guide decided that this wasn't enough for the tour to take place and cancelled.
I walked back through Temple Bar, grabbing a late bite to eat, and then headed back to my hotel.
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The town is about 9KM north of Dublin and home to Malahide castle. When the last member of the Talbot family finally vacated it in the 1970’s they brought to an end the longest continuous residence of a house by the same family in Ireland (ignoring the short period when they were dispossessed by Oliver Cromwell!) Today the house is owned by the city of Dublin and is open to look around, albeit on an audio tour.
After looking around the castle I headed back to the station to catch the train back to Dublin. The first one was cancelled, so in the end I had a pleasant 40 minute wait sitting on a bench in the warm sun (only remembering when I got on the train that the only times I have really got sun-burnt were both in Dublin!)
By the time the train got back into Connolly I had missed the midday river cruise, and there wasn’t one at one so instead I headed over to Dublin castle to go on a tour of that. The first tour was fully booked, but I was able to get on one about 30 minutes later so quickly grabbed a sandwich before taking the tour around the “Symbol of English oppression of the Irish for over 700 years”. It was from here that Ireland was run, firstly as a separate country and then, following the act of union, as part of the United Kingdom, up until the creation of the Irish Free State in 1921.
Following the tour I wandered down to the river to catch the river cruise only to find that nature was continuing her vendetta and had managed to get the hat-trick. After yesterdays lack of water today it was very quickly obvious that there was a bit too much. With less than two foot clearance between the river and the bridges the tours had been suspended. Instead I wandered along the edge of the river heading down stream, past O’Connell street and down towards the Customs House.
This area of Dublin – the Docklands – is rapidly being developed into the modern business heart of the city. Gleaming office blocks and sleek shopping centres a testament to the phenomenal economic growth of Ireland over the previous 20 years. Just across the road from one of the larger shopping complexes is something that brings you right back down to ground with a jolt.
The Irish Famine Monument is a stark reminder of the suffering that Ireland has been through. The statues of emaciated and dying people desperate for food is very moving. You forget whilst you are looking at it that you are in a modern busy city, with one of the busiest roads just feet behind you. You are taken back to a time when people like this would have huddled around here hoping to get on a ship out of the country. A figure at the back has the body of a child draped over his emaciated skeleton.
Leaving the monument I walked through the docklands area and found myself approaching Busáras just as the skies started to open. I dashed inside and looked at my watch. I could, if I wanted to, spend another hour in the centre of Dublin before I would have to catch the bus out to the airport, but given what the weather was doing, I thought it was probably best to admit defeat at this point, pick up my luggage and catch the airbus back to the airport. 45 minutes later the driver finally cleared the traffic in O’Connell street and joined another traffic jam on the airport road, 35 minutes after that a bus full of very frantic people, concerned they were about to miss their flights, and one smug git who didn’t have to rush as they had left an hour early, arrived at the terminal building. It was quite fun to watch people trying to fight their way off the bus, I decided to just stay in my seat until the end and then calmly stepped off the bus and walked to checkin.
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A swift pint later it was time to wander down to the gate and onto the plane. A totally uneventful flight later we touched down in Verona, swiftly progressed through the airport and found ourselves, by way of the airport bus, at the central railway station in Verona. A short walk later and we arrived at the hotel.
With the formalities done, and with most peoples stomachs rumbling, we headed around the corner from the hotel and ate in a small restaurant just off the main square. From there it was a gentle meander down the main streets of the town taking in the sights, before stopping off for a late evening drink in a little bar by the river. Time appeared to flow at a completely different rate and very soon it was 1am and time we really should be turning in for the night.
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Next stop of the morning was church number one the Chiesa di Santa Anastasia, from there it was a short walk to the Duomo for church two, and then on through the town centre to the Porta Borsari, one of the original gates of the city, for a spot of lunch.
Appetites sated, for a while, we walked the short distance down the road away from the gate to the Castelvecchio and it’s museum. We had a long look around the castle taking in the views from its ramparts and towers, and the museums housed inside it’s buildings.
After leaving the castle we cross over the river on the fortified Ponte di Castlevecchio and walked along the opposite bank of the river to the next bridge and church number three of the day the Basilica di Santa Zeno.
After that church it was a short wander around the corner to a bar for a late afternoon drink, and then a walk back along the riverside to the hotel to freshen up before going back out for early evening drinks, dinner and then late evening drinks!
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From the Arena we wandered through the town, up past the Chiesa di Santa Anastasia and across the river towards the Roman Theatre and archaeological museum. By the time we arrived at the site it was just after midday, so an ideal time to stop at the next door restaurant to have a quick Sunday lunch. Of course this being Italy, we had to have a full Sunday lunch and two hours later we all staggered with distended, but contented, stomachs from the restaurant towards the theatre.
We had a look around the theatre, and the archaeological museum which is in its grounds, and then climbed the hill to the Castle San Pietro above it to take in the views across the river of the city centre. From here Verona looks beautiful with the compact city centre, church spires and terracotta roofs laid out in front and bordered by the river.
After taking in the views we descended back down the hill, and across the river to a small bar on the opposite bank, and took in the views of the Roman Theatre and Castle San Pietro over a cold spritz.
Popping back briefly to the hotel to freshen up, we met up again a short while later to take part in the now routine dinner ritual of drinks, dinner, drinks (some managing to put away another large dinner, despite the enormous lunch!).
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After a wander back to the hotel to collect our bags we walked back down to the station and joined the queue for the bus to the middle of nowhere international (or VERONA (Brescia) as Ryanair like to call it.)
With all the grace that befits a Ryanair flight there was a bit of a scrum for the coach, and then over an hour later when we arrived at the airport (which is nowhere near Verona, and quite frankly nowhere near Brescia either!) a scrum for people trying to retrieve their bags so that they could check in fast.
By the time we checked in we were up into the 120s for boarding, so we didn’t partake in the crush for the gate mentality that takes over low-cost passengers. Sitting in the departures lounge we were able to watch everyone stand up and rush towards the gate as the plane landed, obviously all failing to spot the issue that it still had to park up, empty its incoming consignment of tourists, and give the plane a bit of a tidy before they would be allowed to board, and 20 minutes later they were all still standing there, whilst our little group were sitting comfortably in an almost deserted departures lounge.
In the end we had a battle of wills with another small group to see who would chicken out first and go to the gate before they were called. In the end we won and for the first time ever I was the last person to clear the gate, with the door being quite purposefully slammed behind me! And consequently had to play hunt the single seat that is left (between an Italian couple who insisted on having the Window and Aisle seat and a steaming row for the length of the flight)
Back at Stansted, and the fastest I have ever been through the airport, we decided to swap allegiances and caught the bright orange easyBus back into the centre of London.
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A couple of uneventful hours later the plane landed at Dubrovnik airport and I got my first stamp in my new passport (all the more impressive given that I have had this passport for over three years!) Through the airport fast and onto the shuttle bus into the city.
Being lazy I grabbed a cab in the city centre for the short journey up the hill to the hotel. After checking in changing into shorts, and applying a healthy slathering of sun block, I headed back down the hill into the heart of the medieval old town.
I had a long wander through the ancient streets of the walled old town, stopping to visit the Rectors Palace museum and then pausing for a late afternoon drink in the sun in a bar opposite. After my refreshment break, I continued to have a wander around the old town and the harbour.
By the time I next looked at my watch it was rapidly approaching 8PM and time for some dinner, which I had in a small restaurant in a side street off of the main street in the old town.
With a very nice dinner inside me I had a little bit more of a wander, stopping for a very nice ice-cream, before finally finding myself at the bus stop for the bus back up the hill to the hotel, and the welcoming thought of a comfy bed.
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I spent quite a long time wandering along the walls and by the time I had come back down it was as near as makes no difference, lunch, so I stopped for a bite to eat at a small cafe just outside the city walls. After lunch I meandered through the city down to the harbour to pick up one of the many tour boats that leave regularly on tours of the city walls and neighbouring Lokrum Island.
After the tour I leapt on another boat for the journey down the coast to the small town of Cavtat. The town was the original site of what became Dubrovnik, but was abandoned following a major earthquake. Today it is a pleasant medieval town, laid out in a crescent around the bay. I only had a little time to look around before it was back on the boat and back to Dubrovnik.
On arrival I was treated to the bizarre sight of a band contest in front of the clock-tower. I watched this for a while, before heading back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back into town for dinner.
With another massive and very tasty dinner inside me I went on a short wander around the city in the dark before finally heading back to the hotel.
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Time for a quick, dirty and not particularly politically correct history of the 20th century in the Balkans. A Serb started World War I by assassinating the Austro-Hungarian Emperor whilst on a trip to Bosnia (which was part of the empire at the time). The Croats fought on the side of the Nazi's against the Russian allied Serbs during W.W.II. Yugoslavia, originally formed after the first world war as a kingdom to bring the small Balkan states together in harmony, after the Second World War became a communist state under the leadership of General Josip Broz Tito (a Croat). Under General Tito's relatively liberal brand of communism this worked and turned Yugoslavia into an attractive holiday destination for the capitalist pigs, sorry Western tourists. Then Tito died in 1980 and, after a few years of the country struggling by, ethnic tensions and rabid nationalism took over and Yugoslavia started to disintegrate with first Slovenia and then Croatia declaring independence in 1991. The Croats claim that the Serbs were trying to subsume all the former Yugoslav nations into a greater Serbia, and certainly from a westerners view at the time the Serbs, and in particular their president Slobodan Milosevic, were painted as the aggressor on all fronts (though there were several incidents where Serbian civilians were the victims of atrocities carried out by the other sides in the wars)
The longest war of independence was also the bloodiest, and lead to the most atrocities being committed, took place in Bosnia. Therefore, it is slightly surprising that just 9 years after the war officially ended, Bosnia is today being touted as a tourist destination, and one of its principal destinations is Mostar, once a byword for the ethnic tensions. The town’s historic old bridge was destroyed by the Croat army so that the town could be divided by the river between a Croat bank and a Muslim bank. Today, following peace and reconciliation, and a hefty restoration job the town is again united, at least by a bridge.
Mostar was my second stop of the morning. But to get there we had to drive along the coast, cross into Bosnia, then back out of Bosnia and back into Croatia (a small part of coastal strip was ceded to Bosnia in 1945 so that they had access to the sea) before finally crossing back into Bosnia about 45 minutes later, and a short while after that stop one at the town of Pocitelj.
The small fortified hill town demonstrates what is unique about Bosnia in the region, virtually next door to each other are the tower of the catholic church and the minaret of the mosque. Out-doing both of them is the stunning ruins of the hill fortifications. After a brief wander around the town, and a stop to take in some of the local craft shops, it was back onto the bus and on to Mostar.
Evidence of the war, which raged here until 1999, is still clearly visible, many of the buildings have shrapnel scars and damage, and more are still ruined from the war, burnt out uninhabitable shells, which had been family homes or businesses.
Bosnia is not a wealthy nation, with little in the way of industry. The valley that Mostar lies at the top off is fertile and provides for the nation and some exports, but the majority of the countries income comes from tourism, and this is an industry that Mostar has mastered. The main sites of the town are all located in the small old town, and to reach any of them, from any direction, requires walking past a large number of gift shops.
Our guide walked us through the old town and pointed out the main sights, before leaving us for a couple of free hours sightseeing at the old mosque.
Having looked around the mosque, the remainder of the old town, one of the museums, and seen the wonder that is the restored bridge (I heard one person comment that they had been to Mostar in the 1980's and they couldn't tell the difference between the bridge then and now, if its destruction had not been broadcast across the globe they wouldn't have believed that it had been destroyed and rebuilt.) I stopped for a very nice lunch of local delicacies in a little Bosnian family run restaurant just down from the bridge.
After that it was time to get back on the bus for the long drive back to Dubrovnik. By the time we arrived back in town it was just time for a light dinner, before heading back to the hotel and bed.
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After completing the tour I wandered through the town to the harbour to catch the boat out to the small island of Lokrum. Firstly a monastic settlement, then the playground of the Hapsburgs, then a Napoleonic fort, today it is a haven for nature (and in one small corner naturists!) and uninhabited, to the point that you have to be off the island on the last boat, nobody stays overnight.
I had a long wander around the whole of the island, taking in the ruins of the monastery (and the very nice restaurant that is now in its grounds), the cliffs and lakes of the island (which appear to be suffering from a peacock infestation, I have never seen so many in one place!) and walking up (and I do mean up!) to the Napoleonic fortress.
I finished my wanderings about 10 minutes before the ferry was due so I had a short wait by the small landing stage, and gently topped up the sun-burn! The ferry got me back into town and I wandered over to the airport shuttle bus companies office to check the times of the busses for the following day, before heading back into the old town to take in more of the sights.
I had the guide book with me and it suggested two possible walking routes which I could merge easily into one as I had already done a circuit of the city walls. The first part of the walk was up the narrow, stepped lanes towards the Ethnographic museum, which turned out to be shut by the time I got there, and the bolt on the door implied that it wasn't just for a late lunch (even though the sign claimed they were open 09-16 daily!)
I then took in the cathedral and some of the other churches in the city centre, including having a look around the Franciscan church, monastery and cloisters, which included a small museum.
With a serious case of museum feet I stopped for a refreshment break on the main street, before catching the bus back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out for dinner.
Instead of heading straight into town, I quickly caught the bus in the opposite direction to the end of the peninsula to take some photos of the sunset over the islands. Whilst I was able to take some photos it was obvious that the weather was on the turn, and after dinner, walking back to the bus stop I was certain I could feel the odd spot of rain.
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The first thing that became obvious was a need to reassess my timings to get to the airport. The roads were almost grid-locked and the busses heaving.
I had a short wander around the old town, taking in the last of the churches that I had missed yesterday, as well as the memorial room to the Dubrovnik defenders, which commemorates all those (from the Croat side) who died defending and liberating the city.
After that it was time to get back to the hotel, collect my luggage, check out and get a cab to the bus station to pick-up the airbus.
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Sadly, Devon public transport is not the speediest, and even this short journey took over two hours.
I walked down through the centre of Plymouth from the station to my hotel, checked in and then had a short wander up onto the Hoe to have a quick look at Plymouth sound and the sights up there.
I wandered back down from the Hoe and, after grabbing a bite to eat, headed for bed.
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My main destination was Totnes, which I eventually reached just before 11:30, thanks to the marvellous services of Cross Country trains (it should only have taken 25 minutes, but the train was over 30 minutes late, and then got later on route!). From Totnes station I walked the short distance to the towns other station. Built at the point where a former branch line diverged from the main line into London, it is now the southern terminus of the South Devon Railway, a steam preservation line which runs for 7 or so miles up the Dart valley to Buckfastleigh.
On reaching Buckfastleigh I had a look around the small museum and workshop exhibition at the station, before catching the bus on to the abbey at Buckfast for a look around that.
The abbey was opened in 1932 on the site of a former abbey dissolved by Henry VIII. Today, the abbey, and the area around it are sometimes referred to as Fastbuckleigh based on their ability to cash in on the tourist pound. After looking around the abbey, and the gift shop, I caught the bus back to the station in time to catch the train back to Totnes.
From the station I caught the river ferry down the Dart to the town centre and then had a wander through the historic old town. At the top of the hill, overlooking the surrounding town is Totnes castle. The castle is a fine example of a Norman Mott and bailey castle. All that remains are the stone walls of the upper castle, and parts of the outer curtain wall, but from the top of the mound the views over the countryside are stunning.
I wandered back through the town to the station, conscious of the time it had taken me to get to Totnes, that in the early evening it might take as long. In the end I needn’t have worried. A train was pulling in as I approached the station and 25 minutes later I was back in Plymouth.
I had another wander around the city centre, taking in the Sutton Harbour and Barbican, the original parts of the city. With not much happening in Plymouth on a Monday evening out of peak time (the Uni students have all finished, but the schools are yet to break up, so it’s the perfect time for a quiet visit) I grabbed a bite to eat in the Pizza Express next to the hotel, and caught a film in the cinema opposite, before turning in for the night.
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My first tourist stop of the day was a Smeatons tower. 14 miles off the coast of Plymouth are the Eddystone rocks. These are some of the most dangerous rocks around the British Isles and have, over the years, claimed a huge toll in vessels and lives. Towards the end of the 17th Century a lighthouse was erected on the rocks. Sadly, the lighthouse was washed away during a storm. So a second lighthouse was built. This one had to be replaced after the lantern caught light and burnt down. A third tower was built by Smeaton. This proved to be more study and lasted for over 100 years, before it became clear that, whilst the lighthouse was fine, the rock it was standing on was being undermined by the sea. A new lighthouse was built, but Smeatons was dismantled and brought back to land, and rebuilt, piece by piece, on the Hoe. Today you can climb the tower and see what life in a lighthouse might have been like (cramped) and take in the views over Plymouth from the lantern room and balcony.
Having looked around the tower I walked down to the sea front and joined one of the many tour boats which go out into the sound and then up the Taymar past the Navel Dockyard at Devonport. After the tour I headed back towards the Barbican for a spot of lunch, before wandering round to the Citadel for the afternoon tour.
The Royal Citadel was built between 1666 and 1670, partly as defence from the sea, but also to send a message to the strongly parliamentarian town of Plymouth that the Royals were now back in charge. The story goes that there are more guns trained on the town of Plymouth than out onto the sound, whilst it’s not actually true, there are a substantial number of points from which the town could be fired on.
The Citadel has been in use by the army since it’s opening, and today it still is. The outer walls are maintained by English Heritage, and twice a week, as part of the deal there are guided tours of the citadel and chapel.
From the Citadel I walked back down to the Barbican and visited my last attraction of the trip, the Plymouth Gin distillery. Having sampled some of their produce it was time to totter back to the bus station, pick up my luggage, head back to the station and start the long journey back home.
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As so it was that I awoke at 5:30 to the sound of the first departure of the morning roaring past the window of the Ibis hotel Luton Airport. After the bleary-eyed stumble through the shower I checked my bag (for about the 40th time), checked out of the hotel and walked the short distance up the hill to the airport.
One very smooth checkin, uneventful flight (save for the choir of screaming babies on board), transfer to the hotel and chekin and luggage drop later I found myself in the centre of Gdansk having a wander around the streets.
The entire city was levelled during World War II so it is amazing to see a virtually intact 18th century city with countless churches and riverside buildings. From the ruins of the war every building was reconstructed from it’s rubble and its all credit to the people of Gdansk that they have rebuilt such a beautiful city.
I stopped for a quick late lunch and then boarded a ferry for the short journey down the river towards where it joins the Baltic at Westerplatte. This small spit of land has the unique distinction of being the very last part of Poland to fall to the Nazi’s, holding out for nearly two months, and also the very last part of Poland to be liberated. It is also the location were, at dawn, on September 1st 1939 the warship Schleswig-Holstein launched an attack, signalling the start of the invasion of Poland, and with it the start of World War II. The whole site was destroyed during the course of the war, and, unlike Gdansk itself, has not been rebuilt. Instead the ruins of the bombed out buildings are still where they were when the guns finally fell silent in May 1945. Nature is slowly taking back the site, but, if anything, this makes the ruins look all the more eerie.
The site is well worth a visit, though it has to be said, not during a massive thunderstorm that started just as I arrived. The rain was of such ferocity that it was obvious that it could only continue like that for a few moments, but just when you thought that it managed to find even more fury and increase the pounding. With lightning bolts cracking around me (at one point the flash of lightning and sound of thunder were simultaneous) I decided that hiding under a tree was a bad idea and instead ran to a nearby bar to shelter under its awning, but just this short run I got soaked through, and my bag was saturated (to the extent that my guidebook was unusable for several hours before it dried out)
Eventually, the rain petered out into a light drizzle, which was good enough for looking around the site. After having had an explore I caught the bus back to the centre of town and stopped off at the 24 hour post office to get some stamps for postcards before grabbing a bite to eat.
After dinner I had another wander through the old town up to the historic dockyards. In my mind I had expected a much wider approach, perhaps a grand boulevard leading to the internationally famous gates of the Gdansk shipyards. Instead, the gates that feature in almost as many stories of the fall of communism as the scenes of the Berlin Wall being breached, are down a small residential street. Looking at them I could vividly remember the news stories from the late 1980’s when the world watched as the Solidarity movement in Poland finally forced the collapse of the communist government. Just looking at the gates I could visualise in my mind the moustached face of Lech Walesa being carried on the shoulders of his colleagues through the gates and on to become the first democratically elected president of Poland.
Just to the side of the shipyard gates is a reminder that the struggle was not without loss. Whilst the campaign of the 1980’s lead to the fall of communism, similar action in the 1970’s lead to the deaths of over 40 striking shipyard workers when the army went in to break up the strike and Marshall law was imposed. Today, three high crosses tower over the site, and plaques on the walls remind visitors of the sacrifice that those strikers made.
With the sun rapidly setting, and the light drizzle slowly increasing, I decided it was time to head back to the hotel and try to catch up on some sleep.
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I caught the bus into town and headed for the Old Town making a tour of the main street (Long street). I stated at the old gate to the city which includes the Prison Tower and Torture Tower, though now home to the amber museum, then stopped off at the Uphagen’s house before taking in the City museum in the town hall.
Having climbed to the top of the tower of the town hall and descended back down to ground level I though there would be nothing more sensible then climbing to the top of the tower of the largest church in Gdansk, St Mary’s! 400 odd steps late I emerged onto the very rickety viewing platform, wedged between the two sloping halves of the roof, took in the views and then descended back down again before I developed vertigo!
A brief pause for a late lunch overlooking the river was followed by an afternoon taking in the museums and sites of the impressive sounding “Central Maritime Museum”. This included the crane. If Paris has the Eiffel Tower, and Rome the Coliseum, then Gdansk has the Crane. It’s on every postcard, in every tourist book and appears on every map. Having looked around the museums on this side of the rive I caught the ferry to the other side to take in the main part of the CMM as well as the museum ship MS Soldek.
By now it was starting to get late, and my legs and feet were killing me, but it wasn’t quite late enough for dinner. I thought about doing some more wandering, but when I started to feel a bit of pain in my leg I decided it was probably best to go back to the hotel, change into something less clammy than my Jeans, which in the temperatures were starting to feel too hot, and put my feet up for a short while before heading back out for dinner.
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After visiting the Artus Court and the Archaeological museum there was just time for a quick spot of lunch before my afternoon trip on the Tram Ferry across the Gulf of Gdansk.
Helping to form the gulf is a small thin spit of land that juts some 20Km out into the Baltic. At the very end is the town that gives the Peninsular it’s name… Hel.
At this point it would be an occasion to line up a string of jokes about going to Hell etc (which I have quite happily done on the Blog). But Hel is quite capable of living up to it’s name.
The shape of the land makes it easy to defend and consequently it was the last part of Poland to hold out against the advancing Nazi’s, not falling until October 3rd 1939, over a month after the war had started just on the other side of the Gulf at Westerplatte. Conversely at the end of the war, with confusion in the ranks, and pinned down by Soviet forces, Hel was not liberated until May 9th 1945, two days after the complete surrender of Nazi Germany.
Today, Hel is a peaceful and tranquil place (if you ignore the thousands of people lying on the beaches bronzing themselves, and the seafront arcades). A family resort it has a number of attractions including a fishing boat museum with a tower you can climb for views over the gulf and a aquarium housing a number of the, now sadly becoming rare, Baltic grey seals.
After having exhausted most of the sites of the town I wandered back to the train station. As all tickets are sold as singles (returns are effectively double the singe price) it is easy to make the tip to Hel into a circular one, coming out on the ferry, but back by the train.
The train runs the length of the peninsular, never very far from the coast so you always have good views. On leaving the peninsular it heads in land so that it can make a more leisurely 180 degree turn before heading back down the coast towards Gdynia, Sopot and Gdansk.
By the time I arrived back in Gdansk it was gone 8 so I headed down to the riverside for some dinner. After a pleasant meal I walked back through the city centre, with the light going and the floodlights on I was able to take several decent pictures of the city before heading back to the hotel and a good nights sleep.
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The journey only took a little over 30 minutes, with the most stunning part left to last. As the train crosses the river into Malbork you are given a stunning view of the castle, the reason for visiting.
Malbork castle is the largest in Poland, and one of the most impressive I have ever seen. There are three castles within the castle complex, set amongst concentric rings of defensive walls. This place was built with one thing in mind, to keep people out.
It was built by the Teutonic Knights after they had come to Poland to “Christianise” the local populace, and at one point became the capital of their empire (after having relocated from Venice.)
Much of the castle was destroyed during the Second World War, virtually the whole of the lower castle disappeared to the point where there is nothing left to restore. The middle castle, which was home to the Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights and the guest quarters has been virtually all restored, although frescos have only been repainted in areas where they are certain what they originally looked like. Finally the upper castle, which was the monastery has been virtually all restored except for the chapel, which is at least another 20 years away from completion according to the tour guide.
The tour through the castle, and you have to go on a tour to be able to look around!, takes about three hours, and covers the whole of the middle and upper castles. At the end of the tour there is the opportunity to climb the main tower of the high castle for stunning views over the site, and the surrounding countryside.
By the time I had descended back down from the tower it was gone 5pm and time to head back to the station (where the train was late again, but only by 5 minutes), and catch the train back to Gdansk, then after a quick pause at the hotel for a freshen up, it was back out for my final dinner in Gdansk.
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Located near the station are the headquarters of possibly the most famous Polish organisation - Solidarity. In the basement of their building is an exhibition called “Roads to Freedom” which charts the history of opposition to the communist regime in Poland and it’s eventual downfall.
The museum has lost of information, exhibits and photos and in the end I had to rush round the final parts to make sure that I made it back to the station in time.
After collecting my bags and wandering over to the platform I was delighted to find that Polish railways were continuing their high level of efficiency. At a little after 13:15 the 12:49 to Katowice pulled in (according to the indicator boards it was only running 20 minutes late!) and then, after much shouting between passengers, finally pulled out at 13:25, exactly the same time my train was due to depart.
Under Polish rules, as explained by a local, a train isn’t late until it is over 15 minutes late – an idea I think they have taken (or perhaps it is the other way around) from British trains. Consequently I boarded my “On Time” train and it happily departed 14 ½ minutes on time.
I settled down for the five hour journey to Warsaw with a good book…
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Along with the general delayedness of the train, the other thing that had become increasingly noticeable was the humidity. As we had travelled inland further from the Baltic the temperature in the carriage had risen, and everyone was slowly looking more uncomfortable.
Just as I exited the station at Warsaw the solution to the humidity presented itself, with a massive flash of lighting and a torrential downpour. Thankfully, unlike at Westerplatte a couple of days earlier, I was already under shelter when the heavens opened so was able to watch other people getting a soaking.
The rain lasted for about five minutes and then subsided to the occasional drip, so I thought it was a good time to make the short walk from the central station to the metro stop about half a kilometre away. However, as I walked I did notice that the rain didn’t appear to have cleared the humidity. As I approached the metro station the small spits of rain become big gobs of rain and I quickened my pace, diving into a shelter just seconds before an even more spectacular downpour took place.
After the rain had subsided it took another five minutes or so for the lakes that had been formed to drain away to the point where you could walk rather than wade to the station. I brought my ticket, and made my way to my Hotel.
With the checkin formalities completed, I dumped my stuff and headed back out into the strange light that you get when there is thunder around. Thankfully, the last of the storm had passed, and it was noticeably fresher and more pleasant. I caught the trams round to the Old Town and once there climbed up the Belfry of St Anne’s Tower to take in some of the sights.
I descended back down just as the clock was striking half nine and wandered over to a restaurant for a late dinner.
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After the Royal Castle I had a wander round the old town and took in St Johns Cathedral, the old city walls, Little Insurgent Monument, Monument to the Warsaw uprising and the Barbican before stopping for some lunch.
With lunch settling I hopped onto the Warsaw Old Town Mini-Train for it’s short tour around the old and new towns. I then walked down from the old town to the trams towards the city centre and popped down to the Palace of culture and science.
The Palace was given as a gift of friendship to the people of Poland from their Overlords, sorry neighbours, in the USSR. It is a truly impressive pile. Whether you like the building or not (and most people don’t), you can’t help but be impressed by the sheer size and scale of the thing. You also can’t help but be impressed by the views from the gallery from the 30th floor.
From the palace I caught the tram out to the site of the Jewish Ghetto. Originally this was the heart of Warsaw’s massive Jewish community, and then in 1940 the Nazis forced all of the Jews in the city into the Ghetto and walled them in. Today markers around the edge of the ghetto show where those walls were. The site has several monuments in particular to the people who were taken from here to the death camps, and to those who were involved in the Ghetto uprising in 1943.
The monuments are located in quiet streets and parks, it’s hard to imagine on a sunny quiet Saturday how horrific the conditions, and the terror and fear were. Having looked around the Ghetto I returned to the hotel to drop off my bags before heading out for dinner.
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The first stop of the morning was Pawiak Prison Museum and from there it was onto a couple of trams round to the Museum of the Warsaw Uprising. The uprising started on 1st August 1944. I visited on 27th July, just a couple of days before the 64th anniversary and the museum was having an open week with opening hours extended through until midnight and free entry. The place was absolutely heaving, and thankfully, it was with locals, bringing their children to see what had happened in their city, to make sure they don’t allow the horrors of the war aren’t forgotten.
From the museum I caught a tram back into the old town for a lengthy lunch (followed by another pit stop) and then caught the tram back out to the south to the Botanical gardens.
After spending a long time in the Botanical Gardens I caught the bus back up into the old town and went for dinner. I started to have a wander through the old town, only to find that I needed another pit stop, but to my horror all the public toilets (or at least the two I tried) were closed. Thankfully, at the point I found the second toilet closed I saw the bus back to the hotel pulling up on the other side of the road, so I dashed over and 10 minutes later was in more comfort.
I waited for about an hour to make sure that my stomach had settled and then headed back into the old town to take some final photos before heading back to the hotel and my packing.
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So instead of being able to hop on a tram down to the station, instead I had to wander all the way back to the metro station, where there was a kiosk, buy a single and get on the metro down to the centre of town, and then walk to Centraliny station.
I had, of course, left myself far to much time and arrived at the station with 40 minutes before the scheduled departure of the train.
Remarkably, the train proceeded to turn up and depart on time (well it had only come out of the depot) and so I was on my way to Poznan
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Then, about 5KM (as it turned out) outside of Poznan the train ground to a halt and then crawled virtually the whole way into Poznan Glowney, in the end it arrived 20 minutes late. I quickly popped into the tourist information centre in the station to buy a Poznan card before getting on the tram to the hotel.
After checking in and dropping off my stuff I headed back out and into the Old Town to have a quick look around. Obviously, this being a Monday, virtually everything was closed, with the exception of one exhibition the Makieta Dawnego Poznania which I visited.
From there I caught the tram out to the island of Ostrów Tumski to have a quick look around the island and the Cathedral. As it was late the whole area was deserted, but this also meant that only part of the Cathedral was open, so I would have to go back to have a fuller look.
I had a wander around the rest of the island and then headed back into town for a spot of dinner.
After a brief pause at the hotel I headed back out after sunset to take some more images of Ostrów Tumski.
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First stop of the morning was the Old Town Hall itself with its museum followed by the museum of the local army which was right behind it. At this point the plan fell to pieces. The museum of the Poznan uprising (which took place after the end of WWI and effectively ensured that Poznan was part of the recreted Polish state, not part of Eastern Germany) was closed for reorganisation. I popped round the square to find that the Archaeological museum was just closed (no reason given, but it was 45 minutes after their advertised opening time and the door was locked!) and the museum of musical instruments was closed until further notice for renovation.
Instead, I headed back out of town to Ostrów Tumski to revisit the cathedral in the daytime, and I’m glad that I did. Not only is the cathedral more impressive when the sun is shining right through the stained glass, but you can also visit the crypt of the church which houses some of the ruins of the original cathedral that stood on the site.
From there it was a short walk to the banks of the man-made lake Malta and running alongside it is the Lake Malta Mini-Railway. I had a quick ride on this up to the Zoo, and then caught the bus back into town. I then walked over to the Wilson Park and the Palmhouse that is located there.
Supposidly it is the largest greenhouse in Europe (I would like to suggest it is the largest greenhouse in continental Europe as I am convinced that the Main house at Kew in London is bigger!). I had a long wander around that and then went into the gardens where there is a surviving bunker from WWII that you can visit, only it was shut.
By now I had pretty much given up on Poznan, so much of it was closed that I couldn’t be bothered to try anywhere else, so I headed back into town and had a very late lunch (it was about 4) and then headed back to the hotel for a quick rest, and to check the state of my bank balance, before heading back out for dinner.
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I exchanged my remaining Zlotys for some Euros and went to wait for my train. It was apparently good timing. As I decended the steps into the underpass all the lights went out. There appeared to have been a total powercut to all the electrics of the station, with the exception of the clocks and the tannoy.
In semi-darkness I climbed up the steps onto the platform, only to discover that this was the same platform that was accessable from the forecourt of the station, I had just hauled my heavy bag up and down the steps for no reason!
The powercut appeared to last for some considerable time, it still hadn’t cleared by the time my train finally dparted nearly an hour later (officially on-time according to the indicator board, stuck on it’s setting for the 10:41 to Berlin, late according to my ticket which stated it was the 10:20!)
The train lost a bit of time on route, and at just before 12:45, 20 minutes behind schedule, we crossed the Oder River from Poland into Germany.
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Firstly the train picked up speed, and with it eventually gained back five of the lost minutes so that we were only a quarter of an hour late into Berlin. Secondly, the cloud bubbled up and we crossed from a Sunny Poland into a considerably greyer Germany.
I managed to make a quick change at Gesundbruunen station and 10 minutes after stepping off the train from Poznan I was arriving at the doors of my hotel for the night. If my stay in Poznan for the previous two evenings had been in dull luxury, tonight was going to be cheerful budgetness. I was staying in the Generator Hotel (as it was called by the booking agent) or to give it it’s correct name, the Generator Hostel.
However, despite the slightly tower-blockish appearance (being as it was a converted tower-block!), the reception staff were very friendly, and my room (a single en-suite, rather than a shared facilities dorm!) was small but very comfortable. I unloaded my stuff and then headed into the centre of the city.
I had a wander around the area of the new Hauptbahnhof which opened a couple of months after my last visit. When I was last in Berlin the whole area was a massive building site, right up to the Reichstag and the Brandenburg gate. Today it is park-land, riverside café’s and even a beach. It’s amazing how much it had changed in such a short period of time, and that’s not including the stunning structure that is the Main Station with it’s curving arched roof and cavernous interior (the trains go overhead at bridge height East-West through the city and in a fairly deep tunnel North-South.
I walked through the grounds of the Reichstag, past the Brandenburg Gate and on to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This is a gigantic sculpture on the ground level, with a museum underneath. The sculpture is 2000+ concrete blocks of varying heights laid out in columns and rows and underneath is a very moving museum telling some of the stories of those who suffered during the persecution of the Jews from 1933 to 1945.
After looking around the sculpture and museum I headed back to the Reichstag to go up the dome. In 2004 I had done it on a February evening, when it was difficult to see very much. In 2006 I had attempted to do it on my final day, but the queue had gotten the better of me. Today I was determined to visit so I joined the queue and was happily informed that current queuing time was 45 minutes. 20 minutes later I was inside the Reichstag!
With the skies starting to clear into a warm early evening glow, the views were spectacular, down the length of the Tiergarten and in the opposite direction down Unter den Linden to Alexanderplatz. Having taken my fill of the views I wandered down to the bus stop and caught the bus round to the Zoo to have a quick bite to eat, before heading back to the hotel to drop stuff off and then head back out again to take some night-time photos of the monuments.
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I caught the tram to Alexanderplatz and dropped my luggage before walking down to the river by the Cathedral. I only had two hours to fill, but, thankfully, timing was on my side. As I arrived one of the many tourist boats that ply the Spree was about to depart so I was able to go on an hours cruise along the river, taking in the main sights.
It arrived back at its mooring point, which was next to my other destination for the day the DDR Museum. After having had a look around “Life in the East” it was time to head back to the station, pick up my luggage and head off for the Airport and my next Destination Zurich and onto Luzern.
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The plane was about 10 minutes late leaving because of problems being caused across Europe to air-traffic control by the Lufthansa strike which was going on (and which saw long queues of people at the Lufthansa ticket desk and a very full flight for me!) In the end we made it all up and landed at Zurich 10 minutes early.
A quick flight through the airport was brought to a shuddering halt when I got to the baggage hall to discover that there would be a 25 minute wait for the bags (the little screens said so, and to within a minute or so they were right!) Having collected my luggage and made it through customs unmolested (the last time I landed at Zurich I got pulled over) I quickly headed for the train station, purchased my Half Price card (99 SFr and halves the cost of all your transport in Switzerland for the month!) and a ticket to Luzern and was surprised to find myself on a train that I seriously thought I would not make.
A little over an hour later, and on-time to the second, the train glided into Luzern station. I wandered through town to the hotel, checked in and dropped of my stuff and then went for a long wander through town, before heading back for a good nights sleep and an early morning.
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Secondly, I didn’t quite see what the conversion was, other than the ability to open the cell door from the inside as well as the outside. The bed looked authentic and wasn’t particularly comfortable, neither was the wafer thin pillow. And in an attempt to make more money they had resorted to UK style prison overcrowding, turning what had been a single person cell into a twin-room with a second bed making an exceptionally narrow corridor between the two, and on several occasions I managed to bang my shins into it, on one occasion taking off several layers of skin on the sharp metal corner.
Consequently, I wasn’t particularly refreshed when I got up, and the shambolic breakfast with not enough table space, no knives and no glasses didn’t help my feelings towards the proprietors.
I very quickly checked out, and made my way over to the railway station to catch the train to Interlaken. This route forms either the first or final (depending on which way you are heading) of the Golden Express Panorama route from Montreaux. A route that I would be completing on Sunday. As the name of the route implies it takes in some incredible views. I had paid the extra to travel first class, and I’m glad I did. The train was bursting at the seams in standard, in First there were only a few people, and consequently I was able to occupy seats on both sides of the carriage taking photos out of both sides of the train, and I took quite a few photos.
The crowning glory of this part of the journey is the steep climb up to and then through the Brünig Pass. It’s so steep that the train has to become a cog-wheel railway to get up, rising almost to the top of the tree-line from the valley floor. Then, once over the top, you get the stunning view of the Meiringen to Brienz valley floor, with the river Aare running in an almost straight line, before plunging back down to meet that valley at Meiringen.
Whilst the journey from Meiringen to Interlaken is one that I had done several times the previous summer, it is still quite impressive with the mountain walls on either side of a virtually flat river valley, before opening out into the Brienzersee.
Two hours after leaving Luzern, and bang on time, the train pulled into Interlaken, and stop 6 on my itinerary.
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My first target for the day was Schynige Platte, overlooking the Brienzersee and Interlaken at 1967m. The journey up on the cog-wheel railway is quite slow, taking nearly 50 minutes to complete the assent to the railway station, from which it is a further 20 minutes walk to the very top of the peak and the viewing platform.
In the Alps this is more than enough time for the weather to intervene and turn an OK day into a miserably wet one.
By the time we reached the station it was raining, heavily and with the gusty wind this turned into unpleasant sheets of rain, aided by the cooler temperatures at this height, it wasn’t a nice place to be. So instead of having a wander I got back on the next train down. On arrival at Interlaken I discovered that the rain was following, and was now pouring down in the town. I waited it out for about 45 minutes before it finally started to ease down to a light drizzle, at which point I grabbed my luggage and made a dash for the hotel, getting to just a couple of meters from the door before it picked back up again.
I checked in, and then sheltered in the hotel whilst this band of rain cleared back down and then headed out again, this time to go up to the much closer Harder Kulm, located on the opposite side of the river to Interlaken, it is much lower, and was clearly visible when I was at the bottom. But again, on my way up on the funicular railway the weather closed in and at the station, five minute walk from the peak, the rain was lashing, so I got back on and descended back to Interlaken.
I had to wait 20 minutes at the funicular station for the weather to clear and then wandered, despondently back to the hotel, feeling quite sorry for the Swiss whose national day was quite clearly a wash-out.
Then, about 8pm a strange thing happened. The cloud all evaporated. I know you can get some funny weather phenomenon in mountain areas, but this was really bizarre. In the space of 10 minutes it went from a wall of heavy grey clouds surrounding the town, so that you could only see the very closest mountain wall disappearing into the murk, into a stunning vista of snow-capped mountain peaks, green hillsides, and rock bathed in the warm glow of an Alpine evening sunset.
The festivities for the national day also picked up at this point, so I headed out from the hotel to watch some, and found myself, a little later, standing on the edge of a large field in the city centre, with a half litre of beer, and a bratwurst watching a spectacular fireworks show, aided by the local populace who were also setting their own fireworks off.
Contented, and more importantly dry, but probably stinking of the smoke from fireworks, I headed back to the hotel for some sleep.
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My first call of the morning was Schilthorn. It’s billed as the rival to Jungfraujoch (which is the highest station in Europe) as being the place to get the stunning views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau that you don’t get from Jungfraujoch as you are too close.
The journey up had several legs, firstly the train to Lauterbrunnen, then a cable car to Grütschalp, then the train along a ridge with stunning views down into the Lauterbrunnen valley, to Mürren. From the station in Mürren it was a pleasant, and flat, 15-minute walk through the town to the cable car station and on up to Brig, there it’s another change onto the final cable car up to Schilthorn.
At several moments on the way up I feared that the cloud would spoil it, as we kept passing into large banks. But, by the time we emerged at Schilthorn, we were well above the clouds and I had a simply amazing view across the valleys to the three peaks. I took in the views for a while, both from the terrace, and from the revolving restaurant where I stopped for an early lunch. I had a quick look around the rest of the station at Schilthorn, which is mostly made up of memorabilia and exhibitions about its use as the set for the 007 film “On Her Majesties Secret Service”. I then retraced my steps back down to Mürren, briefly diverting to go up the Allmendhubelbahn to Allmendhubel to take in the views from there, and then on down to Lauterbrunnen.
From Lauterbrunnen I hopped on the train up to Wengen, to catch the cable car up to Männlichen. Männlichen forms part of the series of peaks that separate the valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. When I got to the top the cloud was starting to descend and at times there were short periods of whiteout, but you could still make out the views of the Lauterbrunnen valley (and the bizarre site of Wengen station looking as though it was next door to Lauterbrunnen. They are almost at the same location, just a couple of thousand feet apart in altitude. From Männlichen you can also see across the Mürren and on the opposite side down to my next destination, Grindelwald.
The aerial gondola between Männlichen and Grindelwald (or to be more precise, Grund which is the bit of Grindelwald properly in the valley) is the longest in Europe, and it is certainly spectacular. The journey took the best part of 35 minutes with stunning views all the way down.
From Grund I caught the train up the hill to Grindelwald, and then took a diversion to go back up to First as I had done the previous year. Once again the views are spectacular, but I also knew there was a nice restaurant up there and sitting on the sun terrace with a cold beer, looking across to the Glaciers and peaks of the alps is certainly a pleasant way to end an afternoon.
It was back onto the cable car to Grindelwald and then onto the train back to Interlaken and a chance to rest my feet!
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After dropping my bags off at West station I had a short wander around the town centre, and then took the funicular railway up from behind West station to Heimwehfluh.
From up here, on a sunny day, the views were spectacular. Laid out before you is the town centre, with the Aare River running between the Brienzersee and the Thunersee. In some of the photos I took it almost looked like it was a model rather than a real place.
I spent quite a bit of time taking in the views, and then decided to stop for a drink. Time passed quite quickly and I soon realised that I should be starting to make a move back down to the city.
As it was such a nice morning I walked back down into town rather than taking the funicular, the walk only took about 30 minutes, and by the time I got back to West station it was time to collect my luggage to make my train.
The Golden Pass Panorama route runs from Luzern to Montreux, but in reality is three separate railways. There is the section from Luzern to Interlaken, which I had already taken to get to Interlaken. The next two stages I would do today.
The middle section runs from Interlaken to the town of Zweisimmen which is a very pretty ride, if not particularly noteworthy. At Zweisimmen you change onto the final train to Montreux. This is supposed to be the extra special leg. The train is formed slightly differently. Instead of there being an engine at the front and then carriages behind there are a couple of carriages, then the engine then some more carriages. People sitting at the front and back of the train get the same view the driver would normally have, and I had booked a seat at the very front.
Unfortunately “Ce train est défectueux” the air conditioning in the front carriage had broken down and it had never left Montreux that morning. So instead I had to make do with a refund, and a seat at the back, taking in the view from the rear, which is still something special.
The ride is spectacular winding through the mountain, climbing up steep gradients and in places doubling back on itself. In particular the final descent into Montreux station is very steep and twisty, it would probably have been even more interesting from the front than it was from the rear!
At Montreux I made a quick change and boarded a normal Swiss train for the ride back along the edge of Lake Geneva to my final stop of the trip, Geneva.
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The city was still in party mode from the National Day on Friday, with a massive fun-fair and stalls laid out on both sides of the lake.
After a long wander round, and a quick bit to eat from one of the stalls I headed back to the hotel and bed.
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Consequently my alarm went off at 7:30 and I quickly showered, packed and wolfed down a breakfast. I was out of the hotel by 8:20 and straight onto a bus to the airport.
Of course, all my planning had failed to take into account the efficiency and speed of the Swiss public transport system and I found myself standing at the quayside a little before 9am with a ticket in my hand and an hour to kill.
I had a wander around the city centre and then back to the quay in time to catch the paddle steamer up the lake. The journey takes just under 4 hours, but the views are well worth the slightly numb bum that I had at the end (I’d paid a little extra to go in first class, and I’m glad I did as second looked very cramped and uncomfortable. First wasn’t great, but there were cushions on the seats and an at seat food and drinks service)
The ferry stops at many of the towns along the lake, including making a couple of stops in France, before eventually arriving into Lausanne. I had originally planned to take the Metro up to the city centre, and then walk to the cathedral; unfortunately the Metro was closed for major refurbishment and extension so I had to get the replacement bus.
From where the bus dropped me off it was a ten-minute walk up to the cathedral, which is visible from most of the city. I had a look around inside as well as climbing the tower for the views over the city and the lake, but by now the cloud was really starting to roll in and it was difficult to see more than a couple of miles in each direction.
By the time I had descended back down to the nave of the cathedral it was time to head back to the station to catch the train to Geneva. I wandered back through the town to the station and waited for the next train to Geneva airport for my luggage and my journey home.
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A couple of days ago the air traffic control computers, which monitor all the traffic in and out of the London airports, crashed, effectively shutting all the main airports down for a couple of hours, and the delays and cancellations had continued up until today. So, despite a blue sky, and the Gatwick website reporting no delayed flights, I set off, not particularly convinced that I was actually going to get to Italy.
The first thing that struck me, after the painless check in and wander through a virtually deserted security check, was how much quieter the airport is when it’s actually functioning properly. There were still seats available and people weren’t camping out on the escalators.
In the end, my flight was delayed, but only by about 20 minutes, and then the strangest thing happened. After pushing back the plane proceeded to taxi towards the runway, then onto the runway and took straight off, without at any point coming to a halt. A very rare occurrence for Gatwick!
Two uneventful (apart from some turbulence) hours later the plane touched down at Venice airport and 30 minutes after that I found myself sitting on the bus heading in to the city.
Sadly, this being Italy and not Germany or Switzerland, the bus just missed the Vaporetto down the Grand Canal, so I had a 20 minute wait, or so I thought. Then I realised that the next ferry, a couple of minutes later, was an “express” which only stopped at a couple of the stops down the grand canal. There was a possibility that if I caught that it might just overtake the Number 1 I had missed. So I boarded and started my journey down the Grand Canal.
Sure enough, at the stop just before Rialto (where my Vaporetto terminated) we overtook the missed number 1, so I was able to make a quick change, and get to the hotel 20 minutes earlier.
After checking in, I headed back out and caught a Vaporetto down to St Marks Square to have a look around and take a few pictures (and indulge in a small ice-cream, well it is Italy!) before catching the Vaporetto back to Rialto and have a quick wander around there (also making a more important stop at a cash machine!).
Having taken a few photos I decided, as I had just missed the Night-Vaporetto, and the next one wasn’t for another 30 minutes, to walk back to the hotel. At a couple of points I thought I may have got myself lost, in the little back lanes, crossing far more canals that I could remember counting there being between Rialto and my hotel. Eventually, after about 15 minutes walking I came out of a little alleyway and into S Toma’ square. As the Vaporetto stop for my hotel was called S. Toma’ I deduced that I was probably very near the hotel, sure enough as I looked down another alleyway I saw the hotels sign.
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I had been warned that the queues for some of the key attractions in Venice, The Cathedral, its bell tower and the Doga’s palace could be very long. As the Cathedral was closed for some reason (what a church thinks it was doing being closed to tourist on a Sunday Morning, what does it think it is, a religious establishment?), I was expecting the queues for the other main attractions to be even longer.
In the end the queue for the Bell Tower was only about 10 minutes long. Having taken in the views from the top of the bell tower I headed over to the Doga’s palace, and once again the queue was only about 10 minutes long.
Having looked around the palace I was going to quickly hop on a Vaporetto over to the neighbouring island of San Giorgio Maggiore, however, as I managed to get a particularly good seat at the very front of the boat, in the sun, I decided to stay on and use the Vaporetto as a sightseeing tour, which is what I think the majority of my fellow passengers were doing. The boat goes on a route round the back of the main island, up through the cruise ship docks and round under the bridge linking Venice to the main island before coming back down the length of the Grand Canal to the Vaporetto stop just before St Mark’s square. From there it was a short hop on another Vaporetto back to where I had started from just over an hour before and a return to my original plan and over to San Giorgio Maggiore.
When I got there I found that the church was still closed for a two hour lunch (lucky I had gone on that sightseeing diversion as I would otherwise have had a very long wait!) I popped to a nearby café for a late lunch before heading back to the church just as it reopened. The main reason for visiting was to go up the church’s bell tower. From here the views are as stunning as they are from St Marks, with the added benefit of getting the full view of St Marks square with the Cathedral and Bell tower together (a sight that is impossible when you are standing within St Mark’s bell tower!)
Having taken in the views I hopped back on the ferry over to St Marks square and then went for a ride on the ferry through the Northern part of the Lagoon (and in the process awaking some childhood memories of family holidays to the region – see the blog!) round to Burano and then onto the cathedral at Torcello.
Having taken in Torcello, and an hours stop and wander through Burano I caught the Vaparetto back towards the centre of Venice, stopping briefly to have a look at the lighthouse at Murano before arriving back at Fondamente Nova. From here I had a wander through the alleyways and canal paths of the city until, without really intending to, landing up by the restaurants just down from St Marks Square, and from where I had caught the ferry some five hours earlier.
As it was now starting to get quite late I stopped for a good dinner, before finally catching the Vaporetto back to the hotel and a good nights rest.
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Having looked around the Cathedral and the Loggia I headed across the square to the Museo Correr. This, along with the Archaeological museum are included in the ticket to the Doge’s palace. The reasoning being that as people have paid for them they might visit them (though most people appear to think of it as a sneaky way of making you pay more for the Doge’s palace than it’s actually worth as nobody would visit the other museums anyway). Based on the number of people looking around the museum I have a tendancy to believe in the extra charge theory!
With the museums done, I headed off to get a spot of lunch. I thought it might be quite nice to pop across the Lagoon to the Lido to get some lunch. Unfortunately there were only little kiosk around the Vaporetto stop, and having walked a few minutes in each direction past the stop I couldn’t find anything that I really wanted, so I caught the next Vaporetto back to the Arsenal and had a bite to eat near the restaurant I had eaten in the previous evening.
After finishing lunch I caught a Vaporetto across to the Santa Maria della Salute to have a look around. From there it was a short walk to the Traghetti stop. These are stripped down Gondolas that offer the experience of having travelled on one without having to pay the horrendous price tag. They server the purpose of crossing the Grand Canal at many locations, which is useful given that there are only a handful of bridges over its entire length! Having crossed I had a long wander down the alleyways of the city, meandering in no particular way, stumbling across a couple of nice churches (which were all closed) and a church that had been turned into a temporary exhibition on violins before finding myself crossing the Grand Canal on one of the few bridges by the Academia.
From there it was a short walk down to the canal side looking over the southern islands, where I stopped for a late afternoon drink, before catching one of the circular ferries out and round to Murano and back.
By the time I got back into the city centre the sun was setting and it was time to grab a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel for some rest.
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From there I had a wander through the alleyways towards the station, stopping off to pop into San Rocco church on the way. At the station, I caught the Vaporetto across the lagoon to Murano to visit the museums and churches on the island there.
After a quick visit to the churches, and a longer wander around the glass museum, and a very pleasant lunch by the main canal, I caught the boat back across to the main island to take in some more of the cities churches.
Having looked around the churches I found myself having wandered down to the gardens at the eastern end of the main island. After a short while looking around I headed back up to the Arsenal, which you can’t go into as it is still in active military service, but the are perfectly happy for you to take photos of! By the Arsenal was a very nice little café and I stopped there for a late afternoon pause, before starting to head back to St Marks Square. On the way it became clear that the good weather of the last few days was coming to an end, and as I approached the Vaporetto stop the rain started to come down quite hard.
I had thought about having another wander along the canals, and maybe a spot of souvenir shopping, but with the weather closing in I decided the easiest, and driest thing to do would be to pop back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and head off to the airport.
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Fast forward just seven months and it was a very different scene that greeted me as I came through security. Whilst the weather was still lousy (heavy rain and strong winds this time rather than a light dusting of snow), the state of the departures lounge could not have been more different. The departures screens showed all the flights for the rest of the day as being on time, all 20 of them, and that was in the mid-afternoon. There were a couple of people wandering around, a few people in the café’s and restaurants, and the usual queue in WHSmith’s (it is an ancient charter, or something similar, that where there is a WHSmith’s in a transport location, be it bus, train or plane, there must always be a queue).
You could have filmed a creepy film in there it was that un-naturally quiet. Thankfully, to restore my faith in Gatwick airport my flight promptly got delayed, though to be fair it wasn’t Gatwick’s fault, and with the plane having to divert to Liverpool on it’s way in because of a sick passenger you can’t really put any blame on FlyBE either.
So an hour later than originally planned, and still shocked by the quietness of the airport, I boarded my flight which promptly pushed back, accelerated along the taxiway and was pretty much up to take-off sped as it ploughed straight onto the runway and up into the leaden and blowy skies of Southern England.
75 minutes later, and for the first time in many years struggling to keep my lunch down because of the turbulence throughout the flight, we touched down at Belfast city airport and parked up. With a swift trip through the airport and two busses later I found myself at my hotel, wondering as I looked at the St Patricks Day cards, the Irish Dancing statues and the pictures of Mary, whether I was in predominantly Catholic or Protestant part of Belfast.
After unpacking I headed back into town and on my way confirmed that it must be a protestant area as Sinn Fein would only have offices in Unionist areas (for those of you who haven’t spotted yet the word of the day is irony or possibly sarcasm).
I had a wander around the city centre taking in the sites around the city hall and the rejuvenated riverside before wandering back to the bus stop and the bus back to the hotel.
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Having been picked up in the centre of Belfast we headed north along the coast road. Stopping briefly in Carrickfergus to have a look around the outside of the castle, before continuing north.
We carried along the stunning coastline (ignoring the not particularly pleasant port town of Larne) up to Carnlough where we had a brief comfort stop, from there we continued along the coast as it turned from being North South to East West and the waters changed from the Irish Sea to the North Atlantic, through the towns of Cushendall, Glenariff and Cushendun. Just beyond Ballycastle we pulled into the car park for the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Sadly, the bridge had closed for the season the previous weekend, but as our driver noted, this was the first time in many weeks that we had such a stunning view, as it was the first time it hadn’t been raining or misty.
In front of us was Rathlin Island, and clearly visible behind it were the brooding hills of the Mull of Kintyre on Scotland. The views from here were spectacular and having taken our fill of the views (and the strong icy winds!) we clambered back onto the coach and onto our main destination of the day.
Formed millions of years through the slow cooling of lava, the Basalt columns of the Giants Causeway are instantly recognisable, and one of the natural wonders of the world. The Causeway is totally open to the public, and the National Trust which run the site are perfectly happy for people to clamber all over the columns (Basalt being one of the hardest rocks on the planet it would take some serious work to actually cause damage to the site!) and on a windy day with large waves crashing over the end of the causeway it makes for a truly breathtaking activity (and body-temperature-taking!)
After a good 90 minutes or so around the Causeway I wandered back up to the visitors centre to get a bite to eat before we all had to head back to the coach to start the journey back to Belfast.
On the way back we stopped off in the town of Bushmills, home to the oldest licensed distillery in Ireland (visitors centre had closed the previous weekend… I’m sensing a pattern developing!) to have a look around the distillery shop. From there it was a brief photo stop at Dunluce Castle and at the beach in Portballintrae before heading back down the motorway to Belfast.
Still slightly chilled from the time out at the Causeway and exhausted from all the clambering over ancient monument, I grabbed a quick bite in the city centre before heading back to the hotel.
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I wandered up the road to the open-top bus tour stop and got on the next tour going to have a tour of the city.
The wind had died down a lot from the previous day, and consequently most people were sitting up top in the open, but I managed to get a good seat to take the odd photo or two.
The tour went round the city centre then out to the new “Titanic Quarter”, what was previously the shipyards. The tour passes the very slipway on which the ill-fated Titanic was built before heading out of the city centre and into the leafier suburbs.
The tour bus then stops briefly outside a fine Palace building, built in acres of parkland. Given the importance of this building and some of the recent history of the North of Ireland it is amazing that they allow tour busses this close to the Stormont parliament buildings, but they do. The building which has figured so much in the peace talks, the building in which the Good Friday Agreement was signed, bringing an end to the violence, and now home to the Northern Ireland Assembly.
From Stormont the tour headed back into town, past the city airport and out into the areas which had featured all too often in the new bulletins of the 70’s 80’s and early 90’s. Today the murals of the Shankill and Falls road are tourist attraction, but in the past they marked (and to an extent still today hide) the divided communities of Belfast. The predominantly Loyalist Shankill road with it’s murals to the Queen and the Unionist groups. The predominantly Falls road with it’s murals to Bobby Sands and Irish republican groups. Even today the road that runs between the two is closed off over night, perhaps one day this won’t be necessary, but according to the tour guide it still is today.
By the time the tour arrived back in the city centre there was only a little bit of time left before I had to head back to the airport so I went for a quick ride on the Belfast Wheel, at which point the wind decided to really get up and it wasn’t the most pleasant sensation sitting in a little capsule 60m up being quite violently rocked backwards and forwards by the wind, though the view, when I could focus on them, were stunning.
After getting back onto terra-firma I had a brief wander around the centre of the city. Sadly, after being pretty flattened in the war, and then torn apart by 30 years of violence the city has only recently been rejuvenated as a temple to the main form of worship, the shop. Wandering around the pedestrianised city centre it was difficult to tell (apart for the accents) that you weren’t in any other city in the UK, apart from the odd genuine Irish pub, and a couple of Irish chain stores, I could have been in London, Manchester, Cardiff or Glasgow.
Hopefully, as the regeneration of the city continues it can bring out a unique character, but as I got on the bus out to the airport I realised that it isn’t there yet.
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A couple of minutes early they announced the boarding of my train, and as usual with Eurostar, everyone rushed to the gates, despite everyone having a pre-confirmed seat. Given that, without noticing, I was standing right next to the access ramp to my train I was one of the first on, and it became obvious quite quickly why everyone was rushing. The train was going to be full, in fact it was getting so full that the train manager was making regular pleas for people to stop putting anything other than massive luggage in the luggage racks and if it could fit into the luggage shelf above your seat you had to put it there. They were getting very jumpy about bags being left in the vestibules, and to some extent you could understand why. Just a couple of months previously there had been another big fire in the channel tunnel. Once again, nobody had died, but the damage had been massive, but there were concerns about people escaping from full trains.
The fire had also meant that my train was going to take longer and stop less often. Rather than a stop in Ashford, and another one in Lille, today it was fast to Brussels. Albeit that it took nearly double the time to go through the tunnel at what can’t have been much over 30 miles an hour. It felt more like a tube train than the greatest revolution in British rail travel!
Arriving in Brussels at the height of the evening rush hour, on a Friday, the last Friday before Christmas, was always going to be a little fraught. Last year when I did it I had only to get across the city to my hotel. Today I was heading back out of Brussels and into Flanders. I wandered up to the platform for my train, which arrived five minutes later bursting at the seams.
It was quite clear that a large contingent of my Eurostar were doing exactly the same as me, going to Bruges, and as most of them were British. My suspicions were confirmed when, en mass, and without actually saying anything, agreed that compared to a British evening train this service was empty and could easily take a couple of hundred more people and luggage.
In the end I had to stand all the way to Ghent were about half the train got off, and then had a set for the final 30 minutes to Bruges. From the station I wandered over to my hotel, checked in and then headed out for a wander around the city at night.
When I had come to Bruges in 2004 it had been on a day trip from Brussels, and at the height of the tourist season so the city was heaving and it was difficult to see anything. In late December the city, whilst still busy, isn’t as impossibly packed, and at night is possibly more beautiful that it is during the day.
Having had a long wander around, and a short stop in the Christmas market for a splash of hot wine and a braatwort (Flemish Bratwurst), I headed back to the hotel for some sleep.
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Heading out from the hotel I followed one of two suggested walks that the hotel gives to all their guests. The walk goes around some of the most historic parts of the city, taking in all the key sites and passing many of the city’s museums.
First stop, after just a couple of hundred yards was the Halve Mann brewery, and not one to turn down the chance of a brewery tour I went in, an hour (and a half-pint) later I continued on the walk round through some of the alms houses of the city and along more of the canal sides.
By the time I finally finished wandering and emerged at the Cathedral it was gone 1pm, by which time the cathedral itself had closed for lunch, so I wandered a bit further down to the Markt. When I got there I was just in time for the bus tour. I had attempted to take the bus tour when I was last in Bruges, but on that occasion the police had started to close off all the roads ready for a road race, and consequently they had to cancel the tour half way round (though they didn’t charge anyone!)
This time the tour did run it’s full and interesting course, and helped to fill in some of the blanks in my mental map of the city of how things linked together.
From the bus tour I had another wander around the city centre, this time heading away East from the Markt and Burg. After wandering for the best part of another hour I found myself back at the Belfort in the Markt, just before it was due to close, and being a tower-junkie, I had to climb it. With the dying twilight on the horizon and the twinkling lights of the Christmas illuminations the city looked even more spectacular than I remember it doing so.
I descended the tower in increasing darkness and headed back towards the hotel, popping into the Church of Our Lady to have a look around on the way.
After a brief relaxation stop I headed back out into the city to look for some (cheap) dinner and to take in more of the city by night.
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By the time I got back into the city centre it was already gone one, and as I wasn’t feeling particularly hungry I thought it would be a good time to visit some museums.
The first museum I visited was the Choco-Story, followed by the Friet museum, by the end of which I was still not feeling hungry (but not so certain that chips on top of chocolate is a great combination).
I wandered a bit more around the city centre as the sun finally broke through the clouds that had pressed down on the city since I had arrived, sadly, it was almost at exactly the same time that it was setting, so it didn’t last for that long.
Having exhausted the Christmas markets in Bruges over the previous couple of evenings, I hopped on a train the short distance to Oostende to take in the markets there. Now, its possible that I missed the main market, as supposedly Oostende has quite a good Christmas market, but the one I looked round wasn’t particularly good, or particularly large.
I had a bit of a wander around Oostende before heading back to the train and back to Bruges. After a brief pit stop in the hotel I popped out for a bite to eat and then back to the hotel to start packing.
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The Kusttram (costal tram) runs virtually the whole length of the Belgium coast, from Knokke in the north on the border with the Netherlands, down to De Panne in the South, almost on the border with France and a town which has played a largely unknown, but vital, role in two world wars. Having purchased my Day card for the princely sum of €5 I boarded the first tram and headed north up the coast towards Knokke.
My plan was a simple one, and for part of it worked very well. I would catch the tram all the way up to Knokke taking in the views, and making a note of places I wanted to get off at and have a longer look, then once I had made my way back to Oostende I would repeat the process going all the way South to De Panne and then stopping off on the way back. It was a cunning and well thought-out plan that only had two major flaws. One being that I had to be in Brussels for my Eurostar no later than 8pm, and the other, that even as far west as the Belgium coast, it still gets dark just before five!
The first part of the journey went very well, with a comfortable trip up the coast to Knokke, and after a brief stop to make use of the facilities at the station and a quick look around the area around the station (not much to see, but by here you are a good 2KM from the coast and most of the town is up the road on the sea), I caught the next tram back a few stops to Heist.
At Heist I got off the tram and walked the short distance to the beach. Towards the North it was just possible to make out the coast of the Netherlands and the sand dune disappearing off into the distance. To the south the view was pretty much obliterated by the port in the next town on the coast, the port town of Bruges, but more famous to most people for the disaster that happened just outside the harbour on a cold March night in 1987, with it’s bow doors left open and running at full speed to make up a delay the Townsend Thorensen ferry the Herald of Free enterprise was overwhelmed by sea water and capsized a little outside the harbour. Since then the town of Zeebrugge has been linked in the mind with this tragedy, with the rise of Eurostar the port now handles very little in the way of passenger traffic, but still a significant amount of freight if the containers stacked up everywhere is anything to go by, but it is clear in the area around the port that the lack of passenger traffic has had an effect with lots of empty buildings and vacant lots.
Slightly further down the coast, and after a long interrupted run of dunes the beauty is suddenly brought to another grinding halt by Wenduine. A long strip of high-rise developments look out across the beach. From the beach looking along the coast towards Zeebrugge there are the beautiful dunes, directly in front of you is the cold grey, but beauty of the North Sea, to the left, it’s best not to comment.
Having taken in the sites of Wenduine I got back on the tram and headed back towards Oostende, and then on out to De Panne, and this is where the plan start to o a little wrong. As Oostende is in the middle of the coast, I had assumed that the journey from Oostend North which took not more than an hour would be the same heading south. Whilst the number of stops may be similar, the tram runs on the street for most of its journey south and consequently moves much slower and the stops are busier. I’d worked out in my mind that as long as I got to De Panne by 16:30 I would still have enough time to come back up and get off in a couple of locations.
The tram duly pulled into De Panne a couple of minutes before 16:30 and I had a look around the town, but by now the light was rapidly starting to fade, which is a bit of a shame as De Panne is a town that should be more famous than it is. In World War I it was capital of the only part of Belgium that wasn’t invaded by the Germans. And in World War II it wasn’t just the town of Dunkirk that witnessed the mass evacuation of Allied soldiers. It was the entire coast from Dunkirk to De Panne where soldiers were able to leave on the flotilla of little ships, given shelter by the dunes.
I got back on the tram and started my journey back towards Oostende. By the time I reached the first stop I had identified as a jumping off point it was already dark, and impossible to see the dunes, so I stayed on the tram all the way back to Oostende. By the time I got back I was left with 45 minutes to wait for the train to Brussels, but with not enough time to do anything else, so I collected my luggage, pulled out my book and waited for remainder of my journey home to continue.
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After an obscene amount of Sushi, and having left my friend to go back to work, I waddled over to Kings Cross station, grabbed a coffee and waited the hour for my train to be called.
On the dot of three the train pulled out of Kings Cross and three and a bit hours later, a couple of minutes early, it pulled into Berwick station.
I had checked online before I had left the exact location of the hotel and how to get to it, so I headed straight away from the station and towards the hotel. Sadly, the map I had consulted had been a little wrong, and it placed the hotel on the opposite side of the road from where it was. Unfortunately, that road was the A1 and I had to cross it on four occasions before I finally spotted the hotel back where I had come from 10 minutes previously.
Feeling slightly knackered I decided I couldn’t be bothered to walk back into town to grab any dinner so I made use of the conveniently located supermarket and then went back to my room for an early night.
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A few miles south of Berwick is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It’s where Christendom was re-established in the kingdoms of England, and from it’s monastery one of the most beautiful, treasured and famous books was produced. Today it’s simply called Holy Island, before the Vikings destroyed it it was Lindisfarne, birthplace of the Lindisfarne Gospel, certainly the most expensive and probably the most important book in the British Library.
The Island is only an Island for part of the day, for most of the time it is accessible by a three mile causeway from the mainland, but for four hours at the high tides the causeway ifs flooded and Holy Island becomes just that, an Island. The buses are timed so that they can get on, and back off the island when the causeway is open. At certain times it’s not a problem, as the tides move through the day there can be days when the causeway is only closed at night. Today, though, the tides meant that the causeway would close at midday and wouldn’t reopen until just after four. So once I was on the island, I was going to be on for some time. Having arrived with the tide on the turn the bus turned round and left again to get back to the mainland before it got stranded.
According to the tourist office, over half a million people visit Holy Island each year, today there was me and one other lady on the bus (bizarrely also from London) and just a handful of cars in the visitors car park. With so few tourists in the winter a lot of the island is either closed up on heavily reduced hours. Sadly, there also appeared to be a major event happening on the mainland as most of the islanders had gone and nearly all the shops and the Lindisfarne museum were closed.
My first, successful, stop of the morning was at the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory. Built by the monks who returned after the Vikings had been defeated, it fell into ruins after the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry VIII and today is a set of romantic ruins in the churchyard of the main church of the island. Having looked around the priory and the attached museum, I went for bit of a wander along the costal path.
At high tide the island is about 1 mile by 1 mile, but in that space it manages to fit in a wide variety of land forms and geological features. Along with craggy outcrops of rock (such as the one the castle is build on), the island has rolling pasture lands, mudflats and large amounts of Sand dunes.
The castle was closed for the winter break so I was unable to go in, but I could take in the land around it, including the small garden designed in the 1920’s (though in the middle of winter it’s a bit bare!) I then went for what I thought would be a short wander along the coastal path. In the end I spent nearly three hours walking, constantly being drawn away from the path by the breathtaking scenery, including the spectacular dune system and the perfect sandy beached bays.
I finally emerged from the dune system to see a small amount of the road starting to appear beneath the waves, evidence that it must be approaching four and time for the tide to recceed and the island to once again become connected to the mainland. The bus wasn’t due to leave until just after five, so I headed back into the centre of the island and had a bite to eat and a drink in the pub near the bus stop.
By the time I collapsed back onto the seat of the bus I was shattered but happy. By the time it had bounced down the causeway, over the rough roads of Northumberland and into Berwick I was shattered and with a rather full bladder, thankfully the station toilets were open so I was able to dash into them, before walking back to the hotel.
Having had dinner on the island (albeit very early) and with aching legs and feet I decided to just have a nice bath and collapse into bed for an early night.
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The walk around takes about an hour, longer if you divert off to look at the remains of the castle. Unfortunately, my late start hadn’t left me with enough time to do the latter as I was also aiming to catch a bus just before lunchtime to visit an attraction that was open. However, I had enough time to do one circuit, albeit briskly, of the battlements.
Having taken in the sights, I wandered down to the bus stop to catch the bus to Alnwick and from there on to Warkworth and its castle. The journey along the coast is spectacular, especially on such a clear day, with Holy Island and its causeway clear to see, and in the distance inland the peaks of snow-capped mountains. The other spectacular site was the sheer lack of customers on the bus. With the exception of one person who got on at Berwick and went to the next village along, I was the only person, all the way into Alnwick.
In Alnwick it was a quick change onto another equally deserted bus (though this one did at least pick up a few people on route) and onto Warkworth.
The castle in Warkworth absolutely dominates the town, visible from several miles away, the central tower shows how important this area was in the middle ages. I took an audio guided tour of the castle and then had a longer wander around the grounds, before walking back along the riverside, past the medieval church to the ancient bridge and entry gate into the town, which were still used up until a new bridge, was opened in the late 1960’s. Having sampled all that Warkworth had to offer I walked back to the bus stop with a couple of minutes to spare for the bus back to Alnwick.
Coming back from Alnwick the bus was positively packed with one other person on for virtually the whole way back to Berwick (he got off just on the opposite side of the Tweed) and one more getting on about half way along for a few stops. It did make me wonder how much money must Northumberland County Council used to subsidise my journey to make it profitable for the bus company.
Back in Berwick I had a much longer wander around the battlements, taking in the remains on the castle this time, and using the vantage point provided from the top of the walls to watch the last of the sunlight disappear into the Tweed and the stars come out.
By the time I finished walking around the walls I was knackered, so I decided to grab a bite to eat in a local fish and chip shop, and then, lazily, caught a cab back to the hotel for an early night.
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Having finally reached North Berwick, nearly two hours after leaving Berwick upon Tweed, I wandered down to the town centre to catch the bus to my first attraction of the day.
North Berwick is situated at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, and is the first major settlement after the coast has turned into the Firth. In it’s recent past its been a holiday destination, but longer ago it was an important strong-hold and the surrounding land is littered with castles and fortifications, my trip today was to see two of them.
I had originally considered walking to all the sites, as they are not more than a couple of miles from North Berwick, but it had dawned on me a couple of days ago that I had not given myself enough time when I had booked my return ticket from Edinburgh, so I had only a little over four hours in North Berwick to squeeze everything in, hence the reason that a few minutes after arriving in North Berwick I was already leaving it on the bus heading to my first castle.
Dirleton is a couple of miles West of North Berwick, and the site of the first castle of the morning. Having looked around that I managed to time it just right to catch the bus back into North Berwick and on up out of town to the supermarket.
The reason for heading to the supermarket was not to do a bit of shopping, but to let the bus do the difficult work of climbing up to the cliffs above the town, where the supermarket is conveniently located, from here it was a relatively flat two mile walk to the second castle, Tantallon.
Tantallon is sited on the cliffs overlooking the very turn of the coast, hence the impressive nature of the building and, on a clear day such as today, the stunning views out over the Firth.
Having taken in the views I started the walk back towards the supermarket. I got back a couple of minutes after the previous bus has left, so I decided to walk down the hill (which, lets face it is a lot easier than walking up the hill!) into North Berwick and have a look around the town centre, taking in the harbour and the beaches, before heading back to the station and my train back to Edinburgh.
Thankfully, the connection on the return leg was a little longer than it was on the outward leg, so I was able to grab a bite to eat, I’d been feeling hungry since shortly after leaving Tantallon castle, and the long walk hadn’t made things any better. After a quick bite it was back on the train and back to the other Berwick for the walk back up to the hotel and a very relaxing bath.
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From Berwick I headed south to Newcastle and then caught the train across the top of England, the line follows the Tyne valley and runs parallel to Hadrian’s Wall (hence it’s name the Hadrian’s Wall Country Line). Ninety minutes later the train pulled into Carlisle, the West Coast version of Berwick upon Tweed, where I changed onto my final train up through the Lowlands of Scotland towards Edinburgh.
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Five minutes early (and only 32 months after I should have done so by train) I arrived, for the second day in a row, in Edinburgh.
Having taken the long route round I now only had about 15 minutes to wait before the hotel started to checkin, and by the time I had wandered up to the hotel the wait was even less than that.
By now it was gone three, and getting on the wetter side of damp. It was too late to head out of the city centre, so I decided to visit the castle once again. This is my third visit, but this was my first visit since joining English Heritage, and consequently the entrance fee was zero (a bit of a saving on the £10 everyone else has to pay!)
After having a long look around the castle, I decided as I was doing things that I had already done before I might was well round the afternoon off with a visit to the Scottish Whiskey Heritage centre.
The centre has, at some point since my last visit, just over six years ago, rebranded itself as the “Scottish Whiskey Experience” (something quite a lot of things appear to be doing, become Experiences rather than just a museum or a centre). The museum part was being refurbished so was closed, instead, for a lot less than the normal entry fee, we got a talk and slideshow presentation on the creation of Whiskey, and a tasting tutorial, something that I’ve not previously had (all the distilleries I’ve been to always just give you a taster, no explanation about how to properly examine and taste a Whiskey)
Tanked up on two whiskeys before I’d even had dinner, I decided it was a good time to grab a bite to eat, and found a very nice Kurdish/Iranian restaurant just behind the castle (as you do in Scotland!). Having stuffed myself full, and cancelled out the effects of the Whiskey, I had a wander around the old town, before heading back to the hotel.
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The palace at Linlithgow has played an important part in the history of Scotland, and was the birth place of one of their most famous monarchs – Mary, Queen of Scots. Having looked around the palace I headed back to the station and continued on to Falkirk, a couple of stops down the line.
Falkirk is the point where the Union canal from Edinburgh meets that canal from Glasgow. There is only one slight problem. The Union canal is 35 meters higher than the Glasgow canal. Up until the 1930’s this was overcome through a ladder of 12 locks which took a day to navigate but got you from one to the other. In the 1930’s with the canals virtually dead the locks were abandoned, and then built upon.
Leap forward to the latter years of the 20th century, and a growing interest in revitalising all of Britain’s inland waterways, but how could you link these two back up now that locks were gone. Step forward modern technology, many millions of pounds of lottery funding, and the worlds first (and still only) rotating boat lift – the Falkirk wheel, and it was to here that I was headed.
The guidebook recommended two ways to get there, either the number 3 bus from outside the station, or a short walk along the Union canal, taking about 20 minutes. I decided to be healthy and take the walk. In the end it took closer to 40 minutes (I assume that the person who wrote the guide book ran, as I don’t see how you can do two miles in 20 minutes in a relaxed manner!)
After visiting the wheel, and having a voyage on it, I decided to take the bus back rather then walk, this proved to be equally inaccurate, as the bus stops at the bottom of the hill that the station is on, there is no signage, and you can’t actually see the station from the bus, it was only the kindness of the bus driving letting me know it was my stop that prevented me from continuing all the way into town.
Up until this point everything had been going very well, trains turning up within minutes of getting to the station, and no delays. It wasn’t possible for it to continue, and at Falkirk it didn’t. On arriving at the station there was a sign saying there were no trains towards Edinburgh because of a problem with the signalling and points equipment. I had three choices. Wander down into the town and try to see if a bus went to Edinburgh, wait on the station for the problem to be fixed, or take the train further West into Glasgow and then come back via an alternative route.
As I had time to spare, and appeared to have spent most of this trip travelling long distances out of my way, I decided to take option three and hopped on the train that was just arriving to Glasgow. When I got to Glasgow the problem still hadn’t been fixed so I walked the short distance from Queen Street to Central station and then took the, very long way back to Edinburgh, pootling along the slowest set of lines between Glasgow and Edinburgh.
By the time I got back to Edinburgh it had been dark for over an hour, and checkin was due to open in 40 minutes time, so I headed back to the bus station, picked up my luggage, hopped on an airbus which turned up as I got to the bus stop and promptly ran all the way to the airport without stopping. By the time I arrived at the airport I was still 5 minutes early for checkin, not that that really mattered, the flight was already delayed by 40 minutes!
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Having checked out over an hour earlier than I had originally intended to I grabbed a very early breakfast from the Tesco by Liverpool Street station and consumed it on the train up to Stansted. Thankfully, by the time I arrived at Stansted check in was already open, but in some confusion as people were being sent to the wrong bag drop zones by the check in machines.
I had a leisurely journey through the airport, and an uneventful, if full flight. Catching the bus into town required sitting in traffic for some time. The 10KM journey ended up taking over an hour to complete. By the time I checked into the hotel I was desperate for the toilet.
Having relieved myself, and unpacked, I headed out into the city centre. I had a quick wander away from the hotel towards the Cathedral, stopping for a late, but very pleasant lunch near the Cathedral. Suitably fed and watered (actually staggering slightly under the weight of food!), I headed back past the edge of the Cathedral and out onto the main street the Gran Via.
I decided to have a quick wander up to the Alhambra and have a look around the outside so I caught one of the multitude of minibuses that run up the tight, tiny roads. Having had a quick wander around the entrance area and along some of the walls I found myself on the edge of the car park just as the open-top bus arrived. As it was warm and sunny, I decided to spend a little time taking in the tour.
Having completed most of the tour back to the Cathedral I got off and had another short wander around before heading back to the sightseeing bus to catch the last service of the day, which would take in the city at sunset.
By the time I had completed that tour it was coming on for 8pm, perhaps a little early for dinner in Spain, but as I hadn’t properly slept the night before I wanted to get an early night, so I found a nice restaurant near where I had had lunch, had a quick dinner and then went back to the hotel for some decent kip.
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The views from the plaza here are spectacular, across the ravine of the Rio Darro to the hills of the Alhambra with the fort laid out before you. The Plaza is directly in front of the church of the same name, which was another converted mosque. Sitting just next door to it is the Mezquita Mayor de Granada, the current mosque, opened in 2004, over 500 years after the last of the Moors left Granada. The mosque operates an open door policy so I was able to wander around their beautiful gardens, taking in the views which were as stunning as those from the Mirador, with the added advantage that there are far less tourists (and conversely pick-pockets).
Having stopped for another latish lunch in a little cafe just behind the church I continued by wander through the Albaicín, taking in more of the sights, including several more churches which were converted from mosques, their bell towers showing distinct signs of a previous life as a minaret. Towards the end of the walk you pass along the Calle Calderería, a street full of shops laid out like an Arabian Souk.
By the time I got back to the Plaza Nueva at the bottom of the Albaicín I was quite tired, so I decided to take a quick stop in an internet cafe and book my ticket for the Alhambra for the following day. I had read in all of the guide books that it was important to book in advance as the number of tickets available is heavily restricted, and there is no guarantee when you go up to the ticket office that there will be any left for that day. Whilst looking online I saw an advert for the Bono Turístico card, which, along with admission to several museums, also gave access to the Alhambra and a couple of free bus rides. At the same time I also saw that the Alhambra would be open for evening viewing on Friday, so I decided rather than booking my ticket on-line I would book an evening ticket, and then get a Bono Turístico for a full day visit. Having completed my booking I wandered off to the tourist office to buy a card. Sadly, the tourist office doesn’t stock them, but a little Kiosk just down the road does, except that closed at 2 and it was now gone 4, though I could get one from a branch of the CajaGranada bank, except all the local branches were now closed, so I could pop down to the Science park, just two kilometres away to buy one. In the end I decided I couldn’t be bothered, but this left me with an issue of how to get a ticket for tomorrow.
All the guidebooks had said that you could purchase tickets through the cash machines of the BBVA bank, however, on visiting a branch of BBVA there was a big notice on the door, before you even got in, saying that with effect for 2007 they were no longer the agents for the Alhambra cards. As I wandered back towards the Cathedral my attention was caught by a notice stuck next to a cash machine of a branch of la Caixa bank. As I wandered over to it, whilst I could see it was in Spanish, it had the key words Alhambra and Credit Card. Five minutes later, having followed the step by step instructions in Spanish (and not having the faintest idea what they meant) I was in possession of my Alhambra ticket for the following day.
Having now sorted the ticket for the Alhambra I had a wander around the Cathedral area, taking in the Capilla Real and the Cathedral. As I emerged from the Cathedral it was just gone six, so I hopped onto a bus up to the Alhambra, and then wandered up through the Olive groves above the complex to the viewing platforms. Perched high on the hills above the Alhambra they have stunning views out of the planes that Granada rests on, with the mountains in the distance and the snow capped Sierra Nevada directly behind, and from here I was able to watch a stunning sunset, slowly turning the walls of the Alhambra, and the city into a deep red.
Having taken in the sunset, I caught a bus back down from the Alhambra and back up the hill of the Albaicín to the Mirador San Nicolás to take in the full scope of the Alhambra at night, and then hopped on another bus down past one of the former entrance gates of the city the Puerta Elvira.
By now it was getting quite late so I went for some dinner before heading back to the hotel and another good nights sleep.
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After a slightly more filling breakfast than the previous day (there was bread as well as cornflakes, and the juice machine was working). I headed out to the Alhambra to start some serious sightseeing.
I had a slot of 11:30 for entering the most spectacular part of the complex the Palacios Nazaries, but that meant I had quite a lot of time for wandering around the rest of the complex taking in the Palaces, Fortress and gardens.
By the time I had seen everything inside the complex it was almost half four, I was knackered and starting to feel quite hungry. I stopped at a little restaurant overlooking the entrance to the park, and had about the latest lunch I have ever had.
Sated, I wandered down past the Alhambra, following a pathway that runs alongside the walls of the complex with the Rio Darro running next to it. After quite a steep descent I arrived at the bottom of the Albaicín.
I had a short wander around the city centre before heading back to the hotel to freshen up ready for the night time trip back around the palaces.
I got up to the palace with time to spare, which was fortunate, as I had to walk along quite a bit of the outside to get to the open entrance (the way through from the ticket office I had taken in the morning isn’t open at night, probably to stop people getting lost or wandering off!) I wandered up inside the main part of the complex, and was able to go into the courtyard of the Palace of Charles V.
Having taken quite a few night shots of the site, it was time to go into the Palacios Nazaries. Whilst at night there are far fewer people around, so it’s less crowded, there is also far less of the site open (despite the ticket costing the same as a full day ticket). Most of the Palace was open, but you could only get so far before having to come all the way back, in the end most people, including me, were only in the palace for about 25 minutes (there are only so many photos of a building shrouded in darkness that you can take).
However, it was still late enough for the last busses to have departed, so I wandered back down the hill to the centre of town, and then back to my hotel for a well earned kip.
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In the end I decided to try my luck at the self-service ticket machine, and with some judicious “That looks like return” pressing of buttons, and quite a bit of luck, I had a day return ticket to Jaén in my possession. My only error was to select a confirmed bus for the journey back, rather than selecting an open return (which I kind of worked out just as I stuck my Credit Card in the machine, by which point it was far too late to do anything about it.)
10 minutes later I found myself on the bus, my ticket having been checked and confirmed to be correct, and we headed off North towards Jaén, taking in some stunning scenery. It is clear to see from the journey how important Olives are to the economy of Andalucía. Virtually every spare inch of land is planted with olive trees, mile after mile of plantations stretching up the sides of hills and into the distance.
Ninety minutes late we arrived in Jaén and I quickly wandered to the tourist office to find out the opening times of some of the attractions I wanted to visit (all my guide books, a couple of years out of date, all gave completely different times for everything, which wasn’t really helpful). With a set of times, a very good map and some suggestions for things to do in hand I headed out of the office to explore the city.
The first thing I did was get in a Taxi and leave the city! Albeit to go up to the Castle at the top of the hill. I already had an inkling that the walk would be quite steep and long (and on the way back down this was confirmed, so much easier to deal with a 4KM hill descent rather than an unknown distance assent up a track that at times was close to 45 degrees.
I had a look around the castle, and the views from the surrounding hillside, before walking back into town, just in time for lunch. After a stop for lunch I wandered down to the Palacio de Villadompardo where there were three sights to see, a Gallery, an Ethnographic museum, and the star attraction, the largest and most complete Arabic Baths in Spain.
By the time I had finished looking around the Palacio and I had wandered back to the Cathedral, it had opened for it’s evening session, so I had a look around that, before wandering down just past the bus station to the Museo Provincial for the Archaeological exhibits and the city art gallery.
When I had got my ticket out of the machine in the morning, I had been concerned, once I had failed to get an open return, that I would end up having to hang around the bus station or the city centre for a couple of hours. In the end I had to rush through the end of the Art gallery so that I could get back to the station in time to catch the bus back to Granada.
I caught the bus with about 10 minutes to spare, and collapsed, exhausted into my seat. Thankfully, I had had quite a large lunch and really wasn’t feeling hungry, so when I got back to Granada, I just went back to the hotel and to my welcoming bed.
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From the station it was quite a boring walk into the city centre, until you reach the fortress like Cathedral with its massive walls and towers (there to deter the Pirates that used to plague this part of the coast). Sadly, it being a Sunday the cathedral was fulfilling its proper function as a house of God, rather than as a tourist attraction.
I continued on walking through the old part of the city, gradually climbing up the hill to the spectacular Alcazaba resting over the city centre on it’s cliff top location. As this was about the only attraction open in Almería today I intended on exploring it thoroughly.
A couple of hours later, and with every corner of the Alcazaba explored I descended back down the hill in towards the centre of town, making a short detour up the side of another hill to the old city walls and the statue of Christ that overlooks the city. From here the views of the Alcazaba were stunning, though the surroundings were less than salubrious, looking as though the project had just been abandoned (a stairway that leads to nothing, and plants growing up between the paving slabs)
By the time I got back to the city centre I only had about 90 minutes until my evening train back to Granada so I went for a quick wander along the sea front, on a warm Sunday in March it was pretty busy, and after a quick ice cream I wandered back to the station.
I was quite glad I had a reserved seat, as the train was absolutely heaving, as it pulled out of the station there were already people standing, and they were still standing when I got off at Granada over two hours later (I hoped they weren’t going to be standing all the way back to Seville another 3 hours away, but the mass of humanity that greeted us as the doors opened at Granada station suggested that some would be.)
I wandered back from the station, stopping off behind the cathedral for a bite to eat, before heading back to the hotel to pack my bags and get some sleep.
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Alarmingly, given that I was flying with Ryanair, and most of my previous experiences haven’t been great, the flight left almost on time, and arrived back in London on time, my luggage was just coming round on the belt as I reached it, I hopped on a train which left moments later, caught a bus at Liverpool Street within seconds and just two hours after the plane touched down at Stansted I was sitting on the train back home from London Bridge. I’m fearing the worst for my next trip, it’s never been that smooth before, something spectacular is about to go wrong!
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I left the hotel and had a long wander around the centre of Munich, taking in most of the major sites, so much more easily when there isn’t 50,000 drunk people falling around the place (the other times I have visited Munich have always been during Oktoberfest)
In the end I spent nearly five hours wandering around the city centre, and it was only when I saw the time on the clock of the old town hall that I realised I need to grab a quick bite to eat before heading back to the hotel, as I wanted to get up early the next day
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The views from the top of the Zugspitze are stunning, and on a good day like today you supposedly can see four countries (Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Liechtenstein). Only problem, is that there are no signs to show what’s in each country. However, I was able to identify the Austrian areas more easily. As I walked across the top of the viewing station from the highest bar in Germany to the neighbouring restaurant I found myself entering the Tyrol region of Austria. There wasn’t much there and the restaurant was closed so I left Austria and crossed back into Germany.
Having taken my fill of the Zugspitze I caught the cable car back down to Eibsee and then the train back to Garmisch. From there I had a wander through the town up to another cable car. This climbs up to a mountain on the opposite side of the town from the Zugspitze. It’s also a mountain which many British tourists visit purely for its name – Wank.
The views of Garmisch-Partenkirchen are possibly even better from the top of Wank than from the Zugspitze. Having taken in the views, and a break for a very late lunch, I caught the cable car back down into town, and then picked up the train to the next town along Mittelwald.
I had a wander around the town, though there was not much to see. Having taken in the town I got the train back to Munich.
By the time I got back it was almost 9pm so I grabbed a bite to eat and headed back to the hotel to catch up on my sleep.
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This is the former home of the Electors and then Kings of Bavaria, and one of the largest buildings in the city. When I had been here a few years earlier I had looked around the treasury, but didn’t have time to look around the rest of the palace. And you do need time.
Four hours after entering the Residence, I emerged blinking into the daylight having explored only a part of the massive building. I had a quick pit stop for something to eat, and then wandered through the Hofgarten at the rear of the Residence and found myself by the Englischer Garten.
I stopped for a short while to have a look at the guys surfing on the artificial wave, before continuing walking through the garden. As I approached the Chinese tower the rain started to pick up from a light drizzle to quite heavy again, so I quickly dived under the tower for a short while to let if ease off.
When the rain stopped it revealed a rapidly clearing sky, so I wandered back into town and popped up the Frauenkirche, to take in the views. My hunch that the rain had cleared the sky was right and I had stunning views out over the city to the Alps in the distance.
I descended back down from the viewing platform and got back to the Marienplatz just in time to join the Beer and Brewery tour for the evening.
Just before midnight, and with quite a bit of beer in me, I walked back the short distance to the hotel from the Hofbrauhaus.
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Having taken in the main city abode of the Kings yesterday, I decided today would be a good time to have a look at the country retreat, so I caught the S-Bahn out to Oberschleißheim to look around the palaces there.
I didn’t quite get my timing right, and whilst walking in the gardens between two of the palaces I got quite a soaking, but by the time I was heading back to the station the sky was clearing and it was looking good for the afternoon.
I had a very late lunch, and just before 4 headed to the meeting point for the tour at the Old town hall.
Just before 10pm, and with quite a bit of beer in all of us (which in hindsight makes me wonder how I actually got back without killing myself) the tour arrived back at the office and I wandered back to the hotel
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But by the time I had woken up, had breakfast and packed it was already quite late, and the weather was so good that it seamed a waste of time to spend it inside a museum.
I went for a long wander around some of the places we had cycled past last night (given that I may not have been paying as much attention to the scenery as to cycling whilst drunk and not thinking about my rapidly expanding bladder), and took in some parts of Munich that I had not seen before including the stunning Angel of Peace statue.
After about two hours walking it was time to head back to the station to pick up my luggage that I had dumped there earlier, and head out to the airport and the flight home.
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Following a thorough inspection of the room, in which I could find no trace of any wildlife ever having scurried through it, I wandered out into the late evening sunshine of the city.
I spent about an hour hobbling around the city centre taking in some of the main sites including the Cathedral and Castle.
By the time I got back to the hotel I was feeling quite tired from the extra effort of hobbling against walking, so I had a bite to eat in the hotel cafe before turning in for an early night.
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By the time I woke up again it was just before 8, and time to get up anyway. The couple of hours sleep appeared to have fixed the worst of the pain in my foot, it was down to just a mild background throb, so I was able to contemplate the busy day I had planned.
At just a couple of minutes after nine I was standing at the bus stop waiting for the AD122 Hadrian’s Wall bus. Sadly, 20 minutes later I was still waiting as the bus had arrived from the garage, but the driver was caught in traffic coming in from, I assumed a different garage. Once driver and bus were reunited we set off.
The bus follows the line of the wall all the way; supposedly, to Newcastle (although there are no buses which do the whole trip and only one a day in each direction that actually make it to/from Newcastle). It dives down little country lanes, and as he was running a little late, at speeds which made for an interesting and bouncy ride. By the time we reached the first major fort on the wall the driver had made up the 10 minute delay he had started with. I stayed on the bus for a bit longer to my starting location of Vindolanda.
Having taken in the sites of Vindolanda and its museum I wandered back to the car park and caught the bus on to my next stop, the Roman Army Museum.
After taking in the museum I had a wander around the nearby Northumbria National Park visitors centre and a small, but very dramatic part of the wall. Then it was back onto the bus again for my final destination of the day.
Birdoswald Roman Fort is much smaller than the site at Vindolanda, but benefits from actually being on the wall. When I visited there as a “Living History” session taking place, which made the site very busy, and hefty chunks of it closed off to visitors.
Outside the fort there are some substantial remains of the wall stretching for over a mile, down the side of a hill and back up the other side. I had a wander part way along to the start of the descent at a mile fort, but by now I could feel my ankle really starting to twinge so I thought it would probably be wise to wander, slowly, back to the bus stop, getting there with nearly half an hour to wait, but still able to walk.
By the time we arrived back into Carlisle my ankle had started to seize up so it was quite painful hobble down to the station to book a ticket for the following morning, and then back to the hotel to rest my foot for a while, at which point I also spotted that I had managed to get myself burnt, which given it’s a bank holiday weekend in the UK should have been impossible.
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Having left Carlisle the train travels out to the coast at Maryport and then follows the line of the coast, at time literally hugging the base of the cliffs, round all the way to Barrow. However, that was a stop for later, my first stop of the morning was the small town of Ravenglass (just beyond the small but slightly more famous, and luminous, Sellafield nee Windscale!)
Ravenglass is the terminus of the Ravengalss and Eskdale railway, a narrow gauge railway which runs inland from the coast to the heart of the dales. Its run entirely as a tourist venture these days, but previously it was a working industrial line. I took the train all the way to the end of the line at Dalegarth. I had intended on having a wander around the area, perhaps wandering into the Dales, or perhaps the round trip walk to the Roman ruins. Unfortunately, by now my foot which had been twinging earlier in the day was in agony, so I only wandered a couple of hundred yards towards the village of Boot, had a quick look around and then hobbled back to the station.
Having had a very nice ice cream in the station cafe to take my mind off my foot I got on a return train back to Ravenglass. Unlike the journey to Dalegarth, the return had open carriages so I sat in one of those. By the time I got back to Ravenglass I was feeling much more relaxed about my foot as my attention was now focusing on my quite warm arms, the weather was clearly much better than I had thought it was!
I had a short wander around the exhibition at Ravenglass station before it was time to catch the train onwards to Barrow-in-Furness. Arriving at Barrow I had intended on missing the first train, visiting the ruins of the Abbey about a mile out of town and then catching the train two hours later. Sadly, by now my foot was back in control of the pain receptors, so I got on the train and headed on to Lancaster.
At Lancaster I had a 40 minute wait for a train back towards Carlisle, so I popped into the station cafe, and there, to my relief, not only was I able to grab a very late lunch and a nice cold drink, they also stocked painkillers (I had left my packet at the hotel thinking I wouldn’t need them). 30 minutes later, and with only mild twinges (and the thought at the back of my mind that I was probably causing irreparable damage to my ankle) I wandered over the foot bridge at Lancaster and caught the train north.
By the time it got to Penrith my foot was still only slightly twinging, so I got off and had a look around the ruins of the castle, directly opposite the station. I wandered back to the station, sensing that the painkillers were starting to wear off and that it might be a painful walk back from Carlisle station, so I grabbed dinner in a cafe next to the station so that I could head straight from the station in Carlisle to my hotel bed.
After my snack I caught the train back to Carlisle, and as predicted had a painful hobble back to the hotel.
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First stop, once again, was the station for another early train, and another special ticket, this time a “North West Round Robin” which takes in one of the most famous lines in the country, the Settle to Carlisle line. For such a famous line the frequency of trains is even less than the previous days Cumbrian coast line, but then there was a time when there could have been no trains. The line came within weeks of being shut (they had even put up the closure notices with the confirmed closure date before a final last minute reprieve). Today, it’s a booming line, though the 8:53 this morning only had a spattering of people as it pulled out of Carlisle.
By the time we reached Dent, the highest station in England, the train was bustling with most seats taken, hill walking equipment strewn around the carriage, and a guide from the friends of the Settle and Carlisle line pointing out key sights.
From Dent the line descends to one of the most famous railway structures in the country, the Ribblehead viaduct. Whilst it’s not as architecturally stunning as the Forth rail crossing, and there are considerably longer viaducts and bridges elsewhere in the country, the sheer beauty of the scenery that it crosses is hard to beat. Just at the end of the viaduct, situated in the middle of nowhere, is Ribblehead station, here you can disembark and take in the viaduct, or go walking, but I had a cunning plan. Rather then spending three hours at Ribblehead, where I was sure after looking at the viaduct I would have to find something to do for nearly three hours, I stayed on the train to Settle, where I would have an hour to look around there, before catching the train back to Ribblehead, and then catching the next train back towards Settle and beyond.
Settle was a pleasant market town, with a lively market and a small museum, though there wasn’t really anything particularly spectacular about it. According to the guidebooks the best thing to see was to climb to the top of Castleberg to take in the sites of the surrounding countryside, but sadly, Castleberg is currently closed as it’s unstable. After wandering around the town for about 50 minutes I made my way back to the station and then back to Ribblehead.
It was only as I was walking along the path at the foot of the Viaduct that I remembered how much pain I had been in the previous day and wondered where it had all gone (apart from a minor ache in my leg muscles, but probably more caused by them having gotten used to walking strangely whilst my foot was playing up).
As I had predicted it didn’t take very long to take in the Viaduct and the Dales around it, so I wandered back to the station with about 25 minutes to spare before the train. The ticket allows you to cover quite a distance, though in reality, once you have gone beyond Settle there isn’t much more to see as I was about to find out.
From Ribblehead I got back on the train all the way to Leeds, where it was a quick change onto the train to Preston going through Bradford, Halifax, Burnley and Blackburn. Whilst there were a few small sections of stunning scenery, most of the ride was pretty dull, and some of the towns that the train went through remind you that there are swathes of the country which have never recovered from the industrial decline of the 1970’s and 80’s. At Preston I changed onto the train back towards Carlisle, but then changed my mind at Oxenholme and got a return ticket on the branch line out to Windermere in the heart of the Lake District.
Of course, what I had just done was the standard tourist thing of thinking that because there is a lake called Lake Windermere, and there is a town in the Lake District called Windermere, the two must be next door to each other. With just an hour between arriving and having to catch the train back to Oxenholme to stand any chance of making back to Carlisle in a reasonable time, I didn’t have much time to explore. You can get to the side of the lake from Windermere, but it’s a 25 minute walk down hill from the station, so after just a couple of minutes taking photos I had to head back up the hill to catch the train back to Oxenholme and from there back to Carlisle and my bed.
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Having decided it was no use in going back to sleep I got up and then went out to explore the sites of the city. My first stop of the morning was the imposing bulk of Carlisle Castle. Having had a long look around that I crossed over the road to the Tullies House Museum which tells the history of the city.
I had a quick stop for a bite to eat before heading back out on the bus into Hadrian’s Wall Country, except this time I was only going back just over 800 years rather than nearly 2000. I got off at the ruins of Lanercost Priory, once a wealthy monastic order, slowly brought to it’s knees by being used as a base for armies going in both directions, and finally succumbing to Henry VIII reformation.
I caught the bus back into town from Lanercost and then hopped on another one back out the other side of town to Bowness-on-Solway. Bowness is a pleasant little town on the Solway Firth. But it is also a Geographically and Historically important place. It is here in the very top left hand corner of England that Hadrian’s wall meets the West coast, and England comes to an end. Across the waters of the Solway Firth is Scotland, and behind the Wall stretches for 84 miles back towards Newcastle.
Of course, technically Bowness isn’t actually the end of the wall, that would just have been far to easy to sail round and attack from the English side, so the wall continued along the coast all the way to Ravenglass, but this is the start or end point (depending on your direction) for people who want to “Walk the Wall” and so I set off on my walk.
I had no intention of completing the walk in full, just the first mile or so into the town of Port Carlisle to pick up the bus (and stop for a quick drink in the nice looking pub opposite the bus stop), but it does give me the opportunity, this August, to walk the last mile or so into Wallsend near Newcastle and successful claim to have walked from both ends of the wall (just ignoring that it took three months and only involved actually two miles of walking)
Having had a very pleasant half pint (I didn’t want to knock back a full pint in the 20 minutes I had to wait for the bus, another 10 minutes and it might have been a different story!) I caught the bus back into Carlisle to start packing for my move on north tomorrow.
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Thankfully, by the time I reached Glasgow it was down to a slight drizzle which itself was starting to ease. I caught the station link bus round from Glasgow Central to the bus station and dropped my bags off at the left luggage office.
I walked the short distance to Queens street station and then caught the train out to Hillfoot to visit a less famous Roman Wall.
Built 20 years after it’s more famous southern relative, the Antonine Wall ran the much shorter distance between the Firths of Forth and Clyde. It wasn’t a success and not more than 20 years later the Roman army retreated back to Hadrian’s wall, but in the time they were there they managed to leave a mark. Halfway between Hillfoot and Bearsden stations are the remains of Bearsden Roman Baths, the only remaining part of a fort that stood on the line of the wall.
