Metz; Saturday, 03 May, 2025

I had a decent nights sleep, though the sound of the church bells ringing the hours did mean that midnight was clearly identifiable, thankfully one through seven were not noticeable. After a quick breakfast in the hotel I headed out and down to the small island in the Moselle that houses the Theatre and Opera to explore the small Jardin Fabert that occupies the very eastern end of the island. There isn’t much to see here, other then the island petering out and, whilst I was there, a heron preening and cleaning itself, completely oblivious to the tourists and locals around photographing it.

From the garden I walked over a bridge back onto the north bank of the Moselle and through a modernish housing complex, passing by the Eglise Saint Livier, or more the ruins of the church. Part of the building was destroyed when the new residential development was built in the 1970s, leaving the now ivy covered ruins that stand to today. A short walk further on, under the housing blocks, and you are onto the Pont Saint-George from which there are very picturesque views back up the river towards the island, cathedral and beyond.

On the south bank of the Moselle a riverside walkway continues east which quickly leads you onto the remaining remnants of the old city fortification. The area here is thick with towers and walls, defending the confluence of the Moselle and Seille rivers. Part way along the walk up the Seille River there is a crossing point which lets you head up away from the river and into the former fort of Bellecroix.

The fort was originally built in the 18th century to help defend the city, but soon became surplus to requirements as further fortifications were built further out from the city. The fort was retained and turned into barracks, but following the second world war the decision was taken to demolish the buildings and much of the structure of the fort leaving just a gatehouse and some of the old bastions. Today the area has been turned into a park and in the past a viewpoint over the city, but with rapid tree and foliage growth in the last few years its no longer possible to see out from the fortification.

From the Bellecroix I headed back down to the river to continue my walk alongside the fortifications, taking in many more of the towers and walls of the old city ramparts before they end at the Porte des Allemands, or the German Gate. This is a fortified gatehouse and bridge built between the 13th and 15th centuries to protect the city and comprises of a bridge crossing the river to a gatehouse, an internal area and then a second gatehouse protecting the city. It’s a pretty impressive structure, especially as it’s open most afternoons to explore, including climbing up one of the towers onto the terrace for views over the river and down into town.

From the gate I walked back across town intending on visiting the Temple Neuf, a large church built during the German ownership of Mainz in a very Teutonic style a bit reminiscent of Aachen Cathedral. The church is only open for a couple of hours on a Saturday and Wednesday afternoon, and I’d timed it to be over there when it was open, so I was a little surprised to find that it was closed to visitors as an organ recital and masterclass were taking place, so instead I had a wander around the grounds of the church, which forms the far western end of the Moselle island, before heading over the bridge and going for a bit more of a wander through the old town.

By now it was gone 5pm and the weather app on my phone had been stating that there were thunderstorms expected about 6pm. Earlier in the day I was a little sceptical of it’s claim, but by 5 it was clear the weather was rapidly changing with the humidity spiking, a breeze picking up and some pretty menacing black clouds starting to roll in.

I headed back in the direction of the hotel, stopping off at a supermarket to get in some supplies for dinner as I though there was a large chance I wouldn’t be getting out of the hotel again this evening – which turned out to be a very good idea. Just a couple of minutes after I made it back to the hotel the skies opened and a heavy downpour passed through. Just as that was easing off there was a flash of lightning and rumble of thunder, followed by many more flashes and bangs in quick succession and then the heavy rain, rather than shower, started and continued for some time.

In the end I spent the rest of the evening in my room, watching a quite spectacular display of lightning and torrential rain whilst enjoying a hotel picnic dinner courtesy of Carrefour!