Having looked around the baths I walked back to Bearsden station and caught the train south and over 1000 years forward through history to Uddingston and the castle of Bothwell.
After looking around Bothwell it was time to head back into Glasgow, pick up my stuff and check into my hotel for the night out at the airport. Having done that I caught the bus the short distance into Paisley and picked up the train to Ayr on the Scottish west coast.
As I arrived in Ayr the weather was already well on the turn with the skies rapidly clearing, and as I walked along the sea front the mists in the distance started to clear and I had the stunning view across the millpond still waters to the isle of Arran and behind it the Mull of Kintyre peninsular.
Then it was time to head back to the hotel to get some sleep. I wandered back to the station and caught a train back to Paisley, contemplating the idea at getting off at one or two of the other seaside stations on the way back up. In the end I didn’t which proved to be the right idea as I discovered when I caught the last bus of the evening back to the hotel, one train later and it would have been a two mile walk (or a taxi)!
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At Newton Abbott a whole school load of kids got on filling the already busy train up to beyond capacity, which made getting out at the next station quite interesting. I walked away from the station and prepared myself for what I thought would be about a 10 minute walk to the hotel. As I came round the corner from the station I realised that Google Maps had struck again and in fact the hotel was only yards from the station.
After checking in and dumping my stuff I had a wander into town. The walk from the hotel in Torquay proper was quite dull, along a few shopping streets (which had an alarming number of empty shops). However the walk was rewarded by the stunning scenery of Torbay when I got down to the coast.
I had a wander along the seafront and part way along stopped off to have a ride on the Torquay High Flyer balloon to take in some of the views, with the sweep of the bay all the way from Torquay through to Brixham visible in the warm evening sun.
Having descended back down to earth I continued on walking along the coast road, eventually, after about an hour of walking, arriving into Paignton. I had a look around the town and a quick bite to eat before deciding to cheat at catch the bus back to the hotel, which given I had walked over three miles I though was perfectly reasonable.
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The bus journey to Paignton was painfully slow. Not only did the bus stop almost everywhere, and then waited for 10 minutes in central Torquay, by the time it left Torquay it had passed the magical start time for the Senior free bus pass, which meant that by the time the bus reached the High Flyer it was already heaving. By the time I arrived in Paignton it was already gone 10. I had intended on catching the steam train down the preserved line to Kingswear for Dartmouth, but the queue for tickets made it pretty clear that there would be little chance of getting a ticket before the departure at 10:30, and even if I did, I would be standing all the way, so I walked back to the bus station to catch the bus.
The bus pulled out at 10:30, at exactly the same time as the steam train, and even though the bus went a more circuitous route as we manoeuvred our way past the queue for the Dartmouth ferry into Kingswear the train was only just arriving.
Of course, this did mean that several hundred people all at once were wanting the ferry across to Dartmouth, so I had a bit of a wander around Kingswear, letting the worst of the queues die down, before catching the ferry across the Dart to Dartmouth. From there I wandered down to the ferry down the river to the castle.
Having looked around both the castle and the church I walked back into Dartmouth to have a look around the town, and then caught the ferry back over to Kingswear. Onto a different bus and out to the final of the Torbay triumvirate of towns, Brixham.
A quick look around the town later and it was onto the bus back to Paignton. With the sun still beating down, and the busses busy with recently released school children, I decided to catch the open-top bus to Totnes. A quick look around Totnes and then back onto the bus to Paignton and then, avoiding the still busy, and painfully slow, bus back to Torquay, I decided to catch the train back two stops to Torre.
Having stopped for a quick pit stop I headed off again, this time north to Newton Abbott. I had intended on exploring the town and maybe stopping for dinner, but on arrival it was pretty clear that there wasn’t very much in the town (or else I didn’t find the correct area in my 20 minutes wandering), so I hopped back onto the bus into Torquay to grab a bite to eat and then back to the hotel for a well deserved sleep.
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By the time the bus finally left the suburbs of Torquay (which in itself took nearly 30 minutes), the bus was absolutely heaving and I was squished in a seat with mostly a pillar as a view.
Consequently, by the time I finally saw a sign for the castle we were in the process of pulling away from a bus stop, it was pointing back the direction we had come, and said it was a mile away. I decided it was probably easiest to stay on the bus and carry on into Dartmouth. Which I was glad I did as the view I could see (and after Totness it emptied out enough for a few minutes to get a better window seat) was stunning, as the bus chugged (and at time struggled up hills) its way through the Devon countryside to Dartmouth.
Dartmouth itself was even busier than it had been yesterday, so I quickly grabbed a sandwich from a supermarket, ate it quickly on a bench on the river side, and then caught the ferry back across to Kingswear, with enough time to make the 13:30 steam train back to Paignton.
From Paignton it was a quick bus ride back to Torquay and then onto Torre Abbey, before rounding off the afternoon with a ride on the Town Road Train.
After a quick pit stop back at the hotel I caught the bus into Brixham for a bite to eat and then the evening on the Original Brixham Ghost Walk.
By the time I got the bus back to Torquay it was almost 11, so I headed back to the hotel to get some kip.
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After taking in the caves it was time to head back to the hotel and pick up my luggage. I could have caught the train from Torre station, but as I had just missed the train, and the next one wasn’t for over an hour I decided to catch the bus back along the coast to Paignton to pick up the fast train to Exeter and then onto Barnstaple.
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After settling in I wandered out for a walk around town before grabbing a bite to eat and heading back to the hotel and a early night ready for an early start tomorrow.
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I had read a bit about the journey to Lundy before I set off, and most of the descriptions were horrific, of horrendous journeys across with everyone lurching around the ship and throwing up off the side, of day trips having to be cancelled because the sea was going to be too rough to take people back, so it was with some trepidation that we set off.
Millpond, Ironing Board, Pancake, there aren’t enough descriptive flat words to explain quite how calm the journey out was. A crystal clear blue sky, the boat cutting through the water, barely making any movement, and as we approached Lundy a family of Dolphins joined us and leapt along side.
I had seven hours in Lundy, and I thought that this would probably be quite long. If the weather had been bad (as had been forecast all week) it was going to be many hours sitting in the tavern reading the book I had brought with me.
In the end, with the weather remaining the excellent side of Glorious, I was able to wander over the whole of the island, taking in its stunning scenery, ruined buildings and, at the end, the Tavern for a swift bottle of beer (alcohol free, as they had run out of all the other stuff), then it was time to take the ferry back.
As I was making my way back down to the harbour you could see the quite menacing black clouds hovering over the Devon coast, which made it look as though some people were getting a soaking (as I found out later it was most of the North coast of Devon, and Biddeford in particular getting quite a downpour). On Lundy itself it was starting to get a little hazy, and I feared that the journey back to the mainland was likely to be more “lively” than the journey out.
I was wrong, if anything it was even stiller (no Dolphins rocking the boat!), so still in fact that we made excellent time and had to spend 10 minutes sitting off the coast waiting for the tide to rise high enough on the estuary to allow the boat to cross the sand banks safely and access the river down to Biddeford.
After landing I grabbed a bite to eat in Biddeford, before hopping back on the bus to Barnstaple to tend to the sun burn I had managed to get (despite constantly applying suntan cream throughout the day!)
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As the hotel had quite an early checkout time, I had a few hours to kill before we would meet up. I left my bags with the hotel and headed over to the station to hire a bike for a few hours.
Today, Barnstaple is the end of the line for trains from Exeter, but up until the cuts of the 1960’s trains continued on, across what is today the station car park and along the coast through to Bideford and onto Torrington. Whilst the trains may no longer serve the line, the trackbed had been converted into a cycle and walking path which has the great advantage of being pretty level the whole way through, and makes it a perfect detour for a few hours.
I set off from the station, cycled underneath the bypass and then out onto the old railway line. I made it virtually the whole way to Torrington before it was time to turn around and head back to Barnstaple.
Whilst the journey out had been marked with the odd spit and spot of rain the journey back was a little more unpleasant. As far as Bideford it was fine, but as I left Bideford the rain started to come down, not heavily, but just continuously. Added to that the wind got up, and as is the case with these things, it was a head wind, driving the rain into my face and slowing my progress down quite a bit.
By the time I got back to Barnstaple I was a little damp, and was absolutely knackered. I had also been on quite a hard saddle, so I had a bit of a sore behind. I walked, slowly into Barnstaple to meet up with my friend for a few hours before it was time to catch the train back home.
On arriving at Exeter the previous Paddington train still hadn’t arrived, it was already over 10 minutes late, and my train was already 30 minutes late. Given that it wasn’t originally due into London until gone Midnight this was looking like quite a serious problem. However, when the earlier train arrived the train manager very kindly allowed me to get on his train (even though my ticket was technically only valid on the later train)
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A quick zip through the airport wasn’t quite quick enough and I missed the bus into town, so I had a thirty minute wait for the next one. By the time I arrived in Belfast it was already quite late so I checked into the hotel and decided to get an early night
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In the end I couldn’t be bothered with the additional two syllables and just called it Derry. When, over two hours later the train finally pulled into the station I was glad to see that all the signs from the local council say Derry rather then Londonderry.
On the map it hadn’t looked that long, but in the end it was nearly a 30 minute walk from the station to the hotel (though that did include going down the wrong road.) And that was up a pretty hefty hill.
After dropping my stuff off at the hotel I headed out into the city to have a wander around. To get the best views of the city I had a walk around the city walls, which form a complete circle around the city centre.
I then went for a wander along the river side, before being caught in a hefty shower, which was my queue to head back to the hotel for a bite to eat.
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As the rain started to subside I left the TIC at the same time as the open top tour of Derry (thankfully today operating with a fully closed top!) was getting ready to leave, so I went on that tour to take in the sites. As it pulled back into the TIC an hour later I was then in time to take a walking tour of the city centre.
Having completed my suite of tours for the day I wandered down into town to complete my riverside walk which was so rudely interrupted by the weather, on to the Foyle Valley Railway museum.
With that museum under my belt I headed back into the city centre to do the main museum, the Tower museum. I was quite surprised as to how much there was to see in there, and in the end I didn’t get to see it all, as despite having nearly three hours when I arrived, by the time I left they were shutting the doors for it’s closing time.
I had a bit more of a wander around the city, including wandering down into the main part of the Bogside to take some close up pictures of the murals on the walls of the buildings before having a wander back through the city and further down the riverside.
By the time I got back to the city centre it was starting to get quite late, so I stopped for a bite to eat before heading back to my new hotel (having been put up in the owners other B&B the evening before hand as the one I had booked into I would have been the only guest).
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First stop of the morning was Castlerock and a walk along the cliffs to the Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne. I spent over two hours walking to and around the site, and as I wandered back to the station I realised that I had managed to time it just so that I would miss trains in both directions and have a nearly two hour wait. Thankfully the trains were playing up and the Belfast train was still sitting in the station (and diverted to Portrush) when I arrived.
It left a few moments later and 30 minutes further down and then up the line I found myself in Portrush.
This is Northern Ireland’s premier beach resort, and it is just like any major British sea-side town on a sunny Saturday, absolutely packed and unbearable, so I headed out to the bus station and into the countryside.
I caught the open-top bus out towards the Giants Causeway, with the intention of changing there onto another bus to take me onto the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge which had been closed when I had gone on the Giants Causeway tour from Belfast last November. I felt quite glad to be going on from the Causeway as it was absolutely heaving with tourists and coaches; a far cry from the peacefully quiet place I remembered from November.
I got to the rope bridge with just over an hour before the final bus of the day back. Not a problem I thought, how wrong I was. Firstly from the entrance kiosks it’s a walk of just over a Kilometre, or 10 minutes to get to the bridge, and then you have to queue to get over and then queue to get back over. When I got to the bridge the queue was over 30 minutes in each direction, meaning that if I joined the queue I would miss the last bus of the day by at least 20 minutes, so I decided to take some photos of the bridge (and a couple of people freaking out on it and freezing to the spot and having to be pulled over, possibly another cause of the long delays crossing), before heading back to the car park and start the journey back.
Whilst getting to the rope-bridge had taken over 6 hours (albeit that it wasn’t my original intention of going there, I had thought Portrush might have been more pleasant, and on the way out I did spend two hours wandering around Castlerock), the journey back was decidedly more speedy.
As the weather was starting to look a little ropey (and there were still masses of tourists at the Causeway), I caught the bus back into Bushmills and picked up the open-top bus on it’s outward bound journey to the causeway. Consequently I had a comfy seat out of the light drizzle when it left the causeway loaded town with tourists.
There was an event going on in Portstewart so the bus went straight down the main road into Coleraine rather than following the coast which made the connection in Coleraine for the train back to Derry even more comfortable that it had previously been. On arrival in Derry there was a bus waiting to go back to the bus station so less than three hours after leaving the Rope Bridge I was walking into a restaurant in Derry for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel to pack, ready to move on the following morning.
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It also gave me the opportunity to find out quite how quiet Derry is on a Sunday morning. The answer is very quiet. The bus station had only just opened when I arrived at a little after 10:45, and the first bus that pulled in was my 11:30 departure to Galway from the depot over the border in Letterkenny. A little before we were due to leave a Ulsterbus did pull in, pick some people up and leave again, but that was the only other sign of any public transport in the city this Sunday morning.
The bus left on time and headed out of the city and out of the country across the most invisible border in the world. Anywhere else you could have mistaken the sign for just a road sign telling you that you were in a new county, the only difference is that County Donegal is in a different country to County Derry.
The bus pulled into the first main stop at Letterkenny about 5 minutes early and the driver popped out to speak to a member of staff. I didn’t think anything of it, but a little bit further on at the next stop some 25 minutes late we were all asked to get off the coach and get on the (much nicer) coach in front. The driver had reported at Letterkenny that his Speedometer was sticking at 70 KPH so he didn’t know how fast he was actually going on the main roads, hence getting to Letterkenny ahead of schedule.
After the change of bus the journey was uneventful as we headed South and West towards Galway.
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We arrived in Galway on time, and in a window of good weather, so I was able to walk to the bus stop, get the bus out to my B&B and get into the hotel before the sky burst open again.
I sat out this particularly heavy downpour in the hotel, and after it had cleared walked back down the hill into town. As I set off the sky was blue and the sun was out, but twice on my way into town I had to dive for cover as yet another wave of rain came across.
I had a long wander around town, punctuated with regular dives for cover. The last downpour finally let up, but rather than stopping it went into a continuous drizzle. With the skies still looking threatening, and the option of either 15 minutes or nearly two hours for the next buses (as I had no intention of walking back up the hill in this weather) I decided to grab dinner in the form of some supplies for a spa and then dived onto the bus just as the weather picked up it’s relentless soaking again.
15 minutes later and with great timing the rain paused just as the bus arrived at my stop so I was able to leap off and scamper to the hotel before the skies opened again. I had a look online at the weather forecast for the day (some showers) and for tomorrow (mostly sunny) and contemplated whether I should get a wetsuit or a dry-suit for the following day.
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After the tour I had a bit of a wander through the city centre before finding myself at the quayside for the Lough Corrib river cruise, which I decided to join. By now it was beautifully sunny and warm so I sat up on the sun deck. 20 minutes into the cruise and everyone was diving for the lower deck cabin as the skies opened again, then it cleared, everyone went up towelled down the seats to make them dry and enjoyed another 10 minutes before the heavens opened again, this repeated twice more during the 90 minute cruise.
After the river cruise I wandered back into the centre of town, via a quick visit to the cathedral, and visited the Galway museum. I had intended on joining a walking tour at three after visiting the museum, but as I stepped out of the museum at about ten to three the skies were looking menacing again. I decided not to risk it and instead joined a different open-top tour for another tour of the city. Whilst it hadn’t rained at three and the skies had cleared quite nicely, halfway round the skies opened again and I again found myself running for the cover of a lower deck, and very grateful that I hadn’t gone on the walking tour as I would probably have been soaked.
Finishing the tour I had a bit more of wander around the centre of the city taking in a few of the sights before heading back to the hotel, getting to within 200 meters of the door before the skies opened again and this time getting absolutely soaked as there was nowhere to head to.
After a change of clothes I wandered back out again, this time into almost clear blue skies with no clouds looking threatening. I had a wander down the hill from the hotel onto Galway bay and walked along the Prom all the way from Salthill back into the centre of Galway, which made for a very pleasant evening with the sun (and force 9 gale) on my back.
A quick bite to eat in the city centre and then back to the hotel to pack.
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The tour headed out along the banks of Lough Corrib and then out into the Wilds of Connemara stopping at a ruined abbey at Ross Errily before heading to the village of Cong where they filmed “The Quiet Man”. From there it was a drive through the stunning scenery of Connemara, where the small coach proved its worth going up little lanes into the hills that a normal sized coach wouldn’t be able to traverse.
The main stop of the day was at Kylemore Abbey and Gardens, then it was time to start heading back towards Galway, only there was a slight problem. Two of the tour group failed to show at our departure time. They had got ten to four and ten past four confused and wandered back, thinking they were on time, 20 minutes late. Normally this wouldn’t have been a problem, but the tour was now not going to arrive back into Galway until after 6, and the luggage office closed at 6.
The driver got onto the office who went and spoke very nicely to the left luggage office staff at the station and because I had been able to describe my bag (and more importantly had left the Belfast baggage tag on it so I was able to uniquely prove it was my bag as it had my name and I could confirm the flight details), they let them take it so we didn’t have to worry about getting back into town in time.
After the tour ended I was reunited with my luggage, grabbed some water for the bus journey, and waited for my coach to Limerick
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After checking in I had a quick wander around the city, taking in some of the stunning views of the late evening sun, setting behind the clouds over the Shannon, before grabbing a bite to eat and then back to the hotel for a well earned sleep.
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Having looked round the museum I was about to walk round to the castle when I stumbled across the well-hidden and not publicised (no flyers or notices in the tourist information centre) open-top-tour of the city. I did a circuit on that, having to dive for cover part way round as the skies opened (becoming a feature of this trip!).
I then continued my walk taking in St Mary’s (Church of Ireland) Cathedral before moving down to the main site of the city, King Johns Castle.
In the end, with a combination of lots to see, and dodging between buildings to avoid sharp showers, I spent nearly all the afternoon in there, coming out of the castle just in time to avoid the next shower by hopping on the last tour bus of the afternoon.
I quickly detoured up to the bus station to buy my ticket for the following morning before wandering back to the hotel for dinner and an early night.
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I had to wait a bit before I could check into the hotel, though they did look after my luggage for me, so I had a wander around the city centre taking in all the changes, as well as popping via the station to collect my train ticket for the following day.
After checking in to the hotel, I wandered back to the bus station and picked up the coach to Cashel in county Tipperary, famous for its Rock and the ruins of a once great Cathedral there.
I spent the whole afternoon looking around the town, including the ruins of two abbeys, the rock, and the museum to Irish music and culture, finally getting a bus back just before 7. By the time I got back into Cork it was getting late so I had a quick bite to eat, before heading to bed.
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After the tour I wandered back to the hotel, picked up my stuff and walked over to the station to catch the train to Dublin
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After getting out to the hotel and dropping my stuff off I headed out into the city to do a spot of sightseeing.
As the weather was starting to clear, and as I have seen Dublin many times before, I decided to head slightly out of the city to take in the views of Dublin bay. Previously I have done this from Howth in the north, this time I went south to Bray.
Unfortunately, by the time I reached Bray the weather had started to make a turn for the worse and I it was impossible to make out anything more than about a mile away.
After getting a bit of a soaking I headed back into town, and out the other side, but here it was even worse, with a really strong wind making it difficult to stand still to take photos, so I decided to jack it in and head back to the hotel for dinner and an early night.
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Unfortunately, as it was a bank holiday weekend, the tram was partially closed to enable extension works to go ahead, consequently I had to walk the final two stops past Busaras to Connolly station to catch the “Enterprise” service to Belfast
The Enterprise service is run jointly by Iarnród Éireann and Northern Ireland Railways providing the only cross border train service in Ireland. It’s got a reputation for being a symbol of cooperation during the worst of the troubles.
It also has a reputation for being habitually late, and this morning was no difference. The inbound train from Belfast should have arrived at 09:55 when I got to Connolly station and a little after 10:15 it still hadn’t arrived; in fact it didn’t arrive until gone 10:30.
A very quick clean later (and not enough time to put the reservation cards in, I was quite glad I was at the front of the queue so I was still able to get the seat I wanted), and they started boarding us at a little after 10:40.
We pulled out on time, and appeared to be going smoothly, for the first two minutes, until we found ourselves behind a stopping train all the way to Howth Junction, we then picked up speed, but by the time we crossed the border we were already 10 minutes late.
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From Belfast Central I hopped on the next train back to Great Victoria Street and walked the short distance to my hotel for the night.
Having checked in and dropped all my stuff off, I headed back out to go south of the city to Strangford Lough, the largest sea Lough in the British Isles.
There are several ways of getting to the lough; I caught the bus down the coastal side of the Ards Peninsular and round the bottom to Portaferry.
I had a look around the town, taking in the aquarium (Exploris) and its ruined castle, before popping across the mouth of the lough to Strangford on the opposite side. The 150 Square Kilometers of lough narrows down to a channel just a couple of hundred meters wide by Strangford and the ferry really had to fight the tide to get across.
I had a wander around Strangford, taking in it’s slightly less ruined castle, before it was time to head back across the lough to Portaferry and the bus back to Belfast.
The return bus ran up the edge of the Lough to its start at Newtownards, offering a different selection of stunning views to the ones on the way out.
By the time I finally arrived back in Belfast the light was starting to fade so it was time to grab a bite to eat and then head to bed.
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I didn’t have very much time as I had an early evening flight so it was only going to be a quick touring visit. From Belfast I caught the bus out to Newcastle, down quite close to the border with the republic. There I picked up the summer only Mourne Rambler bus which went up into the hills and mountains.
Whilst mostly designed as a way for walkers to get into the mountains to start their hikes, you can just sit on the bus and go once round its circular route back to Newcastle through some of the most stunning scenery in Northern Ireland.
Having made it back to Newcastle I hopped back on the bus to Belfast and then onto one of the Open-Top tours of the city to take in some of the sights.
By the time I got back to the centre of Belfast it was fast approaching the time to head off to the airport, but there was just time to go into the new shopping centre and take the lift to its viewing dome at the very top of the building to take in some of the views over the city.
Then it was back to ground level, over to the hotel to grab my luggage and back to the bus station to catch the airport bus and start my journey home.
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I decided to sidle across the road to the much quieter St Pancras and keep an eye on the live departures information on the internet, consequently I was able to sit in quiet with a good book until five minutes after my train was due to leave when it finally gained a platform number, sidle back cross to Kings Cross and board in a much more relaxed frame of mind that some of my fellow passengers.
In the end we were only 25 minutes late in departing (good considering the train an hour earlier than mine had only left a few minutes before mine), and a significant number of people had jumped on the other trains so mine was quite empty. However, it was clear that there were still some fractious people on board as the “Bar-Cafe” manager had to keep announcing that the “Bar-Cafe” would be late opening as they hadn’t had time in the short turn around at Kings Cross to get everything set up, by the third announcement you could hear the frustration in her voice!
We lost a bit more time on route and arrived into Newcastle around 30 minutes late. I walked from the station to the hotel, which is the point at which I discovered that Newcastle is built on some pretty steep hills, and my hotel was at the bottom of the second one from the station.
Having checked in and dumped my stuff I headed off with the intention of visiting Tynemouth Priory and Castle, so I headed for the Metro station and hit a major problem. The Metro is nearly 30 years old and it doesn’t look like they have ever upgraded the ticket machines. What might have been OK in the early 80’s isn’t quite so practicable by 2009. I hadn’t expected the machines to take credit and debit cards, but notes would have been useful. The only thing the machines would take was coins; the only thing I had was a note. So I to wander back into the very centre of town to the main Metro station to find a change machine and buy my ticket there.
By the time I had messed around with all this, and then just missed a train, it was getting on for 5pm, and by the time we finally reached Tynemouth closer to half five, by which point the site would be closing, so I stayed on the train round to the seaside resort of Whitley Bay to have a look.
Sadly, Whitley Bay looks as though its heyday is behind it. All the big hotels I saw were boarded up, and a large number of the guest houses were up for sale, it probably didn’t help that as I was wandering around I had to keep finding shelter as another downpour passed through.
Disappointed with the coast, I headed back into town, through another downpour and back to the hotel to get a bite to eat. By the time I had finished it had stopped raining and the skies were blue again, so I headed out for a wander from the hotel.
Just across the road from the hotel is the Millennium bridge (or blinking eye bridge), so I had a wander over that taking in the multitude of other bridges that span the Tyne in central Newcastle. The other side of the bridge and I was in Gateshead so I had a wander up from the riverside into the town centre. From there, as I had an all day ticket for the Metro, I hopped on one headed for Sunderland to have a look around there.
Within five minutes of leaving Sunderland station I had already see two people nearly having a fight and several pools of vomit on the street, it could just be I caught the place at a bad time, but I decided it was probably best not to do a lot of sightseeing so I headed back, quickly, on the next Metro back to Newcastle. From the central station I wandered down to the river side and had a stroll along the quayside back to the hotel taking in the bridges at night, before heading to my bed for a good nights sleep.
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I did a full circuit of the tour, before continuing on to Souter Lighthouse down the coast to have a look around that.
After the lighthouse I wandered back up the coast to Marsden Bay to have a look around the grotto which had been blasted out of the cliffs, and turned into a pub and restaurant, then it was back onto the bus and up to the Roman remains at Arbeia just above South Shields.
Having looked around the site, I wandered back towards the river to catch the ferry back across, hoping that I would beat the massive black clouds that were gathering, I did, but only just and I still got a little damp.
From the shelter of the ferry waiting room I watched a particularly spectacular downpour work its way out to sea, and then, with impeccable timing, a very damp load of passengers disembarked the inbound ferry.
Back in North Shields I headed back to the Metro station and round one stop to Tynemouth to take in the Castle and Priory that I had failed to do the previous evening.
Then it was back to the hotel for a bit to eat, and an early-ish night.
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First stop of the morning was Chesters Roman fort and bathhouse, then onto Housesteads set dramatically on a ridge. From Housesteads it was back to Hexham on the bus and a look around the town, and a spot of lunch, before catching the train one stop to Corbridge and the Roman site there.
After looking around Corbridge it was back to the station and back to Hexham and then onto the last AD122 of the day, the one that goes back to Newcastle.
By the time I got back into Newcastle it was already gone six, but with clear blue skies I decided to head on out to one of Gatesheads most famous sites, though it’s only just over ten years old, and most people think it’s in Newcastle.
Anthony Gormley’s Angel of the North statue stands on a hillside overlooking the A1 as it approaches Gateshead and has become an unofficial shorthand for the whole North East (in the same way as the Houses of Parliament or a Red Double-Decker are short hand for London). Up close it was smaller that I thought it would be, though you don’t have the effect of seeing it on a hilltop, when you are on top of the same hill.
Having taken in the statue it was back to Gateshead metro station and I realised good timing to head out to the coast to take some pictures of Tynemouth castle and priory in the evening twilight.
I took quite a few photos and then started to wander along the coast a bit to take some more pictures. Part way along I stopped to watch the stunning sight of the moon rising, appearing to come up from underneath the North Sea.
I carried on walking as I watched it, and managed to completely miss all the signs for the Metro station that I was heading for Cullercoats, and instead found myself back in Whitley Bay, with the time fast approaching 10:30, so I wandered back to the metro station and caught a train back to the hotel. I managed to grab some stuff from the Tesco’s just behind the hotel with minutes to spare before it closed, and then headed for bed.
No sooner had my head hit the pillow then I was up again as the fire alarm had been set off. The whole hotel evacuated, I did a naughty and quickly got dressed but was still in the middle of the main bulk of evacuees. It turned out, 20 cold minutes later, after the fire brigade had been and gone, that a guest had not believed the signs about sensitive smoke alarms and “this is a no-smoking hotel” and had lit up in their room. Needles to say, there were not continuing their stay in the Travelodge.
So, nearly 40 minutes after I had started going to bed, I finally got to bed.
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I headed out into town to Central Station to pick up the city sightseeing tour of Newcastle Gateshead. I did one complete circuit and continued round on the second circuit to the bus stop right by the hotel (which, if I had bothered to check I would have found this morning saving myself the hefty walk up hill!). I wasn’t going to the hotel, instead I was just in time to watch one of the most impressive sights in Newcastle Gateshead, the sight of the millennium bridge tilting up to allow a ship to pass underneath.
Having watched the bridge perform its magic, I crossed over it and went into the Baltic Mill. Formerly a flower mill today it is the regions premier modern arts complex and the centre piece of the regeneration of this part of Gateshead. Having looked around the mill, and taken in the views from the roof top terrace, I wandered the short distance along the quayside to the regions premier music venue the Gateshead Sage.
From the sage it was a short walk back across the High Bridge to the New Castle, the building that gave the city its name. After looking around the castle, and grabbing a quick bite to eat, I hopped on a train out to Prudhoe to take in the castle there.
From Prudhoe it was back to Newcastle and the final stops of the day at the Anglican Cathedral of St Nicholas and the Black Gate, former gatehouse of the castle, now separated from it by the railway line.
I headed back to the hotel for some well earned rest, and some dinner.
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At the imaginatively titled Wallsend, the Wall finally meets the Tyne, and it’s final fort, Segadunum. I had a long look round both the museum and the fort site before heading back into town for some lunch.
With just a couple of hours left before I had to catch the train I took in a couple of the big free museums in the city. First off was the Great North Museum, and from there it was a quick hop on the Metro over to the Discovery museum.
I had lost track of time and only part way round the Discovery museum the tannoy went off to announce that the museum would be closing shortly, so I didn’t get to see all of it.
From the museum I wandered over to the Catholic Cathedral to have a look around, but that to had closed, in fact it appeared that all the sights in Newcastle close at five, so I headed back to the station to collect my luggage and have a bite to eat before catching my train home.
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Finally through security, I popped into WHSmiths for a guide book and Dixons for some batteries. I was going to wander up and look at getting some lunch, but as I went past the departures screens I noticed, that despite it still being 50 minutes until my flight was due to leave, it had a gate number and a “Go to Gate” message, so I grabbed a sandwich and munched it on the short walk to the gate.
I didn’t know what was happening, straight through the airport at speed, the closest gate to the terminal building with a plane already on stand, and only a couple of minutes later boarding. I knew it couldn’t last, and it didn’t. We sat there for about 20 minutes whilst ground crew came in and out of the plane. Then there was an announcement to see if four people were on the plane. They weren’t but their bags were safely stowed in the hold, so we had to wait for them to be located and off-loaded before we finally pushed back around 20 minutes late.
An uneventful, if slightly bumpy, flight later we touched down at Malpensa airport. I was through quite quickly and taking my life in my hand dashed across the road to catch the inter-terminal bus round to the station in Terminal 1.
As I walked through the door I spotted that I had three minutes until the train departed. I grabbed a ticket from the office and leapt onto the train with seconds to spare. 45 minutes later I was in the city centre, trying to find the correct tram stop to get to the hotel.
I finally got to the hotel, it was quite a bit further out of the city centre than I was expecting, checked in and then headed back into the city.
I had a wander around the Cathedral area, and the Victor Emmanuel Gallery (think shopping centre, and then realise that that label doesn’t do it justice). After a short wander I grabbed a bite to eat, and after a pretty large dinner (to make up for the small lunch), I waddled away from the restaurant.
I had a quick wander around a bit more, before heading back to the tram stop and the journey back to the hotel.
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Two years ago in Florence I benefited from European Heritage Weekend, when every museum and gallery was free. Last year in Venice, by a pure fluke of picking the same weekend (last one in September), I found a large number of attractions free. I had looked on the internet and couldn’t find any mention of European Heritage Weekend for this year, so I didn’t know what to expect when I got to the five museums in the castle.
As to whether it was European Heritage Weekend, or just the staff couldn’t be bothered to take money, all the museums were free, which suited me just fine.
Having taken in all of the attractions of the castle, I had a wander around the surrounding parkland, including stopping for a rather late lunch. I then wandered back towards the Cathedral to pick up the Metro (as my feet were feeling tired, I couldn’t be bothered to walk the half mile to my next stop!) out to a couple of the more spectacular churches in the area.
First up was San Lorenzo alle Colonne, one of the oldest churches in Western Europe dating back to the 4th Century, from there it was a bit of a hike over to Sant’Ambrogio. After looking around the churches I caught the metro back into the city centre and out to the spectacular central station.
The main reason was to check the times of trains to Bergamo for tomorrow, and to get a ticket in advance, but the station itself was worth the visit. It’s a vast and highly elaborate building (if you ignore the fascist undertones of who had it made so spectacular). I caught the tram round from the station, in the North Eastern part of the city, to the Naviglio Grande in the South West of the city. The canal was once a major part of the city’s port. The network of canals were so efficient that Milan, despite being a very long way from the sea, was at one point the 13th most important port in the country (and remember this is a country with a massive coastline along both sides of the country).
By the time I had finished looking around it was starting to get dark, so I headed back to the hotel to drop my stuff off and freshening up, before heading back out to take some pictures of the castle and night, and to grab a bite to eat.
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The reason for the early start was so that I could get out to Bergamo, part way between Milan and Verona, and the choices of train, that I had found out about, were either 9am or 11am (it was only after getting to Bergamo that I found out that there were more trains from a different Milan station!) So, at a little after 10am I found myself stepping off of the train at Bergamo station and heading for the bus up to the old town.
The city is really two cities in one. The old town, medieval in structure, perched precariously on the top of the hill, surrounded by it’s Venetian walls, and the new town down in the valley beneath it. All the main attractions are, naturally, located in the old town at the top of the hill, hence the lazy approach and catching the bus all the way to the top (or I could have walked to the Funicular station and caught that up, but as the bus was there...)
From the bus stop I wandered a bit further up hill, thanks to the help of the city’s other Funicular railway, to the remains of the castle at San Vigilio. After taking in the views I came back down on the Funicular, and had a long wander around the old city centre, taking in many of the main sights including the bell tower, remembrance garden and castle ruins and a couple of the city museums.
I then caught the Funicular and bus (well it was there when I got off the funicular, I wasn’t going to let it go to waste) back to the station to pick up the open-top sight seeing tour of the city. Having done a circuit and a bit I got off back at the main entrance into the old town and had a bit more of a wander around, taking in the Cathedral and the even larger and more impressive Santa Maria Maggiore.
I stopped for a late afternoon drink and snack in the main square before it was time to wander back to the open-top tour stop for the bus back to the station. I could have taken the normal bus, but as all of these were heaving, and the tour bus was almost empty, and I had paid for it, it seemed a shame to let it go to waste.
In the end I had a 40 minute wait for any train back to Milan, and opted to go back a different (and at this point I also discovered cheaper!) way. I arrived back at the Porta Garibaldi station so caught the metro the couple of stops round to central station to grab a quick bite to eat, before catching the trolley bus and tram back to the hotel for some decent sleep.
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This being a Monday there was very little in the way of attractions actually open, so I decided to do a circuit of each of the two routes the tour offered. Only Milan’s traffic got in the way.
By the time I finally go to the starting point at the castle it was already 11:15, but that wasn’t a problem, the tour wasn’t due out to 11:30. 11:30 came and went, as did 11:45. Finally some 25 minutes late the bus pulled in from the first tour of the morning which had obviously taken quite a bit longer than the 90 minutes allocated.
There were patches of bad traffic, and you could see where it had gotten held up on its first journey, but with the driver going at quite a bit more than the normal sedate speed for a tour, we made it back to the Castle only 10 minutes behind schedule, and by the time we got back round to the Cathedral again, the bus was almost on time.
By now it was early afternoon, and I decided to take a break from the tour (having now been round Route B fully once and half way round again to get back to the Cathedral) and headed into the Cathedral to have a look around.
Having taken in the sites inside the cathedral I took the lift to the roof to take in the stunning views both of the Cathedral itself and of Milan from it.
Then it was time to come back down to earth, take the tour bus round on route A for a circuit and a bit back past the Cathedral to the castle.
After getting back to the castle I had a wander round to the station for the train to the airport to check what times the trains were, and where the luggage lockers were. Unfortunately, I found that the luggage lockers were all out of service (and looked like they had been out of service for some time), so instead I wandered over to the central station to check there. Thankfully they did have a left luggage service, so I knew that I could leave my stuff there, and if needed take the bus from there out to the airport.
Having sorted out the plans for tomorrow, I wandered back to the centre of town for a bit to eat, before heading back to the hotel to pack and get a good nights sleep.
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The church, originally part of a monastery, is quite spectacular, but the main reason people visit is for the painting in the old refectory of the monastery. In fact so many people want to visit, and so fragile is the work, that you have to book months in advance to get a chance to see it. The work is “The Last Supper” by Leonardo Da Vinci, and when I arrived the tickets had sold out until November.
Thankfully, I had booked online at the end of June, but even then had only just got a ticket for a reasonable slot. My visit wasn’t due until 13:15, but I needed to pick the ticket up in advance, and I wanted to have a look at the rest of the church (and more importantly, as I needed to get back to the station and then the airport quite quickly after the visit), find out the easiest way of getting there and back.
I had a good look around the church, and then with nearly two hours before my ticket time, had a bit of a wander around the area of the old, now vanished, canal near the Garibaldi station.
Having taken a look around, and stopped for a quick lunch, I headed back to Santa Maria for my turn to have a look at the Last Supper. Getting into the refectory is a slow process, as they put you through a number of air tight, and gradually cooling, rooms to ensure that the humidity in the room is not affected by lots of people coming straight in from a hot square outside.
You go in as part of a party of 25, no more than this is allowed in another attempt to keep the damage to the painting to a minimum, the main problem being that Leonardo used the wrong type of paints and the wrong technique, so that the painting was already degrading within a decade of it’s painting.
After taking in the painting you exit, as you would in any good museum, via the gift shop, and back out to the square in front of the church.
Then it was time to head for the station to pick up my luggage and then get out to the airport. I could have wandered back across town to the north station and catch the train back to terminal 1 and then the inter-terminal bus to terminal 2, but as the express coach to Terminal 2 leaves from outside the station I thought I would catch that.
I made the mistake of sitting at the front, and after about 10 minutes of the journey was convinced that I wasn’t going to make it to the airport. We had already been involved in several near misses, and were currently tail-gating a cement lorry down the autostrada at over 100Km/H.
We did make it to the airport in one piece, but as a sign of the driving, when the luggage doors opened a lot of the bags fell out as they had been moved around so much! I grabbed my bag, joined a queue for checkin and started the journey back home.
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I set of extra early to make sure that I didn’t get caught up in snow chaos, and consequently found myself at Stansted Airport with three hours to spare, although I needed nearly 45 minutes to get through security, so it was probably a good thing.
Through security and the news looked pretty grim. The Air Berlin flights to Cologne and Dusseldorf were all either “Indefinitely Delayed” or Cancelled, and the Hannover flight that should have left at two in the afternoon was currently estimating a departure closer to 7pm.
As a precaution, in case I was massively early, I had booked myself into the Business lounge at Stansted, so I headed there to take in the free food and drink until either my flight left, or they kicked me out of the airport and into a hotel.
There was one other man in the lounge, he’d been there since lunchtime, trying to get back to Dusseldorf, but the airport was closed, and they couldn’t say when a flight would leave. I felt quite guilty when, 90 minutes later, and bang on time, my flight was announced for boarding.
Just over two hours, and an uneventful flight later, we touched down in Nuremberg, the airport covered in snow, but thankfully the runway still open. Baggage reclaim, customs and a quick U-Bahn ride into town and I found myself at the hotel. After an initial panic because they couldn’t find my booking on the system (the guy was convinced I’d said my surname was Brown!), I checked in and headed to my bed.
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I had a long wander around the Documents Centre and then followed the signed walk around the Third Reich’s parade grounds. Some of the most infamous pieces of propaganda were filmed here and it’s slightly weird to wander through the now slowly decaying remains of what was once supposed to be the “Reich to last a thousand years”.
By the time I got back into the city centre it was already mid-afternoon, and I was starting to think about a late lunch. I got off of the tram and after a couple of minutes wandering found myself at the Hauptmarkt where the Christmas market was taking place, so I grabbed some food from there, before heading off up the hill to the imperial palace.
I spent quite a bit of time up at the palace, going on a guided tour of the apartments as well as climbing one of the towers for stunning views over the city, made more stunning by the snow on the roofs.
By the time I left the castle it was already dark so I wandered back to the hotel and dropped some of my stuff off before heading back out to the Christmas market to do some final Christmas shopping.
I staggered back to the hotel, more weighed down by the amount of sausages I had consumed (and gluhwein drunk) than the presents, and turned in for a good nights sleep.
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First stops were a couple of the city churches, the Lorenzkirche, the Frauenkirch and the St Sebalduskirche, though the first one I decided to give a miss as a massive school party were entering as I arrived and I thought it would probably be a little busy inside.
After these I walked round to the Statmuseum Fembohaus to have a look around both the house and take in the “MultiVision Expereince” Noricama.
I had a wander back through the Christmas market, stopping for a late lunch, before finding myself back at the Hauptbahnhof. From there I had a wander around the edge of some of the remains of the city walls back round to the castle.
By the time I had reached the castle it was getting dark so I headed back through the city centre to the hotel to have a quick rest before heading back out again for some further “wandering” around the Christmas market (and in no way do I mean excessive gluhwein consumption!)
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I had a long wander around the city centre taking in the sights, before climbing up to what I thought was the Cathedral, it looked impressive enough to be it. Instead it turned out to be the Frauenkirche, so after looking around that I had to come back down the hill and climb up a different one to get to the Cathedral.
The Domplatz is an impressive site, with the cathedral on one side and the imperial palace on the other. I kind of got distracted by the palace, so went and had a look around that before heading back over to the Cathedral for a look around.
I wandered back through the town, taking in Kliene Venedig (Little Venice) and the Old Town Hall before it was time to head back to the station to get the train back to Nuremberg.
Unfortunately, the snow of the previous few days was still playing havoc with the German trains. My train arrived on time, but then had to wait in Bamburg station for the delayed Inter City service from the Wernemunde (I think on the very north coast) to Munich. To be fair to it, a train that had covered the best part of 1,000KM was only 55 minutes late, but it did have to add a delay onto mine, which got a little later all the way along the line, and so it was gone 3:30 when I got back into the Hauptbahnhof.
I had originally planned to wander back up to the Christmas markets for a final Gluhwein and Bratwurst, but a quick calculation made it obvious that I could, but I would then be removing any safety margin for getting to the airport. Normally this wouldn’t have given me any cause for concern in Germany, but on the past few days I didn’t want to risk it, so instead, I wandered down to the left luggage lockers, picked up my stuff and headed back to the airport and my flight home.
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On time we pulled into Holyhead, and with the final thing I saw before we pulled into the station being the hotel it was a pretty quick transfer from the train to my room.
Having checked-in and dropped all my stuff off I went for a wander around the town. To be brutally honest there is not much in Holyhead, especially not in January, apart from the small church built in the remains of a Roman shore fort.
Having quickly exhausted the town centre I went for a little wander along the sea front down towards the breakwater and the country park, arriving at the same time as the setting sun was breaking through the clouds by the side of Holyhead Mountain.
According to the guide books their is a leisurely walk up from the country park to the ruins of a roman fort on the summit of the mountain, but even I a self-confessed city boy, know that you don’t start walking up the side of a mountain just as the sun is starting to set. However, it did give me an idea for things to do on Saturday morning before my 14:30 train.
I had a wander back towards the town, taking the new pedestrian bridge into the port/station complex and popping into a supermarket to pick up some things for breakfast (the hotel didn’t have a restaurant so breakfast was either an overpriced muesli bar and a bowl of cornflakes, or whatever I could get in Lidl at 6pm on a Tuesday night). Having stocked up on both dinner and breakfast I headed back to the hotel for an early night.
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First stop of the morning was the longest one, not in terms of time, but name. Llanfair PG, or its fuller name Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll, or its very full Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. It’s even longer if you translate it out of the Welsh into English becoming: “St Marys Church in the hollow of the white hazel near to the rapid whirlpool of Llantysilio of the Red Cave”. Having taken in the excessively long station name and the information boards in the tourist information centre I headed out to the edge of town to the Marquess of Anglesey’s Column to have a climb up the 115 steps to its viewing platform.
Even on a damp and drizzly day like today the views were still stunning. The two bridges over the Menai Straits, Thomas Telford’s Menai Suspension Bridge and Robert Stephenson’s Britannia Bridge, are both spectacular feats of engineering by themselves. And behind them, rising into the clouds, the peaks of Snowdonia complete the vistas.
Having climbed back down to earth I caught the bus on into Bangor for a spot of late lunch before catching another bus back out to the town of Beaumaris.
There are castles, there are castles and then there is the castle at Beaumaris. You can start down the mental checklist: Moat, yes; Round towers on each corner, yes; Drawbridge, yes. But to the normal “classic castle” you can add that the outer wall and towers hides an inner set of walls and towers which are the actual castle, and then you have to chuck in the stunning backdrop of the Menai straits and the snow-capped mountains of Snowdonia (when they appeared from behind the blanket of cloud that was hovering around the peaks).
Having looked around the castle and the town it was time to catch the bus back towards Bangor. I hopped off the bus in Porthaethwy to take in the views of and from Telford’s Menai Suspension Bridge, walking across it to also get the stunning views of the rival Britannia Bridge.
On the other side I got back on the next bus and continued on back into Bangor. I had a quick wander around the town and went to have a look inside the Cathedral, only to find it all locked up. By now it was heading towards 4, and I knew I didn’t have that much daylight left so if I wanted to enjoy the, lengthy, bus journey back, I needed to get the 4pm service.
On the way out in the morning I had caught the X4 bus, which I though for an express route went quite a bit around the houses. I was wrong; the 4/4A bus I caught back went an even more circuitous route and took a good 20 minutes longer to get back to Holyhead. It was only when we a large Stena Line ferry and the Lidl appeared in view that I realised we were actually back in Holyhead.
I grabbed some dinner from the Co-Op in the centre of town and headed back to the hotel for an early night.
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From the station I had a short walk along a section of the city walls to the castle (well, why go along the pavement when you can go above). After taking in the castle and the rest of the city walls, I hopped on the bus down to the next major town down the coast, Llandudno.
I had thought that this much out of season absolutely nothing would be open, and for the most part I was correct. However, one thing, the coach tour around the Great Orm on Marine Drive, was running so I took that.
Finishing the tour I had a wander down the almost deserted pier. It was at this point that I remembered that whilst it was sunny, it was still the middle of January, and the wind that was coming off the sea was biting. I decided I needed to warm up, so I went for a bus ride, this time retracing my steps back from Llandudno through Conwy to Bangor. The bus runs along the coast, and the views are spectacular, well worth the trip by themselves.
I got off at Bangor station and caught the train back to Colwyn Bay. From the station I walked the short distance down to the sea front. To be kind to Colwyn Bay it was at sunset, there was a bit of a breeze and it was off-season, but the sight of the semi-derelict pier did make me feel that the place was a little bleak.
I walked along the Prom for a while before heading back up to the station and catching the train back round to Llandudno where I went for some dinner in one of the many Fish and Chip shops that line the main street.
Having filled up I caught the train back to Llandudno Junction just in time to miss the train back to Holyhead. I had nearly 50 minutes to wait for the next train, so I took the opportunity to walk the short distance from the station into Conwy and take some evening photos of the floodlit castle.
I headed back to the station and with about 5 minutes to spare made the train back to Holyhead. By the time I got back to the hotel I was really in need of the bed.
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These were particularly noticeable as the train went past RAF Valley, with the runways and taxiways holding a few foot of mist above them, it was quirt eerie. Not quite as spectacular though as the scene as we crossed the Menai Straits. There the mist was filling the straits, but stopped below the level of the bridges, so you could see the bridge, clear air then the mist, but not the water.
The train pulled into Bangor a minute or so early so I was able to make the earlier bus to Caernarfon, and arrived at the castle about 10 minutes after it had opened, in fact it was so early that in some places the custodians were still opening up doors as I got to them!
Having taken in the castle, and a bit of a wander around the town it was time for an afternoon sightseeing tour by public transport. First off was the bus up along the edge of Snowdonia to Porthmadog. In the original plan I had about 10 minutes to make the connection in Porthmadog, but the bus was late and it stopped further from the train station than I was expecting so I had to walk very quickly. As I was still about 400 yards from the station the level crossing barriers came down and I knew I was going to have to really rush if I was going to make the train (which I wanted to as there is only one every two hours!) Thankfully, I made it, just, and only because the guard was at the end of the train nearest the road. If she had been at the other end I wouldn’t have made it as she had already closed all the rest of the doors when I ran up.
Collapsed into a seat I took in the stunning views as the train continued on its journey along the northern edge of Cardigan Bay. Cardigan Bay, if you look at the map of Wales, is basically the whole of the West coast. The train runs right along the edge of the shore for part of the way offering stunning views down the coast. I got off at the end of the line at Pwllheli (pronounced Poothl-heli, though speaking to a number of people not even other Welsh speakers can pronounce it the way the locals do!), and had a wander down to the beach. Whilst Pwllheli isn’t at the very end of the Llyn (the peninsular that forms the north sweep of Cardigan bay) it is the largest town on it, and does have some of the stunning beaches that the area is renowned for.
I walked the short distance from the centre of town out to the beach and after having climbed down through the dunes (on the laid out and signposted path in case you were worried I was destroying sand dunes) I sat on the empty beach for a while taking in the stunning surroundings, clear air and relaxing sound of the waves breaking.
From Pwllheli I caught the bus back along the coast a bit to the town of Cricieth and had a look around the ruins of it’s cliff-top castle, then it was back on the bus to Pwllehli for the final part of the journey direct to Caernarfon along the coast road, hugging the space of land on the north of the Llyn between Snowdonia and the sea of Caernarfon bay. As the bus ran towards Caernarfon the sun slowly dipped into the Irish Sea.
I arrived back into Caernarfon a little after 5, with the last of the light starting to go, but with enough twilight left to get some pictures of the Menai Straits at sunset, and then once the twilight had faded, some night shots of Caernarfon castle.
Then it was back to the bus stop, the bus back to Bangor and then the train back to Holyhead and some well earned dinner.
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I had a long walk around the park, and along a part of the costal walk before it was time to head back towards the hotel to pack my stuff and head for the train home.
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Thankfully the rest of my journey was utterly uneventful and the train pulled into Coventry on time an hour later. I walked the half mile across the city centre to the hotel to check in and dump my stuff.
From the hotel I walked the short distance (very short given that I had a view of it from my room) to the Cathedral. In fact there are two Cathedrals in Coventry. The Old Cathedral remains, captured in time, as it was after the November 1940 blitz which saw it reduced to a shell. Next door the modern Cathedral stands as a testament to the fighting spirit of the people of Coventry and to the ideas of a brave, modern late 20th century that the architects thought the rebuilding of Coventry would be the dawn of.
The main tower of the Old Cathedral is still standing and now houses both the tourist information centre and access to the best view in the city. I climbed the 180 or so steps to the top and what greeted me was surprising.
I had thought that virtually the whole of Coventry had been destroyed by the Nazi bombing raids, and yes there were large tracks of rebuilt city, but there were also large numbers of buildings that clearly pre-date the 20th century dotted around the place.
Having taken in the city from it’s highest point I descended back to the ruins of the old cathedral and had a look around before heading over to the new cathedral. Unfortunatly the new cathedral was had a service taking place and was closed to tourists. Just opposite the cathedral I spotted a museum, so with time to spare I thought I would have a look around
A long time later I emerged from the Herbert museum thoughrly impressed. By now it was getting dark so I wandered back over to the hotel to drop my camera and bag off and then walked back to the station to pick up pre-booked tickets for Tuesday and to purchase a ticket to Stratford-upon-Avon for the following day.
With that done I wandered back into the centre of town and grabbed some dinner before heading back for an early nights sleep
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Overnight there had been a small amount of snow. Unfortunately, this is the UK and any quantity of snow is enough to cause travel disruption so it was with some trepidation I walked to the station. I was right to, instead of leaving at 08:37 my train finally pulled out a minute or so before 9am. I had had 22 minutes to make my connection in Birmingham, I now had zero minutes. Might just have been doable if it was cross platforms, but the connection was from a different station a five minute walk away so I knew I was going to have a long wait for the same train I would have caught if I had gotten up an hour later!
I arrived in Birmingham and walked between New Street and Moor Street stations. It was the first time I have ever been to Moor Street station and I was really surprised how picturesque it was for a major city centre station. Unlike New Street which is completely covered in and, quite frankly, a horrible station, Moor Street was really pleasant, with a particularly nice little cafe on the concourse where I wiled away a large part of my hour wait for the train to Stratford.
Thankfully the rest of my journey turned out to be smooth and I arrived in Stratford just after 11am. I headed into the centre of town, and first stop was the bus tour. I did a full circuit of the route, partly to get my bearings on the city, but also to avoid the large coach loads of tour parties which were hitting the museums as I arrived.
Stratford is a pretty little town, but its reason for being so popular is based on its most famous son. One William Shakespeare, born and brought up in the town, it’s also the place he retired to and is now buried in the parish church. Given his impact on English Literature it’s no real surprise that this small Warwickshire town is one of the most visited places in the UK outside of London. It does however mean that even on a snowy Sunday in mid February it was still very busy with tourists.
Having done a circuit on the tour bus I walked down to Shakespeare’s birthplace house and museum, and then on to the Nash House and New Place. From there it was back onto the tour bus out to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage before heading back into town to visit Holy Trinity Church and a visit to Shakespeare’s grave.
By now I was pretty well Shakespeare’d out so I headed back to the station to get the train back to Birmingham and then onto Coventry.
After dropping my stuff off at the hotel I had a wander around the city centre taking some night photos of the Cathedral before heading off for some dinner and then the comfort of my bed.
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I spent a long time wandering around the site, taking in all the buildings, but unfortunately not the Elizabethan garden as the paths were sheet ice.
I caught the bus back into Coventry and after a quick stop for lunch popped into the Coventry Transport museum.
Having looked around the museum I headed over to the Priory visitors centre. The Priory was the original cathedral in the city, but was destroyed during the dissolution of the monasteries. Today there are only small remnants of the priory still visible, but they are set out in a small garden.
After looking around the priory I wandered down to Spon Street. The buildings here are not in their original locations, but they were all moved here to create an area that captured what the old Coventry looked like before the bulk of the city was destroyed in the Blitz.
I had a bit more of a wander around the city, but by now it was getting dark, so I headed back to the hotel for some dinner.
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From New Street I caught the train out to Bournville. This is a small village on the outskirts of Birmingham city centre. The village was built by the owners of the local factory. The fact that factory is Cadbury’s make it one of the most famous in the country.
You can’t look around the actual factory (it’s still a working factory churning out millions of kilos of chocolate a week, so they need to keep it a little clean!), but the Cadbury World centre gives you an overview of the history of chocolate and the company.
Going around the visitors centre takes a couple of hours (and longer if you need to sit down after the sugar rush of all the chocolate you get handed as you go round), and ends in the largest Cadbury’s shop in the world.
After visiting the centre I wandered back to the station in what was starting to become heavy snow. By the time I arrived back in Birmingham I had nearly two hours before my train, but with my bag weighed down with half a tonne of chocolate gifts, the snow had developed into very heavy snow with accompanying biting winds.
Given the weather and the weight on my back I decided to just camp out in a coffee shop watching the snow fall before heading back to the station to catch the train home.
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It wasn’t just the checkin that was empty, I walked straight through security only stopping to take my jacket off and unpack the laptop. Walking out into the departures lounge it looked very busy, but that was only because one full Emirates flight to Dubai was running spectacularly (four hours when I arrived, and getting worse) late and most of those passengers were crowded around the information desk at the entrance to the lounge.
I had a brief stop for lunch and was going to settle down with a book for a while when my flight appeared with a gate number, so I wandered over in that direction (knowing that the plaintive calls of “please be aware this gate is a 15 minute walk from the terminal building” are actually pretty true!). I arrived at the gate and got into the “couldn’t be assed to pay any extra and don’t need special assistance queue”. When we were called forward 10 minutes later, a full 40 minutes before the flight was due to depart, it was only at that point that I looked round and discovered a very, very long queue had formed behind me!
A packed, but uneventful flight later, we arrived in Malaga, making one of the more spectacular approaches to an airport. The whole way down there had been thick cloud. That cloud had finally cleared about 30 miles before Malaga revealing the mountains. The plane came down, over the mountains, over the city, out into the Mediterranean, turned so the setting sun was beaming straight in through my window and then in a straight line from over the sea to the centre line of the runway.
Malaga airport appears to be almost as large as Gatwick, and with only two border police on for a full easyJet flight there was quite a queue to get through immigration. In fact the queue was so long that by the time I got down to the baggage reclaim belt it had stopped running and my bag was just sitting on it waiting to be collected.
There are many ways of getting from the airport to the city; I had chosen the train, which meant a five minute walk through a car park and over a dual carriageway to the station. The guidebooks all said that you should catch the train through the central station to the next one on at the end of the line as this is the closest to the city centre. Unfortunately, these guide books (written as they were in 2007) didn’t have the information that the line between the main station and the centre of the city has been closed since 2008 for “upgrade works” that don’t appear to have completed yet. I hadn’t realised this until I tried to purchase a ticket! I caught the train to the central station and then, having only looked on the map at how to get to the hotel from the end station, caught a taxi to the hotel. Of course I didn’t realise that the centre of Malaga is currently being rebuilt and all the roads are up, that it’s got enough one-way streets and one-way systems to make a British town planner wet themselves, and I’d also forgotten that it was now just before 7pm on a Friday evening, and consequently the journey took some time.
Having checked into the hotel I dumped my stuff and went for a wander around the old town for a while taking in some of the sites including the Cathedral and the bottom of the castle (it was closed for the evening so I wasn’t going to start walking up a massive big hill!). I spent a good two hours wandering around before I suddenly remembered this is exactly what I had done last year in Granada and got myself caught out by the Andalucíans having dinner earlier than in other parts of Spain and finding at 10pm that there was nowhere to eat. So just before 9, I found a nice looking restaurant and had dinner. By the time I had finished dinner I went for a bit more of a wander and discovered that my earlier assumptions about Andalucian’s having dinner early was wrong, it’s just the people of Granada that keep shorter hours as Malaga’s restaurants were still piling in the customers at 10pm.
I wandered back to the hotel and, after dispatching a mosquito that was buzzing round the room with a particularly heavy guide book, turned in for the night.
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Fist stop of the morning was the cathedral (having dodged the heather sellers). From there I walked the short distance to the remains of the Roman Theatre. These lay undiscovered at the foot of the Alcazaba until the start of the 20th century and have slowly been uncovered over the years. Unfortunately, when I visited, the site was being renovated with new walkways and a new museum being created, so all you could do was walk into the top part of the amphitheatre and look down onto the ruins.
As I was at the Alcazaba I went in there to have a look around next, taking in all the buildings and courtyards. Whilst nowhere near as spectacular as the Alhambra in Granada, it benefited from having very few visitors wandering around.
After taking in the Alcazaba my legs were aching quite a bit, there is a fair amount of steep slopes with uneven paths and the pigeon stepping you have to adopt to get around safely makes for hard work on the muscles, so I decided to take the weight off of my feet for a while by catching the open-top sightseeing bus.
By the time the bus got round to the top of the Gibralfaro my legs were feeling better so I got off and had a look around the ruins here. Inside of the site there is not much to see, but the views from the walkways that go around the top of the walls are spectacular. Having taken in all the sites I got back on the sightseeing bus and did a complete circuit to take in the tour. Arriving back at the Gibralfaro around 90 minutes later.
I had a bit of a wander around the outside of the Gibralfaro taking in a couple of the viewing platforms over the city, before walking back down the (very) steep path back into the city centre.
By the time I got back to the centre it was starting to get dark, so I wandered back to the hotel to drop by bag off, and then headed back out for dinner.
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I had a long wander around the gardens taking in all the sites, but managed to get my timing completely wrong. I emerged with, what I though, was 5 minutes to spare before the next bus. Unfortunately, I had managed to pick the one hour in the day where there was no bus, so I was faced with either an hours wait for the next bus, or to walk back towards the city the way the bus had come, and pick up the more regular city bus.
In the end the walk didn’t take too long, which was thankful as it wasn’t particularly pleasant, walking along side a very fast road on only a thinly marked track, I was quite glad when I finally got to the bus stop.
The bus whisked me back into town and I was having a wander through the old town towards the Picasso museum trying to decide whether to go directly to the museum, or to have a late lunch, when I felt a spot of rain. Thinking fast I found a nearby restaurant and took a seat under cover for a late lunch just moments before the skies absolutely opened. The rain poured down for nearly 40 minutes, during which time I had a particularly pleasant meal! It was only as the rain was abating that I realised I would have been soaked if I had stayed up at the botanical gardens!
After lunch I walked over to the Picasso museum to have a look around and from there had a long wander around the rest of the old town taking in some of the squares and lanes I hadn’t previously been down.
I quickly popped back to the hotel to freshen up and drop off my bag before heading back out again for a wander down to the sea front, reaching the beach just as the final bits of light were fading. With the light finally gone I made my way back into the old town and grabbed a bite to eat.
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As it was a Monday nearly all the attractions were closed, so it was going to be a quiet day for doing things. Instead I was going to concentrate on topping up the tan as the weather had improved substantially with the thermometers crossing the 20 degree mark, and the sky almost completely clear of clouds.
I did a circuit of the tour route and then headed back up to the castle. Unlike the rest of the attractions in the city, the castle is actually open on a Monday, though not many people appeared to know, so it was very much quieter than it had been on Saturday, and consequently I was able to take more of it in, in peace.
I had a long wander around the site, with even better views that on Saturday with the heavy rain having cleared some of the haze from the sky. It was so clear that I could actually make out the botanical gardens where I had been yesterday.
I stopped for lunch in the castle and so, by the time I boarded the bus, there wasn’t that much time left before I had to head out towards the airport.
I got off the bus at the cathedral and then walked back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and head to the bus stop for the airport.
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Thankfully, that was the only hiccup in what was then a very smooth journey up to Liverpool.
After checking into the hotel and dropping all my stuff off I headed out for a wander around the city. I had a long wander down to the docks and had a look around the Albert docks and around Pier Head where the most famous buildings of Liverpool are located.
Just as the sun was starting to set I headed over to the Wheel of Liverpool to take in the sunset from a slightly different angle.
By the time I made it back to the ground it was gone nine, so I quickly grabbed a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel.
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I headed out into the warm spring sun and wandered down to the tourist information centre to purchase a Liverpool Visitors Card which would cover me for most of my transport and attraction requirements for the next couple of days, and then I carried on walking down to the Albert Dock to pick up the City Experience Open-Top sightseeing tour.
I did a full circuit of the tour, and then wandered the short distance down the riverside to the Pier Head to hop on the Mersey Ferry cruise. Back on dry land I caught the bus back up into the city centre for a spot of late lunch before getting the sightseeing bus back up to the Anglican Cathedral.
Having taken in the Anglican Cathedral and the stunning views from its tower, I walked the 800 yards or so down Hope Street to the other Cathedral, the Metropolitan Catholic one. I doubt there are any other streets in the world which can boast a Cathedral at each end!
Two Cathedrals down, it was time to attend to, if you believe the hype of the tourist office, the real first religion of Liverpool is (and no, it wasn’t as I thought, football), and technically, they did claim they were bigger than Jesus – The Beatles, and more specifically, the Beatles story based in Albert Dock.
With the three main denominations ticked off, Anglican, Roman Catholic and Beatle, there was just time to catch the last Yellow Duckmarine of the afternoon. The Duckmarine, like similar services in Dublin and London, uses old World War II amphibious trucks (DWKS, pronounced ducks) converted to tourism duties to take tours round by both road and river (or in Liverpool’s case, dock)
By the time I disembarked it was rapidly approaching dinner time, and as I tried to decide where to go I suddenly remembered seeing a sign for a Yo! Sushi the previous evening, so I headed back into the big Liverpool One shopping development in search of food.
Yo! were running a special deal, all plates one (cheap) price, so needless to say I stuffed my face. Some time later I staggered out of the restaurant, my distended stomach hanging over the top of my jeans, so I took that as a hint to have a bit of a longer walk round the city centre before heading back to the hotel to sleep off all that rice and fish.
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Unfortunately, when I got there I discovered that they weren’t taking individual visitors today as they had group bookings, despite their website saying they were open for individual tours! So instead I walked the short distance, thankfully back down hill, to Edge Hill station, through a particularly unpleasant bit of Liverpool.
From Edge Hill I brought a one day ticket and decided, as it was quite sunny, to head out to the coast and have a look at what the Merseyside seaside looked like.
First stop was Southport on the Liverpool side of the Mersey, with its long pier stretching out into what can only be described as mud flats. At no point did I actually see the sea, there was something that could have been sea in the distance, but I wasn’t 100% certain. The pier had seen better days, and it took almost as long to catch the tram up the pier back to the land end as it did to walk down in the first place.
Slightly disappointed with Southport I wandered back to the station to catch the train back into Liverpool. Having arrived back in Liverpool I caught the bus through the Mersey Tunnel to New Brighton on the Wirral side of the Mersey.
I didn’t stay long, if I thought Southport was a little down at heals then it was nothing compared to New Brighton. I think Southport might have had a heyday that it could look back on with rose tinted spectacles. I don’t think New Brighton ever had a heyday.
I caught the train back from New Brighton into town and went for an earlyish dinner down by the Albert Dock, thankful for the first time today that I had made a good decision, as I was the last person who was able to wander into the restaurant and get a seat straight away, before a massive queue started to build up.
After dinner I had a longer wander around the city centre, taking in the key sites around the Cavern club before heading back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.
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First off, above the Mersey Ferry booking office, was a second part of the Beatles Story museum, a “Fab 4D” cartoon show. From there it was a quick hop round to the Albert Dock and the Maritime and International Slavery museums.
Then onto the bus and back towards the station to finish off my time in Liverpool with a look around the World museum, a museum whose main task appears to be covering every topic that is not covered by the couple of specialist museums in the city (so it has everything from Egyptians to the space race via botany, biology and an aquarium).
By now it was time to head back to the station, collect my stuff, and make my way up the coast from Merseyside to the Fylde, the next block of land up from Merseyside that culminates in the UK’s home of seaside kitsch, Blackpool. My expectations weren’t high...
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Having checked in and dropped off my stuff in my room I headed out towards the sea front. I got to the shore just as a tram went sailing past so rather than taking a tram up the prom I wandered up all the way to the North Pier.
I had a stroll down the near deserted North pier, looking to the world like a pier whose best times are behind it.
When I got back to the land end I was just in time to catch a tram, which I did up to Cleveleys, where they were terminating due to vandalism to the power lines further north, so I caught the tram back, through the centre and down to the South Pier.
By now I had seen most of what Blackpool had to offer, so I got on a bus back north to Fleetwood to see what was there.
I was more impressed with Fleetwood than I was with Blackpool, with the sand dunes and the beautiful scenery of the Lake District across Morecambe Bay.
I hopped back on the bus into Blackpool and grabbed a late bite to eat in the hotel before heading to bed, trying to think of how I was going to fill another day and a half.
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Head out from Blackpool and head into the Lake District instead.
For an area which is not that far away, the journey took quite some time, with nearly an hours wait in Preston. By the time I arrived into Windermere, it was already the early afternoon. I hopped on the open top bus down to the edge of the lake at Bowness, also the main harbour for all the lake cruises that ply up and down Lake Windermere.
I hopped on a cruise heading back up the lake, past Windermere and on to Ambleside. At Ambleside I arrived just in time to hop onto the open-top bus round to Grasmere.
I had quite a long wander around Grasmere, which is a really pretty little village, and also the last resting place of William Wordsworth.
From Grasmere it was back on the bus down to Bowness, and a look around there, before it was time to start heading back to Blackpool.
During the day I had been following the developing chaos being caused by the eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano, but also the news that it should generate some spectacular sunsets, so I thought there might be some good to come from staying in Blackpool.
However, by the time I got back in, the clouds had rolled in and whilst there was a definite pink tinge to the bottom of them, there was no spectacular sunset, so I grabbed a late dinner and went to bed.
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The tower complex models itself as a full day attraction, offering restaurants, an aquarium, a “Jurassic adventure” and more amusement arcades than anyone can have change for.
The main reasons for visiting, though, are to see the spectacular ballroom, and to take the lift to the top of the tower for the views out over the coast. I very quickly made my way through the other attractions and headed for the top of the tower. And it’s true, from the top the views are spectacular, looking up and down the coast. Unfortunately, it was starting to get a little hazy so you couldn’t see massively far (I could just about make out what I thought was Southport pier, and in the opposite direction what could have been the hills of the lake district, though it could also have been clouds!). Having taken in the views I caught the lift back down.
By the time I had taken in all the attractions of the tower it was only just midday, and I still had quite some time to kill, so I caught the bus south, past the south pier and beyond the pleasure beach. Where I got off was at Starr Gate, the end of the tram line, if it hadn’t been ripped up to be modernised.
Here I found an almost deserted beach, with beautiful sand dunes and relaxing sound of the sea gently lapping at the shore.
It had taken me nearly two days, but I had found a nice part of Blackpool, but now it was time to start the journey home.
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I’d looked on the map and it was difficult to tell how far it was from the S-Bahn station to the hotel, but it was one stop on the tram. Given there was one due within a couple of minutes I thought I would wait for the tram just in case. The tram arrived, I got on, it took off and then less than 20 seconds later slowed down for my tram stop. Getting out of the tram I could clearly see my hotel just on the other side of the road. I could also quite clearly see the S-Bahn station not that far behind me!
I checked my stuff in and then, after freshening up, headed back out into the city.
I had a long wander around the Altstadt (old town) and then walked along the Rhine terrace out towards the media harbour and the TV tower. By the time I got to the TV tower it was starting to get quite late, so I headed back towards the Hauptbahnhof to indulge in my dirty little habit of Bratwurst.
Having sated my craving for German sausage I headed back to the hotel to get a good nights sleep.
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Thankfully breakfast was served until 11:30, possibly because they have experienced a number of their guests getting rather too good a nights sleep and not waking up until gone 10am.
By the time I finally got my stuff together and got out of the hotel it was already gone 11. I walked the, now obviously, short distance to the S-Bahn station, and then was slightly shocked to find out that I had a near 20 minute wait for the train. This appeared to be a little odd for a Saturday, for the trains, one stop from the Hauptbahnhof to be so infrequent.
It was only after I had walked from the Hauptbahnhof to the Tourist Information and gone to purchase a Dusseldorf welcome card that I found out, for the very helpful man in the office. Today is May 1st (that I knew), it’s May Day (that I knew), It’s a public holiday and most things are closed (that I didn’t know). It transpires that the Germans have their May Day public holiday on May Day, none of this shifting it to the following Monday (unlike us workshy Brits!) Consequently all the public transport was running to a Sunday timetable. Just to add further confusion Sunday was going to be the Dusseldorf marathon, so none of the guided tours would run, and there would be substantial disruption to Public Transport. This is what happens when you just pick a destination at random without reading up on it in advance.
From the tourist office I caught the tram out to the TV tower to take in the views. It took some time to work out which way I was looking, partly due to the massive curves in the Rhine as it snakes its way through this part of the country, and partly because I had forgotten that Dusseldorf is mostly on the Eastern bank of the Rhine, and thought that it was like Cologne and mostly on the West. Realising this simple mistake also helped resolve the issues in my mind with why the river appeared to be flowing up stream through Dusseldorf!
From the TV tower I caught the tram back to the station to pick up the city sightseeing tour. 90 minutes later I was back at the station and taking a tip from the tour caught the U-Bahn north from the city centre to the Suburb of Kaiserswerth to have a look around the remains of the palace there.
By the time I got back to the centre of Dusseldorf there was just time to hot foot it back down to the river to catch the last Rhine Sightseeing Cruise of the day. Arriving back just gone 7pm it was time to find somewhere to get dinner, and then after another bit of a wander around the Altstadt to head back to the hotel for another good nights sleep.
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I decided, before heading into the Palace to have a long wander around the grounds, and I’m glad I did as not only were they spectacular, but within minutes of going into the palace the good weather of the previous days broke and a light, penetrating drizzle broke. Quite a pain when you are walking between palace buildings, and from the palace to the tram stop, absolutely soaking if I had still been out in the park and had had to walk back to the palace.
By the time I got back into the centre of Dusseldorf (using the cunning method of catching the tram further south to a train station, then taking the train into the city centre and then using the U-Bahn, which was still working) the Marathon had been going on for over 4 hours and by the 40Km mark on the Königsalle I was expecting to see the fun runners. It appears though that in Germany marathons (unlike their British counterparts) are still run as serious sporting endeavours, rather than an excuse for attempting to kill yourself by running for 26 miles in a half tonne rhino costume.
I had a long wander round the city centre, taking advantage of virtually every road being closed to all transport including the trams, and their not being that many runners so you can easily cross the road between them.
I walked for quite a while, conscious that I appeared to be going backwards around the course as after around 30 minutes I saw a couple of very pained looking runners limping along, followed by a car with flashing lights, an ambulance, a bus and then a fleet of street sweepers cleaning up behind themselves, I think I had just found the back markers!
However, it looked like the city was going to remain closed for some time still to come, so I decided to go a bit further up the Rhine to it’s next major city, on the junction with the Ruhr, Duisburg. I went for the pretty ride, catching the U-Bahn all the way through the open countryside, taking a lot longer than the train, but seeing much more.
This was thankful, as there wasn’t much to see in Duisburg. It’s the kind of place (like Croydon) that only the town fathers could love. I had a bit of a wander around and managed to find a couple of nice buildings, but I was conscious of the very, very heavy clouds that were piling up above. Just a few yards from an underground tram stop the skies got very dark, the wind really picked up and I decided that it would be a good time to be making a hasty walk to cover.
Just a couple of meters short of shelter the skies absolutely opened. I managed to get undercover merely slightly damp, but there were people who had only been a few meters behind me who were absolutely soaked by the time they got to cover. Given the weather was deteriorating, and it was now rapidly heading for six, I caught the tram back to the Hauptbahnhof and caught the train back to Dusseldorf. It was still tipping it down when the train stopped at the Airport, but by the time we pulled into Dusseldorf a few minutes later the skies were clearing and if you hadn’t seen it you wouldn’t have believed it had been raining a few minutes earlier (apart from the massive puddles everywhere.)
I went for a bite to eat and a late wander around the city centre before heading back to the hotel to pack.
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First stop, to the north of the city centre was the aptly named Nordpark. The park also houses the city’s aquarium, which was open, but I decided not to go in as it’s quite small and an unfeasibly large number of children were going in as I arrived so I thought it might be a little noisy and crowded inside!
Instead I had a long wander around the park. It’s divided up into a number of areas with a small formal lake surrounded by statues, then a large fountain and a some blocks of planting. At the back of the site is a small Japanese Garden.
Having looked around the Nordpark I hopped back onto the U-Bahn and then a tram over to Schloß Jägerhof and the start of the Hofgarten.
The Hofgarten runs through the centre of the city, with formal tree lined boulevards near the palace merging into formal gardens and then large open spaces before finally ending up in the Museum quarter the other side of the Oberkassel bridge.
By the time I got to the Oberkassel bridge there was about 30 minutes before I needed to start heading back so I wandered over the bridge to the other side and had a brief look around Oberkassel before hopping back on the U-Bahn, heading back to the station to pick up my luggage and then out to the airport.
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I walked the very short distance from the bus station to the hotel (which was effectively above the bus station) and checked in.
Having dumped my stuff I headed out for a long wander around the city centre taking in the main sights.
I had no particular direction to follow, other than knowing at some point I needed to pop into the station to purchase a rover for the remainder of my stay, so after quite a long wander I found myself up by the station.
Having purchased my ticket I then walked back along the riverside all the way round the outside of the city centre before finally returning to the Cathedral.
I had intended on visiting the Cathedral, as the guide books all said that it was open until 7pm. However, as I arrived at a little after 6 the doors were being closed in line with the large signs by the entrance, which looked pretty elderly, advertising the cathedral as being open until 6pm each day, so I’m not quite certain where the guide book got their information from.
I wandered for a bit longer through town before stopping for an early dinner, back to the hotel to freshen up, and then back out at dusk to have a wander round in the twilight.
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After breakfast I had a bit more of a wander around the city centre until I reached the Cathedral. I had a good look around the cathedral and the visitors centre. By the time I left it was just in time to catch the open-top sightseeing tour around the city.
I did one full circuit back to the cathedral and then stayed on for the short distance on to the station. At the station I hopped on the train out to Hoveton and Wroxham, in the heart of the broads.
I had a good look around the town before heading back beyond the national rail station to the station of the Bure Valley railway, a small narrow-gauge line running to the market town of Aylsham.
A quick spot of sightseeing in Aylsham, then back on the train to Hoveton, back on the normal train to Norwich, and across the platform onto the train to Ely.
At Ely I was just in time to get into the Cathedral and have a look around before it shut for the evening, which was thankful as the rain was starting to pick up. By the time I left the cathedral the skies were beginning to clear and it was turning into a lovely evening.
I had a wander down to the river side and walked along the river bank for a while before it was time to head back to the station and the train back into Norwich for dinner.
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From there I hopped on the CoastHopper bus service along the length of the coast round to Hunstanton.
Having taken in Hunstanton I caught the bus back to Wells-next-the-sea and wandered out to the sea (which is nowhere near Wells!)
Then it was back on the bus to Sheringham and then on to Cromer for a look around there.
I wandered back to the station in Cromer to catch the train back to Norwich; unfortunately I mistimed it and ended up catching the train on its way out to Sheringham and back again!
By the time I got back to Norwich I was knackered so I grabbed a quite bite to eat and then headed back to the hotel.
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I walked from the train station down to the sea front, and was just in time to catch the first open-top tour of the morning round the town. I did a full circuit and then came back into the town centre to start making my way through the museums.
I walked down some of the little lanes (called Rows in Great Yarmouth) to the South Quay and started working my way down the quay on an attraction crawl. First up was the Lydia Eva steam boat, then onto the Elizabethan house and the Greyfriars’ Cloisters ruins. Next up were the Row 111 and Merchants houses before finally stopping at the Time and Tide museum in the former Herring smoking plant.
Despite being closed for nearly 30 years the Herring plant still had a pretty impressive fishy smell, showing how much it had permeated the brickwork of the building, and on a hot sunny day, it was coming out just that little bit extra.
From the museum I jumped back on the bus and caught it out to Scroby Sands at the top end of the beach to have a wander through the dunes, before catching the land train back into the centre of town and stopping for a very late lunch.
After lunch I hopped on a bus out to the ruins of a former Roman Fort just north of Great Yarmouth in Caister. Having looked round the ruins it was back onto the bus into town and a wander around the church yard of the big church, St Nicholas. I had intended on looking around inside, but I arrived 15 minutes after they had locked up for the day.
Then it was time to wander back to the station to catch the train back to Norwich, dinner and well-earned rest.
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First stop of the morning was the Castle. I had a good look around the museums in the castle and then went on one of the tours up onto the castle battlements to take in the stunning views of the city centre.
Having taken in the castle I grabbed a quick spot of early lunch, as I didn’t think I would be able to get anything on the train, and then wandered my way through the city to the Catholic Cathedral to have a look around that.
After the cathedral it was time to wander back to the hotel, collect my stuff and head for the station and the train back to London.
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With everything safely stowed in my room I headed back out and caught the U-Bahn down to Bad Godesberg. I’d been here many years ago, the first time I’d come to Cologne, but hadn’t really looked around the place that much.
From the station I wandered down the Kilometre or so to the riverside where there are spectacular views of one of the prettier bits of the Rhine, with the hills and vineyards climbing on the opposite bank.
I caught the car ferry across the river to have a quick wander around the other side and to get some stunning views of the sun setting behind the Rhine. Realising that it was now starting to get quite late I caught the ferry back over, walked back to the station and just made the train back to Bonn. I arrived a couple of minutes before 10, and managed to grab the last, and slightly greasy, bratwurst from the kiosk in the station before they closed (but that was still preferable to the McIndigestion, which would have been the only other option).
I had a long wander through the city centre in the fading light, before heading back to the hotel.
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First stop of the morning was Königswinter on the opposite side of the Rhine to Bonn, but effectively now a suburb of the city. It marks the start of the area where most of the Riesling wine production comes from. The town itself has centuries of history most noticeably evident in the ruins of a medieval castle that overlook the town from the top of the Drachenfels hill.
There are two ways to get to the castle, you can make the 3KM or so climb up the very steep path that winds its way up through the hills and offering stunning views over the river, or alternatively you can catch the Drachenfelsbahn rack railway which goes virtually the same route, but requires minimal effort on your part. I’ll let you guess which one I took.
The views from the restaurant and viewing platform at the top station are spectacular with clear views across to Bad Godesberg, up the river towards the bend beyond Unkle and back towards Bonn. There was a slight haze forming so I think I could make out the spire of Cologne Cathedral, but it could easily have been a much closer electricity pylon.
I walked up the final short, but very steep, climb to the ruins of the castle and had a look around them before walking back down towards the middle station and the Schloß Drachenburg. I arrived just minutes after the English language tour had set off, and there wasn’t another one for a couple of hours. As the next German tour was also 90 minutes away I decided I probably couldn’t be bothered to look around so I continued my walk down hill stopping for a latish lunch part way down and then diverting off to visit the Reptile Zoo, Dragons Tunnel and the Nibelungenhalle.
Walking round a reptile zoo I had assumed that the substantial heat was coming from all the lamps keeping the creatures warm, I hadn’t realised that actually it was just the genuine heat of the day, and more importantly also the humidity. As I continued to wander down the hill back into Königswinter itself and proceeded to drink quite rapidly the remaining two litres of water I had left with me. By the time I got back down into the town it was almost unbearable. Up on the hill there had been a bit of the breeze to take the edge off of the humidity, but down in the town it was what I think can be described as like being in a pressure cooker.
Thankfully away from the centre of the town, down by the river, it was a little cooler, with a bit of a breeze, so I brought another couple of litres of water and in the end spent about two hours just sitting underneath a tree, in the shade, watching the traffic on the Rhine go past
It’s amazing how in the heat, not doing anything makes you so tired (of course the hiking down a 3KM path on a 1 in 5 incline during the hottest part of the day might have had something to do with that), so after a while I caught the tram back into Bonn and onto the hotel to get a change of clothes and to drop off all the empties. In the end I actually had a bit of a nap in the hotel (as the very nice chambermaid had switched on the air con onto arctic when she tided the room and consequently it was absolutely gorgeous inside.
Refreshed I wandered back out of the hotel around 8pm to look for dinner. I had thought that by now (and lulled into a false sense of security by the air con in the room) it might be a little cooler, but the wall of hot air that hit me as I stepped out of the hotel pointed to it being a sticky night.
I caught the tram into the city centre, had a brief wander round and stopped for a small bit to eat (the one advantage of it being hot is that you don’t want to eat so much!), and then caught the bus back to the hotel for some more sleep.
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First stop of the morning was the Haus der Geschichte der Budesreupublik Deutschland (the House of the History of the Federal Republic of Germany) at catchy name for what is a really interesting museum. From there it was a short U-Bahn ride back one stop to Museum König and a look around there, before heading back into the city in search of more water as I was almost out and starting to feel parched.
I stopped for a very light lunch before having a wander around the Munster, and then with the heat now really building headed down to the river.
There was no way I could do any more wandering around with the heat as high as it was, so it felt like the ideal time to take a cruise down the Rhine and I arrived at the landing stage a couple of minutes before the 2pm departure to Linz was due to set off.
The journey was very pretty with beautiful scenery all the way down to Linz. Heading against the flow of the Rhine it took nearly two and a half hours to make the journey (bang to the timetabled times all the way along). The return, if I had wanted to do it, would only take 90 minutes, which goes some way to explain the power of the Rhine in this area.
I had a brief wander around the town centre before heading off to the station to play timetable roulette. I couldn’t decide whether to catch the train back into Bonn, or carry on upstream to Koblenz. I decided that whatever the first train was I’d go in that direction. I got to the station five minutes after the Bonn train, but five minutes before the one to Koblenz, so Koblenz it was.
The train runs parallel to the river most of the way along, but beyond Linz the scenery, in places, gets a little more ‘industrial’ so I was rather glad that I hadn’t bothered getting the boat any further on. The final part of the journey is an impressive sweep around the back of town. The train stops on the East bank of the Rhine opposite the ‘Deutsche Ecke’ monument which marks the confluence of the Rhine and the Mosel. It then carries on a bit further, climbs up into the hills above the city, through a tunnel and then out onto a bridge across the Rhine, before turning back to head into the Hauptbahnhof.
I caught the bus from the station down to the Deutsche Ecke. When I came here last time everything was closed, the same was true today. The first time was because it was a cold, foggy, Thursday just before Christmas and everything was locked up for the winter. Today it was because it was just gone six, I had lost track of the time a bit!
I tried to have a wander down to the Ecke, but it’s in the process of being re-landscaped so access was pretty impossible and most of the area was a building site, so instead I had a bit of a wander through the old town before stopping for a bite to eat. I was purposefully timing this. Germany were playing in the Third place playoff at the World Cup final that evening and I wanted to time getting the train to match so it would be nice a quiet. It meant that I managed to get a fair choice of restaurants as all were set up with outside seating, but nobody had yet turned up as there was still nearly two hours till the match, so I was able to have a very pleasant light meal before wandering back to the station and catching an almost empty train back to Bonn, and from there a very empty bus back to the hotel.
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With almost perfect timing I arrived just moments after the museum opened so for some time was the only visitor going round. From the Deutsche-Museum I headed over to the Stadt Museum and managed to repeat the same trick arriving just as it opened.
From there it was a short walk over to the Egyptian museum where I was probably the second visitor of the day as there was one person leaving as I arrived, and nobody else inside.
I had a quick look around the museum and then hopped back on the U-Bahn south to Bad Godesberg to have a look around the castle ruins.
From Bad Godesberg it was back north to the Hauptbahnhof and over to the LandesMuseum, the last museum of the day.
In the end I didn’t have enough time to do the LandesMuseum justice as I had to head back to the station to pick up my luggage and head back to the airport and my flight home.
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A very swift journey through the airport left me concerned that I was going to end up with a pretty long wait for the bus into town, but it appeared that the bus company puts on an extra service to meet the twice weekly London flights as there was one parked up outside the terminal building waiting as I emerged from it.
A 40 minute, rain-lashed journey later we arrived in Tórshavn, with the rain starting to abate. It was a short walk to the hotel and after checking in and dropping my stuff off in the room I headed out for a wander around the town.
I had no particular route in mind, and in the end ambled over a large area, although given the size of the Capital City on several occasions I managed to end up wandering back past places I had already been past.
I stopped for a bite to eat in a restaurant in the centre of town, before having a bit more of a wander and then heading back to the hotel for an early night as I had to get up early the following morning.
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Having been collected for the tour and the remainder of our tour party (of two) we headed out of Tórshavn on our tour north.
We had several stops along the way, including an extended stop in Klaksvíg before we finally reached the most northerly point on the tour at Viðareiði.
We then worked our way back down through the islands, stopping for a very pleasant and filling Fish and Chip lunch just after 2pm. With lots more photo-stops along the way, we finally arrived back into Tórshavn at just after 6. I had a wander around the town, including through the parliament area.
The town was really starting to buzz in preparation for the national day celebrations over the following two days, including having all the roads closed and open-air concerts taking place on what, until yesterday evening, were the city’s streets.
I headed back to the hotel for a decent night’s sleep ready for the noisy day ahead.
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The guide book said it was an easy 7KM, 2 hour walk, which it was, from the start of the trail a 40 minute hike up out of Tórshavn! The walk climbs quickly into the hills and from the top there were stunning views out over the city and the surrounding islands. After a short walk through the middle of the hills, the vista changes to the islands to the South and West of the Faroes.
Most of the way the signage (small cairns of pilled stones) is excellent, but towards the end they start to run out and I ended up having a scramble down a very slippery path (not certain if it was the actual path or if I had picked up a sheep trail) down to the road.
I walked the further kilometre into the village centre and went to visit the ruins of Magnus Cathedral, the largest medieval building on the islands, and the first cathedral that they started to build (albeit that they stopped work at the reformation and never finished the job). Unfortunately, it is currently under scaffolding for heavy repair work so there wasn’t much to see.
I had intended on walking back the same way, but the final scramble down had put me off the idea, so instead I took the longer (by another 4KM) but less rocky route back along the road, which skirts along the west coast for a while before suddenly shooting across the middle of the island to Tórshavn.
By the time I got back into town my feet were aching quite a bit, so I stopped for a while to sit and watch the finals of the Rowing competition which is one of the highlights of the eve of national day.
I wandered back to the hotel and had a shower and a change of clothes (the scramble down had made quite a mess of me trousers) before wandering back out for a bite to eat and to take in more of the celebrations for national day, then with the sun still shining and a clear blue sky, I headed back to the hotel to try and rest my weary feet and legs.
I had a couple of hours rest before getting back up again just before midnight to wander down, with virtually everyone else in Tórshavn to watch the fireworks display. The display went on for a good ten minutes or so after which it was definitely time for bed.
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I had intended on taking in the couple of museums that were in the city, but they were closed, as was the tourist information centre. In fact the only things that were open were the park (which is very nice and I had a long wander around) and a couple of cafe’s (so I stopped and had a couple of cups of coffee.)
Whilst I was doing this the great and good of Faroese life were in the Cathedral celebrating a national day service and preparing for their precession to the parliament building (all 100 yards or so between the two buildings!). I finished my coffee and was able to catch both the end of the procession and the opening of parliament.
Whilst I can’t understand a word of Faroese, I was very impressed by the choir that were singing (unaccompanied) several traditional songs ending with what I assumed was either the national anthem or another major national song as most of the crowd were joining in.
Then the bulk of the national day celebrations were over, as was my time on the Faroes. I had a little bit of time to wander back round the harbours before returning to the hotel to collect my bags, then back to the bus station and the bus out to the airport...
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Having dumped my stuff I went for a late evening wander around the city centre starting over at Kongens Nytorv and the Nyhavn before wandering round to the palace.
As it was quite late, and I found myself by the bus stop for the bus back to the hotel and one was arriving (no honest it was), I caught the bus back to the hotel for a good night’s rest.
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After a large breakfast to make up for the lack of sleep I headed out to the station. My first stop for the day was to be Frederiksborg Slot in Hillerød. I got to the station and purchased my ticket only to find that there were engineering works and I had to get a rail replacement bus part of the way (I thought I was in Denmark not Britain!)
Thankfully everything worked and, although it took a little longer, I got to Hillerød just before midday and wandered down to the castle.
After having had a look around I decided, rather than trying to repeat the journey back I would go on to Helsingør (only about 20 minutes by train), have a look around the town there, and then head back into Copenhagen by direct train from there.
By the time I got back to Copenhagen the weather had pretty much cleared up for the evening, and after having had a wander around the town for a bit I headed over to Nyhavn to pick up one of the canal tours that run from there.
After the tour I then took the extended tour using one of the waterbuses that now run up and down the harbour and are included on the city tickets.
By the time I got back to Nyhavn it was getting late so I grabbed a bit to eat and then headed back to the hotel, hoping for a better night's sleep.
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The tour takes in most of the main sites of the city, though it only covers about 8KM of cycling in the three hours, so it’s hardly a workout.
Having completed the tour it was time to do a bit of exercise so I had a wander back through the city and over the water to Christianshavn to have a look around the Vor Frelsers Kirke. I’d had a bit of a look around it when I had visited in 2005, but that was in the winter and it’s key attraction, its spire, was closed.
You climb around 250 steps to the viewing platform at the base of the spire from where there are stunning views, but the views get even better if you are brave and climb the staircase that winds its way around the outside of the spire.
Having taken in the views I descended back down and then went for a wander through more of Christianshavn and along the edge of Christiania. After quite a long walk I found myself by the Opera House, so I decided to rest my feet by taking the boat up and then back down the river to take in the views from there.
Unfortunately, there boat didn’t appear to be keeping particularly good time for the timetable, and was heaving, so I had to sit inside nowhere near a window seat for most of the journey. I got off at Nyhavn and had a very late lunch/early dinner on the harbour side before wandering back through the town to the Rundetårn.
Having climbed that and taken in the views I decided, with the sun disappearing behind clouds and only about 40 minutes of light left, to catch the bus back to the hotel to rest my poor aching feet.
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Whilst Copenhagen airport is large and swish, the same couldn’t be said for the bus station that is terminal 1, domestic. It’s light and modern, but its also pretty small and lacking in facilities (four desk double as checkin, service and bag drop – albeit when I arrived there was nobody else around so that didn’t matter.)
Because it’s so small, it also meant I was massively too early and ended up sitting in departures for the best part of 90 minutes before we were called forward.
An uneventful 25 minute flight (I think one of the shortest I’ve ever been on, and a slight surprise given the train takes over 4 hours!) and I arrived in Aalborg.
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By the time I arrived in the city centre and walked to the hotel it was just after two. I knew that the hotel’s official policy was that you couldn’t check in before three, but I thought I would give it a chance and see if I could check in early. Not only did I manage to checkin, but the very nice lady on checkin changed my booking over to the special summer deal which meant I got breakfast thrown in for free and 90Kr knocked off the price of the room.
After dumping my stuff I went for a wander around town, mostly looking for somewhere to rent a bike from as the city is very flat and easy to get around. Sadly the bike hire shop was closed on a Sunday. Aalborg does run a city wide bike hire scheme where you release a bike from a stand for 20Kr in the same way you would a trolley at a supermarket and then get your 20Kr back when you drop it back off again. In a lengthy walk around town I came across plenty of empty stands but no bikes (interestingly I only saw three actual bikes being cycled, which makes me wonder where the rest of them had gotten to.) I did, though, stumble on the entrance to the ruins of the Franciscan Friary (the Gråbrødrekloster Museet), which are located underneath the city centre, so I popped down in the lift (the museum is free, but the only access is via the lift which charges per 250kilos, so a very light family can get in quite cheap!)
My wanderings took me out of the back to town, through the city cemetery to the North Jutland Art Museum. Whilst I’m not a massive fan of modern art, the guidebooks (which on this occasion had got it right) said it was an interesting place to visit, if only for the architecture of the buildings.
After having a look around I wandered up being the museum to the Aalborg tower, which sits on the hill above the museum overlooking the city centre, fjord and surrounding, very flat, countryside. The views on a clear day like today were excellent.
From the tower I wandered back down into town and had a long wander around the city centre, ending up in the Aalborghus Slot to have a look around the former city castle. Just outside the grounds were a selection of restaurants, so with the late evening sun still keeping the city warm I sat out for a bit to eat before heading back to the hotel.
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From there I cycled back into town stopping off on the way for several photo stops before heading for the churches in the city centre, the Budolfi Domkirke and the Vor Frue Kirke.
Then it was off over to the castle to visit the one part which I hadn’t been able to yesterday (as its only open 10:00-15:00), the dungeon.
By now, I had pretty much exhausted all there was to do in Aalborg on a Monday (all the rest of the museums are closed) so I decided to continue my Danish journey north. I cycled over to the station, parked my bike up and picked up the train to Frederickshavn. From there I changed trains and continued heading north to Skagen, the most northerly town in Denmark.
I had looked, before leaving Aalborg at what the cost of taking my bike on the train would have been and it was quite expensive, it would also have been an issue as the train was pretty full with bikes already.
So with one bike on hire parked up at the station in Aalborg, I hired another bike here in Skagen to help me see the place. Equipped with bike I continued to head north, all the way to the beach at Grenen. This is the point at which the Skagerrak, a part of the North Sea, and the Kattegat, the channel that leads to the Baltic meet in a crashing of waves and currents, or at least there would be a crashing of waves and currents if it wasn’t such a beautifully calm and clear day! The two seas just gently lapped at each other. I was quite surprised how orderly Denmark ends, in other countries the end is high sea cliffs crumbling into the waters, but here it’s a gentle slope down into the sea (I think it might be called fully accessible!)
From Grenen I cycled back through Skagen and south to the Buried Church. The town is surrounded by Sand dunes, and over time these have drifted, quite quickly at times, so that by the early 19th century the church had been almost swallowed up by the sand. The church elders flogged off the innards of the church and dismantled the main building, but left the distinctive tower still standing as it was an aid to shipping. Today the floor of the tower is several foot below the ground level, and the dunes are continuing to creep in on it.
Then it was time to head back to the station, drop off the second bike and head back to Aalborg where I picked up the first bike and headed back over to the hotel, via a quick twilight tour along the waterfront.
Exhausted from almost a whole day of cycling I headed for my bed and a good night’s sleep.
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Then it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and wander the sort distance back to the railway station and the train South to Århus.
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The hotel is right next to a number of sights so I ticked a couple of them off straight away in the Viking Museum and the Cathedral. There is nothing odd about the Cathedral, apart from it being the largest church in Denmark. The Viking museum, on the other hand, is a bit of an oddity being, as it is, in the basement of a bank. You have to go in, past the tellers and down a flight of stairs into an area where Viking age houses were found during an archaeological dig in the 60’s (I’m assuming when work was underway to build the bank that is now above them.)
From the Cathedral I walked the short distance to the Vor Frue Kirke (not to be confused with the Vor Frue Kirke in Aalborg or the Vor Frelsers Kirke in Copenhagen – I know I’m starting to get confused between them!) which is in fact three churches in one with a church in the crypt on the main church, and another chapel in the attached cloister, which itself is now a care home for the elderly.
From the Church I wandered back across town to the tourism office to pick up an Århus card and then wandered out to the Den Gamle By ethnographic museum to have a look around it. Unlike the similar examples in Helsinki, Oslo, Riga, Stockholm, Turku and Riga I’ve visited (I think it’s something about the Scandinavia/Baltic region!) this one focuses on the Urban rather than rural environment so the buildings are all from town settings and the aim is to try and create an idea of what life was like in a small town in the past.
Den Gamle By is also unique in continuing to expand having recently opened buildings from the early part of the 20th century and now working on a plan to create a small area that recreates early 1970’s Denmark for future generations (complete with reel to reel tape players!)
In the end I was looking round the outside of buildings as all the insides close at 6pm, so I took that as a hint it was probably time to head off (though you can wander around the outside of the buildings all the time) for a bite to eat, a bit more of a wander around town, and then bed.
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The museum is located about 10KM south of the city centre in a former palace and is most famous for the perfectly preserved body of the Grauballe Man which was discovered in a bog in the 1950’s. Today he takes pride of place in the centre of the museum.
The museum grounds hold a number of examples of different types of burial grounds such as barrow graves and passage graves and there is a pleasant (when it isn’t raining) 4KM walk around the grounds taking them all in. With a couple of judicious stops in dense wood I managed to avoid virtually all of the rain and made it back to the start point dry.
I caught the bus back into town and wandered round to the Occupation museum. After looking around there I had a wander through town and found myself in the very pleasant botanic gardens above Den Gamle By. I had a long walk through the gardens and eventually found myself right out the back of town with the skies closing in.
So, given I had a free travel ticket with the Århus card I jumped on the bus and stayed on the bus until the sudden shower had passed. Thankfully this coincided with the bus pulling up at a stop near the hotel so I was able to get off, wander back to the hotel and drop my stuff off before heading back out for dinner.
After dinner I had a bit of a wander along the banks of the Å. I wandered back through town and just as I was approaching the cathedral felt the first heavy spots of rain. I managed to scamper back to the hotel just in time, getting in a couple of seconds before another spectacular cloud burst.
As it was gone 9:30, and I’d had quite a good meal I thought it would be a good time to turn in for the night.
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There was a long list of museum that I was thinking of going to, so I thought I would start at the Art Gallery as that wouldn’t take too long and then I could see what was left after that.
In the end, the gallery was so good that I had to almost run round the last part of the exhibition so that I could get back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and catch the train.
The train left on time into a tremendous downpour. A little while after the skies cleared and as we entered the rolling countryside the skies became pretty clear. A quick change at Fredericia and I was on the train to Esbjerg.
At Esbjerg it was a quick change onto a bus down to the harbour where I checked into the ferry. I had thought that there might have been some facilities down there, but there weren’t just a couple of seats and a coffee machine. But as there was only a hour until boarding, and the buses were only every 20 minutes, I thought it was best to just stay put and read a book.
With typical Danish efficiency boarding started bang on time at 17:45 and less than a quarter of an hour later I was in my cabin. I had treated myself to the upgrade to Commodore De Luxe class so that I had a much more comfortable journey (and a free lounge with free snacks and drinks).
At 18:45 the ships horn sounded and we slowly pulled away from dock and from Denmark.
It’s a pretty uneventful journey to begin with, and after dinner I go for a wander around deck, which is when I notice that it is starting to get a little choppy. This proceeds to get quite a bit worse over the next 20 minutes or so, to the point where there are quite a few people either dashing to the side of the boat, or grabbing for the carefully placed bags that are in racks on the walls every hundred meters or so.
What is most surprising is that given how full I am, and given how much, as a Kid, I would get travel sick at the mere sight of a coach or a ferry, how well I felt.
So, just after 11, with a group of people outside being sick, I drew my curtains and went to bed.
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I took that as my invitation to go down for breakfast, and sure enough the restaurant was in the process of emptying.
Overnight the swell had calmed down and it was now pretty flat and calm. Then, just after 10am ships time, land appeared on the horizon, albeit Great Yarmouth. This was a bit surprising, as we weren’t due to dock for another three hours. I can’t remember how far it is from Great Yarmouth to Harwich, but I would have thought even with the pretty poor road network in that part of England you could do the journey around the coast in less than three hours, and we only had to go in a straight line!
But true to the timetable, it took three hours before, almost on the dot of 1pm ships time we landed at Harwich and I disembarked, walking across a time-zone into the terminal building so that I was at passport control 55 minutes before I had landed.
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When I visited Coventry at the start of the year I had brought an ‘all sights’ ticket from the Shakespeare birthplace trust which would give me unlimited access to all of the five sites for the whole year, for pretty much the same as paying individual entry fees at three sites, so at the time it appeared to be good value. Today it turned out to be even better value as it meant I could go back to the sites, and visit the one that was closed back in February, for free.
First stop, via the open-top tour bus was Mary Arden’s farm. Mary was Williams’ Grandmother. After having had a long look around the site I caught the bus back into town and went round to the Nash house where they were carrying out archaeological digs on the site of the house where Shakespeare died so there was much more to see than when I had been in February.
I had a bit of a wander around town and a refresh on the rest of the Shakespeare sites, though not being able to take much in as the sites were much busier in mid-August than they were in February!
Thankfully, I had checked on arrival the times of the buses back to Leamington so I had found out early that the last bus on a Sunday is just after half six, so made sure that I was back at the bus stop in time to catch the bus back.
By the time I had gotten back to Leamington everything had closed, which was a bit of a problem as I had been hoping to buy breakfast! I had a long wander around the town before grabbing a bit to eat and heading back to the hotel.
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We spent a long time looking around the castle, and then went for a late lunch in a very good nearby pub. My friend went on her way and I had the remainder of the afternoon to have a look around the town.
I was going to have a look at some of the museums, but Warwick appears to have more deeply integrated into Europe than other cities as all the museums were closed on Mondays. Instead I had a look around the large parish church and climbed up its tower for the views over the town and the castle.
By the time I got back to the station it was approaching five and as the next train back to Leamington wasn’t for some time so instead I headed into Birmingham for dinner.
After a very pleasant (and filling) dinner I headed back into Leamington and back to the hotel for an early night.
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I managed to time my visit almost perfectly and only had a couple of minutes to wait for the bus on into Stratford, where I changed onto exactly the same physical bus which has changed routes and headed out to the other main NT site round here, Coughton Court.
I spent quite a long time at Coughton and got back into Stratford a little after 3. I had been wondering what to do for the remainder of the afternoon. I’d been toying with catching the bus into Evesham to have a look around there, but in the end I decided to go on one of the Avon boat cruises that run from Stratford, and I’m glad I did. Not only was it a very interesting tour, it also meant that I was sitting inside a covered boat at the same time the massive storm that had been brewing for most of the afternoon broke. It would have coincided with about the same time I would have arrived in Evesham if I’d caught the bus!
The cruise got back to the landing stage almost exactly at the middle of the storm where it eased off a bit so I was able to dash from the boat to the lobby of the nearby hotel without getting that damp. Within seconds of getting under the shelter the main bulk of the storm hit, and the car park became a lake in seconds. People less than 100 meters away when the storm hit were absolutely soaked by the time they reached the lobby. By now I was very glad that I’d not gone to Evesham.
By the time the storm cleared there was just enough time to wander through the town to a Costa’s for a very late lunch (almost 5pm) before catching the bus back into Leamington.
After dropping my stuff off at the hotel I wandered back out and joined the evening free walking tour round the old part of the town. Bizarrely the tour ends in the lobby of the Travelodge so I took the opportunity to have a quick rest stop before heading back out for a light dinner then it was back to the hotel to finish off packing.
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First stop was a proper wander round the Jephson gardens which I had visited on the walking tour the previous evening, including taking in the glasshouse in the centre of the gardens.
From there it was a short walk across the river to the parish church of All Saints and then back over the road to the Pump Rooms which have now been converted into a museum, art gallery, cafe and library.
I had a look around the museum, which tells the history of the town, and the art gallery which houses some of the town’s art collection.
There was just time for a quick lunch before I headed back to the hotel, collected my stuff and wandered back to the station for the train home.
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The flight was even less time than expected, and rather than being quite late we ended up landing only 10 minutes behind our scheduled time. With a quick run through the airport, collecting a Torino card on the way, I made the train into town with a few minutes to spare that I would have caught if we had been on time.
At present the trains from the airport don’t go all the way into the city centre because of major works on the railway lines (so major that they don’t actually exist at present!), instead they terminate at a station on the outskirts of the city centre, Dora. Thankfully, given the weather was starting to look threatening; Dora is just a couple of hundred meters from my hotel, so it was a very quick walk from the station to the lobby.
I checked in and took my stuff up to my room, I was about to head out when the first heavy shower passed through. After 20 minutes it had stopped, and I, foolishly, thought that would probably be it. So I headed out of the hotel in a light drizzle over to the bus stop to catch the bus into town.
Sitting on the bus the weather deteriorated quite a bit and by the time I got to the city centre it was raining heavily and steadily.
Thankfully, a very large number of Turin’s streets have porticos along them, so I was able to wander around quite a bit of the town without actually getting wet.
I had a long wander around the city centre in the rain, before it started to ease off a little. I took this as a hint to catch the bus back to the hotel at this point as the bus stop didn’t have any shelter. Sure enough within a couple of minutes of getting on the bus the skies had opened again.
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I had a short wander around the Archaeological Park before heading over to look around the Cathedral, before visiting the museum in the Cathedral’s crypt
I had a long wander around the city centre, walking along the length of Via Po down to the river and across to the Gran Madre di Dio church on the opposite bank (though as there was a wedding going on at the time, I thought it was a bit rude to wander around the inside of the church)
I caught the bus back through the centre of town to the station at Porta Susa and grabbed a bite to eat there before heading over to the Museo Civico Pietro Micca.
The museum was very interesting, helped along by an almost personal guide as I was the only English visitor to the museum at that time. A visit includes a guided tour around the tunnels underneath the museum which date back to the early 18th century and were used to help defeat the French besieging the city as part of the Spanish war of Succession.
By the time I emerged from the tunnels I was blinking, partly due to the low light levels in the tunnels, but also because the sun had finally decided it wanted to shine, albeit in a hazy form. I took this as a hint to go out to the Basilica di Superga high on a hill overlooking the city for the views.
I caught the bus and tram over to the terminus of the Sissi-Superga rack railway and managed to catch the hourly train with a couple of minutes to spare. I got to the top station and wandered up to the Basilica taking in the views of the city, slightly spoiled by the haze and thin veil of pollution that appeared to be settled over it, though the low clouds helped to make the Alps stand out even more in the distance.
I took in the attractions that the Basilica had to offer before catching the train back down into town, getting back into the city centre just before dinner time.
I had a bit of a wander around the city centre having a look at a couple of restaurants before finally settling on a very pleasant one on Piazza San Carlo. After the very filling dinner I staggered over to the other side of the square to get a small Gelati before wandering back past the Royal Palace and the Cathedral to the bus stop to catch the bus back to the hotel.
By the time I arrived back I was feeling very full, and suddenly very tired, so at barely half nine I turned it for the night.
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After breakfast I headed into town to pick up the City Sightseeing tour bus. I went for two full circuits once on each side so as to take in all the views (although virtually everything worth seeing is on the Right hand side!)
From the bus I wandered over to the Mole Antonelliana to take in the views from the viewing platform. The journey up to the platform is a bit weird with the glass lift rising up the centre of the building without any shaft (other than a short one at the bottom to take it through the lower couple of floors and another short section to line it up with the doors at the top). Instead it just goes up and down on its wires, in much the same way as any lift would do, it just feels a little odd that there is no shaft, not even a glass one!
The views from the top were stunning, better than the previous days as the haze had completely cleared, so I was able to see more. Having taking in the views I caught the lift back down and had a look around the Cinema museum which is housed in the rest of the building.
After stopping for a late lunch I caught the City Sightseeing bus out a couple of stops to the Capuchin Monastery for the views from there, which are even more stunning as you can see the gaps in the Alps, and get the full view of the Mole Antonelliana. I walked back down into town and over to the Egyptian Museum.
I had a very long look around the museum, but still don’t think I did it justice. I wandered over to Piazza San Carlo for a pre-dinner drink, and then failed to go for dinner by catching the last City Sightseeing tour of the day, to take in the city at sunset.
Arriving back into the city centre I then went to have that post-pre-dinner-drink-dinner. With another stunning meal inside me I headed back to the bus stop to go back to the hotel.
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First stop, as it was advertised as being open was the Borgo Medievale, a mock up of a middle ages Piamontese village. Whilst the site was open on a Monday, the main thing worth visiting, the recreation of a castle in its centre, was closed!
After having a wander around what was open in Borgo Medievale I walked back into town along the banks of the Po.
I had a long wander round town, and a very pleasant lunch, before heading over to have a look at the archaeological park by the Cathedral.
There wasn’t that much to see there, but by now it was getting close to the time I needed to head over to the airport so I caught the bus back to the hotel, picked up my luggage and started the journey home.
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Having checked in and freshened up I wandered back out to have a look around town, and find somewhere to eat.
I had a relatively long wander around town, and found pretty much nothing, other than fast food shops, so in the end I wandered back to the Supermarket near the hotel and brought some dinner from there, before wandering back to the hotel to eat it there, before having an early night, hoping that there would be more to fill up the next five days than the first night had shown.
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Pretty much soaked I arrived at the station and brought my ticket north to Hartlepool. The journey takes you over the “original” railway, part of the Stockton to Darlington railway which kick started the whole idea of trains 180 years ago. With the rickety train bouncing all over the place on the decidedly bouncy line it would appear that not much has changed in 180 years round here.
Hartlepool is best know for it’s populations interesting way of dealing with Monkeys (the story goes that at the height of the Napoleonic wars a French ship was wrecked off the coast, the only survivor was a monkey dressed in a French uniform. As the people of Hartlepool had not seen a French man (or a monkey) before, the assumed it was a spy and hung it, hence they are know known as Monkey Hangers), and it’s “memorable” former MP Lord (did you bring the Garlic, cross and silver bullet) Mandleson.
What I wasn’t expecting was a pleasant small town centre which has obviously recently been heavily regenerated and the former docks converted into row upon row of (in-town-)out-of-town-shops. Next door to the vast retail site was the real reason for visiting, the historic docks.
I had a long wander around the docks taking in all the sights including the Museum of Hartlepool and the HMS Trincomalee whilst all the time the weather was slowly improving.
Having taken in the sights of Hartlepool I had a decision to make. Back into Middlesbrough, or continue north up the coast. In the end it was partly dictated by the fact that the next train North was sooner than the train south so I headed north towards Sunderland and Newcastle, and I’m glad I did as, once your past the eye sores of sites being demolished north of Hartlepool, the train runs along the coast, through some breathtaking scenery, made all the more impressive by the North Sea being quite “lively”. As the train went past the harbour at Seaham the sea was merrily crashing over the harbour walls churning the harbour up.
The journey up the coast is quite slow, but it doesn’t matter as for the vast part of it the countryside is interesting. Nearly an hour after leaving Hartlepool the train finally pulled onto the High Level Bridge and crossed over the Tyne into Newcastle.
By now it was heading rapidly towards early evening, so I decided to grab a very late lunch/early dinner in Newcastle and then make my way back. As I wandered over to a restaurant I saw a bus go past that made me realise that I didn’t have to go back the way I had come. First thing in the morning, before my train to Hartlepool, there had been a train going to Bishop Auckland, now going through Newcastle was the bus to the Angel of the North statue, which continues onto Bishop Auckland, I had a plan for the journey home, go back in a big loop through the County Durham countryside.
So, after dinner, I wandered back to the bus station and with perfect timing (for once) made it just before the bus was due to depart. It was an interesting journey, back through Low Fell, Chester-le-Street and the impressive entrance into Durham, with the sun just starting to disappear behind the spire of the cathedral. Shortly after leaving Durham the sun had fully gone, so the final part of the ride through the countryside to Bishop Auckland was in the twilight.
Of course, before setting out from Newcastle I had checked that there would be a train to catch when I got to Bishop Auckland, and there was, last one of the night! The bus arrived at about 25 minutes before the train, at which point I suddenly realised I didn’t actually know where the station was in Bishop Auckland, I’d kind of made the assumption that it would be in the town centre, but that’s not always the case and I had the nasty feeling I could have just caused myself some serious problems. Thankfully, there is pretty good signage in the town, and 20 minutes later I found myself standing at the station waiting for the train back, through Darlington and the other part of the oldest railway, to Middlesbrough and a very welcome bed.
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Two hours later the sky was still clear and looking crisp, but I felt it had probably got above freezing, so I got up and got ready to go out.
My first stop of the morning, a “short” walk from the city centre, actually turned out to be closer to 20 minutes, was the Dorman museum, effectively the town museum. Having had a look around the museum, I headed back towards the town centre and to MIMA. When I had booked to visit Middlesbrough, I hadn’t expected it to have a massive, modern, modern-art gallery. I don’t know why, virtually everywhere else does these days! I had a very pleasant lunch in the cafe before having a wander around the galleries.
The museum produces a very useful free map to the public art in Middlesbrough, which you can follow to visit the key piece, the largest piece of outside public art in the country – Temenos.
It forms the centre piece of the Middlehaven redevelopment of the old docks area north of the train station. Unfortunately, at the time of visiting the only other residents appear to be the Football stadium, what I suspect is the tax office which has my money in it (every time I have ever had to write to the tax man it’s always been to Middlesbrough) and Middlesbrough College. Everywhere else is the rubble of sites which have been cleared for redevelopment which doesn’t appear to be taking place. It’s possible when I visited that it was in the unfortunate break between all the demolition teams moving off site and the building teams moving on, but it was just such a wasteland, and the weeds were just so high, that I fear it might not have been quite that simple.
Having looked at Temenos, and realised that it looked almost exactly like the Anish Kapoor sculpture in the Tate Modern a few years back, just without the outer skin, I wandered back towards town, taking a quick detour to visit Teesside’s answer to the Eiffel Tower, the Empire State Building and the Brandenburg Gate.
The Transporter Bridge is the international shorthand for Middlesbrough, and it’s only one of two working transporter bridges left in the UK (the other one being in Newport, Gwent). The small museum next door to the bridge tells the story of its history, construction, how it works and lists some of the other examples around the world. Then it was time to take a quick trip across the Tees.
It’s a bizarre experience, the whole massive structure supports a gondolier that runs just a few feet above the water, taking 90 seconds or so to cross the river to the other bank, it is a bizarre cross between a ferry and a train, not feeling like either. Having crossed over I watched it cross back over before realising that actually there is nothing on this side of the river, so I had to wait the 10 minutes before it came back over, then caught it back to Middlesbrough.
I wandered back through town taking in the rest of the public art from the map I’d picked up at MIMA, but it couldn’t help to hide the fact that I had pretty much exhausted Middlesbrough of things to do on a Sunday that didn’t involve shopping or drinking, so I headed over to the cinema to take in an evening film, before grabbing some dinner stuff from a Tesco Express before heading back to the hotel for some more sleep.
Whilst I may have had the longest and deepest nights sleep ever in Hammerfest in January, I think Middlesbrough in October may be about to be the longest period of sustained long sleeps.
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The train journey in very pleasant running along the northern edge of the North Yorkshire Moors, but it can’t detract from the fact that it is quite slow, 90 minutes to do less than 30 miles! I arrived in Whitby just after midday and headed for my first stop, the Abbey.
Access to the Abbey is via a stiff climb up the 199 church steps (or if you’re being lazy, and have discovered this before you get to the top, the open-top bus service which does all the leg work for you!), from the top of which there were stunning views over the Yorkshire coast, made all the more impressive by the very rough nature of the sea, battering away at the harbour wall.
The Abbey was founded by the Saxons, improved by the Normans, dissolved by the Tudors and made world famous by the Victorians, or more importantly two Victorians. The photographer Frank Meadow Sutcliffe took lots of photos of the ruins of the Abbey at Whitby and put that on the map. Bram Stoker took it the next step further and made Whitby an important part of his novel Dracula, and since then the town has milked (or should that be bled) the link for all its worth.
Having looked around the Abbey I hopped on the open-top bus to do a circuit around the town taking in all of the key sites, before hopping back off an hour later at the Abbey to visit the next door church of St Mary’s.
Having looked round the church I descended the 199 steps back down to the town centre and had a wander round taking in the Captain Cook Memorial Museum, before stopping off at one of the many fish and chip restaurants for a bite to eat, not quite certain as to whether it would count as a very late lunch or a slightly early dinner.
As I staggered out of the restaurant I decided that the meal would count as both lunch and dinner, there had been so much of it. In a vain attempt to try and undo some of the damage to my waistline I wandered down the west pier and climbed the lighthouse for views out over the town. By now the tide was high and really lashing at the harbour wall, turning the entrance of the harbour into anything other than a haven.
By now the sun was starting to set, so I wandered back across town to pick up the bus back to Middlesbrough whilst there was still light in the sky to see most of the journey.
It was a very pleasant journey back, though the last 30 minutes or so were in the dark, so I didn’t see much of the views. By the time I got back into Middlesbrough it was nearly seven so I staggered back to the hotel, still full from my fish lunch, watched some telly and had an early night.
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The only slight flaw in this plan was it did require getting from the hotel to the bus station, which provided ample time for a light soaking.
First trip of the morning and it’s the bus back into Whitby, though this time a different route from the one the previous evening. This route went up over the Moors and it was pretty spectacular, if only for the horrific weather, lashing rain and a really strong wind that made the bus weave and wobble quite a bit. By the time I arrived in Whitby the rain had reached a crescendo and in the 20 or so yard scurry from the bus stop to the station I managed to get soaked again.
At the station I brought my ticket for the through train to Pickering. The North Yorkshire Moors Railway is different from other heritage railways in that it is able to run over the “normal” rail route to Whitby, and they almost double the service between Whitby and Grosmont. Beyond Grosmont the line climbs back up through the moors before finally descending back down into the town of Pickering on the Southern edge of the Moors.
I had a wander around Pickering, intending to look at the castle, only to find that it’s closed from October to March! I had a bit more of a wander around before making my way over to the bus stop to catch the bus along the southern edge of the Moors and then back down into York.
It’s quite a long journey (made even longer by the extended “crew refresh” that took place at Marton) so by the time I got back into York it was already almost four.
I had a quick pit stop for a sandwich in the station before catching the train north to my final stop of the day, Durham.
I was taking a bit of a risk, as I wasn’t due into Durham until gone five. Whilst any museums or other attractions would be closed by then, I had hoped that the Cathedral, the defining symbol of the city, perched high over the river Wear, would still be open, and my gamble paid off, I arrived at 5:30, with 30 minutes to spare before it closed.
I had a wander around the bits of the Cathedral that were still open (they were closing it behind me as I went, and all of the exhibition areas had already closed), before heading back down to the bus station to catch the bus back to Middlesbrough and dinner.
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I arrived in York an hour later and having deposited my luggage with Europecar (they run the left luggage office, I hadn’t just dumped it in a hire car!), I headed out into the city.
First stop, just outside the station was the city sightseeing bus stop. The last time I had been to York was nearly seven years ago and I wanted to remind myself of the layout of the city (not that much would have changed, not much has changed in York in several hundred years).
After doing the bus tour I then wandered down to the Ouse to go on a river tour. Last time I had visited had been just before Christmas and none of the river tours were running then. The tour lasted about an hour and gave a different perspective on the city from its most defining feature.
I had a long wander around the city centre taking in Clifford’s Tower and the castle area, marvelling at the size of some of the queues for the top museums. I know it’s the half term break, but the queue for Jorvik was in excess of two hours and even the Castle Museum had a queue at least 60 people deep, you’d spend longer in the queue than you would in the museum, and when you got in it would be so busy that it would be impossible to see anything!
The other problem with all the crowds were the number of people wanting lunch at the same time, in the end I decided to try my luck having lunch at half two, and that still left me having to wait a few minutes for a table.
With lunch inside me I headed over to the Minster to have a look around. This was an idea that was very quickly abandoned when I saw the entrance price. £8 just to get inside the Cathedral, another £5 if you wanted to climb the tower. I though churches were places of worship rather than of profit! With that idea scuppered I had a bit of a longer wander around the city centre and over some of the city walls before heading over to the back of the station and the National Railway Museum.
As the museum is free I thought it would be a good (and cheap) way of filling up the final hour or so before I had to wander back to the station. In the end I was only part way round when the started to close the museum down, which was my cue to head back to the station, pick up my luggage and continue my journey south.
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Just after 5, and less than 2 and a half hours after leaving the office I arrived in Salisbury, about the quickest I had ever made a holiday destination from work.
I was wondering how I was going to make my way to the Hotel, but I knew it was next to the Cathedral, and given it’s got the largest spire in the UK it wasn’t difficult to spot the direction I needed to be heading in.
I arrived at the hotel, checked in and freshen up before heading out into town to have a wander round.
However, in the twenty minutes it had taken me to freshen up the weather had taken a bit of a turn for the worse from chilly and dry to heavy snow.
I had a foreshortened wander around the town, but took advantage of the snow laden skies to take some good night shots of the Cathedral and the area around the cathedral, before heading into town for a bite to eat, and then back to the hotel for an early night.
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The tour up the tower took nearly two hours, and the views from the bottom of the spire were stunning, perhaps made even better by the light dusting of snow which was slowly melting away.
Having been up the tower I finished off wandering around the Cathedral, including taking in the Magna Carta exhibition. From there I headed across the road to the Salisbury and Wiltshire museum.
After the museum I grabbed a bite to eat for a very late lunch and then had a wander around Salisbury, though it was at this point I found that all the rest of the museums were closed for the winter.
I wandered over to the tourist information centre to see how easy it would be to get out to Woodhenge, like Stonehenge but possibly older, but by the time I’d got the bus out there it would already be gone sunset so there wouldn’t be much point.
Instead I had a bit more of a wander around the town, before headed back to the hotel to freshen up and then go out for dinner.
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At 10:15 I was phoned to say it was a “little” delayed, though by this point I wouldn’t classify 45 minutes as a little delay. Unfortunately, I had to check out by 10:40 so it was looking likely that I was not going to get breakfast.
I left my room to check out and at the same moment my breakfast finally arrived, over an hour late. But as I had to check out I had to turn it away. I stomped down to reception in a pretty bad mood, which was made even worse by the flat refusal of the hotel to refund me for the breakfast I had paid for, but never had. They did offer me the option of speaking to the duty manager, but the mood I was in I thought it was probably best not to speak to them, as I was finding it difficult to keep my language civil.
I left my luggage with the hotel and wandered over to the bus station to catch the “Stonehenge tour” out to Stonehenge. The tour is a pretty hefty rip-off by the local bus company. Rather than running a regular bus route out to Stonehenge you have to catch the tour which costs at least three times what a regular bus would. Given the morning I was having I was by now composing two lengthy letters of complaint.
My mood mellowed quite a bit when we arrived at Stonehenge. Firstly because as a English Heritage member I was able to queue jump a very large party of tourists and secondly because Stonehenge is such an interesting place, made all the more special by the light dusting of snow on the ground which gave it an even more magical quality.
After looking round the site, I hopped on the next bus back down to Old Sarum and had a look round there, before catching the following bus back into Salisbury.
By now I had pretty much exhausted all that Salisbury had to offer, so, after a pleasant lunch, I headed back to the hotel, grabbed my bags and headed back to the station and the train home.
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With some trepidation I headed out to City Airport wondering if I would get away or not.
I dropped my bag off at checkin and was told that the runway was currently closed and there was a chance that the flight might be delayed or cancelled. At the time there were a large number of delayed flights, but only one which had been cancelled, and they had started to make boarding announcements so I didn’t think it was going to be too bad.
Unfortunately, I had reasoned without BA’s inability to think about its passengers. They had already cancelled the flight from Frankfurt that made my flight, so that the plane didn’t get stuck in London. Of course, I only found this out from looking at the web once I was in the departures lounge.
So it was little surprise when the flight (due out at 14:45) first went to “Next Info 15:00” and then to “Consult Ticket Desk”. I wandered down to the BA ticket desk to see if there was any chance of getting a transfer onto the 7pm flight which was still running, but was told it was full, as was every other flight to Frankfurt from every other airport in London until Monday. Given that I was flying back on Monday it seemed pretty pointless to go to Frankfurt just to fly back so I had to abandon my plans.
Thankfully (and using that word entirely inappropriately) BA were equally as pathetic with getting the bags back, so I had a good 20 minutes to re-plan.
I was originally flying back from Frankfurt to Birmingham to take in the Christmas markets there as well. So rather than cancelling the whole holiday, why not just head for Birmingham straight away, or on Saturday, as the transport infrastructure was slowly disintegrating for the evening. In the 20 minutes I had to wait for my bag I was able to book not only a stunning deal on a hotel for Saturday and Sunday night in the centre of Birmingham, but also find a really cheap train ticket for travel up.
So that was it. My trip to Frankfurt got as far as departures, but my trip to Birmingham was going to be a little longer.
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The train left on time and, ignoring the horrific crashing noises as ice fell from the train and smashed underneath the wheels, had an uneventful if slightly delayed journey (it’s a bit difficult to go top speed into a snowstorm!)
I was going to catch a taxi from New Street round to the hotel, but on emerging from the station I realised that was probably a bad idea. The roads were gridlocked and the queue for taxis was at least 30 people deep, so instead I walked round to the hotel. It took longer than it should have done as its quite exhausting dragging a heavy suitcase through thick snow.
I checked into the hotel, dropped off my stuff and headed back out into the fading light of the late afternoon to take in the Frankfurt Market.
I had a very long wander round, stopping off at several of the stalls to sample the bratwurst, and am happy to confirm they are as good as the ones you get in Germany (the fact it was a German serving might have had something to do with it!)
After the long wander I headed back to the hotel to defrost and for an early night.
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I have a very long wander around the gardens; being one of the first people on site I had the magical sight of the almost pristine snow over the spacious grounds. After taking in the grounds I warmed myself back up in the glass houses before heading back into town.
Next up was the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, but, as it is right by the Frankfurt market, there was just time for a quick pit stop for “Ein bratwurst Bitte!”
I spent a very long time going round the museum as there was an awful lot to see, and that was with an entire floor closed for redevelopment. The key attraction was the Staffordshire Hoard; a massive find of Anglo Saxon gold discovered the previous year and now part of the permanent collection of the museum.
After leaving the museum I had a bit of a wander around the centre of Birmingham, which was a slightly surreal experience. I’ve been to Berlin several times so know my way around the city quite well, but I’ve always come as a tourist. This was the first time I had wandered round Birmingham as a tourist, but I’ve been up to Birmingham for work so many times I know the city centre pretty well, but it was amazing the number of things I noticed when I was just wandering around rather than trying to get to or from a meeting.
My wandering took me back to the Cathedral which I had a wander around before heading back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out for a bite to eat and a late wander around the market just before it closed for the evening.
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I’d decided to head out of the city for the morning and go out to the small town of Burton-on-Trent some 25 miles away. Calling Burton a small town is actually a bit of an injustice as it was the brewing capital of England. At one point a quarter of all beer brewed in Britain was brewed in this small town. Today it recalls that heritage by being home to the National Brewery Centre.
Arriving in the town the first thing that strikes you, even as the train doors open, is the smell of malted barley and hops in the air. Today, there is still a large amount of brewing going on, but it’s all done by big multi-nationals (the name Coors stands over the city where once Bass’s logo’s sat) in highly mechanised processes.
I had a wander through the town to the centre. Having looked around, and had my four free tasters (which in the end was the best part of a pint), I wandered back through the town and caught the bus over to the nearby city of Lichfield.
Lichfield is not particularly well known even in the UK (except for those where the dreaded phrase “Overhead line problems in the Lichfield Trent Valley area” has caused untold misery), especially not it’s cathedral which is a real surprise.
I was expecting a smallish cathedral, not the gigantic structure at the back of the town. Its three spires and Gothic architecture looking quite a bit like a (not much) smaller version of Cologne.
I had a long look around the Cathedral and was considering having a wander around town when I popped into the station just to check on train times back for later. At that point my plans for the day changed quite abruptly as the screens were flagging massive delays, the snow was coming back in and train services were already in a mess. I decided not to risk it and went for the train that was arriving at that moment, and I was lucky I did. It was 45 minutes before anything passed us in the opposite direction and as Lichfield is the end of the line, it would have been a very long wait if I had left it longer.
The train crawled back into Birmingham through yet another blizzard finally making it back into New Street around 30 minutes late. I walked back, through the snow to the hotel to pick up my bags and then walked them round to the Travelodge. The walk was only around a Kilometre, but with all the snow on the ground, and dragging a heavy case, it took nearly 30 minutes and I was absolutely shattered by the time I checked in.
After having a quick freshen up, I headed back into town to grab a bite to eat and have another wander around the market, before heading back to the hotel for a well-earned sleep.
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It’s amazing the difference a bit of snow makes. When I came in February the place was absolutely heaving, today in late December with half a foot of snow on the ground the place was virtually empty.
Having taken in the exhibitions (and my fill of chocolate, both shopped for and consumed), I headed back to the station and caught the train back into town. From there I headed over towards the Jewellery Quarter for a look around.
I had a good wander around the place, as well as taking in the museum before heading back into town for a bite to eat and a final evenings shopping in the Christmas markets, finishing off the present buying.
Filled with Bratwurst and Glühwein I staggered back to the hotel and attempted to pack my bag with everything I had brought so that it still closed, before heading to bed.
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So instead, I went for plan B, which was a trip to Ironbridge Gorge instead.
Unfortunately, I didn’t bother phoning ahead there to check to see if anything was open and consequently found everything shut when I got there, but the visitors centre and museum weren’t my reason for coming to Ironbridge. I’d come to see the spectacular bridge that proved you could use cast Iron to make major structures and put this part of rural Shropshire at the heart of the industrial revolution.
I had a long wander around the area taking in the beauty of the Gorge and the elegance of the bridge before retiring to a very nice pub for lunch.
In fact the pub was so nice that I booked a room for three nights in August to come back and properly take in the World Heritage Site.
By the time I had finished lunch it was coming up to three and I needed to start heading back into Birmingham. I caught the bus back into Telford no problem, and then managed to get a bus straight away back to the station, thus avoiding the 20 or so minute hike that I had endured on the way out.
However, on arrival at the station I found out I shouldn’t have bothered. The train I was aiming for was delayed by over 30 minutes (in fact it continued to get later and by the time I finally left on the following train, it was nearly an hour late) so I had a 25 minute wait for the stopping train back into Birmingham.
The light finally disappeared from the sky over Wolverhampton and by the time I got back into Birmingham it was definitely night. I popped up to the station building to pick up my luggage from the left luggage office, before heading back down onto the platform and my train home.
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Having checked in and dropped all my stuff off I went for a wander around the city centre.
I then grabbed a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel and an early night
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I arrived in Darlington just in time for the rain to start up, and by the time I reached Richmond it had settled into a hefty continuous downpour. I headed straight for the castle to have a look around the exhibition and ruins. By the time I had finished looking around the weather had just about calmed down to a heavy drizzle so I had a look around the town centre.
I had just over an hour to wait for my bus to the next destination, and with the weather picking up in ferocity again, I sought refuge in a pub overlooking the market and had a very pleasant lunch.
I managed to time my lunch so that I left the pub and was able to leap straight onto the bus which then headed off through the dales to the small market town of Middleham. Today Middleham is the centre of the Racehorse training industry in the UK. In the Middle ages, for a while at least, it was important in the running of England. Today it’s spectacular castle is a reminder of that important past.
Having looked round the castle I had a long wander around the town itself, which is really pretty, before it was time to start the lengthy journey back home.
I had looked at turning the journey into a round trip carrying on into Ripon and then back into Leeds from there, but the buses were not particularly frequent, and it would have ended up costing more as the return fare on the train had been almost the same as the single, so from Middleham I caught the bus back across the Dales, taking in the scenery which had become even more stunning than it had been on the journey over as all the heavy rain had started the rivers breaking their banks.
By the time I arrived back into Richmond it was dark, and I had a 20 minute wait for the connection back to Darlington so I had a quick look around the centre in the dark (and wet), before hopping back on the bus.
At Darlington the great British institution of the weekend engineering works was in full force. There hadn’t been any in the morning, but according to the notices, after midday Darlington was the furthest North you could hope to get by train without either a very long detour via the Tees, Wear and Tyne back into Newcastle, or a hefty bus ride up the M1.
Consequently the trains were in a bit of a mess and there were no direct trains back to Leeds for nearly two hours, so instead I hopped on the train that was about to depart and caught down to York, where I changed (for the umpteenth time recently it felt like) onto another train to Leeds.
I arrived back in the city centre just before 8 so grabbed a light bite to eat (the lunch really had been very good) before heading back to the hotel to try and dry off.
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By the time I had had a shower and some breakfast the weather had taken a distinct turn for the worse and was starting to drizzle quite heavily as I left the hotel for the short walk down to the Royal Armouries.
I had a long look around the armouries, which was just as well as all the time I was in the museum it was absolutely pelting it down outside. Having exhausted the galleries I made the short dash across the plaza to the Pizza Express on the other side for a late lunch (working on the basis that the weather might just improve by the time I had finished).
I was proved partly right, and by the time I emerged it was merely down to light rain rather than a monsoon. I wandered back into the city centre and up to the city art gallery to have a look around and from there next door to the Henry Moore Institute.
With the city’s art collections taken in, and the weather having almost decided to give up on getting things wet, I went for another wander around the city centre before heading back to the hotel for a light bite to eat and an early night.
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First off it was up into the Dales on the train to the market town of Skipton. I had a wander through the town and over to their castle. The castle is described as one of the finest examples of a medieval castle, and from the outside it is, it’s just no effort has been taken on the inside to give any idea of what it would have been like, it’s just a series of whitewash walled rooms with occasional information plaques.
I had originally hoped to be able to fill up quite a bit of time at the castle and then catch the bus across the dales to my next destination Harrogate after lunch. Instead the castle took so little time that as I left it the previous bus (and they are only every other hour) was just leaving.
Rather than have a two hour wait in the town, I wandered back to the station and caught the train back to Leeds and then out to Harrogate. I’m glad I did as I wouldn’t have seen the magnificent view of the Crimple Viaduct as we left Pannal station before doing a very tight 90 degree turn and running across it.
I had a long wander around the centre of Harrogate, stopping for a late lunch, before finding myself outside the Royal Pump Room’s museum. I had a quick look round, and took the waters (which are pretty unpleasant, so they must be good for you!), before heading on into the Valley Gardens to have a wander through them.
The gardens climb up onto the edge of the Pennines and the views across the rolling Yorkshire Dale countryside were spectacular. I was heading for the botanical gardens at the back of the park, but by the time I reached them they had already closed the ticket office for the evening as sunset was only just over an hour away.
I walked a short distance back to the main road and caught the bus back into Harrogate where I had a final wander round before heading back into Leeds.
After grabbing a bite to eat I went for a wander around the city centre, and headed over towards the Clarence Dock and Royal Armouries to have a look at them in the dark, and I wasn’t disappointed. The main architectural feature of the Armouries is a tall glass tower which acts as the main staircase. Up the centre are arrays of weaponry and at night the whole tower is brightly lit, looking like a blazing lighthouse marking the end of the Leeds Liverpool Canal and the Aire weir.
Having taken that all in I wandered back to the hotel for a well-earned sleep.
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We eventually pulled into the bus station nearly 10 minutes late, which wouldn’t have been much of a problem as the bus was due to wait there for 10 minutes before continuing onto Ripon. Unfortunately, the bus company had decided at this point they wanted to change vehicles so we all had to decamp out of the first bus and into another one, before they could start boarding the passengers waiting in Harrogate.
It didn’t take as long as I might have feared and it was only about five minutes late leaving the bus station. The problem was my connection in Ripon was only 8 minutes.
I needn’t’ have worried, firstly the bus station in Ripon is more an oversized traffic island, you can walk from one end to the other in five seconds, and secondly, I hadn’t taken into account the natural ability of a bus driver to really open up the taps on an empty stretch of road. We pulled into Ripon bang on time, if slightly bounced around.
I changed buses and made the final leg of the journey out to the World Heritage site of Fountains Abbey and Studly Royal. The Abbey was the largest Cistercian abbey in the UK and is one of the finest ruins of an abbey still standing. In the 18th century the land around was landscaped with the ruins becoming a feature of the gardens.
I had intended on spending about three hours looking around the site and catching the twenty to three bus back into Ripon to have a look around there. In the end, by the time I actually first looked at the clock it was already half two and I was two miles away from the visitors centre and bus stop, so instead enjoyed the remainder of my walk around the site, and caught the penultimate bus of the day an hour later back into Ripon.
The only downside was by the time I arrived back in Ripon it was just before four and all the museums were closing, but I did manage to get into the Cathedral in time to have a look around. I then went for a short wander around the city centre, before heading back to the bus station and starting the long journey back into Leeds.
By the time I got back into Leeds I had developed a bizarre craving for Sushi so headed over to the Yo-Sushi in Harvey Nicolas (Grim Northern Mining City to Poncy Southern Shopping City in less than 15 years!) to have my fill before heading back to the hotel to start packing.
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After a quick breakfast I headed out of the hotel and over to the station to catch the train back down to London
Just over two hours later, and over five minutes early, the train pulled into Kings Cross and I headed across town to the office.
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A couple of stops down the line, with careful positioning, I was able to secure a seat which then improved to a window seat a couple of stops further down the line.
Part of the reason for the fantastically cheap ticket was that the journey time from Croydon to Southampton is not particularly express like. In fact it would have been quicker, by some way, to have gone up into London, over to Waterloo and gotten the train down from there. Though I would still have had to squeeze into a horrifically overcrowded sardine tin, except in that instance for the better part of £40.
So, nearly two and a half hours after leaving Croydon, but in a first for Southern, five minutes early, the train pulled into Southampton and disgorged the final few remaining passengers who were travelling on it.
I walked the short distance from the station to the hotel, checked in, dropped off my stuff and headed out into the misty, slightly damp night to have a look around the city centre.
I wasn’t expecting particularly much. After all, Southampton has been one of the UK’s major ports for a long time, and got pretty extensively bombed during WWII. Most of the area around the hotel has been developed into a retail and entertainment park, so after walking across acres of desolate car park and past cavernous superstore after cavernous superstore, it was a bit of a surprise to suddenly stumble along a chunk of the old medieval city walls.
I had quite a long wander around the city centre before grabbing a late bite to eat and heading back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
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After having an early morning wander around the city centre, I wandered back to the station to meet my friends in a coffee shop near the entrance.
We spent most of the day wandering around the city partaking of the Coffee shops, restaurants and bars before it was time for them to start heading home.
After leaving them at the station I wandered back to the hotel, dropped off my stuff, grabbed a light bite to eat at the hotel bar, and then wandered over to the nearby cinema to grab a late evening film before heading back to the hotel.
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The walls eventually lead you down to the harbour and the Wool house, the largest free-standing medieval building in the city, and today home to the Maritime museum.
I had a long look round the museum, before continuing along the wall walk down towards the Town Quay and the ferries across Southampton Water to Hythe. As the day was quite nice I decided to catch the ferry across and have a look around Hythe, though on a Sunday morning in Early February, Hythe could be described as pretty dead, so after a quick look around and a stop in a coffee shop in the “town centre” I headed back into Southampton and continued walking around the walls.
I had intended on visiting another couple of attractions in the city centre. The archaeological museum in one of the old gates supposedly has a lot of information on the development of Southampton. Unfortunately, that was closed due to staff shortages.
The medieval house, according to the English Heritage website, was due to be open that afternoon. According to the sign outside, it was closed until Easter, so that proved to be another closed attraction.
By now it was late afternoon and the weather was starting to deteriorate. Added to that was the fact that there were no trains direct back to London. Instead there was a rail replacement service so I decided, as it was going to be a pretty slow journey back, and there was not much else to do, I wandered back to the hotel, collected my bags and wandered over to the train station to get the bus out to the parkway station.
By the time I arrived at Southampton Airport (Parkway) the weather had deteriorated to pretty atrocious, so I felt vindicated in my decision to leave early. It still didn’t help the fact I had a 35 minute wait for the train back into London.
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I arrived at the gate with plenty of time to spare, which was good as they very quickly started boarding people. With ten minutes to go before our scheduled departure time they were already closing the doors and getting ready to do the safety briefing.
By the time we touched down in Porto a steady tail wind had added to the smoothness and we touched down 25 minutes ahead of schedule. A quick trip through the terminal, with the bags taking only slightly longer meant that I was sitting on a Metro train heading into town at the same time I was due to land.
I walked the short distance from the metro station to the hotel, checked in, and then headed down into town for a wander around.
I had a bit of a wander around the riverside area, before heading towards the Tourism office to buy a Porto Card. From there it was a simple step across the road and onto the penultimate open-top tour bus of the day to go round the city centre taking in the sights.
The tour route includes going out to the Atlantic coast and then coming back into down along the bank of the Douro River. The bus arrived at the coast at the same time as the sun started to set and it made for some very beautiful scenes, especially with the Atlantic being quite lively.
By the time I got back into town it was starting to get a dark so I headed back to the riverside and grabbed a bite to eat, before hiking back up hill (the funicular railway was closed for no apparent reason) to the hotel.
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I then picked up the Metro and caught it one stop, across the spectacular top span of the Dom Luis I bridge to the upper area of Vila Nova de Gaia. From there I wandered down the passageways and staircases of the old town pas the edge of the Port cellars to the Croft Cellars, where I went on the tour.
Two samples of Port later I continued my wanderings down to the waterside and from there along the river bank back to the Dom Luis Bridge where I picked up the third and final open-top tour route from CarrisTur which took in the main bridges of the city.
I arrived back near the old stock exchange, and went to go for a visit. Unfortunately, you have to go round on a guided tour, and the next English one wasn’t for another hour, so I booked onto that and then headed up into the centre of town and the Torre dos Clérigos.
This is the tallest building in the city, and given it’s already on one of the highest points of the city already; it makes for some stunning views from the top. I had enough time to climb up to the top, take lots of photos come all the way back down, walk back to the Stock Exchange, pick up some stamps, postcards and fill them out, before my tour started.
The stock Exchange is an amazing building, if only for showing how those people who play the markets have always made fantastic amounts of money and know how to spend it in the most extravagant way. In particular the Arabic room at the end of the tour shows fabulous wealth (if not fabulous taste!)
As I was leaving the stock exchange the final castles tour bus of the day was pulling up outside, so I decided to have another circuit on that, especially as the journey along the river and up the coast would be whilst the sun was starting to set.
By the time I got back to the Stock Exchange it was dark, which meant it must be dinner time. I wandered through some of the back streets until I found a very nice little restaurant and had a very nice fish dinner.
Filled to bursting, I then, very lazily, caught a bus back up the hills into the centre of town, and then the Metro one stop to the station nearest the hotel, before staggering back the short distance to my welcoming bed.
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I had a good wander around the Cloisters and museum whilst a service was going on, timing my return back into the main body of the cathedral just as the service was completing, so I was then able to have a look around the Cathedral straight away.
From the Cathedral I walked down to the riverside and picked up one of the many boat tours that run up and down the Douro. Whilst the trip was very pleasant, especially with the heat of the day starting to build, it could have benefited from a commentary.
I stopped by the riverside for a very nice lunch, before catching the Funicular back up the hill arriving just in time to catch one of the few trams still running in the city (all of which operate as a kind of heritage service) for a quick spin around the city centre. It’s penultimate stop being conveniently just outside my hotel so I was able to quick pop back in and freshen up.
From the hotel I wandered back down to the top of the Dom Luis Bridge and wandered across it, taking in the stunning views. From the other side I again wandered down into the lanes and passageways of the Vila Nova de Gaia, this time heading for Taylor’s cellars. Almost an exact repeat of the previous day’s visit to Croft, but you can’t say no to free alcohol!
I wandered back down to the riverside and caught a bus up into the centre of town near the San Francisco church.
The church itself is no longer in use, but you can visit it for an eye watering example of what happens when someone has far too much money and gold! The rest of the complex includes the original crypt with a slightly creepy ossuary and a small museum.
Right outside the church is where another one of the old tram lines starts, so I decided to catch that tram out, along the edge of the river and then back to the old tram museum. The museum was closed so I caught the third (and final) tram route back up to connect with the one back to my hotel where I stopped off to drop off some of the junk from my bag, and to grab a light supper from one of the local cafes.
I then walked back down to the Dom Luis Bridge, which by now in the dark was lit up and made the views even more spectacular. Having taken in those views I wandered back up to the Cathedral to get some shots of it in the dark before heading back to the hotel feeling exhausted.
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In the end I had quite a long wander and found myself almost down by the tram museum, so I caught the tram up the hill past the Crystal Palace gardens to take in some of the views of the river before it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my stuff and head back to the airport for the journey home.
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After checking in and dropping off my stuff I picked the shuttle bus back up and went back to the airport to catch the metro into town to have a look around.
I had a wander around the royal palace and Sol areas, before heading over to Plaza Mayor for a bite to eat, even managing to almost get into Spanish habits by not starting dinner until 9:30.
After a bit more wandering I headed back to the airport and once again just managed to miss the shuttle bus. Thankfully, I had left enough time that there was one final one of the night, so I was able to wait for that and got back to the hotel just before midnight, and a well-earned sleep.
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In the end the flight was delayed by quite a bit and it was nearly 45 minutes late by the time it landed in Jerez, but that was OK, as I managed to make it through the airport with a couple of minutes to spare before the bus into town.
Having gotten into town I decided I couldn’t be bothered to try and find the bus stop so I jumped in a cab to the Hotel. I hadn’t realised quite how far away the hotel was and it took the cab a good 15 minutes to get to the hotel.
After checking in and dropping off my stuff I wandered back into the old town, discovering on the way that it took nearly 30 minutes to get to the edge of it, in a pretty boring and very uphill walk.
I had a long wander around town, stopping off part way round for a very late lunch in a nice café near the main square.
I got back to the Plaza del Arenal just before the land train set off for a tour of the city, so I decided to hop on board and take the tour.
After that completed it was then a short walk down to the main Sherry Bodegas to catch the last tour of the day round the site including tastings and tapas.
Full of sherry and tapas I had a bit of a further wander around the Cathedral and Alcazar area before finding the bus stop back to the hotel, conveniently just as the bus was about to depart.
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I had a long wander around the Cathedral and then walked round to the Alcazar to have a look around.
Unfortunately, at this point the weather took a distinct turn for the worse and I spent quite a lot of the time running between buildings to avoid the downpours.
By now I had pretty much exhausted what the city had to offer as many of its main museums were either closed for restoration, or not yet open for the summer season, so I decided to wander down to the station and catch the train out to Cadiz.
I arrived in Cadiz just in time for the weather to improve dramatically, and in time to hop on one of the open-top sightseeing tours of the city.
Having taken in the tour I went for a long wander around the city centre, and out to the two fortifications. The first, the Castillo de San Sebastián was closed for renovation, but the long walk out over the 750m causeway was worth it for the stunning views of the city. The second the Castillo de Santa Catalina was open and had a couple of small exhibitions which I had a look around, as well as being able to take in the views.
I wandered back to through the city centre to the station in the late twilight to catch the train back into Jerez and was treated to the beautiful scene of the sun setting behind Cadiz as the train ran across the isthmus.
I walked back from the station in Jerez to the centre of town to track down somewhere for dinner, and after a very filling meal, wandered back over to the Alcazar to catch the bus back to the hotel and bed.
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I hopped on the first train back out to Cadiz, and as we headed towards the coast the sun started to breakthrough, so that by the time I reached the city it was sunny and warm again.
I headed over to the Cathedral to have a look around, and then up one of the Cathedral’s towers to take in the view of the city from there. Next door is the Yacimiento Arqueológico, which has Roman and Phoenician remains of the city underneath the Bishops palace.
Having taken those in I walked the short distance over to the Cathedral museum to have a look around.
After a quick stop for a late lunch I wandered back through town to the Cadiz museum to have a look around that, before making my way back through the Carnival crowds to have a look around the Old Cathedral, located next to the current one, but dating back, in parts, to the 13th century.
When I had booked to come to Jerez, part of the reason for choosing there over Cadiz, had been that I couldn’t find any hotel rooms at a reasonable price in the city. I thought it might just have been that there weren’t any. It turns out it was because I was choosing to visit over the Carnival weekend, and strangely, virtually every room in the city had been booked nearly a year in advance.
Unfortunately, the bulk of the celebrations on the Saturday didn’t kick off until 8pm and I had a ticket for the 9:10 train, so I was only able to see a small amount of the celebrations before I had to head back to the station and pick up the train to Jerez and then the bus back to the hotel
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However, the day didn’t have the best of starts as I discovered when I got up that the water was off in parts of the hotel and I was unable to have a shower.
After a leisurely breakfast I headed to the station and the train in Cadiz, and then had a wander around the town taking in the build up to the big parades.
I managed to catch quite a bit of the carnival before the first hefty shower passed through just after 3pm.
I watched a bit more, but the next cloud burst was pretty obviously going to be a very long, and very wet one, and people were already starting to drift away, so I headed back to the station and caught the train back to Jerez.
It was still chucking it down by the time I got back to Jerez so I wandered back to the hotel to grab a bite to eat, to dry off, and to pack.
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Unfortunately, I had forgotten that the first flight was an internal one, so arriving at the airport with two hours to spare was a little excessive, but it did mean that I was first in the queue for checkin!
After checking in and having a long wander around the very small departures lounge the flight was eventually called and, after some minor confusion with the queue getting muddled up with another queue for a Barcelona flight, boarded.
A very bumpy flight later we landed at Madrid. I had hoped that they would have been able to check my bags all the way through to London from Jerez, but unfortunately, in spite of Iberia and BA now being the same company, they couldn’t find a link to my booking, so I had to go through the whole baggage reclamation and then checking in again procedure.
Thankfully, I had four hours for the connection so I was thankful for something to take up some of the time.
After checking in for the second time in less than three hours, I wandered through to departures to await my flight.
Six hours later and bang on time the plane touched down at Heathrow and then a really freaky thing happened, I sailed through the airport.
In less than 20 minutes from landing I had disembarked, been bussed back to the terminal, been through immigration, collected my baggage and walked the quite long walk to the bus station to catch the bus back to Feltham and the train. Everything connected correctly, nothing was delayed, and nothing went wrong. I think that was the first time that had ever happened at that speed!
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The fact the lobby was heaving with Police and security officers was a bit of an interesting introduction to Northampton. One of the Police officers explained that they had been dealing with a small “melee” which has now been dealt with and then checked me in, as the hotel staff were filling out statements.
With that slightly disturbing introduction I wandered up to my room, dropped off my stuff and then went for a short wander around the city centre.
I pretty quickly realised that Northampton appears to be a bit of a schizophrenic town. Some very nice buildings, in some quite posh looking areas, and yet also some really divey looking places, sadly the latter forming a ring around the hotel.
Getting slightly concerned about the thought of being out on the streets of Northampton on a Friday night I decided to head back to the hotel and visit the cinema that it’s built above to fill up my Friday evening.
On leaving the cinema to walk the 30 yards back to the hotel I passed at least two puddles of sick, saw three police vans racing towards the city centre and what appeared to be a couple being “very friendly” in a shop doorway.
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From there I wandered on down to the station to catch the train out to Bletchley to visit Bletchley Park.
After having a long wander around Bletchley Park I wandered back to the station and was just in time to catch the train a couple of stops further south to Berkhamsted to have a look around the ruins of the castle there.
Having taken in the ruins it was time to start heading back to Northampton as I was supposed to be meeting up with friends.
After a very long afternoon and evening with friends I finally got back to the hotel a little bit before 1am.
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After a couple of hours of wandering we stopped for a late lunch and a bite to eat, before it was time to head back to the hotel to collect luggage and make our ways home.
My friends had come up on the bike, but I was going back on the train so I said goodbye to them at the hotel and walked down to the station.
I had known that the journey home was not going to be particularly easy as the rail company had a strike going on, so instead of a quick 60 minute journey from Northampton straight into London I had to look forward to a 50 minute coach ride to Milton Keynes to catch the hourly service that was running from there into town.
However, that was without the gremlins getting into the works and the radiator on the coach blowing out and leaving us dumped by the side of the road on the outskirts of Milton Keynes for 40 minutes before a replacement coach arrived.
By the time that got us to Milton Keynes I had missed the train and so had to wait another 40 minutes for the very last train of the day (which at not even 6:30 is a bit poor) down to London.
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The previous time I’d come to Bristol I’d got hopelessly lost in the floating harbour area and ended up walking round in a very large circle taking nearly an hour to find the hotel. This time I knew Bristol better, and I knew exactly where the hotel was, so five minutes after stepping off the train I was checking in to the hotel.
Having dumped my stuff I headed out of the hotel and up onto the Downs at Clifton. I was originally aiming for the suspension bridge first off, but managed to misjudge bus stops and got off far too early. In the end it was quite fortuitous as I was able to have a very pleasant walk across the downs and then get stunning views of the bridge as I approached it, rather than it just appearing as it does when you come at it from Clifton.
After a long wander round I headed back in to town, stopping off for a light dinner, before going off to meet friends for the evening.
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Cheddar is home to the UK’s most famous Gorge (though the Avon Gorge through the outskirts of Bristol comes a close second). The Gorge is littered with attractions at its lower end, focused around the two sets of show caves.
You can only get a joint ticket to all the attractions so it made sense to try and take in as many as possible. First off was the explorer tour, an open-top bus tour that takes you up the Gorge, past the worst of the tourist traps and into the unspoilt upper gorge where the scenery is stunning. The bus dropped everyone off outside Gough’s caves so I had a look around them, before crossing the road to the museum of pre-history.
Then it was a quick spot of lunch before heading down the gorge and then up 273 steps to the lookout tower on the top of gorge. From there it was all the way back down and into Cox’s caves and the very cheesy Crystal Quest in the lower part of the cave.
After that I was feeling pretty Gorged out so I wandered back to the bus stop and caught the bus on into Weston-Super-Mare, the West country’s premier seaside resort.
I had a go on the Wheel of Weston and then went for a wander along the prom (or more importantly got the land train most of the way along the prom and then walked back). Weston was very busy, but with the tide a long way out, and no particular wish to empty all of my 10p pieces into slot machines, there wasn’t much to do in the town so I headed back to the station and caught the train back into Bristol and then on out to Bradford-on-Avon.
The small town marks the point where the river and the Kennett and Avon canal, which have been running parallel to each other since Bath, diverge with a large canal basin. The town dates back to Saxon times with a small Saxon era church, and pleasant walks along both the river and the canal.
I had a look around the town and then had a walk along the canal tow path down to the next settlement of Avoncliff before catching the train back one stop to Bradford-on-Avon for another wander around the town centre before it was time to head back into Bristol and dinner.
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I had a long wander around the city museum and art gallery before heading back down to the station.
When I’d looked up things to do in the area there were several mentions of the Severn Beach railway line as being scenic and worth doing, so I grabbed a return ticket to Avonmouth (as far the trains go on a Sunday) to take in the views.
Now it’s possible that it’s the short section from Avonmouth to Severn Beach that’s particularly spectacular, as the section into Avonmouth whilst being interesting wasn’t the worlds prettiest of rides.
I got off at Avonmouth to have a quick look around, but very quickly realised that it’s not actually a particularly interesting place, dominated as it is by the port. However, by then the train had already departed back to Bristol so instead I had to get a bus back into the city centre.
I got off the bus at College Green and had a look around the Cathedral area and around the city quay before catching the last sightseeing tour of the day.
After getting off the tour I grabbed an early dinner before heading back to the hotel to drop stuff off before, in the twilight catching the bus back up to Clifton to take some photos of the suspension bridge lit up at night.
After that I headed back to the hotel to pack and then grab a good night’s sleep.
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I checked out of the hotel, bade Bristol farewell and hopped onto the train back to London through the morning gloom (which in itself was a surprise as the weather forecast just 10 minutes earlier had implied clear skies across the whole of the South!)
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The first part of the journey across the West Midlands and then across Wales wasn’t the most interesting train ride in the country, but as the train ploughed on further into Wales the scenery got progressively more stunning.
I had to change trains at Machynlleth which in itself was a stunning location. The train ride from there on along the Cambrian coast being continuously stunning virtually the whole way. I arrived in Porthmadog a little before 1 and quickly made my way round to the hotel to check in, drop my stuff off and head out again.
First stop was the Welsh Highland Line station to purchase a ticket for the only train of the day to Caernarfon for the following morning, and then a wander back up to the national rail station to catch the train back a couple of stops to Harlech.
Harlech is home to a stunning castle and I had a long wander around this and the village before walking back down to the station and catching the train another couple of stops along the line to Abermaw/Barmouth.
Abermaw is a pretty little coastal resort with wide sandy beaches, sand dunes and the stunning hills of Snowdonia coming almost down onto the beaches. I had a wander around the town and the beach for a while before it was time to start making my way back to the station and the train back to Porthmadog.
Everything was going fine until we reached Tygwyn station where things went a bit wrong. The level crossing had failed and as the road is very fast at this point the train couldn’t just creep across in case something came over the hill at speed and slammed straight into it. Eventually, after 40 minutes of waiting they were able to stop the traffic and let us move across.
By the time I got back into Porthmadog it was starting to get dark so I grabbed some dinner from the Tesco by the station and headed back to the hotel.
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The Welsh Highland Line finally reached Porthmadog just a few months before I visited, having been extended over a number of years back to its original length (and actually a bit further as it never used to go into Caernarfon, instead ending in quarries near Dinas.) At present only one train a day makes the trip across town from the Ffestiniog station in the harbour and out onto the line, and it was this train I was booked onto.
The first part of the journey is relatively flat out across the flood plain, but pretty soon the train starts to climb, up through the spectacular Aberglaslyn Pass and on along the edge of Snowdon through some spectacular scenery, before finally descending back down into Caernarfon.
I had a quick change in Caernarfon onto the bus out to Llanberis and a second special train of the day. This time the Snowdon mountain railway, which I had intended on whisking me up to the summit of Wales’s highest mountain. Unfortunately, the weather had put pay to that. Whilst it was gloriously sunny it was also pretty windy, and towards the top of the mountain the wind speeds were at levels that made running trains dangerous, so we were only able to go 5/8 of the way up, but that still included some stunning views of the mountain.
Back at the base station more than an hour earlier than I had originally envisaged I decided to visit Electric Mountain, the name of the visitors centre for Dinorwig Pumped storage power station, and arrived just in time to make the last guided tour of the station itself of the day.
With the tour complete it was time to catch the bus back into Caernarfon to grab a bite and a late wander around the town to fill up the nearly two hours before the last bus of the day back to Porthmadog.
In the end I actually got away slightly earlier as the National Express coach that was going to Pwllheli was also stopping in Porthmadog so I caught that instead.
The journey out to Caernarfon had taken nearly three hours in an open carriage on wooden seats, the return was just over half an hour in plush leather reclining seats on a modern luxury coach, a slight contrast.
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I caught the train all the way out to Blaenau taking in the spectacular line, which includes a section where the train spirals back over itself to climb up a particularly steep bit of hill (caused by the original part of the line being closed as it was to be submerged in a reservoir to create yet another pumped storage power station).
At Blaenau caught the shuttle bus up to the Slate caverns at Llechwedd and had a look around all the attractions there.
By the time I got back to the station I was just in time to catch the train, unfortunately there didn’t appear to be any train. The reason was that there was a large fire near the railway and the fire brigade had halted all trains.
At one point it looked like we would have to be bussed back to Blaenau, but eventually the final train of the day made it through to take us back, so instead of having a couple of hours exploring Snowdonia national park, instead I had two hours sitting on Blaenau Ffestiniog station.
By the time I got back into town all the restaurants were full so I had to grab a takeaway from the local Chinese and take it back to the hotel to eat.
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The bus turned out to be a miraculously good choice. Firstly as the journey was so spectacular through the countryside and secondly as it got me to Blaenau 55 minutes before my train was due to leave.
12 minutes before my train was due to leave the train from Porthmadog was due in, but it didn’t appear, and by the time we pulled out of the station heading for Llandudno it had still not put an appearance in, meaning that if I had caught it I would have been stranded. Any later train from Blaenau meant I wouldn’t have been able to make it back to London that evening, and going back to Porthmadog would have led to the same result.
The ride down from Blaenau to Llandudno along the Conwy Valley is another spectacular journey, starting with the bizarre and scarred landscape of Blaenau then entering a long tunnel which pops out into the lush green of the upper Conwy Valley it’s hard to imagine you are only the other side of the same hills that are so scarred in Blaenau.
We arrived in Llandudno on time and my train back to Chester arrived within a minute of it’s scheduled time. Unfortunately, it was only two cars long and spectacularly busy. At each station down the line it got progressively later as people tried to squeeze on so that by the time we reached Flint the train was running 18 minutes late, exactly the same length of time as my connection in Chester was.
Thankfully, the train managed to make up a couple of minutes between Flit and Chester and we arrived in with two minutes to make the sprint down the platform to the London train. Thankfully most of the train was also making the sprint so it was pretty obvious to the Virgin train crew that they couldn’t really get away with leaving this number of people abandoned, so they held the train for a couple of minutes to allow everyone to board.
Slumped into my seat I finally caught my breath and was able to unwind a little from the previous hours increasing tension, and enjoy the journey through the evening sunshine back to London.
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It’s an interesting journey through the edge of the Lagoon and out across the watery equivalent of the motorway down to the Fondamente Nuove and then round through the canals into the Grand Canal.
Having hopped off the airport boat at its penultimate stop it was then only a single stop on the regular vaporetto across the Grand Canal to the stop for the hotel.
After dropping all the stuff off we headed back out to grab a pre-dinner drink and then wander through to the Rialto area for some dinner.
After dinner a stroll through the back alleys from the Rialto to Saint Marks square before catching the vaporetto back to the hotel.
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First stop of the morning was to get over to Fondamente Nouve to pick up the vaporetto over to Burano and then onto Torcello.
Having had a wander around Torcello and taken in the sights it was a short hop back across the lagoon to Burano for a long wander around there, stopping off for lunch.
From Burano it was back round to the Lido and then on, via St Marks, to have a wander around Dorsoduro stopping off on the Fondamenta Zatterie for an evening drink before heading back over towards the hotel for dinner.
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Having crossed to the Lido we caught the bus down the length of the island to its southern tip, where the bus drives onto the ferry for the five minute crossing to the next island of Pellestrina. It then runs the length of Pellestrina as it thins down with the lagoon next to the road on one side, and on the other side of a high sea wall the Mediterranian.
From Pellestrina it’s a quick change onto the waiting Vaporetto for the final 20 minute chug across the Lagoon to the town of Chioggia.
There’s not much to see in Chioggia, the main reason for visiting is for the journey there and back, but the town is an important fishing harbour, with several good fish restaurants, so it made sense to stop for lunch and have a long wander round before catching the boat, bus, bus on boat and bus back to the Lido.
From the Lido we hopped on a Vaporetto round to Cannaregio to have a look around the Ghetto.
From the Ghetto we walked back past St Marks and onto the Arsenale area. Then it was back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out towards the Rialto for a bite to eat and another evening wander.
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After breakfast and leaving the bags at the hotel we wandered down to the Fondamenta Zatterie and caught the vaporetto across the canal to the Giudecca to have a look around that island and taking in its main church Il Redentore.
From there it was a short hop on to San Giorgio Maggiore to go up the bell tower and take in the sites.
There was just enough time to catch the Vaporetto back the slow way to the hotel and pick up the luggage before catching the boat back out to the airport and the flight home.
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Of course, travelling down to Gatwick on a Friday evening at rush hour is never a particularly pleasant experience, but add on that it was the Friday of a Bank holiday weekend at the start of the school holidays it made the train just that little bit more “busy”
An event free journey down to the airport and a quick run through bag drop and security saw me sitting in the lounge less than 40 minutes after leaving work.
The flight was eventually called 20 minutes after the originally scheduled departure time, and by the time everyone had boarded and push back had started it was nearly 22:00. The advantage of that was we accelerated away from the gate and just carried on picking up speed straight onto the runway and into take-off.
With a heft head wind as well it was gone 23:00 by the time we finally landed in Glasgow, by which time it appeared most staff had gone home as it took an age for the bags to come round.
I had originally intended on getting the bus into town, but by now it was nearly midnight, I was tired, and it was raining so instead I decided to take the hit and get a cab straight to my hotel.
A quick checkin, but even with that it was still gone midnight when my head hit the pillow, knowing I had to be up early the following morning to get the train West.
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It’s a long, but stunning journey up through the southern highlands over to Oban and the four hours or so passed by with one amazing vista after another coming past the window. On arriving at Oban I dropped my luggage off in the lockers at the station and headed out into town to have a look around.
First stop after a bit of a wander was the Distillery to book myself on the next tour, which wasn’t for another 30 minutes, so I walked down to the local tour agents to book on a tour of Mull, Staffa and Iona for the following day, before heading back to the Distillery for the tour.
From the distillery I walked back to the station to pick up the City Sightseeing tour. The bus arrived 20 minutes before the tour was due to start and slowly started to fill up. 14:00, the departure time came and the driver went to switch the engine on, but was met with the sound of a very flat battery. He made several attempts to get the bus working before a mechanic turned up to try and get it started, which he did, for a short while before the engine once again died. So instead of getting a 2 ½ hour tour of Oban instead I got a warm enclosed top deck of a bus for 40 minutes in which to sit out a massive belt of rain that suddenly hit.
With the rain cleared and the bus officially declared broken, I headed back to the station to pick up my bags and walk over to my hotel to checkin, dropped my stuff off and then headed back into town to visit McCaigs tower.
Having taken in the views I then headed down to the harbour to go on an evening cruise around the islands out to Mull and back. On the way out I stood up on deck and took in the views, including a spectacular rainbow over the stern of the ship, on the way back the weather closed in fast and I took shelter in the restaurant taking the opportunity to also have dinner.
By the time we finally got back into port (and we were delayed somewhat by the strong head winds and choppy seas) it was starting to get dark so I walked back along the prom to the hotel to get an early nights sleep.
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I walked down to the ferry terminal to catch the boat out to Mull for the tour, but at the ticket gate I was told that my tour had been cancelled as the seas around Staffa were too rough to allow a landing to take place, so I had to quickly pop downstairs and purchase tickets for the alternative tour of just Mull and Iona and arrange to pop back into the tour shop the following day to arrange a refund.
Having been out and back to Mull the previous day I was aware of where the disembarkation point would be so I was able to be first off of the ship and get the choice of seats on the coach for the tour of Mull. The tour runs along the southern part of the Island, through the hills and mountains down to the port at Fionnphort , through some of the most dramatic scenery the island has to offer.
On arrival at Fionnphort there was some uncertainty as to whether we would be able to get over to Iona. The rough seas that had put pay to the Staffa ferry from here were also threatening the much larger Iona ferry, but in the end they did run the service, albeit on a pretty rough crossing.
Having arrived on Iona I wandered up the tourist route through the ruins of the nunnery and past the cemetery, including the grave of former Labour party leader John Smith, to the Abbey to have a look around that.
From there I had a bit more of a wander around this part of the island, but time was limited as we had to be back on the ferry before 3, so I headed down to the harbour to grab a late lunch before catching the 2:30, very rough, crossing back over to Mull. The coach was already waiting when I got off the ferry, with about half the tour party, as we’d all taken a look at the crossing and realised it was getting worse. The final members of the tour did come across on the 3pm and they were looking much worse for having caught the later crossing.
The coach went back across Mull through the highlands and back to the ferry port just in time for the arrival of the Oban ferry.
Having arrived back in Oban I had a bit of a wander around town before stopping for a bite to eat in an Indian restaurant then heading back to the hotel.
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I had about three hours to spare before my train so I decided to head out to Dunstaffnage castle, about 3 miles out of town. Whilst there are hourly busses I had just missed one and the next one wouldn’t have left me with enough time to look around, so I grabbed a cab instead.
I had a long wander around the site taking in both the castle and the ruins of the chapel before heading back into town to pick up my stuff and catch the train back to Glasgow.
The train ride back was if anything more spectacular as it was sunny so there was much more to see, on the way down some of the mountains had been a little obscured by the pounding rain.
We eventually pulled into Queen Street station a little after 16:00, I wandered the short distance up the hill to the bus station and picked up the bus back to the airport and my uneventful and thankfully on time flight home.
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I grabbed a bite to eat near the station and then wandered back to stand on the concourse for a while before the train was finally called.
Given that it was half seven at night I though the train was going to be relatively empty, but I was proved wrong as by the time we finally pulled out of the station every seat had been taken and people were standing in the aisles.
The number of people on-board meant that it took longer than scheduled at each station and by the time we finally pulled into Ipswich we were five minutes late.
I emerged from the station into a late evening drizzle which had just started and slowly got worse as I walked towards the hotel.
After checking in and dropping off my stuff I went for a wander around the harbour side and the town. Unfortunately, a wet Friday night is not the best time to see Ipswich and I didn’t have the greatest impressions of the town so I headed back to the hotel for an early night.
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Having had a look around that I went for a bit more of a wander before I realised I had pretty much exhausted all Ipswich had to offer so I headed over to the station.
I caught the train out to the nearby Cathedral town of Bury St Edmunds and had a long wander around there taking in the Abbey gardens and ruins of the Abbey as well as the Cathedral and town centre.
From there I caught the train back into Ipswich and then out to Lowestoft to have a look around there. Unfortunately, I quickly realised that there wasn’t much to Lowestoft (once you’ve gone to the Eastern most point in Britain you’ve pretty much done the town), so I wandered back to the station and rather than wait nearly two hours for a train back to Ipswich, caught the train up through the broads to Norwich, which made for an interesting ride.
After stopping for dinner in Norwich I caught the train back down to Ipswich, had a final wander around the town centre and headed back to the hotel.
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I had a long wander around the fort, taking in all there was to see, and the caught the bus back into Felixstowe for a quick look around there.
From Felixstowe it was back on the bus into Ipswich and a wander down to the harbour side for a very late lunch.
After lunch I had a bit more of a wander around the town, by chance stumbling upon the ruins of the medieval Dominican friary.
Then it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bags and make my way back to the station for the train home.
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Sure enough almost to the minute the gate was advertised as opening we were called forward to board.
Of course not everything can be as smooth as this, and we then proceeded to sit at the gate for 15 minutes waiting for a take-off slot due to congestion. However, only 15 minutes late we took off for a uneventful flight down to Stuttgart.
With a quick journey through the airport and a relatively speedy journey into the city centre I found myself at the hotel just before 8pm. Having checked in and dropped off my stuff I headed back out into town.
When I had visited a couple of years back the TV tower had been closed for refurbishment, but it was open today so I headed out over there, the stadtbahn still winding its way perilously up the hills.
By the time I got to the top of the tower there was the end of a stunning sunset bathing the city in a warm red glow. I took a few photos whilst watching the light finally disappear from over the city, then popped down a floor to the Panorama Café for a bite to eat before heading back to the stadtbahn (they are not trams, but there also not U-Bahns!) stop and catching the train back to the hotel.
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From the castle I caught the bus back into town and the wandered over to the station to take in the views from the top of its tower. They still have their exhibition about the massive changes they are hoping to make to the central station, but recent news and the slight issue of money appear to have taken the shine, and likelihood of completion, off of the project.
From the station I wandered down Königstraße and through the palace gardens to the impressive Neues Schloß. Unfortunately, this massive palace is still in use (albeit by the state rather than any royals.) However the next door Alt Schloß is now home to the Baden-Württemberg state museum so I popped in there for a look around.
Having done all of that my feet were feeling a little tired, so I decided to rest them for a short while by taking the Stuttgart tour. Run by the local bus and tram company the multilingual tour runs over two routes that operate as a figure of 8 over the city. The Blue tour takes off towards the north and on its return becomes the red tour to do a southern circuit.
I did both tours and by then was feeling suitably refreshed so I went for a wander around the city centre, eventually finding myself walking through some of the parks that for a U around the city centre.
By the time I finally left the Killesberg Park it was getting quite dark. However, by pure chance, I exited quite close to a U-Bahn stop with a train going straight back to the hotel.
Given that I’d grabbed a bite to eat in one of the café’s in the park I took that as a sign and went back to the hotel for an early night.
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By the time the bus completed its tour it was time to head back through the castle gardens to the train station, pick up my bags and make my way to Heidelberg.
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A lot of trains were leaving from the wrong platform, which is always fun to watch in Germany. Eventually mine left, from the correct platform, but five minutes late.
The whole way to Heidelberg the guard was apologising for the delay, which makes a change from British trains where you only get that once you’re past the hour mark! From Heidelberg station it was a short walk round to the hotel to drop my stuff off then back to the station and out towards Dilsberg.
The small town is located on the top of a hill overlooking the Neckar Valley, and built around the ruins of its castle.
After taking in the sights of Dilsberg I headed back to Heidelberg and had a long wander around the city centre, stopping for a bite to eat in the market square.
I meandered down to the riverside and across the old bridge to the other bank to take in the stunning views of the castle complex reflecting the setting sun.
After a bit more wandering it was time to head back to the hotel.
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In addition to looking around the outside of the castle, I also took one of the guided tours of the inside, and then went for a wander through the castle gardens.
With a late lunch inside me I headed down into town and over the river to the hills on the other side.
I went for a very long walk up to the top of the Heiligenberg which has several sights at the top, not least of all the view over the castle.
I had to spend a bit of time hiding in a beer-Keller towards the top as the weather decided to choose that point to break into a spectacular thunder storm.
Having survived the storm and finished off taking in the sights I descended back down to the Old town and stopped for a bite to eat, before wandering back over the river to take some pictures of the castle and the old town at night.
Exhausted I headed back to the hotel for a well-earned rest.
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I ended up down by the river with about 10 minutes to spare before one of the river cruises set off so I boarded that for an hours cruise past the old town. The ship I used was proudly boasting about being the largest solar powered ship on a river in Germany.
By the time we got back to the landing stage it was time to wander my way back to the station, collect my stuff and head off to stop 3, Mainz.
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We did move off after a couple of minutes, but by then we had lost quite a bit of time, and we eventually pulled into Mainz a quarter of an hour late.
The hotel was located right next to the station so after a quick check-in I was back out and on a bus into the city centre.
I had a bit of a wander around the city centre and then went to have a look around the Cathedral. Unfortunately, I’d arrived just after the museums had closed, but I was still able to wander around the Cathedral itself. Considering it’s over 1,000 years old it’s in pretty good nick.
I left the cathedral and was just in time to catch the last “Guttenberg Express” land train of the evening for a tour around the city centre taking in the main sights.
After the tour I had a bit more of a wander around, grabbing a bite to eat on the way before I heard the ominous sound of thunder rumbling in the distance.
I managed to get back to the hotel with about 10 minutes to spare before the skies absolutely opened with lightning darting across the sky in all directions, and from my hotel window the view of lots of people getting awfully wet.
The storm raged for the best part of two hours, by which point I decided I might as well just head to bed for the night.
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From there it was a short walk around the corner to the Roman and German museum and after that a quick walk through town to go to St Stephen’s church to see the Chagall windows.
Then down the hill to the ruins of the Roman Theatre, unfortunately, they were in the process of doing further digging at the site (they have taken up a whole street and are working their way back towards a church uncovering more of this massive site) so I was unable to go in, but could look through the fence at the substantial remains.
After a quick pit stop for lunch I wandered over to one of the many shopping centres in the city. Not to go shopping, but to look at more Roman remains. When they were building the centre they uncovered an old temple, and rather than cover it up they incorporated it into the basement of the shopping centre.
As it was getting quite warm, I decided I would head down to the river for a little walk (and an ice cream!) By the time I had finished my walk along the river bank it was time to head back into town for some dinner.
After dinner I had a bit more of a wander taking in some of the main sights at night, before heading back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
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Having taken in the museum there was just enough time for one final Roman site, so I wandered up to the remains of the old Roman gate and wall. Very little still remains other than the course of the wall being picked out by buildings, but as it’s at the top of the hill that overlooks the city the views were pretty good.
Then it was time to head back down into town, pick up my luggage and catch the train out to Koblenz.
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From the station I walked the kilometre or so down to the hotel, checked in , dropped off my stuff and then headed back out down to the riverside in the direction of the Deutsches Eck. When I had visited last, just over a year earlier, there had been lots of building work going on, in preparation for Koblenz’s hosting of the 2011 German National Horticultural Show which was now in full swing. Unfortunatly it also meant that I couldn’t just wander down the edge of the Rhine to get to the Eck as part of the show was in the way, so instead I went for a long wander through the old town, and down to the edge of the Mosel and walk along the river bank there to get to the Eck.
I took in the views from the Eck and had a quick climb up the Kaiser Wilhelm monument to take in the views from there.
I then went for a bit more of a wander through the old town, visiting the Liebfraukirche before stopping for a bite to eat.
After dinner I had a bit more of a wander, including getting back down to the Eck just as the sun was setting behind the Mosel, then it was time to head back to the hotel and bed.
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The show is based over three sites in the city, two the Electors palace and the space behind the Deutsches Eck almost next door to each other. The third was up on the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress which overlooks Koblenz from the other side of the Rhine.
I spent most of the morning taking in the gardens in the Electors palace and then wandered down towards the Deutsches Eck. I stopped there for a quick lunch, and then took advantage of the free boat trip included in my ticket to sail up the river to the small town of Stolzenfels and have a look around the castle there.
After looking round the castle I caught the boat back to the Deutsches Eck and then picked up the Cable Car to take me up to the Ehrenbreitstein fortress. I had a very quick look round part of the site, but it was so large I was going to need the whole of Sunday to do it justice, so instead I hopped back on the cable card down to the Deutsches Eck and was in time to watch a concert being given by a German Beatles tribute band.
By the time the concert had finished it was getting quite late so I wandered back through town to my hotel and bed.
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There are two ways to reach the view point. An hours stiff uphill climb, or 20 minutes sitting in a chairlift all the way to the top. Needless to say it didn’t take much encouragement to get into the lift.
Having taken in the views I headed back into Koblenz and up to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress to take in both the museums up there and the remainder of the garden festival that I hadn’t already seen.
I spent a long time wandering around the museums and the site, and in the end only just caught the last shuttle bus of the evening back down into town.
Exhausted from a long day’s meandering I headed back to the hotel to pack and then get a good night’s sleep.
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After completing the tour I wondered over to the Kastor Basilica to have a look round there, and then went on the old town sightseeing land train.
Then it was time to head back to the hotel, grab my stuff and make my way to the station.
I had left myself nearly an hour to do this, which I thought might have been excessive, but the hotel were having real problems with their computer system and in the end it took nearly 20 minutes to check me out (and charge the €3 for the one beer I’d had in the bar – kind of think was it worth the effort)
Thankfully, I got to the station with about 15 minutes to spare so I didn’t have to run for the train.
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I walked the short distance to the hotel and checked in and then headed out into the city, just as most museums were closing for the evening.
Thankfully, the RömerExpress land train tour was still running, so I was able to take that and get an overview of the city.
After the tour I had a long wander around the old town, eventually ending up outside the basilica where I discovered a very nice restaurant so I had a spot of dinner there, before going for a bit more of a walk, taking in some of the city sights in the fading light, then headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
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First stop of the morning was the castle, on the hill above the town. It’s only visible on a guided tour and I was early enough to get onto the first tour of the morning.
Having completed the tour I headed back down into town and the caught the chairlift that goes up to the hill on the opposite side of town for stunning views over the town centre, the castle and this particular stretch of the Mosel.
I had about an hour to kill before the train I’d booked onto back to Trier so I had a long wander around the city centre, which was slowly becoming impassable because of the tour groups, so I took that as my queue to head back to the station.
Back in Trier I wandered down to the Porta Nigra and was in time to get the open-top hop-on-hop-off bus for its tour. As it was so hot, and sitting on the open top deck was so refreshing, I did two circuits (as a lot of other people were doing). By the time I finally got back to Porta Nigra the temperature was starting to fall a bit and the air was a bit fresher.
I walked the, very, short distance to the Porta Nigra and had a look round that, then it was time for a spot of dinner, a long wander around the city centre and then bed.
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First on this list was the Ampthetheatre, located just on the edge of the city centre. Having looked round that I hopped back on the bus and round a couple of stops to the Basilica and then the Imperial Baths.
From the Imperial Baths it was a short walk to the Viehmarkt baths in their glass cube. Final set of baths of the afternoon were the remains of the Barbara baths. These were in the process of undergoing conservation, so you could only view them from a single viewing platform on the edge of the sit.
The Baths are near the Römerbrücke, the largest, and oldest standing roman bridge north of the Alps. It’s quite amazing to watch modern cars drive over something that was built by the Romans nearly 2,000 years ago.
I went for a wander along the banks of the Mosel down to the Zurlaubener embankment, where I was just in time to catch a boat for a short cruise down the Mosel and back.
From the river I walked back through town and was in time to have a quick look round the cathedral before it closed for the evening.
Then it was back to the hotel to freshen up, before popping back out for a bite to eat and then bed.
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First stop of the morning was the Landesmuseum, which houses many of the Roman finds that have been discovered around the city, including some pretty impressive funeral monuments.
I headed back towards the city museum, but stopped off briefly in the market church to have a quick look around.
The city museum is housed in the cloisters for the church that was at one point housed in the Porta Nigra. I spent quite a bit of time looking around, and in the end had to rush the last couple of galleries as I needed to get back to the hotel and pick up my luggage.
I walked the short distance back to the station, arriving with about 15 minutes to spare before the longest journey of my trip.
The train ride from Trier to Cologne is actually quickest done going via Koblenz, but there are direct trains, which at over 3 hours are a much slower way of getting there, but the views as the weave their way through the foothills of the Eifel are worth the journey.
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Having checked in and freshen up I went for a short walk around the cathedral area and then over the bridge to Deutz and up the Triangle tower to take in the views.
Then it was back over the bridge to one of the restaurants by the riverside for a spot of dinner, another wander around the cathedral area and then back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
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By the time I arrived in Aachen it was already close to lunchtime so I grabbed a bite to eat in one of the café’s around the tourist information centre. After lunch I was in time to catch the afternoon open-top bus tour of the city and out to the border area.
About 5Km outside of the city the Belgium, Dutch and German borders all meet and there is a small monument to this, which has turned into quite a big tourist operation. The bus stopped for 20 minutes there so I was able to have a quick look around and have a wander over the border into both The Netherlands and Belgium.
The bus was a bit delayed on its journey back due to a traffic jam in the small part of The Netherlands it had to pass through, so it was gone three by the time I was back in the city centre.
There was enough time to have a wander around the Cathedral before it was time to head back through the town to the station and catch my train back to Cologne.
I dropped my stuff off at the hotel and had a bit of a wander around the Rhine promenade before wandering back towards the Cathedral. To my surprise at gone 8:30 it was still open to visitors so I had a long look round, until they started closing it down just before 9.
I went for a long wander round the old part of the city before heading back to the hotel for a well-earned rest.
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I eventually found myself out by the cable car so I took that across the Rhine and then had a long wander around the park on the opposite side of the river.
From there I caught the bus back into town and got some exercise in by climbing the 500 or so steps up to the top of the cathedral tower to take in the views.
Having climbed all the way back down I decided it would be a good time to grab an early dinner and then head back to the hotel for a quiet night and to make a start on the packing for the journey home.
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The town is home to a spectacular set of palaces built for the bishop elector, the main palace near the railway station was the formal home, and during the period of West Germany was used as the location for formal state banquets.
This palace is linked to the smaller hunting lodge around 2KMs away by a set of formal gardens.
I spent most of the day wandering around the site, and pretty soon it was time to head back into the town centre, pick up my luggage and make my way out to the airport and the journey home.
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In the end the riots earlier in the week made that considerably easier as work had decided to close early each day, just in case. So shortly after 2pm I found myself at home packing my bags and preparing for a leisurely saunter up to Euston.
I arrive in Birmingham a little after 7, walked down to the hotel and checked in.
If my home town had been the graphic video images of burning buildings for the English riots, then Birmingham hadn’t been close behind, and the scars in the city centre were pretty obvious with lots of boarded up windows.
Having grabbed a bite to eat I wandered back to the hotel for a quiet night’s sleep
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Earlier in the week the Home Secretary had banned a march through Wellington by the far right (and supposedly not racist) English defence league. Despite their march being banned a very large number of members were still going to Wellington to have a “Static demonstration” and most of them had boarded the train I was on. In spite of the heavy police presence it was a scary environment, and in spite of all the claims of their leadership, the members present were clearly demonstrating some particularly “non-diversity-friendly” language (to the extent that a couple of them were hauled off the train by police at Smethwick because of the language they were using). It was only 45 minutes to Telford, but it was an unpleasant 45 minutes.
Having got off the train and left the racists to continue on to Wellington (where a fair number were subsequently arrested for drunken behaviour and minor public disorder offences), I wandered over to the bus stop and caught the bus up into the town centre to the bus station. There it was a 40 minute wait for the next bus to Ironbridge so by the time I arrived at the hotel it was just before 2.
I checked in, dropped off all my stuff and went for a wander.
First stop was, naturally, the Iron Bridge, and next door to it the gift shop where I was able to purchase the Ironbridge gorge passport which would give me access to all the sites, and free travel over the weekend.
I wandered over the bridge and had a look around the Toll House which has a small exhibition on the history of the bridge. From there I walked back over to the town and picked up the bus down the gorge to Coalport and the Tar tunnel.
Having taken in the wonders of the Tar tunnel I walked the short distance along the canal to the china works and had a look round there.
Then it was back on the bus and round to Jackfield to take in the tile museum before finishing off with an early evening wander back along the Severn the mile or so from Jackfield to the Ironbridge following the course of the old railway.
I had a quick pit stop before going for a short wander around Ironbridge itself and then heading back to the hotel for dinner.
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I spent the whole of the morning wandering around the site, stopping for lunch there, before catching the bus back over to Coalbrookdale and one of the most important industrial sites in the world.
The Old furnace at Coalbrookdale is where Abraham Darby perfected the use of coke in smelting, and with it creating vast quantities of cheap strong Iron. The whole of the industrial revolution can be traced back to this one small part of what is now rural Shropshire.
Along with the furnace itself I had a look around the museum of Iron and the Darby Houses before leaping back on the penultimate bus of the day down to the museum of the Gorge in Ironbridge to have a look around that.
After looking around the museum I was just in time to catch the last scenic cruise up the Severn for the evening, which included being able to see a Kingfisher feeding in the river.
From the mooring point I wandered back to the hotel for a very nice dinner before heading out to take some photos of Ironbridge at night, and then back to the hotel and bed.
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Admittedly that time was the 1st to 5th centuries AD, but then Wroxeter was one of the five most important cities in Roman Britain. Today only parts of the bath house and elements of the forum remain, but they are enough to give you an idea about the scale of the site.
Having looked around Wroxeter I caught the bus on into Shrewsbury to have a look around the town, taking in the museum and a cruise around the curve of the Severn that marks out the city centre.
I then wandered over to the Abbey to have a look around the remains, before coming back to the castle to take in the views from the top of the tower.
After stopping for a late afternoon coffee in the town centre it was time to wander back to the bus station and catch the bus back to Ironbridge, dinner and bed.
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I checked out and took my bag with me to the bus stop to catch the bus a bit further along the river Severn to the small town of Bridgnorth.
The town now has a thriving tourist industry based on being the northern end of the Severn Valley Railway, which has recreated the experience of heritage railway, even down to the exceptionally friendly and helpful booking clerk at Bridgnorth station who offered to look after my bag for the day so I didn’t have to lump it around with me.
I brought a rover ticket and spent quite a bit of the day taking in the scenery of the Severn Valley before ending up back at Bridgnorth mid-afternoon.
I had a long wander around the upper and lower towns before realising that the bus back to Ironbridge, to catch the bus back to Telford to catch the train back to Birmingham was in five minutes and my luggage was still at the station, 10 minute’s walk away.
Thankfully, I had already checked the timetable and realised that in the likely event of this happening I would have to admit to wasting £6 on the ticket from Telford to Birmingham and would have to buy myself a new ticket from Kidderminster, but it did mean that I could start my journey home on a steam train.
So a little after 3:30 the train pulled out of Bridgnorth station starting my, smooth and uneventful journey home.
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The flight was very smooth, with an almost cloudless sky across Europe there were stunning views and we followed the Seine from the coast and past Paris, then down over Lake Geneva and the Swiss Alps before flying down the West coast of Italy and the final approach into Naples.
Unfortunately, we’d been battling with a headwind the whole way down, and by the time we landed we were 15 minutes late. In spite of a really quick journey through immigration and baggage reclaim, it still meant I missed the bus to Sorrento by a matter of minutes. So I had to wander over to the café in front of the airport terminal building and have a very slow cup of coffee in the 90 minutes I had to wait.
The bus left on time, straight into the Friday evening Neapolitan traffic so it was a pretty slow journey for much of the way down, though once beyond the sprawl of modern Naples the views over the coast were stunning. However, by the time the bus finally arrived 20 minutes late into Sorrento it was already dark, so I didn’t get to see much of the final descent down into the town.
I walked the short distance from the bus station to the apartment I had rented, checked in and then headed out for a short wander around the town.
I stopped in the main central square and was in time to get one of the last land train tours of the evening around the city centre and down to the port.
After completing the tour I popped into a nearby restaurant for a late dinner, before finishing off with a walk back to the apartment, stopping off at the park near the complex that overlooks the bay.
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At Ercolano station I caught the Vesuvius Express coach up to the car park at the base of the summit and then walked up to the edge of the crater (which was quite a hefty walk in the hot sun). Having taken in the crater and the stunning views of the bay of Naples, I descended back down and caught the bus back into Ercolano.
From the station I walked down to the towns other claim to fame, the ruins of the Roman city of Herculaneum, destroyed in the same eruption that did for Pompeii.
Whilst Pompeii was pretty much destroyed by the pyroclastic flow of superheated gases and ash, Herculaneum succumbed to a torrent of lava and mud that swept down the side of the volcano.
I had a very long wander around the site before finally heading back to the station and catching the train back to Sorrento.
By the time I got back to Sorrento it was getting close to sunset, so I wandered down to the harbour to watch the sun set and then had a very pleasant meal in a harbour side restaurant, before staggering back under the weight of pasta to the apartment.
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Unable to get back to sleep I got up just after 7 and by 8 was having breakfast in a little café near the station.
I caught an early train out to Pompei and found myself at the site ahead of the worst of the crowds, albeit by virtue of being at the back of the train and slightly faster down the staircase at the station than the very large Saga party that had occupied most of the rest of the train.
The site is massive and in the end I spent the whole day wandering around taking in all the key sites from the Forum area up to the Villa dei Misteri and then all the way across the site to the Amphitheatre.
I’d stopped early, around 11am, for lunch, as at that time the café was empty, and I knew that wouldn’t be the case an hour later. By half four I was starting to flag a bit, so on my way back to the station I popped into a café for a late bite to eat and a drink.
By the time the train, which appeared to have some serious technical problems as it kept slamming its breaks on, finally arrived back into Sorrento it was nearly seven so I quickly wandered back to the hotel, dropped off my stuff, had a quick wash to get at least a couple of the layers of suntan cream encrusted with dust off of my skin, and then headed back out for a light dinner.
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A smooth crossing and straight off the boat into the hordes of touts trying to sell you taxi tours, car rental, scooter rental, restaurants (even before 10am!), boat hire and boat trips. I had already done my research so I knew I wanted to go on one of the boat trips out to the blue grotto, and before I’d left England I’d checked on line so I knew the name of the company that was offering the best deal. Unfortunately for them, it was their tout who got to me first and desperate to make a sale (I don’t think very many punters were biting) gave me a discount on the rate (only 50 cents, but I let him believe it was enough to persuade me!)
The tour set out from the harbour round to the blue grotto where an interesting in-sea boat transfer takes place from the motor launch into the very small row boats that fit through the tiny gap into the cave. You only get a couple of minutes in the cave (which for the price they charge makes it incredibly expensive), but it is stunning.
The boat dropped us back in the harbour as another ship from the mainland was landing at a different jetty; consequently our landing stage was devoid of touts so I was able to wander out of the harbour unmolested.
I popped to the transport kiosk and brought a day ticket for the bus and then joined the quite long queue for the bus to Anacapri. The queue may have been long, and the bus tiny, but it possessed Tardidic qualities to swallow up passengers. It meant I didn’t have the most comfortable of journeys standing on the exit door steps, but it did mean I had a first class view of the journey up the mountain to Anacapri, the stunning switchback roads and at times the sensation that you were actually flying over the island rather than still being connected to it.
In Anacapri I had a quick look around the town, and then caught the chairlift up to the highest point on the island the summit of Monte Solero. It took about 15 minutes to make the journey up and with all the noise of the town fading away, and just the squeak of the wheels on the support columns it was incredibly peaceful. From the summit the views over the island and across the bay of Naples were simply stunning.
Having descended I caught the bus out to the far end of the island at Faro to have a quick look around, there wasn’t much to see other than a lighthouse that’s still in use and therefore closed to the public, and a beach. I headed back to Anacapri and then caught the bus into the main town of Capri to have a look around there. Compared to Anacapri, Capri is incredibly busy, very expensive and defiantly more a place where people come to be seen. I had a short wander around the centre, but after the pleasantness of Anacapri and the quietness of Faro I couldn’t warm to the place so, with a boat back to Sorrento leaving within 30 minutes, I caught a bus back down to the harbour and made my way back to Sorrento.
I had a quick stop for a late afternoon snack in a café on the beach near the harbour and then went for a wander around the town centre for a short while, before heading back to the flat to freshen up and then back out for dinner in a little restaurant just round the corner form the apartment block.
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The tour took nearly two hours so by time I was back in the centre of town I was in time to catch a bus out to Amalfi. Only problem was the 11:30 appeared to have been cancelled (or never existed) and the queue for the 12:00 was pretty impressive. I joined the back of it, not expecting really to get on. 12:00 came and went with no sign of a service, then just before 12:15 a bus going to Amalfi pulled in and the queue started piling into it. In the end I missed getting on that bus by about 6 people, but looking at how packed it was, and the thought of standing for nearly two hours, I was quite glad I’d missed it.
Thankfully, the 12:30 was running, and it turned up only about ten minutes after the previous one had left, so for an extra 10 minutes standing at the bus stop in the sun with a breeze I had a very comfortable, seated journey with the pick of windows, so I was able to get a very big picture window for the journey.
The road from Sorrento to Amalfi is spectacular, winding its way perilously along the side of the cliffs, hanging out over the sea with lots of tight bends and the bus drivers flinging their buses round them without a care in the world and a cheerful toot on their horns before they start just to let those coming in the other direction that death was coming in the shape of a large blue coach.
Having arrived in Amalfi and taken in some of the sights of the city centre I headed over to the second city sightseeing tour of the day, this time in an open-top minibus to continue along the coast to the towns of Minori and Maiori. Having completed that tour I then caught the third tour of the day, again in an open top minibus up to the town of Ravello.
I had a long wander round Ravello, and stopped for a very late lunch in a little café perched on the side of the hill overlooking Minori, Maiori and the coastline further south. Then it was time to start the journey back to Amalfi and then onto Sorrento.
For the journey back I was in the front seat so I had a spectacular, and at times hair-raising journey, the number of near misses was unbelievable, also slightly concerning was the sight of the driving crossing himself and clearly saying a quick prayer before each really tight turn. Beyond Positano and along the windiest bit of the route we were travelling in the dying light of the sun, and by the time we came off of the coast road it was almost completely dark.
We finally pulled into Sorrento just before 8, so I wandered down towards the flat to have dinner in a little restaurant there, before heading back to the apartment to pack.
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I had several hours to spare before my flight so after dropping my bags off in the luggage office at the station I caught the metro up to the Museum of Archaeology.
The museum is home to many of the treasures from Pompei and Herculaneum as well as from many other Roman sites around Italy, and I spent a couple of hours wandering through the parts of it that were open (a fair number of galleries were closed for renovation)
Having looked round the museum I wandered the short distance down to the Cathedral and had a look round that before it was time to head back to the station, collect my luggage and head to the airport for the journey home.
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After taking in most of the South bay I walked back up through town to the hotel and headed to bed for an early night.
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I had a long wander round the ruins and the headland that it stands on and then went for a wander through town ending up by the railway station just as the bus to Whitby was pulling in.
As I didn’t have much else planned I hopped on the bus and caught it up the coast to Robin Hood’s Bay to have a look around there, and then a little later picked the bus up from there on up to Whitby.
I had a long wander along the beach and up over the West cliffs before heading back to the centre of town to catch the last bus of the evening back to Scarborough.
After a spot of dinner I had another wander along the prom before heading back to the hotel and bed.
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If yesterday had been heading North up the coast, today it was south as I purchased a ticket to explore the North Yorkshire coast down as far as the Humber.
First stop was Filey and a quick wander around town and along the beach, arriving in time to watch the odd sight of one of the small fishing boats being towed out of the sea and onto the slipway using a tractor.
From Filey I continued south to the resort town of Bridlington and had a look around there, before continuing my journey south to Beverley
After a look around the Market town and it’s Minster it was time to head south again, this time to Hull where I had the choice of a 40 minute change of trains or two hours to look round. However, as sunset was less than an hour away, I decided to leave Hull for another day and caught the train back towards York.
I was glad I did as I got some stunning views of the Humber estuary and the magnificent Humber crossing from the train.
By the time I got back to York it was late, but I decided the eating options were probably better here than in Scarborough (there is only so many fish and chip suppers you can stomach) so I grabbed dinner in a restaurant down by the river.
After dinner I headed back to the station and caught a latish train back to Scarborough and my hotel bed.
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From the North bay I had a wander through the Peasholm Park round to the aquarium and then climbed up onto the headland at Scaby Mills for some stunning views of the North bay and the North Yorkshire coast.
Wandering back down to the park I caught the North bay railway back to the parks main entrance and then hopped back on an open-top bus back to the harbour.
I brought a ticket for the next cruise out into the bay and had enough time to spare for a quick lunch before setting sail.
The cruise travelled south down almost to Filey and then headed back to the harbour.
From the harbour I walked along the South Bay to the Spa theatre and seeing there was some stand up comedy on that evening enquired as to whether they had any tickets left. With one of the last tickets of the gig secured I wandered back through town to grab an early dinner, before heading back to the theatre for an evening of comedy.
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I had a quick look around the town centre and then headed over to the main attraction of the town, it’s stunning castle.
I had a long look around the ruins before heading back into town to grab a bite to eat.
My next stop would normally have been a three mile walk along country lanes, but, thankfully, the Moorsbus service was still running for the season so I was able to catch the only bus of the afternoon out to Rievaulx Abbey.
I was worried that the 2 and a half hours that I had until the return bus might be too long, but in the end it was just about right to have a good look around the site, and grab a late cup of tea in the tea shop before heading back to Helmsley.
My bus back to Scarborough bounced through the edge of the Moors in the fading light and by the time I got back to Scarborough it was dark.
I had another wander through the town and down by the sea front before heading back to the hotel to pack.
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I had originally intended on visiting here when I was in Leeds at the start of the year, but the main reason for visiting, the Petrifying well and Mother Shipton’s Cave weren’t open at the time so I didn’t bother.
After arriving in the town I had a bit of a wander around taking in the church and the ruins of the castle before heading down to the riverside and the cave and well.
Having made my wish in the wishing well and witnessed children’s toys slowly turn to stone, I wandered back through the town and stopped off at a very nice riverside pub for a late lunch, before heading back to the station to start my journey home.
I got back to York with a little over 90 minutes to spare before my train back to London so I had a bit of a wander around the city centre before wandering back to the station, picking up my luggage and heading back home.
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Unfortunately, on a completely full flight on a Friday evening this meant there wasn’t enough space for everyone’s bags, and consequently some grown adults were having temper tantrums with each other. In the end, by the time some of the luggage had been forcibly extracted from the grips of passengers and put in the hold, we were late for our slot and had to tuck in behind a couple of other flights to be able to get away.
Before we even started taxing the pilot warned us that it was going to be a bit of a bumpy flight, and he wasn’t half wrong. Most of the way we bounced through the sky, with the poor cabin crew trying to serve drinks and snacks.
In spite of the turbulence, the head wind and the late start, we managed to touch down in Edinburgh only five minutes late. I’d sat at the back of the plane, so by the time I finally disembarked and got down to the baggage belt my bag was just in the process of appearing on the belt, so I grabbed it and from being the last passenger off the flight was pretty much the first one in the taxi queue.
15 minutes later I was checked into my hotel and getting ready for a good nights sleep.
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After a leisurely and very large breakfast I headed out of the hotel to the station, and caught the train into Edinburgh.
First stop of the morning was Carlton Hill. An area I had gone past on so many occasions previously but never bothered visiting, which is a shame as the views over Edinburgh are some of the most stunning. I had a long wander around the top of the Hill, taking in the views from the top of the Nelson Tower.
I then wandered down the hill and along to Holyrood Palace, another place I had not visited before, in spite having been through Edinburgh on a number of occasions.
After taking in the palace I wandered over to Our Dynamic Earth to have a look around that and then wandered up the Royal Mile to the castle, just in time to reach it as it was being closed as the winds had become so strong.
I had a long wander around the city centre, including a walk around the city’s German Christmas market, before heading back up to Carlton Hill to take in some views of the city at night, with the flood lights and Christmas lights out.
By now the weather had deteriorated to strong winds and increasingly heavy rain, so I retreated back to the station and caught the train back to the hotel, warmth, a good meal and a stunning bath.
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After dropping my bags off in the lockers at the bus station I headed back into town to have a wander around before heading over for the tour of Mary King’s Close that I’d booked the previous day, and had thankfully been able to rearrange in my cold hour waiting.
From the Close I headed over to the Scottish National Museum and spent much of the afternoon having a look around.
From the museum I headed over to the Art Gallery to have a look around there and then a quick wander around the Christmas market before it was time to collect my bags and head to the airport.
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After breakfast I caught the bus out to Exceat and the start of the walk up over the seven sisters chalk formation.
It was quite a lot longer walk than I had originally expected, especially as the seven sisters are quite a lot steeper than I thought.
Just after midday I reached the National Trust tearoom at Birling Gap and stopped for a quite bite to eat and a cup of coffee. Fortified I headed off for the next leg of the walk, up past the Belle Tout lighthouse and then the big climb up to Beach Head, the highest chalk sea cliff in the country.
By the time I got to Beachy Head it was gone two so I popped into the pub for a late lunch. After lunch I remembered that it was actually December and not the middle of summer, and consequently, mid-afternoon is not actually far off from sunset and with the sun already hidden behind the cliffs it was distinctly cooler than it had been earlier.
I walked down from Beachy head getting back into town just as the sun was starting to set and had a nice walk along the prom and then an explore along the pier.
As I came back up the pier I could see the most stunning moon-rise coming up from the East and I watched that for a while before heading back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out to meet my friends for dinner.
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From Pevensey I got back on the next bus and continued on into Hastings. I had a long wander around the town, climbing up to the top of the west cliff only to discover that whilst the castle and the other attractions at the top were closed, the lift wasn’t
Having taken the lift back down I caught the next bus that was coming and continued along the coast through the town of Winchelsea and down into the Cinque port of Rye.
Today Rye is a couple of miles from the coast and consequently a quiet but historic little town. I had a long wander around, including climbing the tower of the church to take in the views, before it was time to head back towards the railway station to catch the train back to Eastbourne.
By the time I got back to Eastbourne it was already dark, so I headed back to the hotel, freshened up and then popped out for a bite to eat, before heading to bed for an early night.
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We arrived in Frankfurt to a fair dusting of snow, though rapidly melting. After being bussed to the terminal and getting through to arrivals I got to the station just in time to miss the train and have to wait 20 minutes for the next one, which in the height of the rush hour was heaving.
Thankfully, from the station it was only a very short walk to the hotel where, after several issues, I eventually checked into a room that had everything in it working.
After checking in I wandered out into town to have a look around, taking in the Christmas market and grabbing dinner there.
After a long wander around I headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
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I spent most of the morning and a fair part of the afternoon wandering around the site at Saalburg and then the town of Bad Homburg before heading back into Frankfurt to take in more of the Christmas markets.
I then had a wander along the riverside to take in the stunning views of the city before heading back to the Christmas market to grab some dinner before a final wander along the riverside and then back to the hotel
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After having a long wander around the museum I took in the St Pauls Kirche before spending the bulk of the early evening finishing off some Christmas shopping in the Christmas market and grabbing a bite to eat there.
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I did the full circuit of the tour by which time the cloud had lifted and I was able to get the lift to the top of the Main Tower for the stunning views over the city.
From there it was a short walk back through to the Römer to see how they had almost completely dismantled the Christmas Market overnight.
I wandered over to the Cathedral to have a look around inside and then climb the tower to the top to take in the views from there.
Then it was time to head back to the station, pick up my luggage and head on home.
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Thankfully, Gatwick was incredibly quiet, and for once the trains were favourable so I was in the departures lounge barely 30 minutes after leaving work.
To make things even better the flight started loading early, was half empty, pushed back early and taxied straight from the gate into its take-off roll so we left Gatwick a good 20 minutes before we were scheduled to.
Having landed in Aberdeen I wasn’t quite early enough to make the bus to town, and with an hour to wait in the cold I decided instead to catch a cab to the hotel.
After checking in I went for a short wander around the local area and grabbed a late bite to eat before heading back to the hotel and bed.
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The first walk started from near the centre of town and headed up through Old Aberdeen, through the university area and past the old Cathedral.
After stopping off at the Cathedral I continued walking through the nearby park and up to the end of the walk at the old bridge over the river Don.
From here it was a pleasant walk through the Donmouth nature reserve to the dunes and beach and the start of the second walk south, back along the seafront to the harbour and centre of town.
By the time I finally made it back into the centre of Aberdeen it was getting dark, but as it was only about 3:30 that felt a little early to be heading to bed, so instead I visited the maritime museum and after that popped to the cinema to take in a film, before a slightly later dinner than I originally expected and then home
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The ruins are pretty impressive standing on a rocky crag overlooking a picturesque bay and looking out to the North Sea. Today it was benign, calm and in the hazy sun looked almost Mediterranean, though it being the North Sea in January clearly freezing cold.
I spent a long time wandering around the castle and then took the costal path back along the cliffs towards Stonehaven, stopping off outside the town to take in the impressive war memorial that stands on a hill overlooking the harbour.
I continued walking down into town and had a wander around the harbour and town, before heading back to the bus stop to get the bus back into Aberdeen.
I had a wander around the city centre before heading for a bite to eat and then an early night, ready for an early start the following morning
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It was quite a long walk into the centre of town, past the Walkers shortbread factory, and by the time I got into the centre the weather was starting to get a little unpleasant.
I had a quick wander up the massive Motte of the former castle, of which only a small fragment of the base of the keep remains, to take in the views, which were impressive, if slightly difficult to make out through the almost horizontal rain that was starting to come down.
Having sheltered in a bus stop for a few minutes the shower passed and I continued on into town and out to the ruins of the old Cathedral. In the time it took to look around the ruins the weather went from calm to storm with torrential downpour to gloriously sunny and the back to calm again.
Having avoided the worst of the weather, and taken in the sights I wandered back down to the station. The original plan was to catch the train on one more stop to Forres and visit the historic distillery on the outskirts of the town, but as it was a mile and half walk I was a little dubious and not long before we reached the station there was another massive downpour which made my mind up that I would take advantage of having purchased a ticket all the way through to Inverness I would stay on the nice warm, dry, train and take in the stunning views.
I arrived in Inverness and went for a short wander around the town centre, but of course it being that bit further north sunset was even earlier than in Aberdeen so it wasn’t that long before I headed back to the station to make the long journey back south to Aberdeen.
Arriving back in Aberdeen I had a pleasant dinner before heading back to the hotel.
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The town is home to a massive estate with a spectacular castle and walled garden. A large part of the estate along with the castle and gardens were left to the National Trust of Scotland in the 1950’s and today they are open to the public.
I spent most of the day taking in the stunning walks through the estate and the very informative guided tour of the castle, helped by the fact that I was the only person on the tour, so I got a personal tour.
Having spent most of the day at the castle it was time to head back into Aberdeen, pick up my luggage and head for the airport.
Once again we got an early boarding call, so early that If Aberdeen wasn’t such a small airport and I was looking at the gate I might have had to leave a third of a pint in the restaurant.
At the same time as the inbound flight was due to be landing we were already picking up speed down the runway on our way back south.
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After checking into the hotel I wandered down through the town taking in the key sights, including the castle and the priory, though as it was already dark everything was locked up.
I wandered through town for a while then stopped for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep
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Manningtree is the nearest station to the Dedham Vale, an area immortalised by landscape painter John Constable.
His most famous work, the Haywain, was painted at the mill in Flatford and after a pleasant two mile walk across the countryside I arrived to find a scene that, apart from a slightly raised water table, hasn’t changed since the scene was originally painted (except that is for the missing hay wagon).
I had a wander around the really pretty little settlement, and stopped for a mid-morning cup of tea and a scone in the National Trust tea room, before heading back over the countryside to Manningtree station and back into Colchester.
From Colchester I hopped on another train and out to the coast at Clacton. I had a long wander around Clacton taking in the pier and the esplanade gardens before wandering back into town and catching the bus further up the coast to the small town of Walton-on-the-Naze.
The bus went all the way out to the Naze so I wandered back along the beach front to the town centre. By the time I got back to the pier the sun was starting to set so I headed over to the station and caught the train back to Colchester.
After dropping my stuff off at the hotel I wandered down into town for dinner.
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After a pleasant walk through the castle gardens which include substantial parts of the towns old Roman Walls, I arrived at the castle.
The castle keep is the largest Norman keep in the country, bigger even than the Tower of London, after which it is modelled. Even more impressive than the 1000 year old Norman keep is the fact it is built on the 2000 year old remains of a former Roman temple.
I had a long wander around the museum which is now housed in the castle, telling the history of the area, including going on a guided tour of the Roman foundations beneath the castle and up onto the castles roof for what should have been stunning views if it wasn’t for the heavy mist that was rapidly changing into a shower.
Having looked round the castle I wandered over the road to the Natural History museum which is housed in a former church to have a look round that, and after another heavy shower, walked down to the ruins of St Botolph’s priory and the gatehouse of the former St John’s Abbey.
By now it was starting to get on a bit and after grabbing a late lunch, taking in some more of the Roman walls and Jumbo, the towns massive former water tower, it was time to collect my belongings and start what would be, as it was a Sunday and there were engineering works, the long journey home.
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On the plus side there was a good view of the Thames Barrier in the near distance, and the elegant curves of the Docklands Light Railway outside the window. On the downside was the presence of the Docklands Light Railway immediately outside the widow, with the wheels squealing past at exactly the same height as the window.
I headed into Stratford to grab a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel to try and get some sleep, a task that was much more achievable once the DLR had finished running for the night
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After a leisurely shower I repacked, checked out of the hotel and walked the short distance to the terminal building, straight to the bag drop desk with no queue, up the escalator and just 15 minutes after closing my hotel room door I was ordering a coffee in the Caffé Nero’s in the departures lounge.
I had barely sat down to start my coffee when the flight was called so in the end I finished my breakfast in the gate room. After a minor delay due to a last minute delay to some of the crew (the pilot had come in from Stockholm, the First Officer from Madrid) we made the dramatic take-off from City Airport and headed towards the Algarve.
After a pleasant, if slightly bumpy flight, we landed at Faro and once again I had a smooth journey through the airport, barely stopping from leaving the plane to reaching the taxi rank at the front of the airport with my bags.
Having checked in at the hotel and dropped my stuff off I wandered down to the bus stop and caught a bus into town, which in the end proved to not be that long a journey.
I had a long wander around the old walled town, taking in the sights from the top of the tower of the Cathedral as well as the museum and the Cathedral itself.
By about 5 I was starting to get a bit peckish so, after picking up some postcards and some stamps, I stopped for a bite to eat in a little café overlooking the harbour and had some very late lunch.
I had a bit more of a wander around before stopping by the station to check on times of trains for the weekend and then, with the sun rapidly starting to head for the horizon, and not 100% certain of the walk back to the hotel, I headed back.
After freshening up I wandered down to the hotel restaurant for a very light dinner and a drink before heading back to my room for an early night.
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Next stop was the museum of the Algarve and after zipping round that a short break from the walking by taking in the land train tour of the town centre. After the train I polished off the rest of Faro’s attractions by visiting the Municipal museum located in a former convent building behind the Cathedral.
Having exhausted Faro, and still only early in the afternoon I decided to head over to the train station and head east. I caught the train along the coast to the small town of Vila Real de Santo Antonio.
I walked the short distance down from the station to the harbour to pick up the ferry across the river and into the future. Santo Antonio is a border town and down the middle of the Rio Guadiana not only runs the Portuguese/Spanish border, but also the diving line between WEST and CET. So whilst it was 16:30 on Santo Antonio, just 400 yards away across the river it was already 17:30.
I caught the ferry across to Spain to the small town of Ayamonte and had a brief look around the town. I didn’t want to linger too long as I wasn’t certain if the times of the return boats posted at the ticket office in Santo Antonio were local times to Portugal or to Spain. Depending on the answer I either had 10 minutes to look around before the last boat of the night, or the choice of one in 10 or one in 70 minutes. As I was boarding the boat I noticed there was a different set of times correct for CET so I could have had longer, but it wasn’t worth the risk.
So, 50 minutes before I left Ayamonte I arrived back on the other side of the river in Vila Real de Santo Antonio. I had a bit of a wander around the town before heading back over to the station to catch the train back to Faro.
By the time the train left Santo Antonio it was already dark, and by the time I got back to Faro I was quite hungry (realising only then that I hadn’t actually bothered to stop for lunch). I headed into town for a large dinner. Sated, I wandered back to the station and caught a cab back (having already decided that whilst the walk in was very nice in the sun, it would have been horrible in the dark)
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I arrive in Lagos mid-morning and had enough time to wander around the centre and take in the key sights such as the former slave market, the church of Santa Maria, the Bandeira Fortress and the town museum before I needed to head back to the bus station to pick up one of the infrequent buses further along the coast to Sagres.
Sagres, at least until the 15th Century, was the end of the world. This is as far South West as you can come on the continent, to the West lies just open sea and until the voyages of discovery proved there was land beyond. Even today it has the feel of a town on the end. The massive open skies and surrounded by sea far into the horizon.
The actual most South-Westerly point, The Cape of St Vincent, is about 4KM round the headland, but is inaccessible by public transport in mid-February, and with all the cycle hire shops closed, and only three hours until the return bus, not achievable in the time I had.
Instead I walked down the peninsular of land sticking out from the town and out to the impressive fortress which straddles the headland.
I had a long wander around the fortress site, and by the time I made it back into town, there was only about 15 minutes until my bus, which was a shame as the smell of grilled fish coming from one of the restaurants was highly tempting.
Back in Lagos I had a bit more of a wander around the town centre before heading back over to the station and catching the train back to Faro.
Having been salivating at the thought of food since Sagres nearly four hours earlier I made a beeline for the centre of town and had a very pleasant fishy supper, before heading back to the station and catching a cab back to the hotel.
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The Island forms part of the natural barrier that helps to create the islets, salt pans and lagoon of the Ria Formosa, which in themselves help to protect Faro from the Atlantic.
The Island is, as its name suggests, almost completely deserted. With the exception of some fishermen’s huts and a stunning restaurant (built using sustainable wood, up on stilts, accessed via a boardwalk and fully solar powered all to protect the natural environment) the island is completely empty of buildings.
I had a very nice and filling lunch in the restaurant, before going for a walk around part of the island.
From the restaurant there is a board walk that takes you along the Northern part of the island, being able to take in the scenery, without damaging the flora and fauna. After about a kilometre or so, the boardwalk swings inland and down to the south coast, where it takes you down onto the beautiful sandy beach at the most Southerly point in Portugal.
It’s then a very pleasant walk (or in my case pleasant, but slightly chilly paddle) back along the beach towards the restaurant.
In the end with the paddling and taking in the scenery it took me over two hours to walk the two kilometres, but that did include quite a bit of paddling in the sea.
Back at the restaurant I had a late afternoon beer before it was time to catch the ferry back to Faro, across the Lagoon flooded with the light of the setting sun casting an amazing glow on everything.
Back in Faro, and still stuffed from lunch, I had a bit of a wander around the town before I caught the bus back to the hotel and an early night.
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From the station I had a long wander around the town centre taking in the key sights of the castle and the Roman bridge that spans the river here.
I then had a very pleasant walk along the river to the point where it enters the sea, but arrived just after the hourly boat to the island that forms a natural barrier from the sea had left. Rather than waiting another hour I headed back into town for a very nice lunch.
After a very filling lunch and feeling really quite stuffed I wandered back through the town to the station to catch the train back to Faro.
Back in Faro, and using my very patchy Portuguese I managed to get a cab to take me back to the hotel and wait for me whilst I collected my bags, and then took me onto the airport.
A smooth journey through the airport and a smooth journey back to London stopped being quite so smooth when we got to baggage reclaim. It was nearly 40 minutes after landing before the first bags started to come round, and by the time I got to the train station there wasn’t a train back to Croydon for nearly half an hour.
By the time that arrived I had missed the last train of the night from Croydon so I had to treck up to Clapham, where none of the lifts were working and had a 20 minute wait there for one of the last trains of the night back home.
It was quite a difference to just a month previously when landing at almost exactly the same time I’d been home in 50 minutes, by the time I finally put my key in the lock at home it was nearly 2 and a half hours since I’d touched down.
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Having arrived in Madrid, made my way to the hotel and checked in, I wandered out to the main street to pick up the hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus.
Despite it already being 6pm the buses were still running for another couple of hours, so I was able to take in all the sights of both the routes available, including some stunning views of Madrid at night.
At 10pm, I popped back to the hotel to freshen up and then headed back out towards the Puerta del Sol to grab some dinner.
Just before midnight I wandered back to the hotel and a good night’s sleep.
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A very pleasant and relaxing hour and fifty later, and on time to the second, the train pulled into the station in Cordoba and I wandered my way through the city to the hotel.
Having checked in and dropped all my stuff off I headed out to have a look around the city centre. I was going to save the spectacular Cathedral-Mosque (the jewel in Cordoba’s crown) until later in the trip so I just wandered round the outside and the Patio of the Oranges. I then walked the short distance to the Castle and had a long look around that taking in both the building and the spectacular gardens.
Just across from the castle are some reconstructed Arabic baths so I had a look around them before having a bit more of a walk around the town. I ended up crossing over the river upstream from the spectacular Roman bridge (albeit that only two of the piers are still original, the rest merely 1,000 years old!) then walked back to it along the edge of the river.
As I was wandering across the bridge I had a stunning view of the sun setting, almost into the river, and then within a couple of minutes the bridge being bathed in floodlights as it lit up for the evening.
It may have been 30 during the day, but the weather forecast was predicting it to drop to around 6 overnight, so rather than sit out for dinner shivering in shorts and T-shirt, I popped back to the hotel to get changed, and to at least get close to the Andalucian dining time.
I had a long wander around the city centre, down the many tiny lanes, taking lots of photos before I reached the area around the Cathedral where I found a very nice (and very cheap) tapas bar for some dinner.
Then a few more photos later, I headed back to the hotel and a good night’s sleep.
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After the whole morning, and part of the afternoon wandering around the site, I arrived back into Cordoba and went for a long walk along the city walls. A large part, starting by the main road at the Puerta del Almodóvar and stretching round towards the Alcázar remain (with a few missing patches), but they do give a clear indication as to how massive the city was in medieval times.
Eventually my wall walk brought me round to the Punte Romano, and after a brief stop for an exceptionally late lunch (possibly only in Spain does 5pm count as lunch), I crossed over to visit the Torre de la Calahorra to see the museum and take in the stunning views from the roof.
From there it was back across the bridge and up into the old Jewish quarter to visit the Synagogue, one of only three ancient synagogues surviving in the whole of Spain, and the only one in Andalucía.
Having visited the synagogue I wandered back towards the hotel, stopping off in the square by the hotel for a pre-dinner drink, then with the temperature starting to fall, I quickly popped back to the hotel to change into warmer clothing and then headed out looking for dinner.
I had a wander around the city centre, taking in the ruins of an ancient Roman temple, before finding a very nice restaurant that specialised in Andalucian/Moroccan fusion cooking (basically the type of food that was probably being eating when it was al-Andalus) right behind the Mezquita.
Stuffed from a very nice dinner I wandered back to the hotel and within minutes of my head hitting the pillow was fast asleep.
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By the time I finished looking round the archaeology museum the weather had taken a distinct turn for the worse. I wandered back in the direction of the hotel, stopping to shelter from a particularly heavy burst of rain in the museum of the inquisition, but even with hiding and avoiding the worst of the rain by the time I got back to the hotel I was soaked.
After drying out and putting on some dry clothes I headed back out again, into an overcast but at least dry late afternoon, I wandered through a bit more of the Juderia, now starting to get an idea of how all the little alleyways join up.
I then headed over to the top end of town via the Roman temple ruins to the Palacio de Viana to have a look around that, then it was back down towards the river and along the banks a bit further, past some more ruined mills and across a bridge further upstream. The way the river snakes through the city meant that from the other side of the bridge I was a couple of hundred meters walk from the end of the Roman bridge, rather than well over a kilometre on the other bank.
I had a bit more of a wander around the city centre and then it was time to grab some dinner in a very nice tapas bar just behind the Mezquita, before heading back to the hotel, taking a short detour via the Roman Mausoleums.
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After a bit more of a wander it was time to meet up with friends who were, entirely by chance, also in Cordoba today.
I spent the rest of the day with my friends taking in the sights, mostly from café’s and bars.
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The journey was once again smooth and fast, with the train pulling into Madrid’s Atocha station five minutes early.
As I had a couple of hours to kill before my flight I dropped my bags in the left luggage and then headed over to the nearby botanical gardens to have a look around.
After looking round the gardens it was time to head back to the station, pick up my bags and make my way back to the airport and the journey home.
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Having checked into the hotel and dropped my stuff off I wandered back over to the terminal building to grab a bite to eat before heading back to my room for a good nights sleep.
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Instead, a little after 8am I rolled out of bed into the shower and 30 minutes later I was walking across the link bridge between the hotel and the airport terminal.
An uneventful flight later and I landed in Hamburg, collected my bags, headed into the city centre and then straight back out again on the train to Lübeck. From the station I walked the short distance to the hotel and checked in there.
I headed back out from the hotel down to the central bus station (having already worked out I would miss the train by about two minutes) to catch the bus out to the seaside resort of Travemünde.
I had a long wander along the beach, taking in the bracing Baltic Sea air before the first drops of rain started falling. As I made my way back towards the train station the drops turned into a fine shower, then a heavy shower, progressing (thankfully after I reached the station building) to an absolute downpour.
I was quite glad that the heating on the train had been put up to maximum as it meant I was able to steam dry myself quite effectively in the 20 minutes it took to get back to Lübeck.
I headed from the station into the city centre to have a wander round at dusk, taking in the main sights, and taking the lift up the tower of the old St Peters Church to take in the views over the city.
After stopping for dinner I had a bit more of a wander around the old town, and along the canal side, before heading back to the hotel.
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I had originally intended on going to Schleswig first, but there was a 45 minute wait for the next train, and as my ticket let me go anywhere I decided to jump on the train up to Flensburg. I had a wander around the town taking in the stunning scenery around the harbour, before realising that I didn’t have enough time to make the next train towards Schleswig, so instead I jumped on one of the buses that had been going past with the intriguing destination of “Denmark”
Flensburg is just a couple of Kilometres south of the Danish border, and the number 1 bus makes the journey into Denmark every 20 minutes. The final part of the journey, through what would have been at one point two border crossings and a no-man’s land, is slightly bizarre as this relatively quiet road widens out with large grass central reservations and verges where the huts and customs halls would previously have been. You then, unmistakeably arrive in Denmark with a massive Danish flag flying on a pole surrounded by much smaller Finish, Swedish, Norwegian and Icelandic flags.
The town of Kruså where the bus terminates (in what I’m assuming used to be where the Danish customs halls and crossing posts used to be) is quite small and there isn’t much to see, but you can take the small pleasure of walking backwards and forwards over an international border without anyone asking to see your passport.
After a short while in Kruså I caught the bus all the way back to Flensburg station and was in time to pick up the next train south to Schleswig. The town is situated at the head of the largest Förde in Germany (which technically makes it the largest Förde in the world, so long as you ignore all those Norwegian Fjords). Schleswig is another town that has a Scandinavian feel to it, particularly with the massive cathedral that dominates the town and presides over the head of the Fjord.
Having taken in Schleswig I headed back to the station to begin my journey back towards Lübeck. At Kiel I had 40 minutes to wait for the next train so I had a bit of a wander around the waterside area behind the station before heading back for the train to Lübeck, and dinner in the hotel.
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I was quite glad I’d made the decision to head out of town as every few minutes another packed train would pull into Lübeck and disgorge another couple of hundred people into an already heaving town centre.
I arrive in Lüneburg in the early afternoon and went for a wander around the city centre taking in the sites, before stopping off at the old water tower to take the lift to the top for the views, and then a descent back down through the workings of a water tower.
I had a longer walk around the city taking in the impressive St John’s church and the St Nicolai church before stopping for a very late lunch near the Abbot Mill.
As it was starting to look a little overcast, and with exhausted feet, I headed back towards the station to catch the train back to Lübeck.
The sun had already set by the time I got back into Lübeck so I had a quick wander around the Holstentor area to take some night photos before heading back to the hotel.
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Having looked round the cathedral I went for a long walk around the old town before finally ending up outside the Marienkirche just in time for the end of a service and it reopening to tourists.
From the Marienkirche I had a long wander round the rest of the centre of the old town before realising I’d pretty much exhausted Lübeck, so I head over to the station and caught the train back out Travemünde to take in the seaside in the sunlight.
I had a long wander around the town, this time in the dry, before taking the ferry across to the very pleasant beach on the opposite side of the Trave River in Priwall. After wandering around there for a while I came back into Travemünde and took the bus and train further up the coast to the town of Neustadt, in time to watch a stunning sunset on the Baltic.
By the time I got back into Lübeck it was dark and time to head back to the hotel for a bite to eat and then bed.
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I caught the Hochbahn out from the station to the Landungsbrücken and from there went on a very pleasant ferry ride (ignoring the Hail storm partway through) along the Elbe to Finkenwerde and then onto Blankenese.
I caught the S-Bahn back into Hamburg and then went for a wander through the Elbe tunnel to the opposite bank of the river before it was time to head back to the Hauptbahnhof, pick up my luggage and head for the airport and the flight home.
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Somewhere just north of Rugby I turned in for the evening, but it being a sleeper didn’t really sleep very well, so I was able to easily make out both of our stops and Crewe and Preston.
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By the time I awoke again it was clearly light and we were heading for the highlands. I pulled up the blind, thankfully after getting dressed, to realise we were actually stopped on Garelochhead station (lucky I hadn’t decided to pull up the blind before putting some clothes on). After breakfast in my cabin I walked down to the lounge car just as the train was pulling into Ardlui station, and prepared for the interesting part of the journey across Rannoch moor and the highlands.
The two hours up from Crianlarich to Fort William are some of the most spectacular scenery in Britain, crossing the desolate Rannoch Moor, stopping in Currour, the highest and most isolated railway station in Britain (10Km from the nearest road) and then finally winding its way back down into Fort William on the junction of several lochs and the base of Fort William.
I wandered over to the hotel to drop my bags off and then had a walk around the town centre, taking in what remains of the Fort that put the Fort in Fort William, and the centre of town. I then headed over to the bus station to get the late morning bus up to the Nevis Range Arial Gondola.
The Gondola rises to almost the peak of Aonach Mòr and from here there are stunning views over the lochs and mountain ranges that surround Fort William. It’s also a very quick way to “Bag a Monro” without really expending any effort.
At the top there is also a very nice café where I had a filling lunch before it was time to head back down to catch the bus back into Fort William. Thanks to roadwork’s, by the time I got back into the town centre it was almost 5, so by the time I checked into the hotel and dropped my stuff in the room it was time to grab dinner and then have an early night to catch up on the missed sleep from the sleeper.
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The West Highland line from Helensburgh through Crianlarich and Fort William to Mallaig regularly features in the top 10 world’s best railway journeys, and on the leg from Crianlarich to Fort William it’s easy to see why. However, the final leg is regularly highlighted as even more stunning, and the guidebooks aren’t wrong. From the journey along the edge of Loch Eli with Ben Nevis looming behind you, up into the mountains and then across the stunning Glenfinnan viaduct (or Harry Potter viaduct as it’s now usually referred to as) before diving back down to the coast at Arisaig and then Mallaig.
I had a quick wander around Mallaig and then headed over to the CalMac office to get tickets for the ferry across to Skye. On arrival in Skye I wandered the short distance to the Clan Donnald visitors centre based around the ruins of the castle and set in acres of gardens and wooded land that you can wander around.
I spent so long wandering around that in the end I needed to pick up the pace a bit to make it back to the ferry in time to catch it back over to Mallaig.
In Mallaig I had a look in the local museum before it was time to head back to the station and make the stunning return back to Fort William.
Back in Fort William I dropped my bag back into the hotel and then headed out for dinner, before having another early evening.
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The full route, over 70 miles runs the full length of the Great Glen from Fort William up to Inverness, I was only looking to do about 5 miles to Neptune’s Staircase where the Caledonian Canal make its descent down to sea level.
First stop on the walk was the ruins of Inverlochy castle about a mile and a half outside of Fort William; I had a look around that before continuing on through Caol to the sea lock at the very end of the Caledonian Canal at Corpach.
From there it was about another mile to the impressive 8 lock flight of Neptune’s Staircase. I had a look around the area before stopping at the canal-side hotel for a late lunch.
I had originally planned just to catch the bus back into Fort William from there and have a wander around the town, but looking up the train times I noticed that I could get the train out to Glenfinnan to have a look at both the viaduct and the monument (it’s at Glenfinnan that Bonny Prince Charlie first raised his standard and started the campaign that would eventually lead, just 8 months later, to bloody defeat at Culloden.)
The view of both Loch Shiel and the viaduct are possibly more spectacular from ground level than they are from the train and I was so captivated by the views that only just made the return train (and last train of the day) back to Fort William.
After a spot of dinner I headed back to the hotel to pack.
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Through a stroke of luck my assigned seat was one with a big window, and on the opposite side to the journey up so I was able to see all the sights I missed on the way up.
By the time I arrived in Glasgow the weather had taken a distinct turn for the worse and I was left with the choice of either spending a wet hour wandering around the city centre, or an hour sitting in the warm in the airport, so I chose the latter, grabbed my bags and headed to the bus station to catch the air bus out to Glasgow Airport.
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I checked into the hotel, had a very quick wander around Feltham to see if there was anywhere to eat, and then grabbed some dinner from the Asda below the hotel when I decided there wasn’t
With a quick dinner inside I turned in for the night
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After checking out of the hotel I wandered over to Feltham station and caught the bus out to the airport and Terminal 1. My check-in desk was, of course, at the very far end of the terminal building, so a very long walk later I joined the back of the queue to check-in. 20 minutes later I had my two boarding cards and my luggage had a tag on it that should be sending it to Wroclaw via Warsaw. I’d see in a few hours’ time if that worked.
The queues for security were pretty bad, even by Heathrow’s standard, but at least it meant that by the time I’d got through security and grabbed a quick breakfast, it was time to head to the gate and board the flight.
Two hours later we landed at Warsaw and I followed the signs for flight connections, and my second major queue of the day. 45 minutes later I was through flight connections and with only about an hour to wait for my connecting flight back out to Wroclaw.
A short 40 minute flight later I arrived at Wroclaw, was amazed to find my bag not only had made it all the way, but was one of the first off, and quickly made it out to the bus stop and the bus into town.
With a quick change in the city centre onto the correct tram I headed out to the hotel and checked in.
Having deposited my stuff in the hotel I caught the tram back into town and had a short wander around the centre, before grabbing a bite to eat, and then heading back to the hotel to head to bed.
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I had a long wander around the sights both of Cathedral Island and the neighbouring Sand Island taking in several of the churches and the cathedral, including taking the lift up to the top of one of the cathedrals towers for the stunning views over the city centre.
I then wandered over to the Botanical gardens and had a long wander around them, taking advantage of the various green-houses to skip most of the short, sharp showers that passed over.
From the botanical gardens I caught a tram out to the Old Jewish Cemetery to the south of the town centre to have a look around that. It’s an incredibly moving place as it reminds you quite how thriving a Jewish community then Breslau had prior to the Second World War, and how completely it was wiped out. Not a single headstone has a date later than early 1939.
From the Cemetery I caught a tram back into town to have a wander around the old town near the town hall, before grabbing a bite to eat, a bit more of a wander and then the tram back to the hotel
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Then it was over to the university to have a look around the stunning rooms there including the views for the top of the mathematical tower and the seriously over the top church.
After a stop for a very late lunch I caught the tram out to the people’s hall to have a look around. Unfortunately, there was an event taking place which meant that the hall and much of the surrounding park land was closed off to anyone who didn’t have a ticket, but I was able to see parts of the multimedia fountain, have a wander around some of the park land, and take in the stunning Japanese gardens.
I headed back into town and had a bit more of a wander around, including taking in the Patriots hill before having a very nice dinner and then back to the hotel.
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Having seen the Archaeological and Military museums I wandered back towards the Rynek and stopped at the Elizabeth church to climb it’s tower, before heading over to the Rynek to get some lunch.
I had a bit more of a wander around the town centre and then found myself down by the landing stage for one of the river cruises as it was getting ready to leave, so I had a quick journey down the river.
Unfortunately, the weather had deteriorated quite a bit by then, and by the time I got back to the landing stage I was pretty well soaked. I grabbed a tram back to the hotel to dry out and change, waited for the rain to ease off a bit and then headed back out to town.
I had a quick bite to eat in the centre of town, but again the weather got quite a bit worse and I ended up, for the second time in a couple of hours, sitting, soggily, on a tram back towards the hotel.
A fortifying quick drink in the bar whilst I dried out, and then to bed.
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Having taken in the Panorama I wandered back over to the People’s hall to see if it were open again after the weekends events, but they were still in the process of taking stuff down so it was closed to visits, however I did manage to catch one of the performances of the Multimedia Fountain.
I caught a tram back into town for a late lunch and a bit of a wander around before deciding to finish the afternoon in the zoo.
I had a long wander round the zoo, so long in fact that I very nearly got locked in, before heading back into town for a quick bite to eat and then back to the hotel to pack.
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A hopeful introduction to a smooth journey was the speed with which I passed through the airport in Wroclaw, making it from the bus, through check-in (all the way to Heathrow) and security in about six minutes.
The journey continued smoothly, despite a very wet terminal to bus and bus to plane transfer, through a seamless transit in Warsaw and onto the flight to London
A bit of stacking outside Heathrow meant that we ended up being five minutes late landing, but for what could have been a very complicated and long day if something hadn’t worked, that wasn’t really an issue.
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Again, only a short wait before we were called forward for boarding, and bang on time started our take off roll down the runway.
Less than an hour later, and 15 minutes ahead of schedule we touched down on the Isle of Man, and with the luggage popping round in seconds flat I ended up having a 10 minute wait for the bus I thought I was going to miss.
The bus even went to just above the hotel so I had a short downhill walk.
After checking in I had a quick shower and then, with the last of the evenings light fading over the skies of Douglas, turned in for the night.
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From there I caught the Manx Electric Railway up to Laxey and then took the Snaefell mountain railway up to the highest point on the island, the summit of Snaefell. Unfortunately, the lovely sunny weather down on the coast was not being mirrored up the mountain, and by the time we reached the summit the whole mountain had disappeared into a thick and eerie fog that left visibility at less than 50 foot.
I had a wander around the strange muted landscape before grabbing a welcome cup of tea in the café and then catching the next tram back down to Laxey.
I had a wander around Laxey near the station and then caught the Great Laxey Mines Railway through the only tunnel on the island to the Laxey Wheel, the symbol of the Island.
I’d forgotten from my previous visit quite how much of a site there was to explore at Laxey and after taking in the wheel, mines and some of the walks around the valley sides it was time for lunch, for which I caught the local link bus the short distance down to the sea front in Old Laxey.
After lunch I picked the tram back up and continued north to its terminus in Ramsey. I walked the mile or so out to the Grove museum of Victoria life and had a look around that before walking back into the town centre for a wander around.
Having taken in the sights of Ramsey I headed back to the bus station and was in time to pick up the bus down the Western coast of the island to Peel.
I had a quick look around Peel before catching the bus back into Douglas, dinner and a welcome sleep.
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From Port Erin I caught the bus out to the Sound of Man, the most South-Westerly point of the island, from where there are stunning views of the Calf of Man.
I took the bus the short distance back up the hill to the ethnographical museum at the Cregneash Folk Museum.
Having looked round there I caught the bus up to Ballasalla and visited the ruins of Rushen Abbey, once the most powerful site on the island, reduced to ruins by Henry VIII and hidden from memory until the late 20th century.
Having taken in Rushen Abbey I headed into Castletown, the old capital of the island to take in the castle of the same name.
After looking around Castle Rushen I had a bit more of a wander around Castletown before stopping off at the very nice pub on the town square for dinner.
Feeling bloated, and slightly sleepy, I caught the bus back to the hotel and turned in for the night
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I had a wander around the town centre in a light drizzle, before heading to the town’s main museum the House of Manannan.
By the time I had looked around that the rain was starting to pick up a bit, but I thought I would have enough time before it really started raining to have a look around the castle.
Unfortunately, I only got about half way round before I was defeated by the rapidly deteriorating weather, so I headed back into town and decided to catch the bus north to Ramsey to do a bit of sightseeing from the warmth and dry of the top deck of a bus.
In Ramsey I was able to dash from the warmth and dryness of the Peel bus straight across the garage forecourt and into the equally dry Douglas bound bus, which then took off into the fog of the hills of northern Man.
By the time we arrived back in Douglas the rain had reduced to a small drizzle again so I was able to walk across town to the Manx museum. After the museum I wandered back down to the hotel to pick up my bags and head to the airport.
Originally, when I had booked the flight it was due to depart at 18:00, but over the intervening months the flight time had slowly been pushed back to 19:55, which turned out to be a problem as shortly after 19:00 a massive bank of fog descended on the island. The inbound plane was unable to land, turned round and temporarily landed at Blackpool to see if the fog would lift before deciding it wouldn’t and returning to Birmingham, leaving us passengers on the Isle of Man stranded.
In an incredibly smooth operation FlyBE took us all back through security, booked us onto the morning flight and then booked us into a nearby hotel.
So 30 minutes after I should have been checking into a hotel in Birmingham I was instead checking into another hotel on the Isle of Man for an extra night on the island.
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In the end the flight was delayed, but only by 10 minutes, and only because they had replaced the plane for a much larger one, to try and accommodate two flights worth of passengers.
And so, nearly 13 hours late I finally bid the Isle of Man a fond farewell.
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As before it took several attempts and a couple of key card changes before I was actually able to get into my room. Having dropped my stuff in my room I quickly wandered down to the supermarket below the hotel to grab some stuff for a light supper before heading back to my room, eating, and then turning in for the night.
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The flight was a little late leaving as it was full, but thankfully, we could almost have pushed back straight onto the active runway the stand was so close to the start of the take-off area, so incredibly, for Heathrow, just a few minutes after pushing back we were airborne.
Arriving into Berlin five minutes early I realised I hadn’t needed all the spare time I’d given myself as I could probably have made the earlier train to Szczecin, but rather than rush into town to make the train I instead decided to take it slowly and have a couple of hours wandering around the city before heading for the train.
Having dropped my luggage in the lockers at the Hauptbahnhof I caught the U-Bahn down to the Brandenburg Gate and had a wander around the area there before slowly making my way back to the Hauptbahnhof via the Reichstag and the riverside. I collected my bags, caught the train over to Gesundbrunnen, changed and picked up my train to Szczecin.
An uneventful, if noisy two hours later (there was a large family that had several young children they were letting run up and down the train screaming at the top of their voices), I arrived into Szczecin Glowny and walked the short distance to my hotel.
After checking in and unpacking I headed out for a late evening wander around the city centre before stopping at the town hall square for dinner in one of the restaurants. After dinner, I had a bit more of a wander along the riverside, before heading back to the hotel and bed.
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Given how cheap it was, and that seats were available, I booked for later that afternoon with the return mid-evening. With the tickets in my pocket I continued down to the tourist office to get a Szczecin card and then on up to the Ducal Palace to have a good look around.
Having taken in the sites of the Ducal palace I headed down to the old town hall and had a look around the historical museum that is based there, before grabbing a quite bite to eat and then heading over to the station to catch the train to the coast.
Swinoujscie (formerly Swinemünde) is located in the very north western corner of Poland, at the mouth of the Odra river delta and with some stunning beaches. It’s also got quite a fair amount of ruined fortresses due to its location.
From the train it was a short ferry crossing over the river Swina to the town centre and first stop, as it was closing within the hour, was the museum of deep sea fishing. Having looked round that, I went for a long wander through the town and the large park that surrounds much of the town centre.
I eventually found myself down by the river mouth at one of the many fortresses and had a look around that before continuing along the river to where it empties into the sea and then walking back along the long sandy beach.
I had a nice long walk along the beach, so long in fact that I left Poland altogether and entered Germany! Having returned back across the border I wandered back through the town towards the station and made my train with about 20 minutes to spare, but sadly no time for dinner.
By the time I got back to Szczecin I was just able to catch the last tram of the night up the hill from the station to the hotel where I picked up a bite to eat at the bar before turning in for the night
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Having taken in the tower and the cathedral itself, I headed down to the station for one of the more unusual sights in the town, Szczecin underground. Underneath the station is a massive bunker complex, originally started by the Prussians as part of the station construction it was converted into an air-raid shelter by the Germans and then into a nuclear bunker by the Soviets. Today there are tours round both parts of the bunker (in Polish, but with an English transcript).
After taking both tours I quickly grabbed some lunch before heading off to do one of the two suggested walking routes that the tourist office publish. In this instance a 3Km walk from the city centre out to the beautiful rose gardens in the North of the city, except I cheated and took a tram up to the rose gardens and walked back in the opposite direction.
Having completed that walk I then took the other suggested walk, this one is even easier to follow that the first walk as the entire route is marked on the pavements in the city centre with a broken red line. They even paint on the information point numbers so you know where to look for an information board.
By the time I had completed both of the walks it was early evening so I headed over to the old town hall square for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel to start my packing ready for the following morning.
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In contrast to Polish railways, the train, run by Deutsche Bahn, was on time to the second (though from experience this is becoming a rare thing for DB). And so at precisely 10:57 we pulled out of the station and I headed towards the German border.
I had assumed that as Poland was in Schengen it would be a smooth ride into Germany, and initially it was, but two stops over the border a whole gaggle of Polizie got on the train and inspected everyone’s papers.
Needless to say, on a train travelling from Poland to Germany, discovery of a British passport caused quite a bit of interest (so much for trying to travel as a local). Firstly there was confusion as my passport is 8 years old and has the identity page in a different place to newer passports. Then there was confusion as my passport is so badly battered that the whole of the front emblem (UK coat of arms) has rubbed off so they thought it might be fake. Finally there was uproar as I had left the stub of a boarding card for a flight from Hamburg in middle of it – clear evidence that I was an enemy of the DDR, shame the DDR hasn’t existed for the last 20 odd years, but I think they may have reverted to original training.
Eventually, after a few minutes examining my passport, and me starting to consider how I phrase “I can’t make it into work today, I’m being held in a DDR gulag for espionage”, the police handed it back to me and walked on.
Cover blown I put my headphones on and sunk back into the seat to avoid being looked at as a weird foreigner and travelled deeper into Germany.
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Over the next 30 minutes or so it was clear that most of the carriage was getting irritated by this. It was a hot day, the train was stuffy and only a couple of windows would open, fine when the train was moving, but when it regularly stopped at stations, and at some of them for some time to let other trains pass, the smell started to become decidedly unpleasant.
I did think that it was all going to kick off into one gigantic Teutonic row (to some extent I was hoping it might do that), instead most of the people just sat their tutting in a decidedly English way.
Eventually the Garlic eater got off, unfortunately at the same station I had to get off at to change to the S-Bahn into Rostock, and to make matters worse it was clear he was heading for the same train as me.
Thankfully, I had a heavy bag, had to use the lifts and was therefore able to carefully avoid the carriage he got into.
30 minutes later the train pulled into Rostock Hauptbahnhof and I quickly changed onto the tram out to the hotel. After a quick checkin and dropping off of luggage I headed back out to the train station and caught the train out to the costal suburb, Warnemünde.
I had a long wander around the town, taking in its sight, including from the top of the main lighthouse, and then enjoying a pleasant boat trip round the harbour. As most of the restaurants were pretty busy, and as I had a day ticket, I popped back into Rostock to grab dinner and have brief wander around the town centre, before heading back to the beach to catch sunset.
After watching the sun go down I headed back into Rostock and back to the hotel for a quick drink (whilst I let the air-conditioning work its magic on the room) and then bed.
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I had a look round the Neue Markt and the area around the town hall before heading over to the Marienkirche just in time to see the astronomical clock in action.
After pausing for a very nice lunch, washed down with ice cold lemonade, I wandered through the Old Town in increasingly stifling heat, with every temperature display nudging into the mid 30’s.
A quick stop at the Petrikirch, where there was a lovely breeze to be had at the top of its tower whilst taking in the views, and then a further walk through the old town, following the town walls.
Part way round, when I got to the Steintor, I decided that it was just silly getting this hot so instead I hopped on a tram down to the riverside to take a tour on the ferry that crosses over, then walked along the tree-lined bank of the river in some more comfort than in the centre of town.
By the late afternoon, and with no sign of the heat abating, I headed out to Warnemünde, where the sea breeze made the temperatures much more pleasant.
I did a bit of shopping as I realised the two pairs of shorts I had brought with me would not be enough to last in the current conditions, and then stopped for an early dinner.
A long walk along the beach, and then back to the station to pick up the train back to the hotel and then (after another trip to the bar to allow the air-conditioning a fighting chance) to bed.
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Prora was built for the “Strength through joy” programme, sort of a Nazi holiday camp, where party members would be able to enjoy sunny holidays on the Baltic. Five massive blocks of building with thousands of rooms were built to house the masses, but by the time most of the site was complete the country was at war and the Nazi holiday camp never opened. Partly used as a hospital during the war the site was eventually left to rot.
Today some of the site is finally being renovated and brought back into use, but lots of it remains empty and eerily quiet, just yards from a packed beach.
Having taken in the bizarre sight of Prora I headed further along the Island to Ostseebad Binz and picked up the islands Steam railway along to one end of the island at Ostseebad Göhren and had a look around there, then it was back on the train to run almost the full length of the line over to the town of Putbus.
From there I caught the train up to the North Eastern corner of the island at Sassnitz and had a look around there before it was time to wander back to the station and make the journey all the way back to Rostock (the advantage of ending in Sassnitz being it’s where the direct trains to Rostock start from, so I could collapse, exhausted, into the seat and just sit there for 2 hours)
I quickly stopped in the centre of town for a light dinner and then headed back to the hotel to pack and go to bed.
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I had originally been looking for the Stasi museum, which took some finding (it’s almost like they were trying to be secret). However, when I got there a large group were being given a tour so it wasn’t possible to visit, so instead I went for a bit of a wander around town, stopping for a mid-morning cold lemonade to try and alleviate the heat, before heading back over to the station to pick up my things and head onto Schwerin.
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I had a bit more time for wandering around than I was anticipating as the train was nearly 30 minutes late, but it eventually arrived.
I had a long wander around the centre of Wismar, which has a lovely old-town almost completely pedestrianized with a little canal running through the heart of it.
After taking in the town I visited the three churches in the town. St Nicolaikirche, which pretty much survived the war intact and is still a fully functioning church. St George of which only the tower now survives, much of the rest of the building having to be pulled down in the early 60’s as it wasn’t safe, and now houses an exhibition on the three churches of the old town.
The final stop was the Marienkirche. It survived the war, but was stripped of all its fittings following the war by a population desperate for shelter and fuel. It remained a shell, slowly rotting away until after unification, at which point a campaign was launched to save it. Building work has now pretty much finished and the church has been restored to the building it was before the war, but is now an arts exhibition space.
After looking around the churches I wandered back to the market place and stopped there for dinner before heading back to the station and the train back to Schwerin and bed.
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I climbed the cathedral tower for some stunning views over the city and the inner lakes and after a quick pause for lunch that’s where I headed next just making the 2pm lake cruise.
After sailing around a couple of the city’s lakes I headed over to the Schloß to look around the museum and then the gardens and orangery.
I then went for a walk in the wider Schloßgarten that lead away from the palace. By the time I made it back to the castle it was already getting quite late so I headed back to the hotel to freshen up and then headed out for dinner.
With it being a particularly warm and muggy night I decided I wanted to eat outside and thankfully, Schwerin had plenty of places offering this, including the very nice beierkeller that I ended up in (so not really a bierkeller, more a biergarten).
Stuffed to capacity with various sausages I went for a brief wander through town to take some night photos, pausing briefly to fill up any remaining empty space in my stomach with a very nice Italian ice-cream.
Then it was back to the hotel and to bed to try and sleep. Something that proved close to impossible.
I started with trying with the windows open, but then found I was surrounded by mosquitos. I spent the next 30 minutes gradually reducing the mosquito population of Schwerin by a considerable amount and of my room by 100%. So to avoid any further mosquitoes, and after a nice cold shower, I tried to get some sleep, but the room was just too humid and hot.
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Thankfully, I managed to get a couple of hours of restless sleep, and, possibly because of my slaughter of the previous night, the mosquitos had avoided me.
After breakfast, at which it was obvious most people in the hotel had not had good nights’ sleep – everyone looked tired and over-hot, I packed my bag, left it in reception and went into town for a couple of hours before I had to catch my train.
First stop of the morning was the art museum close to the hotel. After looking around that I wandered up through town to the Schelfmark area of the city, formerly its own small town before it was swallowed up by an expanding city, and had a look around there, then headed back to the centre of town, diving into the tourist office to avoid a sudden shower.
It was there that I found a flyer for the TV tower, which had a viewing platform open for visits. As I had nearly two hours to kill before my train I caught a tram out to the stop advertised on the flyer and then walked the short distance to the tower.
I took in the views, which very quickly started to disappear into thick, heavy clouds, and very soon it was obvious that the short shower earlier had just been a taster. Soon it was absolutely chucking it down and it was clear I was going to get wet.
I waited in the entrance hall of the TV tower hoping for the rain to stop, but in the end, knowing I had to pick up my luggage and get to the station for a train in a little over an hour, I had to make a very soggy walk back to the tram stop (which felt much longer than the walk in the dry in the opposite direction had felt). I got back into town, quickly ran to the hotel to pick up my luggage and use their toilets to change to into a dry T-shirt and put a hooded top on, before braving the elements again to head to the station and my train onto Magdeburg.
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After checking into the hotel I headed out into the city for a wander around. I started by heading out to the Elbauenpark on the edge of town, intending to have a look around as it was still open. When I got there I found out that there was an entrance charge just to get into the park. As the entrance charge was a lot lower on a Monday (as most things would be closed, as they were at that time), I decided to come back later, and instead headed back into the centre of town.
I had a wander around the cathedral area and along a small remaining part of the former fortress walls that used to surround the city centre, before looking for some dinner.
It was at this point I found out that the people of Magdeburg clearly eat early on a Sunday as everywhere had stopped serving. In the end I had to rely on a bratwurst stall in the station for a pleasant, if unhealthy, dinner.
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Eventually I wandered back to the station and caught the train north into the Altmark, one of the most deserted parts of the country with more horses than people.
I caught the train up to Stendal and then picked up the connecting train down to the small town of Tangermünde. Tangermünde is at the point where the River Tanger flows into the Elbe and is a beautiful medieval town, with almost all of its historic walls and gatehouses surviving, a picture postcard beautiful town centre and a romantic castle overlooking the rivers.
I had a long wander around the town before it was time to catch the train back to Stendal to have a look around there.
After the beauty of Tangermünde I was less impressed by Stendal, which is probably impacted by it being the major population and commercial hub of this empty region, so a little DDR’ed in places.
Having looked around Stendal I caught the train back to Magdeburg and then got the tram out to the Elbauenpark to have a look round that at considerably less than it would have cost the previous day.
The park was created for the 1999 BUGA Horticultural show which included landscaping a former land fill tip into a grass covered rolling hill acting as both a viewing point and the location of a dry toboggan run. In places the park is starting to show it’s age a little, but much of it is still in good nick and it was nice to wander around such an empty space with so few other visitors around.
After looking around the park I headed back into town and had a bit to eat before heading back to the hotel to kill a few more mosquitos before bed.
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I wandered over towards the former convent and then back along the riverfront to the restored Johanneskirche.
The church is now an arts centre, but one of the towers has been opened up as a viewing platform. I had thought that as the whole thing had been refurbished they would have installed a lift, but no it was a hefty 280 odd steps up to the platform.
However, the climb was worth it as the views over the city were spectacular.
Having descended back down to ground level I wandered back over to the hotel, grabbed my stuff, checked out and headed to the station for the penultimate destination of the trip, Erfurt.
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First stop was the Dom complex, two massive buildings on a hill standing over the centre of town. In addition to the cathedral there is the church of St Severus which makes up the complex. I had a look round both before continue to wander through the centre of town.
I stopped off at the Krämerbrücke, a small bridge that is completely covered in shops and houses on both sides. At the end of bridge it passes underneath a Methodist chapel from whose tower there are stunning views over the city centre, and from where you can truly get an idea of the size of the cathedral area.
I then caught the tram out to the edge of town and the Egapark showground. The park was partly built around an old fortress the Cyriaksburg, with the main building having been turned into a museum of gardening one of the towers into a observatory and the other tower into a viewing platform.
I had a long wander around the site taking in all the different gardens before it was time to head back into town to grab some dinner in a very nice restaurant looking across the Domplatz, a short further wander and then back to the hotel and bed.
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From the citadel I wandered through town, roughly following a suggested itinerary in the guide book, picking up the main sights that I hadn’t see the previous day on my wanders.
I wandered past the ruins of the Barfüßerkirche, destroyed during the war and left in ruins as a memory, and on to the Haus zum Stockfisch to look round the Stadtmuseum located there.
After pausing for lunch in the main shopping street I continued my walk and stopped off at the Predigerkircge, the Michaeliskirche and the Augustinerkloster before heading over to the museum in the Alte Synagogue.
The Synagogue is, possibly, the oldest in central Europe, though for over 500 years it lay hidden and unknown. The large Jewish community of Erfurt was either killed or fled during pogroms in the late middle of the 14th century, and after that point the Synagogue was used for storage, and eventually converted into a dance hall. It was only a few years ago that it was realised exactly what it was and at that point a restoration programme started to return it to as close as it would have been at the height of the Jewish community.
After looking around the synagogue I wandered past the Rathaus and Fischmarkt before heading back over towards the Domplatz to find some dinner.
After dinner, and quickly popping back to the hotel to freshen up, I wandered back out to take in the sites in the last of the days sun, wandering up to the Citadel to watch the sun fade over the city.
I had a long wander through town and ended up at the Domplatz illuminated not just by the floodlight cathedrals, but also by an amazingly bright full moon.
I ended the evening wandering part of the way back up to the Citadel to take a few photos of the floodlight cathedrals before heading back to the hotel to pack and then go to bed.
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Whilst it was a long journey back to Berlin, it was at least on a single train that I could collapse into for nearly three hours. That was lucky as it was already 10 minutes late by the time it arrived at Erfurt and proceeded to lose a little more time before it reached its next major stop at Halle.
Up until that point I had had a compartment to myself, but, as this was the one train a day from these parts up to Ostseebad Binz in Rügen, it was always likely that it would fill up, and at Halle a family got in to full my compartment. If my journey was relatively long at 3 hours, their six hour trek up to the Baltic was something else, and long before Berlin their two children was starting to get bored.
It was at this point I was thankful for the headphones and the dark-glasses, though not so thankfull as the train arrived into the lower level of Berlin Hauptbahnof and I realised that the lights in the carriage weren’t actually working, which makes for finding your luggage a little more interesting.
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The mole character is used whenever there are engineering or building works taking place to indicate disruption to the service, and in this case the disruption was caused by the construction of a new bit of U-Bahn line, the same bit of U-Bahn line, it has to be said, that they have been building ever since I first visited Berlin over 8 years ago, which meant that the line between where I was, and where I wanted to be was closed and replaced by a walk. In the end, it wasn’t too bad a walk to the hotel so I wandered down to it and checked in.
For the first time since the Windhook Country Club in Namibia over 9 years earlier I had my bags transported to my room for me by a porter (given I don’t normally stay in this kind of hotel I have not concept of how much you tip porters. I gave €5, but that could have been incredibly cheap, though the guy, as you would expect from a professional, didn’t say anything!)
Having explored the acreage of my room, I headed out for an afternoons wandering, and started the sightseeing directly opposite the hotel in the Fransösicher Dom, including taking in the views from the base of its dome.
Next stop was the Bärenzwinger (bear pit), quite literally a pit (albeit delightfully landscaped with a range of environments for them to enjoy) for the city’s bears. The emblem of Berlin is a bear, so the city keeps some bears! From there I wandered over towards the TV tower to look at the options for a bike tour of the city, and then headed over to the Berliner Dom to have a look around that, and take in the views from its dome.
I started to wander over to the Reichstag, but on my way stopped at the Neue Wache, the memorial to all victims of war and tyranny to have a look. It’s an amazingly moving space, exceptionally simple but it works perfectly to create a respectful space.
I continued wandering over towards the Reichstag with a view to taking in the sights from its dome, but since my last visit in 2009 they had changed the access rules, and you now have to book on-line in advance, so I postponed that for a while.
Instead I wandered back to the hotel to freshen up and then headed back out for dinner, though having to pause for a couple of minutes, thankfully in the hotel reception as I’d only got that far, whilst the most spectacular downpour, accompanied by enormous hail stones, went past.
After dinner I had a long wander around the city centre taking ending up at the Alexanderplatz watching something (I have no idea what it was) that involved a lot of music, and a lot of fire.
I then walked back to the hotel stopping to take some final shots of the Fransösicher Dom before having a late beer in the bar, and then heading for bed.
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I then picked up the U-Bahn out to the Olympic stadium to have a look around that, and by the time I had taken in the museum it was starting to dry out, so it made going onto the roof of the bell tower worthwhile.
I caught the train back into town and over to Alexanderplatz to join the cycle tour and then spent the rest of the afternoon and the early evening touring round the centre of Berlin by bike, taking in the key sights and stopping off near the Zoo for dinner.
Slightly sore from riding a bike for so long I headed back to the hotel and to bed.
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I had a long cycle round the centre of Berlin, stopping off at some of the sights I had missed previously, including the excellent exhibition at the Stasi documentation centre.
I then cycled out to the site of the former Templehof airport, now a community park where you can cycle on the former runway and taxi-ways, which is a very weird experience, if only for seeing that they are not as flat and level as I had expected them to be.
Then I cycled back into town and had a long cycle round the wall area and the Tiergarten, including stopping off for a very late lunch at the same place I had had dinner the previous evening, before, feeling now very stiff, it was time to head back to the hire shop and return the bike.
I staggered back to the hotel and had a very long hot shower, which relieved a lot of the stiffness and then headed back out for a late night wander round before finally returning to the hotel to grab a late drink at the bar and then to bed.
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After checking out of the hotel and finally managing to find a locker at Zoo station I had about 90 minutes to kill before I needed to head to the airport, so, as it was now chucking it down, I saw a bus that was heading to a random U-Bahn station, was double deck and had empty seats and front, and took it for a mystery tour through some of Berlin’s Southern suburbs.
It worked out quite nicely as by the time I had reached the destination, hopped on the U-Bahn and made it back to Zoo it was time to pick up my bags and head for the airport.
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The hotel is within the station complex so it was a very short walk from the train to the reception desk and then on up to my room.
As it was already quite late I had a quick bite to eat in the bar and then headed to bed.
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After breakfast I headed out into town to have a look around, taking in the remains of the Beverley Gate, one of the former city gates, and arguably the place where the English Civil war kicked off when the city refused to open the gate to King Charles to prevent him getting access to the weapons stored in the town.
I wandered further on past the towns marina, taking in the Spurn Lightship which is moored up there and watching the impressive sea lock at work letting ships out into the Humber estuary. A short walk further along the water front brought me to the river Hull and I followed it back into town stopping off at the Holy Trinity church and then the Church of St Mary the Virgin.
By now the fog had burned off and it was turning into a very pleasant day, so I wandered back through town to the hotel to change into shorts and a T-shirt as it was getting a little too warm for jeans.
After the change I took in a couple of the city’s free museums starting with the Wilberforce house museum before visiting the streetlife and then the Hull and East Riding museums.
It was getting quite late in the day so there wasn’t enough time to visit any more of the museums so instead I hopped on a bus out over the impressive Humber Bridge to Barton-on-Humber to take in the view of one of the most impressive modern structures in the country.
Unlike many of the other impressive bridges in the UK you can actually walk across the Humber Bridge, so I did that. I hadn’t realised quite how wide the bridge was, as it took over 40 minutes to get from one side to the other.
Having crossed the bridge I caught the bus back into Hull and went for some dinner, then to bed.
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I spent a long time looking round the aquarium, which has a lot more than just tanks of fish, and after lunch in their roof-top café taking in the views of the Humber from the bridge to the sea, wandered over to the Maritime museum, which had by then opened.
After the Maritime museum it was a very short walk across the square to the Ferens art gallery and then from there down to the Hands on History museum in the former grammar school.
By now I had exhausted pretty much all that Hull could offer, so I wandered down to the station and caught the train out to the coast for the rest of the afternoon, stopping off at Bridlington.
After a while in Bridlington, including a very nice fish and chips dinner, I wandered back to the station and caught one of the last trains of the day back to Hull and to my room to pack.
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An uneventful journey up to Sheffield on a very full train (one entire carriage was missing along with all the reservations that should have been in that, which created some issues). After arriving in Sheffield it was a short walk up the hill to the hotel to check in.
After checking in and dropping my stuff off I went for a walk around the city centre, taking in the main sights including the Winter gardens located next to the hotel and the outside of the Cathedral.
Unfortunately, the cathedral was already closed for the evening having shut up shop after the evening service, which had taken place a 3pm!
As the weather started to deteriorate I headed back to the hotel to dry off and then, when the rain finally relented a little bit, I headed out for a bit to eat, then back to the hotel for a quick drink and then bed.
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As the train pulled out of Sheffield station it was still a pretty OK day, and it was still fine for the 25 minutes I was waiting on Derby station for the connection, but almost predictably, as soon as I stepped off the train at Matlock Bath the skies decided to open.
Thankfully I was able to find some shelter, but there were quite a lot of very soggy looking people walking past. After 30 minutes the rain eased down into a drizzle so it was less unpleasant to wait in the outside queue to take the cable car up to the Heights.
I spent most of the afternoon up on the Heights taking in the caves and the views before heading back down into Matlock Bath for a very late lunch in a riverside pub before hopping back on the train into Derby and then back up to Sheffield.
I arrived back in town in time to have a look around the Cathedral, which was open much later this evening, before it closed.
I then had a wander around the city centre for a little while, before grabbing some dinner and then heading back to the hotel.
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I had a long wander through the gardens, including the spectacular greenhouse and the carefully restored (though thankfully not returned to original purpose) bear pit.
I wandered back into town and after lunch had a look around the former canal docks in Victoria Quays before heading back into the centre of city for a later afternoon coffee before collecting my bags and heading to the station and the train home.
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I had a wander around the centre of Windsor taking in the castle and the small lanes nearby, and then wandered through the Royal Windsor Shopping centre, which used to be the central station, in fact it still houses a single platform for the shuttle train that runs to Slough, a shadow of its former self, but a fantastic Victorian building that’s had a new lease of life.
My meandering eventually brought me out by the Thames and the ancient town bridge over to Eton.
After taking quite a few photos I headed back into the town centre and grabbed a late night bite to eat before heading to bed.
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After a relatively painless queue (later in the day the queue was at least an hour long), I was into the grounds of the castle. I’d booked a ticket for the tour of the round tower terraces so I headed over there first. After the tour I descended back down to the castle grounds and started the general audio-guided tour around the site.
Again I appeared to have timed my day relatively well as the queue to get into the state apartments wasn’t too bad so I was able to get into there, and get round without too many other people also trying to see everything at the same time.
I had a long wander around the grounds that are open to the public before stopping for a late afternoon coffee and then down to St George’s Chapel to look around that.
With all the sites, that you are allowed to see, in the castle seen, I headed down through town to the riverside to catch one of the last river cruises of the afternoon for a pleasant 40 sail up and down a small stretch of the Thames.
After finishing the boat tour I walked over the bridge into Eton and found a nice pub a bit back from the river where I had a very pleasant dinner.
By the time I had finished dinner it was dark so I had a wander through the streets of Eton in the night before heading back over the river into Windsor and back to the hotel for an early night.
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The first part of the journey was taken in a light drizzle, but this quickly cleared and I was able to take advantage of the open top.
I did a full circuit of the route on both sides of the bus before hopping back off in the centre of Windsor for lunch.
I then walked out onto the Long Walk, the three mile walk that runs from the rear of the castle to the statue of George III on horseback placed there by his son (who didn’t see eye to eye with his dad, so it may explain the substantial distance).
Having taken in the long walk I wandered back into town and picked up the bus out to Runnymede located a couple of miles from Windsor, and the location, in 1215, of the signing of the Magna Carta.
After taking in the small monument and Runnymede, and the very pleasant riverside walk, I headed back into Windsor to pick up my bags and then head home.
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Thankfully, with some shuffling round of planes, it was only 90 minutes late by the time we finally set off from Gatwick and headed to Italy.
There was still a pretty hefty delay in getting the bags at Bologna and by the time the airport bus crawled through the late evening traffic jams into the centre of Bologna it was gone 8:30 and the last bus direct to the hotel had departed for the evening.
In the end I walked the mile or so from the central station to the hotel and checked in, then headed back out into the Bolognese evening to look around the city centre.
Having taken a large number of photos I headed back to the hotel for a well-earned nights rest.
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First stop of the morning was the Torre degli Asinelli and the hefty 500 odd step climb to its top and the stunning views it offers over the city centre, then down to the Piazza Maggiore to pick up the hop-on-hop-off open-top coach tour of the city.
I did two circuits of the route taking in the views before the service ended for its extended lunch break, which I took as a hint to grab a quick bite to eat myself.
Lunch consumed I headed over to the Cathedral to have a look around that before ticking off the Basilica di San Petronio and then wandering over to the land train up to the massive church of San Luca on one of the hills outside the city centre.
The land train runs alongside the Portico San Luca, the longest continuous portico in the world, as it makes it way up the hill.
Having looked round San Luca I picked up the last land train of the day back down into town, stopping to take in the Chiesa del Santissimo Salvatore, before finding a very nice Bolognese restaurant just behind the Piazza Maggiore for a very pleasant dinner before heading back to the hotel
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Second attempt into the town centre, this time making use of the camera on my mobile to take photos, I headed over to the Basilica di San Domenico to have a look around.
By the time I had finished at the Basilica it was lunchtime so I found a very nice restaurant on the Piazza Santo Stefano and had a lengthy lunch before turning my attention to the seven church complex of Santo Stefano.
Having taken in all the sights of the various churches I wandered back through town to the old stock exchange building.
The building has been converted into a public library, and in the process they discovered significant Roman remains in the basement, which they have now turned into an exhibition.
I had a good look around the remains before going for an extended wander around the city centre building up an appetite until it was time to settle down for dinner
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First stop of the morning was the Archaeological museum and its stunning collection of Egyptian and Roman artefacts.
Then it was down to its sister museum a short walk away to look at its collection of Medieval and religious artefacts.
I had a final short wander around the city centre before it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and make my way back to the airport and the flight home.
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With the airport so quiet it was quite surprising to see so many people at the gate room when the flight was finally called.
All boarded and pushing back on time we headed off into the night sky and north towards Norway.
With a strong tailwind pushing us all the way, and a generous timing on the flight schedule we landed in Stavanger 20 minutes early.
A bit of a delay waiting for the luggage, but then through to an equally deserted Stavanger Airport.
As it was late I decided to take a taxi to the hotel. Had I know quite how close the hotel was, and that the 90 second taxi ride was going to cost over £15 I think I would probably have walked.
I checked into the airport hotel and went straight to bed, only to be woken 45 minutes later by a fire alarm which turfed everyone out of the hotel for about 15 minutes before it was back to finish off the attempt at a good nights sleep
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Having dropped my bags off at the station I had enough time to wander down to the harbour to pick up the daily sightseeing tour boat up to the Lysefjorden.
The tour lasted about 3 hours and took in some spectacular scenery, including stopping to sample water straight from a Norwegian waterfall.
Arriving back into Stavanger I went for a long wander around the city centre, taking in the Cathedral and much of the area above the harbour in the Skagen area.
Then it was back to the station to pick up my luggage and head over to my hotel to check in.
After checking in and dropping off all my stuff I headed back out into town to look, unsuccessfully, for some dinner at a reasonable price, settling instead for a sausage from a 7-Eleven store by the Torget.
Then it was back to the hotel for a long, and uninterrupted, sleep
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First stop of the morning was the Stavanger Museum, and after spending quite some time looking round that I wandered around the corner to the slightly less impressive archaeological museum.
I went for a long walk through the Gamle Stavanger area. A collection of around 150 traditional wooden houses, which was originally destined to be demolished in the late 1940’s, but was saved and now forms a particularly picturesque part of the city.
Buried deep in Gamle Stavanger is a reminder of the areas former working past with the Norwegian Canning museum. It sounds like the kind of niche museum which wouldn’t justify a visit, but with the rain starting to really pelt down I dashed inside and spent a very interesting hour finding out not just about canning fish, but the importance that the fishing industry played in fortunes of Stavanger over the years.
With the weather improving slightly I finished off walking through Gamle Stavanger and then walked back around the edge of the harbour.
Having visited one museum that dealt with fish in oil it was now time to visit a museum that just dealt with the Oil.
With the vast reserves of Oil discovered off the coast of Norway in the 1960’s and early 70’s the country went from being one of the poorest in Europe to the richest and the Norwegian Oil Museum tells the history of that transformation, as well as having several interesting displays on what Oil actually is and how you get it from deep underground to the refineries and eventually cars.
By the time I left the museum it was getting dark and time to look for some dinner, so I had another failed attempt at wandering round town and was considering the £47.50 chicken with Cashew nut before deciding I’d rather just pay £4 for some sausages and be done with it.
Thankfully, breakfast had been so filling that by the time I’d finished the sausage I was feeling quite full.
A bit more of a wander around the town centre at night and then it was back to the hotel and my incredibly comfortable bed.
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Sandnes is located at the head of the Gandsfjorden, and the journey down on the train is along some stunning scenery. However, looking out the opposite side of the train its easy to see why the area is often referred to as Stavanger-Sandnes, there is no break in the urban environment.
I had a wander around Sandnes, which on a Sunday morning in late October was deserted. But from the head of the Fjord there were some stunning views.
However, there is only so long you can stare at a view so I wandered back through town and caught the bus back into Stavanger.
I wandered down to the harbour and had a long look around the spectacular maritime museum before heading up out through Gamle Stavanger and into the leafy back roads of the city to the museum houses at Breidablikk and Ledaal.
Having taken in both the houses I had about an hour to spare so I wandered very slowly back through Gamle Stavanger and around the edge of the harbour before heading back to the station to collect my luggage and then hopping on the airport coach back to the airport and the journey home.
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Given it was only 3pm, and I wasn’t actually on leave yet after checking in I fired up the laptop and did a couple of hours work, clearing through most of the emails that had come in whilst at the conference, and then on the dot of 5pm I logged out of the work email and shut down the computer.
As the weather had eased down a little bit to light drizzle rather than the heavy rain of a couple of hours previously I wandered out into town to have a look around.
I wandered in the direction of the Town hall and arrived there as they were in the process of switching on the city’s Christmas lights. Clearly the event had been going for some time, so I was a long way from seeing anything, though I did see the lights around me fire up.
There was a short fireworks display and after taking in that I had a long wander through the city centre, firstly taking in the area around the former central station and then eventually finding myself by the Cathedral on the other side of the city centre.
Having walked quite a long way I decided to be lazy and caught the tram back towards the hotel, stopping off to grab a bite to eat.
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As it had been quite late when I got up, and then even later by the time I had finished stuffing my face at breakfast, it was almost 1pm by the time the train finally made it into Buxton. I had a bit of a wander around the city centre, which has a striking resemblance to Bath, before walking through the Pavilion gardens and out to Poole’s Cavern, located out the back of town.
The cave system is spectacular with a series of amazing chambers and a river running through parts of it, not to mention some of the fastest growing stalagmites in the world.
Having taken in the caves I took the 20 or so minute walk up into the hills to the folly of Solomon’s Temple from the top of which there were stunning views over Buxton.
By now the sun was already starting to get low in the sky so I walked back down to Poole’s Cavern and then on back into town to have a final wander around before heading back over to the station and catching the train back into Manchester.
From Piccadilly station I caught the tram out to The Lowry at MediacityUK in Salford to pick up a ticket for the comedy show the following evening I’d booked to see, and then had a wander round the piazza in front of the BBC’s offices, with the slightly disorienting effect of watching a live BBC sport report on a big screen that was being broadcast from the studio immediately behind my back (but sadly the studio faces the windows so the cameras can’t see people going past).
Then it was back onto the tram to St Peter’s Square to take in the Town hall in a slightly more deserted form, including the slightly creepy giant lit Santa on the roof of the porch.
I walked back from the town hall towards the hotel through Chinatown, so as I was there I stopped off for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel for another good night’s sleep.
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As it was such a lovely day I decided to head out of the city and up into the Lake District. A short walk from the hotel and I was on the platform at Oxford Road station with a couple of minutes to spare before the train north to Oxenholme and then on to Kendal.
I wandered down the hill into town and had a long wander around before following the guided walk up the side of the massive hill overlooking the town and to the ruins of the castle.
I had quite a long look around the castle before returning back into town for a very late lunch and then back to the station in the fading light to catch the train back to Manchester.
The journey up had been pretty smooth, and on a half empty train. The journey back was smooth, but did require changes in both Oxenholme and Preston and all the trains were absolutely heaving.
Back in town I headed over to the hotel, dropped my stuff off and then headed back out over to Salford for a night of comedy at the Lowry.
Virtually immobilised by laughter a couple of hours later I made my way back into Manchester and back to my bed.
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A very short, but wet, walk to the tram stop and out, again, to MediacityUK to visit the attractions in Salford Quays. First stop was the Imperial War Museum North and then after lunch there into The Lowry to see the exhibition and paintings of Salford’s most famous son.
From The Lowry I caught the bus back into the city centre and out to the Manchester Museum located in the middle of the university. It’s like a mini version of the British Library has crashed into a mini version of the Natural History museum with dinosaurs, mummies and a whole host of other artefacts.
I had intended on also visiting the city gallery, but I spent so long in the museum that by the time I went to leave they were already closing, so instead I had a quick bit to eat to fortify myself for the flight, picked up my luggage and headed into the Monday evening Manchester evening rush-hour.
In the end it was pretty much as awful as a London one, with every train delayed, nothing matching up to the indicator boards and complete confusion. Eventually a train arrived showing it was going to the airport (despite the platform indicator saying it was heading to Middlesbrough) so I risked it and got on.
20 minutes later I disembarked, thankfully, at the airport, rather than half way to Yorkshire, checked in and headed to the departures lounge.
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The train arrived at St Pancras and I walked the short distance from the Thameslink station over to the Eurostar check-in and after a very quick check-in and security check I slumped down in a seat at the bar in departures with a burger and a pint.
I barely had time to consume them before they announced our train as ready to board. I joined the throng of passengers heading to the train, and into a packed carriage.
On time, we pulled out of London and tore our way through the Kent countryside and down to the Channel Tunnel.
The train was fast to Gare du Nord, so we were able to run a little early, and we pulled in five minutes ahead of the scheduled time.
From Gare du Nord I walked the short distance to the Gare du L’Est and on to my hotel for the night.
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A comfortable journey, albeit 15 minutes late, I arrived in Strasbourg, caught the tram into the city centre and walked the short distance to the hotel.
After checking in I went for a long walk around the city centre taking in several of the Christmas markets that dot the city at this time of year.
After a while I found myself at the Cathedral, so I had a look around that, and then took advantage of the tower to climb up it and take in the views of the city.
I had a wander down to the riverside and a bit of a walk along there, before hopping on a tram out to the European district where the Human Rights Court and the European Parliament are housed.
Then it was back into town for a quick bite to eat a spot of shopping in the Christmas market and then back to the hotel and an early night.
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The bridge ends in the small German town of Kehl which I had a quick wander around before wandering over to the station and catching the bus back into Strasbourg.
I took the tram across town to the area of the Ponts Couverts, the old covered bridges and the fortified dam/extra large pillbox - Barrage Vauban. After taking in the views here I headed back towards town through the Petite France area, a number of small islands that help split the river L’Ill into several channels.
I ended up back by the ticket office for the boat tours that run around the city centre so I enquired about tickets. Even at three in the afternoon the only tickets left were for the 7pm boat, so I booked onto that and then had a bit more of a wander around the city centre.
I then caught the tram out to the former Citadelle which had been turned into a large park to have a look around there, before heading back into the city centre and a spot more shopping at the Christmas Markets.
I spent quite a bit of time wandering around the various Christmas Markets, picking up gifts for Christmas, so by 6pm I was pretty loaded down. Rather than cart them around with me for the evening on the boat tour I headed back to the hotel and dropped everything off, before heading back through town to the quay for the boat tour.
The tour should do a loop around the Island that the bulk of the city centre is on, before heading off up to the European institutions area. However, due to the volume of rain that had fallen over the previous few days the river was running very high, with large amounts of the water being channelled along the north branch of the river making it impassable under the bridges for the boat, so instead they went up as far as the Barrage Vauban along the southern channel before turning round and coming back, and then heading up to the point where the river empties into the Rhine canal, behind the European Parliament, Council or Europe building and the European Court of Human Rights.
By the time the boat arrived back at the quay there was just enough time to grab a quick late evening Crêpe from the Christmas Market by the Cathedral before heading back to the hotel and bed.
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Unfortunately, when I got there I discovered that due to “Les conditions météorologiques” the gardens had been closed, until next March! So instead I caught the tram back out to the European Institutions district to have a wander around them in the light.
The massive (and some would say as it’s only used for about 12 weeks of the year – white elephant) of the European Parliament building in Strasbourg is the dominant building in the area. Nearby is the more restrained, although still odd-looking building of the European Court of Human Rights, and nearby the incredibly ugly building of the Council of Europe.
After looking around these I caught the tram back into town and had a little wander round before it was time to head back to the hotel, grab my stuff, check out and head for the station and the train back to Paris.
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After checking in and dropping off my stuff I headed out for a bit of evening sightseeing. I had assumed that it was gone 6 on a Sunday evening it would be entirely from the outside, but I was about to be proved wrong.
First stop of the night, just a short hop on a packed metro from the hotel was Notre Dame. I had a walk around the outside and was amazed to find that despite the fact the cathedral was in the middle of Sunday mass it was still possible to visit as a tourist. I had a quick look around, but didn’t feel comfortable taking lots of photos whilst people were worshiping.
From Notre Dame I caught the metro round to the most famous of Paris’s landmarks, the Eiffel Tower. The tower itself is open until 23:45 at this time of year, but messages on the boards above the ticket desks warned of 45 minute wait for lifts to the top, and the queue just to get tickets was pretty massive, so I decided to keep my feet on the ground for tonight and instead take lots of photos.
Back on the metro and up to the Arc de Triomph. I had intended on just looking at the Arc, but on arrival I noticed that there were people not only standing directly underneath it but also on the top of it, so I found the subway under the road and to my astonishment found that it was open until 10pm, so I decided to purchase a ticket and take the 250 odd steps up the inside of the Arc.
There are a couple of small galleries on the way up that give a bit of information on the Arc, its construction and its history, but it’s a half-hearted attempt as they know the real reason people have visited is to get to the top for the stunning views. And I wasn’t disappointed. From the top of the Arc is possibly some of the best views of the city, with all the key monuments clearly visible, and at night beautifully lit up.
Having descended back down from the Arc I caught the Metro round to Montmartre and took the funicular up to the Basilique du Sacré Cœur. Again I was amazed to find that the church was still open, so I had a bit of a look around before realising that it was now well gone 10pm and time to head back to the hotel to get some sleep.
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Having taking in the stunning views from the Cathedral I descended back down to ground level and had a better look around the inside of the building as there wasn’t full mass going on. Then it was down into the metro and round to the Eiffel Tower, but not to climb it, instead I headed down to the river and took one of the many sightseeing cruises leaving from the pontoons down there.
After the sightseeing tour it was time to head up the tower and take in the views, and be amazed by how much people can get away with charging for a sandwich - €7, I decided not to bother!
Descending back down to ground level I started to walk back to the metro at Trocadero station taking some photos of the tower in the strange light that was enveloping it. If took a couple of seconds for the realisation that the reason for the strange light was the impending downpour that even now was starting to spit. I made a hasty exit towards the metro station, but even then I got pretty soaked by the downpour.
I caught the metro out to La Defence, the large area of corporate headquarters and skyscrapers on the edge of the city that ends the formal avenue that starts at Concorde and goes through the Arc de Triomph and on to La Defence.
Having found that it wasn’t possible to go up the Grand Arch that forms the key part of La Defence, and with the time rapidly starting to tick away I caught the metro back to the top of the Champs-Élysées and then took a bus down the length of Frances most famous street to Concorde.
I took quite a few photos at Concorde looking up the Champs- Élysées to the Arc de Triomph and on to La Defence and then it was time to head back to the hotel, collect my stuff, catch the RER round to Gare du Nord and check-in for my Eurostar back to London.
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In the end the flight did operate, but with the usual efficiency of Heathrow it was nearly an hour after our scheduled push back time that we finally started our take off roll.
An uneventful and smooth 90 minutes later the plane touched down in Bergen and after a swift run through baggage and customs it was onto the flybussen into town and the hotel.
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We had a wander through the Bryggen before stopping for a cup of coffee, also as a way of getting out of a particularly spectacular downpour.
As the rain didn’t show any sign of letting up we headed back to the hotel to collect our luggage and then headed down to the Hurtigruten terminal.
There we were updated that our ship was running fine without a problem, but there might be a slight delay as there was a ship moored up that was late back from repairs in Hamburg, and was supposed to have sailed the previous evening.
Eventually, 30 minutes after our ship was supposed to have docked at the end of its journey from Kirkenes, the other ship slipped its moorings and headed off into the rapidly setting sun.
In the end, as our ship was pretty empty, they didn’t need to delay the safety briefing or boarding that much, but cleaning and scheduled maintenance meant that we didn’t depart until about 15 minutes after we were supposed to. However, by then I was stuffed from the excellent evening buffet meal.
As Bergen faded into the distance I headed back to my cabin for some sleep…
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Things must have calmed down eventually, as my alarm woke me at 7am. By then we should have been moored up in Måloy, but with the strong seas overnight we were running quite badly late and so instead of having an early breakfast watching the Norwegian coastline slip by, I had breakfast to the sight of the ship being loaded and unloaded in Måloy.
Thankfully, this proved to be a good thing, as shortly after leaving Måloy the ship entered open water, and it became pretty clear that this was far worse than that which we had encountered overnight. Those who had decided to take a late breakfast didn’t appear to be enjoying it that much.
Quite a few people had disappeared either to the sick bay or to various extremities of the ship by the time we finally left open-water and headed into the small port of Torvik. The ship was originally due to dock for 30 minutes, but running as late as it was, and with very little cargo to load and unload, we ended up departing after just 10 and headed up towards Ålesund, accompanied by an early lunch for those of us who had managed to keep breakfast down and felt up to it.
In Ålesund we went on a Hurtigruten arranged walking tour of the town centre, to take in the Art Nouveau buildings that characterise the town since it was rebuilt in 1904. Thankfully, the stop in Ålesund was quite long, so the ship was able to make up all the lost time by cutting short the visit length and leaving at its scheduled time to head on to the next short stop at Molde.
A pleasant and relaxing cruise across to Molde, but shortly after departure, and whilst dinner was in full swing, the ship entered open sea again. Whilst the rocking wasn’t as bad as in the morning, there were several people who decided not to complete dinner and head back to their cabins, or out onto deck.
About an hour after dinner we docked in Kristiansund, with an hours stop scheduled. However, as we would be docking again in daylight southbound, it was gone 10, and there was still about another 50 minutes of rough water left, I decided to turn in for the night and try to get to sleep before the heavy going started again.
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After a quick breakfast we joined the city sightseeing tour of the city to take in the views and the cathedral, before heading back to the ship to continue the journey north.
The first part of the afternoon was back up the Trondheimfjord that the ship had sailed down the previous evening, the spectacular views along this, the third largest fjord in Norway made it a very interesting section of the journey, culminating with the amazing Kjeungskjær Fyr (lighthouse)
About 90 minutes later, shrouded in an eerie mist, we entered the Stokksundet, a tiny passageway, barely larger than the ship itself, with a spectacular 90 degree turn part way through it, the ship treaded its way through the sound, taking all the skill of the captain.
After a couple more hours sailing (and dinner) we arrived at the second and final port of the day, Rørvik. Just a short stop here to let people stretch their legs and look at the southbound MS Nordnorge, before it was time to board again, and continue our journey north towards the Arctic.
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Overnight the boat had lost yet more time, so the already short stop in Ørnes became an even shorter stop, making up a fair amount of the lost time, the handily non de-iced gangway attached to the ship deterring anyone from wanting to go ashore.
From Ørnes it was a steady sail up the coast to the city of Bodø, punctuated by the visit of King Neptune to baptise all those who were crossing the Arctic Circle for the first time, and then out of spite baptise all of us who had snuck across the arctic circle before without having a ladle full of icy water poured down their necks.
Originally we had planned to just have a look around the city during the three hour stop, but on reading up about the place in the guidebook it was clear that during the winter months there wasn’t going to be much to see. At the same time the organised tour to Saltstraumen was short of numbers to enable it to go ahead, so we booked onto that, along with a couple of other people enabling the tour to go ahead. In the end it proved to be well worth it, partly as we got to see all there was in Bodø from a nice warm coach, but also as the views of the maelstrom at Saltstraumen were spectacular.
By the time we returned to the ship it was clear that the next leg was going to be busy as the café area was almost full with people making the four hour crossing over to the Lofoten islands. Given the previous couple of experiences, as it included a large stretch of open water, it was also likely to be a little rough.
In the end, the journey across the sea to the Lofoten islands was pretty calm, with a clear sky and lots of twinkling stars it did look like we might have been in luck for the Northern Lights, but just before we docked at Stamsund what looked, initially, like mist, turned out to be a very heavy and prolonged snow shower which lasted all the way through the short stop at Stamsund and the 90 minute sail across to Svolvær.
We arrived in Svolvær with the snow falling heavily, and already a large accumulation on the ground. This makes it all the more strange that a large group of us took the opportunity to go to somewhere even colder in the shape of the Magic Ice gallery of Ice sculptures.
We had about 45 minutes in Svolvær to have a look at the gallery and a little wander around town before it was time to get back on board and continue the journey through the night further north.
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A little further on and we finally reached the back edge of the snow and within minutes the scenery had changed from low clouds and snow to clear skies and a wide vista across snow covered mountains. About an hour later we docked at Finnsnes, which was still covered in snow, but in the glorious sun it appeared like a fairy tale version of a Norwegian town.
After a short stop in Finnsnes it was back on the boat and North again, this time to the capital of Arctic Norway, Tromsø.
There were a range of activities that had been arranged in Tromsø, including city coach tours and walking tours, but as I’d already had a couple of days in Tromsø a few years earlier I opted instead to go husky sledging in the countryside just outside of town.
We were met at the quayside by a coach from the centre which took us out to the Husky centre, about 25KM out of town. After kitting up in very warm snow suits we got into our sledges and went for a 30 minute ride through the countryside with the Alaskan Huskies clearly enjoying it as much as their human passengers.
After the ride there was a little time to meet some of the dogs, and then have coffee and cake in a traditional Sami tent before catching the coach back to Tromsø and re-boarding the boat.
We continued sailing north towards Skjervøy, and whilst we did, very faintly, the Northern lights started to appear in front of the boat. They were only very slight, a green trace that only really showed up on long exposure photos, but we had at least found some, the question was would there be any more before the end of the trip.
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First stop of the morning was the town of Havøysund where there was just time to take a few photos before we continued north to Honningsvåg and an important excursion north, very north.
Honningsvåg is located at the southern end of Magerøya Island. The road runs up from here along the edge of the island to the Nordkapp, the North Cape. This is supposedly the northern most point of Mainland Europe. Given that the neighbouring Knivskjellodden is more than a kilometre further north, and that as it’s all on Magerøya island it can’t really be called part of the European mainland, it’s a bit of a dubious claim, but nobody else is disputing (or possibly has the money to build the tourist infrastructure to match) so it is to the Nordkapp that people come to say they’ve made it to the top of Europe.
The coach ride from the port was very interesting in itself across this frozen island, with metres deep snow, small isolated fishing villages, and for the last 13Km of the journey a compulsory convoy behind a massive snow plough.
For all the claims against it, the Nordkapp is incredibly remote, and with the sea cliffs feels like it is the end of something. The visitors centre includes the usual selection of “most northerly” – Post box, coffee shop, toilets etc. It also has a cinema which regularly shows a film of the North Cape during the different seasons which gives an impression of how remote this place is, and, more importantly, how spectacularly lucky we had been with the weather – clear blue skies (when the sun finally made it into the sky) and no wind.
After just over an hour at the Nordkapp it was time to head back across Magerøya to the ship and continue our journey, no longer northwards, now to the east, turning across the top of Norway and starting our descent towards the Russian border.
However, the wonderful weather had another surprise left in store for us, as several times during the evening, including during the middle of dinner, which everyone hastily abandoned, we were treated to the stunning Northern lights dancing across the sky, wrapping the whole view in a green glow with ribbons almost billowing in the solar breeze.
With the awesome power of the universe clearly demonstrated I went to bed, ready for the voyages turning point.
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We had originally booked to go on a tour to the Russian border, but unfortunately, not enough people had signed up for it so it had been cancelled the previous evening. In the end this proved to be no bad thing as we were able to get the bus out to the spectacular museum in Kirkenes to have a look around that.
With the ruthless precision that nobody ever gives the Norwegians credit for (perhaps it’s the accompanying laid back attitude that make everyone think things just happen) the bus reappeared at the museum just before 12:15 and took us back, via the town centre to the Hurtigruten waiting at the quayside, ready to start the Southbound journey (albeit with a day’s sailing North to begin with)
Getting back on the boat was a slightly strange experience as many of the people we had been sailing with for the last 6 days had only been doing the short cruise, and had left the ship at Kirkenes to go to the airport and then home, and with only a handful of people joining the ship to do the 6 day Southbound cruise the boat suddenly felt a lot quieter.
The ship set sail on time, for once, and headed out across the mouth of the Varangerfjorden towards its next stop at Vardø, the most easterly point of Norway, further east than Istanbul or St Petersburg.
At Vardø there was enough time to have a look around the tiny, but perfectly preserved Vardøhus fortress made all the more pretty by the deep snow piled up in the moat and on the ramparts.
Whilst we had dinner the ship stopped at Båtsfjord and then a couple of hours later pulled in for a very quick stop at Berlevåg, then it was time to turn in for the night during which we would turn again and begin the actual journey South.
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First main stop of the day was Hammerfest, a town which had grown almost out of recognition since my last visit in 2008. Since then the Liquid Natural Gas terminal has opened on the outskirts of town and along with gas the money has really started to flow into town. Row upon row of modern blocks have been thrown up in the intervening years, along with a new cultural centre and lots more housing. This was all clearly visible from the coach tour that we did of the town, and even more so when it went to the viewing point on Mount Salen.
What was also obvious was a distinct change in the weather, with a biting wind dropping the already low -7C to an icy -25C with the wind-chill. Thankfully, we were only out of the coach for a couple of minutes at the two stops – Mount Salen and the Meridian Column. The tour dropped us back at the boat just before departure time and with the last passenger back on board we slipped our moorings and moved back out of the harbour.
With the icy winds and choppy seas we ended up being nearly an hour late by the time we finally reached Øksfjord, and what was supposed to be a short stop was extended by problems loading the cargo, so we were still quite late when we headed off out into the open sea towards Skjervøy.
We were originally due into Skjervøy at the same time as dinner was due to start, but with the delays we sat down to dinner in the middle to quite a breeze with waves crashing over parts of the ship, on several occasions the windows of the restaurant got a soaking, and that is three floors above the waterline. However, for everyone who had been through the previous Tuesdays crossing between Måloy and Tørvik, this was just a mild swell.
Sjkervøy was again supposed to be a quick turn around, but ended up taking longer than the booked stop, so we headed out towards Tromsø quite a long way behind schedule and the midnight concert in the arctic cathedral rapidly being pushed back closer to 1am.
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After a good night’s sleep and a late breakfast I was out on deck in time to watch the ship tread its way through the spectacular Risøyrenna channel, a 100 wide and just 7m deep dredged channel which enables the Hurtigruten to thread a path through the waters to serve the Vesterålen islands rather than taking the more inland route near Narvik and missing out both the Vesterålen and Lofoten’s
Then it was a short 90 minute cruise to Sortland, the capital of Vesterålen, where I had a brief wander around town before hopping back on board for lunch and the sail south to the founding home of the Hurtigruten – Stokmarknes
At Stokmarknes there was time to look around the Hurtigruten museum and the preserved D/S Finnmarken. When I visited several years ago, whilst travelling on the 1990’s built MS Nordlys, the Finnmarken did look incredibly dated and of another world. Compared to the MS Lofoten, it looks like she’s only just come out of service; it was quite striking the similarities (including a very similar deck layout) between the Finnmarken and my home for the last 9 days.
After Stokmarknes there was a demonstration out on the deck from the chef into how to properly prepare a salmon, including the opportunity to sample some different ways of marinating or serving the fish.
We then headed for the, supposedly, spectacular Raftsundet. Unfortunately the weather was closing in fast with the snow clouds almost enveloping the ship so it was difficult to see more than a few meters around the boat, though it was very obvious that the cliffs had come an awful lot closer!
Given there was nothing to see the captain obviously decided rather than cruising through the Raftsundet at a leisurely pace, allowing people to take in the views he went through at the maximum permitted speed and we arrived into Svolvær nearly 30 minutes early.
I had a long wander around the centre of Svolvær, but at 6pm on a very snowy Tuesday evening, apart from other Hurtigruten passengers, the town was deserted, so I eventually returned to the ship ready for dinner on departure.
After Svolvær we stopped at Stamsund for a short while, before heading out into the very choppy waters of the Vestfjorden for the overnight journey to Bodø.
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Just before 9:20 most people went out on deck, into the glorious morning sunrise, and stood there as a single mournful blast on the ships horn saluted the monument to the Arctic Circle and we crossed the invisible line and out of the Arctic region. This was followed by the “traditional” southbound ceremony of having fish-liver oil; I think I preferred the ice cubes down the back on the northbound leg!
First daylight stop of the morning was at Nesna for a few minutes, and then we continued on our journey south, the weather noticeably having improved from the previous biting winds and snow. Just before lunchtime we arrived at Sandnessjøen and had an hour’s stop, so there was enough time to get off the ship and have a little wander around the town.
As the stop at Sandnessjøen coincided with the start of lunch most people were back on board the ship just over half way through the stop to continue the daily grind of consumption of vast quantites of food.
Leaving Sandnessjøen the ship route goes past the mountain range known as the seven sisters, which helped to remove the chill wind that had been blowing across us all morning. This accompanied by the beautiful sunshine saw a sudden rash of deck chairs being erected on decks still glistening with ice.
The beautiful sunshine lasted until the stunning sunset that made the mountains glow red and the sea shimmer pink as we slowly glided into Brønnøysund just before 4pm. I had a wander around the town and took a few sunset pictures before it was time to head back to the boat and continue south to the accompaniment of the 'Captains Dinner'
After dinner we docked again at Rørvik, with the northbound ship arriving just after us. There was an opportunity to look around the Northbound ship, the Richard With. I’d been on an almost identical ship back in 2008, the Nordlys, but I had forgotten quite how enormous they are compared to the tiny Lofoten (though they are themselves dwarfed by modern day cruise liners)
As we left Rørvik and headed for a 2 hour crossing of open sea I settled down to bed.
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The walk was very interesting, with a lot more of the city centre seen than on the coach tour the previous week, though the slippery conditions made it quite hard going, and meant that we had to hurry the last part of the tour to make sure we made it back to the ship in time for its departure.
We then had another long sail up the Trondheimfjord, the same stretch of water that we had covered just over a week ago, before the ship reached the end of the fjord and turned south heading towards Kristiansund. As this was going to be quite repetitive the crew livened things up for us by flooding our cabins.
Overnight they had identified a series of piped which had frozen whilst we had been travelling and with first light had set about defrosting them, unfortunately a combination of a 50 year old ship and over-enthusiasm ensured that the piped unfroze in the predictable manner by bursting. The ensuring spurting water seeped into a couple of cabins, mine included.
To be fair to them, the second they realised what was happening they stopped and then set about making sure the cabins were sorted. It meant that for the last night on the ship I had a beautifully shampooed and steam dried carpet.
I had a quick wander around Kristiansund when we moored up and decided, in the daylight, that it was a much nicer town than I had thought in the dark. Then it was back on the boat for a pretty rough open sea crossing, during which time most people were making a start on packing their bags, and were consequently regularly out on deck trying to stop themselves feeling seasick!
Dinner started just as we cleared the open sea so was a calmer affair, if significantly depleted. As far as Kirkeness the whole restaurant had been full each night. It had thinned out a bit after Kirkeness, but not at much as had happened after Trondheim, almost half the spaces were free!
The late evening stop was in Molde for 45 minutes so I had a wander around town for a while, then came back to the ship to finish packing whilst the boat was static and then headed to bed.
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During breakfast we made the final stop at Florø, and then slipped our moorings for a final time to start the 6 hour sail round to Bergen and the end of the cruise.
As it was a full ship booked from Bergen in the evening they asked us to vacate our cabins by 10, so most of the morning was spent either sat in the café or out on deck, the weather having become really rather pleasantly warm in the sun (though still bitterly cold as soon as you caught any wind).
Just before 2 the sides of the islands, which had previously been dotted with occasional summer houses gave way to more intense levels of housing and a short while later the urban sprawl of Bergen came into view.
For a ship that, at times, had been over an hour late, we tied up at Bergen exactly on time. After disembarking and collecting our luggage from the terminal it was then a short walk back up the hill to the Scandic hotel to check back in for the evening.
Having dropped everything off we went for a wander around Bergen, ending up at the aquarium with plenty of time left before it closed to have a look around.
A quick stop for a bite to eat, and then, quite early, but needed to bed in a room that didn’t move around and didn’t have the sound of an engine throbbing away underneath it all night.
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When I’d visited Bergen previously the Cable car had been out of action due to high winds, but today with a clear blue sky and barely a breath of wind it was running, albeit incredibly busy with people taking it to the top of Ulriken mountain to go skiing.
Having taken in the views from the top we descended in a considerably less packed car and then back into town. A quick wander round to the Bryggen museum and a stop for a cup of coffee, then the Håkon Hall and the fortress museum before running out of things to do as by that point all the museums were closing, but there were still several hours before we needed to be at the airport.
We caught the funicular back up to the top of mount Fløyen and popped into the restaurant up there for a late afternoon snack and hot chocolate. Fløyen was, if anything, busier than Ulriken with skiers and winter hikers so it took some time to get the funicular back down, which thankfully killed the final amount of time that we had so it was back to the hotel to collect luggage and then over to the airport and the flight home.
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In the end the flight did operate, but with the usual efficiency of Heathrow it was nearly an hour after our scheduled push back time that we finally started our take off roll.
An uneventful and smooth 90 minutes later the plane touched down in Bergen and after a swift run through baggage and customs it was onto the flybussen into town and the hotel.
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We had a wander through the Bryggen before stopping for a cup of coffee, also as a way of getting out of a particularly spectacular downpour.
As the rain didn’t show any sign of letting up we headed back to the hotel to collect our luggage and then headed down to the Hurtigruten terminal.
There we were updated that our ship was running fine without a problem, but there might be a slight delay as there was a ship moored up that was late back from repairs in Hamburg, and was supposed to have sailed the previous evening.
Eventually, 30 minutes after our ship was supposed to have docked at the end of its journey from Kirkenes, the other ship slipped its moorings and headed off into the rapidly setting sun.
In the end, as our ship was pretty empty, they didn’t need to delay the safety briefing or boarding that much, but cleaning and scheduled maintenance meant that we didn’t depart until about 15 minutes after we were supposed to. However, by then I was stuffed from the excellent evening buffet meal.
As Bergen faded into the distance I headed back to my cabin for some sleep…
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Things must have calmed down eventually, as my alarm woke me at 7am. By then we should have been moored up in Måloy, but with the strong seas overnight we were running quite badly late and so instead of having an early breakfast watching the Norwegian coastline slip by, I had breakfast to the sight of the ship being loaded and unloaded in Måloy.
Thankfully, this proved to be a good thing, as shortly after leaving Måloy the ship entered open water, and it became pretty clear that this was far worse than that which we had encountered overnight. Those who had decided to take a late breakfast didn’t appear to be enjoying it that much.
Quite a few people had disappeared either to the sick bay or to various extremities of the ship by the time we finally left open-water and headed into the small port of Torvik. The ship was originally due to dock for 30 minutes, but running as late as it was, and with very little cargo to load and unload, we ended up departing after just 10 and headed up towards Ålesund, accompanied by an early lunch for those of us who had managed to keep breakfast down and felt up to it.
In Ålesund we went on a Hurtigruten arranged walking tour of the town centre, to take in the Art Nouveau buildings that characterise the town since it was rebuilt in 1904. Thankfully, the stop in Ålesund was quite long, so the ship was able to make up all the lost time by cutting short the visit length and leaving at its scheduled time to head on to the next short stop at Molde.
A pleasant and relaxing cruise across to Molde, but shortly after departure, and whilst dinner was in full swing, the ship entered open sea again. Whilst the rocking wasn’t as bad as in the morning, there were several people who decided not to complete dinner and head back to their cabins, or out onto deck.
About an hour after dinner we docked in Kristiansund, with an hours stop scheduled. However, as we would be docking again in daylight southbound, it was gone 10, and there was still about another 50 minutes of rough water left, I decided to turn in for the night and try to get to sleep before the heavy going started again.
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After a quick breakfast we joined the city sightseeing tour of the city to take in the views and the cathedral, before heading back to the ship to continue the journey north.
The first part of the afternoon was back up the Trondheimfjord that the ship had sailed down the previous evening, the spectacular views along this, the third largest fjord in Norway made it a very interesting section of the journey, culminating with the amazing Kjeungskjær Fyr (lighthouse)
About 90 minutes later, shrouded in an eerie mist, we entered the Stokksundet, a tiny passageway, barely larger than the ship itself, with a spectacular 90 degree turn part way through it, the ship treaded its way through the sound, taking all the skill of the captain.
After a couple more hours sailing (and dinner) we arrived at the second and final port of the day, Rørvik. Just a short stop here to let people stretch their legs and look at the southbound MS Nordnorge, before it was time to board again, and continue our journey north towards the Arctic.
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Overnight the boat had lost yet more time, so the already short stop in Ørnes became an even shorter stop, making up a fair amount of the lost time, the handily non de-iced gangway attached to the ship deterring anyone from wanting to go ashore.
From Ørnes it was a steady sail up the coast to the city of Bodø, punctuated by the visit of King Neptune to baptise all those who were crossing the Arctic Circle for the first time, and then out of spite baptise all of us who had snuck across the arctic circle before without having a ladle full of icy water poured down their necks.
Originally we had planned to just have a look around the city during the three hour stop, but on reading up about the place in the guidebook it was clear that during the winter months there wasn’t going to be much to see. At the same time the organised tour to Saltstraumen was short of numbers to enable it to go ahead, so we booked onto that, along with a couple of other people enabling the tour to go ahead. In the end it proved to be well worth it, partly as we got to see all there was in Bodø from a nice warm coach, but also as the views of the maelstrom at Saltstraumen were spectacular.
By the time we returned to the ship it was clear that the next leg was going to be busy as the café area was almost full with people making the four hour crossing over to the Lofoten islands. Given the previous couple of experiences, as it included a large stretch of open water, it was also likely to be a little rough.
In the end, the journey across the sea to the Lofoten islands was pretty calm, with a clear sky and lots of twinkling stars it did look like we might have been in luck for the Northern Lights, but just before we docked at Stamsund what looked, initially, like mist, turned out to be a very heavy and prolonged snow shower which lasted all the way through the short stop at Stamsund and the 90 minute sail across to Svolvær.
We arrived in Svolvær with the snow falling heavily, and already a large accumulation on the ground. This makes it all the more strange that a large group of us took the opportunity to go to somewhere even colder in the shape of the Magic Ice gallery of Ice sculptures.
We had about 45 minutes in Svolvær to have a look at the gallery and a little wander around town before it was time to get back on board and continue the journey through the night further north.
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A little further on and we finally reached the back edge of the snow and within minutes the scenery had changed from low clouds and snow to clear skies and a wide vista across snow covered mountains. About an hour later we docked at Finnsnes, which was still covered in snow, but in the glorious sun it appeared like a fairy tale version of a Norwegian town.
After a short stop in Finnsnes it was back on the boat and North again, this time to the capital of Arctic Norway, Tromsø.
There were a range of activities that had been arranged in Tromsø, including city coach tours and walking tours, but as I’d already had a couple of days in Tromsø a few years earlier I opted instead to go husky sledging in the countryside just outside of town.
We were met at the quayside by a coach from the centre which took us out to the Husky centre, about 25KM out of town. After kitting up in very warm snow suits we got into our sledges and went for a 30 minute ride through the countryside with the Alaskan Huskies clearly enjoying it as much as their human passengers.
After the ride there was a little time to meet some of the dogs, and then have coffee and cake in a traditional Sami tent before catching the coach back to Tromsø and re-boarding the boat.
We continued sailing north towards Skjervøy, and whilst we did, very faintly, the Northern lights started to appear in front of the boat. They were only very slight, a green trace that only really showed up on long exposure photos, but we had at least found some, the question was would there be any more before the end of the trip.
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First stop of the morning was the town of Havøysund where there was just time to take a few photos before we continued north to Honningsvåg and an important excursion north, very north.
Honningsvåg is located at the southern end of Magerøya Island. The road runs up from here along the edge of the island to the Nordkapp, the North Cape. This is supposedly the northern most point of Mainland Europe. Given that the neighbouring Knivskjellodden is more than a kilometre further north, and that as it’s all on Magerøya island it can’t really be called part of the European mainland, it’s a bit of a dubious claim, but nobody else is disputing (or possibly has the money to build the tourist infrastructure to match) so it is to the Nordkapp that people come to say they’ve made it to the top of Europe.
The coach ride from the port was very interesting in itself across this frozen island, with metres deep snow, small isolated fishing villages, and for the last 13Km of the journey a compulsory convoy behind a massive snow plough.
For all the claims against it, the Nordkapp is incredibly remote, and with the sea cliffs feels like it is the end of something. The visitors centre includes the usual selection of “most northerly” – Post box, coffee shop, toilets etc. It also has a cinema which regularly shows a film of the North Cape during the different seasons which gives an impression of how remote this place is, and, more importantly, how spectacularly lucky we had been with the weather – clear blue skies (when the sun finally made it into the sky) and no wind.
After just over an hour at the Nordkapp it was time to head back across Magerøya to the ship and continue our journey, no longer northwards, now to the east, turning across the top of Norway and starting our descent towards the Russian border.
However, the wonderful weather had another surprise left in store for us, as several times during the evening, including during the middle of dinner, which everyone hastily abandoned, we were treated to the stunning Northern lights dancing across the sky, wrapping the whole view in a green glow with ribbons almost billowing in the solar breeze.
With the awesome power of the universe clearly demonstrated I went to bed, ready for the voyages turning point.
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We had originally booked to go on a tour to the Russian border, but unfortunately, not enough people had signed up for it so it had been cancelled the previous evening. In the end this proved to be no bad thing as we were able to get the bus out to the spectacular museum in Kirkenes to have a look around that.
With the ruthless precision that nobody ever gives the Norwegians credit for (perhaps it’s the accompanying laid back attitude that make everyone think things just happen) the bus reappeared at the museum just before 12:15 and took us back, via the town centre to the Hurtigruten waiting at the quayside, ready to start the Southbound journey (albeit with a day’s sailing North to begin with)
Getting back on the boat was a slightly strange experience as many of the people we had been sailing with for the last 6 days had only been doing the short cruise, and had left the ship at Kirkenes to go to the airport and then home, and with only a handful of people joining the ship to do the 6 day Southbound cruise the boat suddenly felt a lot quieter.
The ship set sail on time, for once, and headed out across the mouth of the Varangerfjorden towards its next stop at Vardø, the most easterly point of Norway, further east than Istanbul or St Petersburg.
At Vardø there was enough time to have a look around the tiny, but perfectly preserved Vardøhus fortress made all the more pretty by the deep snow piled up in the moat and on the ramparts.
Whilst we had dinner the ship stopped at Båtsfjord and then a couple of hours later pulled in for a very quick stop at Berlevåg, then it was time to turn in for the night during which we would turn again and begin the actual journey South.
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First main stop of the day was Hammerfest, a town which had grown almost out of recognition since my last visit in 2008. Since then the Liquid Natural Gas terminal has opened on the outskirts of town and along with gas the money has really started to flow into town. Row upon row of modern blocks have been thrown up in the intervening years, along with a new cultural centre and lots more housing. This was all clearly visible from the coach tour that we did of the town, and even more so when it went to the viewing point on Mount Salen.
What was also obvious was a distinct change in the weather, with a biting wind dropping the already low -7C to an icy -25C with the wind-chill. Thankfully, we were only out of the coach for a couple of minutes at the two stops – Mount Salen and the Meridian Column. The tour dropped us back at the boat just before departure time and with the last passenger back on board we slipped our moorings and moved back out of the harbour.
With the icy winds and choppy seas we ended up being nearly an hour late by the time we finally reached Øksfjord, and what was supposed to be a short stop was extended by problems loading the cargo, so we were still quite late when we headed off out into the open sea towards Skjervøy.
We were originally due into Skjervøy at the same time as dinner was due to start, but with the delays we sat down to dinner in the middle to quite a breeze with waves crashing over parts of the ship, on several occasions the windows of the restaurant got a soaking, and that is three floors above the waterline. However, for everyone who had been through the previous Tuesdays crossing between Måloy and Tørvik, this was just a mild swell.
Sjkervøy was again supposed to be a quick turn around, but ended up taking longer than the booked stop, so we headed out towards Tromsø quite a long way behind schedule and the midnight concert in the arctic cathedral rapidly being pushed back closer to 1am.
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After a good night’s sleep and a late breakfast I was out on deck in time to watch the ship tread its way through the spectacular Risøyrenna channel, a 100 wide and just 7m deep dredged channel which enables the Hurtigruten to thread a path through the waters to serve the Vesterålen islands rather than taking the more inland route near Narvik and missing out both the Vesterålen and Lofoten’s
Then it was a short 90 minute cruise to Sortland, the capital of Vesterålen, where I had a brief wander around town before hopping back on board for lunch and the sail south to the founding home of the Hurtigruten – Stokmarknes
At Stokmarknes there was time to look around the Hurtigruten museum and the preserved D/S Finnmarken. When I visited several years ago, whilst travelling on the 1990’s built MS Nordlys, the Finnmarken did look incredibly dated and of another world. Compared to the MS Lofoten, it looks like she’s only just come out of service; it was quite striking the similarities (including a very similar deck layout) between the Finnmarken and my home for the last 9 days.
After Stokmarknes there was a demonstration out on the deck from the chef into how to properly prepare a salmon, including the opportunity to sample some different ways of marinating or serving the fish.
We then headed for the, supposedly, spectacular Raftsundet. Unfortunately the weather was closing in fast with the snow clouds almost enveloping the ship so it was difficult to see more than a few meters around the boat, though it was very obvious that the cliffs had come an awful lot closer!
Given there was nothing to see the captain obviously decided rather than cruising through the Raftsundet at a leisurely pace, allowing people to take in the views he went through at the maximum permitted speed and we arrived into Svolvær nearly 30 minutes early.
I had a long wander around the centre of Svolvær, but at 6pm on a very snowy Tuesday evening, apart from other Hurtigruten passengers, the town was deserted, so I eventually returned to the ship ready for dinner on departure.
After Svolvær we stopped at Stamsund for a short while, before heading out into the very choppy waters of the Vestfjorden for the overnight journey to Bodø.
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Just before 9:20 most people went out on deck, into the glorious morning sunrise, and stood there as a single mournful blast on the ships horn saluted the monument to the Arctic Circle and we crossed the invisible line and out of the Arctic region. This was followed by the “traditional” southbound ceremony of having fish-liver oil; I think I preferred the ice cubes down the back on the northbound leg!
First daylight stop of the morning was at Nesna for a few minutes, and then we continued on our journey south, the weather noticeably having improved from the previous biting winds and snow. Just before lunchtime we arrived at Sandnessjøen and had an hour’s stop, so there was enough time to get off the ship and have a little wander around the town.
As the stop at Sandnessjøen coincided with the start of lunch most people were back on board the ship just over half way through the stop to continue the daily grind of consumption of vast quantites of food.
Leaving Sandnessjøen the ship route goes past the mountain range known as the seven sisters, which helped to remove the chill wind that had been blowing across us all morning. This accompanied by the beautiful sunshine saw a sudden rash of deck chairs being erected on decks still glistening with ice.
The beautiful sunshine lasted until the stunning sunset that made the mountains glow red and the sea shimmer pink as we slowly glided into Brønnøysund just before 4pm. I had a wander around the town and took a few sunset pictures before it was time to head back to the boat and continue south to the accompaniment of the 'Captains Dinner'
After dinner we docked again at Rørvik, with the northbound ship arriving just after us. There was an opportunity to look around the Northbound ship, the Richard With. I’d been on an almost identical ship back in 2008, the Nordlys, but I had forgotten quite how enormous they are compared to the tiny Lofoten (though they are themselves dwarfed by modern day cruise liners)
As we left Rørvik and headed for a 2 hour crossing of open sea I settled down to bed.
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The walk was very interesting, with a lot more of the city centre seen than on the coach tour the previous week, though the slippery conditions made it quite hard going, and meant that we had to hurry the last part of the tour to make sure we made it back to the ship in time for its departure.
We then had another long sail up the Trondheimfjord, the same stretch of water that we had covered just over a week ago, before the ship reached the end of the fjord and turned south heading towards Kristiansund. As this was going to be quite repetitive the crew livened things up for us by flooding our cabins.
Overnight they had identified a series of piped which had frozen whilst we had been travelling and with first light had set about defrosting them, unfortunately a combination of a 50 year old ship and over-enthusiasm ensured that the piped unfroze in the predictable manner by bursting. The ensuring spurting water seeped into a couple of cabins, mine included.
To be fair to them, the second they realised what was happening they stopped and then set about making sure the cabins were sorted. It meant that for the last night on the ship I had a beautifully shampooed and steam dried carpet.
I had a quick wander around Kristiansund when we moored up and decided, in the daylight, that it was a much nicer town than I had thought in the dark. Then it was back on the boat for a pretty rough open sea crossing, during which time most people were making a start on packing their bags, and were consequently regularly out on deck trying to stop themselves feeling seasick!
Dinner started just as we cleared the open sea so was a calmer affair, if significantly depleted. As far as Kirkeness the whole restaurant had been full each night. It had thinned out a bit after Kirkeness, but not at much as had happened after Trondheim, almost half the spaces were free!
The late evening stop was in Molde for 45 minutes so I had a wander around town for a while, then came back to the ship to finish packing whilst the boat was static and then headed to bed.
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During breakfast we made the final stop at Florø, and then slipped our moorings for a final time to start the 6 hour sail round to Bergen and the end of the cruise.
As it was a full ship booked from Bergen in the evening they asked us to vacate our cabins by 10, so most of the morning was spent either sat in the café or out on deck, the weather having become really rather pleasantly warm in the sun (though still bitterly cold as soon as you caught any wind).
Just before 2 the sides of the islands, which had previously been dotted with occasional summer houses gave way to more intense levels of housing and a short while later the urban sprawl of Bergen came into view.
For a ship that, at times, had been over an hour late, we tied up at Bergen exactly on time. After disembarking and collecting our luggage from the terminal it was then a short walk back up the hill to the Scandic hotel to check back in for the evening.
Having dropped everything off we went for a wander around Bergen, ending up at the aquarium with plenty of time left before it closed to have a look around.
A quick stop for a bite to eat, and then, quite early, but needed to bed in a room that didn’t move around and didn’t have the sound of an engine throbbing away underneath it all night.
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When I’d visited Bergen previously the Cable car had been out of action due to high winds, but today with a clear blue sky and barely a breath of wind it was running, albeit incredibly busy with people taking it to the top of Ulriken mountain to go skiing.
Having taken in the views from the top we descended in a considerably less packed car and then back into town. A quick wander round to the Bryggen museum and a stop for a cup of coffee, then the Håkon Hall and the fortress museum before running out of things to do as by that point all the museums were closing, but there were still several hours before we needed to be at the airport.
We caught the funicular back up to the top of mount Fløyen and popped into the restaurant up there for a late afternoon snack and hot chocolate. Fløyen was, if anything, busier than Ulriken with skiers and winter hikers so it took some time to get the funicular back down, which thankfully killed the final amount of time that we had so it was back to the hotel to collect luggage and then over to the airport and the flight home.
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For once, the snow wasn’t having too much of an impact, as less than 15 minutes after clearing security, and a full hour before departure time, the gate number came up, and by the time I’d meandered over to the gate boarding had already commenced.
In reality they had been hoping to get us all on board early, which they achieved, as we had a good 15 minute divert at the airport to a holding pen to be thoroughly doused with de-icing fluid, which given the build-up of snow on the wings, nobody was complaining about.
Thankfully with a strong tail wind and generous timetabling on easyJet’s side we arrived into Porto a few minutes early, but sadly not early enough to enable me to make either the once every three hours direct coach to Braga, or the Metro into Porto that left 10 minutes later. Instead I had a 25 minute wait at the airport before getting the Metro into town, which then left me with just 8 minutes to make the connection to the train out to Braga.
When I got to Campanhã station, at the same time as a spectacular cloud burst, there was a massive queue for tickets and I did think that my chance of making even the train an hour later were looking dubious, when I then spotted the ticket machine that nobody appeared to want to use, so I got my ticket out of that and made the train with about 30 seconds to spare.
I was quite surprised that at half one on a Friday afternoon the train was quite so full. Full enough that it was over half an hour before I finally managed to get a seat. Having arrived in Braga, with the skies threatening another spectacular downpour, I caught a taxi over to the hotel, getting into my room at the same point as the heavens opened again.
When the rain finally abated about an hour later I wandered out of the hotel to have a look around the city centre, stopping off at the Cathedral and visiting the Museu Pio XII and the medieval tower. I’d been having such a nice wander that I’d failed to notice what the weather was doing, and it was only as I started to head back to the hotel that I noticed quite how dark the sky had become. In the end I nearly made it back to the hotel, getting within 100 yards of the hotel when an absolute downpour started at full speed – none of this increasing intensity from a light drizzle, it was straight into full monsoon.
It was still chucking it down an hour later after I had dried off, so I decided to have dinner in the hotel restaurant, rather than heading out into the weather again.
By about 9pm it had stopped raining so I went out for an evening walk and to take in more views of the city, before heading back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.
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After a leisurely breakfast I headed out of the hotel and had a wander through the city centre, taking in the sights before heading over to the site of the Roman Baths, arriving shortly after they opened for the day.
I had a look around the Baths, and the neighbouring archaeological museum before going for a long wander around the city.
Having stopped for a quick cup of coffee overlooking the Praça da Republica I picked up the bus out to the stunning Bom Jesus do Monte.
Access to the site is either by funicular railway (which was on a lunch break when I arrived) or by walking up the amazing Escadaria do Bom Jesus with its chapels, water fountains, and stunning views over the city centre.
I had originally thought it would be a walk up the staircase and I’d be back down for the bus 90 minutes later. However, after 90 minutes I had only just gotten to the top of the staircase having stopped so regularly to take in the views and to look at the different chapels and water features.
By the time I’d finished taking in the church and sights at the top of the stairs it was getting into the late afternoon, so I stopped for a very late lunch/very early dinner at the café on the edge of the staircase, with its view out over the surrounding countryside. Bathed in the late afternoon’s sunshine and warmth, and with good food and a cold beer I very nearly had to walk all the way back down as I was in danger of missing the last funicular back down to the bus stop. Thankfully, I made it with a bit of time to spare.
Back in town I had a further wander around before heading back to the hotel for an early night.
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I had a long wander around an almost completely deserted Braga. The city is one of the most conservative, and Catholic in the country and early on a Sunday morning it did appear that absolutely everyone was at mass.
I eventually ended up around the back of the Cathedral just after midday as the morning mass was coming to an end, and at that point, as several churches emptied out, the city centre suddenly came alive with people other than tourists wandering around.
I walked over to the other major Roman ruins in the city, which should by now have been open, but due to a technical fault their door was jammed shut so they were unable to accept visitors.
By now it was starting to cloud over quite rapidly and I was left with a choice. I could continue to wander around the city centre for another 40 minutes or so before heading to the coach station and taking the bus back to the airport, or go straight to the station and catch the train back into Porto.
Given that it did look like it was going to pour down with rain soon, and that the train was quite a bit cheaper than the bus I decided to head over to the hotel, pick up my things and wander back to the station.
In the end the cloud lifted again so it didn’t rain, but with a comfortable seat the whole way this time I was able to take in the stunning views of the Northern Portuguese countryside from the train on the way back into Porto.
Getting to Campanhã station in Porto I had around 10 minutes to make the connection for the half-hourly metro to the airport, which would have been fine if all the ticket machines had been working, but there were only two and the queues were quite long. In the end, for the second heart stopping time in two days, I managed to get the ticket out of the machine, slap it against the validator and leap onto the now waiting metro with a second or so to spare before the doors closed.
A 40 minute ride later I arrived at the airport, checked in, dropped by bags off and headed for the departure gates.
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Within about 5 minutes of checking in I discovered that the first aim may have been defeated as the toilet continued to slowly drain from the cistern into the bowl long after the flush had been pressed. It didn’t appear to want to stop, but it did want to make quite an irritating dripping water noise, that was clearly audible in the whole room.
I saw the guy on reception and he looked at his computer, bit his bottom lip and apologised that the hotel was completely full so he’d try and come and fix it.
After 10 minutes with the screwdriver in the tanks behind the room (now I know what all those fire doors in the corridors in hotels between rooms contain!), during which time I had checked on line and confirmed that every other hotel within a three mile radius of the airport was also full, he confirmed that it was “knackered” and the drip couldn’t be stopped.
He said to wait where I was for a moment and zipped back downstairs, reappearing a couple of minutes later with a new key card – whilst the hotel was fully booked, not everyone had turned up yet so I was moved rooms and the last person to check in tonight (assuming they arrived) would be getting the water torture.
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Thankfully, the queue did move relatively quickly, so that I was sitting in the lounge 20 minutes before the planned departure time, and early enough to see the nine (yes they were that specific) minute delay go onto the flight.
With a quick boarding we ended up pushing back just on nine minutes late and headed out for one of the world’s most impressive take-offs over the Thames, Docklands and City of London. After some bumpiness over the Thames estuary we settled into the flight with a full cooked breakfast, which thankfully had all been cleared away again when, somewhere over the Pyrenees we hit some really bad turbulence which had everyone diving for the nearest seat if they were stood up.
The worst only lasted a few seconds and it couldn’t have been more than about 5 minutes of bouncing around, but it felt like a lot longer. We were all quite glad when the captain announced we were on our descent into Palma and would be on the ground within 20 minutes.
After a painfully slow queue for passports and a long walk through the airport I arrived at the baggage belts to see my luggage already coming round, so it was a quick collect and through to the bus into town.
Having dropped off my stuff at the hotel I headed back out, starting by walking into town along the sea front and then, near the cathedral, picking up the open-top sightseeing bus. I did two circuits of the route (one on each side) to take in all the key sights, by the end of which I was feeling quite cold so I wandered back to the hotel to warm up and to collect my jacket that I had hung up in the wardrobe thinking I wouldn’t need it.
I wandered back into town and had a long walk around the city centre, partly as it was starting to get late trying to find a restaurant that was open, without much luck. In the end I had given up and was walking back to the hotel when I came upon a street full of restaurants which were all in the process of opening.
After a very filling meal I walked the short distance back to the hotel.
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Having looked around there I had intended on catching the open-top bus one stop up to the Castell de Bellver, but as it was such a lovely morning I stayed on all the way back into town, bathing in the warmth and sun.
In town I visited the Royal Palace and the Cathedral, pausing between the two for a traditional Spanish long lunch. I then had a long wander through the labyrinth of small roads and alleyways of the old town, stumbling almost by accident upon both the Arabic Baths, so I had a look around them, before heading back to the bus stop near the Cathedral and finally taking the bus up to the Castell de Bellver.
I clearly hadn’t timed my visit particularly well as within a couple of minutes of arriving at a deserted car park, getting my ticket and walking towards the entrance nearly 20 full coaches crested the hill into the grounds and started to disgorge tour group after tour group.
In the end I spent quite a bit longer than I would probably have done at the site, just because it took so long to see anything, though I probably saw more than the tour groups, each of which was brought in round and out in less than 20 minutes flat. I spent longer than that just standing on the roof of the main building captivated by the stunning views over the Bay of Palma.
The car park was still a mess of badly parked coaches when I got back, just in time for the City Sightseeing bus to arrive and then very loudly on his horn point out to one of the coach drivers that he was parked in a bus stop (I didn’t know those open-top buses had such loud, or aggressive horns!) As he threaded his way back out of the car park, blasting his horn at every coach that attempted to reverse out on him, the bus driver proved who was in charge.
I got off the bus at the stop nearest to the hotel and walked back to drop my stuff off and freshen up.
A bit later, refreshed, I walked the short distance back to the street I had discovered the previous evening and fell upon the menu of a tapas restaurant devouring quite a lot of what was on offer.
Sated, and fit to burst, I staggered back to the hotel.
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After a rushed breakfast I headed out of the hotel to the bus stop and caught the normal bus into town, making it to the train station for the Tren Sóller with about 5 minutes to spare. I caught this amazing train out through the Majorcan countryside, up into the mountains and then down to the town of Sóller.
There I changed onto the connecting tram down to the beach and harbour at Port de Sóller. I had a long wander around the place, stopping for a mid-morning ice-cream and a coffee. At the time I thought I had probably made a mistake by coming straight down here, as I was too early for lunch at any of the countless restaurants all set with stunning views over the harbour and the snow-capped mountains.
I caught the tram back into Sóller and had a brief wander around town before hitting the beautiful main square and finding the countless restaurants there, all ready for lunch. I had an amazing platter of local specialities (local cheese, hams, bread, olives and peppers) washed down by some stunning fresh lemonade made with the local lemons that hang on every tree that isn’t an orange tree in the valley.
Stuffed, for not the first time on this trip, I continued having a wander around this stunning town, stopping at the station to take in the two excellent, and free, exhibitions of work from Picasso and Joan Miró. Then it was a longer wander through the town to the botanical gardens.
After looking round the gardens I was left with a decision to make. There was a bus back to Palma in 20 minutes time that would take a stunning route up along the coastline and then through the mountains, but I had no idea where it left from, or I could wait about an hour and catch the train back to Palma.
I decided to have a wander round the edge of town to head for the station, just in case I came across a bus stop. The wander worked slightly more spectacularly and quickly than I was expecting as I turned down a street and instantly came across the bus station.
The ride through the mountains was stunning with mountain top town and coastline hugging roads that were very reminiscent of the Amalfi coast. By the time I arrived back into Palma the light was just starting to fade, so I headed back to the hotel to freshen up.
As I still felt full from lunch (and probably the previous evening’s dinner) I went for an evening wander, but steered clear of the street with all the good restaurants in it, before heading back to the hotel for what I hoped would be a better night’s sleep.
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First stop of the morning was the modern and contemporary art gallery Es Baluard. The gallery has been built within the walls of the former Saint Peter Bastion using both modern concrete and the original stone walls of the fortress. It makes for an amazing building with the modern and historical merging into one.
Having spent quite a long time looking round the gallery, and taking in the views from the roof, I headed down into town and caught the bus out along the coast to the resort town of S’Arenal to have a look around.
I’d had an idea of what the place might be like, and it didn’t fail to keep up to my pretty low expectations.
I had a bit of a wander around and then took the land train the 5KM or so along the prom to the preceding resort of Can Pastilla, having a quick look round there before catching the next train back.
By now the skies were becoming increasingly threatening, and it was fast approaching the time I needed to start making a move towards the airport, so I cut my losses and caught the bus back into the centre of Palma and walked back to the hotel.
Having collected my luggage I walked down to the road by the side of the marina and picked up the airport bus there, thankfully early on its journey so I was able to get a seat, unlike the people who got on in the centre of town.
I arrived at the airport about 20 minutes before checkin was due to open so I stopped at a café for a very late lunch before heading to the checkin desk and starting my journey home.
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A major signal failure (which on checking later was still causing problems for the last train of the night), had taken out the signals and the train couldn’t progress any further.
After sitting there for about 15 minutes the decision was taken to reverse us back up the line to the previous station of Sandling, “detrain” us all and put us on buses.
The first element worked OK, with the train getting back into Sandling relatively easily. We all disembarked and walked to the car park for the replacement bus, at which point the guard, having checked the train was empty, got back on the train and it shot off back to Ashford leaving us all stranded.
20 minutes later there was still no sign of any replacement bus, and no sign of anyone from SouthEastern wanting to take responsibility, so I gave up and phoned for a cab.
By the time the cab arrived there still hadn’t been a bus to take people on, so I was rather glad that I’d acted unilaterally (although in the knowledge that SouthEastern were going to refuse point blank to refund me).
Having checked into the hotel and dropped my stuff off I went for a wander along the sea-front and then wandered through Hythe, partly to take in the place, and also to see if there was anywhere to get dinner.
However, just as I was starting to consider options there were the first drips of rain and a look at the sky implied that if I wanted to remain dry I might want to consider the hotel as an option.
I managed to get to within 100 yards of the hotel before the cloudburst started. Thankfully I wasn’t too soaked, but it was clear over the next couple of hours that I’d made the correct decision to eat in the hotel as the wind whipped around the hotel lashing rain in all directions.
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I caught the bus into Folkestone and had a look around the town centre, catching the funicular railway down to the beach and having a wander through the old town before heading back to the bus station and catching the local bus out to the site of the former Air base at Hawkinge.
This base was the closest one to Dover and the front line during the Battle of Britain. Today virtually the whole site has been developed into a housing estate, but one small corner with a couple of hangers and a few Nissen huts still remains as a museum to those brave men and women of the RAF who protected the country during its darkest hour.
After looking around the museum I caught the bus back into town and then picked up another bus to go up onto the top of the North Downs and the Battle of Britain Memorial at Capel le Ferne. With its cliff-top position looking out to the coast of France and the Horizon, from where wave after wave of Luftwaffe planes headed towards England during those desperate months in 1940, it’s a moving site. The simple memorial of a pilot sat looking out to sea, and a single wall with the names of those airmen who gave their lives being a sobering reminder of how much people had to fight to retain their freedom.
The weather was deciding to enhance the melancholy mood by closing in around the site as I sat having a cup of tea in the visitors centre with the first sleety drops of rain buzzing round in the air.
From the memorial site I caught the bus on into Dover and then another bus up to the entrance to the castle.
By the time I got to the castle the weather was rapidly deteriorating into heavy rain accompanied by a biting wind ripping in off the channel. I had a bit of a wander around the castle and took in both the keep and the underground tunnels before giving up and heading back down into town to catch the bus back to Hythe.
Crossing back over the North Downs near the Battle of Britain Memorial the weather deteriorated so much that it was impossible to see more than a few feet in front so the bus slowed to a crawl over the top of the downs.
Back in Hythe with the weather settled down into a thin penetrating drizzle I headed back to the hotel to dry off, warm up and have dinner, before another pleasant night’s sleep listening to the weather scour the rear of the hotel.
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After breakfast and checking out I walked through town in a light drizzle to the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch railway station to catch the train out to Dungeness.
I had a long wander around Dungeness, which is a truly strange location, the seemingly endless shingle beach, the multiple lighthouses, the lunar like landscape, and the whopping great big Nuclear power station.
I climbed up the old lighthouse to take in the views, which were sadly not more than a mile or so due to the weather. After descending I popped into the Britannia Inn for a spot of lunch.
On emerging from the Inn it was difficult to tell if I was still in the same place. In the space of 45 minutes the clouds had completely cleared and instead there was a stunning blue sky. Whereas before I could barely see more than a mile into the gloom I now could clearly make out the coast of France, the downs coming down to meet the sea between Folkestone and Dover and in the opposite direction what looked suspiciously like Beachy Head some 30+ miles away.
I caught the train back to New Romney and had a quick wander around, before realising that the station is stuck quite a long way away from both the beach and the rest of the town, so I had a look around the museum and model railway before catching the next train on to Dymchurch.
There it was much easier to get out to the beach, albeit the beach having disappeared under a very high tide, but with the sun beating down it was a really pleasant afternoon to have a stroll along the prom with an ice cream.
I wandered back to the station and caught the train back into Hythe, managed a very quick connection onto the bus back the three stops (lazy I know) to the bus stop near the hotel, walked down to the hotel, picked up my stuff and was back at the stop in time to pick up the bus 30 minutes later into Folkestone.
The bus arrived a few minutes early into Folkestone so I had enough time to make the seven minute walk to the station and catch the train an hour earlier than I had planned. Settling down into the seat, this time actually heading between Folkestone and Sandling in the correct direction.
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By the time I left work shortly after 5pm there were still some major delays occurring, nearly 12 hours after the initial incident, but thankfully the trains were in a sufficient enough mess that I caught one to St Pancras almost straight away, and whilst it dawdled through South London and took nearly an hour to do what should normally take 30 minutes I was still at St Pancras with time to spare.
I grabbed a light bite to keep me going in the Pret in the 20 minutes I had spare before my train left, then wandered up to the platform and headed north.
In only a few minutes longer than it had taken to get the 9 miles from Croydon the train managed the 100 miles up to Leicester, arriving a few minutes early.
A short walk from the station and I found myself at my hotel. After checking in and dropping my stuff off I headed out into town for a brief wander around, before finding a curry restaurant, for which the city has a justified excellent reputation, and a delicious evening meal.
Feeling a little bloated I headed back to the hotel and to bed.
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If I’d been slightly more awake when I’d been planning the morning I might have noticed that the castle wasn’t actually due to open until the following Saturday. Consequently I got all the way to Kirby Muxloe to find that the castle was closed. However, given its location on an island in a lake it’s possible to see much of the castle, and get some very good photographs, without actually going inside.
From Kirby I caught the bus back into Leicester and then picked up the bus back out to Ashby de la Zouch to look around the castle there, which was open.
I had a long wander around the castle, made longer still by needing to dive for cover as a torrential hail storm passed through, and then went for a bit of a wander around town.
I was considering spending more time looking around the town, but with the bus back to Leicester due and the sky looking like it wanted a rematch on getting me soaked I decided to head back to the bus stop, and within seconds of getting onto the bus the skies once again opened and another torrential hail shower thundered down.
By the time I had gotten back to Leicester you wouldn’t have believed that it had been so foul. With a clear blue sky and warm sun it felt like a proper summer afternoon.
I had a bit of a wander around the city centre, taking in the Jewry wall, St Mary and St Nicholas churches and the Cathedral.
I was wandering back to the hotel to freshen up before heading out to dinner when the weather finally managed to get the better of me as the skies opened whilst I was crossing the large open space in front of the Magazine gate. By the time I had made the cover of the university buildings just 30 or so yards away I was soaked.
After drying off and freshening up I wandered back into the city centre and found another really good restaurant and topped the stomach back up to full
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Having checked out and left my bags with the hotel I wandered over towards the Cathedral to take in one of the most recent additions to Leicester’s tourist attractions. Looking at a car park might appear a little bit of a strange sight, but given it was under this car park that archaeologists discovered the remains of the last King of England to die in battle just a few months earlier it puts it a bit more in context.
Nearby is the medieval guildhall, and there they were holding an exhibition on the dig and the background to both Leicester at the time and why a Kings remains ended up where they did.
From the guildhall I wandered over to the Newarke Houses Museum and Gardens to have a look around them, and then, as they had a sign advertising it was open for just that day, the Castle hall building.
Having stopped for a very late lunch I wandered back in the direction of the hotel to take in the New Walk museum and Gallery.
By the time I left the gallery, shortly before it was due to close, there was just about time to have a late cup of coffee before heading back to the hotel to collect my things and then wander back to the station, past the statue of one of Leicester’s more famous son’s and another Travelling Tom, Thomas Cook.
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Thankfully with the previous flight having already left, and all the shops and restaurants already closed, there was no danger of us having a late get-away and sure enough as soon as the gate number was flagged up everyone in the departures lounge stood up and wandered in the same direction.
From the almost balmy climate of Gatwick it was a bit of shock when 90 minutes later I emerged from the terminal building at Glasgow into a cold drizzle and walked the short distance to the Holiday Inn and my bed for the night
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I had a cup of coffee in Paisley before heading up to the station and catching the train south to Ayr. At Ayr I walked through town in a mild drizzle to the hotel and checked in.
Having checked in I decided, having checked timetables and directions to head out to Dundonald castle near Troon.
The first part of the journey to Troon was OK, but in increasingly bad weather I wandered down to the bus stop to wait for the bus to Dundonald, only to find, when it appeared slightly further down the road, that despite the bus stop having the timetable up, the bus didn’t actually stop there, but round the corner and far enough down the road that there was no way I was going to make it, and with only one bus an hour, and the next one not getting me to the castle until after last entrance for the day, I decided to abandon all attempts and trudged back to the station, soaked and not particularly happy.
Back in Ayr I had a bit of a wander around the town, but the weather was slowly getting even worse, so around 4:30 I decided to give up, wandered back to the hotel and had a very long hot bath to warm up.
As dinner time approached the rain changed from torrential to cataclysmic so I decided not to bother going out and instead had dinner in the hotel. However, shortly after finishing dinner I looked out of the window and noticed that it had finally stopped raining and the sun was starting to break through the clouds, just in time to produce a stunning sunset.
I grabbed my jacket and camera and headed out to take some photos and have a much drier wander around town.
After a good hours wander I came back to the hotel, had a quick drink in the bar and then turned in for the night.
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Having had an early breakfast I walked down to the station hopped on a train to Kilwinning and then changed there onto the train to Ardrossan harbour and the ferry to Arran.
From the ferry terminal I caught the bus that ran round the southern half of the island to take in the stunning views. In theory this bus connected in Blackwaterfoot with the bus doing the northern half of the island, but as to be expected with public transport in the UK the bus was late, the connection didn’t wait and I had 40 minutes to wait in Blackwaterfoot for the next bus going anywhere.
After a brief picnic lunch on the sea front the next bus arrived which was taking the direct route back to the capital, Brodick, across the centre of the island over the main road – The String. Whilst it wasn’t what I had been originally planning I was very quickly happy I had been forced to take this bus as the views as it climbed into the mountains of the centre of the island were stunning.
Back in Brodick I had a quick wander around town, before catching another bus out to the visitors centre at Cladach to have a look around the Isle of Arran Brewery.
From the brewery I wandered over to the castle to have a look around there, before it was time to catch the bus back into Brodick and make my way back to the mainland and Ayr.
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After breakfast I went for a short wander around the town centre before heading over to the bus station to catch the bus out to Culzean and the castle there.
The Castle, gifted to the nation by the Kennedy family after WWII is set in stunning grounds, which have been turned into a country park.
I spent virtually the whole day wandering around the park and castle taking in all the sights.
There was so much to see that in the end I had to miss a few things just to be able to make the irregular bus back to Ayr.
I had a bit more of a wander around Ayr, looking for somewhere to have dinner, before realising that on a Sunday evening there wasn’t anywhere, not even the fast-food restaurants which had all closed, so I headed back to the hotel and had dinner there
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Dunure is home to an impressive set of castle ruins (a former home of the same Kennedy family as Culzean) and I had a good look around them and a wander around town, before heading back to the bus stop and catching the bus part way back into Ayr to the town of Alloway.
Alloway is to Scotland what Stratford-upon-Avon is to England. Birthplace of Scotland’s most celebrated son Robert Burns, the town has embraced Burns in much the same way that Stratford has Shakespeare.
The whole town is Burns focused, from the Birthplace cottage, through the impressive museum to the Poets Walk, the Auld Kirk, Burns Monument and even the Brig O’ Doon.
I spent several hours in the town taking in all the Burns sights, before heading back into Ayr for a final wander around the town and brief spot of exercise taking the Lang Scots Mile walk along the seafront.
Then it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bags and head for the Airport and my flight home.
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The train was fast to Banbury so barely an hour from leaving Marylebone I was disembarking and heading across town to the hotel.
Having dropped my stuff off I headed out into town for a long wander, taking in the key sights before grabbing a late bite to eat and then back to the hotel and the giant comfy bed in my room.
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Taking a risk I caught a bus out to the small Cotswolds village of Hook Norton to have a look around the Hooky brewery museum and see if I could get on a brewery tour.
Unfortunately the tours were all booked for the day so I could only have a look around the small museum and try a tasting of a few beers.
I caught the bus back into Banbury and then walked over to the station to catch the train into Oxford, just down the line, where there were more things to do.
From the station I jumped on one of the hop-on-hop-off open-top tour buses that run round the city centre to take in the main sights.
After doing a full circuit I got off in the centre of town and had a bit of a wander, taking in Balliol College.
Having spent quite a bit of time wandering around town I caught the last open-top bus of the day back round to the station and picked up the train back to Banbury, thankfully managing to catch the last train for some time as everything else was delayed or cancelled due to problems back up the line.
I had a bit more of a wander around Banbury before stopping for dinner and then back to the hotel for an early night.
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I went on a very interesting walking tour round some of the Colleges and the Bodleian Library before heading over to the castle to have a look round that.
After going on a tour of the castle, and taking in the views from the top of the original Norman mound I caught the open-top bus back to the station and headed back to Banbury.
Of course, if this had been Germany there would have been left-luggage lockers at the station where I could have stored my bag during the day so that I could then have picked it up and gone straight out on the next train, but unfortunately it isn’t (though the train company is owned by Deutsche Bahn!) so instead I had a 15 minute walk across town to pick up my bags, and then walk the 15 minutes back to pick up the train.
I’d thought by going for a train around 6pm that had started in Birmingham might have made it a little emptier than if I’d gone for the slightly later one that would have started in Stratford-upon-Avon shortly after Shakespeare museum kicking out time. It probably was, but it didn’t feel that way as I squeezed myself into the last window seat for the journey back.
At the next and final stop, Bicester the heaving platforms confirmed that the train back was going to be as cosy as the train out.
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After having to let two full buses go I eventually squeezed onto one of the last night buses of the morning and headed into the airport, packed between a couple of other bleary eyed travellers and the 6:30 shift at the airport.
Having checked in the previous day it was a quick bag drop, security and then breakfast, during which nearly an hour before it’s departure time, and with only a sip of coffee drunk, that my flight flashed up as boarding.
I wandered down to the gate and waited for 20 minutes before they actually started the process of boarding us onto the bus out to the plane.
An uneventful flight later we touched down in Warsaw where I collected my bag, wandered up to departures and checked it straight back in again through to Katowice. I had a couple of hours to kill at the airport so I had a wander down to the café furthest from my next flights gate for an early lunch so that I could kill some more time wandering back to the gate afterwards.
The flight was called and the 20 or so passengers collected at the gate. We were put onto a transfer bus, normally used to holding 80 or 90 people, and bussed out to the small propeller plane parked out of sight of the airport building.
A second uneventful flight of the day and we were down in Katowice. A very smooth journey through the airport meant that I was outside the terminal building with my bag less than 10 minutes after the plane had come to a stand, and more importantly, in time to catch the shuttle mini-bus into Katowice.
The bus dropped me off near the hotel. After checking in I wandered out into town to have a look around.
I had a bit of a wander, but it soon became clear that Katowice isn’t what you might describe as a pretty city, or with that much to see. After about an hour wandering I headed back to the hotel to grab dinner and then an early night to make up for the very early start.
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I went for a bit of a wander around the town centre, trying to see if there was anything worth visiting. I visited the Silesian museum and spent a fair amount of time taking in the exhibitions there, before heading up to the Cathedral to look round.
A bit more of a wander around the town presented a couple more nice churches and a decent park, but there was very little to keep me in the centre so instead, after a quick consult of the guidebook, I headed down to the station to catch the train into the town of Opole.
The main site worth visiting, according to the guide book, was the only remaining tower of the former castle for the stunning views over the city that were available from the top.
Unfortunately, the tower itself was closed for renovation, but I still had a pleasant afternoon wandering around the pretty streets of the town, taking in the riverside views and the very pretty restored Rynek.
After a quick pit-stop for a snack in one of the many bars facing the town hall I headed back to the station to pick up the train back to Katowice.
Given it’s only just over 100Km from Opole to Katowice the train took over two hours, so it was already dark by the time I got back to Katowice.
I wandered back to the hotel, and after a quick drink in the bar turned in for the night.
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The massive park covers 620 hectares and includes lots of attractions. I started off by catching the tram up to the very top of the park to visit the ethnographic museum.
After looking around that I had a long wander back through the park until I eventually reached the Zoo towards the southern end of the park.
I went into the zoo and to begin with it all appeared pretty OK, but part way round I started to have real qualms about it, several of the animals were pacing backwards and forwards over small areas in their cages, most noticeably the single elephant and one of the two brown bears.
Even more concerning was the visible rib-cage in the rather thin looking lion, which could just have been the zoo ensuring it was having a diet closer to what it would get in the wild – I suppose a really tubby lion would possibly be even worse – but it didn’t add to the general feeling of unease about the zoo.
With the weather starting to close in a bit I decided to head back into town and finished off walking through the park to the tram stop.
Within a few seconds of boarding the tram a massive shower came down that made me very thankful that I had left the zoo when I did. By the time I got back into the city centre it had calmed down to a light drizzle, but the threatening clouds made it clear it was only a brief rest bite, so I decided to head back to the hotel, arriving a couple of minutes before another cloudburst.
After the weather finally calmed down for the night I headed out to find a bite to eat, then it was back to the hotel for a nightcap before turning in.
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After checking out I wandered back through town to the station, arriving with about 20 minutes to spare before the train. However, this is Poland and from previous experiences I should have realised that the train was likely to be late.
In the end it was almost 15 minutes late leaving Katowice, so I wondered how late it was going to be by the time it had completed its three hour trek across central Poland
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I walked the short distance from the station to the hotel and checked in.
Having dropped my stuff off I headed back into town to have a wander around and take in the sites, including climbing back up St Anne’s Belfry as I had done when I first visited Warsaw.
With spots of rain in the air I had a wander around the old town for a bit, finding myself in the Rynek as the drips of rain started to get harder. I was forced to seek shelter in an accommodating bar at the side of the square and sit out the downpour with a pint.
By the time the rain had finally cleared it was starting to get late so I had a bit more of a wander around the old town, taking in the city walls and Barbican before heading back towards the castle to try and find somewhere to eat.
I found what looked like a very nice restaurant service traditional Polish cuisine and took a seat. Where I then sat for half an hour trying to get served, even making eye contact with a number of the staff, but to no avail, they clearly didn’t want to serve (they were ignoring quite a few customers).
Frustrated I left to find another restaurant, where I had a very nice meal, and spent the time between courses composing a short, sharp and pointedly negative review of the first restaurant to post on TripAdvisor.
Sated both for food and revenge I headed back to the hotel.
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I took advantage of a short break in the downpours to head over to the central station and pick up the hop-on-hop-off (thankfully with its open top covered for the day) bus to go on a tour of the city.
By the time the bus made it back an hour later the weather had deteriorated even further so I stayed on and went round another time taking in the sights from the opposite side of the bus.
On the second arrival back at the central station the rain had temporarily eased off to an unpleasant drizzle so I quickly wandered round to the Palace of Culture and Science to take in the views of the city from the top of the tower.
Thankfully the clouds had lifted enough to get some OK views for a little while, but then the cloud rolled in again so I headed back down.
I caught a tram into the old town and carefully leaping between cover made it to a café near the castle where I had a late lunch watching people getting soaked.
Around 3 the cloud suddenly parted and the sun started to shine, so I took that as a hint to make a move back to the hotel to collect luggage and then head out to the airport.
I was thankful I’d taken the hint as a few moments before reaching the railway station the skies opened again. It was still chucking it down a couple of hours later as the plane took off into a monsoon on its way back to the relative dry of the UK.
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Having dropped my stuff off I headed out for a wander around town in the glorious sunny evening.
I had a long wander around the centre of Birmingham taking in the area round Victoria Square and then heading over towards the canals at Brindley place.
After a long wander I headed back to the hotel to grab a bite to eat and an early night.
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Today just before you enter Wall you pass under the M6 Toll motorway, and then the A5 road before reaching the main street running through the village, Watling Street, following the same path it has since the Romans built it to link Rutupiae to Viroconium (Now Richborough near Sandwich, Kent and Wroxeter in Shropshire). Clearly still the best route to get from the South East of England to the north of Wales.
The reason for visiting Wall was to have a look at the remains of the Roman staging post that sat beside Watling Street. Today just parts of the Bath house and a Mansio have been uncovered but even these small remains give an idea to the importance of this route.
I had a bit of a wander around Wall hoping that I could find the bus stop for the bus on into Lichfield as I didn’t really fancy the two mile walk back in the hot sun, but just as I spied it in the distance the once every two hours bus sailed passed me and the bus stop. So instead I retraced my steps back to Shenstone and the train back into Birmingham.
After a quick lunch stop in Birmingham I headed back out the opposite side of the city towards Stourbridge Junction and then on the tiny train that runs down the hill into Stourbridge Town, I had a bit of a walk around Stourbridge, but there wasn’t that much to see, and I was only killing time until the bus for the final leg of my journey onto Kinver was due.
I got off the bus in the centre of Kinver and walked the mile or so out to the Rock Houses at Kinver Edge.
Having had a look around the rock houses I had a bit of a walk along Kinver edge and up to the little church that is perched spectacularly overlooking the town centre. I then walked back down into town just in time to miss the bus back into Stourbridge, so I stopped for a pint at the pub just by the bus stop.
I caught the next bus into Stourbridge and wandered over to the station to catch the train back up the hill to Stourbridge junction and then on into Birmingham. Unfortunately, the train had developed a fault so they had cancelled all the services for the foreseeable future, so instead I wandered back to the bus stop and picked up the bus back into Birmingham, which took quite a bit longer, but did at least give me a chance to see some different bits of the West Midlands.
On the plus side, the bus dropped me back even closer to the hotel than the train would have done. After a quick freshen up I wandered out into Birmingham to find dinner.
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By the time I finally arrived in Dudley it was already well gone 12, and by the time I made it down to the Dudley Canal Trust I had missed the 12:30 tour of the Dudley tunnel, so I stopped there for an early lunch before taking their 13:00 tour.
Thankfully, the Canal Trust has an entrance into the back end of the Black Country Living Museum, my next stop of the day, so I didn’t have to walk quite a long way back round, and in fact found myself straight away in the main part of the site.
I had a long wander around the museum taking in all the sites, and going down into one of the surviving drift mines underneath the museum.
In the end, there was so much to see at the museum that I ended up having to leave when they closed the museum for the night, which meant it was too late to visit the neighbouring Dudley Zoo. Instead I caught a bus up the hill to the bus station and changed there onto a bus back into Birmingham.
After dinner in town I had a late evening walk around the centre of Birmingham, taking in the quite scary sights of Broad Street on a Saturday night with people paralyticly drunk at barely 10pm staggering alongside a canal where there was no rails to stop them falling straight in, though none did.
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The tour finishes by returning to the city centre going through the Broad Street tunnel and the link between the BCN and the Worcester and Birmingham Canal, doing an impressive three point turn at the MailBox and then coming back through the Broad Street tunnel to its mooring point.
I had a bit more of a wander around the canal area, before stopping for a late lunch, and then heading back over to Victoria Square to pick up the open-top sightseeing bus.
The tour took in most of the centre of Birmingham, as well as the Jewellery quarter and the very picturesque suburb of Edgbaston.
By the time the bus made it back to Victoria Square it was time to wander back over to the hotel, collect my luggage and head for home.
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I had a smooth journey down to Gatwick, and up until about 45 minutes before the flight was due to depart everything appeared to be running smoothly, then for no given reason the flight suddenly went to being 45 minutes delayed, which is a pretty big delay on a 60 minute flight.
We were eventually called to a gate 20 minutes after we were supposed to have departed, and by the time we finally pushed back it was nearly an hour late, though BA did have a pretty compelling reason, the plane we should have been on had developed a technical fault and they wanted to use a working plane instead!
An uneventful flight saw us land on a runway at Schiphol airport that was probably closer to Rotterdam than it was to Amsterdam. Doing at least 30 mph the plane still took over 15 minutes to get to the gate, and once there it was another 20 minutes’ walk through the terminal building to get to immigration and baggage.
Having collected my stuff I wandered down to the train station to wait for my train to Groningen.
Over 3 hours after landing at Schiphol I finally disembarked the train at Groningen and found a taxi to take me to the hotel.
It was thankfully a very quick checkin and then straight to bed.
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In predictable form the first place I headed to was the tower of the Martinikerke to take in the views over the city. Then after a quick pit stop sitting in the Grote Markt recovering from pounding up and then down 150 odd steps, I had a look around the church itself.
With the weather looking like it was about to change I headed back over towards the station to pick up the canal tour of the city. I managed to arrive with a minute or so to spare before the first of the afternoon’s heavy showers pounded down.
The tour itself was quite interesting, but with the commentary only in Dutch and German I didn’t understand most of it. Though how many people heard much of it when the rain was pounding on the glass roof of the boat is another question.
After completing the tour I walked the short distance over the bridge to the Groninger Museum, only getting slightly soaked on the way. I had a long wander around the museum taking in the different galleries and stopped for a very late lunch/early dinner in the café.
The skies looked like they were clearing, and with about five hours of daylight left; I decided to catch the train out to the nearby coastal town of Delfzijl.
About halfway through the train journey it became apparent that the weather hadn’t cleared as first a bank of dark cloud approached and then dumped another massive downpour on the Dutch countryside. By the time I reached Delfzijl it had reduced to a grotty mixture of fine drizzle alternating with short periods of heavier rain, whipped up by a stiff breeze coming off the land rather than the sea.
I had a bit of a wander around by the beach and the seafront, and after a little while it did start to clear, with even a speck of blue sky appearing, around the same time that the mists cleared to reveal Germany a few kilometres away across the channel. I walked back through the centre of town to the train station and got there a few minutes before the next hefty shower made its presence felt.
By the time I got back into Groningen it was starting to brighten up again, or as much as it can in the last hour before sunset, so I walked back to the hotel, had a quick drink in the bar and then headed to bed.
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I walked into town and had a wander around the flea market in the Vismarkt before having to make the first of several dives for cover as a short, sharp and very cold shower passed over.
Having missed that I wandered over to the North Eastern corner of the old town to have a look around the gardens of the Prinsentuin and then wandered back to the Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum and had a long look around there, carefully missing several more cloudbursts in the meantime.
By the time I left the Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum it was late afternoon and I had by now exhausted all of the attractions available in Groningen, so I wandered over to the railway station and picked up the train south to the town of Zwolle.
The train journey managed to help me avoid another stiff shower and by the time I arrived in Zwolle it had turned into a very pleasant sunny afternoon.
I had a long wander around the town, sadly I’d arrived a little too late to visit anything as all the museums and attractions had already closed for the evening, but that didn’t matter as the pretty town centre was worth the visit just by itself.
Having seen most of the city centre I was trying decide whether to stop for dinner here or head back to the station when I noticed the massive black cloud rising on the horizon. I decided to make a fast saunter to the station to catch the train back to Groningen, and about 5 minutes after arriving at the station was rewarded with the biggest, and longest, cloudburst of the day, with the pounding rain lasting most of the hour long journey back to Groningen.
On arrival back in Groningen it had dried up again, so I had a quick dinner in the centre of town before wandering back to the hotel to pack.
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After putting my bags into a luggage locker at the airport I caught the train on into Amsterdam for the couple of hours I had left before my flight back to the UK.
I had a wander around the centre of the city, taking in Rembrandtplein and the area around Dam before heading over towards the station and catching the tram out to the recent developments on the reclaimed islands in the IJ.
I had a bit of a wander around IJburg before it was time to head back to the centraal station, catch the train back to Schiphol and my flight back to London.
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With barely an hour to make my connection at Euston it was touch and go and in the end I very nearly didn’t make it. Thankfully, the train had been late boarding due to delays earlier in the day, and consequently as four minutes late, which was just enough for me to make it.
The train proceeded to pick up even more delays due to a broken down train at Berkhamsted and then track problems around Crewe so by the time we finally pulled into Manchester we were 25 minutes late, not that I was complaining.
I walked the short distance from the station to the hotel, checked in and then turned in for the night.
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The train left Manchester pretty full and, thanks to the races at Chester, proceeded to become packed out as it travelled on. Thankfully, virtually the whole train exited at Chester so for the last 70 minutes or so the train was significantly more comfortable.
I walked from the station to the B&B, checked in and then headed out into Llandudno. First stop, the open-top sightseeing tour.
After taking in the full tour I went for a wander through the town, along the sea front and then finally out along the pier.
By now the wind had started to really pick up so I headed back to the hotel to warm up before heading out for dinner.
After an extended dinner, due to a very busy, and very slow, restaurant, I went for another wander along the sea front before heading back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.
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If I thought the previous evening had been windy it was nothing compared to the minor gale that was blowing on the top of the Orme. Thankfully it was a pretty warm wind, so it wasn’t that cold, which was good given I’d gone out in a T-shirt and shorts.
I had a long walk over the top of the Orme and then walked down to the Great Orme Mines to have a look around them before heading back up to the summit for a very late lunch.
I caught the tram back down into town and then picked up the last tour of the afternoon along Marine Drive which skirts around the edge of the Great Orme.
Back at the pier I headed out on one of the boat trips to take in the stunning views of Llandudno and the Great Orme, with the backdrop of the Snowdonia mountains behind the town.
Back on land I had a long wander through town before heading back to the hotel to change into something warmer for dinner.
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I had intended on taking the cable car up to the Great Orme, as it hadn’t been running the previous day due to the winds, but it looked as though the winds on the top were still pretty strong as everything was shut up.
Instead I had a bit of a wander in the area around the cable car station – Happy Valley, before heading back into town to pick up a bus.
As the day was looking pretty grim, I decided I’d just do some sightseeing from the comfort of a bus seat, so hopped on the bus in Caernarfon.
From Caernarfon I picked up the bus out to Llanberis at the foot of Snowdon, which was shrouded in a very heavy mist, and picked up the Snowdon Sherpa service there.
The Sherpa buses run throughout the Snowdonia national park, linking together key walking sites, but along the way offering stunning views of the park and the various peaks. The bus I picked up visited Pen-y-Pass and Capel Curig before dropping me off in Betwys-Y-Coed.
I had a bit of a wander around Betws-Y-Coed, but then it was time to pick up the bus back over to Llandudno to start making my way home.
If my outward journey had been fraught, I feared the same might be happening to this leg as the bus was a couple of minutes late arriving, and then after only about 5 minutes of its journey it pulled into the forecourt of a local petrol station to top the tank up.
In the end, I managed to get back to Llandudno grab my bags and get to the railway station just in time to make the train to Llandudno Junction, and the connection on to Birmingham.
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After a smooth journey across London I checked in to the hotel, and after a quick late evening snack in the airport retired to my room for a good night’s sleep
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After checking out of my room I walked over to the terminal building, dropped off my bags and then wandered through to departures.
An uneventful morning in the airport, and in the end only a slight delay pushing back due to some delays in loading the bags. By the time we arrived at Berlin Tegel airport we’d made most of that time back.
My bag was the third one off the belt, and on exiting the terminal building there was a bus waiting to whisk me into town, so by the time I reached the Hauptbahnhof in the centre of Berlin I had nearly two hours to kill before my train to Leipzig, for the connection to Dresden.
In the end it was nearly 2 ½ hours to kill as the train was almost thirty minutes late into Berlin. Given that I only had 19 minutes to make the connection at Leipzig this was a little concerning.
Thankfully, the Germans never like to do things by half and rather than just having on train running late they had most of their trains delayed, so whilst the delay to the train from Leipzig to Dresden wasn’t anywhere near as bad as the train from Berlin to Leipzig, it was just long enough to enable the connection.
Just over an hour later I emerged from the Hauptbahnhof in Dresden and walked the short distance to the hotel, checked in and then headed into town for a wander.
I had a long wander round the Altstadt, taking in lots of the sights, before stopping off for a late night Bratwurst and the tram back to the hotel
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First stop was Teatreplatz to pick up the hop-on-hop-off tour bus, to take in the sights of Dresden from the comfort of a moving vehicle with no windows, which on a day like this with the sun beating down, proved to be a wise move.
After a spot of late lunch in a beergarten overlooking the Elbe I headed out to the Großer Garten to have a wander around that, taking in the park railway that runs round much of the park.
I headed back into town in the early evening to grab some dinner before having another wander through the Altstadt and then picking up a late evening bus to take the tour of the city in the stunning sunset.
By the time I got back to Theatreplatz it was gone 10pm so I grabbed a late night ice-cream as desert and then headed back to the hotel to get some sleep.
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I caught their 11am round trip tour that sailed up the Elbe to the Blue Wonder bridge and then turned round and came back.
By the time I got back it was oppressively hot, so I decided, despite only having finished breakfast about two hours earlier, to have a leisurely light lunch in the beer garden on Theatreplatz and while away some time in the shade.
By about 2pm it had started to cool down a little, so I ventured out from the beer garden and headed over the road to the Zwinger to have a look around. Because it was Monday all of the museums were closed but the site is worth a wander around just for its architecture and the views from its roof top terrace. From the Zwinger I walked over Theatreplatz to the Catholic Cathedral and had a look around there, before heading across town to the slightly more famous, but theologically speaking less important, Frauenkirche, the symbol of a rebuild Dresden.
In the mid-afternoon sun not many people had bothered trying to climb up to the dome, which given it’s a lift most of the way, and all the passageways had air conditioners blasting out cooling breezes it was probably one of the more pleasant places to be. The views, with the sun shimmering on the Elbe were spectacular.
From the Frauenkirche I walked back to the Residenzschloß and was surprised to find out that all of their museums are open on a Monday (but closed on a Tuesday) so I spent much of the rest of the afternoon having a look around the various exhibitions, finishing off with a final climb of the afternoon to the viewing platform on the palace clock tower.
The views from here are some of the most stunning as you get good views over Theatreplatz and the Zwinger, as well as excellent views of the dome of the Frauenkirche (neither of which are possible from the Frauenkirche, the latter due to Physics, the former due to the tower of the castle getting in the way)
Feeling knackered, and with a serious case of museum feet I decided to rest my feet for a little while by making use of the second day of my hop-on-hop-off bus ticket and taking the evening tour around the city centre in the evening light.
After a quick bite to eat in the centre of town I headed back to my hotel room to take advantage of the stunning floor to ceiling windows, and it’s 14th floor position to watch the light fade over the city.
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Packed and checked-out I walked the short distance over to the main station and caught the lift up to the platform where my train was already waiting, and nearly full. I’d paid the extra €4 to reserve a seat, which I was now very thankful of.
At exactly 11:08 we pulled out of Dresden and headed for the Czech border.
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I stepped off of the air conditioned carriage into an absolutely baking Prague, the wall of heat hitting me being reminiscent of stepping off a plane in a hot country.
I walked what I had thought was the short distance to the hotel, but in the end turned out to be a 20 minute slog mostly uphill. I checked in, had a quick shower to cool down and then headed out into town.
First stop of the afternoon was the castle, for which I had discovered the direct tram stopped almost outside the hotel. I had a long wander around the castle grounds including the gardens, and then grabbed an early dinner in one of the restaurants near the cathedral.
I walked back through the gardens and picked up the tram down the hill to the start of the funicular railway up to the Hunger Wall and Petrin observation tower, I took in the views from the top of the tower before heading back down into town via a long walk over the Charles Bridge, long mostly because of the number of times I stopped to watch performers, including the very good violin quartet who were playing the hits of Abba and the Beatles…
From the Charles Bridge, and via a very nice gelato, I wandered my way over to the Old Town square.
By now the sun was starting to set and I decided, after seeing the price list, that I didn’t actually want a last drink of the night, so I wandered back via Wenceslas Square to my hotel.
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I’d clearly chosen the wrong company as the boat was at best only a quarter full and it became obvious why very quickly when it transpired there was no commentary on what you were seeing, it was literally just a cruise along the river and back.
Disappointed, I had a late lunch in a café that made up for the cruise by being both very nice and very cheap. I walked back up into town and caught the tram up to the castle to start actually going inside things.
I got to the ticket desk and the very nice lady there said it probably wasn’t a wise idea to buy a ticket now as it was only valid for the day, and everything would start to close in 30 minutes, which was kind of her as she could quite easily have sold the ticket and made a bit more money for the castle.
Instead I wandered down through the gardens and over a little footbridge to the park on the next hill across that has the metronome monument on it. I spent a bit of time taking in the views from the metronome and then wandered back through the park to the tram stop and caught a tram back down into town.
Given I’d saved money on the castle I decided to splash out and have dinner on the Old Town Square, which was nice but probably not worth the money, even with all the entertainment taking place on the square.
After a brief wander through town I wandered my way back to a tram stop and took the tram to near the hotel and then feeling lazy waited for the tram that actually went up the hill to the hotel.
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First stop of the morning was the Cathedral which was heaving with tourists, though most were just standing near the doors, deciding they didn’t really want to pay to go in, so once past the ticket inspectors the rest of the Cathedral itself was pretty quiet.
The same happened in the Basilica of St George, behind the Cathedral, which had been under renovation when I came back in 2001, so I had a good look around there, before visiting the Old Royal Palace.
From the Palace I wandered down to the last thing on my ticket, the Golden Lane. This was really packed with tourists, and in the cramped narrow passageways of some of the buildings the humidity and unpleasantness did momentarily make me wonder why I was doing this.
Having visited the Golden Lane I’d done all the sites that my “Short visit” ticket allowed me to do, and given the temperature I certainly wasn’t going to pay the extra to climb 400 odd stairs to the top of the Great South Tower of the Cathedral, so I wandered back down into town and down to the riverside near the Rudolfinum. Here there were a couple of different companies offering river cruises so I decided to take a risk and go on another one.
This one turned out to be much better than the previous days tour. Not only did it include a full commentary (albeit in about 10 languages, which lead to some confusion, and on very short descriptions such as the names of bridges quite a bit of repetition with only accents to identify which language was which), it also had a café on board so I was able to enjoy the tour whilst rapidly draining a litre bottle of water.
After the tour finished I went for a wander through the small Jewish quarter area of the old town taking in the sights there before heading back over to the Old Town Square to take the lift to the top of the Astronomical clock tower for the views.
Back down on ground level I stopped in a small bar in the square behind Our Lady of Tyn church for a pre-dinner drink.
I’d already decided on the restaurant for dinner as I’d seen the menu earlier in the day and it appeared to be quite good value (in the end less than half the price of the previous evenings meal), but it did mean going all the way back up to the castle and then a bit further up the hill.
After dinner I wandered back down through the castle, which was still surprisingly busy even quite late in the evening and walked down the steps to the metro station at the bottom of the hill, where with perfect timing the tram back to the hotel was arriving, so I hopped onto that and headed back to the hotel to pack ready to move on in the morning.
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The palace and gardens were built for Albrecht von Wallenstein who had a particular fascination with stalactites so one entire wall of the gardens is made up of fake stalactites.
After looking round the gardens there was just time to wander over to Wenceslas square and have a quick look round there before it was time to head back to the hotel, collect my belongings and head off to the station.
I got to the station with lots of time to spare, but because the train was starting in Prague it was already parked in the platform and ready to board, so rather than having to hang around on the platform I was able to sit in air-conditioned comfort for the 25 minutes or so before it departed for Brno.
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What they hadn’t explained was that the ‘different station’ was in fact a hastily constructed slab on concrete on the edge of a marshalling yard on the outskirts of town. Having clambered down with my heavy luggage from the train to basically trackside it was then a short walk over to the replacement buses, and a five minute ride into the centre of Brno.
I walked the short distance to the hotel, checked in, dropped my stuff off and headed out into town to take in the sights.
First stop was just opposite the hotel, the church of St James and underneath it’s ossuary. I then went for a long wander through the old town taking in the various sights and stopping in the main square for dinner before heading back to the hotel for an early night.
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First stop was the cathedral on the top of Petrov Hill. Quite a hike up in the weather, so I’m not quite certain why I then compounded it by climbing up the Cathedral towers to take in the views over the city, and to see the Cathedral treasury.
Having already been up one tower for the morning it made sense to go up another one, so I headed over to the town hall and climbed the 170 or so steps to the top of their tower, where there were not only good views but also an amazingly beautiful breeze.
After a quick pit stop for lunch I wandered down to the square by the theatre to pick up the tour bus that runs round the outskirts of the city taking in the views and some of the history of the town.
Back in the city centre I wandered over to the Capuchin church to take in their decidedly creepy crypt with the mummified remains of nobles and former monks.
Just around the corner is the entrance to the labyrinth of cellars underneath the vegetable market, into which you can go on regular tours. Not only are the tours very interesting, but on a day with the temperatures heading through the roof, the cold temperatures underground are blissful.
After a tour of the labyrinth I decided to seek somewhere a little cooler for the evening so I headed out of town to the Brno Reservoir which is where all the city’s residents had clearly already disappeared to. The reservoir was formed by damming the river and allowing it to flood a valley. During the summer months ferries shuttle up the lake and into the river canyon that forms the head of the reservoir, with a full round trip taking around 2 ½ hours.
I did the last round trip of the afternoon/evening and on the way back as we left the river canyon and entered the top end of the lake the whole area was bathed in the glow of a gloriously clear and hot summer’s sunset.
I caught the tram back into town and headed back over to the hotel where, after about 15 minutes of waving a rolled up magazine around, I dispatched the mosquito that was buzzing round the room and turned in for another sticky and disrupted night’s sleep.
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It was into that heat that I attempted the very steep climb up the hill to the castle. Normally it wouldn’t have been so strenuous, but in this heat it was really unpleasant.
Thankfully, the castle, keeping to the tradition of all castles, was a coolish place. Medieval Castles, horrible to live in during the winter, but on a day like today very pleasant. I spent a long time wandering around the various exhibitions, partly out of interest and also partly to keep myself out of the sun during the hottest part of the day.
The last part of the castle to look around was the casemates, which had at one point been turned into a pretty notorious prison. I had wondered why, as I walked around the castle, there had been so few visitors. Now I knew why. If the castle had been cool then the casemates were like nirvana. They were probably around 16 degrees, but when it’s 40 outside that temperature difference is amazing.
I, like many other of the visitors, spent a very long time wandering around the casemates. There wasn’t much to see, but I wasn’t giving up this chance of being nice and cold.
By the time I wandered back down into town it was late afternoon, but it was still at 40 degrees so I headed for one of the cafes on the main square and knocked back to large lemonades in quick succession (I had been thinking about beer, but I needed liquid and I didn’t want to get drunk as quickly as I would have done with beer.)
Sated, and probably staving off heat exhaustion, I went for a little wander around the area near the main square, before heading back to the hotel to have dinner in the pub and brewery that its located in.
With the light starting to fade, but the temperatures still in the high 30’s I went for a wander around town taking some night photos before heading back to the hotel to see if there was any point in sleeping.
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Finally giving up any chance of sleeping around 6am I had another long shower, and early breakfast and then headed out to have a wander around town for the last few hours before it was time to move on again.
Following on from my experience with the labyrinth on Saturday and the Casemates yesterday I headed over to the Mintmasters cellars underneath the new town hall.
Sure enough they were gloriously cool, so I spent rather longer than I would ever thought I would have done staring at 16th Century silver coins minted in Brno. I didn’t take any of the information in, I was more just wanting to drag out the coolness for as long as possible.
Eventually, once I’d been overtaken by people who had entered the museum nearly an hour after I had (and it’s a very small museum), I decided it was perhaps time to face the furnace outside.
I went for a little wander round to the main square and stopped for an early lunch in the shade and whiled away the last hour or so of my time in Brno watching people wander up to the fountain in the square and immerse their heads straight into it in an attempt to cool down.
I collected my luggage from the hotel and wandered over to Brno main station to pick up the rail replacement bus.
The organisation of the buses was pretty good, it’s just a shame the same couldn’t be said about the trains. Whilst the buses got us to the station in time, the train was already 25 minutes late, and with very little shelter it was a pretty warm 25 minute wait.
Eventually the train arrived and I clambered on board to discover my reserved seat was being used as a luggage store for a large family who had the rest of the compartment and made it pretty obvious they weren’t going to be happy having to move all their stuff. It was also apparent that they either didn’t like air-conditioning, or had switched it off. So rather than make a scene I took a seat in the almost empty compartment next door, where the two people already sitting in there had the air-conditioning set as beautifully cold.
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I walked the short distance from the station to the hotel and checked in. My first impression of a modern hotel was almost immediately called into question as I went to press the lift call button and the power failed across the hotel. Thankfully it was only for about 30 seconds, but it was with some trepidation that I got in the lift.
After dropping my stuff off I caught a trolley bus into town and then went for a long wander through the old town, eventually ending up at the New Bridge. I walked over the bridge to the pylon at the other end, on top of which is a viewing tower and restaurant.
I took the lift up the tower to take in the views of the old town, the communist housing development that is in stark contrast to the beauty of the old town, and the mighty Danube winding its way through the countryside. As it was a relatively clear evening it was possible to see all the way across into Hungary about 15 miles away, and across into Austria, about 3 miles away.
I descended back down to bridge level and crossed back over to the old town side and had a bit more of a wander, before stopping at one of the restaurants on the main street to have a very nice traditional Slovakian meal.
I wandered back through the old town and picked up a bus back to the hotel, where my air-conditioned room was now at arctic levels.
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After a quick breakfast I wandered over into town and caught the bus out along the Danube to Devin Castle to have a look around the ruins. I spent quite a bit longer there than I was expecting to, and I only just caught the bus back into town, avoiding an hours wait for the next one.
I stopped off in town for lunch before walking over to Michaels Gate, the only surviving gate of the old town fortifications. Today it houses a pretty boring exhibition on arms and armaments, but the view from the top of the tower over the old town is pretty good.
I then walked over to the main square to pick up the land-train tour of the old town and after completing that, briskly walked over to the square by the opera house to pick up the company’s other tour up to the castle.
After the tour had finished I stopped for a bit to eat before heading back up to the castle grounds to take in the views as the sun started to set over Bratislava.
I caught the bus back to the hotel and, with the air-con already set, another cold and gloriously comfortable night’s sleep.
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Before leaving the room I made a final check on the live train details on Czech railways website and the train was running to time as it left Breclav heading for Bratislava.
So it was quite surprising when I got to the station just a few minutes later to see that the train was now 10 minutes late, and over the course of the next half hour or so proceeded to get later and later. For every five minutes that went by the delay would increase by about five minutes, until it was standing at forty.
That’s where the increases stopped, and sure enough nearly forty minutes late the train pulled it with an ancient an wheezing engine attached to another engine that looked pretty broken, so I can only assume that was the cause of the delay.
Having arrive in Bratislava they promptly detached the two engines from the front and attached a new engine which then whisked us at speeds of up to 120 Km/h across the Slovakian countryside, with a still wheezing asthmatic air-conditioning system.
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Despite the new engine, and clearly a renewed vigour once it reached Hungary, we still managed to lose more time, and by the time we finally arrived in Budapest it was 45 minutes late. I walked the kilometre or so down from the station to the hotel and checked in before heading back out into the city.
First stop was up into the castle to take in the views of the city and have a wander around, pausing near the main palaces for a quick, and surprisingly given its location, relatively cheap dinner.
From the castle I caught the funicular railway back down to road level and the picked up the tram that runs alongside the bank of the Danube for a couple of stops before changing to the bus that goes up the Gellért Hill to the Citadella.
I arrived just as the sun was starting to go down, and was given a spectacular view of the city at sunset with the sky turning orange over the Danube and then slowly the city illuminating as floodlights came on.
I spent quite a bit of time on the top of the Citadella and it was staring to get quite dark as I picked my way back down the dimly lit paths back into the town centre.
I walked over the bridge back to Pest and picked the tram up along the riverside, aiming to catch it back to where it connected with the tram back to the hotel.
Unfortunately the line is still being repaired after the early June floods, so there was a bus for a part of the way, which meant I didn’t get quite such a good view of the river and the castle hill.
Back at the hotel I had a quick drink in the bar and then turned in for the night.
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I picked up the chairlift that climbs up into the hills and from the top station walked the short further distance up hill to the Elizabeth observation tower to take in the views over the city. After the hefty hike up the hill I had a bit of break in the café at the bottom of the tower before heading back down to the chairlift station.
I took the chairlift back down to the base station and picked up the bus for a couple of stops back to where it connects with the trams, where I changed onto the tram out to the far end of the Children’s Railway.
I travelled the length of the children's railway back to the end closer to the city centre and then changed onto the cog-wheel railway back down the hill to the centre of Buda.
I hopped on a tram round to Margaret Island and spent most of the afternoon wandering along the island, taking in the sights on the island including the religious ruins and the views from the water tower, before wandering over to Heroes Square.
A long wander around Heroes Square and the city park that it forms the entrance to and then it was time to head back into the centre of town to get some dinner.
After dinner I had a little wander along the riverside before heading back to the hotel.
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I finally left the labarynth when I actually realised I was shivering in just a T-shirt and shorts so I headed back up into the wall of heat that hit as soon as you left the caves and walked the short distance over to the Matthias church, the main religious building in the castle.
Having taken in the sights there I caught the bus back over the Danube to Pest and visited the main Church of Hungary the Basilica of St Stephen.
I had a long look around the church, before taking the lift up to the base of the dome to take in the views of the city, the castle and the distant hills.
Back down on ground level, and after a very nice lunch in the shadow of the basilica I caught the bus out to the Statue park on the outskirts of town to take in the collection of Soviet era statues dumped here in the early 1990’s as Hungary moved rapidly from its communist past.
I spent quite a bit of time at the Statue park, and by the time I got back to the city centre it was time for dinner, so I found a decent looking restaurant just back from the Danube and ate there.
After dinner I headed back to the hotel to start the process of packing, again.
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Originally I had booked a direct flight from Budapest to Berlin, but back in February this had been cancelled by Lufthansa and instead they had routed me via Munich.
This appeared to have caused some considerable problems with my booking in their systems as I couldn’t check-in on-line or at the kiosks in the terminal building. Eventually after much keyboard tapping, frowning and lots of apologies, the lady at the Lufthansa ticket desk finally managed to get my booking sorted and I was able to checkin through to Berlin.
However, my worries didn’t end there as the flight promptly gained at 25 minute delay, which when there was only ever an hour to make the connection at Munich, and I’d already seen from the Lufthansa app that the flight from Budapest would be connected to the terminal by bus rather than air-bridge did make me start to wonder if I’d actually make the connection.
Thankfully, it became increasingly obvious in the gate lounge that there were a large number of people who were all in exactly the same situation as me, to the extent that it was becoming clear that it would be far cheaper for Lufthansa to delay the Berlin flight at Munich, rather than deal with the sheer number of displaced passengers should we not make the connection.
Holding onto that thought, 10 minutes after we should have departed we started boarding…
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Having made it back to the terminal building by bus, and then up to the gate I only had to wait about 5 minutes before we started the boarding process all over again. Settled in my seat with the plane fully loaded with passengers the captain informed us that there would be a slight delay whilst a few final transiting bags were loaded, I did start to wonder in that meant my bag was at risk of not making the flight.
Landed in Berlin it was obvious that my bag has been one of the last few bags as it was the first up on the belt. With my luggage I headed out of the airport and into town to the hotel.
Having checked in I went into the centre of town and had a wander round, stopping to take in one of the Spree river cruises that ply up and down the river, this one leaving from round the back of the Berliner Dom.
After the cruise I wandered over to Alexanderplatz and with perfect timing sat down to dinner under shelter just as a big thunder storm went overhead.
After dinner I had a bit more of a wander, before picking up the 100 bus to do a spot of seated sightseeing back through the city centre to Zoo, before hopping on the U-Bahn back a couple of stops to my hotel and a good night’s sleep.
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I’ve been to Berlin on a number of occasions, and it’s a bit shaming to say that I hadn’t previously visited the spectacular collection of museums that the city has altogether in one location.
I intended on putting this right today, and started with a visit the Alte Nationalgalerie, home to the spectacular art collection that the East German state had put together. From there it was a short walk over to the Neues Museum to take in Egyptology there and then across to the Pergamon museum to see the stunning Pergamon alter and the other massive bits of archaeology that have been recreated in the centre of Berlin.
Then it was just round the block to take in the ancient Greek and Roman art and sculpture in the Altes Museum.
Having museumed myself out, I had about 90 minutes to kill, so as there was one waiting there, I hopped on an open-top bus tour through the city centre to take in the sights sat down.
A full loop later I hopped off the bus near Checkpoint Charlie and caught the U-Bahn back to the hotel to collect my luggage and start the journey back home.
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I walked through the town to the pub that was to be my hotel for the weekend, and, after checking in, I went for a little wander around the town.
I then headed back to the hotel and had an evening sampling some of the many offerings from the freeholders range.
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I had a very interesting tour and a good sample of several of their products, including the particularly pleasant, but lethally strong 1698 brew.
Having taken in the main industry in town today, I headed out to the back of town and the site of one of the former big employers, the gunpowder works.
At one point Faversham was one of the most important gunpowder producing locations in the country, with the works being built up over centuries. In fact it was only the location of the works, in the South East of England with the clouds of war starting to build in the early 1930’s that lead to their eventual closure and relocation to the coast of Ayrshire.
Today the works have been turned into a country park with several waymarked walks around the site, taking in many of the ruins of buildings that were important in the manufacture of gunpowder.
Having visited the works I walked back into town and then diverted slightly to the former gunpowder mill just on the edge of the town centre.
With Faversham’s industrial past and present taken in I wandered over to the station and caught the train one stop down the line to the seaside resort of Whistable, where I spent the late afternoon having a wander around.
I caught a mid-evening train back to Faversham and walked back over to the pub for dinner and another sample of their wonderful range of beer, before retiring to bed.
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At Herne Bay I walked over to taxi office and picked up a cab to take me the 5 miles or so by road out to the ruins at Reculver.
After having a long wander around the ruins I then walked the 4 miles or so back along the very pleasant cliff-top walk into Herne Bay.
Having made it back into Herne Bay I had a long wander round the town centre, and stopped for a late lunch, before the weather started to deteriorate.
Given it was already mid-afternoon I decided that the weather was my queue so I headed back to the station, caught the train back to Faversham, wandered through town to the hotel to pick up my luggage and then start my journey home.
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Having left it until less than an hour before departure to head down to the airport I only had a very short time to wait before we were called to the gate.
After a comfortable flight, on a pretty small plane, we touched down in Dundee on time. A quick taxi ride to the centre and having dropped my luggage off at the hotel I went for a long wander around the city.
Having checked into the hotel I then wandered across the car-park to the Discovery Point Centre and the RRS Discovery ship to have a look around them.
Then, following the handily produced guide to the heritage of Dundee, I went on a walk around the key architectural sights in the city centre, taking regular stops at a number of café’s round the route as I dived for cover from the next heavy downpour.
Eventually I headed back to the hotel before having to head back out to the nearby supermarket as the restaurant wasn’t able to serve any food.
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Having completed one of the longest breakfasts ever I headed out from the hotel and over to the station to catch the train up the line to Arbroath.
First stop in the town was the ruins of the Abbey, and after a long walk around them, I wandered down to the harbour side to have a look around, albeit with a lot obscured by a heavy mist.
I popped into one of the local fish shops to try the local delicacy, Arbroath Smokies, before heading back to the station to catch the train back through Dundee, across the Tay Bridge and on to the town of Leuchars for the connecting bus to St Andrews.
I picked up the open-top sightseeing tour and did a complete circuit of the town before heading down to the castle to have a look around and then over to the Cathedral.
After a long wander around the town and a quick pit-stop in a café for a very late lunch, I wandered back to the bus station to catch the bus back to Leuchars and change onto the train back to Dundee.
Tonight, there was actually service in the restaurant attached to the hotel so I was able to have a pleasant dinner (with significantly speedier service than breakfast) and then headed back up to my room for a good night’s sleep
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After a breakfast conducted at near light speed compared to the previous morning, I checked out of the hotel and headed out into town to catch the bus a short distance along the coast to the castle at Broughty Ferry.
I had a long look around the castle and a bit of a wander around the harbour area before I headed back into town and over to the Verdant Jute Works, formerly one of the city’s many Jute manufacturing plants, all of which have closed down, and now a museum to the history of the Jute Industry in the city.
It was a very interesting museum with lots to see, and some enthusiastic demonstrations of the equipment that was utilised in the works when it was in full manufacturing.
By the time I left the works there was just time for a quick, very late lunch, before I headed back to the hotel to collect my stuff.
The morning’s fog had now all disappeared to be replaced by a gloriously sunny afternoon, and the flight was still scheduled to be taking place, with departure just 90 minutes away. However, because Dundee is such a small airport the last check-in time was just 15 minutes before departure, so I took advantage of the extra time to walk to the airport along the very pleasant riverside walk that leads under the stunning Tay Bridge.
At any other airport I would probably not have made the flight as I wandered up to the check-in desk just 30 minutes before departure time, but here it turned out I was one of the earlier passengers, as I discovered when I walked through security into an almost deserted gate room.
A short while later the other 20 or so passengers for the flight drifted through into the gate lounge, just before the flight was opened for boarding.
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A slightly bumpy flight later we arrived into Genoa and I caught the bus to one of the main stations in town, and then a local bus back out to the hotel. I checked in and headed back out into the city.
I wandered down to the harbour side to pick up the open-top sightseeing tour and, after quite a long wait for the bus, went on two full circuits to take in all the sights.
Back in the city centre I had a long wander through many of the tiny lanes and then took a funicular up to the top of one of the hills for the views back down on the city centre.
Back down to sea level and I finished off with a very nice dinner in a restaurant near the harbour before wending my way back to the hotel
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Down to the Piazza Principa station and onto the train out to La Spezia, as my gateway to the Cinque Terre National park. The Park, made up of five almost inaccessible (apart from the railway line and the goat path that connects them) towns perched on rocks and cliffs on the coast.
First stop was the furthest of the five – Riomaggiore. I had intended on walking the path between a couple of the towns, with the short kilometre or so between Riomaggiore and Manarola being the obvious starting point. However, due to recent landslips both that path, and the next one linking Manarola to Corniglia were closed, so after a look around town I headed back to the station to catch the train back up the line.
The already busy trains weren’t being helped by the number of people who, like me, were having to use the train rather than walk between towns, so it was a tight squeeze, and given the weight of numbers, I decided trying to get out at Manarola wasn’t an option so I stayed on until half the train got off at Corniglia.
Corniglia is the only one of the five towns not directly on the coast, being some 90m up in the cliffs. To reach the town it’s a back breaking almost 360 step climb up the cliff side, or, if like me you’ve brought a Cinque Terre card, 5 minutes on the very convenient electric bus that rattles up the hillside like a demented donkey.
I stopped for a quick lunch in a small trattoria in the main square before having a wander around the town, and then, fortified by a gelato, headed over to the path for the 4KM walk between Corniglia and Vernazza. The signs at the train head said the estimated walking time was 90 minutes to two hours, which given the distance covered indicated quite a bit of climbing.
95 minutes later, and absolutely knackered I reached the end of the path in Vernazza having climbed up to a peak of around 200m above sea level, and then the really knackering part, in the last kilometre or so descended all the way back down to sea level, over some very rocky ground, giant steps and in places, pretty treacherous bits of path.
I had a long wander around Vernazza before deciding that as the 3KM walk to Monterosso was signposted as taking 2 hours+ that included too much climbing and I caught the train instead. I had a wander around the town, before heading down to the harbour at catching the boat back down the coast part Vernazza and Corniglia to Manarola to have a look around the final one of the five towns.
Exhausted, and with the sun starting to fade I headed back to the station to catch the train, bizzarely, further south to La Spezia. There I picked up an InterCity train which overtook the slow stopping train I had let leave without me at Manarola about 30 minutes before it arrived into Genova.
By the time I got back to Genova it was late, the weather had taken a turn for the worse, and I found that the Metro stops running at 20:30, along with most bus routes. To make matters worse as all the metro stations and tabacchi are closed there is nowhere to purchase transport tickets so I had to trudge the 30 minutes back to the hotel in the pouring rain, rapidly going off Genoa as a holiday destination.
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With breakfast consumed and the weather improved to just grey and overcast with a light drizzle, I headed out of the hotel down into town to firstly purchase a couple of transport tickets and then to give Genoa an opportunity to try and win-back some affection.
Things didn’t start well, as my first stop of the morning, the Cathedral, was closed as they were only showing the vast numbers of cruise ship passengers around. However, a short distance away is the former city gate of Porta Soprana and they were very happy to welcome tourists so I had a look around the gate, taking in the views, and then wandered a few yards down the hill to the house that, perhaps the most famous son of the city, Christopher Columbus, was born in.
I wandered back through the lanes of the city down to the harbour side and had a look around the galleon Neptune, originally used as the set of Roman Polanski’s film Pirates and today a pretty good mock-up of a galleon ship. As I was down in the harbour I took advantage of the slight breeze, which was alleviating the oppressive humidity across the city, to have a bit to eat.
I headed back up through the centre of town, stopping off at the Basilica church of Santissima Annunziata del Vastato to have a look round there, before popping a little further up the street to the museum in the Palazzo Reale.
I then took another one of the many elevators that are dotted round the city up to a viewpoint to take in the sights with the sun just making occasional appearances, before having a wander over to an altogether different type of lift.
Leaving from near the Castello D’Albertas it looks to all intense and purpose like a standard lift, which is why I thought it a little strange that there was a 6 minute wait for the next lift, could it be that slow? Having boarded the lift everything appeared normal as we descended down to the base of the lift shaft, which is where things start getting a little strange. The lift frame stopped but the body of the lift was then slowly moved forward onto rails before then continuing for several hundred meters down a small railway line pulled like a cable car or funicular. It was all very odd.
By the time I finally exited the lift I was actually right by the Piazza Principa railway station, so I picked up the bus back to the hotel to freshen up before heading out for a bite to eat in town.
After another good meal near the harbour side, I managed to catch one of the few buses still running back to near the hotel and then it was just a quick hike up a massive flight of steps to the road the hotel was on and a well-deserved rest.
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After a stop-start breakfast, and having given it a good couple of hours for the weather to improve to a mild drizzle, I headed out of the hotel and up into the hills above the Principa station to the museum of the cultures of the world in the Castello D’Alberti’s, which was also hosting another (or possibly the same) wedding.
Having looked around the castle I took the crazy Balbi lift train back down to the station and then walked over to the Granarolo cog wheel railway. I took the train all the way to the top to take in the stunning views over the city, which was helped by the skies clearing for the 20 or so minutes I was up at the top of the hill. Just as the return train was arriving the clouds suddenly filled with cloud again and as I boarded another heavy, but brief, downpour ensued.
As the bottom station was right by the Pallazzo dei Principe I decided to have a look around that, and taking advantage of another brief break in the weather headed into the centre of town to take in the other great palaces of the city, now an extensive art museum – Pallazzo Tursi, Rosso and Bianco
Exhausted from Art, and with the skies clearing again I headed over to the Righi funicular to ascend another hill to take in the views of the city from there, again arriving at the summit for a few minutes with good weather before the clouds once again rolled in and started to drizzle.
Back down in the town centre I wandered over to the main square and had a look around the Ducal palace, including going up the Torre Grimaldina to take in the views of both the city and the Ducal prison cells.
By now the weather had deteriorated into prolonged heavy rain, with lightning streaking across the sky and it clearly wasn’t going to get much better, so I dashed across the road to the bus stop to pick up the bus back to the hotel with the decision already made in my mind that I was going to eat in the hotel restaurant.
It was only a two minute walk from the bus stop to the hotel, and quite a bit of that was under cover, but even then I was pretty well soaked by the time I got back to the hotel, so I had a lovely warm shower, a change of clothes and then down to the restaurant for a surprisingly good dinner.
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I had a couple of hours to kill before I had to head to the airport, so I caught a bus into town and finally, after several attempts during the weekend, got to visit the Cathedral.
Having seen round the Cathedral I had a bit of a wander around the city centre before it was time to head back to the hotel and collect my luggage. I caught the bus back towards the centre of town, to the main bus station to pick up the airport bus.
After 40 minutes wait, and an increasing number of bemused looking tourists, it finally became clear that there wasn’t going to be an airport bus, it would appear that the drivers were on strike over something, so instead with a couple of other tourists I jumped in a cab out to the airport, arriving still with plenty of time before my flight.
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Over the course of the next hour or so the delay increased and decreased at regular intervals, eventually settling on a delay of about 50 minutes.
Of course, to the delay you then have to add on the 20 minute taxi at the Amsterdam end as the plane drives the last 20 miles or so to the terminal building, another 20 minutes to walk the final 2KM from the gate to baggage reclaim and then the inevitable 25 minute delay to the half-hourly train to Den Haag.
By the time I finally made it to the hotel it was already gone 11 and, knackered from travelling, I turned straight in for the night.
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Having taken in the stunning views of the sand dunes at the coast I headed back down the tower and caught a tram out to the end of the line at Duindorp and then walked along the massive sandy beach back towards the harbour at Scheveningen. Past the harbour I continued walking into the centre of Scheveningen to have a look around before catching the bus round to the dunes further down the coast to Kijkduin.
I then took the bus back into the centre of town and had a long wander around The Hague itself, including taking in the Dutch Houses of Parliament.
After stopping for a very, very late lunch I wandered over to the stunning Peace Palace, now home of the International Court of Justice.
From there I hopped onto a tram and made it to Scheveningen just in time to catch a stunning sunset over the beach and harbour.
Having had a wander along the seafront at sunset I hopped back on a tram into town and back to the hotel for dinner and then bed.
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After checking out and dropping my bags in the left luggage lockers at the station I headed out to the north of the city centre to Madurodam.
I spent several hours looking round the site, taking in the whole of the Netherlands in miniature.
I then wandered back into town and had a long walk around the sites of the city centre, before it was time to head back over to the station, and with the light starting to fade, grab my luggage and head back to Schiphol.
I had an early flight the following morning, and rather than having to get up at the crack of dawn and get to the airport from Den Haag, I’d decided to stay at an airport hotel. Even with the strong wind whipping round the courtesy bus bus-stop I didn’t realise quite how a significant decision that was going to be.
The bus dropped me off at the hotel and after checking in and dropping my stuff off, I had dinner in the hotel restaurant and then headed back for an early nights’ sleep.
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The bus, struggling at times against cross winds, headed back to the airport and there I found quite how good idea it had been to stay at the airport overnight as the winds had brought the Dutch rail system to a grinding halt, with no trains running through the airport. If I’d stayed in Den Haag, I would have been stranded.
Instead, 2 hours later I found myself sitting on a plane that was rocking heavily on the tarmac with every gust of wind. After a 40 minute wait for air traffic to spot a gap in the winds we pushed back from the gate, pretty much straight onto the runway, and headed off towards Gatwick.
With the winds still battering Southern England it was a very bumpy landing into Gatwick, but in the end only about an hour behind schedule, and for once my bag was already going round on the carousel when I got to baggage reclaim, which could only mean one thing – the trains would be in a horrible state.
45 minutes later I finally pulled out of Gatwick on a surprisingly empty train heading back towards Croydon and work.
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Breakfast completed and hotel checked out from I wandered over to St Peter’s Square and caught the tram round to Piccadilly station and wandered up to the station to wait for my train.
Given my experience earlier in the year with the absolutely packed Llandudno train I had decided to take the slower train that ran round via Stockport and the Cheshire countryside rather than the direct route. It took nearly 90 minutes, and on a pretty tired train, but at least it wasn’t heaving.
I walked the short distance from the station to my hotel, checked in and then headed out into town for a long wander round.
After a while I found myself on the banks of the Dee, just as a boat was about to do a short sightseeing cruise, so I hopped on board and took in the views from the river.
Back in the town centre I had a wander around the Roman Garden and the Amphitheatre before the light finally faded for the day.
I had a wander back through town; stopping for dinner in a city centre hotel before heading back to the hotel and another good night’s sleep
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As the tour finished by the Cathedral I had a long look round that before grabbing a bite to eat.
After lunch I headed up onto the city walls and walked the whole way round the 2 or so mile circuit of the walls.
By the time I’d it was starting to get dark so I stopped off to have a quick look round the St John the Baptist church, the original Cathedral of the city, before taking in some more of the city centre and the walls at night.
I wandered back to the hotel for dinner and then bed.
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I spent the whole of the morning looking round the National Waterways Museum in Ellesmere Port, including taking in the short cruise along the Shropshire Union Canal on board a converted canal barge.
I caught the train back from Ellesmere Port to Chester and wandered across town to the stunning Grosvenor Museum.
By the time I had exhausted the museum there was just time to grab a very late lunch/extended coffee break before heading back to the hotel to collect my luggage and then head back to the station for the train back to London.
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The train decided to crawl part of the way, cranking up the stress just that little bit further, but in the end there was plenty of time as despite the airport being very busy nobody appeared to actually be flying as both security and the departures lounge were deserted.
I had a quick bite to eat in the Yo! Sushi before wandering over to the gate and onto a flight that looked, thanks to the very large school party, like it was going to be packed.
Ready to push back almost 10 minutes early we ended up being delayed as the air-bridge linking us to the terminal decided it didn’t want to co-operate and refused to detach from the plane. Eventually engineers from the airport managed to manually crank it far enough back that the plane was able to be manoeuvred out.
An uneventful flight later we landed at Nice Airport and with a stand close to the runway, a short walk through the airport and very quick baggage delivery I managed to make the shuttle bus to town that I was convinced was uncatchable.
I walked the short distance through town to the hotel, checked in and headed to bed.
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I had a long walk through the city centre, taking in the very impressive gardens that make the centre of the city very pedestrian friendly (but by the looks of it a nightmare for drivers). I then turned into the Old Town area, with its narrow alleyways and lanes, finally stumbling upon the Cathedral more by accident than plan.
Having looked around that I continued my wander through the old town. I eventually reached the southern end of the old town and the stunning view of the coast. With the sun shining down from a cloudless sky it looked almost tempting, if it wasn’t for the fact that it was mid-December.
From the coast I headed over to the lift up to the castle area and spent a very long time wandering around the former fortifications, taking in the stunning views along the Côte D’Azur and basking in the glorious weather.
I stopped for a light lunch in a restaurant at the top of the site with views over to the Ligurian Alps before wandering round to a café for a post lunch coffee with views along the beach and the Promenade des Anglais.
I took the more physical descent back down to sea-level and then wandered along the Promenade des Anglais taking in the views, before picking up the land-train that runs round the city centre taking in the key sights (before heading, inevitably straight back up to the castle and the same place I’d had lunch a couple of hours earlier).
Back on the sea-front I wandered back to the Place Masséna to have a look around the Christmas market that was situated there. It didn’t quite feel right, it looked like a Christmas market, it smelt like a Christmas market, but it was about 15 degrees too warm to be a proper Christmas market.
Just back from the market I went for a quick ride on the Ferris Wheel, taking in the last of the dying light of day before heading back to the hotel to freshen up before going out for dinner.
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I did a full circuit taking in the stunning views from the cliffs above the harbour, returning back to the starting point just in time to pick up the next bus back up the hill to Cimiez
The original location of the Roman city that was founded here there is lots to see, with some stunning remains and I spent much of the day looking round the Roman ruins, as well as the excellent museum to the French painter Matisse, who died in Nice.
I caught the bus back down into the city centre and by now it was already mid-afternoon, so there was just time for a quick cup of coffee and a bit to eat before heading back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and then down to the bus stop and off to the airport.
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Just over two hours later we pulled into Brussels and I made the treck across the station to the platform for the train to Ghent, which, just as it was due, did the usual Belgium trick of getting a creeping delay of a few minutes that would go forward another minute every couple of minutes, so by the time it finally pulled into the station what had been “on time” two minutes before it was due was ten minutes late.
Pulling into the building site that is Gent-Sint-Pieters station half an hour later I was unaware that the local tram and bus drivers had just downed tachographs and taken wild-cat strike action, so I happily wandered over, purchased a ticket and waited in the freezing wind on the tram platform with a number of other commuters for the best part of 30 minutes before it became clear that there weren’t going to be any trams.
I managed to warm back up by making the 25 minute, and very dull, trudge into the city centre dragging my, thankfully relatively light, luggage behind me.
Having checked in I headed back out for a quick wander around the centre of town, taking a few photos, before grabbing a bite to eat in one of the stalls of the Christmas market and then heading back to the hotel for a drink before turning in for the night.
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I eventually found myself at the Belfort so had a look around the museum located in its tower, and the views over the city from the platforms two thirds of the way up the tower. From the Belfort I popped into the neighbouring St Nicholas church before heading back to the riverside to pick up an early afternoon river cruise.
River cruise completed I wandered back through the little lanes of the city centre to the Cathedral and had a look around that before spending a little while wandering through the stalls of the Christmas Markets picking up a few final gifts for family.
I stopped for a light bite of a braatworst and gluhwein at one of the stalls almost opposite the entrance to my hotel. This proved to be useful as not only was it bitterly cold and windy, as I was finishing it started to rain so I headed back into the hotel to warm up, just as a downpour really got underway.
The downpour continued for much of the evening, so I decided to have a light dinner in the hotel bar, before having an early night
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Breakfast completed I headed out to the Gravensteen, the castle in the centre of the city, to have a look around there, and as the ticket was also valid at the St Peters Abbey, I caught the tram out to there and also had a look around.
By the time I left the Abbey it was late afternoon, and the weather had taken a distinct turn for the worse. I made a dash for the bus shelter and only got partly soaked in the process.
I got back to the hotel and dried off, waiting for the rain to pass, which it eventually did, before heading back out into town to have a wander through the Christmas market and then dinner.
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Instead, after having had a morning coffee overlooking a deserted boat cruise landing stage I headed back to the hotel, picked up my bags and headed back into Brussels.
The other consideration as I sat on the train heading back to the capital was the massive storm that was heading straight for the Low Countries. It was already smashing into Southern England and was causing major travel disruption, so it made more sense to be close to the Eurostar terminal, just in case they suddenly decided to start cancelling services.
Having arrived in Brussels I dropped my bags in the left luggage office and caught the tram out to Heysal to have a look around Mini-Europe. When I’d last visited in 2004 it was shortly before the major EU expansion and so much of the site was under construction as they attempted to put in buildings for the 10 new member states.
Since then another three countries had joined, including Croatia just a few months before so I went to have a look around a slightly less mini Mini-Europe.
After taking in the avidly pro-EU propaganda of the site I caught a tram back into the city centre to have a look around, including visiting the Christmas Market by the Grand Place before it was time to head back to the Eurostar terminal and check-in.
Despite the weather savaging train services across the South East of England the Eurostar service ran perfectly to time throughout, so I arrived in St Pancras in time to catch a train towards home that should have arrived nearly an hour earlier.
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Still, dodging the regular spectacular showers I headed into town to pick up the High Speed train down to Kent.
I arrived in Margate with an overcast, but dry sky and so wandered the short distance from the station to the hotel, checked in and then headed back out.
In the dying light of day the beach and sea were calm as I wandered along the wide sands of the bay.
However, almost as soon as I got over to the opposite side of the bay, by the harbour, I turned back to see a very menacing sky. I hurried up to the Turner Contemporary museum and made it inside the building with just a couple of moments to spare before the skies opened and a massive downpour fell over the town.
It was difficult to tell if the skies ever lightened, as by the time the rain stopped it was already dark. Thankfully, I’d sat out that particular arm of the latest storm in the very nice café of the gallery, and after finishing my pot of tea I wandered back through the town towards the hotel.
I did have a look for somewhere to eat, but in the end settled on the restaurant attached to the hotel.
Having finished dinner I decided I would pop back out to see Margate at night, only to have that decision immediately reversed when I looked out the window of my room to see another massive downpour emptying, this one showing no immediate sign of slowing, so I headed back to the bar with a book and settled into the warm for the rest of the evening, along with many other of my fellow Premier Inn guests.
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I wandered through some of the back streets and eventually found myself at the spectacular shell grotto which I had a long look around, before heading back towards the centre of town, stopping off at the Tudor House on the way.
A walk through the Old Town, with a quick stop for a pint of a very nice local brew in a specialist Ale and Cider pub, and I found myself by the bus stop for The Loop bus service which links the seaside towns of Margate, Broadstairs and Ramsgate together.
With the skies indicating another heavy shower was on its way I decided to hop on board and travel a bit further round the coast.
In the time it took to get to the next major seaside town, Broadstairs, the spectacular downpour came and went, so by the time I arrive there it was back to being very windy, but dry.
I had a bit of a wander along the cliffs above the beautiful bay that the town sits on, before heading to the nearby Royal Albion hotel for a very late lunch, during which I sat out another downpour.
Sated, I headed back to the bus stop and continued on into Ramsgate, arriving just as the light of the day was fading. I had a wander round for a bit, but with spits of rain starting to fall I decided it would probably be wise to head back to the bus, making it back to the shelter of the bus stop just a few moments before both the bus, and the next downpour arrived.
This downpour lasted almost the entire way back into Margate, at times the water was running down the windows so fast it looked like we were in a car wash.
Back in Margate and with just a brief rest bite in the bad weather I decided not to risk it and instead headed back to the hotel to again have dinner there.
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I walked across the bay again, this time arriving at the Turner Contemporary in the dry to have a proper look around the gallery.
From the Turner I wandered back through town and caught the bus out to the Hornby visitors centre to have a look around there.
After looking round the Hornby centre it was time to head back into Margate.
From the morning’s low tide and glorious sun it was now much easier to believe that there was another storm on the way. The tide was right in, and starting to churn slightly, the sky was already overcast and there was the odd spot of rain in the air, so it felt like as good a time as any to head back to the hotel, pick up my bags and then head back to the station for the train home, back through the teeth of another storm.
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Having settled down into my seat I was able to relax as the train meandered its way west across England, turning off of the main line at Swindon to travel along the stunning Golden Valley to Stroud and beyond towards Gloucester.
I walked the 10 minutes or so from the station out to the hotel and dropped my stuff off, before heading back out and wandering into town, except I hadn’t realised quite how far out of town the railway station actually was (and the hotel was further still). By the time I reached the town centre it was already close to dusk.
I had a wander around the town centre and stopped for a bite to eat before deciding that it would make much more sense to catch the bus back to the station.
I walked back from the station, only to find that the bus also stopped just around the corner from the hotel as I saw it emerge from a side street on it’s return leg.
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I walked the short distance to the bus station to catch the bus out to Cirencester, only to find out that the buses actually left from the next street across, so I wandered over there and picked it up with a couple of minutes to spare.
A very pretty ride through parts of the Cotswolds, if slightly slow at times as the aging bus struggled to climb the hills, eventually dropped me off in the centre of Cirencester.
I had a long wander around the town, including taking in the park formed from part of the Bathurst estate, before heading over to the town museum to have a look around there. Inspired by the museum I walked out to the back of town to have a look round the remains of the Amphitheatre before heading back into the town centre.
After a brief stop for a late lunch I wandered over to the parish church, one of the largest in the UK, to have a look around, before having a walk in the Abbey Gardens, taking in the only other remaining bit of Roman ruins in the town, a small part of the town walls.
I had a bit more of a wander around town, before the skies started to fill ominously with very dark clouds. I didn’t quite make it to a café in time and got quite wet. I thought it would be a relatively short shower so I went to sit it out with a coffee.
In the end, two large coffee’s later and with the light of the day starting to fade the rain finally reduced to a mere drizzle, I made a dash for it to the bus stop so that I could get the penultimate bus of the day back to Cheltenham.
The two large coffees, the poor state of the road and the even poorer state of the buses suspension made for an uncomfortable journey, and I was quite glad to find that the shopping centre next to the bus stop was still open so that I could make use of their facilities on arrival.
I had a bit more of a walk around Cheltenham town centre, mostly looking for somewhere to get a light snack before finally wandering back to the bus stop and catching the bus back to the hotel and an early night.
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First stop of the morning was straight through the town centre and out the other side again to the Pittville Park and Pump Room. The Pump room was where those coming to Cheltenham to take the waters would have come to take the cure. I had a look around the pump room, but declined the offer to sample the waters.
I walked back to town through the pretty Pittville park and then continued on through the town centre along the Promenade and the beautiful examples of Georgian Architecture and on into Montpellier.
I had a long wander around Montpellier stopping for a quite long lunch in one of the many café’s before walking over to the town’s museum.
There was lots to see in the museum and gallery, with some of the rooms being so crowded with artefacts that it’s almost certain I missed stuff on the look round.
By the time I had exhausted the museum and gallery it was late afternoon and after a quick stop in a café for a coffee it was time to catch the bus back to the hotel to collect my luggage and head home.
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With a degree of coordination not normally found in British transport the train was pulling into the platform as I arrived, and at Clapham the same was repeated. By the time I emerged from Feltham station straight onto a 285 bus that had just pulled up my concerns were really up – just how delayed or cancelled was my flight going to be as transport karma had to be re-established.
In the end it was the same underlying theme from the previous few weeks that helped restore the karma, the highly active jet stream that was pushing storm after storm into the UK was also making for some particularly turbulent and unpleasant flying conditions. A flight that on a good day was doable in just about two hours took three, and they were three pretty bumpy ones.
We landed, very heavily, into the teeth of another hefty shower in Lisbon, and the end was still passing through as I trudged the 10 minutes or so uphill from Sete Rios station to my hotel for the night.
The original plan was to drop my stuff off and then head into the centre of Lisbon to do some late night sightseeing. Instead I grabbed my kindle, my wallet and headed for the bar.
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Having gorged myself I went back up to my room, packed and then headed down to Santa Apolónia station to catch the high-speed train up to Coimbra.
The train passed through the Portuguese countryside, vast swathes of which were flooded, but this didn’t appear to effect the service (unlike the UK) with the train pulling into Coimbra-B station 5 minutes early. Consequently I had an even longer than planned wait at Coimbra-B for the train down the track to Coimbra-A station in the centre of town.
Having walked from the station and checked into my hotel I headed out into town to do some exploring.
I had a long wander through the old town including taking in parts of the old city walls as well as both the Old (12th Century) and New (16th Century) cathedrals and the university district.
Having avoided a couple of sharp showers through diving into cathedrals or random university buildings at fortuitous moments I headed back down into the newer part of the city and across the river to have a wander along the flooded river bank, before taking quite a few photos of the historic city centre from the pedestrian bridge that links the two banks of the city.
I headed back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out for a very pleasant dinner in town and a quick stroll along the riverside to take some night shots of the city before heading back to my bed.
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I headed out of the hotel and climbed up through the narrow lanes of the old town up to the university district and visited the stunning Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro stopping on its terrace café for lunch looking out over the dome of the old cathedral and the river.
From there it was a wander through the university district and down to the botanical gardens to have a look around them
From the botanical gardens I wandered back via the Praça da República and the overly engineered fountain in the Jardim da Manga to the centre of town for a late afternoon coffee before crossing the bridge to visit the ruins of the Old Santa-Clara monastery.
A long look around the site, made all the more incredible by the video of how they had rescued the site, which had started to be inundated by the river not long after it was built and had to be abandoned by the 17th century, by pumping out all the water. As you wandered round the lower parts of the church the tidelines were way above your head on the pillars.
I crossed back over the river and stopped for dinner in one of the restaurants that overlook the river, which had noticeably dropped from the previous day and was almost back within its banks.
After dinner I had a bit of a wander through the park before heading back to the hotel.
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The timing of the trains from Coimbra back to Coimbra-B were such that I either had to wait for 45 minutes at the junction, or trudge the 2Km back to Coimbra-B through a heavy shower. I decided to have the long wait.
A couple of hours later, and with the rain still lashing down I arrived back at Lisbon Santa Apolónia station and put my bag in a luggage locker for a little while.
Emerging from the station into the very end of the latest shower I wandered through to the centre of the city and was just going to have a wander around, but another shower made my mind up that I’d do a spot of sightseeing from a tram.
Taking advantage of a serious bunching problem with the trams up into the cathedral and castle district I hopped on an almost empty tram at the rear of the queue, hopping off at the Portas del Sol to take some photos in another gap in the showers.
I continued on back round into the centre of the city at which point it was time to head back to the station, pick up my luggage and wend my way back out to the airport and finish the journey home.
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After dropping my bags off I headed out of the hotel and wandered down towards the historic docks, not realising quite how far they were from the hotel, coupled with the lack of any lunch. By the time I got to Gunwharf Quays shopping centre, just before the dockyards I was famished so I grabbed a late and very naught fast-food lunch, before heading on towards the historic docks.
However, my attention was diverted by the sight of the Spinnaker tower, now the most famous sight on Portsmouth’s skyline. I headed in and took the lift up to the viewing towers. I spent quite a bit of time taking in the views and by the time I’d gotten back down to ground level and walked the final leg on to the historic dockyards they were already heading towards last admissions time.
Thankfully I’d purchased joint ticket at the Spinnaker tower which, once I’d swapped the voucher they had given me over, gave me a year’s access to the site, so I wasn’t too worried about actually getting into any of the museums of boats, instead I just had a long wander around the site.
After looking round the dockyard I walked the short distance back to Portsmouth Harbour station, and being incredibly lazy, caught the train one stop, three minutes, back up the line to Southsea station and back to my hotel to freshen up before heading back out to find dinner.
Portsmouth on a Friday night in term time (for most of the centre of Portsmouth appeared to be university buildings) is what might be described as “bustling”. Consequently I decided to eat quickly and head back to the relative safety of my hotel room from where I could watch Friday night in Pompy play out from my 4th floor window.
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I had a long wander along the prom taking in the stunning views across the Solent to the Isle of Wight and watching the incredible amount of traffic shuttling backwards and forwards between the island and the mainland (Car ferries, catamarans and hovercraft all shuttling backwards and forwards)
A short walk along the prom took me to the closed Southsea Castle, but I was able to have a quick peer in past the main entrance gateway as the café was open. However, just behind the castle the D-Day museum and Overlord embroidery was open to look round.
I continued my walk along the prom down as far as the remains of Southsea Pier from where I caught the bus back to the Harbour and changed mode of transport to ferry as I crossed the harbour over to Gosport.
There were two attractions in Gosport that I wanted to visit. Both were only accessible by walking, the first a mile and a half to the North East, the other three quarters of a mile to the South West, so it was going to be a long afternoon of walking.
First stop was the Explosion! Museum on the site of the former Priddy’s Hard armaments supply depot. Having looked around their exhibitions I retraced my steps back into the centre of Gosport and back out again down to the submarine museum.
By the time I left the submarine museum it was starting to get late and by the time I was back at the ferry terminal in Gosport the sun was already starting to set.
I caught the bus the short distance back round to Old Portsmouth to take some photos of the Cathedral and the old fortified walls of the harbour, including the Square and Round towers.
A bit of a wander through the lanes of Old Portsmouth and eventually I arrived back at Gunwharf Quays knackered and in need of dinner, so I stopped off at a Yo-Sushi for a quick fuel stop.
After dinner I had a bit more of a wander through Old Portsmouth before catching the bus back round to the hotel and a well-earned sleep.
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I wandered down to the harbour and headed to the Historic Dockyard to take in the attractions there. First stop was the Iron built warship HMS Warrior followed by the Dockyard Apprentice Museum.
I had a quick look around action stations, which appeared to mostly be a service on behalf of Navy recruitment before taking a pit stop in the Georgian tea rooms.
I headed down to the Royal Navy museum and then the Victory Experience and Trafalgar panorama before heading over to have a look around the main attraction on the site, HMS Victory.
After looking round the Victory I popped next door to the museum for the Mary Rose, which at the time of visiting was about 20% of the way through its five year drying out process, having spent the previous 20 years absorbing a wax polymer to prevent the wood from decaying.
By the time I’d finished in the Mary Rose there was just about enough time to hot foot it down to Gunwharf Quays to pick up the harbour cruise that took a quick look round the harbour, which included a very interesting running commentary from the captain on all the ships from the Navy (and the US Submarine) that were in port.
Slightly windblown from the harbour cruise it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bags and then head back to the station and off home.
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Having stood all the way from Croydon to Brighton I was quite glad it was only a very short walk from the station down to the hotel, where I checked in, dropped off my bag in the room and headed out into town.
I had a wander down to the sea front and a bit of a wander along, but by now the drizzle had been upgraded to a heavy rain and with a gusty wind the conditions down on the sea front were anything less than pleasant, so I wandered back through The Lanes stopping for a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel.
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I had a quick breakfast before heading back down to the sea front and first stop of the morning, the Brighton Wheel.
Having taken in the views I had a long walk along the sea front down to the marina, where I stopped for a coffee before heading back into town which was now besieged by day trippers who had spotted it was a nice day and had headed for the coast.
To escape the worst of the tourist crowds I hopped on the bus up to the downs and headed out to the Devils Dyke where I had a bit of a wander and a very nice late lunch in the pub at the top of the Dyke.
Catching a late afternoon bus back towards town I changed buses in Hove and headed further along the coast to the seaside village (if you can call a suburb of Brighton a Village) of Rottingdean, stopping to sample one of the many cafés located in the settlement.
I took the bus back the long way round the back of Rottingdean and up over the racecourse so by the time it was coming back down the hill into Brighton I was greeted with the sight of the late winter sun slowly setting into the sea.
A bit of a wander round the city centre and then dinner before heading back to the hotel for a well earned rest.
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Breakfast completed and checked out I headed back down to the seafront, winding my way through the North Laine and The Lanes and then heading back in land to the city museum located in the stable block of the Royal Pavilion.
After the museum I headed across Pavilion gardens to have a look round the Royal Pavilion itself, and from there headed down to the Sealife centre on the sea front.
A late lunch by the sea front and then a wander down the pier, cut short by what felt like spots of rain.
Given how overcast the sky was I thought it was probably about time to make a move for home and I was just a couple of yards from the canopy of Brighton Station with my luggage when the skies started to open.
It being a Sunday it was of course the statutory Rail Replacement bus service back to Three Bridges, which at least lasted for the same length of time as the downpour so that by the time I had to get off the bus to catch the train for the final leg home it was down to just a fine misty drizzle.
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Having dropped my bags off I headed through into Departures to grab a light breakfast before wandering down to the gate.
Despite a bit of delay on departure due to a thick blanket of fog lying over southern England we still arrived in Barcelona about 10 minutes early and a short while later I was sitting on the train into the city centre.
Having dropped my bags into the left luggage locker at Sants station I wandered over to Plaça de Catalunya to pick up the open-top sightseeing tour bus and took it once round the red route of the Southern half of the city.
Back at Plaça de Catalunya I headed over to the Cathedral to have a look around and take in the views from the roof, before it was time to head over to the station, pick up my luggage and head over to the hotel to check in.
Checked in I headed back into the city centre for a bit of a wander before catching the last open-top tour of the evening to get the views of the city at sunset.
Back at Plaça de Catalunya just after 9pm and starving I decided I couldn’t be completely local and I had to eat, so I headed down towards the cathedra to find a bit to eat and located a very nice tapas restaurant.
Stuffed and sated I waddled back to the metro and caught the train back to the hotel and bed.
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However inside it was pretty amazing. When I last visited 10 years earlier the inside had still been a proper building site, but today the inside has been all but completed and it makes a stunning space.
I spent quite a long time taking in the stunning church before heading back into town to pick up the other open-top sightseeing bus route from the one I’d taken the previous day.
I did a full circuit before staying on round to the stop for the Blue Tram up to Mount Tibidabo.
I caught the tram and then the funicular up to the Temple de Sagrat Cor church at the top of the mountain and then took the lift inside the church to its viewing platform, officially the highest point in the city. From here the views over Barcelona and out over the Mediterranean were spectacular, despite the heat haze.
Having stopped for a very late lunch at Mount Tibidabo I came back down and caught the Metro back into town for a long wander, before picking up the last blue route sightseeing bus of the day to take in the views of the north of the city at sunset.
Again, starving by 9pm I hunted out another pleasant tapas restaurant before heading back to the hotel and a good night’s sleep
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The fortification offers, as any good fortification should do, stunning views over the city and the port.
After having a long look round I caught the cable car and funicular back down to ground level and had a wander through the lower parts of the park, which was also the finishing point for the Marathon which was starting to draw to a close.
I wandered up through the park, taking advantage of the handily placed escalators to avoid having to do any climbing, ending up at the Olympic stadium, which I had a look round, before heading back down into town for a quick look around the Barcelona History museum.
I’d held off doing this to quite late in the day, as it was free from 3pm onwards, but this did mean that I only really had time to do part of the museum justice, the spectacular Roman remains located in it’s basement.
Having whipped round the last part of the museum I headed back over to the hotel, picked up my luggage and made my way back to the airport.
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Heathrow itself was heaving, with many schools having a teacher training day and the holidays starting there appeared to be a mass exodus in full swing.
The flight left, on time, from gate 1 which turned out to be almost the completely opposite end of the terminal building from where I was when they announced it, and by the time I got to the gate they were making a final call.
We pushed back on time and had a smooth take-off, which was the last smooth part of the flight. Due to the particular atmospheric conditions there was turbulence at all heights across most of Western Europe and the best the pilots could do was get us into a pocket of mild turbulence rather than the full on plane rattling that was at our originally assigned height.
The bumping only really came to an end once we came below about 10,000 feet on final descent into Berlin, by which time the turbulence had taken its toll on a few of my fellow passengers.
Down on the ground and a quick baggage claim and uninterrupted stroll through customs and out to the bus over to the Hauptbahnhof meant that I had nearly two hours to kill before my train, but thankfully I’d paid the extra couple of euros to upgrade to first so could kill that time in the very pleasant DB Lounge
Pulling into Leipzig bang on time I wandered the short distance from the station to my hotel and checked in, dropped my stuff off and then went for a wander through town.
Just as it was starting to get dark, and my stomach was starting to rumble, I found myself on the main street of restaurants, so after a quick browse found a very nice Bierkeller for a leisurely dinner. I’d chosen a table outside which was very nice, but the layout of the pavement meant that I was sitting slightly awkwardly for most of dinner, but I didn’t really notice until I stood to get up to leave and found that my leg had almost completely gone to sleep.
With some feeling, and an odd twinge in the muscles, in my leg I had a bit more of a wander before heading back to the hotel for what I thought would be a good night’s sleep.
And for the first couple of hours I was right.
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Waking up I discovered that whilst the pain was less than during the night, the movement options were more limited, with putting on socks and stairs being the two most painful jobs of the morning.
After a very slow descent to breakfast, and a very large breakfast to make up for the lack of sleep and the pain, I hobbled out of the hotel, discovering that walking on the flat was generally OK.
So I ditched the plans to head out to, and climb up to the top of, the massive Völkerschlachtdenkmal and instead concentrated on seeing sights at ground level in the city centre.
I had quite a long, and slow, wander round the city centre, stopping off at the Nikolaikirch and the Thomaskirch to have a look around them before wandering over to the Stasi museum located in their former headquarters.
It was only as I was limping up the steps that I realised the bulk of the pain in my leg had gone, and it was now down to just stabbing pain on stairs, so by adjusting my gate to basically dragging my damaged leg up behind the good one I found I was starting to get around without too many problems.
Having visited the Stasi museum I headed over to the Hauptbahnhof to pick up the sightseeing tour bus and took in both of the routes that they did, covering much of the city. To my delight as I climbed down the stairs from the top deck of the second bus I realised that whilst it was still a bit uncomfortable, my leg was almost back to normal.
Given that my leg appeared to be working, and that I was right next to the Panorama Tower I decided that perhaps I would climb a tower, albeit 29 floors by lift and just two floors by stairs.
Descending back down to ground level I had a bit more of a wander around and very carefully chose my seat at the restaurant I had identified for dinner to try and make sure that my leg didn’t get the same treatment as the previous evening.
Another massive dinner later I wandered back through town to my hotel for a relatively early and I hoped full nights sleep.
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After a full breakfast I headed out across town to the Völkerschlachtdenkmal. When I’d previously visited it on a day trip from Berlin in 2006 it had looked quite shabby, covered in pollution and in serious need of renovation. Well in the intervening eight years that’s exactly what had happened, spurred on by the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Leipzig in 1813 that the monument was originally built to commemorate, the whole site had been given a spruce up, with lots more information, displays, more areas to visit, and a commensurate hike in the entrance fee.
I spent quite a bit of time in the monument, taking in the views and the exhibitions, so by the time I got back into the city centre it was already early afternoon, so I had a late lunch and did a bit of wandering through the town.
By the time I’d finished wandering it was already closing time for most of the museums, so I headed back to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out into town to grab a light dinner.
After dinner I caught the tram back out to the Völkerschlachtdenkmal to take some night photos before heading back to the hotel to pack ready for an early start the following morning.
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After arriving in Berlin and dropping my bag off at the left luggage lockers in the Hauptbahnhof I picked up a ticket and headed deep into the surrounding Brandenburg state to the city of Brandenburg an der Havel.
I only had a couple of hours to look round so I started by having a wander over towards the old town and the Cathedral Island. It was only as I walked past the second closed museum of the day that it finally twigged that it was a Monday, and consequently everything was going to be shut.
The Cathedral, or what of the Cathedral wasn’t undergoing a major renovation, was open to have a look around and a quick visit to the Cathedral museum.
I continued on having a wander around the town, taking in the ruins of the city walls and many watch towers that surround the old town.
By the time I eventually arrived at the back of the old town, having seen most things, I realised it was time I needed to head back towards the station and make the long journey home.
Back in Berlin just over an hour later I picked up my bags from the Hauptbahnhof, back tracked a couple of station to Zoo and picked up the airport express bus back out to Tegal and my flight home.
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About an hour later we pulled into Canterbury and I hiked across town to the hotel to checkin.
I wandered back out to have a look round town for a little while, detouring through the Cathedral grounds and then wandering out to the Westgate before heading back through the town centre to track down some dinner, then it was back to the hotel for an early night as I needed an early start the following morning
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I had a long visit to the site before heading back into Sandwich for a look around, and a spot of lunch, before catching an early afternoon bus back into town.
I headed up through the city centre and stopped off at the Eastbridge Hospital to have a look there, before heading over to the Cathedral, taking the advice of the guidebook to avoid the queues of the morning by turning up mid-afternoon, just before they started to close everything down for evensong.
I had a long look round the Cathedral, making sure I did the Choir first as that was due to close shortly after I arrived.
From the Cathedral I had a bit of a wander through town towards the river where I picked up a punt tour of the river with a very knowledgeable guide.
After the tour on the Stour I had a long wander through the city centre before heading back to the hotel to freshen up ready to head back out for dinner.
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From the Abbey I wandered over to have a look around the city walls, including visiting the Simmons monument and the remains of the city’s castle.
After a brief stop for lunch I hit the museums visiting the Roman museum, Beaney museum and gallery, Canterbury Tales and Canterbury Heritage museum in quick succession.
Knackered and suffering from a serious case of museum feet I brought myself 40 minutes of relaxation by taking one of the row boat tours of the Stour.
After the tour I had a bit more of a wander round the city centre before heading back to the hotel just before the sun started to set to grab dinner and an early night.
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By the time breakfast came round I was feeling better, but decided to forego the full cooked breakfast and instead stuck to bread based products.
Having completed breakfast I headed back to my room, packed, checked out and made my way back across town to the station and my train back to work.
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An exceptionally full, but comfortable and uneventful flight later we arrived into Salzburg where the plane was met by buses and a rather too efficient baggage team who were already driving across the airport apron fully loaded before the buses had pulled off from the plane.
With a very quick journey through immigration, baggage and customs I found myself less than 15 minutes after touching down boarding the bus into town.
After checking-in at the hotel and dropping my stuff off I went for a wander round town, taking in the main sights in the city centre, before taking the funicular railway up to the fortress to take in the views from there.
Descending back down into the old town I continued my wandering before ending up outside a very nice looking Bierkeller.
Quite a bit later, and fit to bursting from excellent bratwurst and even better beer I staggered out of the Bierkeller, had a very brief stop to take a few evening photos before heading back to the hotel and my bed.
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After having a wander around the cathedral I popped into the nearby Panorama museum to take in the stunning 19th century panorama picture of Salzburg, before heading back across the cathedral square to the Abbey of St Peters.
Alongside the impressive (and richly decorated) church and the interesting cemetery you can also visit the Catacombs that have been hewn out of the cliff face that rises up almost vertically behind the abbey.
From St Peters it was a short walk round the corner to the Franziskanerkirche for a quick look there, before I headed over to the Salzach to book myself onto one of the short river cruises up the river and a quick spot of lunch riverside before the cruise started.
The specially designed ship has to work hard to battle against, what is in effect a gushing mountain river, which in places is very shallow, but consequently you do get to see a lot as at times it’s barely moving forwards in the strong currents. However, coming back down stream with the motors on full blast you really do fly by. The tour ends with the boat doing its own little waltz in the middle of the Salzach before docking to demonstrate the agility of the craft (and to unsettle the stomachs of a few passengers)
I wandered back through the town stopping off to have a look round the last church of the day the Kollegienkirche before meandering my way through the little streets of the Alte Stadt.
I then headed over to the other hill on this side of the river the Mönchsberg to take the lift up through the middle of it to its summit and the stunning views it offers over the city centre, as well as stopping off at the Museum der modern, modern art gallery located on the summit.
Having looked round the gallery I descended back down to street level and headed back to the hotel to freshen up, before heading back out for dinner in another nice Bierkeller I’d spotted earlier in the day.
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Having taken in both the gardens and the palace I headed back into town and was just in time to sign up for an afternoon bus tour out to a salt mine and into the Bavarian alps.
The first stop of the tour was at one of the Prince Archbishops former salt mines near the town of Hallein. The tour through the mine takes about 90 minutes and included a ride on an old mine railway deep into the side of the mountain, a series of films about the history of the mines and salt’s relationship with both the Prince Archbishops and the city of Salzburg, a trip across a salt lake created as part of the extraction process and two very weird slides down, in one case, 42m between levels. The tour ends with an escalator ride back up to the level of the railway (as of course every good mine should have its own escalators…). Due to its location we ended up crossing the border into Germany and later back into Austria, all nearly 200m below the ground
From the mine we drove further up into the alps, crossing the border back into Germany, again, and this time up to the Obersalzburg, the area that became synonymous with the Nazi regime after Hitler brought a summer house here. Today there is almost nothing left of the giant fortified complex that was built up here, other than the Eagles Nest, the mountain top command centre, though as its only open between May and October it wasn’t possible to visit.
From the Obersalzburg we descended part way back down the mountains to the lovely small German town of Berchtesgaden. This is a pretty little town, and would probably still be a quiet sleepy Bavarian Alpine village if it hadn’t been the nearest settlement to the Nazi headquarters at the Obersalzburg and therefore the town name linked to them, and as such making the town a target for bombing raids at the end of the war.
After a stop in the town for a very late lunch we headed back onto the bus and back along the riverside to Salzburg.
Although lunch had only been about 50 minutes earlier, it had been very light, so I grabbed a light dinner before having a bit of a wander round town and then headed back to the hotel.
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There is quite a lot to see up at the fortress with a number of exhibitions and museums and so by the time I had finished looking round it was already early afternoon. I descended back down into town on the funicular and made it over to the Salzburg Festival Halls just in time to take the daily guided tour round the theatre complex.
The festival halls are only actually used for seven weeks in the entire year, a week at Whitsun and then the main six week festival in July and August, during the rest of the time they lie idle, apart from a daily group of tourists wandering round. To some ways that helps to explain the eye watering prices that were quoted for seats at any of the performances during the festival.
The tour started in the relatively new (2006) Mozart house which has a large auditorium and an almost equally as large stage, which the tour takes you round into the back of. After the Mozart House you then move into the main space the Rock Theatre. Originally carved out of the sheer cliff face to act as a viewing space for the Spanish Riding School that was located in front of the cliffs, today it’s been turned into the dramatic backdrop for the main stage (on which a certain Von-Trapp family performed on shortly before deciding to take a permanent and very sudden vacation from Salzburg), and apparently adds something special to the acoustics of the space.
The tour ends in what is now the halls bar, but at the time of creation was the indoor riding hall.
After the tour I headed over to the Salzburg museum to have a look around there before a quick, and late, lunch in the Motzartplatz.
After lunch I wandered over to the Schloß Mirabell, built by the then Prince Archbishop Wolf-Dietrich for his lover Salome, with whom he fathered 15 children (not bad for a senior Catholic cleric…) The palace itself was already closed for the evening, but the stunning gardens were still open so I had a long wander around them before finding myself back by the riverside, slightly downstream from the centre of town and from where it was possible to get some excellent pictures of the old town and fortress.
I walked back alongside the river to the old town and had a dinner in the same bierkeller I’d been to on the first night before heading back to the hotel and a well-earned rest.
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I had an uneventful journey through the airport, and everything appeared to be running smoothly with everyone on board and ready to go about 10 minutes before we were due to depart, but then one of the passengers got taken ill and had to be taken off of the plane.
By the time they had managed to get a paramedic to check him over, confirm he was unfit to fly, recover his bags from the hold and then get back to a ready to depart position we were over an hour late pushing back and even later by the time we finally turned onto the runway to take off.
Thankfully an uneventful flight (which I suppose it probably wouldn’t have been if they hadn’t taken the sick person off…) later we touched down in Edinburgh and after a quick journey through the airport I was on the bus into town.
I’d originally had several hours to kill in Edinburgh, but with the delay to the flight this was now only a couple of hours, so I had grabbed a very slow cup of coffee near the station before heading down to catch my train north.
The train was packed almost the whole way to Inverness, so I was quite glad of the short walk from the station down to the hotel to be able to stretch my limbs a little.
Having checked in I went for a bit of a wander through the city, and up the River Ness towards the Ness Islands.
After quite a long walk I headed back to the hotel to grab dinner and an early night
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The train journey was stunning as the little train pootled its way through the mountains and along the side of lochs over to the West coast of Scotland and the nearest crossing point to Skye, Kyle of Lochalsh. At one time this was a bustling ferry port with the ferry across to Skye shuttling backwards and forwards, but with the opening of the Skye bridge the town has quietened down and had an almost deserted feel at midday on a Saturday.
After a brief wander around town I headed over to the bus stop to pick up the coach for the final leg of the journey over the bridge and up the Isle of Skye to its capital Portree.
I had five hours to look around Portree, but it soon became apparent that this was probably a couple of hours too many as it was clear there wasn’t much to see.
Having looked around the harbour, and gone for a walk through town I was still left with quite a bit of time to kill before the coach back, not much to do, and rapidly deteriorating weather.
In the end I found a very nice café near on the main square of town and settle down to a long period of drinking coffee and reading a book.
A little before 5:30 my coach back pulled in so I was able to dash from the café, through the downpour, to the coach and board.
I’d booked onto a coach that went all the way back to Inverness via a different route from the train which was, if anything, more stunning that the train ride over in the morning had been, with the road hugging the side of many more lochs before shooting up through the mountains and finally coming back down towards Loch Ness and the final leg back into the city.
It was amazing how tired you can become not doing very much. A three hour train ride in the morning, a four hour coach ride in the evening and most of the middle part of the day sitting down in a café and I was feeling absolutely shattered, so I grabbed some sandwiches from a supermarket near the bus station, had them for dinner and headed to bed.
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The mountain range was my destination for the afternoon, but first I picked up the steam train that leaves from the national railway station to head deeper into the highlands, up the Spey Valley.
A very genteel ride through Boat of Garten and up to the small station at Broomhill, and then back took nearly two hours, after which it was lunch time.
Having consumed lunch in a small café in town I headed over to the bus stop near the station to take the bus up into the mountains and to the base station of the Cairn Gorm mountain railway.
I took the funicular railway up the side of Britain’s 6th highest mountain, adding another mountain to my list of British Isles mountains conquered without expending any energy (Snowdon, Aonach Mòr and Snaefell being the other major ones so far), and another slightly tacky mountain top restaurant and shop experience.
After some time at the top of the mountain I retraced my steps back down the funicular and then back by bus down into Aviemore to catch the train back to Inverness, dinner and an early night.
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30 minutes later we were let back into the hotel and after leaving it about 45 minutes for the worst of the queue for breakfast to die down (given everyone was now up, they were clearly all going to go to breakfast at the same time), I headed down for breakfast.
Having checked out I wandered over into the centre of town to pick up the City Sightseeing tour bus to take the tour of the city.
I did one complete circuit and part of a second circuit to get back close to the hotel so that I could pick up my bag and head back over to the station.
I was very early for the train, but this proved to be a good idea as they allowed boarding to start more than 30 minutes before departure and I was able to get a comfortable seat with a big window and plenty of space, which given by the time the train left there were lots of people standing, was a godsend.
Three and a half hours later we pulled into Edinburgh Waverley station and I walked the short distance over to the airlink bus stop and picked up the bus back to the airport and my flight home.
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Of course, I’d failed to take into account the combined effects of the Friday afternoon immediately before a school half term holiday, that was also the start of a bank holiday weekend, and accompanied by heavy showers.
The upshot was whilst I made it to Feltham in a little over 30 minutes, the next four miles to the airport took considerably longer and included having the first bus terminate short at Hatton Cross tube station, the tubes in a mess, and when I did finally get on another bus lots of roadworks that took ages to get through.
Having checked into the hotel I headed out to the airport terminal for an early dinner, and then back to the hotel for a relatively early (though not as early as I’d hoped for) night.
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An uneventful flight later we landed into a very humid and overcast Oslo, hotter and certainly more muggy that London had been. Having collected my bags and cleared customs I headed up to the departures level and just 15 minutes after picking my bag up from the baggage belt I was sending it on it’s way again back into the baggage system, this time with a Tromsø label and into the care of SAS.
Back through security for the second time, and for the second time in four hours into the holding pattern of waiting in the departures lounge, only slightly livened up by the gate being moved 10 minutes before departure.
An uneventful second flight of the day deposited me north of the Arctic Circle in Tromsø from where I headed into town and over to the hotel.
After checking in I went for a wander around town before heading back for the dinner that was included in the room rate.
Dinner completed I headed out for long walk over the Fjord to the mainland and the cable car up the city’s mountain.
Despite the overcast, and at time sleety weather, the views were pretty stunning and I took quite a few photos before heading back down in the cable car, and then cheating and catching the bus back into town and to my hotel bed.
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We landed at the small airport and after an incredibly quick transit through the terminal building (think out of town DIY store), was on the shuttle bus into town.
Having checked into the hotel we went for a wander round town, stopping off at the Svalbard museum to have a look around that.
After a very pleasant (if morally dubious) dinner in the hotel restaurant we headed out again for a bit more of an explore round the totally deserted town.
With not much else to do we headed back to the hotel to have a drink in the bar, before realising that it was already gone 10pm at night, but with the sun still happily shining down from a clear blue sky all concept of time had gone out of the window.
After staying up a little while to watch through to midnight sun I headed down to my room to draw the thankfully very effective curtains and then turned in for the day.
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The Maxi-Taxi tour took in all the sights of Longyearbyen, including the site of the former settlement, destroyed during WWII, and the adjoining settlement (now merged into Longyearbyen) of Nybyen. We then went up into the hills overlooking the fjord to visit the weather radar station and a look at the city’s mine – the only one still functioning nearby and used purely to supply enough coal for the power station to work.
After the tour there was a little bit of time to wander round the centre of Longyearbyen before it was time for activity number 2 of the day, the slightly less sedentary Husky dog sledging.
Having previously done something similar on the Hurtigruten trip the previous year I wasn’t expecting this tour to be quite so hands on – from the harnessing and setting up of our sledges, to actually having to do all the mushing, which up the side of a mountain is not a fun thing.
After a couple of hours we arrived back in town, exhilarated but also exhausted and aching in places I didn’t know it was possible to ache in.
As it was already pretty late in the evening I had to grab dinner in the restaurant first, before they stopped serving, before I could get into a very hot bath and try and sooth some of my muscles.
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After being collected by coach and dropped off at our ship we were told the bad news that we wouldn’t be able to visit Pyramiden as the sea-ice was still too thick for the ship to be able to break through, and whilst this was a bit of a disappointment, as we were on an ice-breaker it did mean that we were going to be able to see exactly what it’s like to sail through ice.
Most of the day was spent on the ship sailing around the various fjords, including the bizarre situation of having a delicious on-ship barbecue whilst ice breaking through a frozen sea.
About 9 hours after leaving Longyearbyen we arrived back and headed back to the hotel for dinner and to pack.
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The wait was shortened when a taxi driver dropped off some passengers and asked if we were going to the airport as he was heading that way and he’d take us for the same price as the bus, we’ll we weren’t going to turn that down.
It was a very busy morning at the airport with a Norwegian Air Shuttle flight to Oslo arriving and then departing 50 minutes before our SAS flight.
Whilst the flight back wasn’t nearly as impressive as the flight up due to much thicker cloud, there were still some pretty impressive views of the Norwegian coast as we headed in over the Western Fjords and down into Oslo
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After checking in we headed down to Aker Brygge to grab some dinner, but in the end had to make do with some fast food from a nearby stall as most of the restaurants were already closing their kitchens for the evening.
A quick wander around Aker Brygge and then it was back to the hotel with the sun starting to set for the first time in days.
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First stop was a look around the Fram museum and then the Kon-Tiki museum before catching the bus up and round to the Viking ship museum.
After stopping for a late lunch at the Viking ship museum we walked round the corner to the Norwegian Folk museum, the collection of historic buildings from across the country. When I’d visited about 10 years earlier it had been in the winter, and most of the buildings had been closed, but in the height of summer it was possible to see inside a number of the buildings, in particular the spectacular stave church.
Having looked round the folk park we wandered back down to the fjord-side to pick up the boat back to the centre of Oslo.
A quick freshen up and then out for dinner, after which we had a wander around the castle complex before heading back to the hotel for a well-deserved sleep.
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Finally fuelled for the day we headed out to the Akershus Festning to have a look around.
After the castle we wandered down to the harbour area to pick up one of the regular service boats that goes out around the islands, using it (and the free travel included with the Oslo card) as a much cheaper sightseeing service than the official sightseeing tour boats.
Back on the mainland we caught the metro and headed up into the hills overlooking the Oslofjorden to Frognersteren to take in the views, and a stop at the café/restaurant close to the summit.
A quick freshen up in town and then back out for dinner.
After dinner we caught the tram round to Vigeland Park and had a look around before heading back to the hotel
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Refuelled, first stop of the morning was a quick look round the Cathedral on route into the centre of town and then back out the other side and onto the Munch Museum.
Last time I’d visited was just after (another) break-in at the museum where they had their copy of the Scream stolen and the museum had been closed.
It had taken about two years for the painting to be recovered, and in that time they had beefed up security quite a bit, so getting into the museum was probably more protected and security aware than boarding an international flight.
Having looked around the museum we headed back down to Aker Brygge and caught another of the service boats out into the Fjord for a bit more sightseeing, before heading back to the Town Hall and picking up the open-top sightseeing tour bus to take in the sights of Oslo from there.
Having done a full circuit we headed back to the hotel to freshen up, and then out for one final really expensive dinner in Norway.
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The tour took significantly longer than expected as the service coincided with the arrival of another cruise ship, so the bus stopped for over 20 minutes at the cruise terminal to attract custom, and by the time it left was considerably busier that it had been for the rest of the tour.
Back in the centre of town we stopped for a quick bite of lunch before heading back to the hotel to pick up the bags and start the long journey back to the UK.
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We arrived in Glasgow a little after 22:15 at a gate over the far side of the airport so by the time we’d gotten to the baggage hall and collected the bags, which took even longer than the passengers to arrive, I’d just missed the Jet Bus into the city, and rather than the usual 10 minute wait that this would normally require, there was now a 30 minute gap until the next service at midnight.
Getting off the bus at Buchannan bus station I walked the short distance to the hotel and, after managing to raise the night reception to let me in, checked in and went straight to bed.
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I walked from the station over to the hotel just to see if I could checkin (even though it was long before checkin was supposed to open). The room I was booked into was just being cleaned so they looked after my bag for a little while whilst I popped next door to the Beefeater restaurant to have a rather bigger lunch than I was originally planning on having.
Stuffed I waddled back round to the hotel, checked in, and then headed back into town.
I headed over to the bus station to pick up the bus round to a place that’s now a suburb of Stirling, but 700 years ago was empty land, land on which one of the most important battles is Scottish history was fought.
Bannockburn is the battle that all Scots remember – 24th June 1314. Having chosen to visit on the 7th June 2014 just days before the 700th anniversary, it wasn’t surprising that there was quite a bit of a show on.
I had a long look round the visitors centre before heading out to the battlefield monument.
Unfortunately, at the same time as I was heading out to the monument the weather, which had been fine up to then, decided to deteriorate quite quickly and in the time it took look briefly look round the monument I got pretty well drenched.
I, soggily, caught the bus back into town, which thankfully had its heating set to furnace, so by the time I arrived back in the centre of Stirling I was only slightly damp.
I had a brief wander round the city centre before heading back to the hotel to change into clothing that hadn’t been rained on and then blast dried by a buses heating system.
The hotel itself was pretty new having only recently opened in a new leisure park area on the site of a former barracks, so along with the hotel and the Beefeater restaurant there were a couple of other restaurants as well as a cinema, so with the weather still being particularly poor I grabbed dinner in another of the nearby restaurants and spent the evening watching a film.
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I had a look around the ruins of Mars Wark and was wandering around the neighbouring cemetery when the first heavy (and cold) shower of the morning briskly passed through. By the time I’d made it to some shelter it had actually stopped raining, and that was pretty much the experience for the rest of the day lots of very short but very heavy showers.
From the cemetery I walked the short distance up the last part of the hill to Stirling Castle and spent much of the day having a long wander around the site.
After finishing in the castle I started to head back down the hill, but stopped off at Argyll’s Lodgings just down from the castle for a quick look around.
Back down in the town centre I hopped on a bus up to the suburb of Causewayhead to pay a visit to the National Wallace Monument.
The high Victorian Gothic monument is located on the top of a rocky outcrop and is visible from across the city. It commemorates William Wallace and is placed where historians think he and his men would have waited for the English before sweeping down on them for a memorable victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge, a few years before Bannockburn.
From the top of the monument the views are spectacular, particularly as the skies had now cleared, temporarily, to reveal the Forth Valley in its full beauty.
By the time I had descended back down to ground level the monument was just on closing time so I wasn’t able to look round the visitors centre. Instead I headed back into town on the bus and from there picked up the train one stop up the line to Alloa to have a look around there.
Sadly, there wasn’t very much to see in Alloa, and there didn’t even really look like anywhere to have dinner (other than the Asda café) so I headed back into Stirling to have a curry in the old town before heading back to the hotel and a good night’s sleep.
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At one time Doune had played an important role in Scottish life. Its castle was heavily refurbished and expanded by the Duke of Albany the man who was the power behind the crown for three successive Scottish kings in the mid to late 14th century, turning it into an impressive fortress.
The castle is still in reasonably good nick, which is possibly why it’s been used for many period dramas and films, the most famous of which saw it doubling for at least five different castles from the mighty Camelot through the weirdly named Anthrax to the down at heel Swamp Castle.
For it was from the battlements of this castle that a French soldier taunted King Arthur and over these walls that a Trojan Rabbit was launched in Monty Python and the Holy Grail
Having looked round the castle I headed back into Stirling, with the original plan of spending a bit more time looking round the city.
However, on the way back what had started as a light shower appeared to develop into full on heavy rain, and after sheltering for some time in a café in the centre of Stirling it was clear that it wasn’t going to get any better, so I cheated and got a taxi round to the hotel, asked him to wait whilst I picked up my bags, and headed back to the station thus avoiding getting utterly soaked.
I arrived back into Glasgow just as the evening rush hour was starting, so I decided it was probably best to head out to the airport then and be early rather than risking it.
On a wet Monday evening I was glad I’d made that decision as the bus took nearly 50 minutes to make a journey that should have taken just 15, arriving at the airport with plenty of time for me to make my flight, but clearly having cut it very fine for some of my fellow passengers.
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A very bumpy, but quick, 10 minutes later we landed at Ryde hover port and I walked the short distance to the bus station.
By now it was heading towards the evening rush hour (if the Isle of Wight can be said to have such a thing), so the bus took some time to get into Newport. I disembarked a couple of stops before the end near the hotel and wandered down to the reception to check-in.
After checking in and dropping my stuff off in my room I wandered on into town to have a look around, before hopping on a bus up to the northern port town of Cowes to have a look around.
A bit of a wander round Cowes and I found myself at the floating bridge or chain ferry. I took this over to East Cowes and there picked up a different bus back in towards Newport, that stopped at the same stop near the hotel as the bus from Ryde had earlier.
I wandered back down to the hotel and had a very pleasant dinner in the onsite restaurant before turning in for an early night.
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I spent the whole of the morning exploring the site, both the house and grounds, which stretch down to a former private beach that the royals used.
I caught the bus on into Ryde and had a bit of a wander around town before hopping on the open-top tour that runs from Ryde out over the downs.
90 minutes later and back in Ryde slightly windblown I had a late lunch before wandering out along the pier to take in the views of both the town and across the Solent towards Portsmouth.
I caught the train back one stop, the shortest national rail train journey that you can make, to Ryde Esplanade to pick up the last Island Explorer bus of the evening.
This one was heading back to Newport, but the long way round via the whole of the east and south coasts of the island.
The journey took nearly 3 hours, but I got to see a very large amount of the island.
Back in Newport I grabbed a quick bite to eat in town before heading back to the hotel
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Having spent a couple of hours looking round Carisbrooke I caught the bus on to Yarmouth and had a look around their much smaller castle.
After a spot of lunch by the harbour I picked up the Needles Breezer open-top tour and went for a ride round the countryside of the South West of the island, ending up at the Needles.
I had a look around the formerly secret rocket testing facility at the New Battery before heading down the hill to have a look around the restored Old Battery.
After looking round the Needles from the top of the cliffs I wandered back along the cliffs to Alum Bay and took the chairlift down to the beach, where I picked up a speedboat tour around the Needles and Alum Bay.
After spending a little time in the very twee heritage centre at Alum Bay I picked up the penultimate Needles Breezer of the afternoon back up to the Needles and then back on into Yarmouth.
Another bit of a wander around Yarmouth before it was time to pick up the bus back into Newport, dinner and a well-earned rest.
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Unfortunately I hadn’t and so I was booked on the midday train from Brockenhurst which meant I had to make some tight connections to ensure I didn’t end up missing the train and having to pay through the nose for a new ticket.
After checking out I decided that at this time of the morning it wasn’t worth risking that the bus from near the hotel to Newport would connect with the next bus, so I walked into the centre of town and the bus station, in time to pick up the number 7 towards Yarmouth.
Halfway between Newport and Carisbrooke, at the narrowest point on the road, naturally, a bus going in the opposite direction had broken down and so a good five minutes (or almost all) of my connection time was spent inching round that.
As if that wasn’t enough to give me palpitations shortly after Carisbrooke the bus had to abruptly stop and then reverse about 200m back down a road as it came head to head with a massive tractor occupying most of the carriageway.
Two more encounters with tractors meant that by the time I reached Yarmouth my 15 minutes to connect to the ferry was down to just 3 minutes.
I made it to the terminal building and onto the ferry, just, with moments to spare.
Thankfully, a 30 minute uneventful crossing later dropped me off in Lymington with enough time to catch the train back to Brockenhurst in time to make the connection there.
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After a chaotic check-in it was through to a heaving departures lounge due to the late running of a previous Brussels train. Thankfully that started boarding relatively soon after I got into the lounge making it a bit quieter. More thankfully it was just their train that had been delayed, mine started boarding on time and in fact was already closed up and ready to depart a few minutes early, though they still kept us in the station until our departure time.
An uneventful journey through the Chunnel and across to Belgium, I arrived in Midi and made a quick interchange to the Inter City service up to Blankenberge.
At Blankenberge I crossed over to the Kusttram stop and picked up a three day ticket from the machine which thankfully managed to spit it and my change out in enough time to be able to dash over the tracks to the opposite platform where the next tram was waiting (although looking at the departures screen showed the next one was less than 10 minutes away)
I got off the tram in Zeebrugge and walked the five minutes or so back to the hotel to check-in
After checking in I wandered back down to the tram to take it back into Blankenberge with an idea of having a bit of a wander through the dunes before taking a pleasant dinner on the promenade. Unfortunately, this was about to be taken to pieces by the weather
I got off the tram a stop before the centre of Blankenberge to climb up through the dunes, but as I did a gigantic flash of lightning and almost instant rumble of thunder indicated that the weather was about to break, spectacularly.
I managed to dash back down to the shelter on the tram stop only getting a mild soaking. As I got there a tram was arriving so I decided to hop onto that to shelter from the worst of the rain, which I thought would only last a few minutes.
35 minutes later and approaching the centre of Oostende the rain finally started to die down. I got off the tram and went for a bit of a wander around Oostende, but found that most restaurants were already closing for the evening – clearly the weather had done for passing trade. So instead I had to hop back on a tram and take the 50 minute ride back to Zeebrugge and a pleasant, but not entirely desired pizza in the hotel bar.
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It took over two hours, of, at times, very pretty scenery, to get to the very end of the line.
I walked the short distance down onto the beach and most of the way up to the French border, before heading back into De Panne and along the promenade to the far side of town.
I hopped back onto the tram and went along the coast to the next stop in Koksijde where I stopped for a late lunch and then a wander through the dunes and along the beach to the next town of Oostduinkerke.
At Oostduinkerke I picked up the tram again and caught it along to Nieuwpoort where I went for a wander along both the beach and the riverside down into the centre of town.
Back onto the tram and onto the next stop at Westende and a quick wander around the town. I was thinking of stopping for a quick drink and a bite to eat in a café or bar, but as Belgium’s world cup game (that they were about to lose) was on things were a little busy so I hopped back on the tram down to Raversijde.
At Raversijde the remains of the Atlantic Wall defences that were built, initially during the First World War, but then heavily strengthened by the Nazi’s during the Second are able to be seen from the beach. I had a wander along a stretch of the wall to the next tram stop.
By the time I reached the tram stop the light was starting to fade and the trams were about to go down to a 20 minute rather than 10 minute frequency, so I decided to call it an evening and head back to the hotel, which was still a good hours ride away.
As it had been a very pleasant pizza the previous evening I had dinner again in the bar in the hotel and watched some very dejected Belgians suddenly morph into proud Flemish supporters of the Dutch side.
Sated, and feeling knackered from a lot of walking in dunes, I headed up to my room and sleep.
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I had a long wander through De Haan, which is a very pretty town, and up onto the beach. From the prom I walked out into the dunes and had a long wander along until I saw a helpful sign pointing to a tram stop the other side of the dunes, so I headed up through them.
As I turned to go up through the dunes I couldn’t help but notice that Oostende was no longer visible as a heavy black cloud had enveloped that part of the coast, so I picked up the speed a bit and made it to the tram stop just as some hefty drops of rain were starting to fall.
However, by Wenduine it was clear skies again so I had a long wander around the Mole area and then down onto the beach and the town.
Back onto the tram and into Blankenberge, I wandered through the town and out onto the esplanade. This is clearly the most resort-y of the towns on the coast with lots of high rise towers, casino’s and the entire seafront occupied by waterfront bars and restaurants. It was to one of these that I retired to have a spot of lunch and then extend my stay as another spectacular storm ripped across the Belgium coast.
After a longer lunch than I had been intending to consume I wandered along the prom to the pier in a light drizzle, only to be caught out as the intensity of the rain suddenly shot up again.
A couple of minutes, and five euros lighter, I emerged from a little kiosk shop with an umbrella and walked back to the tram stop.
I caught the tram up the line through Zeebrugge and onto the last coastal town Heist. However, by the time I reached Heist the weather had deteriorated even further and I decided that it wasn’t worth the hassle any longer so I hopped on the next tram back to Zeebrugge and collected my luggage.
Checking the train and tram times showed that the easiest (and driest) connection was to carry on all the way back to Oostende and pick up the direct Intercity train from there, which I did, back to Brussels and a 45 minute wait for check-in for the Eurostar to open that was at least in the dry.
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Despite getting the slow train, and it going even slower because of signal problems at Redhill, I still arrived at Gatwick nearly three hours before departure.
After a very long wait in the airport the flight was called and we all merrily trooped down to gate 572, where the plane was already waiting, and about 10 minutes later they started to board us.
It was only whilst in my seat looking out of the window I realised that we might be in for a bit of a delay as they were still off-loading the luggage from the inbound flight. Given it had landed at least 40 minutes beforehand it would go to explain why luggage takes so long to get round at Gatwick.
Whilst we sat on the tarmac waiting for the luggage to come off, our luggage to come on, and then the catering to arrive, the fine sunny afternoon started to change, and by the time we were pushing back lightning was flashing around the sky surrounding Gatwick.
The initial take-off wasn’t too bad, but pretty soon we were into some very heavy turbulence as we had no option but to come round the edge of the thunder storm. It was a good half hour before the captain was finally able to turn off the seatbelt signs.
And it was a repeat on the way down, if anything more spectacular storms were raging around Bordeaux as we approached, so it was a very unpleasant approach and landing.
Finally, close to 11:30 at night more than 10 hours later than originally planned, I found myself at the bus stop for the airport bus to the hotel, waiting under a shelter as a torrential downpour, accompanied by lightning in all directions, continued.
Thankfully, the storm started to die down and by the time I reached the hotel, a little after midnight it was just the odd drop of water falling from the sky.
Having checked in I headed straight for bed.
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I caught the tram out to the river and had a long wander down the riverside, taking in the impressive Bordeaux riverside buildings, before heading back into the centre of town near the tourist office and wandering through the pedestrianized centre before reaching the square by the Cathedral and Town Hall.
I stopped in a little café overlooking the cathedral for lunch, and was then going to visit the Cathedral, except it was closing for its lunch. So, instead, I wandered up to the Saint Seurin Basilica to have a look round both the church and the impressive archaeological remains in the crypt beneath it.
From Saint-Seurin I walked the kilometre or so out to the only remaining part of the Roman city, a small chunk of the amphitheatre, which is all that survives following a decision made after the revolution to pull the whole of the area down to create new housing.
Having looked round the ruins of the amphitheatre I wandered back into town through the Public and Botanic gardens before picking up the tram round to the Saint Michael Basilica. After looking round the church I was going to climb the neighbouring bell tower for its views over the city, but by now the weather was incredibly close and just walking on the flat was unpleasant enough without the thought of climbing up a tower.
Instead I wandered back over to the cathedral to have a look around, inside it was beautifully cool and so I joined the many other tourists who had discovered this little haven from the oppressive heat and spent quite a bit of time just sat inside the cathedral cooling down.
Some of the humidity had started to ease when I left the cathedral, so I wandered back to the hotel, rather than trying to get onto the packed trams that were going past, to freshen up before heading back out to dinner at a restaurant down by the riverside.
I had a very nice meal, and just as I was finishing was able to see the start of the after-dinner show – another spectacular thunder storm starting to travel up the river. Having paid the bill I hastily made my way back to the hotel, managing to get in just as the first heavy spots of rain were falling. A few minutes later I was able to sit in the dry of my room watching the skies light up and the rains lash down.
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Back down on the ground I wandered over to a nearby café for a quick pit stop, and to sit out what I thought would be a short shower. Over an hour later after three torrential downpours it finally looked like it was starting to ease off on the rain, so I caught the tram round to St Michaels to climb its tower
Again, part way up the tower many of the views disappeared, but on this occasion it started chucking it down whilst I was up the tower, including a couple of flashes of lightning – not something to fill you with confidence given I’d just read the original tower had been destroyed by a lightning strike a couple of hundred years earlier.
Back down at ground level, and in the dry, I had a wander through the city, stopping off at the Grosse Cloche (big clock) and then down to Porte Cailhau.
I wandered a bit further down the riverside towards the Place de la Bourse and had a brief look round there before the next cloudburst sent me (and many other tourists) scurrying for shelter.
By the time it had stopped absolutely chucking it down it was gone five so I headed back to the hotel to freshen up and then a little later headed out for dinner at a nice restaurant I’d spied whilst sheltering from the showers.
The restaurant had quite a large outside eating area looking onto a very pleasant square, so I was a little miffed when I was directed to a table at the back of the terrace area, right next to the restaurant building. 20 minutes later I was very glad the waiters had done that as the skies opened for a torrential downpour that overwhelmed the umbrellas that were protecting the forward most tables and soaking a fair number of tourists.
Dinner consumed I had a bit more of a wander, playing hide and seek with the showers as they passed through, before heading back to the hotel to start the packing process and a good night’s sleep.
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The views from the boat were stunning, but because it was during the start of lunchtime there was only a limited service running backwards and forwards between the pier and the main transport hub at Quinconces rather than further up the river.
I had a bit of a wander around the city centre, and the caught the little electric bus that runs through the narrow streets of the old town down to Victoria where I had a look around, and then stopped in a restaurant on a small square for a very nice lunch.
I caught the tram back up to Quinconces and was in time to pick up the ferry services up the river. I did a round trip on the boat landing me back at Quinconces to join the open-top sightseeing tour bus.
By the time the tour got back to Quinconces it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my luggage and make my way to the airport for my already delayed flight.
Eventually, 30 minutes before we were originally due to depart someone actually thought to tell the passengers what those of us with the App already knew, that the flight was delayed by over an hour and that it was going to be a very late arrival into Gatwick
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This also had the advantage of bringing the humidity right down to a level where humping a heavy suitcase across southern London wasn’t such a chore.
The rain, and earlier thunderstorms had caused chaos to the railways with lightning strikes and flooding taking services out all over the place, but thankfully my trains all ran smoothly and a little after 21:30 I found myself at the reception of the airport hotel checking in.
Having dropped my bags off I headed back to the terminal building to pick up some items for dinner from the Marks and Spencer before heading back to my room for a light dinner and then bed
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An uneventful flight later, and 10 minutes earlier than scheduled, we touched down in Zagreb and after a speedy journey through the airport I found myself on the shuttle bus into town. From the bus station it was a pretty humid and sultry 20 minute walk to the hotel where I checked in and went to my room where the air-conditioning had already been set to a beautiful arctic level.
Bags dropped off I headed out into town, initially just intending on going for a wander as I hadn’t really read that much up on the city. However, when I got to the main square it was just in time to catch the free land train tour round the southern edge of the city centre so I was able to see quite a bit from there.
Back in the main square I then saw an advert for the Zagreb Eye, based at the top of the tallest office tower off the square, so I took the lift up to the viewing platform for some stunning views over the city.
Back down at ground level I wandered over to the Cathedral and had a look round there. As I was coming out of the cathedral the sightseeing tour bus arrived for the 4pm tour so I decided to jump on that and take in some more of the sights of the city.
By the time the tour got back to the cathedral it was almost 6, so I decided to hunt down some food as I suddenly realised that I hadn’t eaten anything since a not particularly filling breakfast on the plane 9 hours earlier.
Sated from dinner, the last part of which was accompanied by a spectacular electric storm, I had started to head back to the hotel, a journey which took quite a bit longer than expected as on a couple of occasions I had to dive for cover as the rain tried to pour down, but kept failing.
Eventually, a few minutes after I got back to the hotel the skies did finally properly open and absolutely chucked it down for more than an hour, by the end of which I was happily ensconced in the hotel bar for the evening.
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I wandered up through the centre of town to take the funicular up to the upper town. I had a bit of a wander round the upper town, and at this point found out that not only are most of the museums and attractions closed all day on Monday, they also close at 1pm on a Sunday afternoon, which meant most things were already closed.
The one thing that was running was the open-top tour bus, and my ticket from the previous day was still valid, so I re-took the green line that I had done the previous afternoon, this time sitting on the opposite side of the bus, from where there were much better views.
Having done a lap of the green route I was back near the restaurants around the cathedral, so I decided to have a slow late lunch/early dinner. This managed to occupy nearly two hours, by which time the first of the afternoon red route tours was ready to depart so I took that round for a tour of the city.
Back at the cathedral again I went for a long wander, and an evening drink, but decided that I was still stuffed from the enormous lunch, so instead, after a bit more of a walk, headed back to the hotel and an early night.
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I had a long walk round the gardens and then wandered back over to the funicular to head back up into the upper town.
I stopped for a long lunch in one of the few open restaurants up on the hill and then, as it was open, climbed up the Lotrscak tower to take in the views over the city, much of the view being a massive great big black cloud with lightning emanating from it.
I decided the highest exposed point in the city was probably a bad place to be standing so headed back down the tower, down into the lower town and over to my hotel which I reached with about 30 seconds to spare before an absolute cloudburst drenched the city.
The torrential downpour went on for about 2 hours, after which the worst of the humid conditions had abated and I was able to wander out to have a pre-dinner drink in a little café near the main square before heading slightly further up the road to a very nice dinner.
Back at the hotel I did a quick pack ready for the morning and then turned in.
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Halfway towards the next stop the person I had suspicions about stood up, flashed his ID badge and with another couple of colleagues did a full ticket check of the tram, catching out a couple of other tourists who clearly hadn’t bothered trying more than one validator.
Whilst they were being given a talking to on the platform at the bus station stop I walked over loaded my luggage into the coach and headed out of town to the airport.
On checking in I was upgraded to business, which I thought was going to be great, until they said there wasn’t a lounge for domestic customers and instead I had to sit in the tiny and very humid gate room (not even a café or a working vending machine!) with everyone else.
We boarded on time but for some reason the plane just sat there for about 15 minutes without moving, until two really noisy jet fighters shot down the runway and took off beside us, at which point we were allowed to start our take-off roll
50 minutes late we touched down in Dubrovnik and 30 minutes after that I’d recovered my luggage, handed it back over to another airline and was sat in the considerably more pleasant than Zagreb departures lounge waiting for a flight into the unknown…
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After a very pleasant flight with Air Serbia and an exceptionally speedy journey through Belgrade airport and onto the shuttle bus it started to become very obvious that there wasn’t much to worry about as the Cyrillic was always accompanied by a Latin text version, and a lot of the time by a direct English translation.
A hefty hike up a steep hill with heavy luggage brought me to my hotel, and after checking in, and waiting the 60 minutes whilst they processed my passport to make me legally resident in the country as a tourist, I headed out into town to have a look around.
I headed up to the Belgrade Fortress which dominates the city to take in the views. I arrived around the same time as sunset which was amazing to watch as it disappeared behind the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers.
A long wander round the complex, and by the time I was heading back towards the park it’s located in it was getting quite dark.
I walked down the main pedestrianized street and found a nice restaurant to grab a light supper (two lots of airline food and snacking in departures at Dubrovnik had kind of killed my appetite for the day), before heading back to my hotel just as the evening thunder storm was starting, arriving back just as the first heavy drops were falling.
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Having completed the tour I walked back to the site of the St Sava Cathedral, the world’s largest Orthodox church, which like it’s counterpart in Barcelona the Sagrada Família is still being built nearly 100 years after the initial plans were put in place (though it did have a full 45 year hiatus in building between the outbreak of WWII and works starting again in 1985). Inside it is a stunning space that is impressive even without all the rich decoration that’s due to go in it.
I walked back towards the centre of the city, detouring to take in the long since completed (and now being refurbished) St Michaels church before wandering over to Republic square to have a look around and then a late lunch.
After lunch I wandered back over to the fortress area to have a longer look around in daylight, first taking advantage of one of the electric land trains for a ride around much of the park and fortress area.
Inside the fortress I stopped off at the Military museum before having a wander around the ramparts and a stop for a late afternoon coffee in a café on the walls.
Back over to the Serbian Parliament to pick up the other open-top sightseeing tour which was set to head off at 6pm. The first part of the route was much the same as the morning tour, but once it crossed the Sava River it went for a much longer tour around Novi Beograd.
Returning to the parliament building I wandered back down the main pedestrian street and stopped off for dinner before heading back to the hotel just as the first drops of what turned out to be a massive overnight storm were starting to fall.
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After the museum I had a bit of a damp wander, not particularly surprised at how much emptier the centre of Belgrade was on a damp day rather than a sunny one.
After wandering around the castle for a while the weather started to improve, and after a quick visit to the Cathedral it was pleasant enough to sit outside for lunch in the bizarrely titled ? café (originally called opposite the cathedral, but the cathedral authorities had objected to the name so they just decided to rebrand it as a question mark)
I had a very nice, and quite lengthy lunch in ? before heading off for a long wander into the afternoon sun, that very quickly turned back into drizzle, then heavy thundery downpour.
Through the careful use of shop awnings I managed to make my way to the centre of town only getting mildly soaked, and then sought out shelter in a café near Republic square thinking the weather would have to ease off soon.
Three hours, and two pints later, the rain finally died down to a light drizzle, so I headed back to the hotel to properly dry off. Having spent much of the afternoon and early evening snacking I didn’t really fancy dinner so instead I grabbed a quick bit to eat in a café round the corner from the hotel, getting back to my room just as the next heavy thunderstorm started up.
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My first stop was the exhibition in the Nebojsa Tower, located on the banks of the Sava river at the bottom of the castle hill, except the tower was closed for no apparent reason, so I had to make do with just having a wander round the outside and then head up through the various fortifications of the lower part of the fortress.
I stopped off at the small collection of churches about halfway up to have a look round and then wandered through the main part of the fortress over to the Roman Well.
A quick look round the well and then I headed down into town for some lunch.
Lunch completed I had a wander through the Skadarlija, the bohemian quarter of the city, though to be fair it mostly just resembled a large tourist trap.
By now it was time to start moving on, so I headed back to the hotel, picked up my luggage and headed down towards the airport bus back out to Belgrade airport and onto my next stop, and next country.
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Graeme, from Four Seasons Travel drove me into town, telling me quite a lot of details about the city, things to see and do and suggestions for places to eat (in that strange small world syndrome he’d grown up in Woking and had previously worked in Reigate before moving to Slovenia over a decade before)
Dropped off at my hotel I checked in and then headed out to do a bit of late night exploring.
It turned out that I’d arrived during the middle of the Ljubljana festival, kind of like Edinburgh but over a longer period on a smaller scale, and there were lots of music performers out in town which I spent quote a bit of time watching.
By the time I grabbed an ice-cream from a stall near the town hall it was already nearly midnight, so I headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep
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I spent much of the day up at the castle having a long wander round the various parts freely open to the public including the viewing terrace, chapel and penitentiary before taking in the paid for attractions such as the museum and the viewing tower.
After stopping for a second coffee of the day in the castle I had a wander down into the weird almost Bond-Villain like area beneath the castle courtyard to have a look around a couple of galleries based down there.
Just to see what it was like I took a quick ride on the funicular railway down and then back up the hill, before having a final wander round the castle complex.
I then caught the land train back down into town for a very late lunch and a bit of a wander around the city centre, during which I stopped off in the tourist information centre and booked myself onto a tour for the following day.
I headed over to the Cathedral to have a look around, but there was a service going on so I left it for now and went on a bit more of a walk round the city centre, before stopping off for dinner.
A lengthy, and very nice, dinner later I headed back to the hotel for an early night as I had to be up early the following morning for the tour.
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I was picked up by the tour guide just before 8 and after collecting the four other members of the party we headed North West out of the city along the deserted Sunday morning roads. We had a clear and smooth journey all the way up to Bled in the North West of the country and it’s imposing and spectacular lake.
We parked in the grounds of Tito’s former summer residence, now a very exclusive hotel, and joined up with another tour group to take one of the small wooden boats that ply the lake over to the island located just off shore. The island houses a church which has been a site for pilgrimage for centuries, but the real reason for going over was for the stunning views of the lake, castle and surrounding mountains that can be had from there.
As we were so early we were the first people over to the island so had the space to ourselves for a few minutes of peace and tranquillity, but looking out over the lake it was clear to see, that like a Viking army, hordes of tourists were rowing towards the island.
After a quick photo stop on the edge of the lake we drove round and up to the impressive Bled castle that is located on a rocky outcrop at the edge of the lake and had a quick tour round there, before driving back down into town for an early lunch lakeside.
Lunch over it was back in the mini-bus down the motorway, past Ljubljana and on down to the South Western corner of the country and the castles and caves of the Karst region. First stop was the castle at Predjama, built into a massive cave system, halfway up the side of a cliff.
From the castle we drove back into Postojna to visit the amazing caves that are located there through a torrential downpour. After the 90 minute tour of the cave system, which included a 4.5Km ride into the caves (that’s how large they are) on a small train, we emerged back into a gloriously sunny afternoon.
A relatively short drive back up the motorway and we were back in Ljubljana just after 6. After dropping my stuff off at the hotel I headed out for dinner, before, exhausted from a long day, returning to the hotel for an early night.
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After walking most of the route I headed back into the centre of town and had a look round the Cathedral before joining one of the numerous river cruises that sail up and down the city’s river taking in the views.
By the time I arrived back at the landing stage it was time to head back to the hotel, collect my things and head round to the railway station to catch the train over to the Italian Border.
The original plan was to catch the train all the way to Villa Opicina just over the border in Italy, and as far as the trains go these days, TrenItalia having abandoned all attempts to run anything approaching a helpful service a few years earlier. However, on arriving at the station it became clear that the journey was about to become significantly more complicated.
There were no trains running, and there hadn’t been for many months, due to extensive damage caused by severe winter storms so it was the most dreaded and English of phrases – Rail Replacement Bus Service.
The next problem was that the international tickets queue was full of people who weren’t fully understanding how they got to Villa Opicina, and with time counting down to the departure time of the replacement bus it was clear I wasn’t going to be able to get a ticket in time, so I opted for the alternative which was to get a ticket to the previous station – Sezana which is still in Slovenia and could be purchased from the self-service ticket machines and hope that I could pick up a taxi from the rank at the station there through to Trieste.
Given that the railway ride to Sezana and Villa Opicina is describe as very pretty it was a bit of a shame then that virtually the whole journey was a reapat of the run down the motorway that the tour had done the previous day.
Despite being the express bus making virtually none of the scheduled stops and bombing down the motorway we still ended up arriving into Sezana 30 minutes later than the train would have done. Adding to the problems there was no taxi rank as it was being used to run the rail replacement buses out of, so after a bit of a wander to try and find if there was a taxi rank I eventually had to ask the very nice receptionist in the station hotel to call a cab for me. Given she knew what I wanted as soon as I walked through the door, and had the taxi number on speed dial I can only assume that this has become a very regular occurrence for her.
And so for the first time on my travels public transport had failed and I crossed into Italy in the back of a taxi.
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Checked in I went out for a little wander around the centre of Trieste, stopping at a café in the main square for a pre-dinner drink before finding a stunning fish restaurant a few streets back.
Stuffed I gently staggered a bit more round the city centre before heading back to the hotel for a well earned rest.
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I stayed on the bus back up to the Cathedral and Castle and got off there to have a look around, firstly in the very bizarre Cathedral which was created by merging two neighbouring small churches into one single and architecturally mismatching singe building. The building also includes several bits of the former Roman fortress on the site, with quite large parts of the Bell tower, from the top of which I took in some good views over the city, being made up of clearly recycled chunks of masonry.
From the Cathedral I wandered over to the Castle and had a long look round the site, taking in the various museums and displays. By the time I’d finished in the castle it was already late afternoon, but the weather had improved considerably, so I caught the bus out to the Mirimar palace park and had a wander through there and back down onto the sea front.
I picked up the bus just over an hour later a couple of stops further on from where I’d left it and took it for its final tour of the evening round the city.
Back in the city centre I headed back to the hotel briefly to freshen up before heading out for dinner, this time over by the former canal in the city centre.
I dined at a canal side restaurant which was interesting as a very blowy but warm wind was causing a bit of chaos with the napkins, tablecloths and umbrellas – and at one restaurant on the opposite side of the canal the furniture as it sent a chair crashing into the water.
After dinner I had another stroll round the city centre, picking up a very nice ice-cream on the way, before heading back to the hotel
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I had a long walk along the ridge, but sadly the trees were a little too heavily laden with leaves and pine needles to be able to get a good view.
Back down in town I headed over to the station and caught the train up to the border town of Gorizia.
I wandered through town to the stunning castle and had a long look round that before heading back to the station.
I made it to the station with a few minutes to spare before the train back to Trieste, but none of the ticket machines were working and by the time I finally managed to get to the front of the queue for a ticket and get to the platform it was just in time to see the train pulling out.
With an hours wait I wandered over to a vending machine to get a drink, only to discover that having put the money in and had the drink drop into the tray the collection door was broken – partly because there were now half a dozen bottles waiting to be rescued.
Feeling a little less than impressed with TrenItalia I waited out the 55 minutes until the next train vowing never to use their services again.
Back in Trieste I went for a bit more of a wander through town, before grabbing dinner in a restaurant near where I had eaten the previous evening, before heading back to the hotel to start the packing process all over again.
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When I got to the airport I had a quick check with the ticket office to see if there was any chance of getting the second leg of my flight brought forward so I didn’t have to spend most of the day in transit, but it was to no avail as they said my ticket was unchangeable.
The airport only has a handful of flights a day, and mine was the last departure before a five hour siesta through the middle of the day, so everyone was very efficient in ensuring we were on the plane and taking off early.
A short flight later and we landed at Munich airport, where the plane spent about 15 minutes wandering around the airfield before finally finding a parking space.
And so began five entirely uneventful and utterly tedious hours in transit before the second leg of the flight out to Budapest departed.
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Having checked in I went for a bit of a wander up into the castle district and then down round Deak Ferenc Ter, including taking a ride on the Budapest big wheel (with an excellent commentary about sights you can see in Plymouth!)
I’d lost track of the time and by the time I’d finished wandering the metro had closed for the evening, so it was a slightly longer than expected walk back to the hotel and my well-earned bed.
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I took the full tour round once on each side to take in all the views, seeing quite a bit more of Budapest than I had previously seen.
After stopping for a late lunch I headed north out of town to the Roman remains at Aquincum and had a long wander round the site, which is quite extensive – made all the more reminiscent of other major Roman archaeological sites that I’ve looked round by the sun beating down and the temperatures really starting to get quite high.
I caught the train back into the city centre after finishing off looking round and then headed out for dinner, before heading back to Deak Ferenc Ter to pick up the night time Big Bus Tour of the city.
Making it back with still a few metro’s running I headed back to the hotel and another excellent nights sleep.
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I headed over to my hotel for the night and checked in before heading back out into town for a wander.
I headed up into the old town to visit the Museum of Broken Relationships and have a bit more of a wander round before heading back to the very nice restaurant I’d eaten at nearly a fortnight earlier for a final dinner on the trip, then back to bed for a good night’s sleep.
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Checked-out I caught the tram back over to the bus station to pick up the coach to the airport.
40 minutes before our scheduled departure time we got a gate number and 30 minutes later we were all boarded and ready to go. At which point the pilot told us the good news that due to a major storm currently battering the South East of England we were going to be held on the Tarmac at Zagreb for 90 minutes so that by the time we arrived we’d be landing in better weather.
True to his word, we sat there for about 80 minutes before they started up the engines and exactly 90 minutes late we pushed back and headed back towards the UK.
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I was going round friends for dinner, so I only had time to take a few photos and get changed before I headed out for the evening.
After dinner I caught a cab back to the hotel and straight to bed
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We had a long wander along the seafront before they needed to head off and I headed into town for a spot of lunch.
I was back at the hotel with time to spare for the main event of Airbourne for the day, the Red Arrows display. Due to the poor weather on the previous two days their display had been heavily cut back, but with crystal clear blue skies and the sun beating down they were able to do a very long and spectacular display – all of which I saw from the stunning view point of the hotels roof – one of the highest points in the town centre, and at times almost level with the jets as they tore past.
Late afternoon I headed over to my friend’s house and then we headed back out into town for the afternoon, spending quite a bit of the time being deafened by a modern fighter jet tearing across the sky.
I quickly popped back to the hotel to freshen up and get changed as the temperature was starting to drop and shorts were starting to be quite chilly.
I wandered back round my friend’s house for dinner before walking back along the seafront to the hotel and to bed.
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Back in town and with the cloud rolling in only a limited display from the Red Arrows, which I decided to stay on the open-top bus to view, and actually got some stunning views of the limited display as the bus went up over Beachy Head.
A quick lunch break in town and then down to the Redoubt fortress to have a look round the fortress and the museum, then a wander back along the seafront to the hotel to take in the last of the displays from the hotel.
After the end of the show I headed out for dinner and then it was back to the hotel to prepare for the fireworks finale to Airbourne, again seen from the stunning location of the hotel.
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After breakfast, and all packed, I checked out and walked briskly back to the station to pick up the train that turned from returning from a holiday to commuting to work.
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After a late dinner courtesy of the Marks and Spencer Simply Food I headed to bed with my alarm set for unpleasantly early and turned in for the night.
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We landed in Edinburgh pretty much on time and after a quick journey through the airport I found myself on the tram heading into town. This turned out to be a bad decision as it took nearly an hour to get to Waverley station, against the air bus that would have taken barely 30 minutes.
An hour later than I’d been hoping for, I was on the train and heading north towards Perth. The first part of the journey rammed sardine like into the small two car train that had most of the Hearts away supporters club heading to a match at Kirkcaldy.
I checked into the hotel, dropped off my stuff and then headed out into town to have a wander.
I had a long walk around town taking in the key sights, in fact spending so much time taking in the sights that by the time I reached the castle that houses the Blackwatch museum it had already closed for the evening.
I had a bit more of a wander round the town before grabbing an early dinner in a very nice Indian restaurant and then heading back to the hotel for a quick drink in the bar and then an early night to try and catch up on the sleep rudely lost in the morning.
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As I was up much earlier than planned I had a leisurely breakfast and was still able to head out of the hotel and catch the bus an hour earlier than I’d planned out of the city centre and over to the Palace of Scone.
The Palace was once an Abbey and it was here, on the sacred Stone of Destiny, that Scottish kings were proclaimed for centuries – up until Edward I stole the stone and spirited it away to England at the end of the 13th Century. Over the years use of the site has changed and today it’s the site of a spectacular 19th Century Scottish Georgina Gothic Palace that is still lived in by the Earls of Mansfield – though they have opened large parts of the grounds and the ground floor of the palace to the public.
I spent a long time wandering around both the palace and the grounds, including a quick journey through the star shaped maze.
Having exhausted Scone I headed back into town and had a bit more of a wander round the town centre, crossing over the Tay on the Tay Viaduct path that runs next to the railway tracks over the river, including a link from the middle down onto Moncreiffe Island. Over on the opposite bank is a sculpture trail that I followed back to the Old Bridge and then back into town.
Next to the bridge is the city museum and art gallery which I popped into to have a look round, but there wasn’t that long before closing time so I wasn’t able to see everything that they had on display.
I headed back to the hotel to freshen up and then out for dinner – using the rankings in Trip Advisor to pick what turned out to be an outstanding Nepalese restaurant.
Bloated from excellent food I waddled back to the hotel for a night-cap and an early night to give my stomach a chance to digest all the food.
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From the hotel I headed over to the Cathedral to have a look round there and then continued on over to the Black Watch museum and castle
After looking round the museum I took a long wander through the North Inch back to the riverside.
A quick stop for lunch and then it was back to the hotel to collect my luggage and head for the train back to Edinburgh for my flight back to London.
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About 10 minutes late, as a preceding train had been cancelled and ours was turned into a stopping service, we arrived in Broadstairs and I walked down the hill to the hotel.
After checking in and taking some photos of the stunning views from my room I headed out for a quick wander around town before stopping off for some dinner in a very nice Indian restaurant just opposite the hotel.
Then it was back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep
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I quickly found myself down on the beach, and with the tide out went for a bit of a walk along the fascinating coast. Wide sandy beaches and chalk cliffs with interesting caves and formations carved into them by the power of the sea make the walk so interesting that before I realised it I’d walked all the way into Ramsgate, making it to the centre of town just as the tide was starting to come back in again.
I hopped on a bus back to Broadstairs and grabbed an excellent lunch in the hotel.
I had intended on walking along the beach in the opposite direction, but it was still high tide so instead I went along the cliff tops, round past the North Foreland to the stunning Botany Bay with its chalk stacks.
As it was such a lovely afternoon, I continued on my walk and before long I was heading into the outskirts of Margate.
I picked up the bus in the centre of Margate and caught it round to Ramsgate again, to have a wander along a little bit of the cliffs above the harbour to take in the views. However, before long the sun started to set so I headed back to the town centre and picked up the bus back into Broadstairs and dinner.
After a short stroll along the prom I had a drink in the bar and then turned in for the night.
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I’d already booked myself onto a tour to look round the Ramsgate Tunnels at 2pm so after my town wander I headed over to the bus stop to pick up the bus into Ramsgate.
After an incredibly interesting tour of the tunnels I headed back into Broadstairs and stopped off at the hotel for a late lunch before picking up my bags and heading back to the station to start the journey home.
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In theory I could have left it till much later to head down to stay overnight, but it was a useful excuse to exit the building at 5pm.
Having checked into the hotel I went for an earlyish dinner and then headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep, something I hadn’t had for a number of nights, before a relatively early start the following morning.
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After a little glitch with the flight information- for a while the screens just displayed Go to Gate with no actual information as to which gate it was – everyone made it to the plane and five minutes before scheduled departure time the plane was already pushing back and heading towards Pisa.
Arriving a couple of minutes early ended up being a pain as there was no chance we were going to make the earlier bus into Florence, so instead just had to wait for the best part of 50 minutes for the next bus, which was then promptly 25 minutes late.
A quick hop from the station in Florence over to the hotel to check in, and then out into the city centre for an early evening wander, a quick pre-dinner drink in the main square and then a very nice dinner in a restaurant overlooking the Neptune fountain.
A lovely Italian Ice cream finished off the evening and then it was back to the hotel for another stunning night’s sleep.
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I caught the bus up to the Piazzalle Michelangelo overlooking the city centre to take in some of the stunning view on this beautiful morning, stopping off in a little café just below the square for a significantly more pleasant coffee than the hotel had provided.
I picked up the bus back on into town, which as it was a Saturday morning, got caught in some spectacular traffic, so by the time I got back to the central station it was midday.
As I only had about 90 minutes before I needed to pick up my luggage and head over to Siena I stopped off at a nice café near the Santa Maria Novella church for a light lunch, and after that headed back to the hotel to pick up bags and then wander onto the bus station.
A quick journey through the Tuscan countryside, along a really poorly maintained bit of Autostrada and just over an hour later we were pulling into the bus station in Siena.
I walked down the hill to the hotel and checked in, then headed out for a wander around the city centre taking in the Campo and the Duomo before stopping off for a pre-dinner drink in the Campo watching the last of the days wedding parties leave the town hall.
A short walk down hill to the market square located a very pleasant trattoria where I had a delicious dinner.
By the time I’d finished dinner I was so full, and it was getting quite late, that all I could do was gently waddle back up the hill to the hotel and turn in for the night.
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I had a long look round the Cathedral, the museum, view point, Crypt and Baptistery, thankfully reaching each area just ahead of the massed ranks of day trippers who had turned up shortly after I did.
After taking in all the sights of the Cathedral, and a quick stop for coffee near the baptistery I headed over towards the Basilica of San Dominico, the massive church that dominates the skyline behind the Cathedral and had a look around there, stumbling upon perhaps one of the more gruesome Catholic relics – the severed head of St Catherine of Siena.
A slightly disappointing lunch in a café near the basilica and then a wander over to the Medici fortress. In the end it was quite a long wander around the outside and then inside of the fortress as I turned left on reaching it and had to walk round three sides to get to the entrance that I would have reached in under five minutes if I’d have turned right instead. However the walk did show how impressive a structure this is.
Up on the battlement walls we took in the stunning views across the city, the only place where you can see the three main towers of the town hall, cathedral and San Dominico.
A quick pit stop on the campo and then it was into the Palazzo Publico to have a quick climb up the Torre del Mangia for the views and then back down and into the stunning town hall rooms that house the Museo Civico.
After a refresh in the hotel it was back out for another lovely dinner on the campo before heading back to the hotel for a well earned rest.
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The town of San Gimignano is a remarkable Tuscan hill town. Not just for the excellent wine that it produces, but also for it’s crazy skyline.
During the middle ages a craze for tower building broke out across the city with more and more increasingly larger towers being built in what is quite a small walled town centre.
Over time some of the towers have been demolished and the general heights have been reduced, but there’s still enough towers to create a very weird view as the bus approaches up from the valley below.
I had a long wander around the town centre before stopping for lunch in a nice restaurant just away from the central square.
The town is quite small, and today is a bit of a tourist trap, with many day tours from Florence doing San Gimignano as a late afternoon stop on the way back from a day in Siena, so with the numbers of raised umbrellas, flowers and other implements to indicate different groups suddenly shooting up I decided to head back to the bus stop and return to Siena.
Back in Siena with about an hour of daylight left I had a pleasant pre-dinner drink on the Campo before heading down slightly behind the Palazzo Publico to an amazing little restaurant down on the market square for the best meal of the trip.
Sated, and staggering slightly under the weight of food it was back to the hotel to allow the digestion process some time.
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A quick wander through town took us down to the Fontebranda, the medieval water supply of the city.
Wandering back up into the city centre I stopped off at the sanctuary of St Catherine to have a quick look round and then headed over to the Santa Maria della Scala to have a look around their exhibits.
I wasn’t expecting much from the Santa Maria della Scala, but was amazed by the size of the complex once you got down to the lower levels, with a massive archaeological museum housed in tunnels carved out underneath the Duomo.
Significantly later than I was originally expecting I left the complex and headed back down onto the Campo for a final lunch, then it was time to head back to the hotel and pick up bags.
I decided to get a taxi back up the hill to the train station, and was glad we did as the station was quite a bit further out of town than it looked on the map.
Just over two hours later and nearly a minute early our second train of the day pulled into Pisa Centrale station, this unfortunately meant that I had significantly longer to wait at Pisa Airport than I was expecting as I’d assumed at least one connection would fail or one train would be cancelled.
Thankfully, bag drop was open early so I was able to checkin and head through to the departures lounge and the journey home.
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I headed up to the town of Singleton to visit the Weald and Downland open air museum.
I had a long wander round the museum, taking in most of the buildings located round the site.
From Singleton I headed back into Chichester and had a bit more of a wander round the city centre, taking in the remainder of the former city walls.
Then it was back to the hotel to pick up my bags and headed back home.
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After checking-in and a quick Marks and Spencer dinner I turned in early.
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A smooth journey through the airport and everyone was on the plane with a good 10 minutes to spare before we were due to push back. 20 minutes later we were still sat there as the pilot informed us of a technical problem with the plane, which took another 20 minutes to fix. That should have been it and on our way, but due to the inefficiencies of the ground-handling agent we had to wait nearly an hour before we were finally pushed back and on our way.
Having arrived at Schiphol and walked the miles from the plane to the baggage reclaim hall and then the station it was only to be confronted with the very odd sight of the usually efficient Dutch railway system in meltdown.
Weekend engineering works (something I fear the British subsidiary Abellio has infected the parent company with) meant there were no direct trains from the airport into the centre of Amsterdam, and consequently all other trains were very busy and slightly chaotic, but things had been made much worse by an “overhead line problem in the Delft area”, which had wiped out services, with many either cancelled or running up to 90 minutes late.
Eventually, by changing trains in Utrecht, I finally made it Eindhoven nearly 4 hours later than planned, but at least without having to worry about storing my luggage before I was able to checkin to the hotel as by now checkin was open.
After dropping my stuff off I went for a long wander around the city centre, stopping off for a visit to the stunning Van Abbemuseum.
After the gallery I continued having a wander around town, before heading to a restaurant for an early dinner having just realised that I hadn’t actually eaten since a British Airways breakfast at around 9am.
Dinner finished I went for a bit more of a wander before heading back to the hotel for a quick drink in the bar and then bed.
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As it had been a late breakfast, by the time I reached Den Bosch it was already early afternoon, so after a quick cup of coffee in a café by the canals in the city centre I went for a long wander round the city.
I stopped off at the Cathedral and had a look round, before heading a short distance further on to the former church that has now been converted into a museum to the town’s most famous painter son – Harmonious Bosch.
The museum is very well presented, making use of the tower of the former church to offer stunning views over the city and an introduction to both the town and the man.
In the end I spent so long in the museum that I was in danger of having to be kicked out at closing time.
I headed back to the market square and decided to have dinner here, before heading back to the station to get a later train back to Eindhoven and a final night cap before turning in.
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After breakfast I checked out and headed back to the station and on into Amsterdam, where I left my bags in the luggage lockers at Centraal station before heading out into the city
The weather forecast for the day wasn’t particularly good, which meant that the open-top tour buses all had their tops on, which appeared to be the best way of spending a couple of hours looking round the city in the dry.
I did two full circuits of the tour, during which the skies absolutely opened – hence staying on to go round a second time.
By the time I got back to Centraal station for the second time the skies were down to a light drizzle, and my time to head to the airport was up, so I collected my luggage and headed out to Schiphol.
Having checked in I watched as over the next hour or so the flight did Southern Railways trick of a creeping delay – getting two or three minutes later every 2-3 minutes, so it’s always an hour away.
Eventually, nearly 90 minutes late we boarded to be told that the delay had been caused by a technical fault on the plane, which given it was exactly the same plane I’d flown out on on Saturday didn’t really fill me with much confidence.
Just over an hour later, and with no further technical problems, we touched back down in Gatwick, where having messed up the start of the journey, and the ends of several previous journeys, Swissport for once redeemed themselves slightly by actually having our bags on the baggage belt as we came through Immigration.
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Despite the very late breakfast and leaving it until the last minutes to check out I was still in Preston long before the check-in time at the hotel, but they very kindly looked after my luggage for me so that I could have a wander round town unencumbered.
I had a long meander round the centre of Preston taking in the Minster and then headed down to the park that borders the River Ribble.
By the time I’d finished wandering it was long past the check-in time so I headed back to the hotel, picked up my bag, checked in and then headed out for dinner and a bit more of a wander.
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The last time I’d attempted to visit Morecambe the weather had taken a distinct turn for the worse, and in the face of a torrential downpour and biting wind I’d gone about 100 yards from the station before abandoning the attempt and heading back to the station.
Thankfully today the weather was considerably more benign with just a grey haze covering the horizon and reducing the visibility across the bay.
I had a long wander along the seafront taking in the pier and the recently restored Midland Hotel before heading back towards the centre and the statue of the town’s most famous son.
Unfortunately a couple of weeks earlier there had been an attempt to steal the statue of Eric Morecambe, so to protect the now damaged statue the local council had removed it for repairs, instead there was just a hole surrounded by fencing.
After a quick pit stop in a sea front café for a spot of lunch I headed back towards the station to pick up the train for a journey out into the countryside on the train.
I took the train out across the Lancashire countryside and into the Yorkshire Dales through the considerably quieter Clapham than its London namesake and down to Long Preston, just south of Settle.
I had a quick look at the timetables to see if it was possible to go back a different way either by Leeds or Carlisle, but in both cases, as it was a Sunday afternoon, there would have been a very long wait somewhere, so instead I retraced my steps back across the Dales to Lancaster and then back down to Preston.
Despite having not done very much all day, other than a bit of wandering along the seafront in Morecambe and a lot of sitting down staring out of the window, I was feeling really tired, so I had dinner in the hotel before turning in for an early night.
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I had a good look round the castle keep, which didn’t take very long as it really is quite tiny, and then a look around the attached museum that tells the history of the town and local area, including the infamous Pendal Witches (the Pendal Hill being one of the most obvious natural feature on the landscape)
I caught the bus back into Preston and wandered over to the city museum and gallery and spent quite a bit of the afternoon having a look round their exhibitions.
After a quick pit stop for a very late lunch I meandered back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and then start the journey back south.
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It was a quick a painless journey across London to Euston and then, after a short wait, onto the train to Scotland.
A smooth if slightly tedious four and a half hour journey later and we finally pulled into Glasgow Central station.
After checking in to the hotel and dropping off bags we headed out into the city. We walked up from George Square to the Cathedral and had a look around there before heading into the Necropolis to have a look around.
The Necropolis is already a slightly strange place made all the weirder by wandering around it in the early dusk of a late November’s evening.
Back from the Necropolis to the hotel to dry off from the drizzly mist that had been enveloping Glasgow before heading back out for dinner at an Italian near the hotel.
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We took it round most of the circuit out to the Kelvingrove museum and art gallery which we had a long look around.
After stopping for lunch at the museum we walked up through the park to the university to have a look around the Hunterian museum and art gallery. By the time we’d looked round the gallery we were too late to make the last tour of the attached Mackintosh house for the day so we’d have to come back and do that.
We had a wander back down the hill to pick up the sightseeing bus from slightly further back down the route and finished off the circuit back past the university and Kelvingrove and into town.
After a stop at the hotel to freshen up it was out into town for dinner at a very pleasant tapas bar just round the corner from the hotel.
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We caught it round to the recently opened Riverside museum and spent much of the morning looking round the museum and the Glasgow Tall ship moored up outside.
Rather than taking the tour bus and having an hours journey back into the city centre we picked up the electric city bus back to George Square and went for lunch.
After a bit of a wander round the city centre we hopped on the subway and out to the northern part of the city centre to visit the botanical gardens.
We just about managed to see all of the gardens, and the greenhouses before they closed for the evening. Back outside the gardens we picked up the penultimate tour bus of the night back round to George square.
Dinner was in a different Italian restaurant from the first night, and then back to the hotel for an early night.
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After the Mackintosh house it was back across town and out to the People’s Palace in Glasgow Green to have a look round the Winter Gardens and the exhibition in the palace itself of Glasgow’s history.
Back into town and a late lunch in the city centre before wandering over, in what was the start of the afternoons forecast drizzle, to the Modern art Gallery for a visit.
The Modern Art Gallery finished it was time to head back to the hotel to pick up our bags, wander back over to Central Station and start the long train journey back south to London.
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From the hotel I wandered down into the old town and had a walk through the commercial centre of the locals bit of Cannes – Cheese shops, a Carrefour, fishmongers not a single sign of bling anywhere. I reached the Hôtel de Ville and then decided that I was feeling up to hiking up the side of the hill that the castle was on to take in the views over the city at sunset.
The castle itself was closed for the evening, but the views over the bay and to the Esterel Massif bathed in the orange glow of the setting sun were spectacular. What was equally spectacular were the number of what were clearly eye-wateringly expensive gin palaces moored up in the harbour.
From the castle I wandered back down into town and had a walk along the harbour side taking in the, at times, ridiculous yachts (though in some cases small cruise ship may have been a better name for the craft).
Beyond the harbour I found myself in the non-residents end of Cannes, with the five star hotels, Gucci and Louis Vuitton shops and jewellers who probably charge you just to look at the stuff you could never afford. Like the floating gin palaces it was all a bit tacky and expensively cheap.
Heading back into the sensible end of town I found a nice restaurant down a side street and had a very nice dinner with an eclectic mix of Corsican, Southern French and Northern Italian styles, all washed down with an exceptionally pleasant (but it turned out very strong) local red wine.
Stuffed, sated, and slightly sloshed, I wandered back from the restaurant to the hotel and turned in for the night.
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The previous evening I’d seen that the centre that hosts the annual Cannes Film Festival was this evening hosting the TF1 Music Awards, and consequently the centre of Cannes was going to be closed down from mid-afternoon onwards. With this in mind and a generally good weather forecast I decided to head down to the harbour and catch the ferry across to one of les Îles de Lérins, four small islands located about half a mile off the coast of Cannes.
The largest of these and the one with most attractions and therefore the most regular ferry service is Île Sainte-Marguerite so that’s where I headed to.
Having arrived on the island, as one of only five people on the boat, the first stop, after a brisk hike up the hill from the harbour, was the fort. This is an impressive building, clearly visible from Cannes, and amongst its many other uses it’s housed a prison that as its star attraction was home to the Man in the Iron Mask for 11 years prior to his final transfer to the Bastille in Paris.
I had a good wander round the fort including the excellent museum and the prison, taking advantage of the whole site being free to get into, rather than the normal €6.
From the fort I then followed the coastal path that makes its way around the edge of the island, a route of around 8Km. I stopped of lots of times on the way round to take photos and to step off the path to visit a number of sites located nearby including WWII block houses and Napoleonic cannonball ovens.
By the time I finally made it back to the harbour it was approaching 4pm and I had just enough time to make use of the only other island facilities that were open (the two restaurants and two snack bars all being closed for the winter), before catching the ferry back across to Cannes.
Including wandering around the fortress and the detours of the path to look at other sites I think I ended up walking about 10Km, which I hadn’t really noticed until I’d been sat down on the boat for 15 minutes and went to stand up to find that my whole body had stiffened up.
Staggering gently from stiff limbs I wandered back from the harbour into town to find a café for a quick cup of coffee, at which point I suddenly realised how hungry I was having not eaten anything since breakfast. A quick wander through the neighbouring Christmas market soon resolved that in the form of a delicious Crêpe and the stiff limbs were resolved through the medicinal use of Vin Chaud.
I had a little wander through town before finding another very nice restaurant just back from the harbour side and had another delicious dinner, this time though with a much less potent but very pleasant white wine. Stuffed, but not sloshed this time I headed back to the hotel to the comfort of my bed to let my limbs de-stiffen naturally.
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First stop of the morning was down onto the seafront to pick up the number 8 bus – rather grandly titled the Palm Imperial. It’s one of the normal town bus services, but because it runs along the seafront it’s operated, mostly, by open-top double-deckers so it was a good way to take in the sights on a bargain price sightseeing tour.
After heading out to the end of the route at Palm Bay and taking in the sights there over towards the islands I hopped on the next bus back into town and went in hunt of lunch.
A very pleasant, if slightly lengthy, lunch later and I staggered out of the restaurant and wandered my way up the hill back to the castle to have a look around the museum and the views from the tower.
As with the previous day at the Fort for some reason that wasn’t being explained the museum and observation tower were free for the day.
I had a long look around the museum and then climbed the 109 steps to the top of the tower to take in the views over the city.
Having exhausted the museum and the view point I wandered back into town and had a bit of a walk along the sea front before it was time to head back to the hotel, collect my stuff and make my way back to Nice airport and my flight home, hoping that all the problems that had been caused by the air traffic control failure on the Friday afternoon had been resolved.
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Thankfully, it turned out to be a dragging kind of morning so I was able to clear my desk, power down my PC and meander out of the building the moment my annual leave kicked in and make a break for the airport.
A slightly fraught journey across town, with every connection just failing and every traffic light appearing to be red got me to the airport with just 90 minutes before departure. Not good when the queues for security were approaching an hour. Thankfully I was able to go through the FastTrack route and skipped at least 50 minutes off the queue.
The plane left on time and it was an uneventful flight to Munich, but landing into some un-forecast drizzle suggested that the weather wasn’t looking good.
A quick journey through the airport, albeit with my bag being one of the last ones off the carousel, and down onto the S-Bahn, this time however the connection working with the train leaving a minute or so later.
I got off the S-Bahn at the Ostbahnhof and picked up the U-Bahn out to Neuperlach Zentrum to change onto the bus, by now the drizzle was down to a heavy downpour so I leapt on the first 197 bus I saw, just outside the station, without first checking whether it was a clockwise (Innenring) or anti-clockwise (Außenring) service. It turned out to be an Innenring service that took nearly 20 minutes to get round to the hotel, rather than the 5 the Außenring service would have taken.
However, by the time I got to the bus stop for the hotel the rain was back down to just a mild drizzle, so I was able to get over to the hotel in relative dryness and check-in.
By now it was nearly 9pm and I decided just to grab a quick bit to eat, and a drink in the bar before turning in for the night.
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I headed for the city centre to the Marienplatz and arrived just in time to take in the midday performance of the town hall tower clock.
I had a long wander around the Christmas market in the Marienplatz and surrounding streets before hopping onto the U-Bahn out to Theresienwiese, the site of the Oktoberfest and quite a substantial Christmas market.
I spent quite a bit of time at that Christmas Market, but was amazed that despite its size it was still dwarfed by the part of the site that isn’t in use, with the vast footprints of the where the beerhalls are placed during Oktoberfest quite difficult to comprehend, even for someone who has attended the annual booze-up.
Having taken in the statue of Bavaria located off of the edge of the grounds I headed back into town and did a bit more wandering around taking in the various Christmas markets and just meandering around the centre of Munich, taking the opportunity to top-up my still full stomach with the odd Bratwurst and Glühwein.
Eventually, slightly knackered from all the walking, I headed back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.
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I headed into town and over to the site of the Bavarian State Painting Collections which is divided over a number of galleries, four located next to each other covering the main sweep of the Collection.
First stop was the Alte Pinakothek which houses the pre-18th century art, most of it being religious art from a number of old masters. The gallery itself was in the process of being renovated, so a large part was closed which meant that I’d zipped round the gallery in quite a quick time.
Next, across the road from the Alte Pinakothek the Neue Pinakothek houses Art from the 18th and 19th century, again lots of famous painters including a few Van Gogh’s, Cezanne’s and Monet’s. There was an excellent exhibition of late mid-19th century paintings and late 19th century photos of Venice that really helped to show how little that city has changed over the last 150 years or so.
From the Neue Pinakothek it’s a short walk back past the Alte and across the other road it faces to the Pinakothek der Moderne, the collection of Modern art and design. This included a good collection of works by Picasso and Miro as well as lots of exhibits on modern design. The building itself was incredibly interesting built round a central rotunda offering wide sweeping views across all the galleries.
After a very late lunch in the café in the Modern art gallery I headed across the road to the final gallery of the day the Museum Brandhorst which houses the contemporary art including works by Warhol, Cy Twombly and even Damien Hurst. I don’t know if it was being galleried out, or if it’s a final realisation that I just don’t get contemporary art, but I was round and out in less than 30 minutes.
I wandered back towards the centre of town, stopping off at the Königsplatz to take in the stunning sky bathed red by the shortest days setting sun, and the monumental buildings of the Propyläen, Glyptothek and Classical Art museum.
Back in town I headed over to Sendlinger Tor to the Christmas market there to do a bit of Christmas shopping and to have a decidedly unhealthy dinner of Bratwurst and Glühwein before heading back to the hotel to rest my museum feet.
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Thankfully you can always count on either a botanical garden or a zoo and Munich had both, so I decided my first stop of the morning would be the Botanical Garden over to the western side of the city, and after that I’d head to the zoo.
After a look around the glasshouses I spent a good hour or so wandering round the gardens, most of which appeared to be under fir tree branches to protect them from the Munich winter, including bizarrely their alpine rock garden!
The gardens back onto the Scholß Nymphenburg so I took the tram one stop up the line to the top end of the palace grounds and walked back through them towards the palace itself.
I was quite surprised to find that the palace was actually open for visitors so I had a look round on the audio-guided tour before heading over to the café in the former palm house behind the palace for a spot of late lunch.
By the time I’d finished in the palace gardens and grounds it was too late to make it to the zoo, which was probably fortunate as the public transport system appeared to be in a bit of a melt-down with trams bunching up together and then, according to the tram stop displays, massive gaps between them.
I hopped on the first tram that was heading back towards the city centre, which turned out not to actually go anywhere near the centre of the city, but did connect into an U-Bahn line so I was able to head back down into town from there.
I had a bit more of a wander round the Christmas markets to pick up the last couple of things and dinner in a nice restaurant close to the town hall before heading back to the hotel to pack my bags and check-in for tomorrows flight.
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First stop of the morning was the Glyptothek a museum housing a fine collection of Greek and Roman statues, marbles and busts. There is quite a lot on display, including one hall which is almost completely filled with Roman Portrait busts, which when you first enter looks a little creepy.
I headed back in to town walking back via the Old Botanical Gardens, which just appears to be a city centre park with a very large fountain (and a very large bierhaus) and not much else.
I hopped on the U-Bahn back out to Theresienwiese to have another look around that Christmas market, and also to get a spot of lunch.
With quite a bit of time to fill, and not much to do, I hopped on the tram out to the suburb of Grünwald which is located on the banks of the Isar River and has an impressive castle dominating the high ground over the river. Sadly, by the time I arrived there was insufficient time to see the castle, so after a quick couple of shots from the stunning bridge across the river I headed back into town and down to the Odeonplatz to have a bit of a wander round the Residenz grounds before heading back over to the Rathaus for a final Bratwurst and Mulled wine of the trip.
Sated with sausage I headed back over to Ostbahnhof to pick up my luggage and headed out to the airport to start the journey home.
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I had a wander around the city centre, taking in the Market Cross and part of the City Walls before heading over to the relatively new Novium museum based around the excavation of a Roman bathhouse just behind the cathedral.
Having looked round the museum I headed over the road to the Cathedral to have a look around that.
From the Cathedral I headed into a café for a very late lunch before wandering back to the hotel to freshen up before meeting an old friend for dinner.
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I walked down from the station and had a long look round the large Roman fort which dwarfs the impressive Norman castle that occupies one small corner.
After a look around the castle, and a wander around the edge of the site, I headed back to the station to catch the train back towards Chichester, getting off a stop early at Fishbourne.
Fishbourne is home to the second Roman site for the day, the impressive Roman Palace and its famous mosaics.
I had a long look around the site, extended by the spectacular downpour that passed through just as I was about to look round the gardens.
With the downpour meaning I’d missed the hourly train back into Chichester, and with the skies clearing, I walked the mile and a half back into the city for dinner.
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Southern did their best to try and stop me from having to worry as the trains were in a particularly awful state this morning, with the one I eventually caught running more than 10 minutes late and then terminating at Selhurst so it could be sent into the depot to be mended due to the state it was in.
Eventually, through blind luck mostly, I made it to Gatwick Airport, having taken nearly 90 minutes to do a journey that should have taken less than 30.
Thankfully, it was a very smooth journey through the airport, onto the plane and a bang on time departure.
Arriving at Malta airport it was another exceptionally smooth journey, so smooth in fact that rather than having a 50 minute wait for the bus I was able to catch the one I assumed I would miss and with a quick transfer at Cirkewwa onto the ferry and I found myself arriving at the hotel in Mgarr 90 minutes earlier than I was expecting.
Having spent most of the day travelling, I had a very quick sightsee of the town from the balcony of my hotel room before turning in for the night.
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Having had a large breakfast I headed out of the hotel and down to the harbour to pick up the bus. I was in two minds as to whether to head straight into Rabat, the island capital, or to head out up to the coast as buses were due to both locations within minutes of each other. The decision was made for me by the arrival of a full ferry load of tourists from Malta who were all queue barging to get on the Rabat bus so instead of having to stand for 20 minutes in a sardine tin I opted for a seat on the bus heading up to Marsalforn.
I was very glad I did as the journey up through the middle of Gozo was pretty impressive from the hill top towns to the views over the coast. Marsalforn itself was a bit of a pity as it’s been heavily built up for the tourism industry with a large number of big hotels surrounding the harbour, but with the harbour itself and the stunning cliffs rising immediately behind the town it was still quite a nice place to wander around for a little while.
From Marsalforn I caught the bus the 15 minutes or so into Rabat and changed there onto another bus out to the National Shrine Basilica at Ta’ Pinu to have a look round that.
After looking round the Basilica I headed back to the main road and picked up the bus down to the west coast of the island at Dwejra. The natural scenery here is stunning, with the limestone having been carved away by the sea into caves, some of which have collapsed to form an archway and an impressive tunnel through the cliffs that has created an inland sea. It was from here that I boarded a short boat trip that went through the tunnel, into some of the caves and past the Azure Window arch.
I stopped for some lunch in a restaurant with stunning views over the inland sea, and after refuelling I headed up to the small fort building on the headland to take in the stunning views.
I caught the bus back into Rabat and having disembarked promptly got back on again as the bus was changing to one going back to Mgarr.
Back at the hotel I watched the end of a stunning sunset from my rooms balcony before heading down for dinner in the hotel restaurant.
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The bus took a long route around the island by first heading up into the hills behind the harbour and the islands second city of Nadur before heading down to the North coast at Ramla bay. Backtracking through Nadur it then visited a craft food display in Xewkija before heading up to the temples in Xaghra and the site of Calypso’s Cave where there was a short photo stop.
Back on the bus we headed over to Marsalforn before reaching Rabat and then heading out to the Basilica at Ta’ Pinu and then down to the Azure Window at Dwejra. Skirting round the edge of Rabat the bus then went down to the south harbour town of Xlendi before heading back into Rabat and then back down the main road to Mgarr.
After a quick pause for a bottle of orange juice and a chocholate bar I was back on the bus to take in the stunning views from the other side as I caught it back round to it’s first stop in Rabat.
I was just in time to join a late running land train tour round the edge of the Citadella and then once that was completed I headed up into the Citadella to have a look around.
When I’d visited in 2007 the site was looking a little forlorn and in need of some TLC. We’ll it’s certainly receiving it at the moment as the site was undergoing major renovations that aren’t due to finish until 2017. Unfortunately it did mean that much of the site wasn’t able to be visited.
After looking round what was open of the Citadella I headed back down to the bus station and picked the bus back up to continue the tour on down to Xlendi where I disembarked to have a look round this small harbour town. I had originally intended on just spending around 35 minutes looking round so that I would be able to catch the next (and last) tour bus back to Mgarr, but in the end there was quite a bit to see, with the cliff walk to a cave and the views of the harbour taking quite some time, that I’d long since missed the last tour bus and so I decided that I might as well have dinner in one of the nice looking restaurants near the harbour.
Stuffed to the gills from dinner I eventually staggered back to the bus stop and caught the bus back into Rabat thinking that I wouldn’t have very long to wait for a connection back to Mgarr. Unfortunately I’d managed to time my arrival in Rabat with the point in the timetable where there is a missing bus (to coincide with the ferries becoming less frequent), so instead of there being one there waiting for me I had a 45 minute wait.
Eventually the bus arrived and I headed back to the hotel, a quick drink in the bar and then turned in for the night.
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After a long time looking round the ruins of this 5,600 year old temple I headed over the road to the other key sight in the town the Ta’ Kola windmill to have a look round there, then a quick visit to the nearby Ninu’s cave, located beneath someone’s house.
I arrived back at the bus stop just in time to catch the bus down into Rabat and changed there onto another bus out to Ramla Bay where I went for a long wander along the beautiful red sands.
Then it was back on the bus towards Mgarr, getting off in the town in the hills above to have a quick look round and then over to Fort Chambray to have a view of the small amount of Roman fort still remaining and to take in the view of the harbour.
By now it was starting to get late so I wandered down the hill into Mgarr and over to the hotel to pick up my luggage then a quick walk back down to the harbour got me to the ferry just in time to make the 15:45 departure.
Back in Cirkewwa it was a short wait for the bus that then took me back all the way to the Airport, even if it did mean getting frequent scares from the Maltese Sunday drivers.
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After an initial delay due to another passenger kicking off about the location of their seat we eventually were all boarded and got away for a smooth flight to Athens.
Having landed it was an exceptionally quick journey through the airport and less than 30 minutes after landing I was on a bus into the centre of Athens.
From Syntagma square I caught the metro out to the hotel and checked in.
Dumping my stuff in the room I headed back into the city centre and wandered down to the bottom of the Acropolis hill before realising that it was actually quite late with the two hour time difference, so I grabbed dinner in a restaurant overlooking the acropolis.
After dinner I walked up the hill to the entrance to the Acropolis site to take some photos before heading back down the hill to get the metro back to the hotel and heading to bed.
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First stop was naturally the acropolis, which I approached from the South slope, coming up through the many ruins located there. I had a long wander round the top of the acropolis site taking in the buildings and the stunning views over the city.
On leaving the Acropolis site I found myself by Areopagus hill from the top of which there are excellent views over both the ruins of the Ancient Greek market place (Agora) and the Acropolis itself.
Having taken in the views I descended down the edge of the hill and stopped for a late, but very large lunch, in a restaurant on the pedestrianized road that circuits the Acropolis site.
I had a bit of a wander through the flea market area of the city and back towards Syntagma square stopping off to have a quick look round the Cathedral, which was sadly mostly covered in scaffolding.
I headed back through the narrow lanes of the Plaka to the Acropolis Museum to have a look around that.
I spent a long time looking round the stunning museum, only opened just over a year ago, and well deserving of having all the missing bits of the Acropolis returned to it.
Having looked round the museum I headed back towards Syntagma square and picked up one of the land train tours for a quick journey round the heart of the city before heading over to Monastiraki for a bit more of a wander and then dinner.
Sated and exhausted I hopped on the metro back to the hotel and, having double checked my alarm, to bed.
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I did two full circuits, once on each side, taking in the views before returning to Syntagma square just in time to take in the spectacular changing of the guard ceremony.
From Syntagma I wandered through the National Gardens and then up through the more exclusive parts of the city to the funicular railway to take me to the top of Lykavitós Hill, the highest point in the city and stunning views over the Greek Capital and most of its ancient sights.
Not only are there stunning views at the top of the hill, there’s also a perfectly located restaurant serving excellent food, so I decided to stop for a late lunch up here, with the Acropolis and Temple of Olympian Zeus down below me forming my backdrop to another stunning, and massive, Greek salad.
Stuffed, and waddling slightly, I took the funicular back down the hill into the city centre and went for a bit more of a wander around the posh end of town, before heading back to the hotel to freshen up.
Refreshed, and starting to feel like there might just be some space for dinner inside me I caught the metro over towards the area around the Ancient Agora and found a very nice restaurant with stunning views of both the Agora and the Parthenon for dinner.
Stuffed for the third time in less than 12 hours I waddled back to the metro station and headed back to the hotel.
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Having looked round both of them I walked the short distance over to the Panathenaic stadium to have a look around that (and to walk on the same track that both the Ancient and first modern Olympians used)
From the stadium I hopped on the open-top bus round to the Roman Agora and had a look round the ruins of the Roman market area, before wandering over to the remains of the once massive Hadrian’s Library, built by Emperor Hadrian (he of wall fame).
Just down from the ruins of the library and the Roman Agora is the much older Ancient Greek Agora which covers a much larger space and has significantly more in it, including the reconstruction of one of the Stoa covered market halls, and the stunning Temple of Hephaestus.
By now I was starting to feel the effects of walking through too many archaeological sites, so I grabbed a late lunch near the Ancient Agora and then wandered back through the Flea market area to pick up the open-top bus up to the Acropolis.
From the Acropolis stop it was a short walk up the neighbouring Filopappou Hill to the small caves that claim to be the prison where Socrates was held, and then a slightly stiffer climb up to the top of the hill and the spectacular views over Athens, the port and of course the Acropolis.
I wandered back down the hill into town to pick up the last open-top tour bus of the night and did the last circuit covered by my two day ticket.
By the time the bus got back to Syntagma square it was starting to get quite cold so I headed back to the hotel to change into slightly warmer clothing and then headed back out for dinner near the Acropolis before heading back past Hadrian’s arch at night to take some views of the Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus at night
On my way back to the metro station to catch the train back to the hotel I stopped to have a look at the remains of a Roman bath house, uncovered when they were building the Metro line in the early part of the 21st century.
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I wandered over to the Kerameikos area to the Ancient Greek cemetery along with its stunning museum.
I spent a long time looking round the site, and by the time I left there wasn’t really much time left to look at any of the museums which had been my plan for the late morning/early afternoon.
Instead I found a nice restaurant and had one last large lunch before heading back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and then start my journey back to the Airport and the UK.
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I made a quick detour to grab some dinner from the Marks and Spencer in the arrivals hall before checking in and heading to my room.
After dinner in my room I turned in for an early night ready for a very early start.
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With Heathrow shrouded in a light mist and still cloaked in darkness I made my way through the eerily quiet airport, the deserted security area and eventually onto the shuttle train out to the satellite terminal where my flight was leaving from.
Pretty much on time we took off with the sun only just rising behind us for an uneventful flight to Madrid. From the airport it was a relatively quick hop into the city centre to get to Atocha for the early afternoon train towards Barcelona and the French border.
I picked up the bus into the city centre and then walked the short distance to the hotel to check-in and then head out into the narrow lanes of the old town to have a wander.
First stop was the site of the spectacular Roman Theatre and then onto the Plaza del Pilar, the heart of the historic centre with the Basilica church and the Cathedral dominating the long plaza.
I had a look round the enormous basilica, a site of pilgrimage even to today, and then took the lift up one of the towers for the views out over the Basilica, the river and the wider city.
Back down from the tower I had a bit more of a wander round the city centre taking in some more of the city’s Roman remains before finding myself by the medieval stone bridge around sunset so I was able to get some stunning photos of the Basilica with the sun setting behind it.
I headed back to the hotel to freshen up, and to kill some time before any restaurants were open. Eventually my stomach forced me out of the hotel just before 9pm when I managed to find a very nice tapas bar about half way to the cathedral.
Stuffed from most of Aragon’s cheese and meat output for the year I headed back to the hotel for a good nights sleep, and a lie-in to make up for the early wake up.
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From the hotel I headed out into town to take in some of the key sights. First up was a long visit to and wander round the Roman Theatre and then a quick look round the Roman Bath.
I headed back to the main square to have a look round the remains of the Forum, but it was closed – as it would be for the whole trip – due to technical problems. Instead I headed into the neighbouring cathedral to have a look around including its tapestry museum.
After the cathedral I was just in time to take the last presentation (by myself so they ran it in English for me) at the Puerto Fluvial, the former Roman river gate, which helped cement the city as an important trading site in Roman Iberia.
By now it was just gone 2pm which I’d managed to find out from reading the guide book was when most Zaragozans have their main meal of the day, so in an attempt to blend in with the locals I found a very nice restaurant and had a very large and very nice lunch.
Stuffed from lunch, and with 30 minutes to go until the museums reopened I decided to take the time to wander along the riverside down the kilometre or so to the Aljafería Palace.
The palace has served as a Moorish palace; a home to the Spanish kings and queens; the local base for the Spanish Inquisition and today the home of the parliament of the autonomous commune of Aragon. When the parliament isn’t sitting it’s the site of an impressive museum and I spent a long time wandering round the strange mix of Moorish and Spanish architecture.
From the palace I caught the bus back over to the hotel to freshen up and to wait for dinner, which thankfully this time I didn’t have to worry too much about being late given the size of the lunch I’d had.
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I left the hotel and headed out to the Plaza del Pilar to pick up the double-deck hop-on-hop-off tour bus. This was the first day of the season that the service was due to operate so I was a bit dubious as to whether it would run, but it did, though it took slightly longer than timetabled as in a number of places around the Expo site they had to work with a road layout that had changed from the previous summer.
I did two full circuits, to take in the view from both sides before arriving back by the Basilica just around 2pm. A quick wander around the square to take me past the chimes of the hour and then into a very nice restaurant for another stonking lunch.
After lunch I had a look at the list of sights to see, and with the Forum closed it was pretty obvious that I’d exhausted Zaragoza of most sights if I didn’t want to trek out to the Expo site and pay through the nose for the aquarium, so I had a bit of a walk around the city centre before picking up the tour bus again back to the Basilica.
The bus arrived back just as the sun was starting to set and turned out to be the last service of the day that would do the entire route effectively at night so I stayed on to take a different view of the city.
Back in the main square just on 9pm I found a tapas bar and had a light supper before heading back to the hotel
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I caught the bus over to the train station where I had a bit of a wait before the fast AVE train back to Madrid and then the local commuter train out to the airport and the flight home.
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Despite the queues I was through security within half an hour of arriving. The flight boarded on time and we pushed back just a couple of minutes late.
After an uneventful flight we landed into a bright and sunny Berlin. However, in the 10 minutes it took to get from the plane to the arrivals hall the weather had turned into a spectacular cloudburst which was soaking the city. Thankfully a covered walkway to the bus stop, and then a very quick leap onto the bus when it arrived ensured I stayed dry.
By the time the bus reached the city centre it was bright and sunny again. The bus terminated at Zoo station which was exactly where I needed to be to pick up the train out to Potsdam. Given it was a Friday and mid-afternoon I thought it might end up being quite a busy train, so rather than standing I invested in a €4 upgrade ticket which meant I could sit in 1st class. I was very glad I did as the train was already full and standing when it arrived and the platforms were pretty well packed with people waiting to join. In the end I only just got a seat in 1st class.
A smooth 20 minute journey late we pulled into Potsdam where I hopped onto a tram the couple of stops round to the hotel to checkin. After checking in I wandered across the road to the Alter Markt area to have a look around, including the stunning Nikolaikirche, the roof of which you can climb up onto for amazing views over the city.
Back down at street level with slightly aching knees I caught the tram round to the Hauptbhanhof to grab a very late lunch/reward for climbing, and then headed back into the centre of town.
I had a little bit of a wander in the fading daylight, found a nice restaurant and had a dinner little more than 90 minutes after lunch.
I then headed back to the hotel to rest my weary legs and get an early night ready for a long following day.
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The Park was the location of the summer homes of the Prussian royal family with, seemingly every one building a new palace. Consequently the park is littered with exotic palaces from the impressively large Neues Palais to the picturesque 12 room Schloß Sanssouci.
As I’d already visited most of the palaces a number of years earlier – and let’s face it the key point about a preserved royal place is that they don’t change – I didn’t bother actually paying through the nose to go into any of them, but I had a long wander through the park taking in all the sights.
By now the weather had improved quite a bit and after catching a bus back into town I picked up the tram out to the Glinecker Bridge.
The bridge fell right across the border between the Western districts of West Berlin and East Germany and consequently was a closed off area to almost everyone right up until 1989. The bridge was also, famously, the location where spy swaps took place with Soviet and American spys making the walk across it to their respective freedoms.
In some ways I should have come to the bridge early in the morning when it was foggy and dark as that’s really the kind of weather you’d associate with a location like this, but on a sunny afternoon it did mean you could take in the pretty lakes and further castles of this area.
I caught the tram back into town and popped back to the hotel for a quick freshen up before heading out at dusk to catch a regular bus back over to Park Sanssouci.
I’d expected that, as with any other major attraction like this, it would be beautifully floodlit at night and I could get some good photos, but the whole area was in total darkness with just the limited moonlight providing any lighting options for a picture.
I headed back over to the hotel and decided to eat there for the evening, before turning in for the night.
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I caught a 90 minute cruise round the lakes that the Havel river forms around Potsdam, each one surrounded almost on all sides by palaces and summer houses, this really was an area the Prussian’s loved.
By the time the boat made it back to the quay the weather was rapidly deteriorating with a stiff breeze blowing and spits of rain in with it, so I popped back up into the hotel and collected my bag and headed on into Berlin.
A quick change off of the S-Bahn onto the underground and two stops south to Stadtmitte and my hotel for the night, just round the corner from Checkpoint Charlie.
After checking in I headed out into town for a long wander without any major plan in mind for where to head to.
I spent quite a bit of time talking, but by now the weather had really started to deteriorate so I headed back to the hotel and had a very nice dinner in the bar before turning in.
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First stop was to wander over to Bernauer Straße to look at the recently opened displays and walking route dedicated to the Berlin wall. The wall ran directly along the middle of the road with residents literally cut off from each other overnight.
To begin with there were several successful escape attempts as people could jump out of a window in an East Berlin house straight into the waiting nets of the West Berlin fire service standing outside on their side of the border. Quickly the authorities stopped this, first by bricking up the windows and then by demolishing the houses completely, eventually clearing even more buildings to create the death strip that ran between the outer wall (that the West Berliners saw) and the inner wall that kept the East Berliners in.
Today the path has the line of the wall clearly marked with metal posts, as well as fragments and recreations of the wall along with lots of information boards and displays about the area. There is a lot of information as well about the number of escape tunnels that were built under this part of the wall.
I spent quite a bit of time wandering along the wall and would have spent longer if it wasn’t for the weather deteriorating from drizzle to full on hard rain that was impossible to carry on wandering in.
I found a nice restaurant nearby and had an extended lunch break trying to sit out the rain.
Eventually the rain cleared back down to a drizzle, but only in time for me to have to start heading back to the hotel to collect my stuff and start the journey home.
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Having left my stuff in the room I headed out for a wander around town starting off by the cathedral and wandering through its grounds before finding myself down by a pleasant walkway by the Itchen
It would have been even more pleasant had the weather not chosen this point to start to deteriorate into a fine heavy drizzle.
I walked back into town alongside the Itchen stopping off at the statue of Alfred the Great briefly before the weather deteriorated to such an extent that I headed back to the hotel.
I waited in the hotel for a little while for the weather to improve before I headed out to dinner.
After dinner I went for a bit more of a wander around the Cathedral, but once again the weather deteriorated rapidly and I ended up scampering back to the hotel soaked to the skin.
I took advantage of the bath tub to have a more pleasant soak before going to bed.
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Sated for the day I headed out over to the bus station to pick up the bus out to Bishop’s Waltham, home to one of the many palaces and castles that the Bishops of Winchester had built.
I had a long look round the site and then headed into the small medieval market town itself to have a look around and a stop for a late lunch before hopping on one of the last buses back into Winchester (buses stop early out here on a Saturday)
A brief wander round the town centre, before I headed back to the hotel to freshen up before dinner.
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The Abbey itself was converted, after the reformation, into a sumptuous palace but subsequently turned to rather spectacular ruins.
I had a long look round the ruins of the palace before heading back to the bus stop and taking the bus all the way back into Fareham to get some lunch.
As I had a day ticket for the bus I decided to go on a ride down to the neighbouring town of Gosport to have a bit of a look around, and grabbed a coffee in a café overlooking Portsmouth harbour.
I retraced my steps back to Fareham and the train back to Winchester, arriving back just in time to head out for dinner.
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Checked out and with luggage stowed in the hotel I walked the short distance to the restored city mill to have a look round that. The mill was returned to working order around 2005 and is once again using the power of the River Itchen and a water wheel to make flour. Whilst it is quite a fast flowing river, in the centre of Winchester the Itchen is also quite shallow so it’s amazing quite how much power directed water and well-designed gearing can generate.
From the mill it was a short walk alongside the River to Wolvesey Castle, another of the Bishop of Winchester’s palaces to have a look around its ruins and then a quick dive into town to grab a coffee and a light bite.
Then up the hill to the Westgate, the former city gate that is still standing and leads onto the minimal remains of Winchester castle, with just the restored Great Hall and its famous Round Table being the only major elements remaining.
Wandering back down the hill and just before reaching the cathedral I headed into the City Museum for a look around and then across the Cathedral green to have a look inside Winchester Cathedral.
Coming out of the Cathedral I suddenly realised quite how hungry I was feeling so I wandered onto the main high street and stopped off at a pub for a late lunch.
Having pretty much exhausted the key sights of the city centre, and conscious that, as it was the end of a long bank holiday weekend, the trains would be getting busy, I headed back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and wandered up to the station.
I was proved right about the trains as the first to arrive, the fast train into London, was already pretty much full and standing. I decided to give that one a miss as was quite glad as everyone who had been on the platform appeared to be standing as it pulled out.
A couple of minutes later the slower (by 5 minutes) train pulled in almost deserted, so I was able to get a selection of seats to myself for a comfortable ride back into London.
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The last time I’d flown from the South Terminal had been over 2 and a half years earlier, coincidently on Norwegian the same airline I was flying today. Things appear to have changed dramatically in the intervening 30 months, not least of all the labyrinthine duty free shop that you have to walk through to get to the departures lounge, the thing it most reminded me of was the path through an Ikea, suitable I suppose on a trip to Sweden.
I’m not quite certain what they hoped to achieve by the massive duty free store as by the time I walked through it and made it into the departures lounge my flight had already had a gate number up so if I’d actually stopped to shop I may well have ended up missing the flight.
I touched down in Copenhagen a couple of hours later into glorious sunshine, the last 20 minutes of the flight having been across the stunning, and incredibly neat, Danish landscape. After passing through the airport I hopped on the train across the Øresund Bridge and across my second international border of the hour into Sweden and Malmö.
The hotel didn’t check-in until 3pm, but they were happy to look after my bag so I left that with them and went for a long wander around the city centre taking in the main sights.
I had thought about taking one of the canal cruises that the guide book recommended, but it appears that unlike a month earlier in Zaragoza where I was arriving on the opening weekend of the season, I was running a week early for Malmö as none of the tours, boat or bus, were running until the following Saturday.
Instead I carried on wandering round the city centre, pretty much following the canals so following the course of the tours, even if I was having to expend the energy myself.
By the time I was back by the station it was well past the start time of check-in at the hotel so I headed over there checked-in and after freshening up headed back out into town to look for some dinner.
I found a very nice Indian restaurant in the little square (that is its actual name – Lilla torg) where I had dinner amongst the crowds of Friday evening in downtown Malmö.
After another short wander I headed back to my hotel for a quick, if not cheap, drink in the bar and then to bed to catch up on some of the missing sleep from the morning.
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The next big town (ignoring the Danish Capital the opposite side of the Øresund), less than 25Km from Malmö is Lund which is home to a large university and a cathedral, so I suppose on the British scale that makes it a full city.
The train took a full 10 minutes to make the journey and from the station I wandered into the centre of town to have a look around, stopping off at the spectacular cathedral.
From the Cathedral I continued to wander through town in a big loop, eventually finding myself by Kulturen the city’s open-air/folk/ethnographic museum dedicated to preserving traditional buildings from the Skåne and surrounding regions.
I spent a lot longer than I expected wandering round the small, but very full site. By the time I left it was fast approaching 3pm so I headed back over to the Cathedral to see the Astronomical clock in action (it only runs twice a day and I’d missed the earlier show). In the end it wasn’t really worth going back for.
From the cathedral I headed through the city and over to the botanical gardens to have a look around.
After the botanical gardens, and a stop for a coffee in the centre of town, I headed back to the station to catch the train back into Malmö.
I stopped off at the hotel to freshen up and then headed back out into town to look for some dinner as I’d realised that despite the large breakfast the lack of lunch was becoming noticeable!
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First stop of the morning was the city of Helsingborg. Until the opening of the Øresund bridge between Malmo and Copenhagen the ferry spanning the 4Km channel between Helsingborg and Helsingør in Denmark was Sweden’s fastest connection to mainland Europe and prior to that had been a key battle ground between the two nations as they plied for supremacy over the this part of the world.
Consequently the city had an impressive castle, much of which as gone, but parts of the bastions and the main tower still stand and are worth having a look around. From the top of both the views are spectacular, particularly across the straights to the castle of Kronborg, AKA Hamlet’s Elsinore in the Danish town of Helsingør.
After climbing the tower and having a wander round town I decided, as a return ticket wasn’t very much at all, to hop on the ferry over towards Helsingør, mostly so I could get a good view of both cities from the water. I had about 20 minutes to wander around Helsingør before I hopped back on the ferry and headed back to Sweden.
Back in Helsingborg I picked up the afternoon train back down the coast, through Malmö and on round to the port town of Ystad. The town is vital for another link to Denmark, this time to the Island of Bornholm which lies off of Southern Sweden but is part of Denmark. I had a bit of a wander around town, but by now the weather was starting to deteriorate rapidly and any chance of a light evening disappearing behind increasingly threatening clouds I wandered back to the station and thankfully was sat on the train back to Malmö when the heavens opened.
It was still drizzling quite heavily when I got back to Malmö so I decided rather than going to find a restaurant I’d just eat in the hotel and then turn in for an early night.
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The castle is part of the long history of warfare between the Danes and Swedes for control of Skåne, the area of land that is now Southern Sweden, but has passed backwards and forwards between the two countries many times over the course of history.
The current castle is an interesting mix of a 17th Century construction and a 1930’s build that combines historic Danish and modern Nordic with the 20th century element baring in places quite some resemblance to the Stockholm and Oslo town halls.
Inside the castle there are a number of museums and I spent quite a long time looking round the exhibitions before even reaching the rooms of the historic castle, where there is an excellent display charting the history of the wars to control Skåne in one of the Canon towers along with the kings chambers reconstructed as to how they would have been when he was in residence.
I stopped off in the very nice café in the castle complex to have a bite to eat before wandering back through the parks to the centre of town.
By now it was time to head back to the hotel and collect my luggage before hopping on a train back over the Øresund Bridge into Denmark and on to Copenhagen airport for my flight back home.
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Meeting concluded I headed back to Port Talbot station and caught the train over to Swansea and then hopped on the Pembroke Dock train to, at a leisurely pace, take me to Tenby.
Around 2 hours later, after a very picturesque ride through the Welsh countryside we finally pulled into Tenby station and I walked the short distance up to the hotel to check-in.
Having left my stuff in the room I headed out for a long wander around the town in the gloriously sunny early evening.
I took in a lot of the town centre, including the castle and harbour before heading down onto the Castle beach and walking along the golden sands to the South beach.
From the South Beach I wandered back up into town and having taken in the town walls headed back to the hotel for dinner and an early night.
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However, as the return ticket was the same price as a day ticket I did have the flexibility to change plans and they changed very quickly as the bus stopped pretty much at the entrance to Manorbier castle I decided to hop off and have a look around that, before picking up the next bus an hour later.
A quick check on the Traveline Cymru app showed that if I stayed on the bus to Haverfordwest I’d be in time to make an easy connection over to St Davids, the smallest city in Britain, so I stayed on into Haverfordwest and then on out to St Davids
The city is based around the stunning cathedral huddled down in a hollow beneath the main square.
I wandered down past the cathedral and onto the ruins of the Bishop’s palace to have a look around that before head back to the cathedral.
I had a long wander round the town, only really being stopped by the nagging drizzle turning into full on light rain, so I headed into a café for a quick coffee before catching the bus back to Haverfordwest.
Back in Haverfordwest I had the choice between catching the next bus back to Tenby which was due a few minutes later or having a look around town. As it was home time for most people the bus was going to be quite busy so I decided not to take up a seat on the busy bus and instead headed into town to have a look around.
I wandered up to the castle to take in the views and after a bit more of a wander round town headed back to the town centre to grab another coffee before catching the bus back to Tenby.
I arrived back into Tenby just as the light was starting to fade so I headed back to the hotel to drop off my stuff before heading out to dinner.
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After taking in the museum and having a wander around town I headed over to the station to pick up the train in Pembroke.
I wandered through Pembroke over to the castle to have a look around.
I wasn’t expecting to spend as much time as I did looking around the castle and in the end it was late afternoon before I’d finished off exploring so I grabbed a late lunch in the castle café and then had a walk round the Castle pond to take in the views of the castle.
Then it was time to head back to the station to catch the train back to Tenby.
After a quick wander around town I headed back to the hotel to drop my stuff off before heading out for dinner.
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Having taken in the house I had to quickly head back through town to the hotel to pack and check-out before the midday deadline, then head down to the station to start my very long journey home.
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In the end it took nearly an hour to make a journey that can normally be done in just over 15, with quite a few very stressed people who had clearly left it a lot closer than I had to departure time to head to the airport.
Checked in I wandered through into departures and waited for the flight to be called.
Due to an earlier delay at Edinburgh the flight was originally due to leave about 10 minutes late, but once we had boarded the pilot made an announcement that a light that wasn’t supposed to come on had come on and therefore needed an engineer to come to fix it.
In the end we were an hour late by the time we finally pushed back at Gatwick and didn’t make up any of the time, so by the time we finally touched down at Edinburgh the last tram and bus over to the hotel had left.
A quick, but expensive, taxi ride later I arrived at the hotel checked in and with the clock heading rapidly for midnight headed straight to bed.
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This flight was far smoother with boarding, all 26 of us, completed about 15 minutes before departure time. We were already on the end of the runway and starting the take-off roll at the same time as we should have been pushing back.
A very smooth flight later and we landed so early at Wick that the B&B owner, Keith, who had offered to collect me from the airport, was running through the terminal doors as I stepped away from the baggage belt with my bag.
After giving me a very quick tour of Wick and pointing out the key sights Keith dropped me off at the heritage centre whilst he took my luggage back to the B&B as the room wasn’t ready yet.
I had a long look round the heritage centre, which is a combination between an Aladdin’s Cave and a Tardis – massively bigger on the inside than it looks from the outside and absolutely stuffed with exhibits.
Having taken in the heritage centre I wandered into town to pick up some lunch before it was time to head back to the B&B to check in.
From the B&B I headed back into town and picked up the bus out to John O’Groats – well you can’t come this far north without going all the way to the end. I had a long look round there – partly extended because the choice was either 15 minutes or 2 and a half hours due to the bus timings.
I picked up the last bus of the night back into town and popped into a pub in the town centre for a light dinner before heading back to the B&B for a good night’s rest.
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It turned out that nobody else wanted the 11am tour so I got a personal guided tour of the Old Pultney distillery followed by a tasting of their very fine whiskey.
Feeling slightly tipsy I headed back down the path to the headland walk and continued on round to the ruins of the castle to have a look around that.
From the castle I headed back in towards town with a bit of a dilemma as I’d pretty much done everything there is to see in Wick, so I decided to hop on the bus and head round the long way via John O’Groats and the Pentland Firth coast into the neighbouring big town of Thurso.
In Thurso I visited the Caithness Horizons museum and had a bit of a wander around before it was time to hop on a more direct bus back to Wick across the countryside, rather than round the coast.
The bus dropped me off right outside a nice looking Indian restaurant, so I had dinner there before heading back to the B&B
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If it had been nice I would have gone walking out in the countryside, but in this weather that would have been pointless, and probably dangerous, so instead I decided to do some sit down sightseeing and caught about the only bus running on a Sunday the coach down to Inverness.
The journey was spectacular with the road hugging the coastline most of the way, crossing tow Firths on low bridges before finally approaching Inverness via the Black Isle and an impressive cable bridge.
I had a bit of a wander round Inverness, stopping off for a late lunch and then an early dinner, before heading back to the bus station to make the return journey.
By the time I got back to Wick the weather, if anything, had gotten worse and in the 8 minutes it took me to walk back to the B&B my jeans were soaked through and I’d lost all feeling in my fingers from the biting wind and stinging rain. Thankfully my waterproof jacket at least kept the bulk of my body dry.
Back in the B&B I had a long hot bath to get feeling back into my fingers and toes and when it became clear the weather wasn’t going to improve until late in the night I watched a bank holiday movie on TV before turning in
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Wick is the very end of the line for the Far North Line which pretty much sums up the remoteness of this part of the world from even Inverness. The train is timetabled, and took, just over 4 hours to travel the 100 miles or so south to the Highland capital, but the journey was pretty spectacular, particularly when the tracks dive down right onto the beach between Helmsdale and Brora, just feet from the pounding waves of the North sea.
Four relatively relaxed hours, and four large coffees, later we pulled into Inverness and I made the quick change to the Aberdeen train.
The Wick train had filled up down the line, but at no point was it actually full, whereas by the time the Aberdeen train pulled out of Inverness it was already standing room only and it only got busier as it went down the line.
Consequently I was jammed up by my half window in quite cramped conditions that made the two and a bit hours to Aberdeen feel far longer than the 4 and a bit hours down from Wick.
Arriving in Aberdeen I headed out of the station over to the bus stop and out to the airport to complete the last leg of the journey back into London.
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Having dropped my stuff off at the hotel, just minutes before two massive coach loads of French and German school children arrived, I wandered out to grab some dinner.
I had been intending on taking the cable car (or dangleway) over to the O2 (formerly the millennium dome) to grab a bite to eat over there, but as I arrived at the station it was closing down for the evening, apparently there isn’t enough custom to keep it open after 8pm (though if you believe the news stories that should apply 24/7)
Instead I grabbed some things from the Tesco express opposite and headed back to the hotel to have a self-catered dinner in my room before popping down to the bar for a drink and then turning in for an early night.
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A brief breakfast picked up the evening before at Tesco’s and then it was off out for the 10 minute or so walk across the Royal Victoria dock and through the streets of apartments and houses, that until the 1980’s were derelict docks, to West Silvertown station and the two stop hop on the DLR round to City Airport.
15 minutes after boarding the train at West Silvertown I was already sat in the departures lounge having dropped my bag off and cleared security. At this point I was pondering if I could have had another 20 minutes in bed.
An uneventful, if bouncy, flight across to Ireland and a repeat at Belfast City Airport with a very smooth journey through and by 11:00 I was already handing over my luggage to the safe keeping of the Premier Inn and heading back out into town.
When I’d last been to Belfast, just 5 years previously, the whole area I was standing in had been a proto building site – clearance had been completed and the first tentative foundations were going down. Today there are hundreds of apartments, all the Titanic related museums and attractions along with the Public Records office and the hotel, it makes getting your bearings quite difficult and it took a bit of time to find my way back to the centre of Belfast.
Having had a brief wander round I headed over to the City Sightseeing tour bus start point to pick up the city tour, doing a full circuit of the city out to Stormont and then through both the Falls Road and Shankill Road areas of the city, including a much longer trip along the peace wall than I remember the tour taking the last time I’d been here. Unfortunately, part of the tour did include taking in a particularly spectacular, cold and thankfully very short shower. However, by the time we’d gotten back to the city centre it was dry warm and sunny again and the bus was bone dry.
I wandered down to the Lagan and picked up my second tour of the day, this time the boat tour that runs from just below the weir out along the former docks area taking in many of the key sights of the Titanic from its slipway to the dry dock it was fitted out in. Of course the tour guides are very quick to point out that there was nothing wrong with the ship when it left the Harland and Wolff shipyards, even if only 13 days later she was rusting at the bottom of the Atlantic.
Back at the Weir at the end of the tour I headed back into the centre of town to grab a very late lunch and then picked up the penultimate open-top tour of the day, which, thankfully this time, stayed dry the whole way round.
Tour completed I headed back over to the Premier Inn to checkin and then went for a little wander round the area which now includes a Marina as well as the Titanic museum and the SS Nomadic tender boat that was built at the same time as Titanic for bringing the 1st and 2nd class passengers out to her at Cherbourg.
Then it was back to the hotel for dinner, before turning in for the night.
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Throughout the 70’s, 80’s and into the 90’s and even the 00’s problems on the Falls Road would have been bad news. Today, it’s because the council was resurfacing the road.
I had a long look round the Ulster museum and then wandered through the neighbouring Botanical Gardens to have a look round the Palm house before heading back to the bus stop to pick up the tour bus back into town.
After a stop for lunch in the city centre I wandered out to the Crumlin Road to visit the former Gaol to take in the afternoon tour.
The tour was incredibly interesting; not least for just how many of the people who run Northern Ireland who have been guests of the prison when it was open.
I walked back into town and then headed back out to the hotel for dinner and then a bit more of a wander around the Titanic Quarter before turning in for the night.
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The large dry dock was specifically built for the Olympic class ships (Olympic, Titanic and Britannic) and this was the last time that Titanic was on dry ground as it was fitted out and finished off. It left the dock here and less than a fortnight later was lying at the bottom of the Atlantic.
Having visited the museum and descended down into the base of the dock itself I headed back down the road to the Titanic Experience and SS Nomadic.
First off was the SS Nomadic, the White Star line’s first and second class passenger tender based in Cherbourg where the harbours were too small to accommodate the massive bulk of the Titanic and her sister ships.
A long look around the Nomadic and then it was into the Titanic Experience. Built next to the slipway where Titanic and Olympic were constructed. This is an excellent museum and I spent much longer looking round than I thought I would.
Consequently after a quick lunch in the café I realised I’d pretty much run out of time and needed to head back to the hotel and onto the airport.
I’d picked up my luggage and was halfway back to the bus stop for the shuttle to the airport when the skies opened with a torrential downpour, mostly made up of hail, which dropped the temperature from cool to virtually freezing. Thankfully I managed to make to be underneath the flyover crossing the Lagan before the worst of the downpour hit and sheltered there for about 20 minutes before it eased enough to carry onto the bus stop and off to the airport.
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After a quick change at St Pancras I was on the train down to Thanet and just over an hour later was disembarking at Ramsgate.
I had thought about walking the mile or so down the hill to the town centre any my hotel, but as a local bus was pulling up just as I left the station I took that as a sign and caught that down the hill.
A quick checkin to the hotel and then out for a brief wander round town before stopping for dinner.
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I had a walk up through the Albion Palace Gardens, and their man-made ravine, to the East Cliff and took in the views from there before taking the lift back down to harbour level and visiting the very interesting Maritime Museum.
The harbour, and the town, were very busy with celebrations for the 75th anniversary of Operation Dynamo, the evacuation of forces from the beaches at Dunkirk, many of the boats having started their crossing from the harbour at Ramsgate.
Consequently many of the small ships had gathered in the harbour and were open to look around, including the only recently restored Medway Queen.
After taking in the small ships and a visit to the beautiful Seaman’s chapel I headed back into town to have a bite to eat.
By now the cloudy and damp weather had deteriorated to a full on downpour so I sheltered in a café for a little while before doing some sightseeing of Pegwell Bay from the dry and warmth of a local bus.
A couple of hours later back in Ramsgate the weather was finally improving and I went for a long walk around the harbour and out along the breakwater for some stunning views of the town in now glorious sunshine.
I popped back to the hotel to freshen up and then headed out for dinner in a very nice Indian restaurant on the West Cliff.
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I had a long look round Walmer Castle and the gardens before heading out onto the beach and walking the mile and half or so into the neighbouring town of Deal to visit it’s castle.
Walmer and Deal castles, along with Sandown which is now just ruined fragments, were built to exactly the same plan but have lead two totally different lives. Walmer became the comfortable home of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports and these days resembles a very pleasant if slightly Disneyfied palace by the sea. Deal still remains clearly a defensive fort, though none were ever called into active service.
Whilst there is less to see in Deal castle, the interior being almost completely empty and there not being massive gardens built onto the back, there is more scope to imagine what life would actually have been like for the average soldier based here, with the cold damp passages – even on a relatively warm day – clearly indicating this wasn’t a comfortable sea side palace.
I had a bit of a wander around Deal and was trying to decide on whether to head back to the station or leave it another hour and continue to wander, perhaps taking in the pier, when the first spots of rain started to fall.
I walked back to Deal station wondering if I was going to make it before the weather really deteriorated as it kept threatening to chuck it down. Thankfully, whilst there were still spits and spots of rain it held off as the train pulled in.
A couple of minutes later, just before the train arrived at Sandwich, the skies absolutely opened and by the time the train pulled into the platform there were some very soaked people boarding.
It was still chucking it down when I got back to Ramsgate, so rather than catching the bus straight back down the hill to the harbour I caught it round the opposite direction of the Loop into Margate and stopped off at a coffee shop for a coffee to sit out the last of the poor weather.
With the rain finally having stopped I hopped on another loop bus and headed into Broadstairs for dinner before picking up one of the last loops of the evening back into Ramsgate and a well-earned sleep.
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However, this time I reminded myself not to disembark at Walmer and instead stay on round to Dover.
It’s a good 25 minute walk up to Dover Castle, with the final 15 minutes being nearly vertical, so I had hoped to be able to pick up a taxi at Dover Priory station to save all the effort, but on arrival there didn’t appear to be any cabs, and my distance memory of their being a taxi office by the station was either wrong, or had been redeveloped away. So instead 30 minutes later and slightly out of breath I found myself in the queue for tickets to Dover Castle.
The Castle is an English Heritage site so my membership card should have got me in for free, but as it was a Bank Holiday, and the 75th anniversary commemorations of Operation Dynamo, which had been co-ordinated from the tunnels under Dover Castle, there were special events on and consequently they were charging even members an access fee.
The castle was incredibly busy and there were queues to see many of the main sights, particularly to go down into the wartime tunnels. I eventually got onto a tour after standing in a queue for the best part of an hour, but it was worth it.
If I’d known how busy it was going to be I would probably have brought a picnic with me as trying to get food was also very difficult with most of the food outlets regularly running out and having to suspend services for periods whilst they cooked up more batches of food.
Eventually I managed to see most of the site and consume a particularly revolting chicken salad sandwich that had me reaching for the antacid tablets within a couple of hours.
Having seen pretty much all there was to see at the castle I walked back down into town and onto the station to catch the train back into Ramsgate, where I treated myself after the revolting lunch to a very nice dinner in the Pizza Express just round the corner from the hotel.
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As I was coming out of the hotel I saw I’d just missed a loop bus up to the station that was almost empty, and yet there were lots of people waiting at the bus stop. I assumed they were waiting for a different bus, but when the next loop turned up about five minutes later they all piled onto this meaning I only just managed to get a seat (and got some withering looks for daring to hold up the queue by purchasing a ticket and for having luggage). Only when I was sat down and looked at my phone did I realised how badly I’d timed leaving the hotel. It was 09:33 and all the free bus passes had just become valid.
As the bus turned up towards the station it passed, coming in the opposite direction, the National Express coach which was going to be by backup plan had the rail strike still been on.
Thankfully it wasn’t so I was able to get the train just after 10 from Ramsgate and a little before 11:30 was at St Pancras with plenty of time to make it back to Croydon before my half days leave ran out.
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After waiting nearly 20 minutes I finally caught the train that should only have been a two minute wait and started on my journey down to the airport and the hotel for the night.
My normal choice of hotel was fully booked so in the end I had to catch the bus from the airport down to the Ibis located on a trading estate on the outskirts of Crawley.
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A smooth journey through the airport, smooth flight and then onto the coach at the airport with a couple of minutes to spare (which was fortunate as there was nobody else waiting). After a quick ticket purchase at the coach station in Barcelona it was back onto the same bus and off towards Andorra.
It was a long, and for quite a way boring journey, up the motorway towards France. However, after a while we turned off the motorway and headed into the foothills of the Pyrenees and the journey became more interesting building towards spectacular scenery as we approached Andorra.
Arriving in town I wandered over to the hotel and checked in before heading out for a walk around.
Having spent quite a bit of time wandering around I found a nice restaurant and had a late dinner (or very early if working on Spanish times)
Then it was back to the hotel to turn in as I had an early start the following morning.
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The museum was very interesting, as the history of electricity production in Andorra, almost exclusively Hydroelectric, is also the history of the transformation of this small nation from a poorly connected mountainous backwater to the thriving modern state that it is today. What’s more surprising is that’s all happened in less than 100 years ago. Photos in the museum show the first roads towards France and Spain being built in the 1920’s and 30’s which appears so recent for a country to have been able to create basic communication links between its neighbours.
From the museum the coach headed up into the mountains, following a tight and winding road up to the lake at Engolasters, which powers the hydro station we had previously been looking at. The lake today houses a number of activities, including walks and adventure trails. Sadly, the main feature of the lake that will stick in my mind was the point at which my already frail camera finally gave up the ghost and died. The message being displayed I discovered when I got back to the hotel basically said – if you haven’t taken out an extended warranty on this, buy a new camera.
After a brief pause for coffee at a lakeside café, the coach took us back down a couple of hundred yards to a former mountain trail that has now been expanded into a long flat path trail leading through the mountains. About 10 minutes’ walk down the path we came to viewing platform from which there were amazing views down the valley to the Capital and beyond.
Back on the bus and we continued down the hill to the small Romanesque church of Sant Miquel d'Engolasters to have a look around before getting back on the bus to drive back down into town and the end of the tour.
I headed back to the hotel to check on my laptop exactly what the message on my camera meant and if there was an easy remedy. There wasn’t – it was dead – so I decided to take advantage of the exceptionally low tax rate, and the very favourable exchange rate, and visited one of the numerous camera shops on the main street in the old town.
About 20 minutes later and many Euros lighter I was the proud owner of a new camera body (the lenses from the now dead camera being of the same fit). I headed back to the hotel to drop my shopping off and then headed out into town for a walk.
The Anella Verda or Green ring is a series of trails that go round the mountain sides surrounding Andorra La Vella. Almost completely flat (once you’ve hiked up the side of the hill to reach them), they provide pleasant easy walks and stunning views. For the afternoon I headed up to the path running along to the North of the city (or the sunny path as it’s referred to). The path is about 4Km long and runs alongside an irrigation channel that gently burbles away next to you whilst you walk.
In the end I followed the path past the centre of town and part way up the Northern valley for about a kilometre out of town, stopping at one of the ancient bridges over a mountain stream that used to link the mountain paths together – today overshadowed by the main northern road shooting past it.
It was a fairly long and quite steep walk back down into town after which I headed back to the hotel to freshen up before heading out for dinner in a very nice restaurant just up from the hotel.
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The journey was going to take us all the way up the Norther valley for as far as the road goes (the Northern valley having no road access out to France, just mountains and a cable car over the border), and after the short tour round town picking up the passengers for the tour, we headed up the valley to our first stop the village of La Cortinada to visit it’s church and mill
The church was originally of similar design to the one we’d visited the previous day – but as the area became richer from Iron mining the villagers extended the church resulting in a small Romanesque church with a much larger baroque extension tacked on the back. After looking round the church we crossed over the road to the mills that sit over the river at this point. One a saw mill was used for cutting tree trunks into usable planks and then neighbouring mill used the same water source of the powerful mountain stream to grind cereals for flower.
From La Cortinada we headed further up the valley and after a brief stop and walk through the National Park at Vall de Sortney we headed on up the final, and very winding road to the mountain resort of d'Arcalís. During the summer season (July to late August – very short up here) the chairlifts are open to take in the scenery – with one taking you over the lakes and into France. However during late May and June they were closed whilst they did their maintenance works after the long skiing season (late October to early May) so we were only able to walk around to take in the stunning scenery.
Back onto the bus and we headed back down the hill to the village of El Serrat where we stopped for an incredible lunch that was included in the cost of the trip, but must have cost close to 90% of the ticket price.
From El Serrat we continued down the valley to Llorts stopping off to have a quick look at the Iron mines that helped to turn this part of the valley into an economic powerhouse with its own industrial revolution transforming the valley. From the mines we drove the few hundred yards down into the centre of the Village to have a look at the traditional houses passed down from family to family.
From Llorts we drove back down the valley to the main town of the parish – Ordino and had a long walk around taking in the main sights.
Then it was back onto the bus, stopping off at one final viewpoint to take in the stunning views up the Northern Valley, before heading back into Andorra la Vella.
Despite having had a very filling lunch and still feeling full when I left the hotel for an evening stroll, by the time I’d passed about three restaurants with glorious smells emanating from them I was starving again so I found a nice tapas restaurant near the centre of the old town and had dinner there, before heading back to the hotel slightly bloated for a good nights sleep.
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Given there wasn’t actually that much to see I decided to head up onto the other Anella Verda path – referred to as the shady one – to have a walk along that and take in the city. This turned out to be a good choice as the wooded area it winds its way through made for a pleasant space to be with the temperatures starting to get quite high.
I walked the path to its end at the edge of Andorra La Vella and then walked back across town and back down by the side of the river into the centre.
Stopping off at a café on a platform over the river I had a relaxing lunch before having a final detour up into the old town to while away my last hour or so in Andorra.
Then it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bags and make my way back to the coach station and the long journey back south to Barcelona.
The journey was no longer than the outbound trip, but with the coaches air-conditioning system on the blink and the temperatures outside well into the 30s it felt a lot longer, and stickier, than the inbound trip.
Back in the blissfully air-conditioned buildings of Barcelona Airport I did a quick t-shirt change into something less saturated and then checked in for my flight.
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Despite it not being particularly warm it was horribly muggy and Euston is not a pleasant station to have to wait in on a sticky day, so I was quite glad that they announced the platform for the train relatively early.
On boarding the air conditioning was on full blast making the train beautifully cool, but as more and more large bags got placed into the overhead luggage racks blocking some of the air vents the train did start to warm up quite a bit, so by the time we finally pulled into Manchester (thankfully only a couple of minutes late), I was thankful for the much cooler and clearer air of the North.
A short walk down from Piccadilly station to my hotel for the night, and after a quick bit to eat it was off to bed.
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Everything appeared to be fine until we ground to a halt approaching Wigan. By the time we pulled into Preston station we were already 15 minutes late – which given I only had a 9 minute connection – was concerning, though that concern soon ceased to matter when it was announced that due to issues with the overhead cables near the Scottish border nothing would be moving for the foreseeable future.
In the end we were only held at Preston for 30 minutes, and so finally arrive into Lancaster 45 minutes late and long after my booked train had gone. Thankfully, as the trains were in such a mess ticket acceptance was in place and therefore I could use another operators slightly slower service that left about 25 minutes later.
My original plan was to head down to the hotel, check-in, drop off my luggage and then head back to the station to get the 14:50 departure north up towards Ravenglass. Unfortunately, thanks to the delay I was arriving into Barrow on the train that was the 14:50 departure and so was clearly not going to be able to keep to the original plan.
However, there is a reasonable service on a Saturday, Barrow is a very flat town, and the walk to the hotel was considerably reduced thanks to the cut-through of a Tesco Extra car park and retail estate. 60 minutes after arriving into Barrow I was checked in and on the next train heading north up the coast.
My stop for the afternoon was Ravenglass a town on the Cumbrian coast at the meeting point of three rivers just before they empty into the North sea and a village with a history that goes back to the Roman times when it had a large fort. Into modern times a small narrow gauge railway was built to shuttle iron ore from the mines down to the railway here. The mine line closed in the early part of the 20th Century, but in an early case of heritagisation the line was converted into a tourist attraction and re-opened to passengers in 1915.
As it was quite late in the day there was only one round trip left so I took that up the line to the town of Boot up in the fells, before heading straight back on the last train of the day to Ravenglass.
Back in Ravenglass I visited the remains of a former Roman Bath house, at one point attached to the large fort – most of which has been lost to the sea. The remains of the Bath house whilst not substantial are quite impressive for their height and for the amount of original Roman rendering and plaster that still remains on them.
Having looked around the remains I wandered back to the station and picked up the last mainline train of the weekend (no Sunday service and nothing north of Millom or south of Whitehaven after 8pm any day of the week) back into Barrow.
After a quick stop to get some cash out I headed back to the hotel and popped into the neighbouring restaurant for dinner before turning in for the night.
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After breakfast, and with the rain having decreased down to just a few spits, I headed across the car park to visit the Docks museum. The museum has been built inside a former graving dock with the walls and floor of the dock forming the sides of the museum. The museum was very interesting, though I wasn’t able to see everything as they also appeared to be using the museum as a site for a Vintage Clothing Fair.
By the time I’d finished looking round the museum the weather had improved considerably, so I wandered up to the station to pick up a train back down the coast to the genteel seaside resort of Grange-over-Sands.
I went for a long walk along the prom in Grange, taking in the stunning views across Morecambe Bay and stopping for a coffee in a very nice prom front café, before heading back to the station and picking up a train back a few stops to Ulverston.
Ulverston turned out to be a very nice historic market town, which also happened to be the birthplace of Stan Laurel (of Laurel and Hardy fame). Needless to say the town takes great pride in its former son (even though he left age 6) and the large museum housed in the former cinema was well worth looking around.
From the museum I followed the signed path out of town and up onto the hill that overlooks the town, capped with its own tower designed to resemble one of Smeaton’s lighthouses from where there were excellent views over to the mountains of the Lake district and down to the shore of Morecambe Bay.
Back down into town and feeling quite knackered I headed back to the station to catch the train back to Barrow, dinner and an early night.
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The ruins of the abbey are located on the edge of town and, despite being deliberately made uninhabitable after the reformation, substantial parts still survive. I had a long wander round the site before taking the footpath along the small river that runs through site back into Roose where I picked up the bus back into Barrow.
I headed back to the hotel and picked up my luggage before wandering up to the station to pick up my train for the first leg of the journey home.
For a journey south it may appear a little odd to be heading North, but the railway line between Barrow and Carlisle is one of the most scenic in England, so as I was in this part of the country I’d routed myself back to London on an early evening train from Carlisle and this was my way of getting there.
The train runs along the edge of the bay round to the town of Millom where it then heads up the coast towards Seascale and its slightly more (in)famous neighbour Sellafield.
By the time we reached Sellafield it was clearly shift end time as the train filled almost to capacity, which then emptied again over the next couple of stops towards Whitehaven.
Beyond Whitehaven the line hugs a narrow strip of land between the sea and the cliffs which make for some spectacular views, even on an afternoon where the sea is a long way out and dead calm.
We finally pulled into Carlisle about 2 ½ hours after leaving Barrow and with about 15 minutes for me to make my connection onto the much faster train south back to London.
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The flight was delayed by about 20 minutes due to the inbound plane being delayed by headwinds on its journey in from Ukraine, but apart from that it was a smooth journey through the airport and onto the flight.
As it was the first day of the school summer holidays, Heathrow was pretty busy, and it was nearly 50 minutes before we finally pulled onto the runway and started our take-off run.
With the help of the same wind that had delayed the inbound flight we made up a lot of the lost time, so that by the time we landed in Bergen we were only just 20 minutes late.
A very quick transit through the airport, with the bags being almost as quick as the passengers meant that we were soon on a Flybussen into town and to the hotel.
Checked in, we went for a quick evening drink in the bar before turning in for the night.
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Then we wandered back through the town, stopping off at the Domkirke to have a quick look around as it was actually open for the first time when I've been in Bergen.
By now it looked like the clouds were starting to lift so we headed over to the funicular railway and took it up to Mount Fløyen for the views. The gamble paid off and by the time we reached the top the cloud had lifted to well above the top of the mountain offering stunning views over the whole of the city and the Fjord.
We stopped for a cup of coffee in the very nice restaurant up at the top of the mountain, before heading back down into town, against the flow of a much larger number of people who had obviously waited for the clouds to lift before making a decision to go up.
We continued a wander through town taking in the no longer wrapped in scaffolding St Mary's church (It's been in restoration ever since I first came to Bergen nearly a decade ago!), and the ruins of St Catherine's hospital before wandering past the Bryggen and stopping for a brief lunch down by the fish market.
With about 90 minutes to kill before we could head over to the terminal to check-in we picked up the Bergens Expressen land train tour to take in more of the sights of the city, including a view from half-way up Mount Fløyen that allowed us to watch our Hurtigruten dock at the end of its previous voyage.
Back in town we headed over to the hotel to pick up our bags and walked the short distance down the hill to the Hurtigruten terminal to check in, have our safety briefing and to explore the ship before it set sail for the start of our voyage late that evening.
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In the end I didn't get much more sleep than that, and by 7am I was up on deck with a cup of coffee watching the ship dock at Torvik, before headed down to Breakfast.
After a brief stop in Ålesund the ship headed down into the Storfjorden the spectacular Geiranger Fjord. At the bottom of the Fjord we had to head down onto the car deck from where we were transferred onto a small ferry to take us into the shallow and tiny harbour at the end of the Fjord where we picked up the coaches for an afternoon tour through the stunning scenery of this part of Norway, meanwhile the MS Richard With, with all the passengers who weren't on the tour, did a very quick 180 degree turn and was already steaming back up the fjord by the time we made it onto the quayside.
The tour started with the dramatic climb up out of Geiranger up the Eagle road and into the mountains that surround the town. After a brief photo-stop towards the top we continued on to the town of Eidsdal where we took the ferry across the Storfjorden to Linge.
Shortly after Linge we made a stop at the stunning Gundbrandsjuvet where the river scours its way violently through a gorge. After the Gorge we headed up into the mountains up to the top of the Trollsteigen, one of the most spectacular roads in the country. From the viewing platforms on the side of the cliffs, as the mists parted briefly, the incredible layout of this road, with its 11 hairpin bends, became clear.
Back on the coach and the driver earned his keep taking us down the stunning, winding road to the bottom where we stopped for coffee in a roadside cafe before continuing on our drive through the Norwegian countryside.
The final leg of the journey was a 35 minute ferry crossing back over the Moldefjorden to the town of Molde, where the ferry raced the southbound Hurtigruten into port.
In Molde we were transferred to a hotel opposite the Hurtigruten quay for a very pleasant dinner before watching the MS Richard With dock and re-joining her, via the slightly more elegant route of a rigidly solid gangway.
Up to the panorama lounge for a late night drink before turning in for the night, gently rocked to sleep as the ship entered a two hour stretch of open water.
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As we'd already done the tours from Trondheim when we came in 2013 we instead had a late breakfast and just wandered around the ship for the time it was in port.
Sailing away from Trondheim up the Trondheimsfjorden there were some stunning views, which were enjoyed over lunch before heading up onto deck for the final few moments of the fjord to see the amazing red lighthouse.
The number of people up on deck waiting to take in photos of the lighthouse made it obvious that to get the best spots for the natural highlights you need to get there early, so just over an hour later, and at the tail end of a downpour, we were positioned at the very front of the ship ready for its journey through the stunning Stokksundt where the path through the sound is not much wider than the ship, and the 90 degree turn part way through makes for an even more incredible journey.
From the Stokksundt we continued north, with dinner taking place whilst we crossed some open water, making for a slightly bouncy experience, before we reached the port of Rørvik.
At Rørvik we met the Southbound Hurtigruten, which tonight was the Lofoten. As the stop here is quite long there was an opportunity to head on board and have a look around the ship, just to remind ourselves of quite how small it was.
Back on the Richard With we headed for the bar for quick nightcap before turning in for the night.
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After breakfast there was time to watch the precarious transfer of passengers from the Hurtigruten onto a small ferry for the Glacier tour, from the fifth deck it looked decidedly dodgy as this tiny catamaran bobbed up and down next to our ship.
As we weren't booked on any of the tours from Bodø we held off having lunch until after the ship had docked, consequently the restaurant was deserted.
After lunch was the long sail across the open water to the Lofoten islands, but with a millpond still sea and clear blue skies it was an incredibly smooth journey.
Dinner whilst in port in Stamsund and then we sailed onto the main town of the Lofoten Islands – Svolvær. We had a bit of a wander around the town, before heading back to the ship for a drink in the bar before it filled back up again as people returned to the ship.
The highlight of the day, and one of the key natural highlights of the whole trip, was the journey down into the incredibly narrow Trollfjord. With most passengers out on deck you could almost hear people breathing in to help the ship squeeze into the narrow cliff lined fjord. By the time we reached the end of the Fjord to turn around it did feel like we were at a celebrity event with the number of camera's going off.
Making the whole thing more incredible, and a confirmation that we were well above the Arctic Circle by now, was as we turned in the Fjord, in beautiful sunlight, all the clocks showed midnight.
Then it was time, along with the rest of the ship, to turn in for the night.
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After breakfast we sailed on further north towards our afternoon stop at Tromsø, making a stop late morning in the town of Finnsnes, which wasn't anywhere near as pretty as it was when it was four feet deep in snow.
Tromsø just after lunch as we hopped off to visit the Polaria museum and have a wander round town, finishing off with an incredibly expensive beer in a very nice pub overlooking the Hurtigruten pier before it was time to re-board and continue the journey north.
The procession of food continued with dinner being served just as we left Tromsø whilst the ship headed north into choppier weather, by the time the second sitting were getting ready for their dinner at 20:15 there was a distinct roll starting to go on.
We stopped briefly in Skjervøy, a 30 minute stop reduced to just 5 because of the delay from the choppy sea, before setting off again, at which point I decided to turn in for the night (though it's difficult to describe it as night when the sun never sets.
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With the meal schedule condensed due to excursions in the early afternoon (Breakfast ending at 10, Lunch starting at 10:30); I took advantage of being awake to have an early breakfast, thus putting a reasonable amount of time between that and a later lunch.
A brief stop in Havøysund and then up to the island of Magerøya and the town of Honningsvåg. Here most of the ship, having already consumed lunch, disembarked to go on a trip up to the North Cape. However, as we'd booked to do a breakfast trip on the way back south instead us (and about 20 other people) headed into the now deserted restaurant to have our lunch.
After lunch, and to enable to crew to undertake a training exercise, we disembarked and had a wander round the small town, visiting the small museum which had a very interesting exhibition on the forced evacuation and scorching of the North of Norway at the end of WWII.
Back on the ship just after the end of their training exercise the crew were all ready to go, but as with any excursion, someone had been late back to the bus at the North Cape and now they were running late back to the pier.
Eventually they all made it back on board, but we were nearly 20 minutes late heading out of port. The highlight of the afternoon was supposed to be the rock structure outside of Kjøllefjord called the chapel, but it was upstaged a few minutes later by the massive party of line dancers in full country and western get up who boarded at Kjøllefjord to head up to the next stop of Mehamn.
From Mehamn we continued north into increasingly foggy weather, so that by the time we reached Berlevåg it was really difficult to see more than a few meters. The Northbound and Southbound ships are due to pass just outside the harbour, but because we were running late the Southbound ship had to sit outside port for quite some time, as it wasn't safe to have two ships in port, before finally being allowed in as we left. With the obvious conclusion that midnight fog was considerably more likely than midnight sun, I turned in for the night.
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The tour headed out of town and passed by the local iron ore mining village and mine before stopping off at the Long Fjord for a photo-stop before continuing onto the border.
Due to the nature of the border, being both an international frontier and the edge of the Schengen agreement, it's not actually possible to see much of Russia, other than one of the border watch towers, but it's still quite impressive to have made it to what once was one of only a few points where a NATO country and the USSR shared a border.
Back from the border and back onto what was now the Southbound Hurtigruten to start our journey back towards Bergen.
Next stop was Vardø with a quick visit to the monument to those killed in the Norwegian Witch trials, before getting back on the ship.
The tour leader had organised a waiving competition with her counterpart on the MS Nordnorge, an almost identical (but not sister ship) to ours. With glorious sunny conditions the original plan had been to pass the Nordnorge as it left the port in Berlevåg with passengers on their respective port sides waiving. In the end the Nordnorge was running quite late and was only a few hundred yards in front of us as it entered the port. Thankfully as the weather was much nicer than the previous evening it was safe for us to enter the port at the same time, so whilst the Nordnorge was docking we came alongside, their passengers ran round to starboard and put us to shame with the sheer number of balloons and decorated sheets they had produced.
The whole event was marked with a large amount of horn blowing from both ships and hoses being use to form water arcs between the two ships. No doubt much to the chagrin of the poor people of Berlevåg who were trying to get some sleep.
After the Nordnorge left we docked and as the sun started its bizarre journey back round the sky to its Western starting position, but still in full view, I headed back to my cabin
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After breakfast and a quick wander round the tourist trap that is the North Cape the bus headed back down towards the port, stopping to visit a Sami reindeer herdsman. From Honningsvåg we headed through the undersea tunnel back onto mainland Norway and the continued on through some stunning scenery (and some scenery that I'm sure would have been stunning if it wasn't for the thick fog that kept descending) down to the town of Russenes where we stopped for coffee and waffles, before completing the final 70Km back across the interior to the coast at Hammerfest and our waiting ship.
We took advantage of being back slightly early to head into a deserted lunch, by the time we finished people were having to hunt for tables.
The ship then headed south making its afternoon stop in Øksfjord before heading on Skjervøy, the port where I first discovered Hurtigruten 8 years and 6 days previously, where on the quayside there were large numbers of passengers waiting to join from the coach tour from Tromsø.
We continued south passing the MS Kong Harald in the late evening, after which I turned in for the night.
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Not quite as early as the previous day we were up, breakfasted and on the quayside at Hardstat at 8am to join the coach tour across the Vesterålen towards Sortland. The tour was very interesting with lots of excellent views over the island, but due to the nature of the tour there was quite a bit of padding to ensure we reached Sortland at the same time as the ship (taking into account we had to make a ferry crossing part way along the route.)
After lunch we continued on, stopping early afternoon at Stokmarknes to visit the Hurtigruten museum and the MS Finnmarken. I hadn't on my previous visits paid much attention to the history of the ship, but on this visit we were advised to, as the Finnmarken, in it's quite dated way, was in service from 1961 right up to December 1993 when it was finally replaced by our own MS Richard With, a massive leap in comfort, space and technology from what the Finnmarken offered.
Leaving Stokmarknes we headed into the stunning, and narrow Raftsundet, before once again making a short detour into the Trollfjord (so staying up to midnight a few days earlier had actually not been needed, as we passed through it in the late afternoon this time.)
As we were booked on an evening tour over the Lofoten islands we had to have dinner very early at 5:30, just after the Trollfjord so that we could be off the ship as soon as it docked at Svolvær at 6:30.
The evening tour was, if anything, more interesting than the morning one as the Lofoten Islands are themselves are more interesting landscape. The tour included a 90 minute stop in the town of Henningsvær to have a look at a local gallery as one of the two main industries on the Lofoten islands is art (due to the quality of the light) along with stockfish.
From Henningsvær we continued along the islands towards our final destination to Stamsund. However, after having been so good for the rest of the trip so far the weather really started to close in and much of the second half of the trip was done through a murk of low cloud and drizzly rain. By the time we reboarded the boat at Stamsund it was really chucking it down.
Back on the boat there was time for a quick nightcap before turning in.
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A generally quiet day was punctured with a stop in Brønnøysund where I got off the boat and had a quick look around, mostly just to stretch my legs.
Just south of Brønnøysund we passed the Torghatten Mountain, famous for the hole that was punched into the mountain by glacial activity during the last ice age.
After a special end of cruise dinner, as many of the passengers would be leaving the following morning in Trondheim, the ship docked in Rørvik with the MS Nordkapp coming in right behind us, so it was possible to have a look around that ship.
Back on the Richard With and a brief nightcap before Watling the first proper sunset in nearly a week and then to bed.
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A long sail up the Trondheimsfjorden and then around the coast, during which lunch was served and then into Kristiansund late afternoon.
With a large number of passengers having disembarked at Trondheim and three more coach loads off on an overland tour to Molde the ship was very empty during the last dinner.
At Molde there was time for people to have a last stretch of their legs before Bergen as all the remaining stops would only be a few minutes, and for those on the overland tour to re-join the ship. It also appeared to be a major place for people to take their cars off of the ship.
A quick nightcap watching the mountains disappear into the murk of drizzle and mist and then to bed for the last time on-board.
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After the rude awakening I went back to sleep again and was woken just before 8 as the ship started to dock at Florø. That was convenient as it meant I had time to have a final shower, finish my packing and get my bag out into the collection zone near the lift so that I wouldn't have to hall it off the ship myself.
A final breakfast and then a quick check around the cabin to make sure I had picked up everything before pinning the door open to show it had been vacated and up onto the main deck to nab a table for the next five hours for the final run into Bergen.
The final journey in was relatively smooth, and with not very many people left on the ship quite quiet. We must have had a favourable tide as Bergen came into view just before 2pm and we were all docked and disembarking by 2:15, about 30 minutes earlier than expected.
Having collected our luggage we picked up the transfer coach and headed to our hotel in Bergen.
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The flight was delayed by about 20 minutes due to the inbound plane being delayed by headwinds on its journey in from Ukraine, but apart from that it was a smooth journey through the airport and onto the flight.
As it was the first day of the school summer holidays, Heathrow was pretty busy, and it was nearly 50 minutes before we finally pulled onto the runway and started our take-off run.
With the help of the same wind that had delayed the inbound flight we made up a lot of the lost time, so that by the time we landed in Bergen we were only just 20 minutes late.
A very quick transit through the airport, with the bags being almost as quick as the passengers meant that we were soon on a Flybussen into town and to the hotel.
Checked in, we went for a quick evening drink in the bar before turning in for the night.
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Then we wandered back through the town, stopping off at the Domkirke to have a quick look around as it was actually open for the first time when I've been in Bergen.
By now it looked like the clouds were starting to lift so we headed over to the funicular railway and took it up to Mount Fløyen for the views. The gamble paid off and by the time we reached the top the cloud had lifted to well above the top of the mountain offering stunning views over the whole of the city and the Fjord.
We stopped for a cup of coffee in the very nice restaurant up at the top of the mountain, before heading back down into town, against the flow of a much larger number of people who had obviously waited for the clouds to lift before making a decision to go up.
We continued a wander through town taking in the no longer wrapped in scaffolding St Mary's church (It's been in restoration ever since I first came to Bergen nearly a decade ago!), and the ruins of St Catherine's hospital before wandering past the Bryggen and stopping for a brief lunch down by the fish market.
With about 90 minutes to kill before we could head over to the terminal to check-in we picked up the Bergens Expressen land train tour to take in more of the sights of the city, including a view from half-way up Mount Fløyen that allowed us to watch our Hurtigruten dock at the end of its previous voyage.
Back in town we headed over to the hotel to pick up our bags and walked the short distance down the hill to the Hurtigruten terminal to check in, have our safety briefing and to explore the ship before it set sail for the start of our voyage late that evening.
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In the end I didn't get much more sleep than that, and by 7am I was up on deck with a cup of coffee watching the ship dock at Torvik, before headed down to Breakfast.
After a brief stop in Ålesund the ship headed down into the Storfjorden the spectacular Geiranger Fjord. At the bottom of the Fjord we had to head down onto the car deck from where we were transferred onto a small ferry to take us into the shallow and tiny harbour at the end of the Fjord where we picked up the coaches for an afternoon tour through the stunning scenery of this part of Norway, meanwhile the MS Richard With, with all the passengers who weren't on the tour, did a very quick 180 degree turn and was already steaming back up the fjord by the time we made it onto the quayside.
The tour started with the dramatic climb up out of Geiranger up the Eagle road and into the mountains that surround the town. After a brief photo-stop towards the top we continued on to the town of Eidsdal where we took the ferry across the Storfjorden to Linge.
Shortly after Linge we made a stop at the stunning Gundbrandsjuvet where the river scours its way violently through a gorge. After the Gorge we headed up into the mountains up to the top of the Trollsteigen, one of the most spectacular roads in the country. From the viewing platforms on the side of the cliffs, as the mists parted briefly, the incredible layout of this road, with its 11 hairpin bends, became clear.
Back on the coach and the driver earned his keep taking us down the stunning, winding road to the bottom where we stopped for coffee in a roadside cafe before continuing on our drive through the Norwegian countryside.
The final leg of the journey was a 35 minute ferry crossing back over the Moldefjorden to the town of Molde, where the ferry raced the southbound Hurtigruten into port.
In Molde we were transferred to a hotel opposite the Hurtigruten quay for a very pleasant dinner before watching the MS Richard With dock and re-joining her, via the slightly more elegant route of a rigidly solid gangway.
Up to the panorama lounge for a late night drink before turning in for the night, gently rocked to sleep as the ship entered a two hour stretch of open water.
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As we'd already done the tours from Trondheim when we came in 2013 we instead had a late breakfast and just wandered around the ship for the time it was in port.
Sailing away from Trondheim up the Trondheimsfjorden there were some stunning views, which were enjoyed over lunch before heading up onto deck for the final few moments of the fjord to see the amazing red lighthouse.
The number of people up on deck waiting to take in photos of the lighthouse made it obvious that to get the best spots for the natural highlights you need to get there early, so just over an hour later, and at the tail end of a downpour, we were positioned at the very front of the ship ready for its journey through the stunning Stokksundt where the path through the sound is not much wider than the ship, and the 90 degree turn part way through makes for an even more incredible journey.
From the Stokksundt we continued north, with dinner taking place whilst we crossed some open water, making for a slightly bouncy experience, before we reached the port of Rørvik.
At Rørvik we met the Southbound Hurtigruten, which tonight was the Lofoten. As the stop here is quite long there was an opportunity to head on board and have a look around the ship, just to remind ourselves of quite how small it was.
Back on the Richard With we headed for the bar for quick nightcap before turning in for the night.
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After breakfast there was time to watch the precarious transfer of passengers from the Hurtigruten onto a small ferry for the Glacier tour, from the fifth deck it looked decidedly dodgy as this tiny catamaran bobbed up and down next to our ship.
As we weren't booked on any of the tours from Bodø we held off having lunch until after the ship had docked, consequently the restaurant was deserted.
After lunch was the long sail across the open water to the Lofoten islands, but with a millpond still sea and clear blue skies it was an incredibly smooth journey.
Dinner whilst in port in Stamsund and then we sailed onto the main town of the Lofoten Islands – Svolvær. We had a bit of a wander around the town, before heading back to the ship for a drink in the bar before it filled back up again as people returned to the ship.
The highlight of the day, and one of the key natural highlights of the whole trip, was the journey down into the incredibly narrow Trollfjord. With most passengers out on deck you could almost hear people breathing in to help the ship squeeze into the narrow cliff lined fjord. By the time we reached the end of the Fjord to turn around it did feel like we were at a celebrity event with the number of camera's going off.
Making the whole thing more incredible, and a confirmation that we were well above the Arctic Circle by now, was as we turned in the Fjord, in beautiful sunlight, all the clocks showed midnight.
Then it was time, along with the rest of the ship, to turn in for the night.
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After breakfast we sailed on further north towards our afternoon stop at Tromsø, making a stop late morning in the town of Finnsnes, which wasn't anywhere near as pretty as it was when it was four feet deep in snow.
Tromsø just after lunch as we hopped off to visit the Polaria museum and have a wander round town, finishing off with an incredibly expensive beer in a very nice pub overlooking the Hurtigruten pier before it was time to re-board and continue the journey north.
The procession of food continued with dinner being served just as we left Tromsø whilst the ship headed north into choppier weather, by the time the second sitting were getting ready for their dinner at 20:15 there was a distinct roll starting to go on.
We stopped briefly in Skjervøy, a 30 minute stop reduced to just 5 because of the delay from the choppy sea, before setting off again, at which point I decided to turn in for the night (though it's difficult to describe it as night when the sun never sets.
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With the meal schedule condensed due to excursions in the early afternoon (Breakfast ending at 10, Lunch starting at 10:30); I took advantage of being awake to have an early breakfast, thus putting a reasonable amount of time between that and a later lunch.
A brief stop in Havøysund and then up to the island of Magerøya and the town of Honningsvåg. Here most of the ship, having already consumed lunch, disembarked to go on a trip up to the North Cape. However, as we'd booked to do a breakfast trip on the way back south instead us (and about 20 other people) headed into the now deserted restaurant to have our lunch.
After lunch, and to enable to crew to undertake a training exercise, we disembarked and had a wander round the small town, visiting the small museum which had a very interesting exhibition on the forced evacuation and scorching of the North of Norway at the end of WWII.
Back on the ship just after the end of their training exercise the crew were all ready to go, but as with any excursion, someone had been late back to the bus at the North Cape and now they were running late back to the pier.
Eventually they all made it back on board, but we were nearly 20 minutes late heading out of port. The highlight of the afternoon was supposed to be the rock structure outside of Kjøllefjord called the chapel, but it was upstaged a few minutes later by the massive party of line dancers in full country and western get up who boarded at Kjøllefjord to head up to the next stop of Mehamn.
From Mehamn we continued north into increasingly foggy weather, so that by the time we reached Berlevåg it was really difficult to see more than a few meters. The Northbound and Southbound ships are due to pass just outside the harbour, but because we were running late the Southbound ship had to sit outside port for quite some time, as it wasn't safe to have two ships in port, before finally being allowed in as we left. With the obvious conclusion that midnight fog was considerably more likely than midnight sun, I turned in for the night.
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The tour headed out of town and passed by the local iron ore mining village and mine before stopping off at the Long Fjord for a photo-stop before continuing onto the border.
Due to the nature of the border, being both an international frontier and the edge of the Schengen agreement, it's not actually possible to see much of Russia, other than one of the border watch towers, but it's still quite impressive to have made it to what once was one of only a few points where a NATO country and the USSR shared a border.
Back from the border and back onto what was now the Southbound Hurtigruten to start our journey back towards Bergen.
Next stop was Vardø with a quick visit to the monument to those killed in the Norwegian Witch trials, before getting back on the ship.
The tour leader had organised a waiving competition with her counterpart on the MS Nordnorge, an almost identical (but not sister ship) to ours. With glorious sunny conditions the original plan had been to pass the Nordnorge as it left the port in Berlevåg with passengers on their respective port sides waiving. In the end the Nordnorge was running quite late and was only a few hundred yards in front of us as it entered the port. Thankfully as the weather was much nicer than the previous evening it was safe for us to enter the port at the same time, so whilst the Nordnorge was docking we came alongside, their passengers ran round to starboard and put us to shame with the sheer number of balloons and decorated sheets they had produced.
The whole event was marked with a large amount of horn blowing from both ships and hoses being use to form water arcs between the two ships. No doubt much to the chagrin of the poor people of Berlevåg who were trying to get some sleep.
After the Nordnorge left we docked and as the sun started its bizarre journey back round the sky to its Western starting position, but still in full view, I headed back to my cabin
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After breakfast and a quick wander round the tourist trap that is the North Cape the bus headed back down towards the port, stopping to visit a Sami reindeer herdsman. From Honningsvåg we headed through the undersea tunnel back onto mainland Norway and the continued on through some stunning scenery (and some scenery that I'm sure would have been stunning if it wasn't for the thick fog that kept descending) down to the town of Russenes where we stopped for coffee and waffles, before completing the final 70Km back across the interior to the coast at Hammerfest and our waiting ship.
We took advantage of being back slightly early to head into a deserted lunch, by the time we finished people were having to hunt for tables.
The ship then headed south making its afternoon stop in Øksfjord before heading on Skjervøy, the port where I first discovered Hurtigruten 8 years and 6 days previously, where on the quayside there were large numbers of passengers waiting to join from the coach tour from Tromsø.
We continued south passing the MS Kong Harald in the late evening, after which I turned in for the night.
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Not quite as early as the previous day we were up, breakfasted and on the quayside at Hardstat at 8am to join the coach tour across the Vesterålen towards Sortland. The tour was very interesting with lots of excellent views over the island, but due to the nature of the tour there was quite a bit of padding to ensure we reached Sortland at the same time as the ship (taking into account we had to make a ferry crossing part way along the route.)
After lunch we continued on, stopping early afternoon at Stokmarknes to visit the Hurtigruten museum and the MS Finnmarken. I hadn't on my previous visits paid much attention to the history of the ship, but on this visit we were advised to, as the Finnmarken, in it's quite dated way, was in service from 1961 right up to December 1993 when it was finally replaced by our own MS Richard With, a massive leap in comfort, space and technology from what the Finnmarken offered.
Leaving Stokmarknes we headed into the stunning, and narrow Raftsundet, before once again making a short detour into the Trollfjord (so staying up to midnight a few days earlier had actually not been needed, as we passed through it in the late afternoon this time.)
As we were booked on an evening tour over the Lofoten islands we had to have dinner very early at 5:30, just after the Trollfjord so that we could be off the ship as soon as it docked at Svolvær at 6:30.
The evening tour was, if anything, more interesting than the morning one as the Lofoten Islands are themselves are more interesting landscape. The tour included a 90 minute stop in the town of Henningsvær to have a look at a local gallery as one of the two main industries on the Lofoten islands is art (due to the quality of the light) along with stockfish.
From Henningsvær we continued along the islands towards our final destination to Stamsund. However, after having been so good for the rest of the trip so far the weather really started to close in and much of the second half of the trip was done through a murk of low cloud and drizzly rain. By the time we reboarded the boat at Stamsund it was really chucking it down.
Back on the boat there was time for a quick nightcap before turning in.
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A generally quiet day was punctured with a stop in Brønnøysund where I got off the boat and had a quick look around, mostly just to stretch my legs.
Just south of Brønnøysund we passed the Torghatten Mountain, famous for the hole that was punched into the mountain by glacial activity during the last ice age.
After a special end of cruise dinner, as many of the passengers would be leaving the following morning in Trondheim, the ship docked in Rørvik with the MS Nordkapp coming in right behind us, so it was possible to have a look around that ship.
Back on the Richard With and a brief nightcap before Watling the first proper sunset in nearly a week and then to bed.
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A long sail up the Trondheimsfjorden and then around the coast, during which lunch was served and then into Kristiansund late afternoon.
With a large number of passengers having disembarked at Trondheim and three more coach loads off on an overland tour to Molde the ship was very empty during the last dinner.
At Molde there was time for people to have a last stretch of their legs before Bergen as all the remaining stops would only be a few minutes, and for those on the overland tour to re-join the ship. It also appeared to be a major place for people to take their cars off of the ship.
A quick nightcap watching the mountains disappear into the murk of drizzle and mist and then to bed for the last time on-board.
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After the rude awakening I went back to sleep again and was woken just before 8 as the ship started to dock at Florø. That was convenient as it meant I had time to have a final shower, finish my packing and get my bag out into the collection zone near the lift so that I wouldn't have to hall it off the ship myself.
A final breakfast and then a quick check around the cabin to make sure I had picked up everything before pinning the door open to show it had been vacated and up onto the main deck to nab a table for the next five hours for the final run into Bergen.
The final journey in was relatively smooth, and with not very many people left on the ship quite quiet. We must have had a favourable tide as Bergen came into view just before 2pm and we were all docked and disembarking by 2:15, about 30 minutes earlier than expected.
Having collected our luggage we picked up the transfer coach and headed to our hotel in Bergen.
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After a bit of a wander we headed back to the hotel to check in the second room and unpack before wandering down for the complementary dinner.
Dinner completed we had a bit more of a wander round the Bryggen area before heading back to the hotel and turning in for the night.
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We had booked onto the Norway in a Nutshell tour which is a self-guided train boat and coach tour round some of the most spectacular scenery in Norway. When I’d been to Bergen nine years earlier I had done part of the tour as far as Flåm before backtracking. This time we would do the whole round trip.
The first leg follows the Fjords and rivers inland to Voss and then up into the mountains before finally arriving at the junction station of Myrdal where we were to change onto the Flåmsbana for the trip back down to fjord level. As I’d previously done the trip I knew that the train would be very busy and that there was a convenient cut through the station building to the Flåm train that was already waiting for us.
With decent window seats we started the twisting journey down the mountain, with the train twisting through the tunnel and at points passing over itself as it winds its way down past waterfalls and into the valley below.
We had about an hour in Flåm to grab a bite to eat before it was time to pick up the Fjord ferry along two different arms of the Sognefjord – the longest year round ice-free fjord and third longest fjord in the world. First we sailed up the Aurlandsfjord to where it met the Nærøyfjord and then sailed down that to the town of Gudvagen.
In Gudvagen we had to change onto buses for the next leg back up into the mountains. There were five buses parked up and by chance we decided to head for the rear one on the grounds it might not fill up so much, it turned out to be a good choice as it was quite empty and the driver turned out to be an excellent and very funny guide – not bad for a regular bus service! The bus headed out of town and after a journey through a tunnel climbs up onto the mountain the tunnel goes through to descend back down the worlds steepest road (18%) taking in the stunning views over the valley bottom.
Back down at the bottom of the hill we went back through the tunnel and then continued on across country to the railway station at Voss.
At Voss there was always going to be a relatively lengthy wait, but due to delays on the train it turned into a 75 minute wait before we finally got the last train of the day back to Bergen.
Back at the hotel in time for the free dinner and then, after a quick nightcap in the bar, to bed for a well-earned sleep.
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We did a full tour round before getting off at the back of the Bryggen and having a bit of a wander. Then with slightly rumbling tummies, and with not much left to do in town, we caught the funicular up to Mount Fløyen to visit the café up there for coffee and cake.
We spent quite a bit of time up there, leaving the café in time to watch that afternoons Hurtigruten arrival down in the harbour – today it was the largest ship the Finnmarken and the noise of its horn reverberating around the mountains was quite impressive.
Back down in town we picked up the hop-on-hop-off bus with the intention of just taking it round to the fish market, but at this point the skies opened and in the end we sat out a massive downpour on two full rounds of the tour.
By the time the rain had finally stopped we were almost back at the hotel so we hopped off, grabbed our bags and picked up the Flybussen out to the airport arriving just in time for checkin to open.
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With nothing quite joining up, and no working phone to be able to check on time, I was quite stressed by the time I finally made it to bag drop, with a little over 20 minutes to spare before it closed.
Once through the airport things calmed down, and after a very smooth and comfortable flight I touched down in Basel, went straight through the airport onto a bus into town and by the time I got to the hotel my room was ready and I was able to check-in.
Having dropped my stuff off I headed on into the centre of town to have a look around, firstly by heading down to the river and taking in the views from the main bridge linking the two central parts of town.
I headed up to the Münsterplatz and had a look around the cloister and the views from the terrace at the back of the church before heading inside the Münster to look around. It is possible to climb the tower to take in the views, but you have to be in a group of 2 or more, so being by myself I wasn’t allowed to go up.
Back out of the Münster I headed across the Münsterplatz and visited the Museum of Cultures on the opposite side of the impressive square. I had a long look around the museum, only leaving because they were starting to close the building as it was already closing time.
Back at the Münster I took the steps down to the riverside and crossed using one of the four different pulley ferries that operate across the river.
On the opposite bank I stopped off for a quick drink in the baking sun, watching the locals swimming down the river (less swimming more just being carried along by the current).
Drink completed I picked up the tram out to and across the German border to the small town of Weil am Rhine where a bridge crosses the Rhine over to the French town of Huningue. From the centre of the bridge it’s possible to see Germany, Switzerland and France at the same time, though to actually reach the join you would need to be on a boat as it’s in the middle of the Rhine.
Having crossed back into Germany I picked the tram up again and headed back over into Switzerland and the centre of Basel for dinner, a very nice Italian meal to finish off the tour of major European nations of the day, before heading back to the hotel.
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The round trip took about an hour and after a brief stop for a morning coffee I headed up into the university district to visit the Spalentor – one of the former city gates and one of the most spectacular, before heading over to the neighbouring botanical gardens to look around that.
By the time I’d had a quick spot of lunch in town the temperature was starting to get quite unpleasant so I decided the easiest way to deal with this, given its Switzerland, was to head to the top of the nearest mountain.
Thankfully that was a short train and connecting bus ride away in the town of Reigoldswil where I took the cable car up to the top of the mountain to Wasserfallen.
I had a drink at one of the cafes at the top of the mountain whilst taking in the views, and the beautiful cool breeze that was making the temperature much more bearable.
After a quick walk around the top of the mountain I headed back down and caught the buses back into Basel, stopping off at the Eastern most former city gate to have a look around that, before heading back to the hotel to freshen up.
Refreshed I headed back out into town for dinner, deciding on a very nice Anatolian restaurant in the old part of town, before having a wander up to the Münster to take in the views over the Rhine at night before heading back to the hotel.
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Given it was a Monday I was quite surprised to find that the whole site, including the museum, was open to look round – though with some difficulty as an event at the weekend meant that a large number of marquees and kiosks were in the process of being dismantled.
I looked round the key parts of the site, including the temples and carefully restored theatre, before heading across to the far side of the site to visit the Amphitheatre.
The temperatures were even hotter than the previous day, and by the time I made it back from the Amphitheatre I was exhausted so I stopped off for a quick drink in a café in town before heading back to the station to pick up the train back into Basel.
I walked back to the hotel, picked up my bags, and then headed out to the beautifully air-conditioned airport for the journey home.
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I left my route down to Chatham to fate, standing on platform 2 at East Croydon waiting for the first train into either St Pancras to pick up the High Speed or to Victoria to pick up the slow speed service down to Medway.
In the end first in, by a matter of seconds was the St Pancras train, which proved to be a good choice as I had just enough time to purchase my ticket at the terminal before the train became available to board.
A smooth journey down to Chatham, and onto the pub – mostly because I was feeling lazy and decided to get a taxi the 2 or so miles down the hill (and then back up the other side, and down again) to the hotel.
After checking in and dropping my stuff off I went for a little wander around the area around the pub before retiring to the restaurant for dinner and then an early night.
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I did a full circuit of the tour route coming back to the marina an hour later. I walked round the corner to Dickens world and booked onto the next tour, which was due to start a short while later.
After the tour I stopped for a bite to eat before heading back over to the bus tour stop and heading on into Rochester to have a look around what was once England’s smallest city, before the local council forgot to get the charter renewed and it reverted to just being a town.
I had a look around the Cathedral before wandering over to the impressive ruins of the Norman Castle, climbing to the top of the keep for some stunning views along the Medway.
Back at ground level I picked up the tour bus to do one more full of the circuit to take photos. Returning to Rochester I headed to a café for a late afternoon coffee. I then headed back to the hotel to freshen up.
With the sun starting to set I headed back in Rochester to take some photos of the castle and cathedral at night, and I wasn’t to be disappointed with the castle floodlit in a particularly interesting way, with red floodlights inside making it look even creepier that it does in the daylight.
Having taken quite a few photos I stopped for dinner in a very nice Indian restaurant just by the river before catching the bus back into Chatham and then down to the hotel and turning in for the night.
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I had originally only planned to spend a couple of hours looking around the dockyard intending on spending the afternoon looking around Fort Amherst just beyond the dockyard, but in the end there was so much to see in the dockyard that I didn’t even do that full justice let alone visit the fort.
On entering the dockyard I was advised by the ticket office to pick up some timed tickets for a couple of the exhibits that can only be visited on tours, so I picked these up and then headed straight up to the Victorian Ropery for the first tour of the morning.
The tour was very interesting with the highlight being the spectacular Victorian Double Rope Walk at the end of the tour. Still in active use today for creating maritime rope the ¼ of a mile long building is incredibly impressive and amazing that the process of making rope really hasn’t changed very much since the Victorian era of sail ships – even if the volumes required have decreased significantly
From the ropery I popped next door to the exhibition on the final century or so of the Docks working life from the rise of the steel and steam powered ship replacing the former wood and sail methods that the dockyard had previously been producing through its time as a builder of submarines to its eventual closure in 1984.
I stopped for a quick lunch near the ropery before heading back through the docks to have a look around the three historic warships – HMS Gannet, HMS Cavalier and the Submarine Ocelot.
Ocelot had to be visited on a guided tour, so that dictated the order in which I did the three ships, and was probably the most interesting of the three, mostly because it’s not every ship based museum that has a full sized submarine that you can walk through.
Having taken in the ships I had a brief look round the other collections in the dockyard, though by now I was starting to flag and didn’t really do them justice. Final stop of the afternoon was the Heart of Oak exhibition that, through a walking film experience takes you through the 19th century process of constructing a wooden ship.
Feeling totally knackered I left the docks and headed back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and then headed back to the station and the train home.
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I was booked on the 3pm train to Edinburgh which I thought would be a relatively quiet train as it was before the evening rush. Sadly, it looked like a lot of other people had decided to book the afternoon off as well and the train was pretty much full as it left Kings Cross
It was a generally smooth journey, although in a couple of places the train ground to a halt so that by the time I finally got into Newcastle it was gone 6pm.
I headed over to the Metro, got a ticket and picked up the train out to the hotel.
The hotel itself wasn’t particularly close to the Metro station, so by the time I checked in it was already gone 7pm and I didn’t really fancy trekking all the way back into town, so instead I used the restaurant at the hotel for dinner and then turned in for an early night.
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There were a number of options available with three different routes all going to Alnwick, but given the next one leaving was also the fastest I decided that was probably the best one to go for.
About 90 minutes later the bus pulled into the bus station in Alnwick and I got off for a wander around the town centre.
After a bit of wandering I found my way over to Alnwick castle and gardens to have a look around them, spending quite a bit of the day inside the grounds.
Having exhausted the castle and gardens – though not taking part in the Harry Potter broomstick riding activity (parts of Alnwick Castle was used in the films) – I headed back over to the bus station and picked up the bus onwards to Alnmouth a couple of miles outside of town, and on the coast at, as the name might suggest, the mouth of the river Aln that also runs though Alnwick.
I spent quite a bit of time taking in the beautiful scenery and lovely beach before picking up the bus back into Alnwick, but which point it was starting to get late and I realised I hadn’t had any lunch. I stopped in a café for a very late panini and coffee dinner/lunch before heading back over to the bus station and picking up a different bus for the slightly longer, but possibly more scenic, route back down into Newcastle.
Having had lunch so late, and with it now quite late I decided I wasn’t feeling that hungry and instead headed back to the hotel for a drink in the bar before turning in for the night.
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Thankfully, due to fortuitous positioning on the train meaning the door I stepped out of was by the exit steps, and for two people asking the bus driver quite a complex ticketing query, I made the bus with a couple of seconds to spare.
The bus itself was heading all the way back to Newcastle (taking 4 hours rather than the 50 minutes the train had just done the journey in), but I was only going part of the way down to the coastal town of Bamburgh and its spectacular cliff top castle
I had a good explore round the castle including the state rooms and taking in the stunning views over to both Lindisfarne and the other Farne Islands, before having a bit of a wander through town and back over to the bus stop to continue my journey south.
The next bus was only going to Alnwick, but serving more of the small towns along the coast so it made for a very interesting ride, with the amazing ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle drawing my attention and making up my mind to leave the bus at Craster to go exploring
I walked through the small, but very pretty, little harbour side and headed on out across the fields, following the large number of other visitors, towards the ruins of the castle.
With their position on the cliffs overlooking this stretch of the North Sea coast, and with the stunning barrelled walls of the gatehouse still standing, the ruins are spectacular, with a fair amount to see – though little in the way of information boards or guiding to know quite why the castle was built or how it ended up the way it did.
Back in Craster I headed over to a café near the bus stop for a late lunch and a coffee before the bus came in and I picked that up back into Alnwick before changing there for a bus back on into Newcastle.
I arrived back into Newcastle quite late, but feeling very peckish, so I found a restaurant near the bus station and had a quick dinner there, before catching a late Metro back to the hotel.
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I headed back down into town and over to the bus station to pick up the bus out to the Beamish living history museum located about 50 minutes bus ride away in County Durham.
I spent much of the day looking round the large site, with its various themed areas including a pit village, a colliery, a recreation of a 1900s town high street and WWII era farm.
The museum is spread out over quite a large site, but the historic open-top trams and buses that run round the site link everything up making it quite easy to get to see everything in a few hours.
I left just before the site was about to close, mostly because there was only one bus back to Newcastle after the museum closed and I suspected that would be quite busy, so I wanted to make sure I had seat for the journey back. In the end the bus was pretty much empty – but with a new driver learning the route it did take quite a bit longer to get back than it had done to get out.
I decided to hop off in Gateshead and pick up the Metro out to the coast getting off at South Shields. I walked down to the Tyne and picked up the ferry across to North Shields where a free link bus avoids the big hill up into the town centre and then continued on to the seafront at Tynemouth.
I had a long wander along the seafront taking in the views of the beach and castle ruins bathed in a beautiful bright red sunset before heading back to the Metro station and going back into the centre of Newcastle.
After grabbing a quick dinner in Newcastle I headed back out to the hotel and the comfort of my bed.
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I did one full circuit on the bus, but it wasn’t a particularly pleasant experience as it had the worlds loudest and screechiest brakes, making it quite difficult to hear the commentary, and slightly concerning about its stopping ability, albeit that it never was going more than about 15 miles an hour.
I popped over to the central station and had a quick coffee stop whilst I waited for that bus to head off and the one 30 minutes later to arrive, which had much better breaks and made for a more comfortable ride.
Having done another loop, this time actually being able to hear the commentary, and taking in the view from the opposite side of the bus, I headed into the centre of the city to grab a late lunch.
By now there wasn’t much time to visit any of the museums in the city centre, so instead I hopped on the Metro and headed out to the pleasant seaside town of Whitley Bay to have a bit of a wander around, before catching the Metro back to where the coast line met with the airport line and picked that up back to the hotel and my luggage.
The hotel room deal included a free transfer to the airport, so rather than dragging my luggage all the way back down hill to the metro station I took advantage of the transfer and headed over to the airport, where I picked up the same metro train a couple of stops back up the line and headed back on into the city centre.
Unlike the train up, the 17:25 departure on a Tuesday evening, stopping at virtually every town down the East Coast, was quite deserted and I had a lot more room for the comfortable journey back.
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An on time departure and early arrival into Amsterdam was only slightly put out of kilter by the plane landing on the furthest possible runway at Schiphol, so by the time we’d spent 15 minute taxying around the airport perimeter we were back on correct arrival time.
The usual long hike through the airport and then a bit of a wait for luggage meant that I missed the train to Rotterdam by about 5 minutes and ended up with a 25 minute wait for the next one. Thankfully the next one was a high speed train direct to Rotterdam and took less than 30 minutes to get me there.
I picked up the tram outside the station to the stop nearest to the hotel, checked-in, dropped my stuff off and then went for a wander around the city.
Rotterdam, like much of the rest of the Netherlands, is a very easy city to wander around being flat, though its noticeably much more built up and high-rise than even Amsterdam and with very wide roads at times it took some time just to go a short distance as you waited interminably for three directions of road traffic, then a couple of massive herds of cyclists to cross before a green man appeared to let you get to a traffic islands in the middle of the dual carriageway to repeat the same process over again.
In the end I only realised how long I’d been wandering when I realised the sun was starting to set so I took that as a cue to locate a restaurant, have some dinner and then cheat and get the tram back to the hotel and my comfy bed.
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I did two full circuits of the route – one on each side before arriving back at the Centraal station and stopping off for some lunch.
After lunch I headed down to the Maritime Museum to have a look around both the museum and it’s harbour of historic ships, cranes and other vessels moored in the harbour immediately behind the museum.
It’s an interesting collection with lots to see and I spent quite a bit of time looking round everything.
From the museum I headed back towards the hotel to have a look around the Laurenskerk the last remaining building from Medieval Rotterdam, but sadly the church was closed for the afternoon so instead I popped across to the nearby and considerably more modern Markthal which is a stunning structure.
Leaving the Markthal I was just in time to pick up the hop-on-hop-off bus for the last stops of it’s penultimate tour of the evening, staying on for the last tour. I was very glad I got a good seat as I was treated to some stunning sunset views of the city as the bus crossed some of the bridges of the city.
Back in the centre of town I found a restaurant and had another very nice dinner before heading back to the hotel.
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Given it was a Monday and most attractions were closed I had intended on picking up a morning harbour cruise, but when I stepped off of the tram it coincided perfectly with the arrival of the waterbus up the river to the UNESCO listed Kinderdijk area. Given the weather was so nice I decided to throw the original, and very limited plan, out the window and instead hopped on the boat.
Arriving at Kinderdijk the first thing that greeted me was the tourist office offering bike rentals, so I picked up a Dutch bike and headed down into the Polder. First stop – after the ticket office – was the visitors centre to watch a short movie about the history of the Kinderdijk and the details on how all the windmills work together to pump the water out of the low lying area into the river.
From the visitors centre I cycled the kilometre or so down to the first of the museum mills and had a look around that before cycling another kilometre onto the second museum mill, which was in full and spectacular sail. Standing in the mill with the sails rattling round at top speed gives you a greater understanding of how this was not a quiet or easy job.
I cycled round a lot more of the area – an area that I wouldn’t have been able to cover if I was on foot – before heading back to the tourist information centre to drop off the bike and catch the ferry back into town.
Back at the Erasmus Bridge quay in Rotterdam I picked up a ticket for the 4pm harbour cruise with a joint entry to the Euromast so, with nearly 90 minutes to kill before the harbour tour, I headed over there to take in the views.
After taking in the views from the top of the Euromast, and taking quite a few photos I descended back down to street level and headed back to the River Harbour quay to pick up the tour.
The ferry back from the Kinderdijk had just missed the previous tour, but in the end I was quite glad it did as the 14:30 returned absolutely packed with all the outside seats full, whereas the 16:00 tour was at best 60 people across a boat with capacity for 600.
Having completed the tour I headed back into the centre of town for dinner and then, with a bloated stomach, headed back to the hotel to digest and sleep.
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I caught a bus over to the South bank and had a bit of a wander round, taking in the views of the SS Rotterdam moored up on the opposite side of the harbour, before heading back across the river using the Masstunnel pedestrian tunnel under the river.
Back on the other side I had a long wander around the park land at the base of the EuroMast before heading up the tower to the restaurant for a late lunch with some stunning views over the city.
I headed back down into town and picked up a tram to head over to the opposite side of the Erasmus Bridge with the intention of walking back over the bridge to take in the views before having a final wander around the harbour area, but at the stop before the bridge the tram filled to such an extent that it was impossible to get out for the next couple of stops, so I had to go sailing past the stop I wanted, and a couple more, before heading back.
By the time I got back to the Erasmus Bridge I realised I needed to stay on the tram and get back to the hotel to collect my luggage and head for the airport.
Having picked up my luggage I managed to make to the station with just enough time to spare before the train back to Schiphol and my flight back home.
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I quickly popped out into the city centre, but the weather was so unpleasant that after a quick visit to the bank to pay in a cheque I headed back to the warmth, and dry, of the hotel for the rest of the afternoon and evening – taking advantage of the very nice on site restaurant to have a relaxed dinner before turning in for an early night
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I walked over to the hotel and left my luggage with them, before heading next door to the bus station to pick up the bus out to the small Shropshire town of Much Wenlock.
The town can lay claim to be the actual birthplace of the modern Olympics, with the Wenlock games having taken place many years before the modern games were restarted in Greece (in fact the founder of the modern Olympic movement even visited the town to get inspiration).
The town is also home to a very impressive set of ruins of it’s former Priory, destroyed following the reformation, and it was to these that I fought my way through the driving rain to visit.
I had quite a lengthy look round the site, taking quite a lot of advantage of the areas where there was shelter to stay out of the rain.
After looking round the priory I had a wander round town and popped into the very nice, is slightly small, town museum to have a look around, before heading back to the bus shelter to pick up the bus back into Shrewsbury.
Back in town I checked into the hotel and, after unpacking, headed out to have a brief look around town before the sun set. On my wandering I found myself outside the local theatre and looking at the events schedule noticed there was a comedy act on that evening- on a whim I enquired in the box office and was able to snap up the very last ticket.
I had just enough time to grab an evening meal before heading back to the theatre to take in the show before returning, in a now cloudless night, back to the hotel to turn in.
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After breakfast I headed out over to the train station and picked up the train one stop down the line and over the border into Welshpool. From the station I walked into the centre of town and then up through the estate parkland to the impressive Powis Castle, perched high on a ridge over the town.
I had a long wander around the staterooms and the more interesting servant’s areas of the castle before heading over to look at the impressive gardens.
Unfortunately the weather had taken another turn for the worse and in trying to look around the gardens I was getting soaked, so I abandoned that and instead headed over to the tearoom to get a late lunch and to dry out.
With the weather showing no sign of improvement I headed back from the castle down to town and onto the station with the intention of getting the train just before 3.
The weather had been so poor for so long that the ground water and rivers were no longer able to cope and slightly further down the line the tracks had been flooded and the rail line was currently suspended, with no replacement buses planned, no service buses on a Sunday and no sign of any taxis.
I retreated to the old station building – which is now an outlet store with a very nice café – to try and found out how to get back to Shrewsbury. Keeping an eye on the internet I was able to spot that one train that had been heading towards Aberystwyth had been turned round at the next town down the line and was now preparing to return back to Welshpool and Shrewsbury, so once it was confirmed it was on the move I finished my tea and headed back down to the station.
The train arrived, and after a 20 minute wait for the train in the opposite direction to come off the single line from Shrewsbury, we set off into the dying light of day.
Back in Shrewsbury I headed back to the hotel for a long hot bath and then a pleasant dinner in the hotel restaurant, before turning in for the night
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After a quick lunch in a café in town I wandered down to the castle to have a look around the site before heading back to the hotel to collect my stuff and start the journey back home.
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Eventually through security at least it meant I didn’t have long to wait before my flight was called and I made my way to the gate and onto the plane. We were all closed up and ready to go around 15 minutes early, but then went on a long wander around the airfield at Heathrow meaning we didn’t reach the end of the runway for nearly 45 minutes.
A comfortable and smooth journey later, and a stunning final approach along the Marseille coast, we landed, cleared immigration and customs and a short while later I was on the shuttle bus to the centre of town.
From the station I walked the mile or so, thankfully all downhill, to the hotel – making a mental note that on the way back I’d use the tram and metro, even if it did take longer.
After checking in and dropping my stuff off I headed out of the hotel for a quick wander around the old port area near the hotel, taking in some of the key sights, before heading back to the hotel and turning in for the night.
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The island is part of a small archipelago, a couple of hundred meters off the coast at Marseille, with If being the smallest of the islands. The castle features in the Alexander Dumas novel the Count of Monte-Cristo and consequently that has helped to drive quite a tourism industry for the place (even on a Friday morning in winter, a fortnight before Christmas, there were still a good dozen people heading to the island on the boat I was on, and that was the third of the morning)
I had a long look around the castle. Naturally, quite a lot of the space is given over to an exhibition about Alexander Dumas and his life, but there are also small exhibits on the castle itself – though most of the displays were only in French.
I pretty much had managed to exhaust all there was to see on the island a short while before the next boat heading back to Marseille arrived, so I wandered down to the landing stage and picked that up back into town. Once back in the Vieux-Port I wandered round to the starting point of the Petit Train service and picked up their tour up to the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde.
The land train runs up through the old town, taking in several sights, before climbing up to the Basilica where there is a 30-minute stop to get off and look around. The church is about the highest point in the city, with the church dominating the skyline of the city. Naturally, from its terraces the views over Marseille and the islands are incredible.
After looking round the church and taking in the views I headed back to the car park just in time for the next Petit Train to arrive and picked that up heading back down into town. From the last stop on the tour I walked on down the harbourside road to the St Jean fortress and followed the path that runs around the outside of the fortress and over to the city’s Cathedral.
The Cathedral is as impressive as the basilica, but because its down at sea level, and not visible from much of the city, is a bit overlooked – consequently it was considerably quieter that the basilica had been. I had a good look around the Cathedral before heading back towards town and to the stunning MuCEM.
The first national museum to be built outside of Paris the MuCEM has helped to spark a massive regeneration of the harbour area of the city. The former Fort St Jean has been incorporated into the museum complex with the amazing modern museum, and its ramped path that winds its way up the outside of the building, linked to the top level of the fortress via a slim bridge.
I spent a long time looking round both the museum and the fortress, including watching the sun set behind St Nicholas fortress the twin of St Jean located on the opposite bank of the harbour entrance.
Back down in town and I picked up the bus out to the Parc de Pharo, located beyond Fort St Nicholas, to take some photos of the stunning views of the fortresses and harbour at night, before heading back into town for a bite to eat and then, with a full stomach, I waddled back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
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My first (and main) stop of the day was the open-top bus tour that leaves from close to the Hôtel de Ville and heads round the city taking in the main sights. Whilst the route is very similar to that of the land train, the views to be had, particularly along the seaside road from the top-deck of a double decker are much more spectacular, and the commentary was considerably more informative.
I did one full circuit returning back to the harbour side from where I headed over to the museum of the Roman Port to have a quick look around, before a light lunch in a restaurant overlooking the harbour.
Lunch completed I picked up a later bus to repeat the tour, this time on the opposite side of the bus taking in the views from there – which was impressive for the number of small valleys that were completely hidden if you weren’t looking at them.
Back down in town and I picked up the local bus back up to the Basilica, arriving just in time to catch the last sun rays of the day light up the city a golden honey colour, providing some stunning photos.
I picked up the bus back down into town and headed back to the hotel to drop my stuff off and freshen up before heading back out to find a restaurant for another stunning dinner.
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That booked I wandered back into town and visited the Museum of Marseille History with its impressive Ancient Greek and Roman remains dating back to the founding of the city over 2600 years ago.
After a quick stop for lunch in a harbour side restaurant I wandered back over to the harbour to pick up the boat tour out to the Calanques.
It was a very interesting tour, with impressive scenery – possibly made more impressive by the slightly rough seas.
Whilst I enjoyed the tour several of my fellow tourists didn’t have such a good time, and by the time the boat got back to the shelter of the Vieux-Port 3 hours after setting off about half the boat had lost their lunch.
I headed back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and then started the journey back to the airport and home.
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A surprisingly smooth journey all the way through the airport, through the flight and with the connections at the other end had me at the reception desk of the hotel a little after 13:30 local time. It did mean I caught the hotel unaware and I had a 10-minute wait to be able to get into the room as it was still being cleaned.
After dropping off all my stuff I headed out into town and first off headed over to the castle. The city appears to have quite a bit of cash floating around to do refurbishment programmes, as I’d found on previous trips – this time it was the area around the Metro station near the castle, and it took a good five minutes’ walk before I finally tracked down where the buses up the hill went from.
I had a bit of a wander around the castle area, taking in the views over the Danube from the Fisherman’s Bastion. I stopped off at the new 3D history of Hungary film that was in a part of the castle previously closed off.
With the sun starting to set I climbed up to the café in the largest tower of the Fisherman’s Bastion and picked up a mulled wine to drink as I watched the misty murk of day turn into the misty murk of night as the city’s floodlights illuminated the gloom.
I wandered back down through the castle, making a note of some potential places for dinner, before catching the bus back down into town and heading over to one of the Christmas markets to have a wander around and pick up some last minute Christmas gifts.
Back at the hotel in time to drop my shopping off and freshen up before heading back up to the castle for dinner.
After a bit of wandering around I decided on a nice looking restaurant located in the cellars. In hindsight I should have chosen elsewhere as the first two stone steps leading down into the restaurant were slippery, I lost my balance and came down with my back and my coccyx both making a heavy impact with the steps totally winding me at the same time.
It took about 5 minutes to get my composure back before I very carefully, and slowly, descended down into the restaurant for a pleasant, if slightly uncomfortable dinner.
Dinner completed I had a bit of a wander around the castle just to see if anything else other than my back was hurting, but everything else appeared to be working fine, so I headed down to the metro station and picked up the tram back round to the hotel to turn in for the night and to try and get some sleep.
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I decided to risk it anyway, and with some careful and occasionally tender corrections to seating style I was able to do the buses without too much pain.
Given the weather forecast for the rest of my time in Budapest I’d decided to use the cheaper of the multitude of companies that offer hop-on-hop-off tours. They are cheaper because they don’t have open-top buses, unlike much of the rest of the competition, which in summer probably hurts their business, but looking at the bedraggled and soaked occupants of some of the open-top buses going round town, I was quite glad for the sealed roof and dry seats.
The tour I booked onto had two routes and I did one full circuit of their Red line, before swapping onto the Yellow line to do that.
Several hours later, back at Elizabeth square, I grabbed a bite to eat and a quick coffee, before hoping back on a red route bus to take it round the city at sunset (or murk darkening as it was again given the day’s weather).
After having done much of the tour the bus was heading towards the final couple of stops when it became clear that the Sunday evening traffic in Budapest was not good, so the driver took a free-style route, skipping out the last two stops but ensuring we made it back to the centre of town without getting stuck in too many traffic jams. It did mean that we went sailing past my hotel and I then had to track back there to drop stuff off and freshen up before heading back out for dinner.
Back up into the castle area for dinner again, at a different restaurant, this time one on the level with only a single step up into it so no risk of further injury.
After a very nice dinner, if very quiet as I was the only diner in the restaurant, I had a little bit of a wander around the castle before catching the bus and tram back to the hotel and a good night’s sleep
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I headed back out into town and had a bit of a wander around the Christmas Markets near Elizabeth square before catching the Yellow line bus to do a quick circuit of that from the front seat.
Back in town I had a much longer wander around all the Christmas markets around both the main square and round the Basilica of St Stephen, stopping off in the Basilica market for a late lunch.
I headed back to Elizabeth square and picked up the Red line bus to complete part of the tour up round to the Citadella.
In the murk and mist the Citadella was spookily quiet with its Christmas market being enveloped with rolling mist, and the piped Christmas music sounding slightly creepy in the sound smothering fog.
I had a bit of a wander around the Citadella, but there really weren’t any views to take in as the mists appeared to be getting much thicker, so instead I caught the bus back down into town and headed back over to the hotel.
After freshening up I headed back up to the castle to find a nice restaurant, this time choosing one that was not only on the flat, but also relatively busy so I didn’t have to dine alone.
Dinner completed I had a long wander around the castle area, taking in the views before catching the funicular railway down the side of the hill to the chain bridge, where I picked up the bus to the tram back to the hotel.
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I had a bit of a wander around the site, taking in the exhibition in the Lapidarium underneath the square, as well as watching the guards performing a ceremony. From the parliament I walked alongside the river back to the Margaret Bridge and picked up the tram from there.
Tram line 2 has to be one of the most picturesque on the planet, taking in the full sweep of the Parliament building before running along the bank of the Danube past the Castle and Gellert hills. I took the tram past all the key sights and onto the Zwack Unicum distillery a bit further down the river.
Unicum is the Hungarian national spirit and is made from a combination of 40 herbs and spices to create quite a unique flavour. As part of the tour of the cellars and museum there is the chance to taste both the original drink, which is quite bitter, or the sweeter and milder plum version.
Having consumed 2 shots of 40% proof booze in quick succession I perhaps didn’t give the museum as much attention as I should have. Instead I headed back into town to grab some lunch, if only to try and counter the effects of the alcohol.
Revived, mostly through strong coffee I caught the Metro under the Danube to the bank opposite the Parliament to take some more photos before walking back up to the Margaret Bridge, this time on the Buda side and then wandering across to the mid-point of the bridge where it takes a 150 degree turn and offers stunning views down the river, one of the few places in the city where you can get a good view of the Parliament, Citadella and full sweep of the castle in one place.
By now the sun was already heading low into the sky so I started my journey back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and head on out to the airport, though in the process I checked the app on my phone to discover I was going to have a much longer wait that I expected as the flight was already delayed by over two hours.
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So after an uneventful Monday evening commute across London I had a quick change at home and headed out down to the airport to stay the night, as the flight was very early the following morning
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My bag was the first one round on the belt, and this combined with nobody else waiting to get a bus pass meant that I managed to make the airport bus that I had been convinced I would miss, especially important given a recent timetable change had reduced them from half hourly to hourly.
A little over an hour later, and after a very circuitous route the bus finally made to Sliema Ferries and I disembarked to walk the short distance to the hotel.
Having checked in and dropped off my stuff I headed out to find some lunch as I realised I was feeling very hungry, having only had a croissant around 6:30 all day. Thankfully there was a restaurant immediately outside the hotel, and they offered a discount to hotel guests, so that made hunting for food a lot easier.
After a very filling lunch I wandered over to the bus stop and caught the bus into the capital Valletta to have a bit of a wander around. During the wander I also stumbled across a land train tour of the city, so I took that round to help take in some of the sights.
Back in the square by the Co-Cathedral at the end of the tour and just as I was about to continue my wandering I felt a couple of spits of rain, so not wanting to risk getting wet I headed over to a nice café, that had a big awning, and sat down to have a late afternoon drink. Within a minute or so of sitting down the skies had opened and a torrential downpour was sending most of the rest of the tourists that were around scurrying for either the café or shelter elsewhere.
A lengthy shower, and a very nice drink, later I headed back up to the bus stop to pick the bus back round to Sliema and the hotel.
I had a light snack in another restaurant near the hotel and then turned in for an early night to try and catch up on some of the sleep lost due to the early start.
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With the first round of sightseeing done of the morning I headed out of the hotel and across the road to the kiosk for the hop-on-hop-off bus tours, where I purchased my ticket for the North tour and a discounted ticket for a later day (or Friday as I’d already decided) for the South tour of the island.
The North tour takes in many of the key sights, as its name suggests, in the North of the Island. Travelling out via the stunning domed church at Mostar and the cities or Rabat and Mdina before heading inland to the town of Mgarr and its ancient temples. Then it’s a quick detour down to the sands of Golden Bay on the countries North West coast before traversing the whole width of the island (at this point not more than a couple of Kilometres) to the North East coast at St Paul’s Bay.
From St Paul’s Bay the bus continued down the coast, passing through the near continuous costal development and back into Sliema.
I hopped off in Sliema and found a nice seaside restaurant for a light lunch before heading back up to the bus stop to repeat the tour, this time taking in the views from the opposite side of the bus.
As the tours take nearly three hours to do a full circuit (you do get value for money from them), it was almost dusk by the time I made it back to Sliema again.
From the open-top bus I headed the short distance to the regular bus stop and picked up a bus into Valletta where I went for a bit of a wander and stopped to have dinner.
After dinner I went for a bit more of a wander, taking in some of the areas of the city that have seen significant refurbishment to the fortifications since I was last hear 9 years ago, in particular the area around the Prime Ministers offices.
By now my legs were starting to ache so I headed down to the bus station and picked up the bus back into Sliema and my welcoming bed.
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I hopped off on the edge of town and wandered up to the Skorba Temple where I found that to visit you have to buy a ticket from the council offices in Mgarr itself. I had a wander around the outside of the site – in reality there isn’t much to see at this site – and then walked the mile or so down into Mgarr itself and to the Council offices to pick up a ticket to look round the Ta’ Hagrat Temples, located in the centre of town.
Having looked round those temples, which were worth the entrance fee, I headed back to the bus stop and picked up the bus over to Mostar to have a look around the spectacular domed church. Unfortunately, the church takes an extended lunch break from 11:45 to 15:00 and I’d arrived at 12:30 so there was no chance to have a look inside.
Instead, with good luck, as I was pondering what to do, the bus heading to Rabat turned up so I hopped on that and headed up to the old capital where I picked up another land train to take a tour of Rabat and the surrounding countryside, from which there were some stunning views.
Back in Rabat I headed over to look round some of the Catacombs, starting at the small St Catald Catacombs and then moving on to the much larger collection at St Pauls.
With the Catacombs done I wandered back towards Mdina, stopping for a brief late lunch in a café overlooking the walls of the city, before heading into the fortified old capital (or very old capital – it has been over 400 years since Valletta became the capital) for a wander round. At the far end of Mdina the bastions come to a point from which there are stunning views down most of the length of the East coast of the island from St Pauls Bay in the North (the very North of the island and Gozo being hidden by a hill) down to Freeport at the Southernmost tip. I sat taking in the view for quite a long time, at which point I realised that I needed to make a move back if I didn’t want to miss the hourly bus back to Sliema.
The bus managed to catch the back end of the Maltese rush-hour, particularly along the coast road and crawled back to Sliema, so by the time I got back to the hotel I was really quite hungry. Rather than heading somewhere else for dinner I instead stopped off at the restaurant attached to the hotel and had a very nice dinner there, before turning in for an early night.
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Breakfast completed and voucher exchanged for a ticket for the South tour I hopped on the first bus of the morning and headed out into the Southern part of the Island. After leaving Sliema the tour headed over to Valletta and did a full circuit around it’s fortifications before heading in land to Paola for yet more ancient temples and the Hypogeum. From Paola the bus headed over to the Three Cities, the original settlement of the Knights of St John when they settled the Maltese Islands, before they had finished fortifying Valletta.
From there the bus headed out into the more rural areas of the South East of the island, visiting the beautiful Maraxlokk harbour before heading back inland past ancient caves (making a note of which buses stopped outside the entrance ready for tomorrow) and under the Airport before heading to the Blue Grotto and the stunning ancient remains at Hagar Qim. From there it was back across the interior of the island, returning back to Sliema.
The bus dropped me off just in time to pick up one of the harbour tours which I duly did, taking in the views of the two harbours that surround Valletta and help make this one of the most important, and largest, natural harbour in the Mediterranean.
From the boat tour of the harbour it was back onto the open-top bus to go round again with the views from the opposite site, making sure I’d got the details correct for places to visit tomorrow, including where the relevant bus stops were and which buses to catch.
By the time the bus was starting on the final leg back into Sliema it hit really bad traffic and in the end we got an extended tour round some parts of the island that aren’t on the normal route so that the driver could pick up the coast road at Spinola Bay and head back into Sliema from the opposite direction. It also meant I was able to get a good view of the restaurants available at Spinola Bay which helped me decide where to go for dinner.
Back in Sliema I headed over to the hotel to freshen up and drop stuff off before heading over to the bus stop and picking up a bus back round to Spinola Bay where I found a very nice restaurant on the edge of the bay overlooking fishing craft and the water. I had a very pleasant dinner, with a particularly nice half bottle of Maltese wine, before heading back to Sliema exhausted and ready for my bed.
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It did mean I was out of the hotel early and on my way into Valletta to pick up the bus out the caves at Ghar Dalam for a look around them and the interesting attached museum that tells some of the history and geology of the islands, including relics that would suggest that there once might have been pigmy Hippos and miniature Elephants roaming around the islands.
From the caves I hopped back onto a bus to head back most of the way into Valletta to change onto the bus out to the spectacular temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra. The temples, along with those on Gozo are possibly the oldest man-made structures on the face of the planet pre-dating anything the Egyptians or Mesopotamians have. I spent a long time looking round the site, so long in fact that I missed the hourly bus back to Valletta.
Thankfully, I was in time for the hourly bus, a few minutes later, round to Rabat which took in large parts of west coast of the islands, including the impressive Dingly Cliffs and radar station. From Rabat I hopped onto a bus back into Sliema and popped back to the hotel to freshen up before heading out for dinner.
I was heading out for dinner quite early as I’d seen there were a large number of nice looking restaurants around the harbour in Maraxlokk when I’d gone past on the open-top bus the previous day, but getting there would be a relatively lengthy bus ride so I set off with the clock only just gone 5pm.
Having changed buses in Valletta I finally made it down to Maraxlokk just after 6:30, by which point it was obvious that the bustling harbour side restaurants clearly do a better trade during the day in January than they do in the evening as most were closed.
However, I managed to find one that was open and had a decent meal before heading back over to the bus stop and making the bus back to Valletta by the skin of my teeth (and thus saving myself a half hour wait). Back in Valletta it was a quick change onto a bus back to Sliema, my hotel and the fun job of packing ready for an early departure the following morning.
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After breakfast I checked out of the hotel and headed down to the bus stop to pick up the airport bus.
Much like the inbound journey the bus took nearly an hour of wandering around different parts of the island before finally making it back to the airport, but with lots of time to spare.
I checked in, headed through security and said goodbye to Malta.
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A smooth journey round South East London had me at the airport hotel, conveniently located next to a Crossrail building site, in less than an hour
I turned in relatively early as it was an earlyish checking in the morning, though being London City the deadline was only 20 minutes rather than an hour before departure.
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As I’d suspected the flight wasn’t particularly full and I had the whole row of seats to myself so I was quite comfortable for the flight down to the Med.
Arriving on time it was a quick journey through the airport and out to make the half hourly bus into town with a couple of minutes to spare. That dropped me off a couple of minutes’ walk from the hotel and by the time I reached it check-in was open so I was able to get straight into my room, drop off my stuff and head on out into Ibiza Town for some sightseeing.
I headed across town into the Dalt Vila, the old walled city that dominates the natural harbour and this part of the island back to the Phoenician times.
You can walk all the way around the walls of the Dalt Vila from where there are excellent views, and it’s an excellent way to get some exercise as the walls rise impressively between bastions wrapping its way up the hill.
I stopped off at one of the bastions where there was an exhibition on the building of the walls, which I was able to look around before it closed for the evening. However, it was clear everything else would be closed by the time I reached any of the other museums or the Cathedral, so I just continued walking around the walls and exploring some of the small lanes of the old town.
After several hours up in the Dalt Vila I descended back down into the growing gloom and had a quick wander around the harbour area before heading back to the hotel to freshen up.
I hadn’t seen many restaurants, or even sign of restaurants when I’d been walking round, and I was quite tired from an afternoon of climbing up fortifications, so I cheated and headed down to the hotel’s restaurant for dinner as soon as it opened at 8:30 before having an early night
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I wandered up through the harbourside lanes into the bottom of the Dalt Vila and then back up to the Cathedral to have a look around that before visiting the neighbouring museum that charts the history of the Dalt Vila from it’s original settlement by the Phoenicians through the Punics, Romans and Moors to the modern times.
I had intended on visiting another museum located in the Dalt Vila, but that appeared to be closed for refurbishment so that had pretty much exhausted the list of things to do in the old town.
I had a quick flick through the guidebook and found out about some caves on the north side of the island in a town called Port Sant Miquel which were well worth a visit, and a quick check on the bus timetables indicated there was a bus out there in about 40 minutes’ time with one back around 2 and a half hours later, so I headed down to the bus stop with a slightly ominous sky suggesting the afternoon was about to get wet.
I was right, and a couple of minutes into the bus journey the skies had opened and it was bucketing it down. The bus arrived in Sant Miquel where I then found out that during the winter months they don’t continue on down to the Port for the cave and instead if I wanted to visit I’d need to head the 4Km or so down the road to the port.
It had stopped raining so I headed off down the road for a couple of hundred yards before I found out that it turned into a very steep mountain road, with almost hairpin bends, a 70Kmh speed limit, no pavement and effectively a river running down the middle of it from the earlier rain. After a few more yards I decided it would probably be suicidal to continue on down the road, a decision backed up a few minutes later once I was back on a pavement as a massive lorry came tearing past.
Back up in Sant Miquel I now had two hours to kill before the next bus back, nothing to visit, and the rain had started again. Thankfully there was a restaurant doing lunch just opposite the bus stop so I popped in there and have a very nice, and slightly extended lunch in there heading back to the bus stop in time to get the bus back into Ibiza just as the rain was finally ending.
I popped back to the hotel to freshen up and then headed back out to the Dalt Vila once the sun had gone down to have a look around the floodlit old town.
Back down in the town centre I’d built up a bit of an appetite from all the climbing up into the Dalt Vila so popped into a restaurant I found that was open and had a light dinner before returning to the hotel.
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After breakfast I headed down to the harbour to pick up the ferry over to Formentera. The island is the only other inhabited island in the small archipelago of the Pityusic Islands, of which Ibiza is by a large margin the biggest. According to the guidebooks one of the key defining features of the island is that it is flat and very good for cycling.
I was a little cynical of this boast, mostly because even to the naked eye from Ibiza the island clearly rose up quite a bit from the sea. On arrival I hired a bike anyway and headed off down one of the cycle paths to explore the island.
Almost immediately I was confronted with the main road into the islands capital – St Francis – which was a 2KM almost continuous climb. I decided at that point that instead I would have a look around the beaches and salt pans of the area around near the harbour as they were clearly flat.
I spent several hours exploring the quiet coves, bays and beaches and the stunning disused salt pans. In that time I barely met another person – it was very peaceful and quiet.
I got back to the harbour about 50 minutes before the ferry was due to leave so that I could drop the bike back with the hire shop and then grab a drink in the harbour café before the 40-minute crossing back to Ibiza.
The final approach into Ibiza harbour with the sun starting to dip behind the peak of the Dalt Vila was very impressive. From the harbour it was a short walk back to the hotel where I dropped some stuff off before heading out for a wander around town to while away the time until the restaurants opened at 8pm.
I eventually found a very nice restaurant just off one of the main squares and had an excellent meal there before returning back to the hotel for a good night’s rest.
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This city of the dead has been in use from the Phoenician era and the very interesting museum houses a number of artefacts relating to the various burial rights of the Phoenicians, Punics, Romans and Moors who all used the site, repurposing it for their own needs as they went along.
Outside of the museum you can wander around the Necropolis and even descend down into one of the interconnected tombs that have been carved out of the rock.
By the time I had finished the Necropolis I had pretty much exhausted all the sites that were to be seen in Ibiza Town, but still had several hours to kill before my flight back home, so I decided to catch the bus over the island to the next most important town – Sant Antoni and have a look around there.
I had just under an hour to have a look around the town, which was even quieter than Ibiza Town and possibly even more set up for Clubbers and Beach holidays, and that turned out to be more than enough as I found myself back at the bus station a good 15 minutes before the bus back across the island was due.
Back in Ibiza I picked up my luggage and headed down to the bus stop to pick up the bus back to the airport.
The airport, like much of the rest of the island, was clearly operating on a much reduced capacity in the winter months with large areas of the vast check-in hall in darkness and almost all the shops in the departure lounge closed for the winter. Which made it all the weirder that they decided to park the plane up on the airfield and bus us across rather than just using one of air bridges that was lying idle.
If the flight out had been empty and comfortable, the flight back wasn’t. Clearly everyone had gone out to Ibiza in stages, but everyone was coming back on the Sunday evening and the completely full flight meant that the cabin crew were having to make people, including me, give up the seats they had requested as families had been split up.
Cramped into an Aisle seat I hadn’t wanted it wasn’t the most pleasant of flights back to London City, particularly with quite intense turbulence on final approach and a landing that involved several bounces down the runway before we finally made full contact, but at least the luggage came round quickly.
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The fog was clearly going to cause major havoc with Gatwick’s operations by the middle of the day, but thankfully this early in the morning the plane was already at the airport and the delays were still pretty minor. In the end we pushed back less than 10 minutes late and headed off towards the South.
A strong tailwind meant that we landed on Tenerife around 20 minutes ahead of schedule, and with a reasonably quick run through the airport I was able to get a bus into Santa Cruz not that long after landing.
Having dropped off my stuff at the hotel I headed down into the centre of town to the Plaza de España and picked up the open-top sightseeing tour bus to take in the sights of the city and to get my bearings.
As it was a very pleasant afternoon, and most things were starting to close anyway I decided to do two loops (one on left side of the bus, one on the right) to get the most views, and that left me back at Plaza de España just before 7pm and the very quick sunset that takes place this close to the tropics.
I wandered back to the hotel to drop my camera and stuff off before freshening up and then heading out for dinner, having already found out that on the Canary Islands dinner starts at the more reasonable time of 8pm than it does in mainland Spain.
I had a very nice meal in an Inn on a small square before heading back up the hill to the hotel and a good night’s sleep.
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I headed back down to the Plaza de España and to the tourist information centre to see if there were any coach or bus tours to the Volcanic parts of the island. I was in luck as there was a tour with a space left leaving at 11am, so I quickly booked on and, given there was lying snow in the mountains, headed back to the hotel to pick up a light jacket.
The tour headed off on time and was pretty soon climbing, something we would do for much of the day given Santa Cruz is at sea level and the peak of Mount Teide is nearly 4,000m. The landscape on Tenerife is stunning, and apparently very predictable. Up to 1000m it’s a fair mix at which point the Canary Pines start, they grow only between 1,000 and 2,000m above sea-level with those points being almost exact and at just around 1,000m sure enough the pines started.
At 1,500m we passed through the top of the clouds and shortly afterwards made our first stop of the morning on a viewpoint looking across to the summit of Mount Teide and down on a sea of clouds, with just the highest peaks of Gran Canaria visible above the cloud level.
We continued to climb and, as predicted, at 2,000m the pines shrunk away to very stubby trees and then disappeared completely as we entered the Teide National Park and its bizarre moon like appearance with old lava fields and magma plugs punctuating the landscape.
The heaviest snow in 15 years had fallen a couple of weeks earlier, and consequently the mountains were heaving with locals not used to such conditions. It consequently made the going slow, and with a couple of people on the tour off of cruise ships who had to be back in Santa Cruz on time, it meant there wasn’t time for us to take the cable car up to the very summit of the mountain, but we got very close.
Having taken in the views of the magma plugs, left over from long since eroded Volcanos and more of the lava fields we started to head back towards Santa Cruz, stopping at a very nice restaurant for a late lunch, before taking a different route back down to sea level near Puerto de la Cruz, again marvelling at the preciseness of nature – Pines starting at 2,000m; clouds at 1,500m; Pines stopping at 1,000m.
As it was still relatively early I picked up the tram in Santa Cruz and caught it out to the end of the line in La Laguna, the former capital of the island to have a look around there.
I had a long wander through the town, taking in the sites and stopping at the towns very interesting museum before the sun started to set and I took that as my cue to catch the tram back into Santa Cruz for a much lighter dinner than the evening beforehand and then bed.
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I had a wander around the outside of the building, taking in the views of both the Auditorio and the neighbouring Castillo de San Juan, an 18th century fortification that was one of a number built to protect the Canary Islands from, amongst others, the British.
The whole area around the Auditorio had previously been very run down, with my next point of interest previously being the city’s land fill dump until it was closed, landscaped and converted into the Palmetum, a large botanical garden dedicated to Palms and related plants. Hundreds of examples grow on what used to be an eyesore and is now a green a pleasant part of the city.
Having taken in both the palms and the stunning views over the city and surrounding mountains from the top of the site I headed back down into town and stopped for a light lunch, before wandering over to the main museum in the city to have a look around.
The museum is located in a large building with two wings. On the ground floor there was a very interesting exhibition on the geology of the Canary Islands and how they were formed and shaped by volcanic action. On the upper two floors one wing of the museum is dedicated to the Archaeology of the island and the other to the Natural history of the island – it’s an eclectic collection and at times a little confusing when you don’t realise you’ve wandered from one area to the other.
In the end there was almost too much to see in the museum and they were starting to close for the evening and usher people out of the building as I reached the last displays.
I headed back to the hotel to drop off my stuff and freshen up before heading out for another lovely dinner.
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I had a quick breakfast and then headed out of the hotel and through the Plaza de Principe, after which the hotel was named, before heading back down to Plaza de España.
In the 1920’s the Plaza de España was constructed, and in doing so one of the fortresses that protected the city was demolished. In 2006 the square was remodelled and it was discovered that one corner of the castle had remained, albeit buried deep underneath the square.
As part of the remodelling access was created to the remnants of the walls and a small interpretation centre was created.
I had a look around the centre, taking in the walls and some of the history of the city’s fortifications before it was time to head back to the hotel and finish packing.
I packed, checked out and made my way towards the bus station, knowing the journey back to the airport was around the hour, which would get me there just as check-in was opening.
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After all the horrid events earlier in the week in Brussels the security checks were tight and took a bit longer than normal, but it wasn’t too bad and I was sat in the departures lounge for a good 10 minutes before the train was called for boarding.
The train arrived into Brussels a little late, which was good as it meant I had to spend less time in Midi station which was a very tense place, with large numbers of heavily armed soldiers wandering around. Within 15 minutes of arriving I was already on a train heading back out of the station and towards Flanders
Having changed trains in Kortrijk I finally arrived in Ieper a little before 9. Thankfully the heavy rain that had been lashing the trains since Ghent had petered out so I was able to walk into the centre of town and over to my hotel in the dry.
By the time I got to the hotel and checked in it was too late to have dinner, so I had a quick bar snack and a drink before turning in for the night.
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From the Cathedral I walked back to the station and picked up the bus out to Passchendaele and the Commonwealth War Graves site at Tyne Cot.
Built around a former German Pillbox this is the largest such site in Europe and the rows and rows of white headstones is very moving, what’s more moving is the much longer list of names inscribed on the walls of the cemetery for those who have no grave as no part of their body was ever found, and the list on the wall here only covers the period after 15th August 1917 as they had run out of space on the Menin gate so decided to add the names of those who went missing after that date to the memorial here. Next to the graveyard is a small interpretation centre that tells some of the background to the Third Battle of Ypres that saw the heaviest fighting around this area. Most moving of all at the site is the single voice slowly reading out the names and ages at death of the men who are still missing.
From the cemetery I walked back to the bus stop and caught the bus back a couple of stops to Zonnebeke and the Memorial Museum in the town. The museum has lots of detail about the Third Battle of Ypres, and also on the build-up to the war in general. The second part of the museum takes you down into the recreation of a British dugout that would have been built at the front to house men on the front line. The final part of the museum takes you up into a recreation of both a German and British trench line to get a better understanding of what they were like.
There weren’t very many people at the museum but even so with the previous couple of days rain it was clear quite how muddy and unpleasant these trenches got.
I caught the bus back into Ieper and had a late lunch and a bit of a wander round, taking in the Menin Gate and the row after row of names of the missing – 54,896 names in total. I then headed over to the market square and caught the bus out to Hooge to visit the Hooge Crater Museum.
The museum covers the fighting that took place in this area, and the craters that were created by forces tunnelling under the ground under enemy locations, packing the tunnels with explosives and then setting them off to create massive craters in the landscape – now mostly filled with water.
From Hooge I caught the bus back into Ieper and had dinner before heading back over to watch the nightly Last Post ceremony that takes place at the Menin Gate each night at 8pm as it has since 2nd July 1928, a continued act of remembrance for the truly horrific cost of war.
After the ceremony ended I had a bit more of a wander around the city centre at night before returning to the hotel.
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With quite a few photo stops along the way (and a detour back to the hotel when a bird scored a direct hit on my jeans) it was well into the afternoon by the time I finally made it to the end of the ramparts by the station.
I decided to make a detour away from war and defence and look at something that Belgium is more happily known for. Picking up a bus (I had originally intended on catching a train, but the service was temporarily suspended due to a fatality on the line), I headed into the neighbouring city of Poperinge, the capital of the Belgium Hop industry – vital to Belgium Beers.
In the centre of town is the building that was the former town scales and is now a museum dedicated to Hops – their history, importance in the process of making beer and how they are produced.
After visiting the museum I had nearly an hour to kill before the train back (which had now started running again – I’d checked online) so I had a wander around the town before heading back to the station and into Ypres.
By the time I got back from Poperinge it was about half seven so I headed down to the Menin Gate to take in the last post ceremony before heading out to find some dinner.
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The museum tells the history of the war, starting at the end of the period known as the Belle Époque and how the tensions had built up over Europe that lead to the outbreak of the war. The museum then takes you through the main events that took place in and around Ypres.
It is an incredibly moving, and in places emotionally draining, museum but also massively engaging, so much so that I’d lost all track of time and by the time I exited the museum almost three hours had elapsed.
I wandered across town to the Stedelijk Museum which is more of a general museum about Ieper before wandering back onto the ramparts and heading back round to the Grote Markt. As I wandered along the ramparts it became increasingly obvious that the weather was about to take a turn for the worse, so when I got to the square I found a nice café under cover and settled down for a quick drink and a late lunch, just before a spectacular cloudburst took place.
By the time it had stopped raining it was starting to get quite late so I headed back to the hotel to freshen up and then headed back out to the Menin gate for that evenings Last Post ceremony (the 30,262nd such ceremony) before stopping at a different café in the square for a light dinner and then heading back to the hotel to pack
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Of course, the trip and the work meeting had all been booked long before the events of the previous Tuesday when suicide bombers had brought carnage to the Airport and a metro station in the centre of town, which had led to such a visible security operation when I’d arrived on Thursday. By Monday lunchtime that had started to relax down a little with more access to stations, but it still meant I had to be checked off against a list of registered guests before being allowed into the hotel.
After checking in and dropping off my stuff I headed out of the centre of Brussels and out to the Atomium.
I had a long look round the Atomium, stopping for a drink in the café located in the top ball, with stunning views over the city, before catching a tram round to the Eastern side of the city and another tram out to the beautiful suburb of Tervuren and had a wander around its quiet park, part of a former Royal Palace, before heading back into Brussels for dinner.
I headed over to the streets beyond the Grand Place where there are lots of restaurants. It was very clear that the city was still quite nervous with most of the restaurants either empty or only with one or two diners. I found a nice restaurant and had dinner entirely by myself before heading back to the hotel.
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Meeting completed a couple of hours later I headed back to the hotel to change out of the suit, pack and checkout. I headed over to the Midi station and put my bags into the left luggage lockers there.
I had originally planned to spend the afternoon working out of cafes in the city, but the events of a week previous had meant that my line manager was more than happy for me to not be in Brussels, so instead I headed into the neighbouring city of Leuven and had an afternoon mix of some work and a spot of sightseeing, before it was time to head back to Brussels collect my luggage and pick up the Eurostar home.
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By the time the trains started moving again the entire evening rush-hour had been wrecked and Southern were in panic mode making alterations to trains left right and centre. Thankfully this worked in my favour as it meant trains that wouldn’t have stopped at Gatwick were being stopped there to meet trains that were starting there rather than in London, so in the end I was only about 25 minutes late getting to the airport.
I took the shuttle over to the North Terminal, and after picking up a few essentials (dinner and sun tan cream as my previous bottle had run out in Belgium on the last trip) I headed over to the hotel, checked in and after a pleasant M&S dinner in my room turned in for an early night as I had a relatively early flight in the morning.
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Luggage came round surprisingly quickly, which added to the early arrival meant I ended up waiting almost 30 minutes for the next aerobus into town.
After checking into the hotel I headed out for a wander, heading to the harbour area where I picked up one of the hop-on-hop-off tour buses to take in the key sights of the city. The tour was quite convoluted as it took in all of the city and then headed out to Câmera de Lobos. It was a pleasant afternoon so I also took the opportunity to top-up my tan.
The bus arrived back in town and immediately set off again as the last bus of the night, so I stayed on to take in the views from the opposite side of the bus, arriving back into town just before 7pm. I had a bit of a wander around the city centre before heading back down to the harbour as I’d noticed there were a large number of restaurants down there.
Dinner completed I walked back to the hotel along the sea front.
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The journeys both underlined how rugged but also lush a landscape Madeira has, with steep volcanic hills and valleys, all covered in vegetation – where man hasn’t engineered enough of a flat space to build on.
The botanical gardens fall away down the side of the hill heading back towards the sea, and the views over the city centre and the sea were stunning. I stopped at a café halfway down the hill for a late morning coffee and to take in the views.
Having looked round the gardens, which took most of the morning, I caught the cable car back up to its top station and wandered the short distance back to Monte, pausing there for lunch in a café by the cable car station to take in the views and have a chicken omelette that I was later to regret.
Lunch completed I headed over to the Monte Palace tropical gardens, again located on the steep terrace of a hill these gardens cling to the terraces with a mixture of Portuguese and Oriental themes throughout the gardens. At the lowest point of the gardens is a small café again with stunning views, this time with the added benefit of a free sample of Madeira wine.
It’s a long hard slog back up the terraces to the top of the garden, though that was made significantly easier through the use of the buggy service that for €2 will zip you to the top in around 10 minutes, passing lots of exhausted looking people on the way up.
Back up at the top I walked round to the Monte church, famous as the final resting place of the last Habsburg King, who was exiled to Madeira at the end of WWI and died here shortly afterwards.
The second Sunday after Easter is the date of the Madeiran Flower Festival, a fact I’d only discovered from the commentary on the open-top bus the previous day, so with the main festivities kicking off in under an hours’ time I headed back to the cable car station and made my way back down to the sea front to take in the parade.
By the time I got down to the seafront there was already quite a crowd present, with the spectators a couple of rows deep the whole way along the parade route, but by careful manoeuvring I was able to get into a space where I could take in much of the parade and get some photos.
Having watched the parade, I headed into the old town area for a quick drink to contemplate dinner, but I was still feeling quite full from lunch so in the end I decided to wander back to the hotel for a bit and then head out later for dinner, a choice I was very glad off as back at the hotel it became clear that the not so pleasant chicken omelette had a reason for not being so pleasant.
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I’d always decided that today I was going to do the Yellow Bus tours, and I was glad to be spending much of the day sat down. I started by taking the tour out to Câmera de Lobos where I changed onto the shuttle bus service up to Cabo Girão. The Cape is the 2nd highest sea cliff with a vertical drop in the world, and to make it that more impressive they’ve built a viewing platform that juts out from the top of the cliff, with a glass floor meaning you can look straight down 1,500 feet or so to the beach below.
I’d managed to avoid two showers on the way up to the cape by sitting downstairs on the bus, and skipped a third one by having a cup of coffee in the café at the cape before wandering back to the bus stop to take the bus back down into Câmera de Lobos. Back down at sea level I had a bit of a wander around the town before heading over to the bus stop and picking the tour bus back up to head on back into town.
By now the weather had improved considerably so I stayed on the bus and did a full circuit from the top-deck in the sun, though by the time we arrived back into the harbour area at Funchal I was feeling unwell again. I decided to cut my losses and grabbed a taxi back the short distance to the hotel and about 30 minutes later left the hotel feeling considerably better.
I headed back to the harbour side and picked up the town tour bus to do two circuits of the tour and then went for a little wander around the cathedral area of the city before heading back to the bus stop and picking up the last Câmera de Lobos tour of the day.
For some reason, as it was free, I sat in the front seat and consequently was under cover when about two thirds of the way round the skies opened again and deposited another massive soaking on the island.
Back in town I wandered over to the Old Town area to have a bit of a look around and then to have a bite to eat. I had a very pleasant meal, but still wasn’t feeling perfect so hailed a cab back to the hotel rather than walking the mile or so, once again I was very glad I did as by the time I reached the hotel I was in need of the facilities.
Thankfully, that turned out to be the end of it and I was able to get a decent night’s sleep.
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Just across from the harbour is a small shopping centre that includes a theatre that shows a 30-minute film on the history and development of the island so I booked to see the next showing, which was in 20 minutes’ time, leaving me just enough time to head over to the Blandy’s wine lodge a short walk away and book onto a tour and tasting for later in the afternoon, just after the Catamaran was due back.
From having not much planned I’d managed to fill up most of the day in the space of about 10 minutes. I wandered back to the Madeira Film Experience and watched the very interesting film about the island and then headed down to the harbour to pick up the Catamaran.
The key selling point of the tour I went was that it was a much smaller catamaran than the others doing similar tours and had an enclosed cabin in case of inclement weather or rough seas. About 15 minutes after setting out in glorious sunshine it proved its worth as we hit a massive bank of rain with strong winds head on. Several of my fellow passengers didn’t have quite such an enjoyable ride as they spent the next two and a half hours being quite ill.
However, once the rain shower had passed and the seas calmed down a bit it was a very pleasant sail out to the base of Cabo Girão, past Câmera de Lobos. The sail out to the foot of the cliffs had taken nearly two hours and I was concerned that I might not make it back to town in time for the Wine lodge tour and tasting, but the current and winds (and another approaching weather front), helped to speed us back into harbour, arriving on the dot of 3 when we were supposed to arrive.
From the harbour I walked round to the wine lodge and went on a very interesting tour on how Madeira wine is produced, followed by the obligatory tasting of the product.
I wandered back down towards the harbour, and stopped in one of the cafes for a late afternoon drink and a snack as I realised I hadn’t actually had any lunch so far, then I headed down to the open-top bus tour stop to make use of my 48-hour ticket and pick up the penultimate city tour of the day.
I was a bit disappointed as the bus wasn’t properly open-top with a plastic roof in place, but about 10 minutes later when yet another spectacular downpour hit I wasn’t quite so disappointed, or soaked. I did a full circuit back to the harbour and then went for a wander along the seafront down to the Fortaleza de Santiago to have a little look around there and the historic old town part of Funchal.
The old town area is home to many of the city’s restaurants so I decided to have dinner down here, before walking the mile or so back to the hotel and another good night’s sleep
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The aerobus in itself is a great sightseeing tour with it winding its way up into the hills on the edge of the city to reach the main trunk road, and on each switchback offering stunning views over the old town and harbour.
I reached the airport with plenty of time to spare, checked in and headed through security into what is basically a building site. They are clearly in the process of updating the airport, but at the time of visiting it meant there were virtually no facilities and an awful lot of drilling going on.
The plane was very busy, but unlike on arrival where we couldn’t be trusted to walk to the plane and had to be bussed boarding was a quick walk across the tarmac and then onto the steps. I’d held back to be one of the last to board as there didn’t appear to be much point in being in a scrum, and as I had a bulkhead seat my bags would have to go into an overhead locker so I didn’t have to worry about finding space, space would be found!
I was very glad I held back as just as I approached the gate yet another of Madeira’s spectacular showers passed over, soaking people who were standing on the steps trying to board. They decided to call over a bus for the 20 or so of us still in the terminal and rather than walking through the shower and waiting on the steps we were bussed to the bottom of the steps and then allowed up one at a time so that we didn’t have to wait in the rain.
Boarding completed we set off down the runway in a heavily loaded and fully fuelled jet down a runway built on hundreds on concrete pillars over the sea, I’ve never been quite so glad to feel the moment of rotation and us leaving one of the world’s scariest runways intact.
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If my journey through the airport had been painless, the same couldn’t be said of the staff as an IT glitch meant there were no working computers at the gate, and they had to resort to hand writing everyone sequence numbers and surnames down to then cross check off against a print out before dispatching the plane. Despite this, and it being a full flight, we were only about 20 minutes late pushing back and with a quick taxi round the airport were airborne shortly afterwards
A very quick flight later and for some reason landing on the runway closest to the airport and not the one closer to Dover than Amsterdam meant that we were at the gate almost on time, and then it was the usual long walk through the massive D terminal at Schiphol and back to luggage reclaim.
Through the airport relatively quick and down onto the station platform with enough time to make the 11:00 train onto Nijmegen (so only 80 minutes after landing).
I’d forgotten that Dutch InterCity trains differ from their counterparts in the UK and Germany in not being that fast, and it took the full 90 minutes of the schedule for the train to pootle the 80 or Kilometres from Amsterdam to Nijmegen, including a five-minute stop and reverse in Arnhem. Thankfully, the hotel was just outside the station so I was able to check-in and be up in my room before the train had turned round and headed back towards Amsterdam again.
After unpacking I headed out into town, wandering down to the centre and on to the Waal riverside before climbing up into the Valkhofpark, located where the former city fortress used to be. Occupying the high ground in the city (and if you know the Netherlands the concept of high ground is a rarity), it offers good views over the city and the river valley. A couple of the towers and part of the wall remains, but the main remnant of the old fortress is the Sint-Nicolaaskapel which I had a look around.
From the park I wandered back through town to the Grote Markt and after looking round that stopped in one of the many cafes on its sides to have a very late lunch.
Lunch finished I headed back down to the river for desert. The Pancake Boat runs regular 75-minute sightseeing tours along the Waal, but to be honest there is very little to see – either floodplain, industrial areas or docks – so instead of a running commentary or sightseeing the boat offers an unlimited pancake buffet with vast numbers of pancakes being cooked fresh by the on-board chefs to be supplemented by a range of sweet and savoury fillings from the buffet table.
I don’t remember much of the tour, other than feeling very full at the end as I gently waddled off of the boat and headed back towards the hotel.
Having filled up with a late lunch and more pancakes than I’m willing to admit to, and with the sun setting, I took that as a hint to head back to the hotel and attempt to digest my dinner and catch up on my missed sleep by having an early night.
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I wandered through town to the Valkhof museum and spent a very long time looking round it’s exhibits including the spectacular collection of Roman remains that help cement Nijmegen’s claim to be The Netherlands oldest City and the large collection of Pop Art in the basement (it’s that kind of museum)
There aren’t very many attractions in Nijmegen and the only other museum – the bicycle museum – is open on a Monday so I was saving that back for tomorrow. Having exhausted my list of places to visit in town for the day I headed back towards the station and on my way passed a bus stop showing a bus into the neighbouring city of Arnhem due in a couple of minutes’ time, so I decided to go for a bus ride through the Gelderland countryside.
The other reason for visiting Arnhem is that it is the twin city of my home town Croydon so I was interested to see what the place looked like. To be honest, I wasn’t particularly surprised that it was twinned with Croydon the only difference being the destruction of Arnhem’s town centre was an act of war, rather than the act of counsellors.
Having taken in most of Arnhem I headed over to the station to catch the train back into Nijmegen and then onto the city of Venlo to have a look round there.
Venlo had even less to commend it than Arnhem, but it did have a couple of decent restaurants so I had dinner in the centre of town before catching the bus back up the opposite side of the river from the train watching the sun slowly start to set as we finally approached Nijmegen.
I had a quick drink in the hotel bar before turning in for the evening.
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On a sunny warm day, the park was quite busy, despite it being a normal working day. I had a long wander round before heading over towards the centre of town and wandering up to the main church – St Stevens.
The Church and its tower dominate the city skyline, particularly from the river so I took advantage of the church tower being open on a Monday morning to climb to the top and take in the excellent views over the city and beyond. It’s also very easy to see the change in landscape that made Nijmegen such an important location in times gone by with the land to the West flat as far as the eye can see, but to the East hills starting to form.
Having taken in the views from the top of the tower I descended back down to street level and had a look around inside the quite plane and austere church before wandering over into the Grote Markt for a quick lunch.
Lunch completed I headed down to the riverside and had a quick look around the Bicycle museum before it was time to head back to the hotel, collect my stuff and start the long journey back home.
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I’d gone for an early train as I wanted to make sure I made it in time, but because I’d left so much time everything worked perfectly including the bus sailing through the centre of town from Victoria to Paddington, so I was at the station with more than 90 minutes to spare before the train left.
Paddington on the Friday evening is always a busy place, add in that it was a Bank Holiday weekend, and the start of the school half term holidays and it was clear that the concourse was close to capacity with tempers appearing to fray everywhere as people without reserved seats made mad dashes for the gates whenever a train was announced to avoid having to stand for hours on end.
Thankfully I had a reserved seat, and by careful use of the internet knew that my train would be leaving from Platform 10, so was able to be by the gates as they were released to let us onto the platform. As I got comfortable in my seat the great swarm of fellow passengers surged down the platform packing the train out, and it remained that way for nearly an hour until we reached Newbury.
As the trains were so full, and with extra ones laid on to help alleviate the crowding, it was inevitable that there would be congestion leaving Paddington and by the time we reached Reading we were already the best part of 15 minutes late, time that we didn’t make up as we meandered our way South West by virtually every station.
I now knew why the ticket I had purchased had seen so much cheaper than the one for the train just 8 minutes earlier, that one was second stop Exeter, this one as something like 9th or 10th stop Exeter.
By the time we finally pulled into the station it was long past 10pm and I was knackered so instead of hefting my luggage up the steep hill to the hotel I cheated and caught a cab.
I checked into the hotel and almost as soon as I’d made it to the room turned in for the night.
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Having looked around some visible remains of Exeter’s past my next stop was some slightly more hidden remains in the form of the Underground passages that were originally built to ensure that the pipes that fed fresh water to the cathedral and later the city could be maintained without the need to keep digging up the road – what a crazy idea. The passages survived for their original purpose into the very beginning of the 20th century and have since had a life as an air-raid shelter. They’ve been a tourist attraction since the 1930s and are now open for regular tours.
After taking the tour and having a look around the interesting museum I stopped for a quick bite to eat before wandering down through the town, past the Cathedral and the remains of the Medieval Exe Bridge now left abandoned as the course of the river has been changed, and down to the historic Quay side to have a look around.
Whilst down there I saw a sign for a cruise down the Exe to the Double locks – at this point the river was one of the first in the world to be Canalised as needed a couple of locks to get ships from the sea up to the city centre – so I decided to pick up the boat. The route is interesting as in a number of occasions a member of the crew has to hop out, close off both ends of a bridge, unlock it and then swing it round to allow the ship to pass through, before repeating the process in reverse to allow people access back across the river.
The cruise ended at the Double Locks, which is now also a very conveniently and picturesquely sited pub, so I stopped there for a quick drink before the mile and a half or so back into town.
By now most of the sites in the city centre were either closed or about to close, but I still had several hours of light left so I headed over to the Central station and picked up a train out along the coast to the small station at Dawlish Warren.
Between Dawlish Warren and Dawlish, the Great Western Railway, and more importantly Brunel, undertook one of the most impressive, but also idiotic, builds. The railway runs along the top of the sea wall, which makes for stunning photos as trains are lashed by pounding waves – and on a lovely balmy spring evening makes for a lovely walk – but finally proved to not be indestructible in February 2014 when a large section was swept away and the whole of Southern Devon and all of Cornwall was cut off from the national rail network. The walk is very pleasant, with a slight climb at the start over the edge of Red Rock, but then a flat and level walk between the sea and the railway all the way into Dawlish.
By the time I got to Dawlish I’d built up a bit of an appetite so I stopped for dinner there before catching the last direct train of the night back to Exeter Central and the welcome sight of my bed to rest my now very weary feet and legs.
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Arriving at Okehampton I headed out of the station and walked down the quite long hill into town, thinking as I went that I was going to have to do this in reverse later in the day, and then onto the ruins of the impressive Okehampton Castle, located a bit further out of town.
The castle can trace its history back to shortly after the Norman invasion and was in use right up until the point the family who owned it ended up on the wrong side of Henry VIII and his executioner.
I had a long wander around the castle taking in the ruins as well as the stunning views up onto Dartmoor before realising it was time to head back to the station if I didn’t want to spend another 4 hours in the town, which whilst it looks very pretty, probably didn’t have enough to keep me entertained for that length of time.
Back in Exeter I had a quick lunch and tried to decide what to do next. I could have visited the city’s museum as this was my only chance, with it being closed on a Monday, but in the end the weather made up my mind as it was just too hot and too sunny to spent it inside a museum, so I headed back to Exeter Central station and picked up the train down to the coast at Exmouth.
Unfortunately, almost everyone else in Exeter appeared to have had the same idea, and to make matters worse the previous train had been cancelled, so the already full train when it pulled in was rammed full by the time it left and then only proceeded to get fuller at all the following stations – accompanied by increasingly ignored pleas from the guard for everyone to move down inside the train so that everyone could get on.
Eventually, having taken closer to an hour rather than the 40 minutes it should have taken, we arrived at Exmouth and I headed down through the town to have a look around and take in the much more pleasant and refreshing sea air.
The beach itself was heaving, and the queues for the Ice Cream kiosks were horrific, but thankfully I’d spotted that there was a local open-top bus service so I used that to take in the key sights of the town.
I spent some time in Exmouth before finally jamming myself back onto another packed train back to Exeter. Back in Exeter I grabbed a bit to eat and had a look around the city centre in the peace and tranquillity of the late evening, before heading back to the hotel for a quick drink in the bar and then bed.
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Carefully avoiding the pagan festivities outside, I headed inside the Cathedral to have a look around. The cathedral is pretty impressive from the outside and inside it’s no different with its stunning roof and light interior.
The biggest attraction inside, though, appeared to be the attempt to fund raise by building a Lego replica of the Cathedral. 300,000 bricks at £1 per brick is a good way of encouraging the public to give. Given the small elements of the cathedral that were built I hoped that it had only been going for a very short period of time.
By the time I’d looked round the cathedral it was lunchtime so I stopped for a quick bite to eat and a look at what to do to fill up my last couple of hours in the city, given that all of the museums were closed for the Bank Holiday. I decided to go for the cheap cruise option across the Exe Estuary.
The cheap tour option is to use the public ferry that runs between Starcross station and Exmouth hourly during the summer months. I headed over to the bus station and picked up the bus out to Starcross and changed there onto the ferry.
With the light breeze it was very pleasant to be sailing across the bottom of the Exe on a lovely sunny day and there was quite a lot to see as this end of the river is very busy with moored boats and people generally messing about on the river.
Over in Exmouth I had a bit of a wander round before heading over to the bus stop and picking up the bus back into Exeter.
Back in Exeter I only had about an hour left to kill so I headed for a coffee shop for a quick shot of caffeine to keep me going for the near 4-hour train ride home.
Caffeinated up I headed back to the hotel, picked up my luggage and made my way down the hill to Exeter St David’s station to pick up the train back towards London and home.
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Not that it made much of a difference as the incoming flight had been delayed leaving Trondheim on its way into London and so we didn’t start to board until after we should have departed. Everyone boarded quickly and the doors were soon closed and the plane being pushed back. Unfortunately, it wasn’t for us to depart but for us to be towed off the stand to make room for another aircraft and dumped on the airfield as the next available blot wasn’t for another half an hour.
So, over an hour late we finally headed down the runway and off towards Norway with an estimated arrival time of tomorrow.
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However, on reaching my room I found that it had been used during the day and not cleaned with dead coffee cups, empty drinks bottles and litter all over the room, so wearily, as I’d quite like to have turned in, I headed back down to reception to complain.
I was told that there were no other free rooms in the hotel, so I then had to wait another 20 minutes whilst a member of staff gave the room a clean including fresh bedding, though they still didn’t clear up all the rubbish. Eventually, just after 1am I got into my room and went straight to bed.
I had a bit of a lie-in and a late breakfast before packing, checking out and heading down to the Flybussen stop to catch the coach into town.
From the bus stop it was a short walk over to the hotel where I was able to check-in straight away and barely an hour after leaving the last hotel room I was in the new one.
Having dropped off my stuff I headed out for a wander around town taking in the key sights, as well as stopping off at the tourist information centre to pick up some guides.
By now it was gone three so I headed back to the hotel for the complementary afternoon pancakes and coffee before heading back out, fortified, for the steep climb up to the city’s small fortress sitting above the centre.
I spent a long time wandering around the grounds, and stopping off for a quick beer in the very nice café next to the main fortress building, so by the time I’d walked back down to town dinner was already being served at the hotel.
After dinner I had a little bit more of a wander in the area immediately around the hotel, before heading back to my room to sleep
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After breakfast I headed out into town and picked up the tram to take me out to a country park on the outskirts of town. The tram is officially the most northern in the world and the ride – climbing out of the city and up into the hills – is worth it in itself.
I had a wander around the country park, but the large lake ensured that there were a large number of flying things that made walking around it slightly unpleasant as you were constantly trying to flap them away.
I headed back to the tram stop and returned back into town in time for a quite bite to eat before heading down to the fish market to pick up the afternoon sightseeing tour round the harbour and out to Munkholmen.
The tour was very interesting taking in the top part of the river, the harbour, former U-boat pens and ship building yards before heading out across the Trondheimsfjorden to go past Munkholmen before returning to the city.
The tour completed I headed back to the hotel to catch the end of the afternoon pancakes before heading back out for a bit of a wander around town to rebuild up an appetite for the free evening dinner.
After dinner I had a bit more of a wander before returning to my room and making another vain attempt to get a decent night’s sleep.
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I picked up the regular shuttle boat that takes you out to Munkholmen, the small island about 2Km off of the city centre in the Trondheimsforden that has acted as fortress and prison and today is a pleasant place to spend a couple of hours – and some of the locals even use it as a place to go swimming from.
The boat took around 15 minutes to cross the quite choppy fjord to the island. After disembarking I had a wander around the outside of the fortress before heading inside and joining a tour of the former prison that takes up the bulk of the island.
The tour was very interesting giving quite a lot of history of the island and the fortress that was built here before it was converted into a prison. Following the tour, I had a wander around the grounds of the fortress before stopping for an early afternoon coffee in the very nice café in the grounds.
I had a bit of a wander along the beach that makes up one end of the island before the boat arrived and then headed back into the city.
Later in the evening, after dinner, I went for a walk along the pathway running next to the fjord between the station and the site of the former city walls as Skansen.
Then it was back to the hotel for a final attempted night’s sleep.
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After breakfast I headed out of the hotel and over to the Nidaros Cathedral to take in the museums and sights there.
The cathedral is the most important religious site in the country – the Norwegian equivalent of Westminster Abbey – and is the cathedral in which the coronation of Norwegian Kings and Queens is conducted in. Consequently, the neighbouring Arch Bishops Palace museums house a number of interesting exhibits, including the Norwegian Crown Jewels.
A large part of the Arch Bishops palace was destroyed in a fire in the 1980’s and the museum in the rebuilt buildings house many fragments of the former building.
Having taken in the museums I headed into the Cathedral itself to have a look around and also to climb the 170+ steps to the base of the spire from where I was able to take in some stunning views over the city and the Fjord.
By now it was fast approaching 3pm so I headed back to the hotel to pack my bag, check out and head back out to the airport to start my journey home.
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I was looking forward to my night in the hotel, partly as it was a relatively early flight from Stansted, but mostly because the hotel boasted air conditioning and the previous few nights had been so unpleasantly close and humid that I hadn’t slept properly.
An uneventful journey across town and up to Liverpool Street and then onto Stansted where I transferred onto the shuttle bus to the hotel.
After checking in and finding that my room was beautifully cold, I headed out to grab a bit to eat for dinner from the neighbouring M&S Simply Food and headed back to my room with my picnic.
Given the lack of sleep from the previous evenings I turned in early and with the air conditioning working overtime had to actually snuggle down in the duvet.
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My previous experiences of Ryanair haven’t been great and I hadn’t used them for 7 years or so – during which they had reached their most penny pinching and obnoxious, however this was apparently new Ryanair so I was willing to give them another chance.
Through check-in smoothly and quickly and the same for security and out into departures with around 40 minutes to spare before the gate was due to be announced. I stopped for a quick coffee and a read of my book before the gate number flicked up on the screen.
10-minute walk later and I arrived at the gate, which was already very busy with customers in long queues – which is odd as even Ryanair now assign seats so it wasn’t for the scrum for the best seats (I’d booked far in advance and paid the extra to ensure that I’d already bagged the best seat on the flight). The inbound flight pulled up at the gate and in the smooth precision that is Ryanair the previous passengers were off and we were boarding within 10 minutes. We were all on and ready to go five minutes before our scheduled departure time when the captain announced that there would be an air-traffic control delay.
After nearly 40 minutes of waiting we were finally on our way and it was an uneventful flight over to Lodz. A quick journey through the airport and into a cab into town.
I checked into the hotel, dropped off my stuff and then headed out into town for a long wander. I slowly walked up the main pedestrianised street taking in the different sights, and, given it was already late afternoon, I stopped for a pre-dinner drink.
Wandering further up I ended up by the Plac Wolnosci at the end of the street, by which point I realised that all the bars and restaurants had run out – so after a quick look around here I headed back down the street and found a nice restaurant for dinner.
Dinner completed I walked back down to the hotel and had a quick night cap in the bar before turning in for the evening.
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My destination for the morning was Manufaktura – a large retail and leisure park at the North end of town. This may appear an odd place to head, but it is one of the highlights of the city and its new beating heart.
Lodz was a village of some 500 people at the start of the 19th Century. By the outbreak of the Second World War the population was the other side of 600,000 and it was all down to the linen mills that built up around the city. The largest, and most elegant one, was built by Izrael Posnanski and included multiple mill buildings, laboratories, workers housing and his own palatial palace. From the grand days of the late 19th Century the 20th was less kind and eventually the company that had taken on the mills after the collapse of communism itself collapsed and the site fell into ruin. At the turn of the 21st Century the site was regenerated into a leisure and shopping district housing museums, cafes, bars, cinemas and other attractions. The centre of the site was turned into the largest Rynek in Poland.
Rynek’s are the ancient medieval market squares at the heart of the old towns of all of Poland’s major cities (or at least those that existed as cities in the medieval period), so prior to the opening of Manufactura Lodz hadn’t had one.
My first stop of the morning was to the museum of the factory – located in one of the former office buildings – that houses an exhibition on the history of the site from its founding to its regeneration. I also took advantage of the add-on ticket to climb up onto the roof for views across the site with a good information board giving key details about the buildings and what they were used for.
Across the site and in one of the later buildings to be added – a three storey mill – is the ms2 museum, part of the city’s art gallery and dedicated to their collection of 20th and 21st century modern and contemporary art. I had a bit of a wander around that before stopping off for lunch in one of the restaurants on the site.
From Manufaktura I walked the short distance back to Plac Wolnosci where I joined a tour of one of the more interesting sites in the city – the sewer that runs underneath the giant roundabout. The sewer itself isn’t actually a functioning sewer, it was used in the early days as a place to store large volumes of water that could then be flushed down into the sewers of the streets leading off of the square – including the main North-South road through the city. The interesting tour did a full loop of the gloriously cool sewer before returning to the surface.
Part of the reason for going on the tour was to get out of the oppressive heat of the day which I returned to after the tour. I walked down the main street from Plac Wolnosci until I found a pleasant look (and very cheap) bar and stopped there under the shade and with a cold beer relaxing for some time.
After the beer I headed back to the hotel for a little while to get out of the heat, before heading back up to Manufaktura for dinner in a very nice restaurant I’d spotted earlier in the day.
I overdosed on Pierogi’s (Polish dumplings) and so ended up leaving the hotel feeling very full, consequently I didn’t feel like running for the tram and ended up having to wait 10 minutes for the next one back down to my hotel and bed.
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Having looked round the museum I picked up the tram out to the north of the city centre and the former railway station at Radegast.
In the 4.5 square kilometres between the site of the Izrael’s factory and the station at Radegast the Nazi’s created the second largest Jewish ghetto, which included a section for Gypsies. When time came for the Nazi’s to liquidate the ghetto and send the innocent residents to their deaths it was from Radegast station that they were loaded onto cattle wagons and sent to the gas chambers or Chelmno and Auschwitz.
Today the station is a memorial to those who lived and died in the Ghetto and in the gas chambers. On a desk in the former station building are thick folders that have facsimiles of the lists that were drawn up showing the names of all the people to be deported to their deaths – the sheer size and number of the folders (and they only represent a fraction of the victims) is horrific, as are the example Cattle wagons that are sat in the station as if awaiting their next consignment.
After looking round the site I was intending on wandering back through the former ghetto site, but something made me decide to walk back to the tram stop and I’m glad I did as within 10 minutes a torrential downpour started. It was so heavy that I thought it couldn’t last that long and by the tram made it back into the city centre it would have calmed down, but I was wrong and by the time the tram reached near the hotel it was, if anything, more intense. Rather than dashing for the hotel and getting soaked to the skin I, instead, headed for the closer shopping centre.
45 minutes later, after the worse of the thunderstorm had passed over, the rain was still chucking it down and I realised that I was going to be stuck in the centre for a long time if I didn’t just brave the 70 or so meter walk across the hotel I could be stuck there for hours so, with a slight reduction in the intensity of the rain, I made a dash for it. I got to within 20 meters of the hotel when the rain picked up its intensity again and by the time I reached the cover of the hotel I was soaked.
I squelched up to my room and, after a very warm shower, changed into some dry clothes. I decided to sit out the storm in my room, which by 7pm meant sitting it out in the onsite restaurant as the rain, which had been chucking it down for four hours by now, showed no sign of easing off.
After dinner in the restaurant I headed back to my room and looked out of the window to see that the rain was finally starting to ease off – a little too late to do much with it, so instead I watched a bit of TV before turning in for an early night.
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As the morning drizzle had stopped I headed over to the tram stop and caught the tram back out to the top of the former Jewish Ghetto and went for a walk around the old Jewish Cemetery.
The Cemetery houses many of those who didn’t survive the ghetto, as well as generations of the Jewish population of Lodz that helped turn the small village into the thriving city it was by the outbreak of World War II.
Extensive works had taken place near the entrance to tidy up the cemetery and undo the years of neglect that fell across the site following the end of the war, but as you go further into the site it returns more to the wild state that anywhere left unattended for nearly 70 years will return to.
After having a wander around, it was time to catch the bus back to the hotel, collect my bags and start the journey back home.
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After checking in I had an early dinner got an alarm call set for 5:30, given the last time I’d caught the Saturday morning Basel flight my phone had failed to charge overnight had gone flat and therefore it was only because I woke up in time that I, in a slightly stressed manner, made my flight.
With everything set I turned in for an early night’s sleep.
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A smooth journey through the airport, flight and journey through the airport at the other side had me waiting for the bus to Freiburg that I originally thought it wasn’t going to be possible to catch.
Consequently, I was in Freiburg earlier than I thought I would be, and even after stopping off at the tourism office to pick up a Freiburg Welcome Card – giving me free use of the public transport in the whole region, it was still too early for the hotel to cope with as they didn’t have a room ready for me. I was able to leave my luggage in the storage room, but still had a fair amount in my back pack that I didn’t have an opportunity to get rid of, so had to lug around town for the afternoon – in some pretty warm temperatures.
After a bit of wandering around town I eventually found a shop selling drinks and quenched a massive thirst before sitting down to plan what to do. I decided that as it was so hot in the city centre it might be a little cooler up in the mountains so I headed out to pick up the cable car up into the mountains surrounding the city, that was included free in the Welcome Card.
A short tram and bus ride later it was obvious that a lot of people had the same idea as me as the cable car was very busy with lots of people in the queue. It meant the full load of 7 people were being packed into each gondolier, but it did mean that a pretty long queue was being cleared very quickly
The cable car is quite long, with a very steep climb up to the summit, taking around 10 minutes to make the journey. At the top the weather was still gloriously sunny, but a cooling breeze made if feel quite a bit cooler than it was down in town – though it was at this point that I remembered that the of course my sunblock was still down in my suitcase in the hotel, so I needed to make sure I kept in the shade as much as possible.
After having a walk around the top area for a bit I headed over to the very nice looking restaurant built above the top station and had a light lunch and a cold beer, during which a text finally arrived from the hotel saying that my room was ready.
Having soaked up a little bit of sun and finished my late lunch I caught the cable car back down the mountain, the bus back to the tram stop and the tram all the way back to my hotel where I was able to check in, unpack and have a lovely cooling shower.
Once some of the heat of the day had finally died down – so that it was only in the mid-twenties as dusk arrived – I headed out into town for a bit of a wander before grabbing a bite to eat and then returning to the hotel
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The train headed out to the South East of the city and after climbing through the mountains and passing the Titisee (and yes, it is pronounced in a way to raise titters from the English speakers) weaved its away along the hills to the area around the Feldberg, the highest point in the Black Forrest.
I got off at Bärental station where I picked up the bus to the base station of the Feldbergbahn cable car which climbs the last couple of hundred feet up to the summit, and the viewing tower.
I took in the views from both the summit and the top of the tower before descending to take a look around the Black Forrest Ham museum located on the 1st floor of the tower.
Back down at the base station I picked the bus up back to Bärental station and continued on down the line to the town of Schluchsee, which is on the banks of the lake of the same name. Here I picked up a lake cruise boat that did a full tour around the lake, taking just over the hour. Back at Schluchsee I had a bit of a wander around before catching the train on one more stop to the end of the line at Seebrugg.
I had a little bit of a look around Seebrugg before picking the train back up and heading back to Freiburg. I was quite glad I’d gone onto Seebrugg as, whilst there wasn’t much to see there, it did mean I had the choice of seats coming back, whereas by the time the train left Schluchsee it was already full and standing.
I was sat on the opposite side of the train from the way out and so got to see more of the scenery, which was pretty impressive, with the railway and road threading their way through a thin mountain pass and gorge on their way down towards Freiburg.
Back in town I had dinner in a restaurant near the Münster before heading back to the hotel, intending to have a drink in the bar, only to find out that the hotel bar was closed (along with their restaurant) due to short staffing – so instead I grabbed a bottle of fizzy water out of the vending machine and sat on my balcony for a little while before turning in.
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I started by heading over the road to the neighbouring Stadtpark and from there picking up the funicular train up the Schloßberg hill that overlooks the city centre.
At the top I had a long walk around taking in the views of the city and the vineyards growing on the side of the hill before catching the funicular back down into town and heading over to the Münster.
The Münster is the dominant building on the city skyline with its spire dominating most views of the city. Inside it’s quite a dark church and was very busy with tourists.
Back out of the Münster I headed over to the two remaining gates of the city – now highly decorated and acting as other key points on the city skyline.
I headed back in the direction of the hotel and stopped off at a very nice tapas bar for a late lunch before wandering back over to the hotel, collecting my bags and heading over to the station to pick up the bus back to the airport over the German/French border in Mulhouse.
I arrived on the French side of the airport only to find that my flight was checking in on the Swiss side so I had to walk through an (unstaffed) customs post and cross yet another international border just to checkin.
Bags dropped I headed up through security and back through the same international border into the French half of the airport to wait for my flight back to the UK.
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At 17:35 a text came through from Norwegian welcoming me on board the 19:35 flight, followed a couple of minutes later by another one telling me that the flight was now delayed until 22:30. What had already been a late arrival into Gothenburg got later, and the chances of making the last bus from the airport – that I’d already paid for – started to shrink.
There was no further news for another three hours until just after half 8 when the delay started to creep up in 20 minute intervals, every 20 minutes or so. At this point I bit the bullet and booked for a taxi to meet me at the airport as the arrival time was now past the time of the last bus at 1am.
Eventually, after several passengers had pestered the handling agent enough, they admitted that the plane was on the tarmac at Gothenburg with a fault that was still being fixed. Around 10pm the plane finally took off from Gothenburg and began its journey into Gatwick.
Every other plane of the evening had left and any reminder of it had been cleared from the departures board in the lounge with the exception of ours – still showing Await Gate Information.
Finally, just after 23:30 we received the long awaited gate number and what was left of the passenger population of the departures lounge headed down to gate 16.
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A thankfully uneventful flight landed us at a near deserted Gothenburg airport around 3:15 in the morning. By the time I’d picked up my luggage and walked through the empty customs hall to arrivals it was gone 03:30. The other thing that was gone was the taxi driver. With no sign of them I had to join the very long queue, so by the time I finally arrived at the hotel it was fast approaching 5am.
Thankfully, the hotel I had booked did a very speedy check-in and their beautiful comfy bead had me drifting off within a couple of minutes of my head hitting the pillow.
I woke up, feeling fine around 4 hours later at 9 and decided that I might as well not lose any more of the trip so I got up, had a lovely shower and a very filling breakfast before heading out into the city.
My first stop was, naturally, the open-top bus tour which, due to it being the end of the season, was only running on the Saturday, and then only 4 journeys. I did two full circuits, one on each side, taking in the sights of the city – which was much prettier than I expected the city to be – given it’s the largest port in Scandinavia.
Back at the starting point I wandered over to the Trädgårdsföreningen a series of gardens run by the local garden society that includes a pretty impressive palm house and a large rose garden. On a warm sunny Saturday, the whole area was very busy but also still lovely and peaceful.
I had a long look around the gardens and then walked on down to the Centralstation where I picked up the heritage tram that runs through the city centre to take in some of the sights from a museum vehicle.
After doing the circuit of the tram route I headed down to the harbour area to have a look around, and after purchasing a 24-hour travel card, took one of the ferry services that runs down the Göta älv, the river running through the heart of the city, to take in the views from the water. I’d timed it just right as on the journey back the sun was starting to set lending a beautiful orange hue to the buildings.
Back in the city centre I found a restaurant for a quick dinner. Whilst sat down for dinner the lack of sleep and busy day really started to catch up with me, so after finishing dinner I grabbed a tram back to the hotel for a well-deserved early night.
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First stop of the morning was the aquarium and maritime museum located a couple of tram stops south of the hotel. I had a long look around these before picking up the tram again and heading round to the Natural History Museum.
The museum looks like a very traditional museum, with lots of exhibits in wooden cases down long corridor exhibition spaces, and the vast number of stuffed animals does make it more resemble a killing field than a museum, but given the age of the museum you have to kind of accept that’s how things were done back then.
I had a wander back through the large park that the museum is located in to pick up the tram from the opposite side of the park back into town, where I joined the penultimate boat tour of the canals for the afternoon.
After the very interesting tour it was time to head back to the hotel, pack my bags, and head on out to the airport.
I had over four hours till my flight and I had originally planned to stop in the city centre for dinner before heading out to the airport, but for some reason I decided to head straight for the airport bus and whilst I was on it check my flight. At this point it was already badly delayed and I started to get the impression that I might not be flying back to Gatwick any time soon.
By the time I got to the airport the delay had increased so I asked a lady on the Norwegian check-in desk what the chances of the flight actually arriving were. As she worked for a handling agent rather than the airline she was able to be a little more candid with me than a Norwegian employee would probably have been and advised that the chances of leaving tonight would be 50/50 at best, given the flight had never been less than an hour late all year.
Deciding it wasn’t worth the risk I headed over to the ticket counter for British Airways to enquire about the chances of getting onto their flight. The very helpful lady there said there were still a fair number of seats but my best bet would be to book a return flight online, with the return leg really far in the future as that would be cheaper by a couple of thousand kroner.
I checked online and as she’d described a single flight was nearly 4,000Kr but a return flight was a little over 2,000Kr so I booked the plane for 2 and a half hours’ time and a return leg at the end of June 2017 and then wandered back into the airport to the BA desk to check-in.
Through into departures, and a little while later the inevitable announcement that the Norwegian flight had been cancelled came over the Tannoy, and a short while later a text from Norwegian telling me that my flight was now 2pm the following afternoon (that flight was subsequently delayed and didn’t leave until gone 9pm, 23 hours after the original departure time). It was with a great sense of relief that I relaxed into the comfort of my BA seat at the plane pushed back on time and headed me back towards London.
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A smooth journey through the airport and a bumpy flight later I was in Pisa and after catching the bus into town walked the short distance to the hotel where I dropped off my stuff and headed out into town.
I walked up through the city centre, across the Arno river and on into the older part of the city, heading for the main attraction of the town the Cathedral and its infamous bell tower. However, before I reached them I realised that I was actually quite hungry so I stopped in one of the restaurants near the tower for a very late lunch/early dinner.
Sated I headed on to the cathedral square to start having a look around the key sights of Pisa.
I’d pre-purchased a ticket, which included an early evening ascent of the tower so I started off by visiting one of the museums before starting on the main buildings, taking advantage of the early evening departure of all the day trippers from Florence to have a lot of the sites quietly to myself.
I looked around the impressive Camposanto and the Baptistery before heading over to the Cathedral to lo around that.
By the time I left the cathedral it was time to head over to the luggage office to hand my bag in and then head over to the tower to start my ascent
I’d timed my ticket to make sure I’d be at the top of the tower at sunset and I wasn’t disappointed. As most of the day trippers had gone there were only about 20 people at the top of the tower to watch the sun turn the sky orange and then deep red as it descended behind the old city walls.
Having watched the sun go down I headed back down the tower and spent a bit of time wandering around the site in the dusk, being able to take phots without hordes of tourists getting in the way. I then wandered back through town, stopping for a late evening drink in the old town before walking back over to the hotel.
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From the station I walked the short distance to the gateway into town and up onto the walls. The best way to see much of the city is from the top of the walls, so I did a full circuit which took around 2 hours to complete once I’d kept getting diverted off to take photos and explore some of the bastions.
Back at the start point, behind the Cathedral, and I turned to head into the city centre. I was just intending on having a wander around to see where I ended up and without even trying managed to find myself in the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro.
The Piazza is built on the site of the former Roman amphitheatre and some of the entrance arches are supposedly the originals. You can certainly still make out the shape of the space from the buildings. As it’s one of the key sights in the city it was pretty busy, but I managed to find a table at one of the restaurants on the square to have a long lunch and watch all the other tourists go by.
After a very good lunch I headed out of the square having a bit more of a wander stopping off at the Basilica di San Frediano to have a look around there before finding myself at the Orto Botanico where I had a wander around the gardens.
The ticket for the Botanical Gardens also included access to one of the towers of the city the Torre Guinigi, easily identified across the city by the trees growing out of the top of it. As I’d paid for the ticket it would seem wrong not to climb it, especially as the wide and shallow stairs most of the way up make for an easy climb. I was glad I did as the views from the top were excellent with the Tuscan hills creating an amazing backdrop to the city.
Back down on ground level I wandered over towards the Cathedral and had a look around that, resisting the temptation to climb their tower, before stopping off at a small bar in the square overlooking the cathedral for an early evening drink.
By now there were the first hints of rain in the air with a few spots occasionally appearing on the pavement, and feeling quite tired from all the walking, I made my way back to the station arriving there just a couple of minutes before a heft shower went through.
Back in Pisa I walked back to the hotel through a light drizzle. Just as I made it back to the hotel the rain started to increase and once inside it spent the next few hours being quite wet. Thankfully I was still stuffed from lunch so decided just to have an early night.
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I wandered through the city centre to the river and then walked down stream for a while, taking in the views of the palazzos on both sides of the river. I had a quick look around the stunning Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina on the banks of the river before continuing on down to where the old city walls met the river by the Citadel.
I had a look around the old canal and remains of the city wall on the South side of the river before crossing over the Arno and following the city walls up on the North bank until they came to the cathedral area.
The difference between the site in the early evening on a Friday and lunchtime on a Sunday was remarkable, with the whole space heaving with tourists – many of them partaking in the photo opportunity of appearing to be either supporting or knocking over the leaning tower.
I had a wander through the area, but it was so busy with tourists that I decided to head away down the first side street I could find towards the botanical gardens – my actual destination for the afternoon.
Unfortunately, the gardens had just reverted to their winter opening times which meant they were closed on a Sunday. With that plan thwarted I instead headed back towards the centre of town and went for a large lunch instead.
Sometime later, and feeling very full, I headed back towards the cathedral and continued my walk along the old city walls.
After a while it was time to start heading back, thankfully I’d already thought that I would be some way from the train station when I decided to start heading back so had picked up a bus ticket in advance, meaning the bus made the 3KM journey back to the station rather than having to walk it.
I picked up my luggage from the left luggage office and made my way back over to the PisaMover replacement bus (the new airport shuttle railway which had been due to open in December 2015, and was definitely going to be open by the end of September 2016 still a bus service on the second day of October) back to the airport and my flight home.
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I’d booked the Yotel cabin hotel at the airport so headed straight there to checkin before grabbing some dinner in the airport.
As I had an early start I turned in early.
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I’d forgotten quite how busy Gatwick is at that hour of the morning as there is a mass of flights all leaving between 5 and 7, so the departures lounge was very busy. Thankfully it wasn’t very long before we got a gate for the flight – mostly because it was one of the bus gates and they wanted to corral everyone early to ensure they made the flight on time, consequently I was on a bus and heading to the plane whist all the clocks still started with a 5.
We ended up being delayed for around 20 minutes on the tarmac due to air traffic control restrictions, but after that it was an easy journey – if at times quite bumpy – down to the North of Greece and a smooth if quite slow transit through the airport. The same could be said for the bus into town with the first part of the journey being quite quick until it hit Thessaloniki Friday lunchtime traffic and crawled through the city centre.
I’d landed just after midday, but by the time I got to the hotel it was gone 2:30 so I was hopeful I would be able to quickly checkin and head back out into the city, but the hotel still hadn’t got a room ready for me and I had to wait another 15 minutes before I was actually able to check in, drop my stuff off and walk into town.
I headed down to the waterfront and headed along the side of the harbour towards the city centre and onto the White Tower at the Eastern edge of the old city.
I had a bit of a wander around the area before picking up the last open-top tour bus of the day to take in the key sights of the city, returning back to the White Tower around 75 minutes later.
As it was still open I visited the exhibition in the White Tower on the history and development of the city located over the floors of the tower, before taking in the views over the port and surrounding city from the top of the tower.
Back down at ground level I wandered over to one of the boat tours that head off for a quick circuit of the harbour. The tours are free, so long as you purchase at least one of their over-priced drinks (but at €5 for a tour of the harbour and a large cold beer you can’t really complain)
Having completed the tour, I wandered back through town looking for somewhere to eat, before finally finding a very nice Armenian restaurant set off of a small square. I had a very nice and very filling dinner and completely sated I gently waddled the mile or so back to the hotel and an early night to compensate for the very early start.
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I had a long wander around the fortified upper town taking in much of walls and the towers and eventually making my way up to the fortress at the very top of the hill. Unfortunately, the fortress is only open Tuesday to Friday and then only 8-3 so I wasn’t going to have a chance to look around inside, but I had a wander around the edge before heading back towards the bus stop.
I caught the bus down to the next stop at the vast archaeological complex of the Galerius Palace that stretches underneath the city streets for hundreds of metres. Above ground there are only a few visible elements with the Galerius Arch and the Rotonta being the most visible and the first I had a look around.
I then wandered back down through the complex stopping off at the interpretation centre and then having a wander around the edge of the palace buildings which have been uncovered further down the road. As I was wandering around I walked past a run of nice looking restaurants, so I took the opportunity to have a very late, and very filling lunch, before staggering back off to complete my walk past the palace remains.
I eventually wandered down to the end of the complex on the waterfront and as there was one waiting to go out took one of the last open-top tour buses of the evening for a final tour round.
Dropped back at the White Tower I had a bit of a wander around before stopping off in a café to grab a very light bite to eat. With my belly full again I set off on the long walk back across town to my tiny hotel room.
I put the keycard into my room door and it flashed red, which it then proceeded to do on the three times I checked. Clearly my card had wiped itself during the day, or hadn’t been programmed correctly, so I headed back down to reception to get it re-programmed.
It turned out that the reason my card wasn’t working was because that was no longer my room. My string of tweets to the Hotel company had clearly had way more effect than the letting off steam I had intended them on having and the manager was very happy to hand me a new keycard to a much bigger room.
I moved my stuff between rooms and then headed down to the bar for a nightcap before turning in for the night in my much, much larger bed.
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When I got there a service was still in full swing so I had to wait a little time before I could go in, along with a large number of other tourists, so by the time the congregation exited there were an equal number waiting to get in and it was a bit of a crush to look around.
From the church it was a short walk down the hill to the ancient agora and Roman Forum. This is one of the largest exposed archaeological sites in the city centre and has significant parts of a theatre and some of the market area open to look around.
Having taken in the agora I walked a little further, through one of the city markets where a number of restaurants were already open for lunch with beautiful smells emanating, and onto the city’s most important church – Agia Sofia – I had a long look around this spectacular Byzantine church, which thankfully wasn’t too busy with tourists.
After looking around the church I decided that breakfast had been a long time ago so I backtracked to one of the restaurants in the market for a very nice lunch.
From the market I continued my walk across town and onto the Archaeological museum located near the White Tower. There was a lot to see in the museum and I thought I was going to struggle to see everything before they closed at 3 – but it turned out that they were still on their summer timetable and were staying open to 5 so I didn’t have to rush round.
Located just being the Archaeological museum is the Byzantium museum and that was my next stop of the afternoon.
By the time I’d finished looking around the Byzantium museum I had a very advanced case of museum feet and as it was already getting dark I decided to cheat and catch a cab back to the hotel.
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I could have walked the quarter mile or so to the train station to pick up the half-hourly local bus to the airport, but my experience of being so full on the way in and the cheapness of local taxi’s made up my mind to be lazy and I asked the hotel to order me a cab to the airport.
30 minutes and just €20 later, I found myself at the airport terminal in time to join the checkin queues. The airport didn’t appear to have much in the way of technology and online checkin wasn’t available so everyone was queued up at the checkin desks going through the manual process – I’d forgotten quite how painfully slow the whole process was, but eventually made it through into the tiny departures lounge with quite a bit of time to spare before my flight back to the UK.
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Eventually we set off around 45 minutes late, and as we were on a non-stop service, there wasn’t any option to make up time so by the time we finally arrived into Paris it was rapidly heading towards midnight.
I could have taken the metro out to the hotel, but it would have been pushing it to make it before the last metro of the night headed out to the hotel, so I cheated and headed for the taxi rank and took a taxi out to the hotel where I checked in and turned in for the night.
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It was a short walk from the station to the palace where, after a few quick photos, I joined the already pretty lengthy queue that was forming in preparation for the doors opening at 9am. Given the even longer queue that was forming outside the ticket office I was really quite glad I’d purchased my ticket online a few days earlier.
Just after 9 the doors open and we all streamed into the palace to start the tour. The palace is every bit the extravagant and enormous structure that the hype makes it out to be, and inside the rooms live up to the ego of the Sun King.
There was a lot to see, and I was very glad that I had taken the advice of several different sources that said you needed to get to Versailles early to be able to take it all in – and to avoid the worst of the crowds. The hall of mirrors was still pretty busy, but looking out the windows you could see the waves of coach parties making their way to the entrance which would in around an hours time make the whole place unbearable.
I looked round the whole of the main palace building and quickly stopped for a very late morning coffee before picking up the Petit Train out through the park to the Grand Trianon – the summer palaces – about 2KM from the main palace, arriving just as they opened at midday.
I had a long look round the Grand and Petit Trianon and their respective gardens as well as walking out to the Queens Hamlet – the full size toy village and farm that was built for Marie Antoinette for her to play at being a peasant.
Back to the petit train and back up to the palace to head into the gardens at the start of the afternoon musical fountains circuit. Many of the major fountains were in operation playing to musical accompaniment. I followed the suggested route that took in most of the main sights of the gardens, ending up at the Neptune fountain a few minutes before it’s single and spectacular, show of the day – so spectacular that they need to close down most of the rest of the fountains beforehand to ensure there is sufficient pressure and water.
After the show finished I had a bit more of a wander around the palace gardens before, with the last light of the day, I headed back to the station and once again was on the train in darkness as I headed back into Paris. I stayed on the train all the way through to the Notre Dame and hand a wander around the Cite area before finding a very nice restaurant on the Left Bank for dinner before finally heading back to the hotel and turning in for a well-deserved sleep.
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Unfortunately, it looked like everyone else had the same idea as the queue was massive and well past the two-hour mark so I abandoned that idea and instead headed for a slightly less creepy but equally odd subterranean attraction.
Up until the 1970s you could go on guided tours of the Paris sewer system that included boat rides through the larger tunnels. Those options aren’t available these days, but the Sewer museum is open and it’s possible to head down beneath the streets of the Quai d'Orsay to have a look around a small section of the actual sewer system (albeit mostly the storm drains and guttering system rather than the more human elements of the flows). The museum was very interesting, but with a very warm humid environment and the distinct smell that could only be described as sewage it was quite difficult to stay down for too long so in the end I did skip over some of the exhibits.
Back up on the surface in the clean air (or at least less smelly, but probably more polluted air) I went for a bit of a wander along the bank of the Seine taking in the views before crossing over towards the Grand Palais. I had intended on going inside to look at an exhibition, but the queues there were lengthy and looking across to the Petit Palais the same issue was happening there with queues (it turned out that a lot of sites had free entry for the day which would explain the very long queues.)
As it was such a nice sunny day, and as one was pulling up at the bus stop as I approached it, I decided to get on one of the hop-on-hop-off open-top bus tours of Paris to take in the sites (that were mostly of lengthy queues outside all the major museums) of the city and did a full lap of the tour.
The tours start and end at the Eiffel Tower and back there at the end of a full circuit I realised that I didn’t have enough time to visit anything else, so instead I stayed on the bus round to the Arc de Triomph and then headed down into the metro to get the train back to Gare du Nord to pick up my luggage and then check-in for my train back to London.
Earlier in the day the station had been evacuated as someone had tried to take an unexploded WWI shell through. The service had been playing catch-up all day and the queues for security were pretty lengthy. By the time I finally got through they were calling my train so I headed straight down onto the platform and found my seat.
The return journey was significantly smoother than the outbound and we even arrived back into London a few minutes ahead of schedule, but as it was late and there had been quite a bit of disruption over the previous few weeks to Eurostar services I’d decided not to risk a very late night trip back across London and had booked into the Premier Inn on the Euston Road, and so less than 20 minutes after leaving the train I was turning in for the night ready to complete the last 8 miles of my journey home the following morning after a good nights sleep.
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A smooth journey across London and onto Kings Cross where I managed to get to the train and my luggage stowed before the vast numbers of my fellow passengers arrived. I knew Friday afternoon trains could be busy, but I wasn’t expecting every single seat in the whole train to be reserved and for all of those to be taken.
I was quite glad work had reserved me a seat, even if my window seat was almost completely made up of support pillar rather than actual glass.
The journey up to Doncaster was uneventful and it was just a short walk from the station round to the hotel where I checked in a did another couple of hours of work before heading down to the hotel restaurant for dinner.
I’d stayed at the same hotel earlier in the year for work, so knew in advance I wanted one of their Yorkshire burgers – burger, bacon and Wensleydale cheese sandwiched between two Yorkshire puddings. When I’d stayed here before I was defeated by it, this time I’d only had a very light lunch and by the time I made it down to dinner I was hungry enough to devour the entire thing. I still had a bit of space left for a small desert so I asked for the Cheese plate, assuming it would be a couple of pieces of cheese – it turned out to be most of a cows output for one year, so by the time I finished dinner I was stuffed and had to gently waddle back to my room to watch a bit of telly before turning in for the night.
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Unfortunately, in early November, even on a nice sunny day, there isn’t much to do in Cleethorpes so after a bit of a look around town I headed back to the station and picked up the train back inland a little and up to the ruins of an Augustinian monastery at Thornton.
It was a short walk from the railway station to the abbey and it’s very impressive gatehouse – about the only part of the site to survive the destructive powers of Henry VIII. I had a good look around the site, including both the gate house and the limited remains of the abbey church and cloister.
By the time I’d looked around the whole site, and dodged a couple of very short but quite punchy showers, it had taken around 90 minutes, which was good as the trains on this little branch line are only every two hours. I headed back to the station to pick up the train, catching it on towards the end of the line at Barton-on-Humber before it turned around and came back through Thornton and back towards Cleethorpes.
I hopped off the train at Grimsby to have a bit of a wander round, but it was already starting to get quite dark so I popped into a café to have a quick drink and just to double check on the train times with the intention of catching the bus back to Cleethorpes to pick up the train back to Doncaster.
However, a quick check on the National Rail website revealed that the evening service was gently falling to pieces with lots of delayed and cancelled trains, so instead, after my coffee, I headed back to Grimsby station and picked up the first train heading back towards Doncaster to make sure I could get back.
Back in Doncaster around a hour later I had a quick wander through town to find somewhere to eat and after dinner made my way back through the already quite drunk crowds to the hotel for a drink in the bar before turning in for the night.
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On the way to the station it was spitting slightly, and by the time I made it onto the platform the skies had opened and it was pelting it down. I was hopeful that by the time I got to Conisborough the worst of the rain would have passed, and to some extent it had, it was just a steady freezing drizzle accompanied by an icy wind then accompanied me on the walk up the hill to the castle.
The Castle itself was very impressive and I had a long look around the visitors centre and inside the keep where it was warm and dry. I spent much less time looking around the keep as being on the top of the hill made the area even colder in the wind.
After looking round the castle I headed back down to the station to catch the train back into Doncaster, and another soaking as I walked back from the station. I’d originally intended on going straight to the town museum to have a look around, but I was so wet and cold I headed back first to the hotel to dry off and warm up for a little while.
By early afternoon the weather had mostly cleared so I headed out the short distance up to the city’s museum and art gallery to have a look around them and spent quite some time there.
Leaving the museum I had planned to visit the Minster, an impressive site visible from the train as you head North out of the station, but the weather once again intervened as another hefty shower passed through and in the end I decided just to head back to the hotel for a couple of hours of warmth before heading out to dinner.
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After a quick shower I checked out of the hotel and picked up the hoppa bus back to the airport and after bag dropping and going through to security found some breakfast in the almost deserted departures side of terminal 5.
A smooth and fuss free flight, made more comfortable by the short notice swapping of the plane to a bigger one meaning there was lots more space for everyone. We landed in Hamburg on time and after an equally smooth journey through the airport, with my bag and me reaching the same point of the baggage belt at the same time, I was onto a train into the city centre.
By the time the train arrived into Hamburg Hauptbahnhof it was just before 11 and I was starting to feel quite hungry, so with 30 minutes to spare before my train onto Kiel I popped to a wurst stall and had a very nice bratwurst before wandering down to the platform where my train was waiting for me.
Another smooth leg of the journey and less than 90 minutes after leaving Hamburg I was stepping out of the station in Kiel and into the neighbouring InterCity hotel to checkin. After dropping my bags in my room I headed back out for a wander around town.
I had a long wander around the area near the Hauptbahnhof called the Hörn, which marks the very end of the Kieler Förde before heading further into town to have a wander around the old town area, stopping off at Sankt Nikolai Kirche to have a look around.
Whilst it was quite pleasant walking around the city with the sun shining, as soon as it set the temperature took a bit of a nosedive and with it become quite chilly I headed back to the hotel to warm up a little before heading out a little later to grab a bite to eat and then an early night to make up for the very early start.
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The train ride was through some very beautiful countryside and across the Kiel canal on the spectacular Rendsburg High Bridge then back round on itself in a 360-degree loop to drop from the very high bridge back down to canal level for the station. The journey continued through the countryside, crisp white with frost (where it wasn’t disappearing into banks of fog) before finally arriving on the North Sea coast at Husum.
I had a wander through the town and down to the harbour. Following major erosion and flooding around 400 years ago Husum suddenly found itself as a major port and a key jumping off point for access to the North Friesland Islands, which on a clear day should be visible from the coast. Today wasn’t what could be described as a clear day as the fog restricted visibility to less than 100m.
I had a long wander around town and eventually found myself at the Schiffahrtsmuseum Nordfriesland so I had a look around that. By the time I came out of that museum I’d just missed the hourly train back to Kiel so I headed back towards the station and stopped off at the NordseeMuseum museum for a look around before heading back to the station in time to make the train back to Kiel.
Annoyingly just as the train was preparing to leave the sun started to burn through the fog and pretty soon into the journey back all the fog had lifted.
Back in Kiel I caught the bus up to the Aquarium about 2KM north of the train station to have a look around that, and as there was still just about time I walked down to the Zoological museum and was able to get a ticket a couple of minutes before they stopped selling them for the day.
After looking round the museum I wandered back into town and back over to the hotel to freshen up, before heading back out a little later to take some photos of Kiel at night and to grab a light dinner.
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First stop of the morning was the former Fish Market and now home to the towns maritime museum for a look round their exhibition on the history of Kiel and the sea including quite a bit on the Kiel ship canal – the busiest in the world, and several good models of the harbour over time.
I had a wander up through the old town, stopping off at the Schloßplatz which is mostly made up of modern buildings (being a major U-Boat harbour Kiel got pretty well flattened during the war), and then on down to the Warleberger Hof to have a look round the Stadtmuseum.
By now I’d pretty much seen everything that I wanted to see in Kiel and decided that rather than hang around in the city I’d take an earlier train back to Hamburg and spend a couple of hours there before heading on out to the airport.
I was glad I made that decision as a little way out from Hamburg the train came to a grinding halt and a series of announcements in German, but pretty much understandable in English, first informed us of a broken-down train ahead of us that they were trying to fix and then, after a fairly long wait, the news that we were being diverted away from Hamburg Hauptbahnhof and across instead to Hamburg-Altona on the opposite side of the city. To get there we had to join the back of a long queue of trains shuttling in and out of the terminus so that took quite a bit of time to.
By the time I’d finally got to Altona I had the choice of putting my bag into a luggage locker and having about 40 minutes to look around the immediate area, of which there isn’t much to see, or just calling it a day, not risking any further disruption, and heading straight out to the airport given that the airport S-Bahn train stops at Altona.
I decided not to risk it and 40 minutes later, three hours before my flight was due to depart, I found myself arriving into the airport station to checkin and spend longer than I had planned enjoying the delights of Hamburg airport.
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Once I’d powered down the laptop I headed out of the hotel for a wander around town and down to the Ocean Village harbour to have some dinner.
After a very pleasant meal I wandered back through the city centre to the hotel before turning in for an early night.
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The cable car ascended to the top station and as it did it the scenery slowly disappeared into a fog. I was the only person wandering around the top that early so I could watch the Macaques having their breakfast (and fights) before having a bit of a wander around the top station and a quick pause for a coffee.
By the time I’d finished my coffee the worst of the fog had cleared and most things were pretty visible so I headed off for a day exploring the rock. First stop was up to O’Hara’s battery at the very highest point of the rock and overlooking Europa Point – the end of Gibraltar. From there I walked down to the spectacular St Michaels Caves and had a wander around them.
From the caves I continues down the hill past the Apes Den before making it to the Great Siege Tunnels and having a look around them before descending a bit further to the Moorish Castle.
When I’d visited in 2005 this had been closed for renovation so I hadn’t been able to look round. Today it was open so I could explore the Tower of Homage and take in its views up the rock and across into Spain.
I set off on the final walk down from the tower into the town and a well-deserved rest for an ice cream and a drink near Casemates square before walking back to the hotel to rest for a little while.
Having sat down for a few minutes I realised that stopping moving had been a bad idea as I could fee muscles in my legs I didn’t know existed starting to ache, so rather than heading out for dinner I decided to cheat and headed up to the very nice restaurant on the top floor of the hotel which I presumed offered excellent views over Gibraltar, but as it was dark and fog had come down again it was difficult to tell.
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I headed out for a quick breakfast before wandering over to the Cathedral to have a look around and then next door to the very interesting Gibraltar museum and spent quite some time looking round there, which also helped to miss some of the worst of the showers.
I wandered down into the centre of town and over to the Harbour on the off chance that one of the dolphin tours might be running, but with the weather making even the water in the harbour a little choppy it was clear they wouldn’t be running, and the locked-up offices only confirmed that.
I wandered back to Casemates square and had a spot of lunch before catching the bus down to Europa Point, the end of Gibraltar, home to its lighthouse and even today with heavy clouds views across the straights of Gibraltar to Africa. The latter being visible for only some of the time before it disappeared into the cloud of the next hefty downpour.
Retreating to the bus stop I caught the bus back into town and picked up another bus round to the quieter East Coast of The Rock that sits on a thin strip of land where the Rock meets the sea.
I spent a little time wandering round before the rain picked up again and I retreated back to the bus and headed back into town and then onto the hotel.
The weather really started to deteriorate and I spent the evening in the hotel deciding once again to dine in the rooftop restaurant – which had the added attraction of gales howling round it’s windows this evening, before turning in for an early night.
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Whilst this was all very spectacular it was slightly concerning as it meant all the morning flights into Gibraltar had been diverted to, the much safer to land at, Malaga airport and this could have meant a hefty delay to my flight later that afternoon.
Thankfully around 11am the skies started to clear and just before checkout time arrived the rain had stopped so I could check out of the hotel and go or a little wander around town.
I headed over to the Botanical Gardens and Alameda Wildlife Park and spent a couple of hours wandering around there before the skies made it clear they were preparing for another downpour.
I made it back to the hotel with a couple of minutes to spare before the skies opened again, thankfully this time not accompanied by the strong winds so the chance of my flight running were looking slightly better than 50/50
After picking up my bags I got the hotel to call me a taxi and headed back over to the airport. Shortly after arriving the flight before mine touched down, nearly an hour late, but it was here rather than in Malaga so it was with some confidence that BA opened the checkin for my flight.
The weather remained unpleasant with pouring rain, but without the strong winds it was possible to get planes in and the plane to form my flight eventually arrived around 55 minutes late, having held back in London because of the weather.
Eventually we were called forward to board the plane, which was made decidedly unpleasant as it was a walk across the tarmac and up open steps in the bucketing rain, but eventually everyone was on and with a pretty bumpy first thousand hundred feet we took off into the low clouds and back towards Britain.
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The Southern drivers were on strike and not a single train was running. Whilst I had plenty of options for getting to the airport they all involved a significant bus journey through the end of the school home time and rush hour.
My boss had very kindly let me finish a bit early, so I was already at the bus stop a little after 15:30 but still had to let three buses go past before I could get on one. I got to Croydon with time to spare before the airport bus, which then didn’t show because the traffic was so bad. It had been turned around a couple of stops earlier to get it back on time.
Eventually the next bus turned up half an hour later and everyone crowded on – though clearly only three of us with luggage were actually going to the airport – everyone else was using it as a way of bypassing the lack of trains
The bus crawled through the traffic of South and West London eventually making it to the airport just after 19:00. After a quick pit stop (I had been sat on a bus for nearly two hours), I picked up the final bus of the evening to go the couple of stops up to my hotel for the evening.
I’d booked the trip back in April, and at the time the hotel I was staying in wasn’t open (it didn’t open until late June). Consequently, the booking was a bit hidden in their computer system and it did take some time for it to be tracked down so I could be checked in.
I had a quick dinner in the hotel restaurant and then turned in for an early night.
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